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  2. Geo

    G'day, I'm Duncanbootmaker

    Hi Duncan, welcome aboard. I love the wooden frame that you have made for driving the turns an rather stylish piece of micro turning. You are obviously a craftsman with stylish artistic flair, and I look forward to seeing more of your endeavours in the future.
  3. ecodec

    G'day, I'm Duncanbootmaker

    Hi, welcome and all good wishes. I gave all that gear away years ago that was left to me as I will not get into that depth of work !. Nice bit of turning. If I cannot obtain an essential spare part the job does not get done. Best regards, Mike the Jobber.
  4. Hi @StuartBaker104 - you've obviously done your bronze research but just thought I'd add in something for consideration... I know you're looking at phosphor bronzes in the main but there are also silicon bronzes. A good overview here ... https://www.avivametals.com/collections/silicon-bronze ... mentions "offers added strength in conjunction with the self-lubricity of silicon for excellent bearing and load properties". Handily, because silicon bronze is used for brazing, then rods of 1.6mm and 1.0mm OD can be sourced ... just the OD dimensions you need.
  5. Today
  6. Alaskamick

    Fitting a watch crystal

    Hi JerseyMo, It's a snap back.
  7. rodabod

    Opinions on tools

    Someone once said "your tweezers become your hands" since we don't tend to handle parts directly. I own some cheap tweezers and can't imagine having to use them regularly for handling movement parts (or balance cocks!). You need good tweezers in my opinion, preferably something like Dumont. I do dress all of my tweezers, but with the cheaper ones it is a false economy for me.
  8. clockboy

    Hello, All! ...New Member / First post...

    Welcome and enjoy the forum. Magnetism is very bad for watches.
  9. clockboy

    G'day, I'm Duncanbootmaker

    Welcome, Enjoy the forum.
  10. StuartBaker104

    Help finding lathe collets

    RDG tools sells an 8mm drawbar that has a thread to fit Boley collets, and a few accessories to go with it. Worth just checking the cone angle on the headstock is a reasonable match before you go ahead
  11. oldhippy

    Urgos Grandfather Clock

    You wont be disappointed. I’m not sure if Laurie still writes for the Clocks magazine.
  12. oldhippy

    G'day, I'm Duncanbootmaker

    Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. That is a nice bit of turning. How do you cope with all those poisonous creepy crawlies?
  13. The return lever jumps out of clutch groove. If this was an ordinary eta I would go as far as bending the return lever. On a tudor however it may come down to removal and inspection of all part in set mechanism as well as the hole in the mainplate where stems enter it. I look upon a tudor as a jewel. So awaiting pic of the actual piece from cduke. Regards joe
  14. duncanbootmaker

    G'day, I'm Duncanbootmaker

    G'day All, I hope I've got this worked out and this is how I do an introduction My lovely wife and I live in a small country town in the bottom right of Australia. I'm a bespoke shoemaker using pre-industrial hand methods, including all hand sewn, due to a constant fascination with the old ways of hand-making stuff, the more intricate the better, which, coupled with an engineering turn of mind, leads towards being interested in Watchmaking My wife has given me over the years, a small 1950's Flexispeed lathe, and an 1800's, L. Hugoniot-Tissot Turns. The clockmaker we bought the turns from recently gave me two others that were rusted solid, which I subsequently oiled, dismantled and cleaned, and I've made a drive frame for them based on antique brass ones I've seen on the 'net, but out of wood. Am slowly collecting a growing array of tools and parts and knowledge. Just on the edge of the watchmaking 'pond' at the moment, but enjoying the direction it's going. Due to my work commitments, and life in general, I may be fairly erratic in my participation, but look forward to coming here. Here are some photos of my turns (and a couple of Jacots), before and after cleaning, and drive frame, and a bit of practice turning. Cheers Duncan
  15. Good advice, with the presumption that lever rightly is engaged with the clutch groove. It seemed to me however that Cduke complaining about, that the stem acts unusual dispite repeated try. I fully agree with yankee to tighten the set lever screw and proceed as he say. We never know, that just might be it. When it gets to the point where repeated tries fail to produce proper resilts, it gets frustrating, gets on ones nerves and that is the ingredient for ruining a movement. So , seeing a picture helps as it did when cduke saw pic of the keyless.he now is sure , he can do it.and that fearless feeling goes a long way, plus taking a look all components of the keyless to make sure only good parts are in when the back is closed. Cduke is hands on screwdriver .He pays attention. The stem has no choice but to function right. Regards joe.
  16. Hi all, any thoughts on the items above? I have completed a teardown and rebuild of the calendar works, which has helped with the sticking of the crown. I also noticed the day does advance when the movement is out of the case but there doesn't appear to be enough travel on the stem to activate it when in the case. Would this suggest the stem has been replaced with one that's too short? Also, in looking at the inner bezel, it appears like removing it and cleaning thoroughly might be a good place to start. Any ideas on how to remove the outer ring surrounding the crystal though? It seems I'd need to do this to access the inner bezel. Finally, any grease or oil required for this bezel to function smoothly? Apologies for the barrage of questions, thanks in advance for any advice
  17. Peet

    Hi there from Peet

    Hmm sorry @clockboy, perhaps this message is for someone else?
  18. yankeedog

    Fitting a watch crystal

    As for super glue... it can be removed with acetone.
  19. JerseyMo

    Fitting a watch crystal

    is the case a snap back or a screw down?
  20. yankeedog

    Hello! Tudor Cal 1182 stem problems!

    If you haven't got it already try this....with the stem out tighten the set lever screw.push in the stem. it will not fully insert, but it will push the set lever in.loosen the set lever screw about a turn, and see if the stem will insert.if it does, tighten the set lever screw. you may find that set lever now engages the groove in the stem and things work as they should.
  21. If the movement is branded tudor, in house high grade ETA ,it is a jewel. We should discuss every step, let us see the pics as you progress please and good new screw drivers of the proper size, movement holder makes lots of difference to perform repair neatly. Generally cheap movements are suitable to work on for less experiemced folks. The work is simple, the name of the game is not to screw up. So please don,t hesitate to ask and excercise caution, do not skip any point made, you will get your jewel working fine on your wrist. Regards joe
  22. yankeedog

    Fitting a watch crystal

    I will have to try that.
  23. philipk5

    Fitting a watch crystal

    If the internal diameter of the case measures 27.80mm then a 28.00 low dome acrylic should be able to be fitted using a "claw". It needs to be tight enough to provide some sort of seal and not fall out but not so tight it won't fit!!. If you use any sort of adhesive it will make removing the acrylic somewhat difficult in the future (probably next week when a proper case back turns up). Also make sure that the crystal doesn't foul the stem &/or pushers and any moving parts. Photos of your watch front & rear may remind someone they have something in their scrap bin? Hope this makes sense, and helps keep another watch in use. Cheers Phil.
  24. Yesterday
  25. Hi friend, Welcome to this fine forum. You need to De-Magnetise never magnetise. Or De- Gauss as it is sometimes called. All good wishes, mike.
  26. measuretwice

    Help finding lathe collets

    ok, I see whats going on. You used a thread pitch gauge that showed it 40 tpi . You can have a forty tpi thread of any diameter you want to make (in your case its 5.5mm), BUT the gauge you had was Whitworth and the standard for Whitworth for a 1/8" dia thread IS 40 tpi. i.e. a 1/8" diameter whitworth fastener will be 40 tpi and the leaf of Whitworth gauge assumes if you have 40 tpi dia is 1/8". btw its not a Whitworth thread but the gauge worked well to identify the pitch so mission accomplished (Whitworth is 55 degrees with rounded corners vs metric or imperial standard threads which are 60). Clear as mud? moot with a new set of collets and matching drawbar but I was wondering where the 1/8 came from
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