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  1. 7 points
    rduckwor

    Three that I recently finished.

    First a nice Elgin driver, a "Parkton" I believe. Its been sitting finished so long I can't remember the movement details, but a 670 inside I "think". Next a 1928 Elgin in a "jobbers" case with a 6/0s, Grade 430, seven jewel movement. Finally, a lovely Elgin "Capricorn" with a 714 Shockmaster movement. Michael was a lucky kid in 1962. The movement dates to 1958. RMD
  2. 6 points
    jdrichard

    Made Another Balance Staff

    Cut another balance staff for an old British Pocket watch. Again used a piece of blued steel and cut 90% of the staff before breaking it off and flipping it around to finish the rolled table end and the lower pivot.Measuring the upper jewel hole with a pivot gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. 6 points
    DrG

    First watch

    Just wanted to share that I finished building my first watch. It runs on a Miyota 8215. Here is a picture.
  4. 5 points
    oldhippy

    Unknown tool

    It is for Barrels. Here is a photo of the type I had. The top gaps and bottom are for the width of the m/springs.
  5. 5 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    Most recent service from non running. Trafalgar instantime jump hour, different to the usual brick and unusually with date complication and with sweep seconds hand.
  6. 5 points
    JasonND

    Watch of Today

    Today is my vintage 1950s Gallet Multichron 45 fitted on a vintage 50s Gemex rice bead stainless bracelet.
  7. 4 points
    My sister and her husband went to a yard sale last weekend. They told me they saw a bucket of what they thought were watch parts, but didn't buy. I was disappointed. My sister drove back to the sale site last Monday and ask if they still had the bucket and the lady said yes—she didn't know what it was and was about to throw out. My sister gave her $5.00 US for the bucket, and here it is. Each container is filled with watch movements and parts. Some appear to be new old stock that was never used. Many unusual items relating to small tools. I don't see anything newer than possibly mid 1950's. As I go though the bucket to inventory I will post updated pictures to this post for all to see. Regards...
  8. 4 points
    Yes I know its not a complete set of jewels, but it still has a large selection of sizes and has the endstone I need to replace the broken jewel on a German WWII aircraft clock I'm working on and best of all it only cost me $80 USD plus postage. Sometimes you get lucky and stumble across a real jewel (pun intended) with a too good BIN price to say no....
  9. 4 points
    I’m not sure if it would be frowned upon by the watchmaking fraternity, but this has only happened once to me and it took about three days of soaking the screw (tiny amount on screw) in penetrating oil (e.g., WD40). It still needed gentle encouragement but it shifted it. However, I did then proceed to strip and clean the watch completely and needed to replace some heavily corroded keyless works components. I expect you’ll have the same. Good luck and hope that helps. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. 4 points
    Funny because I’m on my patio smoking a 5 cent cigar sorting out parts. Perfect combo.
  11. 4 points
    rduckwor

    Every vintage watch tells a story

    Vintage watches tell stories. They are written in the dents, dings, scratches and wear marks we see on them. I try not to alter the story anymore than necessary when I restore them. Sometimes it can't be helped. To wit: this old Wittnauer 73 Revue. The dial was just too far gone, so I stripped it and gave it a little polish and there was a beautiful gold dial hiding under the paint. The watch value wasn't sufficient to merit a dial restoration, so I just left it alone. Either you like it or you don't, but it stays. Sort of a "Stealth Gold". The other is a beautiful old Elgin 18/0 484 that I am restoring for my oldest son. Hopefully he will wear it occasionally instead of the electronic monstrosity he currently wears as a daily. Maybe for those special dress-up affairs. RMD
  12. 4 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Caravelle Superdatomatic, with a Cattin calibre C66 in need of a new balance staff and a new crystal
  13. 4 points
    Nutiborskoku

    Watch of Today

    Today a 1956 Longines with a 12.68Z movement.
  14. 4 points
    m1ks

    First jump hour service, wheel question.

    Here you go.
  15. 4 points
    Dpastl

    Dorsa with Lorsa 237

    The basic setup: Missing of course is the power supply, electrode, and thing to plate. The small jar of plating solution (Nickel acetate) is sitting in a water bath inside the ultrasonic cleaner. The water bath serves to conduct the sound waves into the plating solution. I've no idea if this makes things better, it's just what I did. It does keep bubbles from sticking to the surface of the object however. The result for me was a nice satin finish, similar to the crown on the watch For the case I polished and sanded this away to make it smooth and shiny. You can see a bunch of imperfections but that seems to be due to it being insufficiently polished and my worrying about breaking through the finish. So, some lessons learned from plating: It takes longer than you think. First attempt I stopped way too soon and it just looked like a weird thin gold plate instead, with all the brass showing through Get the object perfect before. It's not really possible to polish things smooth after plating and they're much more visible. Like most things prep is everything That's it for plating. If anyone has pictures from their attempts or suggestions for how to improve the process I'd love to hear them!
  16. 4 points
    Dpastl

    Dorsa with Lorsa 237

    I'm really excited about this project. I bought this watch because it looked interesting, not sure if it was repairable. Thankfully the movement was in good shape, despite missing a couple parts. I removed the last of the "gold" plating, polished the case, polished the crystal. I figured out how to Nickel plate the case (which turned out okay) from some sources online. Super happy with how it turned out! Before: After:
  17. 4 points
    Yes you should. Metal against metal is not good and will create wear. Only the tiniest amount is needed other wise it will create drag. So small the amount you can hardly notice it. A good tip also is oil just a few teeth of the escape wheel and not the pallet pins, the rotation of the wheel and action of the pallets will distribute the oil.
  18. 4 points
    oldhippy

    Watchmakers Bench Advice- Durston

    Whatever size bench you have it will never be big enough. Your posture is something you need to sort out, as damage can be caused to your spine and neck and eyesight. Height is very important. A comfortable seat, one that can be adjusted is best. Plenty of good draw space and you need hands on for tools. I see both benches have green as the covering and edges. The covering doesn’t go right to the edge that is poor, parts can be trapped and on that colour wood hard to see. Many on here buy old benches and do them up. There are photos of member’s work places on here in a thread. You could do a search. Don’t rush into the first thing you see. Planning your bench for you to work at is very important, after all you are going to spend a lot of time there.
  19. 4 points
    nickelsilver

    Question, HS in the family

    In the past, like over 50 years ago, each spring was vibrated to its balance. Each balance, while superficially identical, could be different enough from the next one in the box to make the hairsprings incompatible. The modern method is more automatic, the springs are colleted then cut to a given length, the terminal curve formed, stud attached. They are then each tested and graded into about 20 categories; the balances are likewise graded into 20 categories. If you look at the results of the categorization, it makes a nice bell curve, with the majority falling within perhaps 4-5 middle spots, the rest dispersed in decreasing numbers towards the ends. The balances and hairspring are just mated according to the category. If you try to mate a Cat 1 spring to a Cat 20 balance it won't work at all. If you try between Cat 9,10,11, it may work OK. Of course there's no way to know which one is which once it leaves the timing department of the factory. Balances with screws add a dimension of adaptability as you can add and remove weight easily. Solid balances can only have weight removed, and the adjustment is permanent.
  20. 4 points
    HSL

    Looking for a camera

    I agree with this, a good lighting makes wounders. Usually when I post here I take a quick picture with my phone and the 21Mp is quite fair and the files are small enough to upload. But a camera, correct lighting and a macro is what it takes to do some good movement por*. This pictures is just a part of a picture since I can't upload the complete one (Camera is a Sony A7R II 42,4 Mp so the files becomes large) but one gets what the difference in ligting do compared to my phone ones, this is just a part of the picture, it is just over 800k large! (or small).....
  21. 4 points
    If you’re like me, taking apart you first ETA calibre 2472 and feeling somewhat intimidated after having removed the case back lid looking down on the automatic works, then you will likely appreciate this post. By the way, except for the oscillating weight itself, the automatic winding device is identical for the following calibres: ETA 2450, ETA 2451, ETA 2452, ETA 2453, ETA 2454, ETA 2472, and ETA 2474. My only other experience of ETA’s automatic winding devices comes from calibre 2824-2. So, looking down on the oscillating weight of the ETA 2472 and not seeing a screw holding it attached to the automatic device framework, made me think the parts had somehow been riveted together and probably were inseparable. Having removed and looked at the back of the automatic device framework I could see that the oscillating weight was indeed attached with a screw or at least something that reminded me of a screw. Its slot was very thin, and it sat in a large jewel! No way I was going to try to remove it without knowing for sure it could be done and how it should be done, especially as this watch wasn’t mine but my brother’s who’d trusted it to me for an overhaul. My first thought then was to try to remove all wheels without touching the oscillating weight. After having looked at the device for a good long while, I realized I wouldn’t be able to remove a single wheel before separating the oscillating weight from the framework. So, I decided to be patient (hardest part of watch repairing), put the parts away for now and research the Internet. I Googled “eta 2472 how to remove oscillating weight”. The first hit was “Untitled - OM-Mechanics”, a PDF document. Well, I wasn’t feeling very optimistic but lo and behold, there it was, in full detail! Anyway, the PDF is pretty poorly scanned, and it isn’t all that easy to read the part numbers, so I decided to make my own picture guide for disassembling the automatic device of this ETA calibre 2472, and that’s what follows next: (Eventually, I’ll publish a complete ETA calibre 2472 service picture walkthrough. If interested, you’ll find a link to it in a future post in this thread.)
  22. 4 points
    Jpfarro

    1966 Gruen Date Minder (N522CD)

    I just finished this 1966 Gruen Date Miner. I had three of these movements just sitting in a do to bin. I was waiting on getting a case. I finally found one and now it's back in action. I was able to use me new old LnR master. It is running really good. New service including gaskets, new stem. It is now my favorite for the movement. Thx,
  23. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    The watch of today is a USSR era 19 jewel Sekonda 2628.H based TV face, probably from the late 1970s. EDIT: Ignore the fact that I've set the wrong date. It does work, honest. It arrived in a rather sad and tatty condition in this morning's post, and I actually got a chance to take a look at it at lunchtime, so I stripped it down, gave it a clean and sorted out the day/date issue. This evening the case got a polish and it got its first outing for who knows how long. The dial is a lot cleaner, but the minute hand still needs a little bit of attention. I filled the missing chip of paint, that had dropped out of the hand in the post, with a drop of PVA, but it will need coloured to match the rest. It is sitting a little fast, but is now back in beat, having gone from a beat error of around 14ms to less than 0.3ms after its service. I'll address its timekeeping and check the amplitude tomorrow. For those who are following this caper, this one made it into the 404 club with 80 pence to spare.
  24. 3 points
    jackie01

    Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider"

    Hello, I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy ( +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required.
  25. 3 points
    It works extremely well with movements that have seawater in them. Being a watchmaker not far from the seaside I used to get any amount of rusty watch movements to repair.
  26. 3 points
    Nothing wrong in that. I would have said the same thing. I expect you have rusty parts and that is why it won't release.
  27. 3 points
    Timex 1970 Electric Diver - Built with a combination old and NOS parts. old - Caseback, movement cover, bracelet, eleapsed time bezel ring NOS - Dial, hands, movement, stem\crown, crystal Althoguh the dial came with correct hands, the lume had cracked over time. So with a mixture of white glow in the dark hobby paint and some clear nail polish I replaced it. It does glow for a few seconds. The rest is the typical parts assembly so not much to talk ablout there. But, what to do with the strap or bracelet? I found this NOS black plastic bracelet in one of my parts bins and added the "Timex" clasp for a final touch. Brite was a supplier to Timex so the look and fit is great. Time keeping has been dead on for 4 days now. Going to be hard to let this one go. But than again I built it to sell so on to the next project.
  28. 3 points
    anilv

    Zodiac Astrographic

    Hi guys, Managed to snag a watch that's been on my wish list for the last few years.... a Zodiac Astrographic, It has the original band but a few mismatched links have been added. The band reminds me of the ones found on Rado watches of the period (NSA) down to the sprung clasp. The crystal has been polished... but its still a bit dull... looks like the did the coarse polish but forgot the finee grades. Will need to work on that and see if I can improve it, these crystals are not easy to get hold of and cost a bomb when they do come up for sale. The case has also been polished and has lost the radial brushing which is a big part of the attractiveness of these watches..I am not able to replicate that so it has to stay polished! The watch keeps time well.. (+4 secs/day) but I may open it up and give it a service anyway, these hi-beat movements need to be kept clean with fresh oil or they will wear out pretty fast. Not so much because of the high frequency but more because the mainspring is stronger than normal and this puts a lot of stress on the train. Here's some pictures. Anilv
  29. 3 points
    anilv

    Seiko 6309 - balance diagnosis

    If it runs fine dial up but doesn't dial down high probability the balance jewel on the dial side is dirty. You need to clean/oil that again. Another issue you can check is if the hairspiring is out of flat. Look at the balance while installed on the movement.. it should be parallel with the balance spokes and the whole movement in general. If it is slightly tilted it will hit either the underside of the balance cock or the balance itself. This might only manifest itself in one position. Good luck. Anilv
  30. 3 points
    JBerry

    Watchmakers Bench Advice- Durston

    CousinsUK quoted me £250 just for shipping on the Durston bench! So I started looking at other options... Just bought this bench on eBay from Germany! Absolutely delighted with the find
  31. 3 points
    oldhippy

    2e pocket watch maintenance...

    Your posture is very important. Your workbench and your seat has to be the correct height for you. If you are finding problems now, you must correct that, if not you will end up with neck and spine trouble. Speaking from experience it is very painful, it left me with spondylosis, when I was 50 my doctor said I had wear and tear of someone who was 80. The two pocket watches are doing fine.
  32. 3 points
    jackie01

    Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider"

    Works on this project are done. Here're the results below. It's my second project of the 8110A movement. I am very impressed about japanese design and engineering. What was done: - dissambly movement, cleaning, oiling - repaint bezel and fit new glass - repaint all hands -relume hands - new gaskets and springs for the pushers - new signed crown - little case polishing - assemble Now it's time to enjoy and wear it on the wrist. I'm verry happy cause this watch is small timepiece which fits to my narrow wrist just fantastic. Cheers
  33. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    This 1967 classic Timex accompanied us when we went out to the cinema with friends tonight.
  34. 3 points
    watchweasol

    Valjoux 7733 Service

    Hi You will probably find these tech sheets useful doing the V7733 . all the best 1060_valjoux 7733, 7734, 7736 Pages 1-5.pdf 1061_valjoux 7733, 7734, 7736 Pages 6-10.pdf 1062_valjoux 7733, 7734, 7736 Pages 11-15.pdf
  35. 3 points
    clockboy

    longines

    Have you tried this company, https://www.balancestaffs.com/product.php?all=long With this company you can put in dimensions and do a search as well.
  36. 3 points
    It's fixed. A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business. Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now.
  37. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Question, HS in the family

    Agree and you also have balance washers as well that can be added for weight, they have to be added evenly, if not the balance will be out of true.
  38. 3 points
    AndyHull

    70s Newmark Dive watch

    If I had a penny for every tiny component I have pinged into some parallel dimension, I'd probably have an 18 liter bucket of pennies. They usually turn up again, after a long search, or more likely, when you go looking for the next thing you loose.
  39. 3 points
    bettyswolloks

    Watch of Today

    Today I've been giving my '96 Accurist some wrist time. Had this since new, its cost me £100 from argos. Its lasted well though the alarm has stopped working, which is nice! Daz. Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
  40. 3 points
    JasonND

    Watch of Today

    Just went to a wedding and decided to wear my vintage Heuer Ref. 73473, circa 1971-72. This watch is very unusual when compared to other Heuers, and not many made. But interestingly not very sought after by Heuer collectors. As for me, I love the Classic 70's look. It is powered by the Valjoux 7734 and fitted on a vintage beads and rice bracelet.
  41. 3 points
    The following sequence of pictures shows how to disassemble the date mechanism of ETA calibre 2472 and ETA calibre 2474. Previously I posted a sequence of pictures showing how to disassemble the automatic device of ETA calibres 2472 and 2474 as well as ETA calibres 2450 to 2454. You’ll find the post here.
  42. 3 points
    nickelsilver

    Felsa 690 screw fouling

    It should go in the mainplate, bridge over it keeping it captive.
  43. 3 points
    rogart63

    Felsa 690 screw fouling

    Serviced a felsa 690 today . That screw is not right for the movement. Someone took what they had. You need to find the right screw or one that sits flush with the movement. BTW mine was also butchered around the hole. Why can't people use the right size screwdriver. Or i see now that you probably did forget to place the screw between the plates. If you do it would not stick up like that .
  44. 3 points
    Well done indeed as jdm says there is much snobbism in watches and timex and the russian watches take the brunt of it. You do your own thing and enjoy doing it and learning at the same time. After all a Rolex and aTimex just tell the time, a watch is a watch the only thing relative is the cost.
  45. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Hand Setters

    What you have there are hand setters used for clocks, some are push on some screw on. You would see those types on old 30 hour alarm clocks, any old clock that you needed to set the hands normally at the back. Also some set the alarm hands. If there are really tiny ones I expect those would be from travel alarm clocks.
  46. 3 points
    JohnR725

    Greasing barrel wall

    I have a link below to the website talking about lubrication of Rolex. Then I'm attaching a file that also talks about lubrication. So if it was a real Rolex you're supposed to use something called MR-1 that were never going to see in the real world. If you look at both references the mainspring itself is considered prelubricated only the barrel wall is lubricated with this strange substance. I think if you do a search we've discussed barrel wall lubrication somewhere else in the message board. Another recommendation Is Kluber P125. But if you use this yet be really careful a is just a real tiny bit because it is super sticky http://www.horologist.com/rolex_lubrication.htm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KNTrHVD088 https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/kluber-chronogrease-p125 Rolex-3135-tech.pdf
  47. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Sharpening pegwood etc.

    I just used a sharp pen knife. I also used cocktail sticks.
  48. 3 points
    Francisdownunder

    Sekio 6119c

    thank you for the advice, i changed over the date and then noticed that the screws were not the right ones, so replaced them and now all is good and going and keeping good time.
  49. 2 points
    clockboy

    Where to find bargains?

    Auction houses can be fruitful but be careful you need a close inspection which is usually offered a day or two before the actual day of the auction. Omegas ,Rolexes etc that are not working especially vintage are to avoided. If there is one problem when looking for antiques, watches etc is the sellers use the internet as we all do, so rarely anything is sold at a true bargain price.
  50. 2 points
    Wait, that's after 24 hours of running without winding, or after 24 hours, then wound up again? I would not expect the amplitude to be that high after 24 hours. As for the rate, in my experience that can shift easily as much as you have seen after a service. I usually let a watch run for at least a couple of days before doing final timing. Some calibers are worse than others!
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