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CaptCalvin

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About CaptCalvin

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  1. Acetone will melt the shellac in a flash. Also evaporates in a flash and fumes are bad and give a nasty migraine. Careful with that stuff.
  2. Looks right. Though the plastic I would imagine to be counter productive. You want the punch to be directly in contact with the metal. Plastic will just absorb the impacts until it's smooshed all the way through.
  3. Omega wants nothing more than a wedge when teeth slide along impulse face, but Rolex wants you to really glob it on there. AWCI deems oil on top and in the gaps between escape teeth unacceptable. The GS I observed under a microscope have whole heaps of it all over the escape wheel. My conclusion is, do whatever you want as long as relevant parts are clean and properly treated with epilame and oils are kept away from the body of the pallet fork.
  4. Starting with a flat punch would be smart actually. Chances are that's all you need. And if it doesn't work then you can try the pointed punches. Flat punches are more forgiving so not a lot of harm done as opposed to trying the pointed punches first thing and whacking it a bit too hard.
  5. Reason why these are easier to fix is because they can simply be set into a hole in the staking contraption and not fall through. 1) Find the smallest hole on the platform that the tube will fit in. 2) Loosen knob behind contraption. 3) Insert centering punch (sharpest pointed). 4) Rotate platform and drive centering punch into selected hole. 5) Tighten knob. This ensures whatever punch you're going to use is aligned with hole. 6) Insert tube into hole and fit hand on the tube. 7) You're going to have to judge for yourself which punches to use here. Start with the sharper punches and work your way towards blunter punches. The idea here is you want to expand the tube so that it grips the hand, and you'll also want the top of the tube to curl outwards and over. Sharper punches are more efficient at the expanding, and blunter punches will do the curling. Don't get aggressive with the sharp punches and go too deep and split the tube. But really it would be nice if a someone with actual experience chimes in. I haven't yet touched a staking set (poor college kid). This is just a procedure I've thought up in my head with knowledge accumulated through books and internet. Try it if it makes sense to you haha.
  6. Does the tube have a lip around it to support the hand as in the first picture or just a straight tube with the top turned down to fit into the hand? The straight tube type would be a little more challenging. Do you know how to use a staking set? I dont have a staking set on hand at the moment but I would start with the sharper punches and progressively move through blunter and blunter punches until the rivet is nicely rounded and peened over.
  7. In a lot of cases re-staking is possible. If you don't have a staking set a crude method with thumbtack I've tried before worked for me: Fit the tube back into the hole and have it stand upright, and then tap the tip of the thumbtack into the hole. Make sure to start with light taps and check progress under magnification as to ensure you don't split the tube. You just want a bit of expansion of the tube where it fits into the hand. Also make sure to do it on a hard surface so it doesn't absorb any of the impact and have the tube driven into it. Also consider filing the tip of the thumbtack to put some facets to it. This will make the rivet irregular and stands to have less of a chance of slippage at reset than a perfectly round rivet. Although the one time I tried the thumbtack I didn't bother with this and the subject watch hasn't given me any problems yet.
  8. They're staked together. You can repair it by staking it again if all relevant pieces are in good shape
  9. ETA case screws work on clone movements.
  10. Few things I noticed here: It's missing the dial washer. Your instruction about the day and date synchronization is erroneous. With the day driving wheel finger pointed at the mark on the plate, the finger for the date driving wheel needs to point at the top of the pivot for the day and date intermediate driving wheel, not the canon pinion. The "lock" locks the chronograph seconds when the chronograph is paused, and does not lock the minute recorder. There's no reason to have to pry the cam jumper over the cam to remove it, just remove the cam first. With the cam screw removed, simply pull the cam jumper slightly away from the cam and the cam can be lifted up without trouble. No need to subject the jumper to awkward bends. That fourth wheel is most likely not original to the movement. Never seen an ETA 7750 fourth wheel with the rim that thin. I have seen one with this exact geometry and that came from a Chinese Dandong 7750 clone.
  11. Well if that should happen I would take the bridge off and apply more. I dont remember that ever happening to me though. I always apply a big o heap. Hard to imagine the space between the jewels ever running out for how much ever you can fit in the concave before running off to the side.
  12. I've never had a need for these. Just leaving the oil on the concave space and assembling always worked for me. The oil always get sucked onto the cap jewel side. Just make sure the pivot finds its way into the hole smoothly (usually does) and not be allowed to wiggle around and spread the oil all over before connecting with the cap jewel.
  13. I've never seen a second's hand, in fact any hand with a "Male type" receptacle. Mind posting a picture of that?
  14. Must've been quite the shock to snap the balance staff in half like that. Who knows what else could be damaged. Almost anything is replaceable on a watch with enough effort. But imo the effort in this case is far from worth the cost of just replacing the whole balance complete, or even the entire movement.
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