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  1. 6 points
    Wesley881

    Rockford Electric

    Just in from the 'Bay on a second chance offer! I had missed by a dollar before and fate has brought this little gem my way. This is an economy Standard Time Corp. movement and is cousins with the Hamilton 500 or 505(?). I think maybe it shares a balance assy. Loving the clear caseback as well and the offset crown is very comfy. Keeping good time so far but perhaps in need of a cleaning as the balance adjustment is pegged. Also sorting a huge part and tool lot I got in trade for some service work, will post some photos soon. C Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  2. 6 points
    hofnerpres

    Escape wheel wear pictures

    Hello guys I've been renovating quite a few 1960s Seikos recently and a couple have shown very scattered traces on the timegrapher and generally ratty running after cleaning. All three responded to a new escape wheel very well. Being unable to see the wear using normal magnification I decided to try one of the £15 USB microscopes available on fleabay. They are too light, the software is hit and miss but glue it onto a heavy base and they will do the job. The difference between a good and bad wheel became obvious. The square corners get rounded off by the fork pallet jewels and precision is lost. The first two shots are from a worn 6602B and a 7625A Auto. Note the rough finish but 50 years ain't bad - neither watch back showed any servicing marks and were bone dry. The third shot is also a 6602 but it's a good performer - note square edges. The last is from my new baby - King Seiko 4402. Very different quality. Three lessons. 1. These devices are fine for simple close examination. 2. Don't neglect oiling the escape pallets - it's tricky but worth the effort 3. Once you've handled a part with your fingers it needs cleaning again - it's horrifying how many skin particles appear.
  3. 6 points
    Tmuir

    New Tools!

    I have been working on a Seiko Quartz watch and I could not get the bezel off using my case knife like I can usually so I decided it was time for some new tools, especially as Eternal tools had a 15% off sale. I cashed in some of my bitcoin I purchased a few years back and managed to buy all this. Thirty seconds with the Horotech case opener and I had the bezel off. I also got myself a couple diamond files and expanded my range of Horotech screwdrivers too. This should satisfy my new tool craving for a few weeks. :-)
  4. 4 points
  5. 3 points
    When you mention complications in horology, it is usually something which is complex (hence 'complications' !). Even the simple complication like a date adds several parts and springs. But once in a while a complication comes by which is whimsical in nature and simple in execution. Such a complication was a feature of the 'Mondia 'Top-second'. At first glance it looks like any other Swiss watch from the 70s .. Then something catches your eye..did I see something there? The clever chaps at Mondia came up with a way to lend a bit of interest to a normal watch by having a 'porthole' in the dial through which a coloured 'propeller' could be seen giving a blinking effect. Some online references state that the propeller is fitted to an extended to an extended escape wheel pivot but I think that that would be too slow. I remember seeing a pciture of the escape wheel for this watch which has an additional wheel to drive a dedicated wheel for the prop'. The watch has not been serviced and is high on my to-do list as there is very obvious water damage on the dial. I'm still looking for a new dial or at least one in better condition but no luck so far. A new crystal in in the cards as well as this one has yellowed glue round the edges. The caseback is simple enough.. it gives information but no mention of the manufacturer. This was common practise in the 70s with a lot of Swiss watches being housed in generic cases. But on the inside we see that it really is a Mondia! I was really expecting to see 'Çased in Hong Kong'! Does 88 mean the watch was last serviced in 1988? More than likely! Here we see the movement spacing spring is in place as well. On older watches they're usually missing! Next up is a picture of the AS1913 movement. Not my favourite movement to work on but it does its job. The part of the stem that can be seen looks rust free and overall the movement seems to be reasonable condition. Note the 'Mondia', '25 Jewels 25' and 'Swiss' are printed on rather than engraved into the rotor. Another sign of the 70s. Finally the crown. While it is 'marked', it is a generic water proof crown. Not good as its not original but at least the watch has seen a semi-competent watchmaker who made the effort to change the crown to ensure water-proofing. You see those use 'branded' crowns on ebay? Those were removed and replaced to ensure water-proofing, and now they're having a second life for those who insist on a 'signed' crown! Hope you enjoyed the pictures. Anilv
  6. 3 points
    JD good of you to post a vid uncensored. I found myself shouting at the vid How that cannon pinion came off without any residual damage is a miracle. I suggest you purchase a nice cannon pinion removing tool. However should be a real nice watch when finished.
  7. 3 points
    ricardopalamino

    Avia and Doxa….

    You've said it all . The chase or the hunt is half the adventure . Part of the equation of a self fulling prophesy that culminates with the prize on your wrist,……….as you begin the next chase . It's amazing how many times I have decided to look for a particular watch or item when they start to pop up .
  8. 3 points
    I have one of those testers that has red yellow and green. It showed the battery between yellow and green so I guess I made the wrong assumption. You learn something new everyday. I have basically serviced the movement now and the problem has been fixed. I placed back the old battery and the seconds hand started to rotate twice rather than once which is what it does when battery is low. I installed a fresh different battery and the movement works fine but that battery doesn't sit right inside as it's thinner so now I will just wait for the proper batteries to arrive. Thanks everyone! Maybe the old battery drained while in storage, somehow ?
  9. 3 points
    I had a Seiko some time ago that had a similar problem. I put it carefully over the de-magnetiser (not too close) and ran the stepper motor for a few seconds. This cured the problem but I never found out what the problem was. Probably a tiny bit of dirt in the gear train ? Maybe it really needed a strip and clean etc but it is still going fine for some 2 years now.
  10. 2 points
    This popped up on ebay last week as a £50.00 buy it now During the Great war the British military had been issuing pocket watches to serving personnel and hadn't supplied wristwatches, these where instead bought mainly by officers privately for use at the front lines with wristwatches improving and the introduction of the water resistant cases, unbreakable crystals and radium dials the Trench watch was born and became an item of necessity for serving personnel. It wasn't until 1917 that the war department purchased the first batches of wristwatches supplied in two forms the first being a classic trench watch of water resistant case, black dial with radium numerals and unbreakable crystal and the second type being a large cased snap back, black dial with radium numerals all had 15 jewel Swiss movements. These watches where purchased for the purpose of evaluation to assess the usefulness of issuing wristwatches to serving personnel. This watch is of the snap back type and has a unusually large for the period 38mm case made of nickle, the dial is black enamel with radium numerals. All the snap back models have issue numbers that follow the same form a five digit number beginning with a nine followed by a letter M there is also a Broad arrow mark or Pheon crudely stamped on to the back some watches are stamped with two broad arrow marks that touch at the tip this is thought to indicate that the watch had been withdraw from service. The movement in these large snap back models is the same in all known watches where as in the water resistant 1917 watches there is some variation. The movement is a good quality 15 jewel movement and no one has yet been able to identify who manufactured them there are no identifying marks but there is a brevet patent number on the dial side so it may be possible to trace that and establish who made the movements. No one is sure what branch of the armed forces these snap back watches where issued to but it cant have been to front line personnel because having no water resistance would have rendered them pretty useless in the field, many have speculated that they could have been issued to the flying corps because the design mirrors quite closely the pocket watches already issued to them at the time, these snap back models where only issued in 1917 and withdraw from service shortly after, but the water resistant watch became a regular issue watch there after It is however an interesting footnote in the development of the military wristwatch and is amongst the first officially issued and stamped British military watches of the Great War.
  11. 2 points
    jdm

    Refitting back cover after battery change

    The reason why certain snap backs can't be closed by hand is that the pressure must be uniform on the entire edge, not on the center. One can try improvising shaping two pieces of wood as dies in a vice, but be careful, it is a matter of precision, not force.
  12. 2 points
    If you can't get it on with your thumbs it's going to need pressing back on , worth investing in a press if you plan on doing more in the future , they are cheap enough on eBay
  13. 2 points
    JohnR725

    re-seating an incabloc spring

    So I have far too many pictures to go through but I haven't given up but in the meantime I'll try to explain taking something out of the video above. So the very beginning it shows how things go together. At around 11 seconds to get a silhouette. If you look at the image I have attached notice I drew a red line and then look at the video you'll notice that the tail end of the Gold spring hinges In that convenient slot. Because there's a slot spring almost never comes out. But in the Chinese version cutting that extra groove was complicated so that's missing. This means when you hinge it up there is nothing to hold it in place it typically falls out. So found some of the pictures. I labeled one bad clone this is where should be the same setting that you have I do not recommend taking it out I only did it to get a picture. So you notice there is no cutaway slot like in the video there's nothing holding the spring once it's released its free to go where it feels like. Then there is a Omega setting and you'll see the cut part and the spring is also in there so you can see that does not come out. Now comes the problem attempting to describe something that I don't have a picture of. So in the picture labeled putting back in notice the pinkish colored line going at the angle? Whatever you do do not force the spring if you get it right it almost just floats in to place. So you need to put the spring in at a angle in other words basically Corner to corner of the open area underneath I can't remember if You have to stick one of the tabs in first I vaguely think you can just literally drop it in the corner to corner. Then basically rotated so it's in the correct position and then it hinge right down. Then I'm sorry if my description sucks hopefully it makes sense.
  14. 2 points
    If you are an amateur or hobbyist be in the right frame of mind to undertake the task. People that make a living out of horology have to knuckle down and get on with it. One thing that helped me was to get up and walk around or undertake a different repair and this time of the year make sure the workshop was nice and warm.
  15. 2 points
    I suffered a breakdown watching this. What a very lucky guy you were in not wrecking this movement. For my health and sanity, I will skip part two. clockboy I was doing the same
  16. 2 points
    I always used a pair of watchmakers nippers. They get right behind the button and with a good pull it did the trick. Left no marks.
  17. 2 points
    Mark

    Bad Experience with Esslinger

    Wow you get 30 days? Cousins wont even give 1 day. They force you to waive your consumer rights when you make an order by stating that it’s a b2b sale rather than b2c. i have vowed never to use them again on many occasions in the past but I still kept going back for one simple reason, their website and ordering process is extremely convenient and their shipping service very dependable. one time, they provided a damaged mainspring - clearly visibly damaged as seen through the packaging, complained, refused to replace, ordered another as were on a tight time frame - the next one cAme through in just as bad condition. Ended up ordering from gleaves and got the job done. Zero customer support from cousins. Still ordered from them again. you lost $5. How about $89 for an eta we ordered which was a non runner. Had to replace one of the 5 coils from one I had in stock to get it working. That was a foil packed movement. Zero help from cousins. 30 days? You are lucky to get that
  18. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Hard to spot wear/damage.

    It is good practise always closely examine every part. Try to remember this with every repair, it will soon come naturally.
  19. 2 points
    jdm

    Crystal size again.

    Measured or known size 29.3 or thereabout, order 29.3. That's all really.
  20. 2 points
    http://mms.epubxp.com/i/891901-nov-2017/76?m4= Page 74 of this E magazine has a watch manufacture article you may find interesting.
  21. 2 points
    CKelly

    Accutron 218

    Hi all, It's been a while since I posted anything here but tonight I was working on a watch and I thought there might be some interest in looking at it. The customer said the second hand would move but the hour and minute hands wouldn't. Usually that means the minute wheel assembly has became worn however today that part had became seized onto the center tube. Anyway I took a picture of what is under the dial of a 218 in case there was any interest. Notice the three springs that are laying about. The first time I tried working on one of these I lost every one of those things and maybe some of the other parts as well. I told my wife it was like trying to bait a mouse trap after you had already cocked it. Anyway I have this watch going now and here's what it looked like before. Charles K
  22. 2 points
    Ishima

    Dial feet repair

    1 or 2 people were swearing by that JB weld for attaching new dial feet at one point on the forum, but when I tried it i found it was only a shade less than completely useless, I don't know if I'm doing something wrong but I've never been able to get any kind of cement to bond properly between the replacement copper dial feet i have and the dial, always snaps off without barely any effort. I think short of special, costly welding equipment you have to accept that dial dots/strips are your best shot, it's the kind of thing that irks most repairers, we all want a better way of doing it i think, but it usually works out okay, at least if the movement ring is a fairly tight fit in the case.
  23. 2 points
    Tmuir

    Rubbed in Jewel Closing

    The trick is a lot of sellers don't know what they are and think they are vices or draftmans tools. I regularly (read daily) do ebay searches just on the word 'watchmaker' and then select it to only show me 'used' items, thats the way I find most items. There is one set on ebay now finishing in a couple of days and was another set that just finished a day or two ago. I would be bidding on this set myself if I hadn't just spent several hundred on other tools. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Watchmakers-tools-set-of-cased-holding-pin-vices-numbered-set-of-6/362173530735?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Sorry for dragging your post off topic Jdrichard, nice job I've yet to try to replace any rubbed in jewels myself, I'm still after a closing set of tools
  24. 2 points
    There are no stupid questions, we are all here to learn
  25. 2 points
    Just finished my second balance staff. For a full plate Waltham.Original Balance Staff. Used for reference. I also made a youtube video of cutting the roller table staff part and the final pivot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  26. 2 points
    Hi Everyone, Recently I have become obsessed with ana digi watches from the 1980's! I really dig the style for some reason. I was looking on ebay in the low price ranges and I found this little nugget for the princely sum of $5.70 - the shipping from Peru was an inflated $20 AUD - so I got away with it for under $30. It came well packed in a little padded envelope. It was missing the back, had severe damage, but I didn't see any rust stains on the back. A view from the side It is a Seiko H127A-5000 - the year could be between 1979 and 1980 - there is a little bit of info around the internet. The case back will be an insanely rare part to find so I may have to CNC mill something or potentially 3d print a plastic back. That is if I can get it working. The Crystal is trash. I've tried sanding it, will wait till I have some crystal polish - I haven't had much luck polishing mineral crystals. A new crystal is around $35 - with OEM Seiko writing. I removed the movement and soaked it in WD40 to loosen all the bolts. It was too seized to attempt opening. The LCD panel/dial has a crack in it. The sub assembly appears clean, the zebra strips on the LCD were a bit gummed up but cleaned up. Happily the analogue movement was turning over freely, it wasn't ticking - but likely due to so much grit and much on the contacts. The only corrosion was on the rotor, and some of the non important chrome plated parts. I've soaked them in shellite. Cleaned with blutac and then inspected under microscope. Everything appears fine. It is a very high end movement with 8 jewels and all metal parts - it would have been top of the line back in the day. Very tiny parts. The main circuit board is out - my it looks complicated. Simple plain jane movement - nothing fancy: It's all inside: The bridge is off and the rotor is next to the movement: Cleaning the case: Tonight I have finished cleaning everything - I have put it into my movement parts tray - awaiting some time after work tommorow. If anyone knows how the LCD works please let me know - is the display in the top dial section? Or the next layer down? There is a white mirror presumably to reflect the light off the screen as this is the black model version (there were two models). Parts look pricey and rare - I've found a dial panel NOS - also crystals online. May have to look for circuit board if its fried - Can't find any bracelets - may have to go non OEM generic steel band. Goal is to get it running - if its not running - atleast to be a show piece in my cabinet. More soon
  27. 2 points
    Usluyan

    Hello from Istanbul!

    Hello everyone, I am a begineer watchmaker in Istanbul. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Thin Spring Washer

    Donald deCarle’s books are a pretty good start Practical watch repairing is pretty old, but is a contemporary of the watches many of us work on. The dial washer you have there looks a bit mashed. It should be gently curled along one diametral axis and fitted this way up: http://ticktickticktick.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/flieger-08-e1398649245424.jpg
  29. 2 points
    RyMoeller

    A Couple of 7002 Seiko Divers

    Friends and family have taken an interest in some of the watches I've serviced and since they've only known Quartz pieces I thought I'd fix something up for them for the holidays. So I purchased a couple of Seiko divers a few weeks back off of eBay with the intent of getting them back into spec. One came from the Philippines and the other India and both were in a bad way based on the sellers' images. The first (from the Philippines) turned out to be a pretty good deal as it the entire movement and case was salvageable. It was nothing special to look at the start, that's for sure, but it will spiff up pretty nice in the end. Unfortunately, the picture here (in the condition it arrived) hides the fact that one of the dial feet has gone missing. The correct solution to this problem is to solder the foot back in place but me being a fool with a soldering iron I opted for a strong two part epoxy instead. The dial may or may not be original but it's in fair shape and needs only to have the luminous paint removed and reapplied (I've not done this before so we'll see how it goes). The hands will be polished and replated as they are a real mess. The movement is in excellent shape and has sprung back to life with a proper cleaning. The only part of that endeavor which was out of the norm was the removal of "dial glue" from the movement with a bit of acetone. I'm currently just awaiting the replacement bezel insert and a new 2.25mm watch crystal to finish this up. Unfortunately the watch from India- well that was a whole 'other story! It was clear right off the bat that there was an issue with the dial as it sits crooked in the case. I thought this was the result of another missing dial foot but it was much worse than that- both feet are missing although it may not have mattered because the wrong movement was in the case as well. The diver should have a 7002 (17 Jewel Automatic with Date) movement but instead has a 7019 (21 Jewel, Automatic, Day-Date) fitted. Close examination revealed a bit of (ahem) over-oiling? Just when you think you've seen the worst case of excess lubrication in a watch movement a new case comes along. I'm still only about halfway through this repair so I'll follow-up with some images as they come. With the dial feet lost and the dial bathed in thick oil, I considered it a lost cause and proceeded unafraid with a cleansing using isopropyl alcohol- it actually cleaned up fairly nice but will need quite a bit of work to be considered "good enough" for daily use. Some foolish person apparently tried to remove the lime using car keys or some such tool and scratched the dial terribly. (sigh) I've since finished servicing the 7019 movement although the mainspring had failed and I'm not certainly I'll bother with a replacement as the movement will probably just be flipped to offset the cost of the proper 7002 movement. More to come soon...
  30. 2 points
    rogart63

    Omega 1345 stepper motor.

    Why demagnitize quartz movements . Think that is a bad advice? The risk of destroying something is high. The stepper motor has magnets inside like a electric motor. If the get demagnitized it's caput. besides there is a very little wheel on the stepper motor that easily breaks. High speed could kill it faster then a blink of an eye.
  31. 2 points
    noirrac1j

    Need help with hands

    You can bend the tips of the hour hand slightly to clear the chrono hand, or you can also take a fine-cut file and reduce the height of the stem a little so that is doesn't interfer. You can bend the hands while still on the watch with brass tweezers. Be careful not to slip and scratch the dial. J
  32. 2 points
    So I did the experiment - a 'cycle' in my small ultrasonic, about 3 mins with the pallet in isopropanol. As you can see, there's no noticeable loss in shellac.
  33. 2 points
    jdm

    Watch of Today

    Wrecked and worked on these a lot in the 80s. No, not the Seiko, I mean the PX Vespa's
  34. 2 points
    Ishima

    Cant adjust time

    Check the position of the caseback, if it's crooked or upside down or anything like that then the groove inside isn't lining up with the stem and that can cause issues like this. Consider having a watch technician maintain this watch in the future.
  35. 2 points
    Marc

    Cannon pinion on an old watch (again)

    I think you may find that this is an old style tapered canon pinion with a central shaft that needs to be driven out from the front. Have a looks here and you will see what I mean; http://www.zipworld.com.au/~dazb/horo/oldStyleCP/CannonPinion.html
  36. 2 points
    TimFitz

    Back to work

    This is just a photo of my Illinois 12s P/W movement just after a good cleaning, now a new mainspring & staff then it's ready to go. I just thought it was a great picture just befor bed last night
  37. 2 points
    Probably need to go deeper in. The rotor could have found some magnetic particles and making it stuck. It's a good thing it stutters as it probably just need a good clean.
  38. 2 points
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  39. 2 points
    Mark

    Watch Repair Course - Price

    Hi, If you click on any of the products on this page the price is listed https://www.watchrepairlessons.com/shop/ The bundle is the best value. If you have any further questions please let me know on the contact us page
  40. 2 points
    Sopgeo

    Russian watch , crown problem

    I think you need to check it is actually broken first. Vostok Amfibia use a rather clever clutch so the crown is only engaged with the movement when changing the time. They are meant to wobble around like they are broken. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  41. 2 points
    fireftr45

    Mainspring winder for Seiko 7S26

    Thank you all!!! I am finding out that Seiko has discontinued making a lot of these mainsprings for 7S, 4R, 6R. I guess they just want you to buy a new movement. So a generic spring will most likely have to be sourced. They don't even sell the barrel complete anymore. (or I just haven't found a viable source yet) I have gotten a little frustrated lately, as I started purchasing spring winders from ebay. The first turned out to be a pocket watch spring winder that is too deep and the spring winds up in a ball. The second set I bought was an adjustable K&D 123, A & B, that fits the barrel but the right winding knob has the nib that grabs the spring hole worn off, so it won't wind. I am still very new to this. This is the first spring I am trying to wind up and it has been a source of stress so far. The spring has gotten kinked several times so I just decided to keep practicing on it till the tail broke off last night. I will say I almost had it once, but when trying to get the spring to let go of the knob, as I removed the winder knob the spring popped out. I suppose I could just keep trying to find a newer knob for the 123A, but I am gravitating towards spending more for the Bergeon and be done with it. My thinking is I could always add new drums one at a time as needed over time (as I don't have $1K+ to drop on a whole set). Well again Thank You all for your help. I will keep trying.
  42. 2 points
    Ishima

    Mainspring winder for Seiko 7S26

    I had to service my Seiko, same callibre, worked the mainspring by hand. If you haven't seen this, keep in mind the barrel lid comes off a little differently to normal barrels, as shown.
  43. 2 points
    chadders1966

    Silicone Grease (For Gaskets)

    Back to your original question I don't really see you can do anything about it anyway if Cousins are insisting it is silicone. Interesting point you raise though about KT-22. Bergeon don't say their version is silicone, I have some from an American company that doesn't mention silicone and it certainly doesn't look like silicone. Yet both Cousins and Walshs call it silicone (well, Walshs call it silicon for some reason). Makes me wonder if the word is being used incorrectly to mean gasket grease or something like that? Stephen
  44. 2 points
    Ishima

    ISO Swiss VS Cousins Watch gaskets

    That's a tough one, I have every confidence with my battery replacement reseals in cousins gaskets, and the servicing i do on mechanical watches at this stage of my career tends to be on old watches that are splash proof at best anyway, so I don't think about that much. If you're working on modern expensive modern autos that are 50m and up, and you're promising them resealed then it might just be worth the extra expense, (If its quartz it will need to be resealed with the next battery change in a couple of years anyway, so dont worry) I dont think anything would come back to you in any time frame that you could take responsibility for, but given that some of these watches go a decade without anyone looking at them, the customer might find 8 years after the service they jump into a pool and it floods, now obviously thats not really your fault or responsibility, even if it could have been theoretically prevented with an expensive gasket that would degrade more slowly, you cant promise people that their watch will be waterproof for a decade without maintenance. so it shouldn't cause you any problems, but perhaps more of an ethical consideration for the owners of the watches and what they might face way off down the line and whether that hypothetical situation would cause you to lose any sleep. To answer more directly, as chopin says they're a bit better, but not 8 times better.
  45. 1 point
    BTW, I did manage to anneal an Elgin mainspring and fold the end over and and fit it into the Peck mainspring barrel. This was my first true mainspring mod work. Used an alcohol lamp and pliers. And I was very careful. I'm a bit pissed at the number broken jewels in this movement, but it is 1890 vintage Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    sm4100

    Greetings from Brazil

    Hi, Marco here from Santo Andre - Sao Paulo, I am new to horology, I have been involved with automotive mechanics for nearly 3 decades and used to repair everything at home on my own but always felt challenged by mechanical watches, so now I am very keen to develop watchmaking skills for the long term hobby/retirement job. I have already overhauled 8 watches, some old pieces just to study and develop the skills so I am still in the very first steps and will appreciate any given advice here. Cheers!
  47. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Waltham Vanguard Pocket watch not winding

    Looking up the serial number of your waltham Vanguard Is a model 1892. The problem with waltham and the model numbers are there way too many variations. As I'm not finding a nice picture of the setting parts to explain what's going on we will look at the parts catalog which you should find quite confusing. So the stem goes into part number 1629 Winding arbor the larger end Then impossible to see in the drawing the middle section is square. Then part number 1634 Winding setting clutch for lever set slides on the square part. Then this part engages 1632 the winding pinion. This is underneath a crown wheel part number 1619 missing from this image. So this would all be relatively simple except this is a waltham. So the key part is 1634 It has to slide smoothly on the square part that rides on. So for instance if this watch hasn't been serviced in 1 million years the grease gets sticky it doesn't move. So on one end it's used for setting the watch the other end winding the watch. Then I've attached another image with text we also need something called a Shipper and the proper associated shipper spring. So if you look at the images the shipper has a protruding part that goes into the groove found on 1634. Then lever doesn't control this directly it uses the shipping spring. Then the shipper spring is also used when the watches in winding position to hold the parts 1634 with 1632 and the spring part allows you to wind the watch backwards in the parts slide because they give here thanks to the spring. So it's really understand any of this the dial has to come off. Then additional images unhelpful as it's not lever setting newer setting talking about the parts. Then crown wheel with winding pinion See how they go together. But you can also see the teeth on the end that engage with the winding setting clutch wheel 1634. This is where you can see that turning in one direction wind the watch turning the other direction they slip. Then other than guessing like the watch hasn't been serviced in a long time or the shipper spring is broken or damaged or not in the right place basically now the dial has to come off. Then as you new to watch repair I would find something else to practice on as the deeper into the watch you go as a newbie more like Undesirable things will occur. The Vanguard is usually considered a nicer watch so I wouldn't consider it a beginner's learning watch. Then hopefully this makes sense I would do so much better if I had a picture. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/waltham/18130706
  48. 1 point
    Quartz watches like this have similar characteristics to mechanical watches. Specifically they have gears that rotate. Unlike mechanical watches Quarts watches have way less power. This means the gear trains have to be very clean ideally with the proper lubrication should be used and they really do need to be cleaned like a mechanical watch from time to time. Then when the movements out of the case you have to be very careful to keep it away from everything one little speck of dust in the wrong place and the watch will stop. Then the rotor with its really strong magnetic field likes to attract steel particles equally as bad They actually make a device to generate a magnetic field the spin the rotor this is really a temporary fix. Just as removing the balance wheel and pallet fork from a mechanical watch and letting the gear train spin is not a substitute for cleaning and proper lubrication. You do have to be careful with the demagnetizer because it is designed to demagnetized things and if you try really really hard you can demagnetized a rotor. Then parts list attached plus service guide. 8222A,8223A,8229A.pdf 8229A.pdf
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    JerseyMo

    1975 Timex Dynabeat - Basic Restore

    Here we have a 1975 Dynabeat that cones from the Electric series Timex produced. I'll start with the basic case tear down and preparation of cleaning. Remove bezel ring, crown\stem, and crystal. Next pull hands and remove dial. Notice that these dials have tabs so care must be take not to over bend them. For this I used a modified 45 degree Xacto blade which I'v added a notch to on the tip. Place the edge of the blade at angle to tab and back the tab with you finger. Lift slowly and move to next tab. Notice that one tab is very close to the balance wheel. This is where I use the notched tip. Continue to remove the components under the dial. Be careful with the date wheel detent spring as it very thin and bends easily. Now comes the step that many will find interesting or get a laugh over. But, I tell you it works more times than not. The idea behind this is to clean oxidation off the contact wire that bushes against the staff. It also helps remove dried oil and other debris out of the movement. I use a very high tech tool next to blow air to help dry the cleaner up. "Okay so its just a cheap balloon pump". Next another tool I made up that is most helpful. After dotting any pivots both top and bottom, I dab some oil to the train gears just next to the battery compartment. Refit the stem, press down on a fresh battery and give the balance a flick. Sometimes it takes a few but this one went off with just one. clean and buff the outer parts, freshen up the hands, put it all back together. There are some steps I left out and will add in future posting. So what was the first thing that failed? If you said the sweep fell off you would be right. Why it fell off is because I forgot to tamp down the hole to be sure it fit tight again. its has since been corrected and the watch is humming nicely. Thanks for looking.