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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/13/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    jdrichard

    Finished another balance staff

    Just finished making yet another balance staff. The big problem I had was that after I Jacot to pivots down to size, the balance itself was slightly warped causing the balance to rub against the palate fork plate. I managed to straighten it using caliber and fingers. Works well now. Fun day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. 6 points
    I just thought I'd share this as it may be useful for another learner. By far the most difficult thing I've come across starting out in watch repair has been correcting bends in hairsprings. I've got the right tools, the right light, a powerful eye glass and a pile of scrap watches I've been practicing on. But I found time after time I was just making the hairsprings worse. I think part of my problem is that I'm slightly dyslexic and I find looking at the spiral really confusing sometimes. But I had a bit of break through last weekend which has dramatically improved my technique. Quite simply, I hold my eye glass up to my iPhone lens and take a close up picture of the hair spring. I then make a cup of tea and sit and look at the photo, zoom right the way in and really think about what I'm going to do. This is so much more effective than hunching over the hairspring and straining my eyes for long periods and losing patience. Once I've really thought about what I'm going to do, I go back to the hairspring with a clear strategy, ie, slight bend in, fourth from the centre at 3 o'clock. I apply the bend, take another picture and repeat. I know it sounds simple, but it's been a huge help to me and I'm finally having success
  3. 4 points
    MattWatch

    Some past projects and keepers!

    Hi All, Now, to start with I should say that my watch repaires are nowhere near the caliber (......see what i did there?) of some on this forum, but everyone started somehwhere right? Up until now I have been into costmetically restoring watches that run but have been somewhat unloved. Out of that I have started getting into the mechanical side too, I'm currently building up a FL Twin Power movement (one that I did not take apart) using the age old "yep, that seems to fit there" and "hmm that doesn't look quite right" methods! Some resources on this very forum have also been extremely useful. I can get the odd dead watch re-started, but a full strip down, service and rebuild is where i would like to get to. As i say mainly cosmetic work, the interest for me is taking something that looks completely unloved and turning into something that will be cherished. My watches have been bought for birthday presents, wedding presents, something that's being bought specifically to hold onto and pass down to the next generation, and that's what it's all about for me. Anyway, some examples for y'all Hamilton Self-Winding: Stunning Louis Erard Triple Date: Longines: Omega Geneve (never did try to sort that bottom lug out just in case): Oris 15 Jewel: Oris Super: Roamer Popular: Rotary 17 Jewel GP: 70s Seiko Auto: Seiko SeaHorse: Tissot Visodate Seastar Seven: Tudor: Old Timex: Thought I'd leave it there as you're probably getting a bit bored That's probably about 10% of the watches I've done over the past couple of years!! In terms of my own 'keepers', I don't actually have that many. A couple below: Tissot Seastar that I fell in love with the moment i put it on: Oversized Tissot Antimagnetique, which i sold and then pretty much begged the buyer to sell back to me. Which he did.....but failing to mention that hands were fused together. So i wound it not realising, and it's now broken and slightly in bits In the future I'd very much like to aquire a genuine military issued chronograph, that will be my significant investment watch i think. Hope you like! Matt
  4. 4 points
    It seems that the Auto is not functioning correctly. I used to get this issue until I started using 8951, Fixodrop (Epilame) for the reversing wheels and auto parts. I also have a rotary watch tester that I run auto's on for 48 hours just to double check all is OK. I believe Eta recommend another solution for their reversing wheels but sorry can not remember it's name.
  5. 4 points
    measuretwice

    Help finding lathe collets

    Happy to explain and you're at no risk of appearing stupid - none of us were born knowing this stuff. Forget about whitworth, metric etc for sec, they are just convention. Start with what defines a thread. Its a helical shaped groove and Its defining properties are 1) its pitch 2) its diameter and 3) its thread form. Pitch is the distance between crests, diameter is the diameter and form is the shape of the groove. There is more like direction, tapers on pipe threads, multistart threads, class of fit etc but just worry about those main three for now. A thread is a rather useless thing unless it properly mates with another. We can single point a thread of any pitch, diameter and form (and sometimes we need to), however since the whole point of a thread is to mate with something, the majority of threads we encounter today are done to some standard. The standard defines the three things; pitch, diameter and thread form. So if one plant makes the tap and other makes the bolt, the bolt fits the tapped hole. A 1/4" National fine thread is a 1/4" major diameter, a pitch of 28 tpi (actually that is the thread count, but in the vernacular its called the pitch as one is function of other: thread pitch - 1/thread count) and a form that is 60 degrees. An M8 - 1.0 is an 8mm major diameter, pitch of 1mm (distance between crests) and 60 degree form. There are many different standards, maybe hundreds, but all it is is convention, a standard defining those three things, pitch, dia and form. There is no law that if I make a product it has to follow convention. Too bad perhaps for lathe collets, one standard size would have been nice. The maker of your lathe made the thread 40 tpi and 5.5mm OD, likely not to any convention (they did that back in the early days, each lathe maker coming up with their own collets). Their collets fit their drawbar, all they thought necessary. More recently made stuff will almost for sure be to some standard (there are dozens maybe hundreds of standards), but it doesn't have to be to a standard....and the odds of an odd thread increase when you go back in time. What is it? Could well be a hybrid never seen before or again. All we know for sure is it has the three defining characteristics: a pitch diameter and form. Where does Whitworth and your gauge come into it? Whitworth is just one of hundreds of standards - a convention of diameter, pitch and thread form usually in a series. Unified National Coarse, Unified National Fine, Metric, Acme, BA, etc. One of the threads in the Whitworth series is 1/8" diameter x 40 tpi. The thread form for Whitworth is 55 degrees with highly rounded crests and valleys. All just convention. What your gauge actually measured was 40tpi pitch. For example, put your gauge against a #6 UNF bolt, which is also 40 tpi,and it will fit like it did the collet. But doesn't make the #6 screw a Whitworth, its still and UNF with a different diameter and slightly different thread form (55 vs 60 degrees, at 40tpi that might be visible with a loupe, ie the 55 gauge not perfectly fitting a 60 degree thread) SO....a thread standard like Whitworth is defined (basically) by three things diameter, pitch and form. Your gauge measures one of these tpi (or pitch). Your collet happens to have the same pitch, 40 tpi as a 40tpi x 1/8" Whitworth, but this is the extent of it, they just have the same pitch. For your collet to be a Whitworth thread (which its not) it would have also have the same diameter (for 40 tpi W = 1/8") and thread form. Its like if you had a set of Mack truck colour paint chips, and you spotted a BMW the exact same colour....the paint chips let you identify the colour (or the pitch of 40tpi) but it doesn't mean its a Mack truck. Ask away if not clear
  6. 4 points
    Delroyb

    Showing off. My new workshop setup

    Thought I would show off my new workshop. It has taken my the best part of 6 months to construct the building, then fit it all out, but finally have the space I wanted. It's a 6.5x3m building, split in half with office/watch workshop in one half and machine room in the other.
  7. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Solid 18K Gold Lug Repair Advice

    morningtundre is right. Get it gold soldered. The higher the carat the softer the gold. You need to have it repaired properly.
  8. 3 points
    I’d recommend taking it to a jewelers to ask about gold solder. Epoxy could be messy and usually ends up where you don’t want it. Beautiful watch and worth doing properly IMO... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 3 points
    the required tools may very for the type of watch you want to work on. vintage wind up, modern and battery driven, ( clocks etc.).. start with the bare minimum. vin
  10. 3 points
    Hi Guys finally got the sensor for the Horotec and got back on the job. The watch was dismantled again and cleaned, everything inspected under the digi scope and lo and behold the centre wheel has some teeth damaged caused when the spring broke, the wheel was replaced and the watch reassembled without lubrication firstly to check the amp. The amp is now upto 300+ Deg on watch o scope and the horotec, Beat error 0.03ms so lubed it up It is now running ok so left for a 24 hr test. RESULT. thanks for the input,
  11. 3 points
    yankeedog

    Hello! Tudor Cal 1182 stem problems!

    If you haven't got it already try this....with the stem out tighten the set lever screw.push in the stem. it will not fully insert, but it will push the set lever in.loosen the set lever screw about a turn, and see if the stem will insert.if it does, tighten the set lever screw. you may find that set lever now engages the groove in the stem and things work as they should.
  12. 2 points
    Measure as best you can. I purchased a balance from Balancestaffs.com and it was the wrong size. Its not their fault though...these older movements are difficult to source parts for. I looked up on J Borel and BestFit MATSYS and they both say 100/594 balance staff, but I can't fine the dimensions. If the Ronda is easier for you to get, then go with the 2796.
  13. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Nike WC0052

    These straps are like rocking horse manure and pretty unique. They must appear for sale occasionally - a leather one sold for $70 on eBay in February. You might be bale to get Steveostraps to make something (google him) from the old one.
  14. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Metal watchmaker bench

    Looks like the type of thing you would find in a morgue.
  15. 2 points
    WatchMaker

    Roxedo Manual Wind EB 8800

    You're doing the right thing investigating and finding your way around an inexpensive movement to start with! It's difficult to say if there may be other problems. This is a simple and sturdy pin lever movement but if there was an incident that was violent enough to break the pins from the pallet fork that doesn't bode well! My attention was also immediately drawn to the fact that there would normally be a jewel in that balance wheel but you have none .... however a quick check shows the EB 8800 came in 0, 1, 17 and 21 versions so you must have the base model with no jewels. It is possible to still get spare parts for vintage movements. If you go to https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/eb-movement-parts for instance and select 8800 as the EB Calibre Number and then click 'Search For Items' you'll see all the parts it's possible to get for your 8800. These are prices ex-VAT and you'd need to factor in postage. You can see that you'll soon rank up a bill where just the spares outweigh the whole value of your movement so... ... assuming you want to continue then your best bet would be to source another (or more than one) spare 8800 movement from a site like ebay and then exchange parts as necessary i.e. make one good movement from the two (or move) movements you have.
  16. 2 points
    Hi Zeb Not in favour of kits as they come bundled with tools you may never use, Bergeon tools are great but if you are just starting out best not splash out on the expensive kit first, just get the basics good tweezers in several sizes and styles movement holders ,case openers etc and build up slowly but get the best you can afford and tailor to suit your needs. hope that helps.
  17. 2 points
    oldhippy

    New to this forum!

    Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. Members on this forum use this supplier a lot. https://www.cousinsuk.com/ I always advice people that want to start up in horology to spend what you can afford. Buy cheap and they won’t last. Good tools will last you a lifetime providing you look after them. Here are few of what I had and I still have them today even though I retired from watch and clock making years ago. Dumont tweezers Bergeon screwdrivers Eyeglass you will need various strengths Case knife I would also recommend starting on a pocket watch, there a lot bigger but are very similar to a bog standard wristwatch. Just practice taking it apart and putting it back, it doesn’t matter about getting it going. Get to know the names of the parts. This will give you good practice in managing to use your eyeglass, tweezers and screwdrivers. Don’t touch fusee pocket watches, as these are very different to what I call normal pocket watches.
  18. 2 points
    Agreed, The correct place for members to introduce themselves is here... https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/forum/23-introduce-yourself-here/ Closing this thread to prevent further confusion
  19. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Record 1955-2 train question

    Thanks John. This was easier than I thought when I got into it... (72 teeth on 4th wheel x 15 on escape wheel x 2 pallets x 60 rotations of second hand per hour) / 6 leaves on escape pinion = 21600 bph Changing the leaves or teeth on the escape wheel gives wierd answers, but substituting 66 teeth on the 4th wheel gives 19800bph. Lo and behold, looking at pictures on eBay, the correct listed part has 66 teeth. It even has 7 spokes instead of 6 to make it easier to tell apart. So far my £45 bargain watch has cost me £40 to get a balance sent from the US (which I was kind of expecting) and now it looks like another £25 for a 4th wheel, and I still have a worn bush on the auto winder and a dodgy quick date change to sort out before I strip it down for a proper clean. Let’s hope I don’t find much else, and it’s a good job I’m not doing this (or worse still paying someone else) to make a profit!
  20. 2 points
    JohnR725

    Record 1955-2 train question

    There is a formula for calculating out the frequency so you have the right gear ratio for your gear train. It's found that the link below. You can at least do the calculation and see what frequency your gear train thinks it's for. Then if you're good at math you can probably figure out which wheel is at fault. Then the escape wheel for the 506 and 508 are the same. The number of teeth on the escape wheel are probably the same but the number of leaves On the pinion is probably not. https://books.google.com/books?id=nZ27BvJwol4C&pg=PA81&lpg=PA81&dq=Calculation+of+the+number+of+vibrations+per+hour+Watch&source=bl&ots=5qP-k1sz-I&sig=bL28H-7jfrQKM6V4-l8B88Quo7I&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiH1oGglYXeAhW0KX0KHc05BWsQ6AEwCXoECAAQAQ#v=onepage&q=Calculation of the number of vibrations per hour Watch&f=false
  21. 2 points
    Endeavor

    Remove watch dial

    @Nucejoe: You are absolutely right in saying that there are different techniques of how to do things. You are also right in saying that it is sometimes not so easy to navigate through the site to find the answers; even though it took me no more then 15 seconds to find the ST96 walkthrough. The problem is however that the other questions are hidden in a thread called "Remove watch dial". If a new thread were to be opened for each questions, chances are higher that the answers given to that question may pop up in the search function faster. This also may prevent that answers to that specific question (and therefor the knowledge spectrum) get lost, or do hide in a thread which deals with another problem. If we all do an effort in shoring up the question & answers, the search function may actually start to yield better results; and that will hopefully help (new) members to find answers to their questions. I find it hard to imagine that on this forum most basic questions are not already answered / explained in several different ways. However, for specific questions / problems, a new thread should indeed be opened so we can all learn from the given answers. @Leelemon; If you can't find the answer to your question in the search function, feel free to open another thread with your next question. Many members will gladly help you, be it by answering or by pointing you in the right direction
  22. 2 points
    transporter

    Stand alone microscope review

    You won’t regret it mate, just been using mine on a job that I’d wish I’d never taken on ( we all know that feeling I’m sure ) anyway, I quick update for you, I said on my last post that you can’t turn the LED light off, well I was wrong!! You can and you can adjust the brightness too, very handy, it’s on a control wheel on the side of the screen where you slot the SD card. One thing I do do is place either a white bit of paper on the base, either that or a nice bit of green card that I use as a bench mat ( hobbycraft £2.50 for 20 A4 sheets ) this helps to emphasis what ever you are looking at making for a sharper image.
  23. 2 points
    mikepilk

    Omega 552 amplitude problems

    Huge selection on ebay. Don't believe the magnification claims I recommend getting one with a stand that holds it vertical.
  24. 2 points
    measuretwice

    Lathe motor size

    that is a very nice lathe, congrats. I just looked at several watch makers lathe motors, they are all around 1/10 - 1/8 hp (say 75-100 watts) and speeds range from 6000 - 10,000. Looking at the size of the pulleys they are likely a 3:1 reduction to the spindle. There are Chinese made sewing machine motor for $30 but I agree 100 real or hopeful watts is not enough for that lathe. A key thing with electronic speed control ( by a VFD or DC PWM) is that it might be constant torque, but that means HP drops as the speed drops. If the motor is 1/4 HP at 3000 rpm, and you slow it down to 300 rpm electronically, you end up with 1/40 of a HP! Constant torque is great with say conveyors; with a machine tool you ideally want constant power - speed goes down, torque goes up. This is why mechanical speed reduction is always superior in everyway….but cost lol. The ideal is a 3P w/ VFD or DC motor and use the OEM belt speed reduction. I've a couple of Schaublin 70 and that’s what I did, best of both worlds - variable speed and full hp available If you get the oringal stepped pulley on the motor all the better. Nevertheless, if you want get electronic speed reduction, the idea is you put a much larger motor on it so it'll still have umph at low speeds. VFD 3P is an excellent way to go. A really cost competitive alternative is the 3/4hp Consew motor which I think is excellent (they are all over ebay/amazon). It’s fairly cheap, just over $100 US, and is a DC servo drive that max's at 4500 rpm. Given the pulley dia it seemed ideal to spin a small lathe at 4000 or 5000 rpm down to a few hundred. As a servo, the controller gives it more amps if the servo feedback shows its slowing down - it keeps the same rpm with a varying load. Some might think 3/4hp is too much buts not given you're using it for speed control, i.e low rpms it will deliver a fraction of 3/4 hp but still enough to do work on a little lathe. I've an extra unimat 3 that I'm readying for departure and it didn't have a motor. I put a Consew 1000 on it and am really pleased, so much so I've bought a second for my U3. That lathe was underpowered imo but not any more, irrc it was 1/10 of a hp. The Consew motor is intended for an under bench mount for an industrial sewing machine and has a lever to connect to a treadle for speed on/off. That I think is really important for watchmakers lathes, I currently use a miltifix but I dislike not having foot control and am thinking of getting a Consew and mounting it under the bench to drive watch makers lathes. For larger lathes like yours or the U3, mostly used with a slide rest (instead of a graver), I think speed control knob preferred. Fortunately its an easy mod to convert the lever speed control into a knob control. The black knob shown I added; its speed control and the lever just sits there disconnected.
  25. 2 points
    dwhite

    My pocket watches

    I envy you! I also buy them broken but make them more broken.
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