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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points

    DOXA Searambler 1968 project

    Hello to you all folks, thought I should share this story with you ,,,, Then I finally completed my big project "Doxa Searambler 300T from 1968" which I have been working on from March 11 to June 27 this year, for about 14 weeks. And I have to say very happy, although I have not yet managed to find a good solution on the BoR link. Have been in contact with the Doxa factory via an acquaintance who is AD in Sweden, so let's see what gets there. But anyway, here's the story: Bought this on March 11 in miserable condition, see photo 1. It was pretty messed up after been worn after 50 years of use as a professional dive watch, so all of the marks were gone on the bezel ring, the glass was scratched, really needed a service, see photo 2 and 3. Some had also tried to change the casetube and crown without knowing how to do this. And should rather been doing things they fully master insted. The casetube was inserted with an wrong angel into the case, so the result was that the crown did not enter the movment right. See photo 4. To fix this, the old casetube had to be drilled out / pulled out. This one was not fastend good enought, so I could just pulled it out. If this is done right, they is stuck like hell. .. See photo 4. you can see the red line that shows the correct angle into the case, while the casetube that was mounted befor was incorrectly angeled into the case, see the blue line. A incorrect crown was also inserted, the original crown is 6.92 mm in diameter and 4.60 mm high, stem thread is 0.9 mm. The one sitting here was far too small and is completely wrong compared to the original. The dial was very spotty and had lots of marks after many dives. And that the lume had got the greyish color. See photo 5. So full dismantling was needed, stripping everything, movment out, glass out, bezel ring dismantled from the case, cleaning of all parts. So when everything was cleaned up, the build-up could begin. First the old case tube had to be drilled and pulled out, so it was dismantled, and the new casetube was inserted with a crown. See photo 6. Found a crown that is quite similar in appearance and about the same size. Doxa is known to have very little parts to these olde watch available unfortunately. So finding original casetube with crown seems like a pretty impossible task. See photo 6. Did service work on the movment, ETA 2783, no parts had to be replaced, just a little tightening of canon pinion, because it was a little loose in motion. Painted bezel ring by original colors. See photo 7. When it comes to the dial, I wanted a crisp and fresh dial, so I chose to use an friend of mine who is an specialist in restoring dials, and who is the real magician when it comes to repaint of dials. See for yourself....See photo 8. Lumes on the hands and indexes was put on by me, had to mix ut a certain light cream color lume to match ut the right patina. Also managed to source a glass made according to original spec. which was fitted. Then after about 3 months, all parts were mounted in place, the work was installed, the test round was done with brilliant results. And I could finally take this piece of jewelry on my arm ... See photo 9. Beautiful!!! Go...Go....Switzerland !!!
  2. 4 points

    Second project PATO

    Everithing Worked by CNC machine, eta 2825/2, sandwich Dial painting custom, strap hand made, Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1A utilizzando Tapatalk
  3. 4 points
    Those diagrams are of non-capped jewels, which are not to be used for balance wheel pivots. Here is a diagram of what we are talking about: The dome is there to keep the oil in the center with capillary action when brought to contact with end stone. There should not be any shoulders on balance pivots, but a gradual slope. Only surfaces acting as bearing surfaces are around the tip of the pivots. Otherwise there would be too much friction.
  4. 3 points
    Yes - but you really need a roller rest and a lathe with index holes in the pulley wheel so you can turn accurately through 90 degrees
  5. 3 points
    I thought you might be interested in this article that appeared on Hackaday https://www.empa.ch/web/s604/liga-watch
  6. 2 points
    Thank you Mark. I love this site and helping out. It keeps me sane.
  7. 2 points

    Mystery Omega

    You are asking for authenticity opinions, now beside that this is the wrong section for that, you really, really have to post pictures if you want meaningful replies.
  8. 2 points

    Took a Picture of all My Lathes

    I love. I was going to say a Murder of Lathes, because if I get one more my wife will kill me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. 2 points

    Jaeger Car Clock Info needed please.

    This catalogue may help to I.D the clock: http://www.hells-confetti.com/Technical data/Jaeger Instruments/British Jaeger Dashboard Instruments.pdf
  10. 2 points

    Easy out for watch screws?

    An easy and cheap way to remove broken screws is to use alum powder. You have to remove all steel parts from the plate with the broken screw and you let it sit in alum powder mixed with water. You have to check it regulary but in about 24h, the steel from the screw will become soft and you will be able to poke it off with a toothpick and clean it very easily. I used this method once for a 1966 Omega watch and got perfect results. Of course, you shouldn't use it on a movement with steel parts still on it as it will dissolve them but plates made of brass will not be affected by this product. Here is the one I used and purchased at a local grocery store: https://www.helloflavour.ca/en-ca/our-brands/club-house/products/herbs-and-spices/spices/alum-powdered
  11. 2 points


    Just adding that making carbide gravers yourself is quite easy, from broken drills or endmills etc. There are apparently many types of carbide, and the commercial ones that I have are of a darker color than the homemade ones. In the picture below, the two on the left are commercial, by Eternal tools -- pretty expensive. The rest is home made. They may look rough and crusty, but that's just the non-acting surfaces. The far right one was an experiment (very easy to make), and is actually my go-to graver for hogging hard steel. It is very hard to damage. If you start using carbide gravers, you need to be reasonably adept at using normal gravers, since any mistake will chip the graver or snap the tip right off. You can regrind it of course, but that's more troublesome because of the diamond tooling.
  12. 2 points
    It's an earley Seiko movement. Hence the seiko shoksprings . Not supercommon. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&UTC_233
  13. 2 points

    Inner ring / dial alignment.

    On this model you have to open the watch. Remove the movement and dial. Press out the glass, then realign the bezel to the movement whilst the movement and dial are in the case. Then repress the glass and bezel in. Annoying I know.
  14. 1 point

    Peerless 8mm lathe primer info?

    Ha! Thanks for the tip vin. I Didn't mention that my real job is occupational safety. JD, thanks for the info on the jackshafts. I don't think torque will be a problem with my motor. I def have enough to slip the belt under most circumstances. Have a good weekend all!span widget
  15. 1 point
    There are also UV cure epoxies. Examples here.. https://www.epoxies.com/products/uv-curable-illumabond/ Most of these glues can be found on ebay etc.
  16. 1 point
    Have you found the tech sheet for your caliber? They often actually list the cgs. Otherwise there are tables that correspond cgs to ligne size, which would be pretty close. If you need it spot on you'll need to have a selection of springs of known cgs, vibrate one that seems about right, check the diameter, then there's a simple formula to determine the correct cgs. Found one of the tables, it's in French but easy to figure out. If doing the test spring process, the formula is K=K' (D/D') 2 K is the CGS number you're looking for K' is the CGS of the spring you test D is the diameter of spring you need, at the pinning point D' is the diameter of the correctly vibrated test spring at the pinning point. Sorry to the OP Joe and I are hijacking the thread a bit, maybe a mod could move it to a new thread?
  17. 1 point

    Pallet Warmer Project

    in the USA, i remrmber pre TV radio, kids programs, but getting back to the job at hand; is there any thing better than shellac to glue "stones to metal" ? vin
  18. 1 point
    Hi FL, the only thing wrong with that watch is..... It's not mine ! Love it.
  19. 1 point

    Yema French Ebauche FE Cal. 4611

    Hello Nicksilver!! Tanks a lot, found out, thanks to you guiding...
  20. 1 point

    New opening tools

    No sweat, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32854299738.html May I suggest that that you don't include pics when quoting. As it makes the topic more cumbersome to read.
  21. 1 point
    An old pair of tweezers ground down to fit the holes will do a good job.
  22. 1 point

    Worn pivots

    Joseph bulova school of watchmaking, unit 4. Shows pictures of various pivot damage.
  23. 1 point

    Hi from TEESSIDE

    Hi Jez, welcome.
  24. 1 point

    Regulator not changing rate

    It could also be wrong hairspring.
  25. 1 point

    Watch of Today

    It lives! The 1/2 Kg strap monster lives. I was sure I must have at least one BG 866 balance fork in the junk pile and sure enough after a bit of a rummage I found one in a very beat up 21 jewel scrap movement. Ignore for the moment the fact that I am clearly an idiot, since I have set the wrong date on it, and listen very carefully, wherever in the world you are, and you can probably hear it tick. It may not be the most refined watch in the collection, but it sure is fun.
  26. 1 point

    Glass Polishing

    Success! Oil diamond paste landed, had a session on the Dremel with felt pad, took a while but managed to get the scratches out, to leave a light blemish that can just be seen at the wrong angle. I was going to do a bit more to flatten the glass further but didn’t want to compromise the glass. Time to practice some more [emoji846] Thanks all! Carl Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    I'm not sure if there's a problem here. Some watches can really belt out a "twang twang" , like a tiny banjo getting tuned. Maybe in the vertical positions the change in effect of gravity is enough to permit that. That's a pretty good size movement, wouldn't surprise me.
  28. 1 point

    Tag Heuer link watch!

    Hi done a bit of research, the attached instructions for the ETA 251.262 are the same, should give you an insight. Chronograph eta 251.262 Tag CS,CT 1111.pdf
  29. 1 point

    clock i got today part 2

    An advertisement by Chas. Waller and Son from November 1940. churchmagazine_st_nicholas_mrc_compressed.pdf
  30. 1 point
    Very, very valuable information @Marc! Much appreciated! Thank you!
  31. 1 point
    I didn't sleep too well actually. Well, I have a cold as well so that didn't help too much Anyway, good idea, I'll get back to you once I've recovered... It looks like my very good Swedish compatriot @rogart63 might be able to help me out (he has come to my rescue before). Anyway, I'll keep you updated on the progress. A big thanks to all of you for your compassion and willingness to help me out! Invaluable!
  32. 1 point

    Too much lock? Causing low amplitude?

    Here's the link to the mention software. Then the same software is also available on eBay. http://www.delphelectronics.co.uk/products.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-Clock-Timing-Machine-S-W-Witschi-Greiner-Vibrograf-Timegrapher/112473962615
  33. 1 point
    Just replaced the battery in my caliper. Here are the measurements: OD: 6.33mm ID: 2.86mm Thickness: 0.04mm
  34. 1 point

    Easy out for watch screws?

    the screw asochated with may be left hand thread. if that is so and 1/2 the screw head is broken off -- and down tight ! if so, it is a good time to learn; use penitrating oil and HEAT. cheers vin
  35. 1 point
    There. I knew I've seen it in a tech doc somewhere. It's listed as the "indicator distance piece." It's not in the current version on the ETA website though.
  36. 1 point

    My Pulrta 10 Lathe

    measure the thread diameter, count the threads per inch and look it up in the machinery handbook. cheers vin
  37. 1 point

    Glass Polishing

    This subject has been covered many times in this forum. Just put it in the search bar and you will find lots. Personally I find it too long a winded a process and I have had mixed results. If it is a deep scratch removing the scratch and still keeping the optics OK I have found difficult. Far easier, quicker and in real terms cheaper to just change the crystal.
  38. 1 point

    Quartz submariner not working

    Don't you just love $10 repairs.
  39. 1 point

    Too much lock? Causing low amplitude?

    It does look like quite deep locking, but I wouldn't assume that it isn't normal without a comparison. Don't compare it to any Chinese copies as I tend to find that these have a very shallow lock. I would doubt your mainspring is the culprit, from what you have described.
  40. 1 point
    My pleasure glad to be of constructive help.
  41. 1 point


    How about this custom dial that's not a decal but made by hand and lacquered and lumed by me
  42. 1 point

    Back again

    Welcome back Dave,
  43. 1 point

    Coupling nut?

    I think that's the right term.long nut threaded through used for coupling one threaded rod to another. Why do I ask? I have a few vostok amphibia cases I want to experiment with. My idea is to transplant another as of yet to be determined caliber into a vostok case. In order to keep the vostok crown I wish to cut the stem and connect it to another with a coupling nut...does such a thing exist in the world of horology?why do I want to do this? Simple..because I can.
  44. 1 point
    Well maybe a little harsh. If offered the fake or the real McCoy, I'm sorry but gimme the Rolex. If offered the fake or the money to buy the Rolex, I would probablyl take the cash. Having said that, I have no personal driving desire to own a Rolex. They look fine, don't get me wrong, but I probably got far more enjoyment of the Chairman Mao smoking watch than I would out of a Rolex. I'd only go and loose or break the darned thing anyway, so gimme the genuine Rolex, but the first thing I'm going to do is flog it and buy a bunch of other stuff that I actually want. There is a rather nice looking Omega down in a certain Stirling jewelers that gets the occasional sideways glance as I go past though, so my steely resolve to stick to sensible or affordable purchases cannot be absolutely guaranteed. The fake Rolex would however make a very fine member of the 404 club of course.
  45. 1 point

    spade drill bit set

    Did you buy that set because of that black stamp? Probably someone can say "Mission accomplished" then. Else such tools are unmarketable today. Even in 1944 (wartime, always desirable items) that set was outdated by far. Frank
  46. 1 point

    Tudor ETA 2447 Stem???

    Thanks for talking through this with me. It’s funny I search ETA 2447 all over but it wasn’t until I search “ETA 2447 diameter” that info about the stem appeared. I’ve ordered a 2360 stem - hopefully problem solved.
  47. 1 point

    Watch of Today

    The Slava 2414 twin barrel got a bath today. From stone dead and fully wound, to >260 degrees and around -30s/day currently. I'll let it settle overnight and do the final regulate, adjust and tidy up any remaining fine scratches on the crystal tomorrow. An interesting movement. One thing worthy of note is this comment on ranfft.de The keyless work is a little fiddly, but not that bad, but in my opinion you are more likely to encounter flying spring action from the date disk than anything else when stripping and cleaning.
  48. 1 point

    Sharpening pegwood etc.

    Didn't anyone make arrows as a kid. Stick and a pen knives and just sharpen the end. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  49. 1 point

    BSA C15

    It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.
  50. 1 point

    My Pulrta 10 Lathe

    This is the paperwork that came with it. Turns out it cost £21 in 1952 which is a bit more that the £300 I paid. I hope these are of some interest. Pultra Information.pdf Pultra Price List.pdf Pultra Receipt.pdf
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