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  1. 5 points
    I was waiting for the cleaning cycle to finish and I came across this board. Some of the posters are pretty serious and that is a pleasant thing to see. I have been updating my website to highlight pages that may be of interest to the membership http://historictimekeepers.com/Notes for Watchmakers.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/Microscopes.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/measurement_in_watchmaking.htm I am trying to leave a trail of bread crumbs so that younger watchmakers do not have to learn the hard way like I did. I do need to put together a book list (Jendritski, Perkins, Whitney, Wild, Gazeley, the Argus Shop series, Sherline book, etc) that gets people away from relying on bad information or writers who leave Easter Eggs for the reader to figure out. If people have a topic they would like me to add, let me know. My goal is to fill the space of how things are done which tends to be glossed over. For example, using an adjustable hotplate instead of an alcohol lamp for bluing and shellacking, etc. Things I have found that make life easier and increase the probability of success. Regards, Dewey
  2. 5 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    Here is my cat "Lew" helping me adjust a pocket watch and adding a hair to places one should never be.
  3. 4 points
    I just completed cutting my first balance staff on a lathe. All went well on the balance/hairspring side, including undercutting and leaving enough material to make the rivet. On the roller table side however, i cut a smidgen too much. Is there any way to tighten the roller table on or di i need to cut a new staff? I thought shellac on the post would harden and keep the table on. I still need to jacott the pivots, so am i waisting my time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. 4 points
    Mark

    What have I bought now!

    Lol. Wait until she goes to Tesco’s. That’s what I always did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 4 points
    anilv

    Cheap as chips.. CAMY Jet-King 908

    Showing off my latest flea-market find. A Camy Jet King 908 from around the mid 70s I think. The 'speedometer' seconds hand is typical of watches from this time. The seller wanted MYR80 (roughly USD20) but when I pointed out that it was not running (the seconds needle was as dead as a dodo) he came down to MYR70, claiming it was just serviced. I bought it anyway because the dial seemed good under the scratched up crystal and when I advanced the time the date advanced as it should. Below pics are after the crystal has been sanded and polished. The caseback has the typical Camy design.. I have another one where the central portion is the same but in gold (just like a Grand Seiko!). The crown seems to be original and has six notches instead of fine lines, similar to Omega. And inside is a FHF 67 movement. When I bought it I just stuffed it in my jeans pocket and when I got back I was pleased to see that it was ticking. Sometimes this is due to heat from your body thinning the old oils enough so that the watch can run. This usually means a service is in order. When I got home and opened it up however, I found a dial screw loose in the watch. On examination of the movement I found it was clean and running well so I just reinstalled the dial screw and tightened up the other dial screw (it was loose). Luckily the wayward screw did not get caught up in the hairspring. The movement was in pretty good shape, even the area around the crown release screw has been spared the butchering you usually see on older watches! The sellers claim that it has been serviced seems true and apart from the dial screw everything else seems in order. A quick polish of the crystal and some cleaning of the case and it's back together and on my wrist! have a good weekend guys! Anilv
  6. 4 points
    There is a book Donald DeCarle: Practical watch adjusting. Stepy-by-step checks to make sure everything is ok which is adding to the rates. These are not that bad results. But from a swiss movement we can get some more. Good amolitudes suggesting You can skip the mainspring and gear train part As JDM said, Du/DD deviance suggesting to much endshake. Jeweling tool needed here adjusting the whole setting depth. Hairspring should be tinkered to proper vertical rates. Or You just adjust it to Your average hand (left or right, top or bottom on the wrist) positions. And what about the beat rate and the sound pattern? All ok? No other issue?
  7. 4 points
    DJW

    First time lumed dial..

    I will try to put together a walk-through of the process of dial printing along with creating the plate itself. Honestly I spend more time on the computer designing the dial layout then it takes two create the actual plate or print the dial.
  8. 3 points
    Johnnie

    What have I bought now!

    Hi Pip. I think it's a lie detector lol.
  9. 3 points
    Took another step today... My jewelling set arrived and looked fairly decent even though a couple of items were missing and if/when I need them I will have to get a few reamer replacements as at least one looked more like a corkscrew... :-) But the very nice thing was also that the seller had included a bunch of glass tubes with balance jewels and guess what, one of them was exactly the one I needed, diameter 0,9 mm & hole 0,11 mm! And furthermore, this dimension was one of the few obsolete ones in the Cousins list. After running through Mark's video on the topic again I managed to push the jewel in place. I have attached a photo of the new thing and just have to hope I got the depth precise enough as it wasn't entirely easy to feel when the pusher was sitting exactly on top of the old jewel and note the micrometer setting. Will now continue with the cleaning and assembly and a few prayers that the movement will eventually run. I'll keep you posted on my further challenges... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. 3 points
    Ishima

    Screw organisation

    I read your title another way, many in the field would seemingly agree, looking at their workbenches/areas.
  11. 3 points
    That glass will be a sod to replace when the thing is obsolete.
  12. 3 points
    Vich

    Berwick

    My projects are all packed away and I have not touched a watch for a while, apart from replacing a quartz movement like for like in a Rotary and putting in batteries for friends and relatives. Stuff is settling down a bit so maybe not long until I am back and in a position to contribute once more. Wandering by the bank of the Tweed on a day out celebrating our 42nd wedding anniversary and happened upon a small water spring with a plaque. Pics below.
  13. 3 points
    measuretwice

    A handle for a Levin

    I have a Levin lathe that was missing a handle - that was today's little project and I thought I'd post some photos. The blank is small, .220" dia and less than an inch long. I turned the press fit section in big lathe then switch to a Pultra and did the balance by hand with a graver. Fun work, sort of like wood turning. The one I made is on the right, obviously not identical, but good enough for an eyeball job
  14. 3 points
    Chopin

    Starter tools?

    case back opening tools (for snap off and screw down case backs) case holders (not always needed but they come in handy; I have a plastic one to not scratch the case) movement holders (very important; usually come in pair of 2s, smaller and larger; mine are cheap and can be used on both sides so 4 sizes in total) a good set of screwdrivers (very important to get a stone or something to sharpen them or a screwdriver sharpener) hand removing tool (again I have a cheap one but it does the job just fine; there is also the 2 hand lever version but I prefer the special tool) good loupe or magnification (one of those digital microscopes might come in handy) a watchmaker's mat good light source hand fitting tool (you can use tweezers here I guess... as long as they are not sharp or pointy; I use the sides...) a good set of tweezers spring bar removing/installing tools (various types exist) a watch crystal press (if you want to replace crystals that is; there is also a claw tool that can be used but only in some cases) a digital double digit pair of good calipers (for measuring and stuff) an air blowing tool (not sure what it's called; use this to blow off debris from parts; human breath should NOT be used to do this) polywatch or various other acrylic crystal polishing substances (they say tooth paste works just as well) a cushion watch/case/movement holder (can come in handy sometimes) good oils and lubricants oiling tools (a couple of variants exist) watch part cleaning substances (in case they're dirty or rusty) This is all I can think of for now...
  15. 2 points
    MarkT

    Hello From London

    Hi Everyone! Have been into watches for a while but always been to nervous to open up the back. However, servicing and minor repairs always seem to be at least £100's so it got me thinking that why i don't i just learn to do these things myself? I've always been good at fixing cars, bikes and anything mechanical so watch movements should be a breeze.... right? I'm eagerly awaiting my order of all the basics I've gone for a mix of mid range and premium tools which i'm hoping will get me off to a good start. and I brought a couple of watches off ebay with identical Swiss movements which i'm going to spend a month or so taking apart and putting back together - i'm quite a big guy so I think i need all the practice I can get just manipulating all these tiny parts! Will also be looking to start a course hopefully this year on a specific movement - hopefully an ETA 6497 - very conscious I normally rush into things so i'm trying to take this slow. Looking forwards to getting involved on the forums and learning a new craft!
  16. 2 points
    WillFly

    Will Swatch Group Monopoly survive?

    An interesting and complex read - which is why it has taken me so long to respond! The whole Swatch thing is about greed, self-interest and protectionism. Ultimately it will screw itself into the ground while Japanese and Chinese manufacturers will continue to be successful. Just my two-pennorth...
  17. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Silly jeweling question

    Jewels have a chamfer on the leading edge so they self centre as you fit them, so only go in one way. See pictures and more info here http://ihc185.infopop.cc/helphand/pdf/seitz.pdf
  18. 2 points
    chadders1966

    Bezel Remover

    Hi There are probably others out there like me who have bought the largely unimpressive A*F Bezel remover - https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bezel-remover-af-swiss?code=R31399 I decided to try and improve mine a bit by making it more stable, therefore able to exert a more steady pull under pressure. I used an old timex crystal tool I had spare and trimmed the edges of the rubber, and ended up with this: It now works reasonably well (better than before anyway) at removing rotating bezels from clamped watches, and can be used one or two handed - it's certainly a lot easier to exert even pressure and lift. It's still not that brilliant really as it could do with a bigger and stronger lip to go under the bezel instead of mainly using side grip. As per usual I rather rushed the job as I wanted to see if it could work. The ring really needs securing at the top as well at the ends, but it was too late to change when I realised this. Also I should have trimmed the rubber more neatly, but it is fine where it touches the watch. Stephen
  19. 2 points
    Geo

    Welcome to new members from the Moderators

    On behalf of "Watch Repair Talk" moderators, I would like to extend a warm welcome to all new members. This is a friendly place with plenty of knowledgeable people who have varying degrees of horological expertise, the great thing is they are willing to share that invaluable knowledge and help one another. To help us keep things running smoothly, I would ask all new members to read the forum rules and place their posts in the correct sections.
  20. 2 points
    szbalogh

    Soldering New Dial Feet

    You just found my video again Above i am shiwing an easy method how to find the point
  21. 2 points
    Ok here is what i did. I used a crown with a long pipe. I put it in my lathe and got rid of all but the very top edge so you can grip it with your nails an pull the button out. Ta Da:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  22. 2 points
    Boy do I feel stupid... while taken the pictures I saw this stamped on the back ''Open Through Crystal"! Wow what a way to start off on a new site! Duh... sorry Ladies and Gentelmen!! Embarresed in Massachusetts!! Mike
  23. 2 points
    AdamC

    Hello, I’m beginning a new hobby

    Hello all, Just to introduce myself to this group. I am just embarking on a new watchmaking hobby as I fancied a new challenge. I’ve always had an interest in watches since being a young lad and being promised a nice watch by my Dad if I learnt to tell the time. He probably regretted how quick I learnt and he rewarded me with a new Sicura World Time watch (can’t remember the exact model but it had a black outer dial to set cities from around the world and was purchased from Leslie Davis around 1972). I now regret selling the “broken” watch on an eBay auction about 4 years ago for just £13! And so time has moved on... I have always been patient and technically-minded tinkering successfully in car mechanics and have been working in IT for the past 21 years, so hopefully have the aptitude to succeed in the new hobby. I recently purchased a nice chronograph Tissot watch for everyday use to replace my old Rotary and then started noticing all these fine old watches on ebay. In no time I had collected a few old Tissots; first quartz movements and then moving on to vintage manual winders (and driving my wife nuts!). So now I have a couple of Seastar Sevens (one to clean and oil when I have confidence), a ladies 1969 Tissot to spruce up, not repair, and an old working sporty-looking gents Oris is on the way. I have begun collecting second hand watchmaking tools, mainly Bergeon after discovering the shocking quality of new Chinese tools. And so now after buying a book ‘Practical WatchRepairing’ De Carle and becoming a Member of this forum, I am looking forward to an interesting start to a new hobby. Cheers, Adam
  24. 2 points
    jdm

    Hello, I’m beginning a new hobby

    Welcome Adam. FYI, not all Chinese tools are of poor quality, for example a Chinese tunnel demagnetizer, 6 bar pressure tester, or bench case opener are perfectly fine and will cost a third or quarter of what Bergeon asks (which is some hundreds for these).
  25. 2 points
    clockboy

    Hello, I’m beginning a new hobby

    Welcome Adam, Plenty here to help you on what is just a never ending learning curve. Enjoy
  26. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Hello, I’m beginning a new hobby

    Welcome to this friendly forum Adam. Practical WatchRepairing’ De Carle you couldn't do better, its a very good start. Nice to know you soon found out about tool quality. Leave the Indian rubbish tools alone as well. Dumont tweezers are the best, for basic watch work I had number 3 and for fine work number 5. Enjoy your new hobby.
  27. 2 points
    Geo

    Hello, I’m beginning a new hobby

    Great intro Adam! I see the bug has really bitten hard already and it only gets worse. Study Mark Lovic's on line videos and make good use of the forum search function and I'm sure you will do just fine. Also remember that no question is too trivial, so if your having trouble, be sure to ask as someone will pitch in and help.
  28. 2 points
    jguitron

    Strip down

    The more information the better. Start with the one you have info on. While most parts make some sense when assembling, there are plenty that are puzzling. I recommend taking pics as you go to help yourself put it back together after the wash. Yes, power must be definitively off when you remove the pallet fork or you could damage the gear badly. If the watch isn't working then it's helpful to keep power up until that point so that you can assess where the problem may be. Use our peg wood stick or plexi to love the fork back and forth while you look for issues. Don't forget to release the power from that point on or you'll break a pivot or teeth or something. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 2 points
    Rafal, That is a good point. I think this covers two topics: refinishing steel in the modern age (Spoiler alert: 3M self adhesive Imperial Diamond sheets) ; and how I install regulators and cap jewels on balances with screwed cap jewels. I printed your email as a reminder. Easy enough to do; just gotta find a couple hours. But I will. I think I start breaking Notes for Yong watchmakers into subsections for these kinds of topics. First I gotta finish on the Sherline and dead center turns though. A warning to all; I take the Swiss a[approach, if the fit and finish and results are correct, the piece does not care if you did it on a WW or a turns or even with a file. There are lots of ways to skin that cat. I can only talk about what I have learned to produce clean, precise results. I hope you find and share others as you go along. Regards, Dewey
  30. 2 points
    clockboy

    ETA 2824 calendar not jumping

    What can happen and has happened to me is if you fit the wrong screw when assembling the escape side it is proud on the dial side and stops the calendar ring moving.
  31. 2 points
    There must be something that doesn't sit right in the keyless work. There is usually no problem with the 7s26 movements when it comes to that . Could have jumped off here at the black ring or the arm has slide over the clutch wheel (red ring) Which could happen if you pull the stem to fast out. But you need to take the dial of to find out
  32. 2 points
    rogart63

    Replacement glass for Omega

    You need if ou want a original omega crystal a PZ5000. Which i recommend. It fits much better then a sternkreuz. At least on a Omega. I think the 2921 has a crystal ring? That you need to remove first.
  33. 2 points
    JD Richard, If the steel was so hard that you had to cut it with a carbide graver then you will probably have problems trying to thread it. Pivots and staffs are not threaded and milled which allows the machining to be done with a prehardened piece of steel. For a winding stem, which needs to be milled and threaded after turning, I prefer to use unhardened steel (drill rod) to begin with. If prehardened steel is your only option, it would be a good idea to anneal it before beginning to machine it. david
  34. 2 points
    If it's specifically quartz (showing my bias, as I have a general dislike of Solar and Kinetic watches.) This is a far better proposition and currently can be had at £135 ! If quartz accuracy is your thing I believe these are accurate to 10 seconds a year Guaranteed Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  35. 2 points
    yeah the chucking end of drills are not hardened, and if they're hss you wouldn't be able to heat treat them. The ends are left soft so the chuck can get a grip on them. This one reason why you're not suppose to use an endmill in a drill chuck - its hardened all the way along itself can easily spin in a drill chuck because the jaws get no bite. One has to select the quench to match the steel. W1 is a water quench, O1 is oil etc. The differences are the speed of the quench - you'll get O1 in oil about the same rockwell as you will W1 in water. Oil is slower than water, cold brine fastest of all. O1 in water is too fast and you risk cracks. W1 in oil is too slow, you want get full hardness. Don't forget to temper though! Of the different tool steels, ie if not buying pre done blue temper stuff, I'd recommend a length O1 oil hardening tool steel (aka drill rod but not all drill rod is O1!). Traditionally a little more expensive that W1, the quench is a little slower than for W1. A couple of bucks for a three foot length of 1/8" diameter will last a looooong time and its easy to machine as it comes annealed so is also good for practice
  36. 2 points
    jdm

    Seagull movements

    Last year I bought two units of the thin automatic Seagull mov.t (same in size to ETA 2982), directly from them in their HK office. I brought with me a timegrapher, both pieces were spot on 0 s/d with less than 5 s/d positional variance. No need to say I was impressed, and they were pleased too. However, this mov.t is not cheap, actually the comparable Japan-made Miyota cost much less. And I know that even if they swear is not so, they do grade production, e.g. if uou get one in a cheap Chinese watch that will be of the lowest grade, no lubrication, assembled in a rush, little chances that it will perform like a Japanese or Swiss one.
  37. 2 points
    david

    Best Stock for Making Balance Staff

    Industrial supply houses, such as MSC, sell drill rod. It is stocked in hundreds of different diameters. The most popular types of steel are "O" (oil hardening), "W" (water hardening), and "A" (air hardening). The water hardening rod is the least expensive and is generally used in applications where deformation due to heat treating is not an issue. Ironically this is the most common steel for watch staffs. This is probably due to the choice of material available at the time watches were first made and succeeding watch makers stayed with the tradition. Oil hardening rod is generally used for end mill cutters, reamers, drill bits etc. and cost more than the water hardening steel. Air hardening steel has the least amount of deformation, is the easiest to heat treat, and is the most expensive. It is used in applications where size and geometric deformation is a critical issue such as stamping dies. Of the three types I listed any of them can be and are used to make watch staffs. david
  38. 2 points
    wls1971

    Manual Winding an Automatic Watch

    Manually winding an automatic should be of no detriment to the watch at all if it has had regular servicing. Any vintage auto could develop problems from not being serviced and manually winding, If the automatic gears have seized due to old oil hardening or no oil at all causing the rotor to spin as you manually wind putting strain on the gearing. With autos I usually wind to the point of getting it running just a few turns of the crown then wear it as normal there should be no need to wind it fully via the crown.
  39. 2 points
    Only my opinion. But I think the watch is very pricey for a quartz and if you really want one look for a used model. Agree with "Oldhippy" about the bracelet. At the price advertised you could buy a very decent Seiko Automatic that would probably have a far better resale value, if you ever wanted to trade up. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  40. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Best Stock for Making Balance Staff

    When using your pivot file make sure, you leave a straight edge right in the corner not a rounded one. If you do this will cause poor fitting and the pivot might bind in the hole.
  41. 2 points
    Marc

    Best Stock for Making Balance Staff

    It's a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question as it depends on a number of variables. I like to try and get to within 0.05mm to 0.1mm if I can before moving to the Jacot barrel/runner on my turns (I don't have a dedicated Jacot tool) although that can be a real challenge for me on the smaller pivots. I then use a pivot file to reduce it further before finishing off with the burnisher (my pivot files are double sided; file one side burnisher the other). The sort of factors that determine just how close you can get on the lathe are; Target pivot size; the bigger it is the easier it is to get really close to it without risk of breaking the pivot. How sharp your graver is; the sharper the better. How quickly your pivot file cuts; you don't really want to be spending hours on the Jacot if you can get a bit closer on the lathe. The quality of your stock material. Your technique on both the lathe and the Jacot. As OH said it's something that comes with experience and varies from person to person. What I would say is that even with a big pivot, a supremely sharp graver, top quality stock, and no coffee in the system, I would still leave enough fat on the pivot to burnish to size for the work hardening effect on the pivot surface.
  42. 2 points
    JohnR725

    Timegrapher Functionality Question

    Which timing machine are you using? Then you can't get an answer to your question as it's an invalid question. Unless a course I am totally misunderstanding your question then it may be a valid question. So first Link talks about mechanical watch testing And it explains how amplitude is measured. Quartz watches can be found in the second link. Unless of course and there were a few of these there were some quartz watches with a balance wheel. But as the balance wheel isn't driven by the escapement for the most part there may be an exception to that you have no way of measuring the amplitude. It is possible the timing machine is picking up the width of the stepping motor pulse confusing that with what it needs to pick up for amplitude and giving you a number. So typically a timing machine for quartz watches is entirely different than a mechanical watch timing machine. Although you can get timing machines that will do both. Then the problem with the ladies watches or any quartz watch without a second hand is that it does not step once per second. Especially on the ladies watches to save power they will step at a much longer time interval. http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Test and measuring technology mechanical watches.pdf http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Knowledge Quartz Watch.pdf
  43. 2 points
    Marc

    Best Stock for Making Balance Staff

    Take your pick..... https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/pivot-steel https://www.hswalsh.com/product/blue-pivot-steel-wire http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/parts/chap10/pivot-steel-0.61mm.-10pcs-no.72-0618007215.htm https://www.esslinger.com/staff-and-pivot-watch-and-clock-wire-rod-assortment-blue-steel-55-1-93mm-12-pieces/ http://timesavers.com/i-24049935-30-pack-3-00mm-3-95mm-blue-wire-assortment.html https://www.amazon.com/Assorted-Tempered-Pivots-repair-pinions/dp/B01N1SOLDF http://redroosteruk.com/11-assorted-tempered-blue-steel-wire-pivots-clock-repair-pivot-pinions-staffs/ https://perrinwatchparts.com/collections/metals/products/pivot_wire_43_2115?variant=37875445135 Google "blue pivot steel" and you will find more. This has been the basic stock for watch and clock pivots and staffs forever. It is a carbon steel that has been hardened and then tempered back to a dark blue so that it can be cut on a lathe. It is still quite hard, try and cut it with snips and it will resist, eventually giving suddenly and breaking rather than cutting. In the lathe though it cuts easily with either a tungsten carbide or HSS graver, although a HSS graver will need frequent touching up to keep it cutting with a good clean finish. Keep a hard Arkansas slip by the lathe for this. Let it get too dull and it will chatter, resulting in a poorer finish, and it will also cause you to apply more pressure to get it to cut. If you're not careful you will break off the work piece by pushing too hard. Don't try to cut it too quickly either, and don't expect long curls of swarf. Take your time and make dust. You will get a better finish and the HSS graver will keep its edge longer, whilst the tungsten carbide will be less likely to chip.It also burnishes well so don't try to cut the pivots to size in the lathe, leave them over size and finish in the Jacot tool. This doesn't need any further heat treating when you're done, it already has the right balance of hardness and strength for pivots and staffs, especially if you burnish the pivots in the Jacot as this locally work hardens the surface giving the correct hardness to resist wear whilst the rest of the staff retains enough strength to cope with a degree of mechanical shock without shattering. Practise and enjoy.
  44. 2 points
    Geo

    Seagull movements

    It's an Alpha. Made as a homage to Panerai Radiomir Chronograph, but not labelled or dialled the same to keep it from being a fake copy.
  45. 2 points
    Josip

    Shelf life of oils VS time of use

    Many oils have suggested shelf life of 6 years when they are bought new. Then again it is suggested that watches should be serviced every 6 years so. My question is: If a watch is serviced with a brand new oils... OR ...With oils that are near their recommended shelf life Could one expect there to be a significant difference in the performance of the watch? I mean, in theory, the oils are either 6 or 12 years old at the time of the next service. Let’s assume that the oils have been properly stored
  46. 2 points
    I (and others) use a piece of ordinary silver steel (1.2210, 115CrV3), harden and temper the piece to light blue color. Frank
  47. 2 points
    clockboy

    Spring winders - beat to death.

    If you see a "Master Craft" mainspring winder on eBay I highly recommend you purchase it. I paid approx. £30 for my one & I use it for practically all of my watch repairs. The smallest barrel size it goes down to is 7.5mm which is a small ladies watch. It is really easy to use and is 100% reliable. You wind the spring into its own transfer plate and insert the same way as when fitting a new spring. I have posted some pics
  48. 2 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    Lord Matic with its NOS crystal now fitted
  49. 2 points
    Chopin

    Starter tools?

    To be honest I'm an amateur. Only serviced a few watches so far. Almost all of my tools are cheap (each costs a few $) but they do the job just fine especially if you are careful and patient. If you worry about the costs you can just start cheap like me and see if it satisfies your needs. It'll take some time to get all of the things that you need but you can get there in no time.
  50. 2 points
    In this video I am servicing an IWC FA Jones mechanical wind watch movement.