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Showing most liked content since 02/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points

    My latest acquisition

    50 bucks plus shipping.. it's in mint condition. Also came with 12 extra reamers Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
  2. 6 points

    Another way to remove Pusher C clips

    I had a need to safely remove a C clip holding in two pusher buttons and thought I would share my method on the forum. I had a spring bar removal tool with a solid pin on one end and a scalloped forked end on the other. I placed a small bit of rodico on the bottom side of the clip and turned the C <- gap facing up. As you can see in the picture, I simply used the forked end that was the perfect gap to push off the c clips. I installed by getting the clip in place, C gap facing down, and used a #200 flat screwdriver blade and carefully pressed down to lock in place. I used the case wall to keep the c clip and push button slit in line. Don't attempt to push the c clip back on with the button pressed all the way in, use the wall of the case to help keep the clip straight in line. Hope this helps someone.
  3. 5 points

    Omega Constellation 504

    It doesn't get enough wrist time, but I wore my little (34mm) omega in to work today. Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
  4. 5 points
    machining, model engineering, some electronics, writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles). Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!) Things I've made: https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a My garage shop: https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm My basement shop: https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1 added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those. Am now truly out of space.
  5. 4 points
    Well this isn't really a walkthrough because I'm learning on the fly but I felt it was worthy of sharing as the story will probably return some good advice. A bit over a year ago I picked up a Breitling Navitimer movement complete with crown, dial and slide rule. There were a few parts missing and a couple of broken pieces but I corrected those issues in short order and stored the movement away for that day when a case would come available. A few months later just such a case came up on eBay and I picked it up for a fair price even though the bezel was missing. The case has some issues- for example the threads for one of the chronograph pushers were stripped out (note the pusher held in with glue below) and it looks like the bezel was removed with a forklift. I widened the stripped out pusher hole and pushed in a stainless steel sleeve which will be tapped to accept the proper pusher (2.5mm tap, pitch 0.20mm). This work was completed some time ago then the project stalled out as replacement bezels are about as common as unicorns. Frustrated by this I decided to roll up my sleeves and turn a replacement. The correct bezel is approximately 3.25mm tall with a 41.0mm outside diameter, so I started with a 304 stainless steel ring which is 6.00mm tall and has an outside diameter of 41.0mm. I've not turned stainless steel on the lathe before and was hoping to start with a softer grade (say 400) but was limited by what would fit in my three jawed chuck. Now for anyone who is thinking, "you can't turn stainless like that on an 8mm lathe" you are of course correct (for the most part) but try I did and with a carbide graver I was able to make pretty quick work of the piece- chips were flying nicely but OH BOY DOES IT GET HOT! About twenty seconds of turning was all I could do before cooling the graver; this is of course why you always see stainless steel milled or cut under a stream of coolant. Since my workspace is limited and I don't want to make a big mess I moved on to Plan B (which was actually Plan A because I never figured I'd successfully turn a replacement stainless steel bezel on the lathe). Plan B was using brass, which meant I could put the carbide gravers away as they aggressively dig into brass like it's chocolate. This time I started with a thick brass washer and my usual HSS graver. Pretty soon I was knee deep in shavings (which are useful for bluing screws). I turned the washer to a ring with an inside diameter of 37.5mm. A recess was then cut 1.0mm deep to accept the crystal on one side and the inner bezel ring on the other. The inner bezel ring (on which the bezel is mounted) is about 1.8mm tall so the recess needed to be about 2.00 mm tall to accommodate the inner bezel ring and the slide rule. Getting the dimensions just right was achieved by using a black sharpie and a scribe (needle in a pin vice) to mark out the cuts then constantly checking and rechecking the fit. Once a proper fit to the case and crystal were achieved I proceeded to cut the exterior of the bezel. The cuts were done by eye then checked and rechecked for proper fit and finish. The outside diameter of the bezel where it meets the case tapers to 40.0mm and if I cut too much there's no way to add the material back. The current status is promising- below are the pictures as it stands today without notches. I'll be cutting the notches this weekend using a fine round escapement file. To ensure the notches are evenly spaced the plan is to remove a stainless steel bezel from another Navitimer I own and glue it to this one. The notches in the stainless bezel with then serve as pilot holes to guide my file. Once completed the plan is to have the bezel plated and the case professionally refinished (laser welded, etc.). Even though it's not correct for this watch, I'm thinking I'll probably have the bezel yellow gold plated as it will be easier to sell when and if a proper stainless steel bezel ever comes to replace it. A few things I've learned along the way that might be helpful- Don't get discouraged- I was 95% done two days ago when the bezel slipped off the chuck at speed and deformed- I had to start the whole thing over again. I did get to test my notch making skills on the bent piece though and that's worth something. A three jaw chuck isn't really the right tool for this job. There is a five or six jawed chuck for holding bezels, if you can find one, I'll bet it's a lot grippier. Turning large brass rounds on a lathe is great for your confidence. You'll think you're a master until it comes time for clean-up when you realize you really do need a proper machine shop (separate from your service workbench).
  6. 4 points

    D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

    So I played a bit in Solidworks, and this is what I got. A friend of mine helped me with the 3D printing. sup_2.STL mic 2.STL pesa.STL sup_1.STL the editables: mic 2.SLDPRT pesa.SLDPRT sup_1.SLDPRT sup_2.SLDPRT ansamblu2.SLDASM
  7. 4 points
    Well among my other interests, motorcycles probably rank as high as horology and recently I had occasion to use some horological knowledge on my bike. Problem was the sight glass for the 2-stroke oil was well knackered It looked like it had been subjected to heat at some point. I managed to source a replacement but the closest I could find was a similar diameter but with different height. and when installed it sat a few mm lower (in the pic below the window should sit flush with the surround). Well I measured the diameter and found it was 28mm. I pulled out a 282 crystal and inserted it using the claw. a few taps and its now flush. Here it is in place with the outer cover in position. Its not as clear as a correct original would be and your eyes need to be exactly level with the window when checking but it will do for an occasional bike which doesn't see much use. another aspect of watchmaking was this caseback opener which I attempted to use to remove the locking ring.. unsuccessfully. This was eventually removed by the trusty hammer and screwdriver. Anyone else used watch skills/tools on other hobbies? Anilv
  8. 4 points

    Wedding gift - back from repairs, yay!

    My wife bought me this Official Cosmonauts for me for our wedding 15 years ago. It was my Grail watch before I knew the term. The stem broke awhile ago. Eventually I decided to take it to Right Time in Denver. Fortis finally shipped the parts after a couple months and got it back yesterday. Oh how I've missed it! I am really digging it on this new black nato with matching satin stainless steel hardware (originally got this strap for my Lunar Pilot).
  9. 3 points

    AS2063 inca variety

    Quick update... High power magnifier and a sewing needle soon made me realize that the ”hooks” on these springs are much longer than what I´m used to from the regular inca-springs. In my previous attemps I had actually never released the spring, just shifted it slightly. I attached a photo for anyone interested .... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. 3 points

    E-Timer escapement analyser on a Mac

    It can be run on a MAC using Crossover or WINE. However, you may run into audio latency inconsistency issues making it impossible to calibrate the software accurately.
  11. 3 points

    Missing tooth - repair?

    Silver solder would be stronger, but lead solder will do a fine job. First, find a piece of brass suitable for the job. You need to file a slot into the barrel and solder it in. You can use a spirit lamp and some flux. You will need to clean the piece of brass to use, use a emery stick to clean it off. With various needle files, file the brass into the shape of the tooth making sure you have the correct height, thickness and shape. You will need burr files or some people call them rotary files to remove the inside waste so the spring can sit proper. Test it before you put the movement back together, you might have to make slight adjustments. If you have never done this type of work before you might like to practice on a clock wheel, which is bigger to get the idea on what to do, if you make a mistake it does not matter.
  12. 3 points
    Oops, I did it again. I'm really trying to stop buying watches for a bit, but stumbled on what I thought was a very cool-looking watch from the late sixties/early seventies. I dug the "atomic transistor" logo, and it looked super clean. Being that it was in a monocoque case, and that I bought a crystal vise to deal with them, I decided to take the gamble. It just looked really clean. The insides were just as clean as the outside, and the battery checked out to 0 volts, so I knew one thing. Since this ESA Dynatron movement takes a rather odd battery, 344/1136, I had to wait to get one delivered. It came today and I put it in the watch. At first it wouldn't get going. Then I remembered that it has a hacking mechanism and the stem was in winding position. I popped into "wind" position and gave her a little twist and off she went. It seems to run pretty well but if the stem is pulled out and the watch stopped, it takes a twist to get it running again. I don't know if it's designed that way or the watch is somehow out of electronic beat? Anyway, I'm stoked on the watch. It's very cool to watch the hybrid mechanism that has a balance wheel that is impulsed electronically. I hope the video I took with my phone shows up. If not, you can take my word that it's running. IMG_0855.MOV
  13. 3 points

    New Member

    Be careful about Timex watches, as they tend to multiple and take up more and more space! Not that I would know anything about that!
  14. 3 points

    Timex Retrofit with ETA 2540 Movement

    Hey guys, not sure if you'll find this interesting. My girlfriend's Timex was fitted with a jewel-less, unadjustable movement, which was losing quite a bit of time. I picked up an NOS ETA 2540 for a few dollars, cleaned and serviced it and with the help of a trimmed plastic movement ring, fit it into the Timex. The sticker is a temporary fixture...
  15. 3 points

    Watch Crystal Help

    Ok No big news just replaced my first watch Crystal ...Came out perfect ...I thought for sure, I would crack at least one.
  16. 3 points
    Very cool - I also recently managed to perform a Timex conversion. Only this was to replace a quartz movement with a mechanical. This was done on the very popular J Crew re-issue of the 24 dialed "Sprite" produced from 1968 thru the late 1970's. Amazing at how well it all fit. Only challenge was to find the space that fits between the movement and the dial. As it turns out I just used another Timex part! Here now is a great 24 hour dial in all stainless case.
  17. 3 points
    I need to figure out how to cross guitar world with watch world...wait! I did use a .09 guitar string for a click spring and it worked great, duration to the springiness on the steel. Ta Da Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  18. 3 points

    Hardening Screwdriver Blade

    I debated whether to post this, it’s verbose and sounds like a lecture. But I see the subject wrestled with all the time and thought a summary from someone who has done lots of it might help you - and the next guy. Here’s imo pretty much all you need to know to get some successful results from DIY heat treating: 1) Drill rod IS tool steel IS Silver steel. The name silver steel is the common name in the UK, drill rod in North America. Also called carbon tool steel. 2) you HAVE to know what tool steel the drill rod is: O1 (oil hardening) or W1 (water hardening). Don't buy drill rod without knowing what it is. Another common tool steel is A2 (air hardening). It’s more expensive so less likely to what he drill rod is at the local outlet 3) Why do you have to know? The quench is different - oil for O1, water for W1, air for A2 4) Why the different quenches? Different fluids (Water, air, oil, ice cold brine) have different quench speeds suitable for different tool steel alloys 5) What happens if I quench O1 in water, and vice versa? Water is too fast a quench for O1, you risk cracking it. Oil is too slow for W1, it won't harden as much as it could/should. 6) Which tools steel is best? W1 is the cheapest. Most imo prefer O1, it machines well and is less likely to distort or crack in the quench than W1 7) What oil to use? Doesn't much matter. I use a mineral oil I keep after draining a machine tool’s gearbox. For the size of parts watchmakers deal with, just get a quart of hydraulic oil from the hardware/auto store (Canadian Tire for us canucks). Hydraulic oil is just very pure mineral oil without all detergent and additives in motor oil (which you could also use, used or new). Use a tin can, not a glass jar or plastic container. Ideally the oil should be warmed on a hotplate (slower quench for O1), but I confess I don’t usually bother without ill results (cracking) 8) is the quench dangerous? no, for the size of stuff we’re doing. It takes a lot of heat to ignite oil. You'll get a small plume of smoke that smells and that's about it. There are special quench oils with a high flash point available; they make less smoke; I’ve never bothered 9) Where to get O1? Any industrial supply place. In Canada, metal supermarkets, Fastenal, Granger, Brafasco, KBC - heck even some hardware stores. Catalogue houses, KBC, McMaster Carr, MSC and so on. It’s so common it should be like picking up milk on the way home lol. I would avoid ebay and offshore mail order, while metallurgy and controls have only gotten better, the same hasn't necessarily happened to QC in the developing world. I think the last time I bought small dia O1, its was $3 or $4 for a 3' piece of 1/8" O1 from KBC. imo its not worth going to a less than mainstream source....the mainstream vendors mostly sell to industry and that's your QC, business and toolmakers won't put up with crappy tool steel. 10) What is heat treatment? If the steel has enough carbon (is a tool steel), you can change its state by heat treating. This is usually done to harden the material. Three words to know: Hardened, Annealed and Tempered 11) Hardened. The steel has been brought up to its critical temp (1500F or bright red in sunlight) held for a bit then quenched. When above the critical temp, the molecules arrange themselves in a structure (austenite) that gets "locked in" when its quenched. After a proper quench the steel is as hard as it can get, and also brittle. 12) Tempering. After hardening, the steel temp is raised again, slightly, to let it down or remove some of the brittleness at the expense of hardness. How much its let down is (mostly) a function of temp and it so happens these temps correspond well to some colours. light straw through blue etc. You temper to a higher temp, say blue, around 600F, for something like a screwdriver - you want it somewhat hard, but not brittle. A cutting tool you'd temper less. When tempering you can quench to stop the tempering or heat flowing, but it’s not necessary for the tempering to work Polish a bit of the hardened steel so you can see the tempering colours, heat slowly, they change rapidly 13) Annealing or annealed steel. Steel in its soft state, unhardened. Except for special examples like watchmakers blued steel (which will be O1 or W1) tool steel is sold annealed so it’s ready to be machined into whatever 14) how is annealing done? Kind of the opposite a rapid cool (quench). Heat to critical temp and then slowly cool. Slowly as in overnight (a steel box full of ashes works well – use extra thermal mass if the part is small). With a proper anneal the stress in the metal will be removed and it will be soft. You'll hear of guys talking about annealing in much short time frame; what’s really happening is it’s a partial anneal - they've softened it enough for what they need. Residual stress may remain which could lead to cracking on subsequent quenches (if necessary) 15) Casehardening. By soaking a non tool steel in an environment (a bath or packed with carbon around it in a steel box) where it can absorb carbon for a period of time, you can get it such that the out layer has enough carbon to then be heat treatable. It’s then quenched. It is not usually (ever?) tempered. The idea is it’s an advantage having a dead hard skin and ductile core. The skin depth might be 1 -2 thou using casehardening compound, 5-10 thou with long pack hardening and 50 thou with an overnight soak at a commercial heat treaters. It’s good for wear parts, not so good for most tools 16) HSS – high speed steel. High speed steel is another group of tool steels we see, drills, lathe tools etc. Its great advantage is it holds its hardness at high temps, unlike say O1 that starts to anneal at a few hundred degrees. This matters as where one molecule meets another when cutting, temps can go very high. HSS cannot be heat treated by the likes of us, there is a very narrow band of tolerance on the temperatures and cycles required
  19. 3 points
    I wonder if its galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals that is causing the corrosion. Looks like the platform you hang the watches is stainless steel and the screw and C clip are just steel and the shaft is aluminum. All that sitting in water is a prime for galvanic reaction. http://www.anzor.com.au/blog/galvanic-corrosion-keep-those-metals-apart/
  20. 2 points
    New jewel fitted and looking good ! In the end it was pretty easy to fit. The seconds wheel now spins nicely with correct endshake. With the pallet out I still have some 'stiction' - usually the gear train moves with the slightest turn of the crown, but sometimes it takes a full turn or more to move. The gear train on it's own seems fine - spins nicely when I use the blower. The barrel and intermediate wheel also seem OK when isolated so I'm at a bit of a loss to work out what the problem is. Could the arbor be binding in the barrel ? Any other suggestions ?
  21. 2 points

    Vintage pivot tool

    Slightly different lathe, turret style, but the principle is the same.
  22. 2 points

    New Member, Requesting Advice!

    Actually since 15 years or so mechanical watches have made a major comeback, independent watchmakers make a lot of money, and the ones employed have excellent salaries. Go visit any watch fair to realize what a big, rich and flourishing industry that is. I suggest that you get busy learning how to repair (which is what they do in watchmaking schools), not just watching video or reading books.
  23. 2 points

    Choosing a balance staff

    I just started making Balance Staffs as i got sick of ordering them and paying 20us plus shipping for a small piece of blue steel. So far successful . Took about three months of using a lathe and ta da. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  24. 2 points

    English lever pocket watch

  25. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Seiko 7619 today
  26. 2 points

    a few of my watches

    some of my watches, mosty from Ebay
  27. 2 points

    Need crystal for Casio wave ceptor

    Detail of polished area, cleaned up and scratch free. Compare to my first posted picture. sent via htc one m9
  28. 2 points

    First time lumed dial..

    I'm very satisfied with how this dial turned out. I'm building and Elgin pocket watch conversion into wristwatch and wanted a vintage military dial look. I had recently purchased a lume kit but hadn't had the chance to use it yet. I design the dial with bold outlined numerals for the purpose of filling with lume. It really turned out better than I ever hoped! The first dial I did turned out very acceptable, except that I had another issue with it and had to start over. I learned quite a bit just from doing that one dial. Once I had the printing plate made I repainted the original Elgin dial to a flat white. I then Inked the plate and printed the new dial. Once everything was dry I then slowly added the lume using a 100 - 0 paintbrush which is about the size of a watch Oiler. I went around the dial 4 times adding a layer little by little. I'm very surprised just how much Lume this process adds. The markers have a nice three-dimensional heft to them...
  29. 2 points

    I never knew

    Len I have never come across this clock but have read about it. However removing plates from any clock without letting down the mainspring/s is asking for trouble. This particular clock requires the wheels to be wedged with peg wood & then the escape is removed then the wheels are let down slowly with the aid of stiff gloves and protection to your eyes.
  30. 2 points

    Pocket Watch and Jeans

    the vest; don't wear mine much any more, but have a gold "double breasted" rig, complete with a fob and a $5 gold coin. jeans are the thing now. the watch pocket must be big enough for the watch to be pulled out "without a strain" on the bail. vin
  31. 2 points

    Hamilton Electric 14K Nautilus 200

    You might get better feedback on the collectibility of the watch by visiting a dedicated Hamilton forum. There is one here -http://vintagewatchforums.com/
  32. 2 points

    Watchmaking apprentices training

    Find below an interesting article from my local newspaper "re- UK Watchmaking apprenticeships". "Watchmaking apprentices training 'by the end of the year' after industry secures top level of government funding" The UK's first watchmaking apprentices in a generation should be training by the end of the year after a business in the county helped secure government funding for the scheme. Industry leaders have spent three years developing what will be a one to two-year apprenticeship course, which will be eligible for the maximum £27,000 grant to help pay for training providers, assessors and to incentivise employers. Matt Bowling, a director at Watchfinder, a pre-owned luxury watch retailer based in Maidstone, has been a key member of the team developing the course under the government's trailblazer partnership, which sees industry professionals design training. The UK's first watchmaking apprentices in a generation should be training by the end of the year after a business in the county helped secure government funding for the scheme. Industry leaders have spent three years developing what will be a one to two-year apprenticeship course, which will be eligible for the maximum £27,000 grant to help pay for training providers, assessors and to incentivise employers. Matt Bowling, a director at Watchfinder, a pre-owned luxury watch retailer based in Maidstone, has been a key member of the team developing the course under the government's trailblazer partnership, which sees industry professionals design training. The luxury watch market is worth £1 billion in the UK each year and Mr Bowling thinks the pre-owned market is worth "at least as much". Yet there are few training opportunities for people interested in entering the industry, apart from courses with the British School of Watchmaking in Manchester and a horology degree at Birmingham City University. Mr Bowling aims to take on two apprentices at Watchfinder once the watchmaking course is formally launched, with potential to hire more as the business grows. Although a training provider has not yet been appointed for the courses, he hopes it can be made a City and Guilds qualification and is in talks with the body. He said: "There is a desperate shortage of watchmakers. "The reason I wanted to get into this is because there is a shortage of training opportunities. "If you are a good watchmaker you will always find employment and it's well paid."
  33. 2 points

    Economical watch tools (again)

    That is my point exactly, you're writing based on what you've read on the Internet, while I personally own and use daily many Chinese-made tools without any problem or breakage. Of course when there is no real alternative I'm happy to recommend against cheap or ineffective tools, once again disregarding their provenience. For the matter at hand, a Chinese crystal press can be $20, a Swiss one $200. Both will work fine when used correctly. Now guess which one allows beginners with any budget to approach this hobby? If you check out his videos, our site owner Mark Lovick never focuses on using expensive tools, he concentrates on practices and techniques, showing how the job is done by the person not the tool, and disseminate his knowledge without snobism or setting high prerequisites. Anyway, I think we've had this discussion already, now as before we can agree to disagree.
  34. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    @anilv You can easily make your own caseback opener. I've had great success a few years back. Sandwich wrap over the back, JBWeld metal repair putty pushed and moulded to cover just the caseback and a nut buried into it for using a spanner on to undo caseback once the JBWeld has set for 24hours.
  35. 2 points
    It looks like a common Swiss bar movement. These are tough to attribute to anyone, especially when they are not marked with anything other than something generic, like this one is on the dial. Maybe if one had access to Kathleen Pritchard's book on Swiss makers, one could identify it, but that book is pricey, rare, and may not be much help. I wish you luck on finding out the maker. And once you do, who knows how interchangeable the balance will be. Best of luck on your project.
  36. 2 points

    Home made screw head polisher

    So I just whipped this up down in my shop this morning, looks like it will work like a charm. 1/4" T6 aluminum plate material. 4-40 screws to tighten the holding plate, and 6-32 screws with jam nuts to adjust the height and angle. I cut the inital slot for the screw shank on the bandsaw to get a good vertical (90°) groove, then enlarged it with a triangle file.
  37. 2 points

    Escape wheel not engaged

    Yes the pivot is broken off.
  38. 2 points
    Every wheel and arbor in a watch must have endshake, or they will bind stopping then watch. The amount of endsahke must be enough to see with magnification, BUT should not be to excessive. The amount of end shake should be no more than half of the pivot length.
  39. 2 points

    lathe file rest

    They're both 10mm as you know. The threads are the same pitch/form/OD, but not the same length along the body (pultra is longer). Pultra (mostly) does fit Levin. Levin doesn't fit Pultra - the longer thread section I suspect would be an issue but the slot for the pin is wider on the Pultra collet so the Levin collect couldn't inserted. The Pultra collet is slight proud of the spindle nose when installed in the Levin - the large diameter is a little more than the Levin (meaning it fits but sticks out slightly, why I said mostly). The tapers visually look the same but before buying I'd try and find some documentation confirming the angle. Hope that helps
  40. 2 points

    lathe file rest

    Oh, and the 3-jaw chuck is a Burnerd made in England. It’s really beautiful. It was a standard accessory with my Pultra. Can mount bezels, crystals, and just about anything in it.
  41. 2 points
    cripes that response was illegible....apologies, I miss words when I type, mild dyslexia and this site doesn't let one go back and fix things :(. It should have read " yes, it sort of ended up that way. I do reflect though that I had just as much fun when starting out. Collecting and often reconditioning all the stuff is a pursuit of its own, but you don't have to have so much to make great stuff or have a ball doing so.
  42. 2 points
    Hey, I have a bunch of extra space, happy to help you out! Schaublin 70 is so cool.
  43. 2 points
    Yes. Ask for an electric guitar High E string.09 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  44. 2 points
    I have used my ultrasonic carb cleaner at the shop to clean stubborn stainless cases, but I didn't want to tell anybody As long as its good stainless it doesnt hurt anything. Carb cleaner is pretty strong stuff. Have also used CLR in my jewelry ultrasonic for stubborn rust on stainless cases. Be careful though...
  45. 2 points
    Well it is not a tool but a cleaning fluid. It is a concentrated ultrasonic cleaner (7:1 mix with warm water) for clocks but is also for cleaning carburettors. It is on order I will review when I have used it. Thinking about it, it is to remove old grease & oils etc so it should work & at £27.90 for 5 litres incl. delivery I thought it is was worth a punt. I purchased today from : https://mistralie.co.uk/products/ultrasonic-cleaner-for-clocks
  46. 2 points
    Mine says hello! Love how "tall" the hour markers are. Sent from my E6790TM using Tapatalk
  47. 2 points
    Here are some before and after pictures, the staining was just old dried oil, all over the movement. I used a piece of pegwood and a square of miracle cloth, and a soft round brush in the cordless dremel
  48. 2 points
    Restored, looking and running good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  49. 2 points

    F391 Technos Unknown Collar

    Sometimes there are little metal washers like these underneath the crown wheel...is the watch winding and setting ok? J
  50. 1 point

    I never knew

    The German Time Bomb.. Hi All, Can I give a word of warning about…“THE GERMAN TIME BOMB” S HALLER 400 day Anniversary clock, to warn THE NEW MEMBERS of the danger of these clocks. I went to an auction and bought one of these clocks complete with glass dome all in very good condition, got it home and wound it up, I started the balls moving, but it kept stopping..Not knowing anything about setting these clocks up, I thought I would have a look inside to see if anything was obviously wrong perhaps the spring was dry. I undid the 4 screws on the back plate, and suddenly without any warning BANG the back shot off, the spring flew out in pieces. I was very lucky, all I received was a gash to the palm of my hand, which was half an inch away from my wrist, the plastic wheel complete with some of the long spring, hit me in the chest, and yes it did hurt!!.. “Newbees” should NOT mess with these clocks..These clocks are dangerous, the springs need to be let down before any attempt at taking the back plate off, there is a way, but not with any letdown tools. Many people have had these clocks sitting on the side or on a shelf and without warning explode and the glass dome goes everywhere the plastic wheel disintegrates and that’s when they go BANG. Len