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Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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  1. Watch Case Issues, Opening, Movement/Stem Removal, Case Parts, straps and bracelets

    Discussing issues regarding the watch case including Opening, Closing, Movement Removal, Stem Removal, Pushers, Pendant Tubes etc...
    You can also discuss subjects relating to watch straps and bracelets here.

    2.7k
    posts

  2. New to watch repair ** Safe Zone For Learner Watch Repairers **

    Discussing subjects relating to learner watch repairers.
    More experienced repairers - please guide learners with patience and respect 🙏

    5.2k
    posts

  3. Regulation, Watch Performance and Timing Machine (Timegrapher) Readings/Results

    Discuss general regulation techniques, watch performance issues and your timing machine readings (traces).
    Balance Wheel Adjustment, Hairspring Adjustment, Regulating Watches, Setting Watches in Beat, Lift Angle

    2.3k
    posts

  4. Service, Repair & Adjustment Techniques (Not Timing or Regulation)

    Discussing subjects relating to servicing, making adjustments and repairs to watch parts and movements and fitting balance staffs. This section is not for timing or regulation discussion. To discuss Regulation or Timing please go here.

    4k
    posts

  5. Cleaning / De-Greasing Techniques - including cleaning products

    Discussing cleaning and de-greasing of watch movements including products used

    938
    posts

  6. Fault Finding / Fault Diagnosis

    Discuss fault finding. Post here for advise diagnosing any watch movement issues.

    1.9k
    posts

  7. Restoration Techniques - Polishing, Refinishing, Bluing, Rust, etc..

    Dealing with all subjects relating to watch restoration techniques such as Rust Removal, Bluing, Refinishing etc...

    1.9k
    posts

  8. Lubrication Techniques, Oils, Greases, Epilame Treatments

    Discussing lubrication techniques, oils and greases to use and Epilame treatment.

    1.3k
    posts

  9. Quartz and Tuning Fork Battery Operated Watches

    Discussing quartz and tuning fork watch movements

    833
    posts

  10. Shock Settings - Incablock, Diashock - Fitting/Adjusting Jewels, etc..

    Discussing shock settings such as Incabloc and Diashock etc..
    Fitting and the adjustment of Jeweled Bearings, Pallet Stones, Impulse Jewels

    755
    posts

  11. Identify This Movement or Watch

    Need help identifying a watch movement? Please use this section.

    1.7k
    posts

  12. Watch Parts, Sourcing Parts, Movements, Materials and Lubrication Products

    Discussing watch parts, the sourcing of watch parts and movements, and products required to repair and service watch movements

    2.8k
    posts

  13. Documentation, Books & Service Sheets

    Discussing watch repair documentation, books, parts lists and service sheets

    331
    posts

8963 topics in this forum

  1. Landeron 48

    By harrison72,   
    • 21 replies
    • 12.8k views

  2. ETA 2892-A2 big date pdf

    By Danh,
    • 6 replies
    • 12.8k views

  3. SHINOLA CHRONOGRAPH HOW TO RESET THE SECOND HAND TO ZERO

    By ahmedalwan,
    • 5 replies
    • 12.8k views

  4. Setting Hands On 7750

    By sstakoff,
    • 19 replies
    • 12.7k views

  5. Stem and crown removal victorinox

    By rggmiranda,   
    • 6 replies
    • 12.7k views

  6. Timex 905 movement crown

    By MilTimeCan,   
    • 16 replies
    • 12.7k views

  7. Help a begginer with a 2836-2 problem

    By DoubleATB,
    • 12 replies
    • 12.7k views

  8. What Glue Or Cement Is Recommended For Old Glass Pocket Watch Crystals

    By JeffBroughton,
    • 8 replies
    • 12.7k views

  9. Help identifying vintage Rolex movement(1910~1920)

    By east3rn,   
    • 11 replies
    • 12.7k views

  10. Replace a complete balance wheel and bridge for ETA 2804-2

    By hokavan,   
    • 8 replies
    • 12.7k views

  11. Poise issue? Seiko 7625 with Renata 1594 balance 1 2 3

    By steve1811uk,
    • 67 replies
    • 12.6k views

  12. HELP!!! Screwed up my 2892-A2 1 2 3

    By adiorio110,
    • 53 replies
    • 12.6k views

  13. Tightening a cannon pinion on wrist and offset cannons also

    By pocwatjim,   
    • 10 replies
    • 12.5k views

  14. Omega 561 Lubrication Chart Required. 1 2

    By Geo,
    • 30 replies
    • 12.5k views

  15. case screws stripped

    By Lenny,
    • 20 replies
    • 12.5k views

  16. Beat error shows as high, on good working watches.

    By Len33,
    • 24 replies
    • 12.5k views

  17. How do I adjust this hairspring. 1 2

    By ftwizard,
    • 32 replies
    • 12.4k views

  18. Bent hairspring 1 2

    By Andraska,
    • 26 replies
    • 12.4k views

  19. Bent hand - advice on straightening

    By sstakoff,
    • 5 replies
    • 12.4k views

  20. Timex M25 what to start first??? 1 2

    By Ianh,
    • 35 replies
    • 12.4k views

  21. Seiko 7T32 Movement

    By bobm12,
    • 7 replies
    • 12.4k views

  22. Seiko skx007 regulating question 1 2

    By snegron,
    • 31 replies
    • 12.4k views

  23. ETA 2892-A2 Automatic Works - what else can I do? 1 2

    By Cmmb8519,   
    • 31 replies
    • 12.4k views

  24. Balance Wheel Wobble!

    By Len33,   
    • 3 replies
    • 12.3k views

  25. Help! Movement ident for Tissot PR50

    By rbfesquire,   
    • 10 replies
    • 12.3k views


  • Topics

  • Posts

    • praezis
      Greetings from India.

      By praezis · Posted

      Welcome! To which part of India will my greetings go? Frank
    • mikepilk
      Hairsrping alignment

      By mikepilk · Posted

      I agree with @Waggy, no need to adjust. That looks very good to me. The factory specs for 7S26 are something like -35 to +45s/day, but they are usually better. The amplitude is good. When wearing, the most important positions are dial up, crown down and crown left. You need to regulate so that these positions average out to about zero. Crown down is showing +14, so you may have to set dial up to slightly minus s/day. The absolute values of +/-s/day don't really matter, as long as they aren't too far out. The only way to get good accuracy is to wear it for a couple of days, recording the errors, and gradually tweaking.
    • VWatchie
      Looking for advice on removing the glass and bezel

      By VWatchie · Posted

      @Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!
    • mikepilk
      DIY centre seconds support base

      By mikepilk · Posted

      Or, if you have a staking set or jewelling too, just use one of the stumps. You can choose a fine tip to fit inside a jewel if necessary.
    • Knebo
      Rolex 3130/3135 Automatic winding issue

      By Knebo · Posted

      Good morning,   To be honest, I'm not sure I trust my own logic anymore 😅. But here's a picture of my own (failed!) attempt to install a new rotor axle. I punched way to hard and even split the metal of the rotor. My thinking was that, in my case, the axle sits "deeper" in the rotor and hence the rotor would be closer to the movement plates. Vice versa, I was thinking that a very light punch could cause the rotor to sit rather high. But not sure that makes sense because in both cases, the flat part of the axle and the rotor align equally.     Sorry, but is he saying that the outside of the caseback has been polished to such an extent that the inside of the caseback has deformed/sunk??? That sounds crazy to me because those casebacks are thick! Can you see any signs of that on the inside of the caseback? Have you tried screwing in the caseback a litte bit more or less so that the supposedly "sunk" part of the caseback would move from 9 o'clock to e.g. 6/7 or 11/12 o'clock?  If the caseback is truly deformed, maybe it could be punched/pressed back into shape (e.g. with glass/caseback closing press).      I agree with your choice. But yea, Rolex makes it VERY hard for independent watchmakers to do a perfect job because we can't get (original) parts easily.      Your pictures aren't too bad. But still impossible to see if the rotor isn't perfectly flat. You'd have to look at it with your loupe, from the side (like the pictures), and turn the rotor to see if the gaps (with the automatic bridge plates) increase/decrease.     Finally... how is the up/down play of the rotor? To test, take a toothpick/pegwood and press on the small triangular side of the rotor next to the axle (NOT the big side where the weight is. But the opposite side.). Does that lift up the weight-side of the rotor? There can be some play, but it should really be minimal. If there's too much play, a new spring clip is the first thing to do. After that, one could play around with the jewels. This is too much:
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