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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points

    Fixing my Late Brothers Watch

    Just got it back today from Chris Radek, The Timeguy. Could not me happier, thank you Chris and all here who helped. Bob C.
  2. 5 points
    I'm attaching a couple of images that show how to do it and how not to do it. Do not rely on the pivot that goes into the hole to get the oil to Flow. Ideally want something that's really in much smaller than the hole itself..
  3. 5 points

    Strange things inside a watch

    Well who would have thought it. That thick gummy nastiness I keep finding in old watches actually comes from mythical technicoloured horned equines. I'll need to remember to keep it and bottle it next time.
  4. 5 points
    Much better after running for 10h! [emoji846][emoji846] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  5. 4 points
    The reason why The repair is so expensive is several reasons. If you take the watch to a jewelry store and they send it out for repair they mark up the repair cost considerably. Ideally you want to find the repair shop yourself you'll get a better price. But no matter what this watch is going to be expensive to get repaired. If the shop really was a Rolex shop they nearly double the cost of anything that's a vintage watch. Then if it's complicated like a chronograph it will go up again. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-nov-29 Then Nucejoe was kind of kidding about a decade of experience. For instance depending upon where you're located their schools teaching professional watchmakers two years there would put you in a much better position the service a chronograph. But Mark does have chronograph videos I have a link below for one of them not the same caliber as yours unfortunately but don't give you a clue is only six parts should bill a breeze through that no time. Okay here's the problem it's a chronograph with some stuff on the dial side it's a little more complicated. There is a service manual for it but it's really big file size so I'm not going to attach it. In order service this yourself you're going to need to learn how to master servicing a watch without breaking it probably service several of them without breaking them. Then I would find one of these movements on eBay to practice on before working on something that you prize. Because no matter what in watch repair things happen and breaking something that you value is actually a really good lesson in watch repair to teach you why you shouldn't be repairing it in the first place. It just depends on how much pain and suffering you like. So it's not impossible that you can repair it yourself it just isn't something that we would advise you to do at least not right now until you get lots of experience. Then as you didn't say where you're located it makes it hard to make recommendations of where you might look for repair shop. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Valjoux_72 https://youtu.be/EI3T-IR3AgM Valjoux_Valjoux 72.pdf
  6. 4 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    My lovely Tudor Pelagos.
  7. 4 points
    My Tissot chronograph, which I got for a song at a local Pawn shop, has been sold as I wasn't wearing it much. It was bulky and needed a link in the bracelet to fit more comfortably. I was seriously considering building a 7750 clone from eBay parts when I chanced across this Accurist chrono. It is powered by a Landeron 248. It looks to be of a late 60's vintage, but have no idea how to date them. Coming from the UK so it will be a couple weeks. It was sold as running, which is a plus, looks like it'll need a crystal polish for sure. I absolutely ADORE the complexity of mechanical chronographs!
  8. 4 points

    So much waiting

    Specialize in limited number of calibers and brands. That way, you get good at all the technical ends n outs and a used or new scrap movement can be your material house to the last drop. A good example of this is jersymo, knows and has everything about timex.
  9. 4 points

    Strange things inside a watch

    The strangest thing that i have found was in the Montine electronic ESA 9157, bought as a 'non runner'(which I am coincidently wearing at the moment), the seller described it as 'may work I haven't tried a new battery'. Well needless to say I took that with a pinch of salt..........On removing the 'Renata No11' battery (funny number I thought?) a new battery saw it ticking away merrily.. The old battery was on the work bench and the light caught something scratched on the top of it. I would appear that the watchmaker who last changed the battery had scratched the date on it......'16.4.82'! The number on the battery was 'funny' as it was a long extinct mercury cell, and had been in the watch for the last 38 years, without leaking!! It would also appear that the same fastidious watchmaker was also responsible for fitting the replacement, rather expensive, NSA watch strap as I found this scratched inside the clasp.... 'ZTX New 3.5.81'........ Oh and the same bracelet can still be bought........I think I did quite well for my £20 or so outlay...
  10. 4 points
    Today I received this beautiful Omega Genève from 1968 with blue dial. Iit was sold as not running, but with the optical condition and the ridiculously low price I just couldn't say no When I opened it a screw fell right out the movement. I noticed that it should hold one of the caseclamps in place, which was missing. I guessed that the caseclamp made its way into the train of wheels, causing the watch to stop. So I carefully shaked the watch and volià, the clamp fell out and the movement began to run. I resecured the clamp with the screw. The movement looks really dirty though, so it will definitly benefit from a service. The results on the timegrapher confirmed that, so there is still work to do I also fittet an original Omega buckle to the strap.
  11. 4 points
    Just picked this up for 25.00. has a split stem and the seller thought the stem was broken but it just needed pushed back in to reconnect Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  12. 4 points
    All working perfect now. Everything was good all the time. After I test the motion work with power on the mainspring everything behave as expected and all working perfect! Really happy to accomplish my first amateur Rolex service!! Bit error is at zero but amplitude is a bit low at 275'. I think amplitude might not be great because I'm not really good at lub the jewels on the pallet fork and made a bit of a mess with the Moebius 9415. Thanks again for all the fantastic support.
  13. 4 points
    Picked up this Timex Electric and Cimier off the Bay. Both look like the will clean up well but working condition is unknown. Also picked up this Gotham to play with
  14. 4 points

    Battery replacement procedure

    There is always a better way to do a simple job. You may take the steps that better apply to your situation Remove the band and clean it separately. If leather apply a specific product. Clean the case carefully before opening it Use a good and proper opener so to have zero chances of the tool slipping Clean the gasket groove and any other trace of dirt around Check voltage on the new battery, you want a bit more that 1.55V Check well if any screw need to be losened to ease the battery out Handle the battery with plastic tweezers or finger coats only Some modules have an AC pad to be shortened to battery to get restarted Some modules require a lot of button pressing and perhaps reading the manual to reset sundials correctly Set date one day earlier, then set time so to be sure that it changes at midnight Check the gasket, if any wear of deformation replace it with a new one which fits perfectly even if you have to order it Mark the date on the caseback Apply a little silicone grease before reinstalling the gasket Remove stem, clean it all carefully, apply hp-1300 to all contact areas and silicone grease to its gasket Blow air to module before closing it Do a pressure testing Brighten the case by hand with cloth and a touch of Dialux bar more suited to the case material Present to owner with a proud smile Now you know how to turn a 2 minute task into a one hour one.
  15. 4 points
    131_O1086-D5 MSDS englisch.pdf
  16. 4 points

    Making a Watchmaker's Bench

    Here is the right side drawer encasement with drawers. Making the bench satisfactorily is consuming a lot of time, but I have no regrets. I enjoy the work. I think after the drawer-fronts are done and pull-handles installed I will make the back, and left/right sides of the bench. Then I can take it inside and have a surface on which to work; while I complete the left-side encasement and drawers. It might take some months; but I know when it's finished I will have known I did my best on everything.
  17. 4 points
    I'm attaching a few photos to get you started. Then a couple links. https://timepieceshoppe.com/cylinder-watch-mechanical-restoration/ https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/balance-cylinder-removal-punches
  18. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    Been wearing my 'slightly modified' SKX007 today (Crystal Times coin edge bezel, OSC Planet Ocean bezel insert and NH36 movement, fitted with a Dragon Shrouds Jumbo crown). Apologies for the old picture, peeing with rain here today and didn't fancy going out to take a new one.
  19. 4 points

    Loose Centre Wheel Arbour

    Do not straighten that pinion, it's supposed to be bent!!!!!! That is the canon pinion set up on a lot of old pocket watches. The bend in the pinion is to create the slipping friction clutch function to allow the train to drive the hands, but also allow the hands to be set without sending torque back into the train. This has been discussed fairly recently but I can't find the thread, however have a look here for more detail.
  20. 3 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    My first 'real' watch... IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Cousteau Divers” REF 3783, 2006
  21. 3 points

    Movement identification

    Hi The attachment below may be of use to you in the future for ID purposes. Symbols (1) watch trade marks.pdf
  22. 3 points

    Swap Rolex Movment 3035 for 3135?

    Not true, there are very many competent, independent watch repairers in the US (and elsewhere). They may be able to repair what you think is not repairable, that includes obtaining part or even making new ones. For the US search AWCI directory, plus the Internet for reputation and customer feedback.
  23. 3 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    My restored Seiko Kinetic purchased and worn since 2004 SMY093P1 Rotor removed and running from a non rechargeable battery. Sapphire crystal fitted. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  24. 3 points
    These movements you quoted are very old (1940/50s era) so they are much more inclined to fault when not handled properly.my first question is are you cleaning and oiling these before reassembling? If not then that can be your issue to begin with but here’s what i think...... the one that stops on the side = bent balance staff and/or broken jewel why? Because you did not set the balance properly before screwing down the bridge. It’s should be ticking as soon as you seat it correctly if there is power from the mainspring. I always wind up the watch and check action of the pallet before installing the balance. Once you see it running put the screw in and gently rest your finger on the bridge while you screw it down, sometimes they wiggle as you screw it down and the staff can pop out of the pivot. Just use the weight of your finger do not apply any additional pressure. Do not screw it down all the way at first, screw it until bridge is secure remove finger the tighten it as much as you can from there...balance screws should be tight too loose can cause watch to stop. the one that runs fast = magnetized or sticking hairspring coil why? Because you didn’t clean the movement. Or demagnetize the movement and or your tools. You could also be warping the hairspring when you remove it or not setting it down properly after you remove it. It should be laid on its back with wheel sitting into the balance cock pivot, or put up on a balance tack...some are against this but i have used a balance tack forever and never once had an issue....i just wouldn’t leave it there too long. When a movement runs fast look very closely at the coils expanding and contracting - a cell phone video with slow motion works good. Make sure none of the coils are sticking and also make sure the expansion is even on both sides. when not laid properly the hairspring can get off center and coils will contract much more on one side causing it to run fast.
  25. 3 points

    Dentist/Doctor Magnifiers

    As a dentist, I have been using binocular loupes for almost 20 years. But it's just unnatural to use it for watch repair. When doing watch repair, I prefer to hunch up with the watch right in front of my nose, with wrist and elbow supports. I find that this gives me the best stability, especially after a cup of coffee. And binocular loupes have many designs. The 1 in the picture might not be suitable for everyone. It offers adjustable interpupillary distance, but there is no adjustment for declination angle and optical plane height. So unless your face fit the frames perfectly, the loupes might not work for you.
  26. 3 points

    Omega Seamaster 1337 reserection

    Hello all, I know it's 'only' an electrical one but to say I'm overjoyed is a bit of an understatement. My Grandfather gave me this, his 1982 retirement watch, 20 years ago as an empty case and strap - the innards had apperently been slowly demolished over the years by a leaky battery and where nowhere to be found. At the start of the locky-down thing I decided it was time to do a bit of research to see if the parts could be found to rebuild it, bit of a baptism of fire as a total newby. It soon became evident that this search should have been done years ago because Omega restricted parts coupled with a dearth of NOS parts was a real headache! Through all this research I also realised just how rare the case and bracelet style were so persisted for months, getting my claws on some old, rough, nasty and for want of a better word, crap bits and pieces. As we know the circuit and coil are getting really rare but even more rare it seems are the winding pinions and dials for them, and even the crap parts are ludicrously expensive. You know how you get into something, buy bits, realise your up to your neck in it but realise you're to far in it to retreat? Suffice to say, I've had so much support from several people in the watchmaker community so with their help and shear dogged, billigerence and blatant stubbornness it is finally running. Still some work to do - the date needs to start changing at half 11 because it takes two hours to change, the seconds hand needs lining up better with the minute markers and I've toyed with the idea of restoring the dial, with some lacquer and minute markers missing (or maybe not, as it's a sign of its individuality!) Having enjoyed it for a while I'll also take it all apart again and service it, only because of Lawson''s brilliant walk-through on the 1337 movement on this forum. Never really thought of a bi-colour watch like this as my style, but with the blood, sweat, tears and more sweat and tears that has gone into it, I've decided I love it to bits. Thank you all for your never ending inspiration and such generous shared knowledge Mark Lovick and everyone - great bunch of people you lot!
  27. 3 points
    sometimes pictures help.
  28. 3 points

    Screwdriver Stands

    My "beginner" set of screwdrivers weren't that great, but with better blades they got me through. Now I just keep them on my office desk for quick adjustments (okay ... it's more of a horological paperweight than anything else) but the stand it came with always bugged me. It was downright ugly and felt more like a pepper grinder when i spun it. So, me being a cross between Rube Goldberg and Emmit Brown, I decided to make one. Several prototypes later this is what I came up with. The 3D model and the actual print. The bearings are for a pair of sealed bearings for skate wheels and the inserts are removable so the size can match the color between screwdriver brands. The base is weighted and i found that it also holds my Bergeon set just fine, if that stand ever needs to be replaced.
  29. 3 points

    Bent Roller Table

    I would remove it, heat it up and remove the impulse Jewel. Then I would heat it up again and flatten it with a flat stake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  30. 3 points
  31. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    I finally got round to replacing the crystal on this Bifora 115/CLD based "F Hinds" 17 jewel, which has been waiting patiently since December 2018 for me to do something about its cosmetic imperfections. Its one I wear fairly regularly, (hence the slightly scruffy strap), so I thought since I'm on a horrible crystals purge, it deserved "the treatment". The crystal for this one came from our very own luiazazrambo via ebay. He just so happened to be the only seller I could find with the correct high dome in the correct size. I didn't even know it was his seller ID, till he PM'ed me after I had made the purchase. Its a small world. Thanks again for a prompt and painless transaction. Here is a little info about the German manufacturer Bifora. http://www.bifora-ev.de/bifora-freundeskreis/museum.html
  32. 3 points

    Newbie - Watch Repair Advice

    do you value this watch in any way? If the answer is yes then it's not going to be the first watch you repair your going to start on something disposable. On the other hand if you don't care about the watch that can be your first watch to repair. Everybody starting watch repair has an unfortunate habit of breaking things. It's part of learning watch repair and unfortunately breaking things especially vintage things usually does not end well. then can we have a picture of your grandfather's watch?
  33. 3 points
    Another 1972 Viscount. I particularly like the hands on this. Shame the crown and stem is missing, but I guess if it wasn't then the thing would have gone for a lot more.
  34. 3 points

    Where do I start with tools?

    It is interesting to read peoples comments on tools and the many diverse opinions there are. What we have to remember is that Bergeon tools in the hands of an incompetent person are just as useless as the mid priced range of tools and it is the person using the tools that makes the difference. I would agree with the remark regarding the cheap tweezers and screwdrivers as they are not up to the job, but as jdm remarked the mid to upper price range of tools are well suitable if looked after, that's the same for any tools, care and attention. In essence it all boils down to personal choice and the affordability. When starting a new hobby etc that requires the purchase of tools and equipment, Unless you are to get deep into that hobby start off slowly and build up your selection of tools etc as you go upgrading when required. There may come a time when you get bored with it and give up and then you are left with a lot of expensive kit. I have been into this for 60+ years and have still got the Dumont tweezers and the screwdrivers I first bought all those years ago not Bergeon ones, but they have served me well.
  35. 3 points

    Where do I start with tools?

    I think you have hugely overspent. As I wrote many times currently the top quality ball bearing A&F can be had as unbranded.for GBP 2.50 a piece, that makes 10 quids for the four most used one. With the balance compared to the overpriced Bergeon you could have bought a basic timegrapherand few stuff more. So you have found that the brand name is not alway needed. It's the person that does the job not the tools.
  36. 3 points

    Making a Watchmaker's Bench

    I'm no furniture maker, but I think this will work. First milestone complete. Next is the back and sides, then the working surface. I'll then bring it in and make the other case of drawers at a less hurried pace.
  37. 3 points


    I made this for anybody getting started, feel free to share. Recommended Lubricants for Getting Started.pdf
  38. 3 points

    step collets vs bezel chuck

    I suggest finding a 100mm Maprox 6 jaw step chuck. They crop up regularly on Ebay. Probably still run you a few hundred bucks but you'll never regret it. The jaws are machinable and replaceable, if you're lucky you might get both internal and external jaws, if not Maprox has them. These were often branded "JF", sometimes Alina, sometimes both. The jaws can be machined without need of a clamping ring, due to their clever design. Step collets are great, but you need a bunch and the steps are still rather large. You can get blank step collets of course and machine them as you like. If you are really on a budget and like making tooling Schaublin has a kind of step chuck-y type thing that's fairly simple and ultra precise. You can see in the pics it's an arbor that has a tail end identical you your lathe collets (W20 here, 5C for you). The front has a taper, 15-20 degrees is fine. Then there is a piece that slides on the arbor with a very close fit, with a taper to fit your spindle nose and a taper to go in the "collet". The "collet" is the brass piece (Schaublin furnishes blanks in steel, I make them up as needed in brass as it's usually for a onesie-twosie thing). The collet has a bore to pass freely over the arbor, and tapers at each end. It's slotted as far as possible in 3 spots. When you chuck it in your lathe it expands of course, very precisely. To machine it you just tighten the drawbar slightly, or if you want to be more secure you can make a ring that will slide on and expand to grip that. Schaublin's is naturally hardened and ground all over, but if you start with decent steel like Stressproof you don't need to harden it or grind it, just careful turning work and it should last decades.
  39. 3 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    It really is an Incredible watch, the detail is unbelievable for the price point... Looks killer on a tan strap too!
  40. 3 points

    What lubricants do people use?

    Hi some more information for your interest attached.. Moebius Oil_Chart.pdf moebius-specsbook.pdf
  41. 3 points

    Can extraction gassoline disolve shelac?

    Isopropanol will soften and wash away the shellac. Take care with the balance and pallet fork. Just a quick dip of a few seconds, then straight onto watch paper to take off the excess, then use a puffer to dry the critical areas where the shellac bonds on the jewels. After 4 years using lighter fluid and thinking I was getting parts clean, I now use Elma watch cleaning product. Amazing how I fooled myself about how clean was clean. Also, try an ultrasonic which are very cheap nowadays. In general, IPA (isopropyl alcohol)is not a good cleaner, but is good for the final fine rinse if done quickly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  42. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Here is the latest watch I’m pleased to have completed for my collection. I bought this watch in a pretty poor condition described as runs intermittently and in need of a crystal. Well, that was not very accurate. One of the dual springs was snapped, the lower Inca lyre spring was snapped and by fortune the cap stone was found in the works. That explains the intermittent running [emoji23] Anyway, here it is, 2 new mainspring, a new gilt ring crystal and a nice brown leather strap. I only wish it was larger in diameter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  43. 3 points
    Typically on the majority of American pocket watches the movement is set up similar to yours. This is where the watch itself has no stem as that is in the case. So your movement is fine make sure when you're putting it together to lubricate all of the stuff associated with the setting so it's slide smoothly. Link down below so you can look at the pictures. It's not really important but you're missing the micro regulator adjustment. You can still regulate the watch fine without it. Then the crown is most definitely does not look like the right crown for this particular case. It almost looks more like a wristwatch style crown for American watches. I went attached some images you can see what the wristwatch version looks like. Also a picture of the typical pocket watch stem and sleeve arrangement. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/illinois/4927242
  44. 3 points

    Be careful what you wish for!

    Amazing is an understatement. Here is what I got accomplished last night... I got the entire motion works back together. It actually runs great. The oscillating weight spins nice and free. The mainspring barrel is only supported on one side, but it really doesn't seem to have any adverse side effects. Everything was mostly surface rust. I scrubbed everything with a bit of peg wood and it all came off. Any pitting was very shallow, just barely under the plating. I dug out a screw from an older junk Seiko I had to replace the missing bridge screw. I'll work on the keyless works and the day/date components tonight.
  45. 3 points

    Watch repair tutorials

    Hello and welcome to the forum, I have attached a couple of PDFs for your interest. The witschi one may be a bit over your head at the moment but will give you an insight to the complexities of watch repairing. enjoy cheers TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf Witschi Training Course.pdf
  46. 3 points
    Hi VW I have a philosophical comment and I hope it is taken with blithe to all at WRT. I am 66 years of age and if I have learnt one thing life at the this side of 50 races by. So if you want a luxury watch to adorn your wrist and you will get pleasure from it go buy it. You will as you get older regret that you didn't if you really would like to see one on your wrist. There are many things I wish I had done when my body was in a more youthful state and yes I do regret not fulfilling some of them. I hope if you can and you want to, you will.
  47. 2 points

    Anatomy of shock systems

    Hi This might be useful in explaining the balance shock system and how it operates Watch Anti-Shock Settings - Great British Watch Company.html
  48. 2 points

    Where do I start with tools?

    I am fairly new to so I’m adding my viewpoint as a beginner rather than an expert. To start off I would say that I have never regretted spending more on tools, I have also bought some pretty cheap tools and regretted it. Having said that I have bought some cheap tools which I use all the time. The best way to learn what you need will always be experience. I bought a set of seven pairs of “value tweezers” from Cousinsuk which came in a wooden box, the set is now priced at £11.95. Needless to say, some of these are useless, tips bend easily and don’t meet perfectly. However, I do still use some of these regularly and the box is very nice to have. The set has a range of shapes and sizes so it gives you an idea of what you need. I also have Dumont tweezers at £30 a pair, these are awesome and can manipulate the smallest parts with no problem where the cheap tweezers struggle. Buy a set of good quality, Swiss, screwdrivers with a stand. It is hard to get a good stand afterwards and you will regret not having one. Pegwood and Rodico are essential, get some. Oilers likewise, you can get a set of Bergeon oilers for under £10. You may want something more expensive later but no need to start. An oil pot with at least three divisions will be useful and various oils to go in it. There are many thread on oils so have a read of those. You will have to spend some money on oils and these are frightfully expensive but last for ages and can’t be avoided. Agood quality movement holder is essential. Don’t skimp on this you will throw it away. A Bergeon 4040 or 4040p is recommended. My 4040p fits everything I have thrown at it so far. You will need a good quality eyeglass, perhaps 10x magnification, and I would recommend a Burgeon eyeglass holder (5461) to keep the eyeglass on your eye. I started out without the eyeglass holder and it was a gamechanger when I got it. I also use a binocular magnifier at 3.5 times for general work which I got on Ebay for about £15. It is not ideal as it tends to distort circles but extremely useful if your eyesight is not 100%. A light green plastic or rubber mat is very nice to have as it is an excellent background colour to work on. It is also easy to keep clean. I tend to get tools as I need them rather than trying to predict what I will need. Once you realise you need a tool do some research. Ask in the forums. You may find you don’t need It or need something else. Once you are sure, don’t skimp on the price if possible. You wont regret buying good quality tools but you may regret buying tools you don’t need so don’t be in a hurry and get the rest of the tools as and when you need them.
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points

    Loose Centre Wheel Arbour

    Since the hand turns with the center wheel (which runs true in its bearings), if it is set parallel to the dial it will remain that way. And even during setting, the shaft rides in the hole in the center wheel, which is the guide and is straight, so no problem. Hold your arm up at a 45 degree angle, and hold a piece of cardboard parallel to the ground, now pivot around 360 degrees, the cardboard doesn't nutate, despite the dramatically bent part.
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