Jump to content

CaptCalvin

Member
  • Content Count

    133
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CaptCalvin

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This is how they fit: loosely over either end. Bottom ring can't fit this way in use as the diameter on the barrels are too wide. Having it over the plunger end would be counter productive as well as the plunger doesn't come out far enough through the top of the ring. Also there are two nice cutouts on the included platter for these to fit in. From what I can tell with my relatively limited watchmaking experience this kit functions perfectly fine without them. But there has to be a reason for them to nicely machine out and anodize 2 pieces of aluminum as well as their respective cutouts on the display platter. Very intriguing.
  2. No instructions. I find everything to be pretty self explanatory with the exception of the two big rings. Got it on a trip to Guangzhou. Pretty well made but needs cleaning before use. Copious amounts of oil in the barrels.
  3. Acetone probably would've done the job painlessly
  4. Got myself a mainspring winder set and it came with two of these doodads. Anyone got any idea what they might be used for?
  5. Forgot to mention that in my tour of the Patek facility I found that they use isopropyl alcohol as a final rinse as well.
  6. I put the balance through the cleaning process mounted on the main plate along with the rest of the parts. When I was touring the Patek repair center in New York in November this is what they did as well. Leads me to think it must not be as dangerous as some people say?
  7. Poor lubrication can stop a watch. Would need dismantling and inspecting to say if anything needs more work other than lubrication. Perfectly fine running watches can produce these kinds of traces at very low amplitudes. Beat error and amplitude reading mean nothing with a trace like that.
  8. Definitely hold the crown and don't hold the hour hand if you're going to try to take this shortcut. Depending on how tight the hands are you are liable to damage the tiny and delicate pinion leaves on the minute wheel that drive the hour wheel.
  9. If you tried just pushing on the hands to get them to sync better chances are when you push the minute hand the hour hand will just move accordingly. You'd just in essence be setting the time, but doing so through the hands like you would on many old clocks as opposed to setting through the crown. Hands would need to come off and refitted.
  10. I have done something like this before. I ended up using pliers to clamp the opening of the tube shut, creating a nice flat end for me to grab and twist, with said pliers.
  11. I appreciate the resources saswatch88 but I wonder if anyone else has anymore. I have seen these before and would like to know if there's anything more thorough. clockboy I have used pure intuition with many movements. It's easy when you can see how everything works or simple enough to mentally visualize. But with mechanisms such as in the case a chronograph featuring column wheel, vertical clutch, AND flyback complication it is really difficult to figure out how it all works and intuit where to apply the lubrication, especially when almost all the relevant parts are completely obscured and make observing their operation impossible.
  12. I can't for the life of me find servicing documentation or guides for this movement anywhere. Going with pure intuition I'm afraid is inadequate either as all the chronograph parts are completely obscured and I can't observe their operation. I know how everything goes back together but trying to figure out how all the parts interact while in operation aches my brain. The thing is couple orders magnitude more intricate and complex than a 7750. Can anyone help me out with all the lubrication points particularly with the chronograph parts and the clutches? Thanks a bunch.
  13. A perfectly poised balance wheel is only the most basic step to start positional adjustment. If all you need is a poised balance wheel then stating the number of positions adjusted is irrelevant. Most of the work is done at the hairspring. Introducing poise errors to the balance wheel to counteract errors caused by the hairspring is not an ideal solution because these manipulations would have variable effects at different amplitudes. Such method should only be done to take out small errors after the balance is perfectly poised to begin with and hairspring adjusted to as close as you can.
  14. Entire books can be written on the topic. But quick and dirty of it is that the screws closest to the cuts in the rim would be used to adjust for temperature.
  15. Amscope distributes decent ones very affordably. Nonetheless he did it with a 10x loupe, so microscope not an absolute necessity, just makes things easier. An escape pivot is the fastest moving pivot in the train. Even the 3rd wheel in my experience usage of thicker oil like 9104 or even a little too much 9010 can cause a 50 degree decrease in amplitude. Depending on the type or amount of contamination it's not inconceivable that dirty jewels can cause a drop of 100 degrees. These movements may have beginner cost, but I would not consider them beginner movements to make run decently.
×
×
  • Create New...