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JohnR725

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Everything posted by JohnR725

  1. Other tools to have would be a micrometer or something else to measure the diameter of the old staff versus the new staff. Then truing calipers and poising tool.
  2. Newer version of the catalog with less pages? http://www.sternkreuz.com/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf
  3. It appears to be that it would've been helpful if we had paid attention to a prior discussion found here? https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/13746-166026-omega-case/#comment-122709 So the very last reply by StuartBaker104 Has what I think is the solution to the problem. If you enter the case number in a variety of databases the decimal point isn't really a decimal point is just a separator and you need four digits. If you don't specify What the fourth digit is the various databases will fill in a number. So we had assumed that case number 166.026 was the same as 166.0260 just because we found parts for it but it is obviously not the correct case number. So for instance in the above discussion I found a link to Omega with the case number but we weren't paying attention because the movement was wrong and of course they filled in the fourth digit which is also wrong. So if you go to Omega with what we perceive is the correct case number we get the following link which seems to have the right movement? https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-cosmic-st-166-0026 The only problem is the dimensions do not appear to be correct for the crystal? 063PX5123 GLASS PLEXI 2N RING D32.94 H4.9 REF :063PX5123 063 DIAMETER D1 :32.94 MM 063 EYEGLASS :WIHTOUT 063 HEIGHT TOTAL H1 :4.90 MM 063 PROFILE :CONCAVE 063 SHAPE :ROUND 063 TYPE :UNICOQUE DIAM OF THE GLASS SEATING D2 :32.80 MM
  4. I apologize for the second link I had casually look to make sure I thought they would sell to the general public. Especially if there selling out estate tax things shouldn't be an issue. I know locally one of the material houses I do business with she will sell tools to individuals because she collects tax from everybody then on the matériel you have to have a reseller license or business license or something. But you're right I went through their fact thing and their very clearly wholesale. You do have to be careful on eBay because when I initially search for the number they suggested all sorts of happy answers of crystals that didn't exactly have the right number some make sure these actually really are the right number. The Poland one is cheaper but they charge shipping and who knows how long it takes for things to travel now if it travels at all. The first link looks promising and they claim it's in stock? https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?SearchTerm=PZ5315 https://www.ebay.com/itm/OMEGA-CRYSTAL-29-60mm-PZ5315-166-0257-166-0258-166-0259-166-0260/163304969306?hash=item2605bc145a:g:z8cAAOSwpLNX79w5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Plexiglass-Crystal-with-Steel-Tension-Ring-Part-Number-PZ5315/122320971295?hash=item1c7ae5e61f:g:bgMAAOSwjDZYg86U
  5. I think in my last message didn't I have two separate links For your crystal? Then of course there's eBay. Yes I just looked eBay does have them know they're not cheap
  6. Somewhere in the universe there should be a cross reference guide for Omega that explains how you're supposed to modify the numbers to find things. So as noted above by canthus I have more or less the same link below. Then with the crystal number I found some additional specifications for the crystal. Also found another seller selling the crystal at the second link.. 063PZ5315 | GLASS PLEXI ST RING GLASS PLEXI ST RING REF :063PZ5315 063 DIAMETER D1 :29.62 MM 063 EYEGLASS :WIHTOUT 063 HEIGHT TOTAL H1 :3.60 MM 063 PROFILE :CONCAVE 063 SHAPE :ROUND 063 TYPE :ETANCHE http://www.ofrei.com/page_168.html https://timeconnectioninc.com/crystals/2329-omega-crystal-063pz5315.html
  7. I've attached a picture of of the variable power supply that I use of my own design. The meter on top is a Seiko meter of course not made by Seiko and citizen also use the same identical meter. Really nice it has a 12 µA full scale can easily read a quarter of a microamp. There is a minor modification though to get stable readings when looking at current going into quartz watch you need a capacitor so I modified an additive toggle switch on the front of the meter to turn that on and off. Then I found a couple of other links for you first one is the bowl of a meter and a variable voltage power supply. The second one is Building a Variable Voltage Power Supply - Martin Catt. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/accps.htm http://www.pocketwatchrepair.com/catt/pwr-supply.php
  8. The reason why there is confusion over lubrication is because there is confusion. Before the electronic timing machine starting with paper tape first onto a digital machines. You wouldn't know the effect of lubrication so many of our early technical references or places where people don't have a timing machine things can get interesting for lubrication. But as soon as you get a graphical display you can tell if you've under lubricated that does show up. The add-in amplitude and they can really see the effect of poor lubrication. Always amusing if you have a group of watchmakers that supposedly should know what they're doing and to discuss escapement lubrication. Then there is another problem are you timing your watches properly? The reason I ask if you know how to time your watch is when you initially wind it up you can wind it up really tight if you're not careful and even if you do wind it up to the end it's going to have a little more power. If you look at a variety of the manufacturers such as Omega's recommendation "Measures to be made between 30 and 90 minutes after fully winding.". Or time module which is Seiko's OEM division their recommendation is "Measurement should be done within 10~60 minutes after fully wound up.", ETA Is interesting in that it has its technical guides but it also has for a lot of their watches manufacturing information sheet where you find all sorts of interesting technical specifications like this "All check are made without the calendar in function and chrono not coupled. The check has to be done at full winding, referred to as 0 h, after 1 to 3 hours running." Then yes like lubrication of the escapement there does seem to be some minor variations in how to do timing. So it appears to be the quickest would be 10 minutes followed by 30 then one hour depending upon who you look at. Personally I usually find 15 minutes to 30 minutes works fine. Then the other aspect of this is what is the watch doing at 24 hours later. Most the watch companies not all will publish what they expect that 24 hours and not always concerned about when it's wound up but they are concerned about whether it can run 24 hours without an issue.
  9. Attached PDF starting on page 13 another method. What happens if you wind the watch back up? 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins uk.pdf
  10. It's amazing what you can do with basic electronic test equipment. For instance I use a $20 digital volt ohm meter to check coil resistance. Or battery voltage can be checked I'm not usually concerned about doing battery voltage with load testing. To understand quartz watch testing I've attached a file and a couple of links. The first link is here because I wanted to see a picture of the watch you're working on. You'll notice that conveniently test points have been marked which is more common to find on Swiss watches. The second link talks about quartz watch theory and a test procedure which I recommend a minor deviation from. The attached file unfortunately is not your watch but similar physical size. In the attached PDF the first test is checking the battery voltage with the battery in the watch. That is the variation from the witschi's removing the battery and checking it. It's always best if you can check that powers actually getting to the circuit board versus checking the battery out of the watch. One test it's missing is checking for impulses because on this particular watch you can't get to the coil leads from the outside. If you can actually get to where the coil leads are an analog meter works really well much better than a digital. I like an analog meter because when it receives the impulse the needle will switch one direction or the other depending upon the polarity. Where digital meters just tend to jump because the pulses too short. Then for the rest the testing in a little more complicated perhaps. Measure current consumption you need a really sensitive meter typically today everybody is using digital because it's hard to get really sensitive analog meters. Not that they didn't exist At one time Bulova had a really nice meter citizen and Seiko had meters. But finding an analog meter they can read a fraction of a micro amp is challenging today. Then it be really nice to the variable voltage power supply to complete the rest of the tests. You could use the watch battery for at least the current consumption test. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA-ESA_978_002 http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Knowledge Quartz Watch.pdf ETA_ETA 976.001.pdf
  11. I went looking for something else related to the watch and found the link below. Normally replacement movement arts always exactly the same but it looks like this movement was meant to be an exact replacement. As long as the dial feeder in the right place in the thickness is right that should fit the case and if it said it was made to be an exact replacement what have you got to lose. How do you know if the problem is not mechanical? https://www.esslinger.com/harley-ronda-2-hand-quartz-watch-movement-hq751e-hq978-o-a-3-7mm-to-replace-eta-978-002-and-eta-578-004/
  12. I don't think we have any limits on alcohol mainly because we have none. That's because they want to use it to make hand sanitizer. I noticed that some stores like Costco that has a pretty lenient return policy will no longer take back the stuff people are hoarding. Of course that probably does not stop them from buying it as fast as they can. But now they do have limits which might slow things down perhaps. I find we have several interesting problems. As everybody is sent home that means now homes have to be stocked with all those necessary supplies versus using wherever you go in the day. Then if you see on the news that there's a shortage of something it's your duty when you go to the store to clean out the shelves of whatever is in short supply so you don't miss out. Plus while you're there Purchase anything else you think you might need you may never get back to the store ever again.
  13. Missing from your photographs is the stem we really need a picture of the stem. Excluding important components is not helpful for proper answers. Then I'm attaching a tech sheet unfortunately it's not for your watch it's here so were all on the same page for terminology. It is one of my amusing things I find in horology is terminology. Depending upon where you are and age of whatever you're looking at parts will have differing names for the same part. It would also been helpful to have a much closer detailed photographs so I snipped out sections out in your photograph. Looking at the right-hand image the detent which I would call it or the setting lever appears to be that it's associated screw has been unscrewed. This would allow you to remove the stem. We can see that the stem is missing and that the sliding pinion Is in the setting position. The setting lever jumper is holding everything in place where it should be. Then on the left-hand image it appears to be that the detent/setting lever screw is firmly in place. This is a very bad place to be if you're trying to remove a stem or inserting a stem. I'm not saying you can't do it it just wouldn't be good. Then because the setting lever jumper is broken the sliding pinion appears to be not quite where it should be. But this gives us an opportunity? It is really fuzzy but it appears to be that part of your stem is still in place the square part? A lot of this will depend upon the watch, if you attempt to release the power by holding on to the ratchet wheel screw sometimes it will break off. Another common method is to remove the balance wheel. Then the bridge holding the pallet fork in and be very careful when removing the pallet fork that you don't drop it back in the spinning train. There is no problem with letting the gear train spin down providing nothing is blocking when it's spinning. Unfortunately your options of safely removing the power without a stem does not give you a lot of choices. ETA 6497-2 Technical Communication.pdf
  14. Just to clarify because I'm confused? So you have a movement that you've changed the battery it didn't work. Then you bought a new circuit board which also didn't work? So basically this means that you have one movement and two defective circuit boards? Then how do you know it's not a mechanical problem with the watch itself?
  15. From the picture it's a classic ceramic variable capacitor. This is where having test equipment for electric watches would come in handy. Like a timing machine that can pick up the frequency of the quartz crystal oscillating. Then when you're playing with your trimmer you could see if that has any effect. You do want to be careful with the trimmer they can be broken if you press too hard. Then just to make sure were all on the same page of which is the trimmer capacitor I've extracted the image from your picture. You'll notice on the image the silver colored part is one half of the plate of the capacitor. Underneath is the other half bringing them together parallel gives you your maximum capacitance.
  16. It's still all depends upon where you live and the confusing rules. For instance I'm currently reading the UK rules three weeks all nonessential businesses close down. It's the interpretation of what you read that is interesting?. So that says your watch business has to be closed as it's considered nonessential. I've quoted the main paragraph down below and this interesting section " travel to and from work “when absolutely necessary," So as somebody else pointed out if you're in the UK and you have a backlog of watches and you deem its absolute necessary you can go to work. "However, people will be allowed to leave their homes to shop for the “very basic necessities," to do exercise once a day, for medical reasons, to provide care to a person in need, and to travel to and from work “when absolutely necessary,” he added. Gatherings of more than two people in public would be barred." Your plan looks fine providing you're in the UK but one minor little flaw? The reference about the age group? This is like the pictures of Florida spring break continued with all the young people that are not considered the age group yet at least five of them supposedly have the virus. Right now there's too much unknowns. But otherwise the rest your plan is fine. It probably would be much better though if you had a watch bench at home and you could take your work home with you.
  17. The problem is we can't answer the question it depends upon where you live. Then we also have the rules keep changing. For instance I live in the state of Washington I believe we might I had the first death in the US from the virus. Basically what they're trying to do is slow the spread of the disease unfortunately can't stop it they're just trying to slow it down its overloading the health care system. So slowly all sorts of things were terminated. It was visible in that freeway traffic has dropped almost nothing sort of? Places like malls the number of people there of dropped to nothing Monday there was nothing in the mall but I work at. The store manager and me were questioning our sanity of even coming to work. But that problem is solved now the governor was unhappy that not everybody was staying home so an executive order was issued I've pasted the text below. "The proclamation states it’s still safe for people to go outside as long as they remain at least six feet from each other. Grocery stores, doctor’s offices and other essential businesses will remain open. People can still participate in activities such as bike rides, gardening, and dog walking — as long as they follow social distancing rules." So watch repair in the state of Washington would not be considered an essential business at least to the governor. So if you are caught driving your vehicle all by yourself to your business they haven't quite formulated what the penalties would be but it really wouldn't Be in your best interest to do so.
  18. I found another picture of your movement online just to compare. To understand things better I found some patents for you. The second link is for watch design similar to yours but not exact. But the concept ideas are they are you should build identify the components from this patent. The third link is for the stepping motor. So you end up with a semi flexible circuit board. Flexible in some places stiff in others. I'm reasonably sure the green covering is a protective insulation whether or not there is any clear insulation anywhere else I can't tell from the photographs. If I was measuring the coil resistance I would try to measure the gold connecting posts or pins that are sticking up as they shouldn't have any insulation on them. Then the first link unfortunately is not your watch but it does show what happens when you take the circuit board of. Unfortunately the clips found on this watch look much easier to remove than yours. So I'm guessing from the pictures in the patent that once the circuit board comes off should be a couple of screws and you can remove the entire stepping motor. Unfortunately with these early designs of embedded coils probably isn't much you can do if you're coil is open. The only other thing I saw that I had a minor concern of and I can't see from your photograph is the negative battery contact. You can see a nice contact surface but the part where it goes up to the circuit board should be insulated their otherwise it's going to touch the outer shell the battery in short the battery out. The way you can check for this is on the drawing of tests it shows measuring the battery voltage with the battery in the watch on the circuit board itself. http://www.crazywatches.pl/jaeger-le-coultre-gp352-master-quartz-1972 https://patents.google.com/patent/US3778999?oq=US3778999 https://patents.google.com/patent/US3747320A/en?oq=US3747320
  19. I don't think there is one source of all PDFs related to watch repair in the universe. This is because it would take up a sizable quantity is space I have a moderate collection which is at 20 GB. Of discs I've bought over the years from eBay and a variety of sources downloaded etc. So most people don't have the bandwidth the store 20+ gigabytes of tech sheets.Then this doesn't even really scratch the surface of datasheets sometimes the answer questions on this group I have to physically scan something as it's not PDF anywhere. It would be nice if there was some magical source in the universe that had all known horological datasheets but it just doesn't exist. So for pocket watches there is the pocket watch database found at the link below. Notice under the title various watch company names? So under each of these are subcategories of the various things that have been accumulated. Like for instance blank number two the Elgin Logs. If you scroll down far enough you get to one of the material guides inches length three. Then this is by no means all of the Elgin stuff. I purchased a disk off of eBay that has a 1915 illustrated Elgin parts guide which is really nice because the 1927 just has the part numbers. Did you notice in nickelsilver's Reply above the reference to things might've been changed over time? Working on vintage watches is interesting it's not black and white like modern watches were parts interchange where a predictable happy outcome is almost guaranteed it just doesn't Necessarily happen with vintage even if you think you know what you're doing. The fourth link something interesting to watch. So I've given you some stuff to get started. Then my brain just isn't processing the rest your questions due to being distracted by rumors of a plague affecting the universe. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/ https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/guide/company/elgin/catalogs https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/guide/company/elgin/catalogs/elgin-watch-co-material-catalog-c.1927 https://youtu.be/ys4ChOWYNy8
  20. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=GP_641 GP-641.PDF
  21. Balance staffs for Elgin watches are always a challenge, pivots are not necessarily a prime problem right now? Elgin balance staff numbers are interesting in that one number can refer to a whole bunch of different staffs not just pivots size variation. So for instance is This a old-style or a new style I'm going to attach snippets out of various PDFs. So first problem I'm having is from the normal source I look at its indicating it's a single roller but yet your picture is showing a double roller? This then requires going to a different book to find out it could be both? So I'm attached additional images it looks like it's not a problem it's listed as a single roller staff but it can have a double roller. The first step with replacing a balance staff is measuring the old staff. This will avoid any unnecessary complication of problems later on or surprises. So remove the hairspring and the rollers. Then also depends on how you're going to remove the staff? If you're going to cut the staff out before you do so you need to take all of your measurements. Otherwise you can attempt to knock the staff out and take your measurements after. There are two purposes of measuring the staff first to verify what which staff that is second to measure the new staff to verify it has all the same dimensions. So differentiate between the two staffs it appears to be the total length and the hub size. You'll have to guess on the total length which is problematic without pivots if you're lucky the hub size will give you a clue. Then as you can see four different pivots sizes. This is where having a watchmaker's lathe is really nice in that if you're lucky you'll get the biggest size you can shrink to the smaller size if necessary. But as a guess because this is a seven jewel watch it probably has larger pivots. Then if you think this is complicated celebrate that you don't have the 18 size staff number 857. It comes in four different variations with some of those having up to five different pivots sizes. Most of the watch companies have unique numbers for each of their staffs not Elgin unfortunately.
  22. I'm guessing it's one of the other problems of whatever this is that's masquerading like a timing machine? According to the site below it's not a 21,600 bph watch. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Wostok_2416B
  23. Congratulations you've learned one of the most important lessons of all in watch repair.
  24. Always helpful to give a little more information like company name? So one way to find tech sheets is just to do a search online.. Then you find things like the discussion at the first link where they explain why you're not getting a service manual. Looks like to get the parts list you do need to join the group but if you're servicing Seiko is well worth it. Or it go to places like cousins and sometimes they might have which are seeking so I have a link for that.. Then if you're also looking for tech sheets the third link is rather nice. So no tech manual appears to be available the parts lists are and I've attached those. https://www.thewatchsite.com/34-watchmaking-tinkering/130314-seiko-5126-5106-technical-sheet.html https://www.cousinsuk.com/ https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/files 7310_Seiko 5106A - Parts List.pdf 5126A.pdf
  25. Out of curiosity did you record before and after amplitude numbers?
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