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  2. isfuzz isfuzz changed their profile photo
  3. Yesterday
  4.    JBerry reacted to a post in a topic: Which Watch Have You Got Coming In The Mail ? Show Us !!!
  5.    MrRoundel reacted to a post in a topic: Demagnetizer Recommendations
  6.    MrRoundel reacted to a post in a topic: Demagnetizer Recommendations
  7. vinn3
    are we talking about round wylers? the special crystols are hard to find. there were several colors. vin
  8. PeterS
    I'm going to have to do something. One decent desk lamp and bulbs high up in the ceiling are not enough for me.
  9.    sean1996 reacted to a post in a topic: [3D-Printed] Watchmaker Tools - Bergeon Style Prat Dust Tray
  10. oldhippy
    You are most welcome.
  11. adietcted adietcted changed their profile photo
  12. watchweasol
    Thats a poser, what I had fitted to the bench at on time was a four in line which used halogen bulbs the same thing uses LEDs now and fitting that up with some 2by1 and made colapsible so that it folds up. the multiple light array should go some way to removing the shadows as the lights strike at different angles, if it has a decent base a G clamp will fix it to the table/bench, food for thought.
  13. PeterS
    Yes, something like that might do the job. In many ways similar to the goose neck lamp I’m looking at. If only I knew what I need. The light in the picture I posted is very good (not the small one), it’s the fact that it is slightly in front of me hence the shadows. I can move it right above what I’m working on, but again, there will be shadows elsewhere because my hand and head will get in the way. I’m starting to think that a floor lamp next or close to me will be the best solution, casting the light from opposite direction. A head torch would be perfect but I don’t want to sit there with it on for hours. When I look at Mark’s oiling videos (jewels) it’s so clear, yes it’s a lot more magnified than my 12x loupe but there are no dark areas.
  14. PeterS
    I’d love that but I don’t have a dedicated desk, it will have to be an additional light that’s easy to put away and ideally not too big.
  15. rduckwor
    WINNER, WINNER, Chicken Dinner! You and Gene Jockey, the resident Elgin guru over at WUS came up with the same answer. I had hopes, but before stripped the entire stem out and ruined the movement, I needed confirmation from the experts. You sir, are an expert, and a life-saver. THANKS!! RMD
  16.    rduckwor reacted to an answer to a question: Elgin Shock Master
  17. jdrichard
    And drop the mic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  18.    measuretwice reacted to a post in a topic: Screwdriver Sharpening Tools
  19. measuretwice
    we're skirting the edge a slippery slope......how long before someone notes" $10,000 for a watch! wtf, my phone has the time on it!" . Point is we're in a space that depends on being driven by more than meeting just the minimal needs. There's a pride of ownership thing, but maybe that's just BS tripping. However the quality mix decision should also include "trust" and "pleasure of use" Trust means should expect the best performance from a quality brand without crossing ones fingers. Even though sometimes they fail with that, its far less frequent and there's usually recourse vs the low cost items. Pleasure of use is a simple thing I've realized after close to 30 years of shop experience; really nice tools are a pleasure to use and less nice ones are a frustration. As I do this for fun, for self actualization, I want it to pleasurable not frustrating. I've put together a workshop largely of the best stuff, but its been done slowly and inexpensively (truth be told, with a bit of buying and selling along the I really don't have much into it) through used tool purchases, estate sales, package deals etc. Its the old cliche, you want it now, great quality and low price: pick two. Its a personal decision, I chose high quality and low price.
  20. oldhippy
    No way will it come out from the back. Have you tried to pull the stem out? I'm thinking it might be a two piece stem.
  21. nickelsilver started following TAS vintage hairspring leveller use
  22. nickelsilver
    Ah- no, I thought the other pic was the first one after some "work". The first one should be salvageable with careful work. But if you've never manipulated hairsprings before it's not one I'd reccomend as your first.
  23. rduckwor
    OH: Case back photo per request. It appears that the case back/movement holder are one unified piece. Thanks for your response. RMD
  24. JohnHutchins
    I use this LED light. It’s small, standing eleven and a half inches tall. The top of the light flexes so you can move it into different positions. Sometimes it’s too bright so I tape a piece of watchmakers paper to the light to diffuse it a bit. Costs $29.00. I ordered it online from Office Depot. Picture is has the light on my workbench.
  25. Pezed
    So, I'm gonna try and post a couple of photos shortly, both Seiko of course for reasons stated earlier. The blue one is apparently called the "ashtray" bezel. It winds, works, keeps good time, over the last 8 hours anyway, the only snag being the day pusher function does not operate every time. The silver one is a Seiko deluxe which does not wind or work, in fact it makes a disheartening rattly noise when shaken, like something has come adrift inside. They were purchased as items for me to take apart and study, then hopefully reassemble, having cleaned and lubed. The ashtray arrived from India today, the deluxe arrived from Japan today, both were ordered last midweek. How easy these days to begin a new hobby, what with international freight, the Internet, and training vids on you tube. I may not even renew my porn subscription, this hobby could save me money!!! Next purchase will be a set of intro level tools, then to business.
  26. DFeryance started following Laser Printed Decal
  27. DFeryance
    One option for white is to use a toner reactive foil. This is what I used with success: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pcb-trf-white.html I didn't use decal paper for printing but used toner transfer paper. My presumption this would still work with the film-less decal paper. Getting the toner reactive foil to work is tricky though. It requires both heat and pressure. Too much heat and pressure and entire dial turns white. Too little and it would only partially stick. It also requires some brushing to remove any bits of foil left over. It took a lot of time, practice an patience for it to work for me but it is certainly possible. I wouldn't recommend this on a dial you only have one-shot with, try with a blank you can practice with.
  28. Pezed
    Ah yes, a coupla good ideas there! I'll go find a welder and cadge a rod, that's a cheap option. Thank you fellas.
  29. marcoskaiser
    Thanks, nickelsilver! You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing. Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
  30. oldhippy started following Elgin Shock Master
  31. oldhippy
    Can we have a look at the back. I'm sure the movement comes out from the back. That is not a waterproof case.
  32. nickelsilver
    Well, that spring is almost certainly a goner, it would be a challenge for a very experienced person to get it usuable if it's possible. Those little tools, in spite of saying "for all sizes" are much too large for little wristwatches. They would be used to twist the spring slightly, often near the stud but not necessarily, to get it level. Normally one would do this with fine tweezers if there is space, which there isn't always. Imagine coming straight down to the spring near the stud (everything mounted in the watch), and then tilting your tweezer a few degrees toward the balance center, and giving a little squeeze on the spring. It will tilt it toward the balance, 180 degrees from where you've made the bend. Those tools would be tricky to use for overcoil work, certainly not a something that would be helpful. And DeCarle's technique there is a little sketchy too... don't recall reading that but I don't have that book around anymore.
  33. rduckwor
    Early 60's Elgin 10K Shockmaster. I suppose one of their attempts at water proofing a watch (see the crystal and gasket in the second picture). The question is how to get the crown off (Its wobbly when pulled out to the set position and I am certain it contains a gasket) so I can remove the movement? Dis-assemble the keyless works in place so I can grab the stem and unscrew the crown?? Thanks.
  34. rogart63
    Cousinsuk have rods that are 1mm . I have used them many times. Otherwise buy some welding rod in 1mm . 316 steel or 304 would work. Solid pins 1mm https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/0100mm-solid-pins https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316L-Stainless-TIG-Welding-Rods-1mm-1-6mm-2-4mm-3-2mm-330mm-/253525155325
  35.    Johnnie reacted to a post in a topic: Your very first watch ?
  36.    Johnnie reacted to a post in a topic: Your very first watch ?
  37. nichod
    I received a Wyler 1162 from Dad for graduation. Just a simple, no date 17J. Still have it and recently gave it a clean & oil with new mainspring. Not in service yet as no crystal is available. I bought a PA460, but the inside is too small. I scraped and polished until it was too big! I'll order another and try it again... The original crystal is still basically serviceable but is green. Honest to goodness dark green. It had a green leather strap that got misplaced over the years. Wonder if others recall colored crystals? This is the only one I recall seeing. If Dad had just gone down another block, a jeweler sold Bulova and a new brand by the name of Seiko! Oh I had a Westclox pocket watch and a Timex before the Wyler. They are long since gone.
  38. yankeedog
    Alternatively you could use tinned copper wire.It solders very easily.
  39. yankeedog
    Pierre Chevelle. gran sport 150. My father got it for me about 50 years ago.A cigar smoker ,he got it in exchange for cigar bands from the Phillies he smoked.Still have it. I just installed a new crystal.It awaits a clean lube and adjust.
  40. marcoskaiser
    Dear all, I recently had the pleasure of finding a damaged hairspring needing care. My first! It’s an inexpensive orient watch, gaining 20 minutes a day. I am taking Mark’s fault finding course, and have other inexpensive hairsprings to practise with. I also got some vintage tools I’d love to use. Until now for me levellers were only the Oliver Cromwell people, but ebay never ceases to surprise... I could pass the first stages of correcting the coil, with two tweezers. But could not find a use for the vintage tools. Could you help me to figure it out? Picture 1 is the bent hairspring picture 2 and 3 the box of tas levellers picture 4 is the hairspring suffering under my tweezers now picture 5 shows the tip of the tools picture 6: from De Carle. Would this be the purpose of the levellers? The overcoil?
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