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Showing most liked content since 04/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Mark

    Polite question and answers only

    Moderators perform an essential role in any community, but all have checks and balances. I am the main admin and even I have to control myself in order to attempt to maintain a friendly forum. I am sorry you were prompted to create this thread - I think I know the reason. I am extremely busy at the moment creating new content for the course BUT I want it known that I still monitor very closely the security of the software. I cannot, however, have time to monitor each and every thread - that's why we have the "REPORT POST" feature (which people can use in order to notify moderators and myself of potential problems). It is discouraging and makes the community look bad when we see lack of patience and bickering so please do use this feature and hopefully we can keep this community growing. This is not the largest watch forum on the net - but I did start it with a vision for being among the friendliest
  2. 5 points
    Deggsie

    Watch of Today

    Made in Croydon circa 1938, a lovely example of a pin pallet movement. Sadly I sacrificed two hairsprings to achieve the geometry I was looking for. Very pleased with the accuracy given its age. I’d love to put it on a timegrapher to check the beat error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 5 points
    Well when I said old tool, here's a internet copy of a 1899 watchmakers suppliers catalogue similar tools appear on page 102 of the catalogue they may have at the time forgot to add your name to there mailing list . https://archive.org/details/20thcenturycatal00purd It does make interesting reading as a catalogue thats over 100 years old there are some very familiar old tools listed.
  4. 4 points
    I haven't been doing much watch wise, but lots of work on watch tools. I ended up needing to make a bunch of parts for a lever action tailstock for a small Schaublin lathe. I have the factory main casting and quill (the critical parts) but all the auxiliary bits are missing. The lathe is a duplicate so fortunately I had a set of parts to copy from. First is the tailstock drawbar. Toughest part was it’s a 11.75 mm metric buttress thread. For those not familair, look at the collet; the flanks are 45 and 5 degrees vs every other thread that is symetrical. It took longer messing about grinding the tool than cutting the thread, but it worked out well – its for a W12 collets Next up, is the tailstock lever. Not particularly difficult, but man, it was a lot of whittling! Files and die grinder mostly after roughing to shape in the mill. The turned portion I did by measuring the existing one, making grooves every ½” to the right depth, then roughing and finally finishing by hand turning. I stuck the dull end of a 1” boring bar out in front of the work grabbed a large radius nose tool (maybe 1.5” radius, ½” tool bit) in a pair of vise grips and went at it as you would with a graver in a watchmakers lathe. Paint is sprayed via airbrush, with talc in it to reduce the gloss. In the last pic, I have some touch up to do….the quills were slightly different dia so I had to grind a bit out of the inside so it would fit. Its watch tool related, but for a sure little different for this site so thought you might find it interesting....now back to the salt mine!
  5. 4 points
    Mark

    Oiling question

    A spot of 9010 just under the pinion and also on the wider portion of the pivot. "Should any oil be applied to the friction point between the jewel (on the inner/intermediate bridge) and the fourth wheel pinion, and if so what kind of oil?" Yes... D5 - as always, not too much. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  6. 4 points
    That’s nice to know. You can never stop learning. The internet was not around when I was an apprentice. I learned from my master. It just goes to show I’m an old fart. I enjoy the forum so much in helping others with knowledge that I have gained over the years.
  7. 4 points
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    I got this Bulova Oceanographer for a good price several month ago only to find out that the movement was incomplete . Actually , I didn't even know what the proper movement for it was supposed to be . After some research and inquiries on the Bulova forum I decided that the Automatic movement 11ANACB was the likely contender , so after a few failed attempts to at securing the missing parts with great help from my buddy and fellow forum member , ramrod , I finally got this puppy running again . A nice looking watch in the flesh even if my pics don't do it justice .
  8. 4 points
    TimFitz

    Watch of Today

    I am a sucker for coin silver interestingly engraved 18s pocket watches (wow that was a mouthful) This is a Waltham 18s Ellery 11jewel hunter made in 1885in a coin silver case. It was a bit sad when I bought it . I striped it down cleaned it, replaced the mainspring , replaced the crystal, installed a new balance jewel and cleaned what turned out to be a really great looking case that was black. As I said I love an interesting engraved case, and this Huge Bull is great. Tell me what you think & show your interesting cases
  9. 4 points
    Tipsy

    Watch of Today

    At dusk she sails. (1962 - cal 340)
  10. 4 points
    oldhippy

    Polite question and answers only

    I like to think this is a very friendly forum. I am sorry nad that you might have had bad experience.
  11. 4 points
    I don't know the movement but I have circled the relevant bits. You can see the dial feet poking through and held in place by a bevelled eccentric. If you turn the eccentrics with a screw driver they will release the dial feet and the dial will be liberated.
  12. 3 points
    I’m working myself through Mark Lovic’s “Watch Repair Lessons & Courses”. Before enrolling I wasn’t sure the courses would be worthwhile to me, as I had spent a huge amount of time researching the Internet on how to service watches, and had serviced several Vostok 24XX movements (very affordable movements, BTW). Now, in hindsight, the courses have proved to be extremely valuable to me. I’ve learned things that I just haven’t been able to find elsewhere, like how to easily transfer watch oil from the bottles to the oil pots, how the get the right amount of oil onto the escape wheel teeth, how to remove rust from pinion leaves, that I shouldn’t oil the pallet fork jewel bearings (and why!). The list could be made very long. Anyway, yesterday I finished the level 2 section of the course, named “Lubrication and Re-Assembly”, and as I beheld the magic of seeing the movement come to life again I shoot a slow-motion video of its beating heart, i.e. the balance wheel. For anyone interested you can see the video here. Thanks for reading!
  13. 3 points
    oldhippy

    What is wrong with this.

    wls1971. You have the two right answers. Replacement platform. The whole case is in fact brass and not bronze. Peanut goes to you. You are wrong about the date. The movement is around1860. The push on hands are correct and are matching, the style is spade. A big thanks to all for taking part. Next time I will have to make it harder.
  14. 3 points
    Not sure i would recommend that method for this kind of barrel. It may cause the lid to bubble. Same with the valjoux 7750. The lids on these kinds of barrels can be prised off, but do not do it with a screwdriver unless you want to damage the barrel teeth. Honestly, I find it just as easy to prise the lid away with my finger nails, although I am sure that would be frowned upon by some - never ever damaged a barrel that way. I believe Seiko' s idea with this barrel is that it was replaced complete when servicing. I could be wrong but I do not believe a mainspring was available for this movement as a separate part - But a barrel complete rather - if my memory serves me correct. Again, I could be wrong. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  15. 3 points
    To wrap this up.... There was indeed a jewel with my Seitz tool that seemed to be in the right direction ( 0,9 mm OD & 0,11 hole) so no excuse for not trying. And it turned out well with the balance wheel fitting nicely and spinning forever when tried without the hairspring. The hairspring turned out to be a bit of a nightmare. Appearing nice and flat on the wheel still on my table, it tilted heavily once the stud was pushed in. I spent several hours trying trying to grasp the dynamics of that thing and what influences what. Finally a tiny push a few mm’s from the stud levelled the spring to flat and parallell with the wheel. I suspect there must have been different materials used in hairsprings over the years? This one was really soft as butter and made very little resistance to maintain its shape when applying any kind of ”force”. After cleaning and oiling it now runs reasonably well with a decent amplitude. I attached a photo. With the clean and undamaged dial, I guess it’s an ok piece from the period or...? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  16. 3 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    Here is my cat "Lew" helping me adjust a pocket watch and adding a hair to places one should never be.
  17. 3 points
    marcoskaiser

    Cheap Pegwood

    Hello, I am new to this forum, hope to be joining the right thread. While watching Mark's course, I ordered my first tools and the clone movement. But it takes an astonishing 50 days for them to arrive... So to gain time, and procrastinate a bit from my real work (lute making) I started making a few basic tools. But finding the right profiles to copy is challenging. So many angles for the hand levers... I chose 30 degrees, and repurposed some useless screwdrivers I had around. Next the oil containers..which size? Is it critical to have small concave pools? Or they can be 8-10 mm wide? I used some camera lenses, with concave surfaces. Cannot imagine something closer to the agathe or cristal used on the professional ones. For the caps, I used more lenses. The container seems tight enough to hold the dust outside, while good enough to concentrate the puddle of oil on the center. One interesting effect I found is that with the cap (the second lenses) I can see magnified how contaminated my oil already is... Then the oil needles.. The shape is easy to copy, once you find close images of fine oilers, but what kind of surface transports oil best? Shiny or matte? ( when cleaning the dippers, it seems that a shiny surface is best for assuring nothing remains on the tool..)
  18. 3 points
    GeorgeC

    Low amplitude on 70s Waltham

    I don’t see any hairspring stud screw in the photos, is it missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. 3 points
    clockboy

    the big 3 tools

    There are many manufactures of these items. My advice is not to be to frugal when purchasing. I personally like the Dumont tweezers I have used others but I find the Dumont seem to stay in shape for longer periods. I have tried many magnifiers but found Bergeon "screw rimmed" suit my needs. I like that you can unscrew and clean the lens. For screw drivers the A*F are really good value I have these + Horotec which I shape using their sharpener which shapes the blades into a T shape.
  20. 3 points
    mikepilk

    Barrel w/out pry hole

    I rarely use the holes. On a hard surface I press down just above the gear teeth using my thumbnails. The top usually just pops off.
  21. 3 points
    Chopin

    Seiko 7s26 problem - need help

    Had a pretty similar issue with such a movement and the hairspring was a bit faulty.
  22. 3 points
    Mark

    Stuck Screw Back

    All off-topic posts removed - this is how it will be from now on. Please please please keep threads on topic out of respect for the OP. Please please please - no bickering, and that goes for everyone. It makes our forum look bad - we are a group of great people, we can keep it that way. If anyone spots this happening again from now on - please report the post - there is a link above every single post, I will be on it like flies on a turd. now - back on topic, pretty please
  23. 3 points
    rogart63

    Replace lead gasket

    Finally watch ready with new mainspring and new rubber gasket. Worked perfect.
  24. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Newbie needing help

    I don’t want to burst your bubble and you asked for my view. Unless you have a lot of experience, it will be extremely hard to pull this off. It looks good on paper but to get it just right I don’t think it will work. Silver solder is quite soft and you will not have the space for the solder to have a solid grip. Why don’t you put it to the side and keep checking for a spare stem.
  25. 2 points
    jnash

    Eta2892 Automatic question

    Or tell him to get a quartz!! Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
  26. 2 points
    oli

    Seiko 2220A Mainspring Servicing

    It looks like the same design as the 7S26 barrel Mark made a video about it, the same procedure probably applies https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DlyNICm2N9k
  27. 2 points
    PeterS

    Unitas 6497 shock spring replacement

    Actually, I have some stones for sharpening knives. Several grades up to mirror finish. I’ll have to give it a go one evening. There are three possibilities why it doesn’t fit, I think I’ll only be able to do it if it is the option ‘1’ as per my picture.
  28. 2 points
    rodabod

    BHI 2018 Examinations

    Hi Olivier! I was going to email you about the mechanical watch exams. Hope they went well. @oldhippy, regarding the exam format, I used to agree with what you are saying, ie. all you need is to learn on the job, and if you can “do it” then that proves that you know it. However, I’ve changed my mind after completing the BHI courses. The theory exam uses various methods to prove that you understand from first principles how everything works. It’s the only simple means that they have of determining that you really understand an aspect in depth. So for example, they ask you to explain via diagrams and text how the drive is delivered from the crown to the winding pinion. Some people will make the mistake of thinking that the stem directly drives the winding pinion for example. All of the theory behind metallurgy I’ve learned through the course syllabus, and it’s just not something that I’ve learned through experience. I notice that many people on this forum know little about the subject - eg. the correct carbon content and temper for a wristwatch screw. A few of us “watchies” struggled more with the clock theory questions. And we realised that it would have been much easier if we’d spent more time physically working on them. So that in itself proves that working on the job helps to aid your understanding of theory. Or alternatively, your understanding of theory proves that you’ve worked on the job..... I think one of the best things about the BHI is that they set a benchmark for the standard of work which watchmakers provide. I’m not saying that anyone who posts here is a “bodger”, but we’ve all opened up enough watches which have been mucked about with by other watchmakers. The practical exams let you prove that you can work to a certain standard, and the theory exams reinforce that by showing that you understand how it works underneath. For me at least, I know that my watchmaking (and clockmaking) skills have improved massively since studying the Theory and Practical courses, and I suppose that’s the main thing that matters for me.
  29. 2 points
    anilv

    Junk evaluation

    The memosail is a high-end watch and some parts are not available. the dial and hands will probably be of value to someone. The omega pocketwatch is nice but they're not really worth big bucks. They dont have balance protection so the balance is probably broken. I would save the citizen for late once you've gotten some practice on simpler stuff. The Orient is a good starter watch.. better than most chinese clones. Not sure of the vedeor but should have a jewelled escapement and this would be a good starter watch, especially if it has an Incabloc shockprotection. Don't feel bad about the fact the dealer may have given you a valuable watch, he's a professional (or should be) and should know better. The usual reason for orphaned movements is 1)the shop replaced a non-runner with another working movement or 2)the case was gold and that was sold for scrap. My guess is (1) for your bare movements like the Citizen and Memosail. Another scenario is the older watch repair guy is no longer around and the new guy has no use for these things. My personal experience, after checking the movement of a watch that's sent to me for service, I have sometimes found that the watch is not repairable or would cost to much to repair. After telling the owner the news some have opted not to repair but have later come back after having sourced a similar watch/movement and requested me to do the transplant. They usually have no interest in the original unusable movement so it goes in my part stash. Good luck and have fun! Anilv
  30. 2 points
    wls1971

    Smiths Empire RAF 1943

    I have two of these clocks, both dated 1943 the case is made from Bakerlite the ones I have are slightley different and have the issue date and a broad arrow on the dial and have a smiths 123 movement with the platform on top of the movement. They are a straight forward movement to service the only thing to watch on these Smiths platform escapements is that the regulating arm sometimes doesn't move the regulator index or will only move it one way this cause the platform to run at excessive speed gaining minutes a day. You can move the regulator arm and make no diffrence to time keeping so when you service it make sure when you move the arm the index actually moves. The cases where made from bakerlite because a war time shortage of oak made it too valuable a commodity to waste on a clock, do not use any type of abrasive cleaner or solvent based cleaner on the case just use a good quality wax polish the finnish on bakerlite is only skin deep. These where issued where ever they where needed so could have been in a office, op's room canteen any where some times there is a stores number painted on the back of the clocks this can make it possible to work out which R.A.F base it was issued to. These are often described as rare which is stretching it quite a bit they where made in quite large numbers by smiths and prices on the web and Ebay seem to go from sensible to cloud cuckoo, I paid 100 pounds for one and 70 for the other quite recently. at auction houses they seem to go for a max of 300 pounds but quite often much lower Another thing to watch is the bezels are spun brass and quite flimsy at the hinge I replaced the glass on the one I have on the wall in my living room with perspex which is much lighter and kinder to the hinge than the original glass fitted ( retain the original glass if you do this). As far as restoration goes your clock doesn't really need any the dial is good with only minor paint loss where the dial screws go on the edge, the dials quite often suffer from rust and discolouring, do as little as possible and leave as original as possible is the only advice to give.
  31. 2 points
    Johnnie

    Ingersoll navigator

    Hi, just introducing my newest addition. I am not usually interested in battery watches but this one caught my eye as it is rechargeable and came complete with the charger and spare bracelet links. It's keeping perfect time and appears to be virtually unworn. I don't know anything about this watch, age etc and if anyone can enlighten me I would be grateful. Bought at car boot sale for £12.50 so it didn't break the bank and seems very well made.
  32. 2 points
    inking pad (pic below) ... the process : 1 - get a square of plexi just a little larger than the one you nedd 2 - stamp your watch case on the inking pad then on the plexi 3 - use a dremel to grind the plexi to the right dimensions (you can also grind a bevel all around the upper side of the plexi) 4 - polish the sides 5 - press it in the watch case (you can use Hypo cement or UV glue if needed) but without a dremel you cant do all that So you should follow oldhippy's advice and have a custom crystal/plexi made
  33. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Make a screwhead?

    Here are a couple of options https://www.hswalsh.com/product/slotting-screw-head-file-cut-4-hf71 https://www.esslinger.com/screwhead-file-with-tang-makes-slot-in-top-of-screws-swiss-vallorbe/ Ideally you would put the screw in a lathe and use a double roller file rest to keep the file in the right place
  34. 2 points
    manodeoro

    Connecting Stem to Crown problem

    Esslinger have 0.9/1.10 stem extensions ... They call that "stem extenders". I think it would be better to cut the extension first, short enough so that the 0.9 connector is as close to the crown as possible, then cut the 0.9 stem to the right length. That's the way I do and I've never had any problem. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  35. 2 points
    As the dial feet sits outside of the movement. Maybe the the part screw is loose enough to be removed with a small screwdriver? Or maybe it will come out when you clean it. Do you have a ultrasonic cleaner. If so test to clean it first. Those screws has a tendency to rattle out if not tighten up before Ultrasonic.
  36. 2 points
    Gryf

    Seiko 6106-8489 - broken autowind lever

    Following up - we're all set with a new autowind module, thanks to an eBay vendor parting out a 6106C. Now for a new mainspring... I was out of town for several days and project Seiko lost momentum. I hope to get it wrapped up shortly, and wear my college watch again! ;-) thanks again, Gryf
  37. 2 points
    jdrichard

    Watch hands alignment.

    Make sure the watch is not running. Then align the hour hand to 12. Then stick the minute hand with rodico half way down the hand place it in position. With your other hand press it down all the while slightly adjusting it holding the ridico. This will work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  38. 2 points
    anilv

    Barrel w/out pry hole

    Ditto on not using the holes. There is potential to distort the lid and the fit of the lid will suffer. Anilv
  39. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Lew & Me

    What a lovely puss and lovely blue eyes. Since my loss, this is becoming one of my favourite threads
  40. 2 points
    Its an old tool used for cutting jewel holes in plates or widening existing holes to take a new jewel, the plate is used to set the tool to cut a hole at a given size,
  41. 2 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    My cat Fred died 3 years ago, and every night I still put his favorite towel down in the place he slept.(On the bed) which I did for 10 years
  42. 2 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    These Cat friends give so much that makes life more complete.
  43. 2 points
    dadistic

    Screwdriver set

    I use a pencil roll like this for many of my tools. Easy to roll up and put away when done. During use it lays out at the top of my worktable, makes grabbing a screwdriver, hand levers, pin vise etc. very easy. Best of all, not expensive. This one is Derwent.
  44. 2 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    Lew not only helps with watch repair, He also helps with my paintings. People who buy the picturs get a little bit of "Lew" in the paint, some hair
  45. 2 points
    EnamelDial

    Tarcze grawerowane kwasem.

    Nowe tarcze na stali 0,5 mm. Graweruję je kwasem. Pozdrawiam Leszek
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    PeterS

    Watch of Today

    SARD007 I love it as much as I did the first day I received it.
  48. 2 points
    Don't use grease. Maybe some 9010 would work best. To thick grease or oil and it won't work.
  49. 2 points
    omx5o

    Is this mainspring ok?

    Just an update. I received the new mainspring from Cousins today. Checked it against the barrel and as expected it was a fraction too big to just drop in. So I carefully unwound it by hand and used a winder to get it into the barrel. This is where it got a little interesting as I had problems the first time I used this winder because I used the wrong size so I selected what I thought should be correct size for this one. However, when winding I discovered that with about an inch of spring to go it suddenly jammed and I realized that the winder barrel was full and stopped the spring being completely housed. Fortunately I worked around the problem by continuing to insert the winder into the watch barrel as normal and then manually feeding in the inch of remaining spring into the gap around the edge of the barrel. I tried pressing the winder button but it was too stiff since the spring was jammed in, but fortunately with a little tap of a hammer the spring popped into place. So far so good. Then I noticed that the spring's inside coil was just a little too big for the arbor which meant it just freely rotated without catching. So I carefully used pliers to shrink the size of the inner coil. The arbor then slotted firmly into place and after returning the barrel lid, it was winding successfully. After that, I re-assembled and oiled the watch by closely following Mark's course videos. The movement is now happily ticking away with an amplitude of 274 and a nice steady beat. I think the balance might need realignment as there's a large gap between the dots on the timegrapher, but so far I'm pretty chuffed with it all. Thanks for the help. Peter
  50. 2 points
    TBH I've always just used a small electric hot plate. Lay the bezel on it and keep trying the crystal until it fits, then switch off and let it all cool down slowly. I've never measured the temp. However, a quick Google search turns up this site; https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-thermal-expansion-d_1379.html If I'm using it right then it looks as though heating a brass bezel from 20C to 200C should give you just over 1mm expansion across the diameter of a 35mm bezel aperture.