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  1. This project has been ongoing for about six months. Another specimen from the box-o-watches. It was a mess when I dug it out. The dial was a wreck. It had the alarm, minute, and hour hand but no second hand. At the time, I did not know it was supposed to have one. Found out later that the center wheel was busted. The first threshold was to see if I could get the dial refinished. I won't go into the ordeal, but it took about four months from start to finish! I had a crystal in my stock so that was not an issue. I bought a donor watch that had some of the parts I needed and the
    10 points
  2. My interest in watches was sparked when I bought a birth year (and month) watch off ebay only to find it didn't work. I rang a few watch repairers and they quoted me about £300. No way was I spending £300, the robbing ********. So, one year later and £4,000 worth of tools I finally fixed my watch. Who's laughing now eh?
    6 points
  3. ETA 2836-2 Disassembly walkthrough here ETA 2836-2 Assembly walkthrough here When I started out servicing watches (Vostok cal. 2414) I was desperately looking for easy to follow walkthroughs and tutorials. That was several years ago. I did find a walkthrough on WUS, and I did find the YT-videos of former car mechanic Dan, the “Ratfaced Git”, and although his approach was much that of a car mechanic, rather than that of a skilled watch repairer (he hardly knew the names of parts, didn’t care much, and was proud of it), it inspired me endlessly and gave me - at that time a complete mec
    5 points
  4. Here is a cool piece of history that I picked up. It's a ww2 military Elgin nos with the original crystal, check out the radium burn. The Watch stopped at 2.30. It works well. I will service it soon, it has a 594 movement. The original box and bag is displayed. Cheers Graziano
    5 points
  5. Hi, I uploaded a bunch of my "attempts" over the past few months. Some worked, some are ready for the trash! I have tried a lot of things, but what is working best so far is to: Use waterslide decals to laser print the design and adhere to a pre-cut dial or even just a piece of sheet metal. I am finding that brass and aluminum shined up really well are working best I invert the design (black becomes white and vice-versa) and adhere to metal. Then I use salt-water electro-etching to mark the design into the metal. This can leave either a "raised" or "cut" affect on the meta
    5 points
  6. Does this count as an achievement?
    5 points
  7. Personally, I'm no fan of the shim theory, it might introduce more problems than it solves. Most pivots are fitted so they will work with the balance jewel lying flat, and the cap jewel too. If you tilt the balance cock forward or backwards the space for the side shake will be noticeable less even too small maybe. The end shake will also be affected and the pivot will for sure not rotate correctly against the cap jewel. A shim which lifts the balance cock straight up is okay if the end shake is to small, even seen people make small notches under the balance. I rather fix the root of
    4 points
  8. Hopefully if this helps.
    4 points
  9. In this months BHI (May 2021) mag there is an excellent article covering watch mainspring winders. The winders reviewed/ tested were Bergeron, Rolex, Chinese, Marshall,Kendrick & Davis (‘K&D’). The conclusions made replicate what I have said many times. One set does not cover all requirements with regard to barrel and arbour sizes. The Bergeron winders are supplied in either caliber specific (ETA) or by barrel size. The problem with this to cover all options 31 barrel bodies and cranks(arbors) have to be purchased. Not only is this above most horologist budgets the arbours are of
    4 points
  10. I have been given this watch recently, it's of no value at all really, but I decided that I would get it working again, if I could. Balance staff was in 2 pieces, lower jewel was smashed and the movement was totally gummed up. Good old Ebay got me a staff £8.00 and after a lot of searching through my box of jewels I actually found one that was close, so after opening up the setting with a brooch and pushing the new jewel in place we were a step closer. Unfortunately I'd run out of cleaning fluid, my own fault, so believe it or not I had to get out the Pegwood and clean it the
    4 points
  11. This PowerPoint presentation covers the basics in removing an Etachron stud, making your own tools to do so, replacing the Etachron stud to be able to remove the hairspring and balance, as well as removing & replacing Incabloc settings in the mainplate & the balance to be able to replace lyre springs. In slides marked 'Video' in the top left corner, move your cursor to the bottom of the screen and a play sign will appear in the bottom left of the slide 377149799_Lesson15.Incablocsettingsandspringreplacement.pptx
    4 points
  12. hi, thank you for letting me join this forum. I have made some attempts at making watch dials and thought I would share. I see many techniques in other sections of the forums, but I can't post there yet due to being new. Mike
    4 points
  13. Not for me I'm scared of heights. I won't even go up a ladder.
    4 points
  14. It gets better with practice. ? The secret is in tweezering technique. Firstly, dress your tweezers. It doesn't need to be expensive Swiss tweezers. But make sure the tips are straight, gripping properly. When you apply pressure, make sure the very tips of the tweezers don't open up. Tweezers slso have different closing strength. I prefer tweezers with a light touch. You can make a tweezer lighter by thinning the body of the tweezers near where the two blades come together. Next, learn to control your squeezing pressure. Don't use anymore force than is necessary. Squeezing hard
    4 points
  15. I really like the 1940's art deco style but it's hard to find a large case. This one is unusual in that it's 28mm. It's one of my top 3 & I probably wear it as much as my black strap watch because oxblood goes with almost everything.
    4 points
  16. Not really. If you want to remove the doubt from your mind fit a new mainspring, isn't expensive and doesn't require a winder.
    4 points
  17. First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can le
    4 points
  18. Good morning. won some lots recently. Waiting time is hard and long. But since the Xmas are not so exiting anymore, it is good Bitter sweet spice added to flavor of life ? They all ready for service by description. I bet I’ll be the first one for Chopard. So I’ll be kind to her ? Does anyone have experience with using Weishi 1000 for Co-axial movement?
    4 points
  19. I designed and printed this. It has a bearing embedded in it with a small clearance to create a nice rotation feel. The PLA I used prints beautifully and allows you to sand it a little which creates a tactile smooth finish.
    3 points
  20. This is another project I am working on at the moment. Will have a 38mm case and blued leaf hands.
    3 points
  21. Instal balance& cock as you do, leave the cock screw loose by couple of turns so the cock can be raised like 2mm, grab the balance rim with tweezers, raise the balance wheel by 2mm so impulse jewel is lifted high enough to go over the fork, drop the impulse jewel inside the fork horn, slide the lower pivot into jewel hole, tighten cock screw a bit, then slide the upper jewel into cock jewel, gently push down on cock with peg wood, lower the cock gently , oscilator should start running, make sure all is correct then drive the cock screw all the home,tighten.
    3 points
  22. My personal fascination is more along this bent. I took an online course on special relativity while recovering from an especially bad car wreck a few years back, and gained an entirely new perspective on time. It's a difficult lens to translate, but time pieces are incredible. I've mentioned elsewhere my buddy's work on the new experimental resonator for the atomic clock. It's so accurate, you can measure the difference in elevation within earth's gravity well within a cm... I am also a fan of history, and my first mechanical watch accidentally turned out to be a WWII German issued offi
    3 points
  23. Oooooooo. Yep, many of us have been there. First comes the shock, and the realization. Then the adrenaline, and the sour feeling in your stomach. Then the string of colorful and descriptive words. Not always in that order of course.
    3 points
  24. In almost all cases the pins are tapered, as John says, and the holes are usually straight as the pin conforms to its size as it's pushed in. The holes are just holes. If the pin worked loose, which can happen when manipulating them, the one real solution is to insert a new pin. I have millions so have never ordered but the supply houses do sell assortments. To install, place the regulator on a bench block with the pin holes over a hole, slide in pin, grip just above the hole with stout tweezers and press some more, trim (hairspring cutting tweezers are best) leaving maybe 0.10-0.15mm proud, t
    3 points
  25. 1930s for early 1900s pocket watch. When I'm in the nude, I mean mood...... VID_20200612_135726.mp4
    3 points
  26. If you are a "I have to have a tool for everything", go for it ? Never had one, never needed one, will never need one, neither a spring-winder. 10x trained fingers do make wonders happen ?
    3 points
  27. personally for $270 i would return it, this in my eyes would be unacceptable. if you are new at this ETA is not a great practice movement esp with a busted balance, unless you have the money to blow then go for it, but even if you get a new balance they are not just plug and play. there will be further adjustments needed.
    3 points
  28. Gentlemen LWS and JD, From watching JD's Videos I would say you are as good as any, . the quality of the work speaks for its self, which was the point I was trying to make. LWS you are a thinker and analyse problems well and if I had cause to have either of you repair a watch for me I would have every confidence. The point was more of a generality not a sleight on members or otherwise who take pride in what they do. Hope no offence was taken.
    3 points
  29. Hopefully not talking about me
    3 points
  30. Hi all, isn't it cool to see some of the inventions that have made our lives so comfortable over the years.
    3 points
  31. Referring to the article I wrote last week, regarding suspected magnetism of my movement-holder, I since learned a few interesting things. As described in the article, I used a compass to detect magnetism. According to the compass, the movement-holder guide-rails, the circlip and the adjustment-screw were magnetized. And so, according to the compass, were all my Dumont 95% anti-magentic tweezers. I tried to demagnetize all the movement-holder parts and my tweezers with my own made shaded-pole-motor demagnetizer, but the compass needle kept stubbornly showing magnetism. Doubting
    3 points
  32. I have been focusing on the Timex Campers the last few weeks and came across that looked like it spent time under ground. Here is the high level tasks performed: Soak strap in Oxy-Clean Clean case Clean and buff crystal Service movement replace crown grease stem tube Before and after -
    3 points
  33. I like the well-known brass movement holder for doing work, but when I have a movement in the "waiting for parts" mode, it is nice to have it sitting in a nice stable holder. So, I decided to print this movement holder. Print time was 20 minutes. Probably took me about that long to design it. Now that I have one complete, I can tweak it for other movement sizes with only a few minutes of effort. FYI, this is a Landeron 51 chrono. I cleaned it and it is running fine, but I need hands and a decision about the dial. I have a dial, but it is in really poor shape. I see hands and di
    3 points
  34. Orient Star 'Explorient'. Any ideas for the date of this watch? Movement 48748, case ER0T C0 CS. This watch is 36mm diameter and has the latest version of the Orient Star logo so I'm thinking not that old. Any Orient experts out there?
    3 points
  35. Hi there Micheal, by definition a field watch is a simple military watch, originally called “trench watches” they were designed for soldiers to wear in WWII. They were made to do one thing, and one thing very well: tells accurate time. They were made to be dust and waterproof, usually made of stainless steel casing. Hope that helps.
    3 points
  36. Just finished my latest project. eBay purchase at a very reasonable £53. Described as not winding. The head of one of the movement holding screws had sheared off and was sitting on top of the escape wheel, what luck! Fully disassembled, cleaned and serviced. Replacement screw was from a seiko 7625 just filed down a bit as it was slightly too long. I was surprised to find that the crystal was glass and not acrylic as I had read previously. Strap is vintage burgandy, the brand is 'bros' (Italy) and it's really nice. Lightly polished and is running like new, amplitude over 280 in horizontal and v
    3 points
  37. There are a lot of good suggestions for what the problems may be but in think you really need to step back for a moment and try improving a couple of things first before anything else. First off in order to be able to diagnose any issue in a watch, the watch has to be chemically clean and all the parts in good working order. So the first thing is to improve your parts cleaning. I would suggest pre cleaning parts during your disassembly. This will help you not only in your inspection process, which is going to be my second point, but helps to keep your expensive cleaners clean. You ca
    3 points
  38. Dear all; Working on a chronograph, after assembling the demagnetized motion-parts, the motion work ran all over the place. Next to a few other suspicions, the possibility that something had gone wrong during the demagnetization of the parts was one of them. Started checking the movement with a compass, but actually found that my metal Bergeon N˚4040 movement holder was magnetized. Even though the holders' side-plates and guides are made out Stainless Steel, the adjustment screw and circlip aren't. To find out exactly what was magnetized, I disassembled the holder and put each part o
    3 points
  39. What you should do for a learning experience is put in it anyway and see what happens. Basically once a mainspring gets the little bends like that there's nothing you can do. But shoving it in and seeing the effect should be interesting. It should cause uneven power which will cause some timing fluctuations which may or may not show up on a timing machine.
    3 points
  40. It is tarnish/patina see link below which gives home made solutions.However no matter what solution you use as always only try it on a small area first. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/remove-patina-metal-naturally-34798.html
    3 points
  41. Either be a magician and do it with a 5x loupe, or go pro* and use a microscope . *been using a microscope for this since I was in school last century. Also, as Hunter S. Thompson said, when the going gets weird, the weird go pro. My kids know that dad is a pro level weirdo.
    3 points
  42. I am attaching the Freecad file. I use Freecad which is open-source software that is heavily supported and it is FREE. Been using it for three years and love it. STL file also attached, but it is not as useful because it is much harder to edit. When I get some time, I will parameterize this for easier mods. movement_holder 2.FCStd movement holder.stl
    3 points
  43. Whatever the reason, I am happy to see the renewed interest in mechanical timepieces, in hopes that I will have more to work on, and more to save from the scrap heap. So, I'm hoping this trend will continue for a little while longer. I can be a hopeless romantic about mechanical watches. It's fascinating how they needed no battery to fuel them back in the day; just a few second's input of the energy produced by thumb and finger, stored in the spring, could power them for many hours. I always thought that was quite a return. And they seem, in essence, like little "tape measures for the in
    2 points
  44. I did not take one of my movement, but I can show you what it looks like. This is a picture from Ebay. A guy selling it for $500. Too much IMO. It is not working.
    2 points
  45. Me too not in this category at all but It seems the easier piece to fabric. I just need to find a thin sheet of brass Where to find this is another question. If I succeed I 'll send you what I've tried of course
    2 points
  46. Seem to remember that the spring should not be over lubed. i gather there needs to be some friction to stop it overrunning as it ticks over but not too much to make it judder. I have a note from somewhere I can't recall where (possibly from Cal 1022 which apparently may be similar to 550 as scribbled on same piece of paper!!), which states, "Adjust it (the spring) so that it has enough tension that once you lift it. the gear train spins just a little but not too much when the pallet fork is out. You want the centre (second?) wheel to turn about about half a rotation when you do thi
    2 points
  47. I suppose you would like to restrict this discussion to older stepping motor watches? Just wait until you get to new technology like making a stepping motor watch step backwards. Or clever ways to do away with the Trimmer capacitor and still get the watch to keep time. I'm attaching a series of images that should be helpful. In the image of the drawing of the watch casually your not going to see what you need to see. You have to look at the actual drawing of explaining how the stepping motor watch works to grasp what you're looking at in the other drawing. Specifically the stater is
    2 points
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