Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    JBerry

    Unitas 6497 Custom Watch

    Hey folks, I'd like to share a watch I put together for my Brother's birthday. The movement is a pretty old Unitas 6497 which I picked up from the widow of a watchmaker a year or so back, the plates have been skeletonised and I'm pretty sure this was a once off job by the watchmaker. The mainplate is brass, and the decorated bridge plates appear to have been plated (quite crudely, when inspected under a loupe). The movement is keeping great time now that it is serviced. I made an attempt at a logo using the film-free transfer technique Mark has used in a couple of recent Youtube videos. The logo didn't adhere very well to the dial, not particularly happy with it. In person and to the naked eye it looks pretty good I think. The case is a 41mm case I picked up from Ofrei, who I sourced the dial and hands from also. Hope ye like it!
  2. 6 points
    RyMoeller

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  3. 4 points
    margolisd

    Laser Printed Decal

    I've been working on this for a while. My wife's due to give birth any day now and this is what I'm going to give her after the baby is born. This is my first attempt at restoring a dial. HSL was kind enough to send me a spare one to practice on. Which I did, and it ended up being the final one I used. What was also interesting, I attempted Mark's laser printed logo method.Which worked surprisingly well. The edges of the print aren't quite as sharp as the original. But you would have to have a very expert eye to tell the difference. I think with a very high DPI laser printer you could get this more or less perfect.
  4. 3 points
    So the time has come to do a small tutorial on how one could assemble an own noname Watch out of parts harvested from the deepest coners of the web. I took a look in my drawers and after a stiff G&T I decided there might be parts enought to make a try. This should not be looked as the final solution but rather as a complement to Everything else created out there. The tutorial is a 50+ page Collection of Pictures and Words in a PDF format which makes it possible to read it offline too. The Pictures are mine original works so you could even use it as a slideshow at your next Company party! The result from mine attemt looks Little like this.. How to assemble your own watch.pdf
  5. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Unusual Incabloc

    Agree with all above. If you decide to remove the endstone assembly, soak in naphta for a day or use penetrating oil on the screws, leave oil to soak-in over night. Sharpen a screwdriver to perfect fit, place the cock on a hard flat surface, press rather hard on the screwdriver, if it dosn,t unscrew easy, soak more. These little screws get stripped easy.
  6. 3 points
    PeterS

    eta 900

    Maybe the crown wheel ring? Try whether it fits on the crown wheel post and if it does see whether the crown wheel fits on it.
  7. 3 points
    I read the thread now properly and see that you already done a build. My offer stands if Nucejoe needs a escape wheel . Have one that looks okay .
  8. 3 points
    Here’s a tip for those of you who shop from CousinsUK.com! Cousins have a strict policy when it comes to returns, and if you wish to shop from them you must approve of these terms. However, don’t automatically assume it’s no use to get in touch with them if you feel that something has gone wrong. In my experience Cousins are always willing to listen to your arguments with an objective and humble attitude. My experience with Cousins’ service, prices, and treatment are really the best!
  9. 3 points
    The lift angle is not the issue one side of the beat is not correct. It could be a loose impulse jewel, a loose pallet jewel, a dirty pallet jewel or a dirty escape wheel. My first effort to resolve this is to check the pallet jewels for damage and tightness and if OK I would just clean again and lubricate again. Its amazing how the smallest amount of unwanted dirt can effect the performance. On a side note I very rarely bother to adjust the lift angle setting on the timographer unless I suspect it is way out. A smooth pattern on both sides of the beat and a decent amplitude is my goal.
  10. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    More HMT goodness. A quick service and a polish, and a new light tan band brought this sunflower yellow faced beauty back to life. I thought I had all of the scratches out of the crystal, but there is still one little one that caught the sunlight at the 7 O'clock marker. I'm going to have to remove the crystal anyway, to get at the "history" trapped between it and the case, so I'll have another crack at getting it perfect then.
  11. 3 points
    Wanting to do a bearing replacement on a nice Boley Leinen ww-83 I picked up recently, nicklesilver gave me the idea of using angular contact bearings instead of deep groove bearings. AC's need a way of preloading them and need to be installed adjacent to one another or with precision spacers between them. I splurged for the expensive p4's and while they are the right diameters, they're thicker than the OEM deep groove bearing so I had to make both spacers. I bought universal matches AC's so if I ground the spacers exactly the same, it should be the right preload. So far so good, but it did seem like the preload was almost a tad heavy. The groove in the outer spacer is for a felt oil wick Drive. As nice as this lathe is, the drive was terrible. Basically a universal motor with a great big rheostat, yuck. I had a consew motor (variable speed servo) that I moved from below the bench to the back and connecting it to a jack shaft bolted to the bench. I took the brushes out of the motor so its also just a jackshaft, er, flywheel. I made a control box so I can switch between rheostat control of the motor and foot control - you want both for different ops. Its actually a better arrangement as the Consew is mounted on an adjacent bench so zero vibration reaches the lathe. I'm stuck with the hole in the bench....have to 3d print some tool tray thing and make it look intentional. I've 1/2 a dozen watchmakers lathes, each one has something unique, so the idea is they're out of the way in a cupboard but can be placed in front of the jackshaft and set to running in seconds....keeps the bench less crowded and I only have to have one drive. This one has the rare thread cutting attachment, which even has tumbler! To use it though, I'll have to rig up a toggle reverse switch (the consew is a bit of a pita to reverse) I replaced the bearings in the motor and counter shafts as well, stripped and repainted and installed the new p4 spindle bearings. Not shown is a full set of change gears, milling spindle and second 3 way slide rest. I think I'm having too much fun big headstock.....little headstock
  12. 3 points
    I think the best option would be looking for a supplier of jewels for industrial purposes there are plenty about: http://www.true-point.co.uk/ the above supplier has jewels in the range of sizes you would require.
  13. 3 points
    barkerka

    Thanks Mark! Now I have a problem

    After receiving a watch from a WWII Veteran Uncle, I sent it out for a repair estimate.. I was shocked the price and decided I need to learn to do it myself. I didn't dare just jump in, so after watching dozens of Mark's videos I purchased a similar watch from eBay for practice.... it was a real learning exercise.. I learned what tools were good, best, and better. Which vendors to call for parts, and what was really needed to do a proper service and repair... Needless to say, I got my Uncle's watch running and wear it with pride. It was a long cold winter and I kept myself busy with all of that new gained knowledge and growing experience... I have attached a few photos of where I have gotten... I have cleaned, oiled and timed every single one... taken off the old straps and found original new old stock, or period correct straps to make them authentic. Some I left with patina, other cleaned up to near minty condition. Out of the 50-odd watches all but 3 or 4 keep time with a few seconds a day. I had so much fun learning that I started looking for more projects by cleaning out the local swap meets and pawn shops of their WWII watches (mostly Elgin, Waltham, Bulova, and Hamilton).. now I have a few extras and I owe it all to Mark. Thanks Mark! Now if I can get my work bench cleaned off I can get started working on my Willys Jeep transmission rebuild....
  14. 3 points
    No one has any insight on this vise? Any old time watch/clock makers around that might know about it on this board? At any rate, the refurbish is finished, thought you guys/gals might like to see it. You can see more pics and read a little on the history of G. Boley and Company on my blog HERE.
  15. 3 points
    I would like to see some phots first of the movement including the balance before I comment further. There is a screw called a “stop-up” screw, which was built into the model 21 chronometer by Hamilton. This screw was used to block the train wheels for transport. This screw was often removed during service. Does yours still have it?
  16. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Screwdriver Sharpening Tools

    I don't think I have enough axes to grind to justify the cost.
  17. 3 points
    My advice is this. Whenever you are about to start on a new mechanical watch repair, make sure all your screwdrivers and tweezers and other tools you might use are de-magnetised. It is also good practice to de-magnetise the watch movement before attempting any repair. It will also save you time.
  18. 2 points
    rduckwor

    Carbon mainsprings

    Nothing special about winding a carbon steel spring other than the fact that they may break especially if old and set. The center eye that fits the arbor is probably sprung on this old spring and since it is a scrap movement, you should take your round nose pliers and practice closing it a bit. Go gently and in small increments. if you can successfully close the center eye without breaking it, it should then fit a MS winder very nicely. RMD
  19. 2 points
    Nucejoe

    Carbon mainsprings

    Just tighten the spring for better grip on arbor. Can be wound in manually, rinse and grease afterwards, start from outer coils to wind in.Greasing wont be as thorough but hardly the end of the world. Wear protective gogles. I assume it is manual wind.
  20. 2 points
    HSL

    watch case

    Sounds like you bought an generic chinese dial, it has four feets so you can fit it to several movements, for example if you want to use it with an ETA you leave the one between 2 & 3 and the one between 8 & 9 and cut of the rest. Then you can use it with for example an ETA 2824-2 or a clone of that movement. After the weekends sometime I will make an PDF tutorial in how to assemble your own watch and what to think about before doing it, maybe it might help you
  21. 2 points
    manodeoro

    Watch of Today

    You should prepare a very "thin" lume with water based medium and apply on several thin coats. I have some dials to relume next month so I'll take some pics on every step. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  22. 2 points
    As mentioned above, the 2824-2 lift angle is 50°, see attached document. Many people makes no distinction between 2824 and 2824-2, which are different in that and few other details. _C_T_CT_2824-2_FDE_481688_24.pdf
  23. 2 points
    There's a big list here: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/lift_angle In it the 2824 is listed as 53º, and 2824-2 as 50º
  24. 2 points
    If there's no feasible way to get the cap off I would strongly recommend against pegwooding the hole. If your wood breaks you're humped. And it do break.
  25. 2 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    Lovely Rajat right there Andy. On the Yellow theme. I've shown this one before but this one accompanied me as a second watch for my summer hols with my son.
  26. 2 points
    24h

    D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

    I find a smaller piezo to be a little better. Here I've attached a .zip file containing two comparisons between 27mm and 12mm piezos from an 18000 bph and 21600 bph movement. Hope that helps! 27mm_vs_12mm_Piezo.zip
  27. 2 points
    watchweasol

    General clock related question.

    Hi I have attached the pics of the amplifier setup I dont know if the radioshack telephone amplifier is available in the UK any more but there must be others that will work, With the loss of Tandy and Maplins these sort of bits are hard to come by, Might get them off the net .
  28. 2 points
    balaton

    Can you ID this movement ?

    Made from parts of varied and indeterminate parentage. Usually, but not always, applied to dogs. Regards.
  29. 2 points
    balaton

    Can you ID this movement ?

    Hi, The movement appears to be the savonette version of the 11''' Langerdorf/Lanco 1 which probably goes back to the 1920s. As others have stated, it is clearly not original to your watch as Fero used pin-lever movements from Baumgartner, Brac, EB and possibly others. Regards.
  30. 2 points
    Thanks MrRoundel. It's a candy blue over silver metallic base, clear coat overall. It's a high temp, oil, gas resistant finish. According to a German Watch historical museum the G. Boley vises are suppose to be a very precise parallel vise. They made a rotating base for the C60 and I've only seen one with it, which was on eBay. I didn't know if the Google translation of the German site is correct, if so then what I was referring to as a removable anvil is called a "saddle". Now restored I can tell you it's as smooth as silk. Just a beautifully made vise. I hope to make a couple add on jaws for it such as a felt set and a poly set that clip on using the detents on the side of the existing jaws. If not magnets.. lol I'm not into restoring vises per say, I have a few that were discarded, or left heading to the landfill such as this Boley C60 was. To me it's just a waste to throw them away when a little effort can bring something back and in some cases I can improve it and put it back in service. Saving the planet one project at a time. You guys here would have salivated over all the watch and clock repair tools and stuff that got tossed out of this unit where this vise came from. Very sad... I was there last person in asked to clean it up some. This and a couple other small items were all I could salvage. They destroyed most of the rest. A clock/watch repair man's entire life discarded after his passing. At least this vise is still around. And I left some of the marks he made in it just because. Restored it should last another 100 or so years if cared for properly. Still hoping to date it. Going to write the German museum to see if they can help in that regard. Cheers..
  31. 2 points
    Nucejoe

    USA East Coast Watch Repair Pro ?

    Let see if we can get Mark lovic to service them, wouldn,t hurt to ask. I think he just may want to make a video( lesson) out of it. Just a thought.
  32. 2 points
    wls1971

    Longevity of Leather bands

    I've always used Hirch straps they are very hard wearing and at around £25.00 for a padded one I think they are good value and I can get a good few years from one and a good range of styles available and their straps for fixed wire strap bars are very good. I do not think you would get any longer use out of the extortionately priced manufactures straps such as Omega and Breitling with prices starting at £200.00 even if it lasted 5 years you could still have many many years worth of straps at a fraction of the price of one branded strap they are another way of extracting money from the gullible.
  33. 2 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this very clean Longines dress watch with an L847.3 movement
  34. 2 points
    Tmuir

    Refitting a loose Chronograph Hand

    My son today gave me his Seiko Quartz Chronograph that he wears to school with the second Chronograph hand rattling around behind the glass. He tells me it just fell off, but I suspect the watch took a bit more of a harder blow as the minute hand and the large second hand were also knocked out of alignment and interfering with each other. This watch I had given my son a year or so ago after I had used it for one of my projects for my watch class and when I got it the chronograph hand had been loose and I had to tighten it up, so I wasn't overly surprised it had fallen off again. The easiest way to tighten a loose hand if to fit it into the end of a good quality pin vice and do it up so it is just touching the tube and then tighten it a few more degrees so it slightly crimps the tube. You then take it off and check and if still too loose repeat. I did this and the first time it was still too loose and fell back off, crimped it some more and it was still too loose, crimped it a third time and yes you can guess it I did it too tight and now it would not fit. If you do this you then need to broach it back out. I'm lucky in that I have a full set of watchmakers broaches that were my grandfathers so I had one small enough. I held the chronograph hand in my vintage hand pliers and broached it out ever so slightly, checked it was still too tight, so broached it some more and it was a perfect fit. Here is the watch with the hand fitted back on. It was the second hand sitting beside 9. I'm unsure exactly how small the broach was I used, but for comparison here it is next to the tip on my 0.6mm screwdriver and I only used the first 1/3 of the broach This is definitely the smallest hole that I have ever broached out and I'm pleased it worked so well. My son has his watch back so he is also pleased.
  35. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Your very first watch ?

    I have a similar one but with a cowboy! Somewhere I have a cowgirl too. It is indeed the pallet fork that gives the motion. My first watch was a Frogger watch, followed by a first gen G Shock. Then a quartz Seiko diver, and finally got an Omega automatic just before I went to watchmaking school. I didn't want to show up with a quartz.
  36. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Re-pivoting a clock wheels.

    The Rollimat is a wonderful tool and more than pays for itself in a few months in a professional situation. It uses the same carbide burnishing wheel as industrial machines that finishes clock (and watch) pivots in the factory. Totally an "auto jacot" tool. That guy has a good technique there, and agree with OH it can be done with simpler tools. I know a number of clock and watchmakers though who have the "tool bug" and enjoy finding and using machines most regular shops would find overkill. In some cases they do save time but not necessarily do a better job; part of the fun is just using them.
  37. 2 points
    So - That's it... I hope someone gets some information and maybe, a little pleasure from reading this series of posts. These Nationals are likely to become increasingly rare, especially working examples, as it seems a certain generation of older watchmakers are disposing of their ancient equipment. Or more likely, and sadly, the descendants of older watchmakers and repairers dispose of their loved one's estates and wonder what can be done with this heavy old bit of junk in Grandad's shed... I really enjoyed working on this old machine and putting it back into useful service as my own, hobbyists watch cleaner. As well learning a little bit about the business of Mr Saul Lanzetter and his National brand and some of the patents in his name, which may or may not, have led to many such machines and their derivatives being sold all over the world. All that remains now, is to find a watch of mine that is next in line for a strip down, fix, clean and rebuild and put this little machine back into productive service. To that end, I'm waiting for the new 7750 video by Mark due anytime now. Ok - now where exactly did I put that tired old Valjoux 7750 when I cleared the decks for this old thing?
  38. 2 points
    A video maybe... (if my upload works) It's not often these machines turn up, and less often they turn up working, so I feel justified. No commentary, just the noise of the machine itself. Dunno how it will sound to you, but right in front of me, its nice a quiet and completely unobtrusive. I start from switched off, turn it on, advance the control to what I think is likely to be normal for use in liquids. Finally turning off. Sorry - Francis Ford Coppola I'm not! IMG_1572.m4v
  39. 2 points
    The "After" Shot. So - here it is after the work was done. I think it is a sympathetic restoration and I have tried to maintain the original look and function of the machine and have kept all of the real replacements out of sight. It looks well to my mind whilst still managing to wear it's age well. TESTING Speed control - easily controllable, steady speed when set. The new controller does have a different operating range than the old one. The new controller (when the power switch is ON) provides a minimum of 30 volts to the motor. This is not enough to move it in any visible way. Advancing the controller till the motor begins to move and I measured around 130 volts at the controller output. A slow and steady rotation happens when the control is further advanced and the output at this point is around 150 volts. Around 160 to 175 volts is needed to obtain a steady rotation at around the operational "washing" speed. This seems about right as the motor will rarely (if ever) be operated flat out. Over all speeds, the motor exhibits no detectable RF interference, according to my RF Test gear, so I'm guessing the new controller is well suppressed as standard, and the motor itself is not noisy. The heater was also measured for surface heat temperature and self-regulation. Essentially I just turned it on and measured it over a period of around 15 minutes. The surface temperature quickly reaches around 170C to 180C (after about 5 minutes), and seems to maintain that temperature fairly steadily, not really varying by more than about 10 degrees. Hot enough to burn yourself if you touch it, but well out of the way with the "tunnel" installed. Heat at the top of the tunnel was estimated to be no more than around 45 degrees (rising air temperature) with the tunnel itself remaining cool to touch over a test period of 20 minutes. My recommendation would be to turn the heater on when you start the first wash and it will be ready for you when needed at the end of the second rinse.
  40. 2 points
    I think you made a great purchase, and yes, I admit bias. They are very robust machines that have already lasted likely over 60 to 70 years, and with a bit of TLC, should keep on going and providing useful service. Your machine looks to have the separate on/off switch for the speed control, which mine does not have, but is still identified as a Model 1, as is mine. Yours has a much better makers plate on the front than mine, so maybe has not has as much use. Hopefully then, yours will have plenty of life left in it. For cleaning fluids, I’m going to go with something very original. I have yet to find out exactly what the National recommended fluids consisted of, but are likely to be similar to what I am going to use. Now I know this risks “many” opinions from others as to what their particular recommendations are, and I respect that. But, all I am going to say is, this was always good enough for Elma, so it’s good enough for me, at least to get me started as a hobbyist. I will likely only do one cleaning a week and not on a commercial basis, so this will do nicely. For the first wash, I plan to use Elma 1:9 cleaner which, as it is named, is diluted 1 part cleaner, to nine parts tap water. Elma themselves say that tap water is OK as the formulation allows for this. For the first rinse, I will use de-ionised water, again in line with recommendations from Elma when using the sequence described. Final rinse will be Elma Suprol. Followed by a spin-off and then heat drying. I have not found any instructions for the National yet, but as these machines are all so generic, the Elma Instructions for the Super Elite, should easily work well for both the sequence, timings and cleaning fluids. (They are described in the attached instructions.) Others will also have their opinions as well, so we can always experiment to find out what works best in our own situations. I have uploaded the Elma instructions in full, which are freely available for download direct from Elma, Cousins and Walsh, so I do not believe there should be any copyright issues as long as they are reproduced in full. I’m looking forward to hearing about your National when you have time, and I hope That my ramblings here help out in some way, to get yours back into productive use. Instructions For HC511 - Elma Super Elite Watch Cleaning Machine.pdf
  41. 2 points
    david

    tools for newbs?

    Trigus, Watchmaker screwdriver shafts are skinny for a reason. It is to reduce the force transmitted from your fingers and thumb to the screwdriver tip. The screws used in watches are very tiny and can be easily overpowered and broken.. Trying to use a pin vice could present problems from applying too much torque to the screw, twisting it in half. Breaking a screw off in a watch plate can be a disastrous problem as you may not be able to get the broken piece of screw out of the plate. Most inexpensive watch screwdrivers are usable, especially when starting out. You can start out with a less expensive set and upgrade at a later time.
  42. 2 points
    CaptCalvin

    seiko question

    I have separated the HS from balance on these a few times. Side note these almost never come out of the box properly centered as you can see in the first pic out of a freshly bought movement.
  43. 2 points
    balaton

    Watch of Today

    37.5mm Swiss-made Stuag, wears very flat and runs on a 17j ETA 900. Probably late ‘40s. Attributed to one of the few female (is that term still allowed these days?) -led watch manufacturers, Mlle Mireille Grebler (later Mme Mireille Franz-Grebler) who also came to control Cauny, before that particular brand became Spanish owned sometime in the 1970s. Regards.
  44. 2 points
    Hi all, I've finally put my foot through the door of the world of chronographs, and I got an excellent deal on a gold cased Luxor chronograph with a Landeron 248 movement. The dial looks perfect, so perfect at such a price I assume it was either redialed or a miracle occurred when my offer was accepted. The only flaw to the watch is the second recorder resets to about 1 -2 minutes past 12, every time. I thought initially the second hand just needed adjustment, until I noticed the minute recorder will advance a minute when the second recorder crosses midnight exactly, but still resets at 1-2 past 12. This means a recorded minute is actually 58ish seconds. So adjusting the second hand won't solve this problem, and I'm very curious what about this movement syncs these two registers. If anyone has advice, it would be appreciated.
  45. 2 points
    You really cannot skimp on a watch fitting glass tool. You need to have one that you can trust and get the repair done without worrying about is it going to work. The cheap tools will not do a good job, they do not fit properly, and they break, not lined up and will not last long. Buy the best and it will last a lifetime. I had many including the Robur. It is necessary have tool.
  46. 2 points
    Not a complete watch ... Just a dial but a really nice old 5500 one Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  47. 2 points
    RyMoeller

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I spent quite a bit of time with it today (about six hours), extracting the rusted shaft of the screw for the Sliding Gear Spring, polishing the other screws, and repairing the Center Wheel and I finally have the base movement back together. The Mainspring was in fine shape, so I reused it. Other than the Center Wheel, the pivots in the going train were untouched by rust. Again, this was a relief because sourcing the various bits of the going train just may be impossible One of the interesting features of an Excelsior Park movement is the Fourth Wheel/Chronograph Driving Wheel arrangement. In most chronographs the Fourth Wheel has an extended pivot that the Chronograph Driving Wheel is mounted on- it's usually a friction fitted. Excelsior Park instead designed a double-decker arrangement where the Fourth Wheel and Chronograph Driving Wheel are both permanently mounted on the same pinion. A separate cock secures the wheel(s) to the Main Plate. Another thing I really like about this movement is how the milled springs and small bridges have little "clover leafs" that extend outward from the edges. These leaves fit into cutouts in the plate and that ensures the bridges and springs are always oriented just right before you screw them down. You can see the leaves extending from the edge of the Pallet Bridge in the picture below. Little things like this also catch my eye- the cap jewels have a small circular trough cut into the bottom of the jewel. I just can't wrap my mind around how that's accomplished with such precision. It took quite a bit of time to get the base movement back together. The plates went through the cleaner multiple times and much elbow grease was needed to remove the rust damage. The screw for the Sliding Gear Spring took about two hours to extract this morning. A lot of other screws were cleaned up with the help of the lathe too. In the end, I don't think I'll have to replace many. The Balance Assembly got quite a lot of attention too. The hairspring was fouled with bits of rust and other muck that must have been carried in by the water that caused all the rust damage. It was cleaned with lighter fluid and a steady hand then went through the cleaner with the top and bottom plate this morning. I do like the design of the entire escapement in this movement also. Excelsior Park movements are some of the earliest Swiss movements I've seen to use an adjustable stud for the hairspring- this makes beat error adjustment quite simple. Here we have a screwless Balance Wheel too and one with an Breguet hairspring. All good stuff. In order to test the movement I needed to assemble the keyless works as well. There's a lot of scarring here but I was able to reuse everything but the Stem. So I finished the day by giving the movement a good wind and popping it on the Timegrapher- Mind you that's the reading at full wind in one position but it's a good starting point.
  48. 2 points
    Can't wait to add this beauty to my DS collection that will arrive from Germany in next week i hope!
  49. 2 points
    Marc

    As 1802/03 too slow despite serviced

    Some parts are interchangeable between calibres in the same model family and some aren't. The Jules Borel web site has a very useful facility for working out what parts will fit what movements. http://cgi.julesborel.com/ The beat rate of a movement is determined by the balance assembly and is primarily a function of the inertia of the balance wheel (determined by the size and mass of the wheel) and the length and strength of the hair spring. It is a specific design feature of any given movement. So I happen to have an 1803 and a 1950 in my to do box at the moment, so with a spare half hour this evening I did some tooth counting..... With both of these movements the center seconds wheel drives directly off the escape wheel pinion. On the 1803 the the Center seconds wheel has 80 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 8 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 10rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 150 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 2.5 teeth per second. It takes 2 beats of the balance to get 1 tooth through the pallets, so that's 5 beats per second, or 18000 BPH. On the 1950 the Center seconds wheel has 72 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 6 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 12rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 180 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 3 teeth per second, so that's 6 beats of the balance per second, or 21600 BPH. If you use a 1950 escape wheel in an 1803 without changing anything else then you have the escape wheel turning at 10rpm (determined by the beat rate of the balance) but only 6 leaves instead of 8 leaves on the escape wheel pinion. This means that in 1 minute the escape wheel turns 10 revolutions, or 60 leaves leaves worth of engagement with the center seconds wheel, which has 80 teeth, so the seconds wheel will only make 0.75 of a full rotation. You need another 20 leaves worth of escape wheel pinion rotation to get one full rotation of the seconds wheel, which takes an additional 20 seconds. So with this combination it will take 1 minute 20 seconds for the seconds hand to make 1 revolution of the dial when the balance wheel rate is correct (18000BPH).
×
×
  • Create New...