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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points

    Finished making my watch

    After I watched a couple of Mark Lovicks videos on making a watch with parts sourced on eBay I figured I'd give it a try. I made two. This is my favorite. It's a divers watch with an eta 2824-2 movement. I'm quite proud of it. I picked up an H link shark mesh bracelet. I'm calling it the deep blue desk diver. Lol
  2. 3 points

    Timex Camper Restoration

    Here we have a mechanical wind Timex Camper that has a broken mainspring. Over the next few days I will post pictures of its progress. So here we go -
  3. 3 points


    Hi guys … I had promised that I would make a « custom decal dial tutorial » on another thread there So here we are … There are many variations of decal dials, the best IMHO being the « negative gilt » dials which gives the best results. The process I’m showing today is aabout how to make a dial with black printings on a one color background. I had a cheap quartz diver waiting in my drawers so I’ll make a Heuer diver hommage based on the 980.016 model (quartz one too). DAY 01 : It’s 4:30 AM (I’m an early bird) and I have 2 hours to kill before a business trip to Paris (I’m French) so I decide I have time enough to begin. The first part of the process is to prepare the dial plate : - stripped it, removing all the lumes bars and dots - soaked the dial for some minutes in acetone to remove the paint - filled the tiny holes where the bars and dots go with cyanolite glue - sand everything flat I sand with 800 and don’t try to get a smooth surface as I want the paint to adhere perfectly to thedial plate. Here is the result … Then I want to spray paint. I make a tube with some painter’s tape, from a « curve » with it and place it on a plastic bottle cap. I want it curved so that I can stick the dial on it without any risk of bstructing the center hole or the date window of the dial plate. So I stick the sanded dial plate on the tape tube. As you can guess from the pic below … that’s not the first time a make an orange dial. Then I place the bottle cap and dial plate on a paper sheet and spray paint in orange. I use street art spray paint as it is « water resistant ». As you can see on the next pic, I don’t try to get a smooth surface, or even to perfectly cover the dial plate at first. I will let this coat dry, sand it with 2000 grade, then spray 1 or 2 coats until I get a perfectly smooth orange dial plate, ready for receiving a decal. So I place the bottle cap and dial under a shooter glass and will let it dry for about 24 hours before sanding and spraying the second paint coat. The 24 hours drying time is really important (though it could depend on the paint you use). The paint I use looks perfectly dry after about 5 hours but if you spray the second coat without waiting enough, that coat won’t perfectly adhere to the first and you could get a granular surface like an orange peel. And here is the dial waiting under the shooter glass. On the right is a « negative gilt » dial (third and last matte varnish coat) On the background there are two Raketa 2609 movements from the 70ies, quietly (really loudly to be honest) ticking for test after I‘ve recently serviced them. Now it’s 5:45 AM so I will have a and go to the train station. I’ll sand the dial plate this evening and spray the second paint coat tomorrow morning. Then sand it in the evening and spray the third coat (if needed) the day after. DAY 02 - DAY 03 : So here's what you get after the first paint coat … doesn't look really good but no matter as there's still some work to do to get a better result. And here's what you get after 3 coats of paint, each one sanded with 2000 grade, to get a perfect finish, flat and smooth. Now the dial plate is eady to receive the decal. DAY 03 : I won’t explain anything about Photoshop and Illustrator here … I’ll only explain how I print my decals. One thing really important, from my own experience, is the definition of the design. I’ve tried several, from 1200ppp to 6000pp and the best results I’ve got on printing decal sheets were with a 4000ppp definition. So all my dial designs are done in 4000ppp. The result is really BIG files … for example an A6 template with 12 dial desings ready to print is about 800Mo. As that dial is black printing only I open it with Photoshop and let the softwre (so ont the printer) deal with the printing quality. My printer is an old Epson Picturemate with a 1200 maximum definition. As the good quality decal sheets are not cheap and as I’m a « skinflint» I often print on A7 sheets … 6 dial designs on one sheet. When printed you should let it dry for about 4 hours then spray 2 really thin coats of matte varnish, letting each coat dry for at least 12 hours (24 hours is better). DAY 04 - DAY 05 : 2 days of speed-hiking with my wife so I didn’t worked on that tuto. You can check on the net what speed-hiking is, but to summarize it’s hiking as fast as you can with really light backpacks, trying not to run (or only short runs). On a good day you can walk 5 to 6 miles/hour … when trained you can walk up to 6,5 miles/hour … and while I trained for my first 62 miles ultra I achieved to walk (no running) up to 6,85 miles/hour (11 km/heure). DAY 06 : Today is Monday 6:00 AM. It’s been 5 days since I begun that tutorial and … my legs ache and all my body is painful (see Day 04 - Day 05) The dial plate is ready and the decal sheet too. You can see that the decal sheet looks matte now. That is because I have sprayed 2 coats of matte varnish on it, to protect the inkjet ink while I’ll soak the decal in water. Of course if you print with a laser you won’t have to spray varnish as the laser inks are (almost) water resistant. First thing to do is to chose the best item on the decal sheet and cut it round. Then you are ready to go. On the next pic you can see all you need now : - dial plate … fixed on a foam board using the dial feets - decal dial … nicely cut round - tweezers - thin and smooth brush (mine’s a watercolor brush) - some « micro set » … or just vhite wine vinegar (it helps the decal to set on the dial plate) - cold water Now you put the decal in cold water and while it soaks you brush some micro-set (or white vinegar) on the dial plate. Then you put the decal on the dial plate. Here you can see why I prefer using clear decal sheets on coloured dial plates … because it’s much easier to « perfectly » positionate the decal, using the central hole and the date-window. When you’re happy with the position of your decal you use a paper tissue to absorb the excess of water. Do that carefully as you don’t want to move the decal on the plate. And here we are … everything worked fine while absorbing the water and the decal position is OK. I’ll let it dry for about 12 hours before I cut the central hole and the date window, before I proceed to the varnish finish. Still Day 06 but 7:00 PM The decal has dried for about 13 hours so now I can proceed on cutting the decal sheet That's what I do then I : - fix it back on the foam board - apply some « micro set » around the center hole, the date-window and the outer diameter - gently press with a paper tissue so that the decal is perfectly applied (no more «air bubbles) And I let dry for 3 hours more Evening … 10:00 PM Now the decal is « perfectly » applied and dried and ready for the finish Last pic for today is after spraying the first coat of glossy varnish I will let it dry for 12 hours, sand it with 2000 grade paper and apply the 2nd coat. DAY 07 : 20:00 AM … only 1 pic today just after finely sanding with 2000 grade the 2nd varnish coat I applied yesterday DAY 08 : Yesterday evening I applied the 3rd and final varnish coat after finelt sanding and cleaning And today I can show you the final result … and say I'm pretty happy That dial is so glossy it’not easy to get a good pic, even on close-up. May I say that me hpone is nit the best at shooting pics (just like me) and the actual dial is much much better that it looks on the pictures below. I hope that you liked that tutorial and that it could be helpfull to members who want to try to build their own watch dials. I’ll try to make better pics with a real camera and a better lens … next week of the week after, after luming the dial together with the hands. Then I will still have to get a case and rework it so that it could be a 980,016 lookalike. Some of you may wonder how much time did I spend to make that dial. It took 8 days to achieve the all process but I spent only 1 hour the first day then only from 15mnm to 5mn the days after. So, apart from the design work on Illustrator and Photoshop (which took me hours), I would say that the whole process is about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that it's not my first try at dial making and I've trained for 2 years now. So if you want to try you should consider spending a few more hours but it's really worth the time spent as at the end you get your unique DIY dial.
  4. 3 points

    Screw Blueing

    Brass keeps the heat it doesn’t spread the heat outwards. Some people use brass filings. This is the way I used to blue screws. Remove the entire burr with a needle file and use various grade of emery, I used sticks, sometimes cloth. Wash out the screws in my old watch cleaning machine. I had an old copper penny (copper is as good as brass when it comes to heat) that was bent at an angle and held in a mini vice which was held in my bench vice. Sprit lamp underneath the penny, when the penny got hot I would put the screws one by one on the penny and blue them, as soon as the screw was blued drop it in clean oil, I used 3 in 1 this will add a shine to the screws. When all done wash them in the cleaning machine again. All nice and blued (the same colour blue for them all) ready to use when assembling the movement.
  5. 3 points

    homemade cleaning machine ?

    I have often wondered about laying one of my stereo speakers on its back , placing a large dish over the woofer,putting the cleaning solution and parts in a plastic jar and listening to Jethro Tull.
  6. 3 points
    Had to make a balance staff for an Elgin 16S Pocket watch. Used the old on as a sample and cut 90% of the staff without flipping it around. The pivots were 0.12mm and I needed to use the Jacot tool to remove material from the pivots for the final fit. As well, I shaved too much material off the hairspring side and needed to reduce the size of the collet with my staking set. Also needed to adjust the hairspring as it moved when I compressed the hairspring. Photos and video(hairspring collet reduction) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. 3 points
    Perhaps the "older" WRT-members remember that I, as a watch-novice (which I still am) back in begin 2016 serviced my own Rolex Submariner (3135). After putting myself through a rigorous training on two ETA 2540 / 2541, 17mm ladies watches, the Rolex 3135 was next. That caused, rightly, some stir on the forum. Before the service I build Stefans Watch-O-Scope to test the end results and to do some adjustments if required. With the excellent video of Mark, servicing a 3135, I performed the service. There were some heart-stopping moments, especially when at the end, while adjusting the daily-rate with a Microstella tool, my right-hand holding the balance-wheel with tweezers started doing his own thing and I bend the hairspring at the stud. Luckily that I could fix......... After the service the Watch-O-Scope signal looked horrible. The beat-error was in different position all over the place. We had endless discussions on the forum about what to do and what was next. Despite the poor W.O.S results, the Rolex ran constantly +2 or +3 seconds a day. Other attempts on the Watch-O-Scope proofed futile and for a long time I've been thinking about admitting defeat and to get the Rolex fixed by an official Rolex service point. That was until today. Even through I was quite happy with the W.O.S. results on all my other watches, I decided (after repairing a heirloom pocket-watch and the owner donated me some extra) to buy the Chinese Weishi 1000 timegrapher. Knowing how the Rolex raw-data looked like on the W.O.S. screen, I didn't expect the Weishi 1000, which came today, to make much sense out of it either. The proof is in the pudding they say, so one of the first watches to test was my Rolex. To my surprise the Weishi 1000 picked the 28800 bpm signal correctly and without any problems up. Even better, and to my big relieve !, the Rolex runs actually quite good. I hadn't worn the Rolex for a least two weeks, so it was cold and had to be hand wound. Lift angle set at 52 degrees. Dial Up: -7 s/d, 294 degrees, 0.1 ms Dial down: -7 s/d, 292 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown down: -3 s/d, 272 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown up: -2 s/d, 278 degrees, 0.2 ms. I know that when worn, the Rolex runs +2 to +3 s/d constantly. This get to show, as @JohnR725 keeps saying with timegrapher signals; Rubbish in = Rubbish out. To my big relieve it also shows that I didn't ruin my Rolex and that it actually runs very fine....... no need for a new balance staff or an official Rolex service, saving me at least a $1000 and giving me a peace of mind. I've been very happy with the W.O.S and it still has its place. The Weishi 1000 however ....... It thoroughly impresses me ! I like to thank everybody for their input a few years back and just in case there were still some members out there wondering & worrying about my novice Rolex "endeavor", we can now put this aside and all sleep well Cheers: Roland.
  8. 2 points
    Heat up any sharp point metal resembling screwdriver., it comes out in pieces ,clean physically to remove the rsidue and soak in solvent to chemically dissolve, remove and brush clean the groove, No chemical or heat on the bezel.
  9. 2 points
    That's the thing with the various "removing tools", they tend to work OK until they don't. I know not everyone has or wants a lathe, but it really is the best tool for removing staffs, my preference is to turn off the hub for zero risk of enlarging the hole. I have used the K&D tool in the past, fairly often when I was working in a trade shop while in school. No lathe in that shop. I imagine it works as well as a Platax, which is to say pretty well. I still have the tool but it hasn't been used in 20 years.
  10. 2 points

    FHF 70 running slow, good amplitude

    I have not taken pictures - sorry normally I do but this job required 120% concentration and a lot of lateral thinking the very small pin was very difficult to remove that was holding the HS end in place. Eventually I got it moving and out, but it was not very tapered. i ended up taking ages to reshape it slightly with 2000 grit paper. it turned out it was easier to cut the HS and remove the pin then. obviously I had to estimate the bend to put back into the spring, and then shape it again slightly when back in situ and pinned. the pin was fiddly as hell to get back into place, thank god for No5 tweezers. then checked the shape of the spring again and tweak accordingly I ended up refitting the balance complete and moving the adjuster to give me a visual line for working out the orientation of the pallet jewel, taking it off and turning the collet until I was happy, did that a couple of times. overall about 4 hours
  11. 2 points
    This just came out and I thought I'd share it with you guys. I've written lot of articles for Home Shop Machinist magazine over the years and this is a four part how- to-build-it series starting this month. The tool is an aid toward aligning machine tool ways when you scrape them, its my design but is patterned after a commercial one unavailable now for decades (It think mine has a number of improvements) . Fairly esoteric, but it generates a good bit of interest as scraping is a very cool thing in that with fairly simple hand tools you can take best of breed machine tools and restore the bearing surfaces to their original accuracy or better. Tenths of thou territory (microns for you guys across the pond ). Probably not many here into machining, but its my main hobby and what got me interested in clocks and watches. Cheers
  12. 2 points

    Rotor bearing replacement

    How did you know the bearing need be replaced. Simple clean and oiling may be all you need.
  13. 2 points

    Oris TT1 7750 Question

    In my experience, the "Pro" will only do what makes money, and repairing a heavily damaged item wont make any money. Furthermore if spares are hard to come by, or there are other roadblocks on the way to fixing the thing, then they would say it is beyond (economical) repair. My philosophy is different, so far as I am concerned, *anything* can be repaired if you are prepared to throw enough time and money at it. I have fixed up a bunch of watches that were not worth repairing from a commercial standpoint, but which I found fun and interesting to fix. Cheap EB8800 pin lever based watches for example, are not worth the trouble of getting working, unless, like me, you are doing it for your own amusement. The spare parts cost more than I am spending on the whole watch, so I rob parts from donor movements, and clean and service stuff that any "pro" would consign to the bin. At the end of the day, I have the satisfaction of owning something interesting and possibly in some cases unique, or at least increasingly rare, as more and more of these old time pieces are consigned to landfill. Along the way, I am learning, and keeping the old grey cells active. It sure beats vegetating in front of the constant stream of drivel being churned out by the mainstream media.
  14. 2 points

    Pocket-watch hand repair ....

    Thought it may be worth to share; I received a pretty beaten up, none-running 1890-1900 cylinder-escapement pocket-watch. It had all sorts of problems, a list too long to go into details. Among those problems was a bend/broken minute hand. It inevitably broke off when trying to straighten it. The center-hole diameter of the minute-hand was 0.5mm and the length was 15mm. The hour-hand had a hole diameter of 2.0mm and the length was 10mm. Searching the internet to find an identical set proofed futile. The watch is a heirloom so originality was a priority. The hands turned out the be made of bronze, a copper-tin alloy. Therefor it made sense to attempt soldering but the part that had to be soldered had a thickness of only 0.3mm. Both parts had to be fixed in place with a sort of clamp capable to fixing both parts, being heat resistant and "none-sticking". A soldering iron, even with the smallest tip, would be far too big for the job and to avoid touching the parts, I choose to use a hot-air gun used in electronics for soldering SMD-components to a circuit-board. A few test were made which tin to use and at which temperatures. 300 degrees C with tin used in electronics seemed to work fast and made the tin to flow nicely. I used a soldering flux-paste. The clamp consisted of two metal rails, slightly diverting from each other to give many clamping options, bolted on a plate of gypsum. Pulling over a #1000 grid sand paper, I made two 45 degrees chamfered edges on either end of both parts; The two parts were clamped in; Applied some soldering flux, heated it all up to 300 deg.C and applied a tiny bit of tin. Once cooled down, I removed some excess tin with a small diamond file. Here a picture of the back side of the minute-hand; And here the front; the tin didn't flow further away from the soldered joint or around the edges Most likely not the strongest repair in the world, but when not touched it should be strong enough to do the job. On the picture the hand color looks black, but that's due to the lighting. In reality the hand hasn't lost any of its shiny patina at the front ...... Anyway, I thought to share this repair as one of the many different possibilities
  15. 2 points
    I can find faults with all of them. Never use a re-bushing tool. The chap re-busing a carriage clock. If you use the reamer correctly it will self-centre in the hole, all this hold it like this and push it the other side is rubbish. If you use very large reamers as he showed you, a little lube such as oil and you will always have a perfectly round hole. Never bush from the outside, always from inside the plate. When you need to tap the bush in place put it on a block and with the correct size flat punch tap it in, the way he showed, you could miss and hit the plate causing a mark and as it’s a carriage clock and the movement is visible it will always be seen. The customer will not be happy, you have de-valued the clock. I never liked pre made bushings. I preferred to make my own by measuring the plate, pivot and oil well, making it, I knew it would fit properly and would not be seen. A movement that is visible and re-bushed correctly, you should never be able to see the work.
  16. 2 points
    Having a watch that can count your steps seems to be all the rage these days, so not wanting to seem to be out of touch with the latest fad I just purchased myself a step counting watch. Pictures from ebay as item not received yet. Am I missing the point a bit? Will certainly be something different to service.
  17. 2 points

    Hello from the rubber city USA

    This being a family friendly forum..I concluded you were talking about tires.
  18. 2 points

    travel clock identification

    Sometimes an ultraviolet light can help. I would use one on Loncase Clock dials, always worked for me.
  19. 2 points
    What's the tooth count of the barrel and center pinion? I'm suspecting a depthing problem due to worn center plate and bridge holes.
  20. 2 points
    The chronograph wheel is dirty or damaged. It has a clutch that is engraved and disengaged. When engaged it seems that it’s getting caught. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 2 points
    Seiko ProspeX SRPC39J1 Ordered this over the weekend & what a deal !! 258 buck$ + free shipping & no tax !! (Actual baby turtle not included.)
  22. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    My latest: It's a Geckota K-01 Pilot featuring a fully polished 44mm case, screw down crown and embossed back cover. The movement is a Seiko NH35 with hacking and stem winding but no date. The sterile dial with large numerals and seconds can be read easily. Amazing lume! The back shot is from the mfg's web site as I didn't want to disconnect the bracelet for a proper pic. Oddly enough, I've had my eye on this one for quite some time. The mfg'r just put these on sale last week. I was browsing another watch forum when this one was posted for sale at half the current discounted new price. The seller felt it was too large for his wrist so I snapped it up. As only 100 of each of this model in brown or blue dials were made, it isn't going to be common. The watch is also offered with ETA movements with other options. Additionally, the packaging was over the top. The box is wood, highly finished and leather lined. Oy!
  23. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    I haven't figured out exactly which model mine is yet. I did have a quick trawl on line, but it seems there are a lot of similar models, but nothing looking like an exact match so far. Here are a couple of closeups for anyone interested. As you can see there are still a couple of minor scratches here and there. It is tempting to over do the polishing, but I didn't want to change the look of the thing too much, I merely wanted it to look presentable. The lume on the hands is pretty good, when I removed it from under the light I used while taking those pictures, the lume was bright, even in a well lit room. The face is also very readable, all in all a well designed little watch. It is beginning to grow on me.
  24. 2 points
    While at it , Check for worn out center hole, how about end and side shake on center wheels arbor? Runs real freely if center hole is worn out. A close up of center hole with canon pinion removed. Now that yankee said it, subsecond arbor appears bent to me too. Good time to check for bent subsecond is before fork is installed, when you can run gears fast. Any washer under dial is better than no washer.
  25. 2 points
    This particular one is not possible to pin unfortunately. The best remedy is to clean out the old adhesive and apply new. I would use a slower drying epoxy (very very small amount applied using a clock oiler for example). Apply when the glue is tacky enough to hold the spring in place so you can test if it is correctly positioned. Once you are convinced of its correct position along the length of the end of the spring then leave it to set. Do this with the stud re-attached to the index but the hairspring not attached to the balance staff so that you can check the position of the hairspring collet being directly over the pivot hole. This will make it easier for you to observe that the spring is straight and true on the stud.