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About CaptCalvin

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  1. Got a test I think would be interesting to try. Fully wind it and put it on the time grapher. Then with a piece of peg wood or something soft grip the teeth on the barrel and push it in the direction in which it unwinds with gradually increasing force. How would the rate change/line look as you're doing this?
  2. Bridle shape only really come into play at the last few winds when there isn't a whole bunch of coils pushing the bridle flat up against the barrel wall.
  3. It wont help much in your case seeing as how it's slipping so early.
  4. Which is why many watchmakers prefer to install keyless works first thing. Last thing to come out first thing to go back in.
  5. Whichever series of events would have the least risk of damage/least akward is the one you want to go with. Ideally you'll want to relax the mainspring and get rid of the balance earliest you can. But in general such operation isnt possible as the first step for example on most automatic watches, where the automatic device prevents unwinding and hangs over the balance that necessitate awkward manipulations to remove balance. Realistically I wouldn't think there is much more risk in removing the balance without first winding down the watch. I do it occasionally to get better access to escapment for lubrication and other purposes like adjustment/observation/inspection. But if you want to be sure you take absolutely any precaution you can to minimize risk then by all means take off the power first.
  6. Get everything spotless amd try again. If problem still persists I would imagine the problem be caused be distance between jewels too great and/or jewels not meeting parallel.
  7. I'm not sure that's the intended purpose for barrel notches. I rather think it's to gain more positive control for the slipping rather than relying on friction and specific lubrication quantities/qualities, like demonstrated in this diagram: Putting some watches next to my ear as I wind it I can hear this. For example on my 7750 it is always exactly 8 clicks of the ratchet wheel between each time the sound of the end of bridle slipping into the next notch is heard. You can't expect this kind of consistency relying solely on friction with a smooth barrel wall.
  8. Did you also epilame the chaton/balance staff hole jewel?
  9. I have used a piece of well-cleaned piece of hair on one occasion. Worked pretty good.
  10. How long is the tube? The seconds pinion on this movement is spring loaded. If tube too short the pinion would just retreat into the movement without the tube actually engaging.
  11. I'd imagine manufacturers print that on there so their behinds are covered in case of reports of main spring related eye injuries.
  12. Definitely a dud if such low amplitude brand new at full wind. Curious to know what kind of rate it keeps in each position.
  13. It's not like it's hurting the rest of us. It's not like they're selling snake oil either. People who buy this stuff know what they're paying for. As long as there's not deception involved I don't see the problem here.
  14. If having no seconds hand is a satisfactory compromise then this can be done with a simple module on the motion side. But I suspect this would not be a satisfactory compromise for you as the novel effect would be dampened quite a bit without a seconds hand ticking backwards. In which case yeah all the stuff that nicksilver says for a mechanical movement or what AndyHull mentioned for quartz.
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