Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CaptCalvin

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hmmm it is true that I remember these taking more force to pop open. For the record I dont recommend messing with these barrels. But if NH35 is all you have and you want to start tinkering it's not the worst idea to start on these being as inexpensive as they are. I myself started on NH35s. I find them relatively sensitive to proper lubrication as well so it really conditioned me to be precise with oil application.
  2. I dont think it's too big a deal. I doubt there's any magic sealed inside. Seiko probably wants us to treat these as consumables to expedite the servicing process and maybe make a few more bucks from new barrel orders. We can open these if we really want to. Just lubricate these as any other barrel. There are no unicorn guts inside. I've opened a few and they come apart and go back together just as easily as any other.
  3. Yes. If not from it magnetizing the hairspring then probably from the numerous drops the watch will endure. Also I can imagine having your wrist constantly sticking to metal things will start to get old pretty fast like when typing on a laptop.
  4. The service manual specifies replacing the entire barrel assembly at each service. I dont think Seiko intended for these to be oiled outside of the factory. I always thought these are solid steel on Seikos but I could be wrong. I don't think it's a big deal if there is a bit of cross contamination here. There WILL be cross contamination no matter how careful you are in this case.
  5. I always find rotating my wrists whilst gripping small parts with tweezers to flip such parts around to be harrowing experiences. I've gotten into the habit of just picking them up and dropping them a short distance from the mat until the side I want faces up haha.
  6. All my examples are from Bulova(Accuswiss), Tissot, Victorinox, and Mido.
  7. More images of the pallets. Also the escape wheel is covered in droplets of oil. Nobody else have ever had these observations on their ETA's? I still consider myself new to watchmaking but this seems to go against all the examples of good watchmaking I'd seen. All the ETA's I've ever seen in the 2 years I've been in this hobby, all brand new, looked like this...
  8. Why is that every escapement on brand new ETA movements that I see all look like this? Doesn't look right does it? Doesn't read bad at all on the timing machine though: clean lines, 310 amplitude and everything. So what's up with this? Is this just how 9415 looks like after some run-in?
  9. I'm pretty sure it's a spring for a wig-wag style reversing wheel. Is this a unidirectional automatic winding movement? These movements can come with a variety of automatic mechanisms.
  10. I recently acquired an old cleaning machine but it didn't come with any baskets. Where might be a good source to get some baskets for such machines? I find it so hard to find them in a satisfactory configuration. I want a set with around 6 or more compartments. Also I would really rather not use ones that create "compartments" by way of large dimples in a sheet of mesh.
  11. I'm not expert in authenticating watches based on externals but the case doesn't scream fake to me. If an owner is willing to mess with the insides of the watch (movement missing a screw by the way) I wouldn't imagine them putting any effort in keeping the outside looking especially tidy either. As for crown tube treading i wouldn't know on breitling super avengers but I have seen tubes with the treads on the inside on IWC's for example. Even if the rest of the watch is fake I'm quite certain that the movement is a chronometer grade 7750, which is no throwaway item.
  12. I don't know about the rest of the watch but I do know my 7750's. Guys it's a genuine ETA 7750. I've worked with enough fake and real 7750s to know. First thing is that it has an etachron regulator. The fake mainplates cannot accept these. Other small details include the chronograph brake and the cam. The fake cams have two holes for guide pins/rivets holes drilled all the way to the top and the brakes a casted part. The genuine cams do not have such holes on the top and the brakes a stamped part. The movement is also has a glucydur balance and serialized on the automatic device bridge which leads me to believe it's a chronometer grade movement and gives good credence that this is a genuine watch. Back on topic: no you cannot wind a 7750 without a crown without some major disassembly to access the ratchet screw for winding. You either have loads of cash to throw around or are unaware of the value of this watch fiddling with it the way you did. It's expensive by most counts. Please, take it to a watchmaker.
  • Create New...