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  1. Today
  2. I knew that Ronda offers Swiss made movement and Swiss parts movements. Typically the gold colored movements are Swiss made and the silver are Swiss parts. Out of curiosity, I popped the back off and.... Ronda 515... Silver plates.... Swiss in spirit only, lol. Thanks again @yankeedog
  3. Well my Florida brother. I hate to burst your bubble, BUT. Your pro diver may or may not have a swiss movement..most likely it is a ronda 515...which may or may not have come from Thailand. Ronda,a swiss company outsources there.some 515s are swiss,some are Thai. With invicta it is really the luck of the draw. I like your kirovskie idea. Just be aware that that watch is not shock protected..so you can NEVER drop it.A quick look at them online reveals a movement that I think is a poljot 2409 with without shock protection...these movements run well for a very long time. A have a few that came in cheapo sixties watches,that run as well or better than my cheapo swiss watches of the same era.
  4. I just got this one and of course the crystal needs to be polished out, but the question is what battery did it take and how is it supposed to stay in place? Is there a battery holder missing? I can set a 39- negative down on it and press the back on carefully and it will run since the positive contacts the case, but surely that isn’t all there is to it. Has anyone else seen one like this? Steve There is a clip in ring inside the back cover that may be part of the answer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. Hehe You turn it a quarter and then lift its a bayonet fitting. Pics Up tomorrow Gary
  6. Yesterday
  7. I've had this Invicta for over a year and I just now noticed it has a Swiss made movement. Even happier with this watch, lol.
  8. Does burnishing a pivot reduce its radius? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. Speaking of mangling hairsprings, I was timing an Invicta NH35 I got from a pawn shop and my tool slipped and I ended up creating an awesome 90° bend in the hair spring. Thankfully it was only $5. I still have yet to order a new complete balance, it's on my to do list, lol. Handsome watch @yankeedog! I've had my eye on a Russian Kirovskie that has similar indices. I should grab one.
  10. Got them both:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. I have a pro diver I rescued from a thrift shop. It required a new movement and crystal. I considered the investment worthwhile. It's actually a decent watch which only lacks a screw down crown. Be careful when cleaning that dial! The letters are not glued on well..I now own an. IN C A. The daily watch today is what I believe to be a piquette antichoc..the previous owner obliterated the logos. It is running a lorsa p72a. Be careful when working on these. The hair springs are delicate. Don't let the balance wheel dangle. You WILL mangle the hairspring..Dont ask me how I know.
  12. The usual tools are adjustable watch repair wrench tool a jaxa wrench And the 3 claw wrench. After that I usually glue a wrench to it. Any other methods I'm willing to try. Regards Gary
  13. Any oil is better than no oil. When the 9415 came into existence it was specifically recommended for higher frequency watches. The problem with horological lubrication and the tech sheets are they could be almost 100 years old. More than likely anything in the last 50 years is going to seem like a relatively modern tech sheet. But the consequence of this is lubrication requirements specifications etc. have changed over the last hundred years which leads to lots of confusion as the tech sheets are all going to point to different lubricants. It also doesn't help that the various manufacturers have their own recommendations. So currently 9415 seems to be the universal recommendation for everything.
  14. Welcome here. This is a friendly forum and nobody drains anything from others, yet often we see generous examples in terms of knowledge sharing and even material help.
  15. Not sure what the "usual suspects" are but not having the correct tools does not seem a good reason to return an item.
  16. Hi Weasol I would put photos up but i bought the watch today. I have just tried to remove the back with all the usual suspects but it wont budge. It was sold to me as just been serviced. So back should have screwed of easily. IF i continue any more with it i may damage it . So its going back to the seller for refund. thanks anyway gary
  17. I have decided to join your Watch repair talk group after searching for a 2 way street group and people that have a passion for Time pieces not just to drain your knowledge,time and parts , I am a second generation watch and clock maker , Yes and clocks , Thats the way my dad taught me starting in 1975 and I continue the same way today , He was strictly watch repair until 1968 and when the quartz watch took hold he thought he would tool up for clocks in fear of a decline in watch repair , shortly after he started his clock repair he took on repairing Tube radios , Knife making , Antique Music box restoration and much much more ( Im sure Mom had something to do with it as well ) ha. My mother had the Victorian Antique Store and was the go to person on estate jewelry , Glass, Anything brass , Tiger Oak , Dolls Etc Etc . I say all this to let people know the environment I grew up in. Amazing and tremendous adventures, knowledge etc. , absolutely no regrets !!!! Except for when we slept in the van at certain shows haha. To be able to do what is your passion and make money at it too, AWESOME. And a job you can never master !!!! Always something to learn and explore. I have been very reluctant to join horology sites for the simple reason TIME and Respect . I have tried a couple blogs in the past and it turned out that people were not respectful of my time . I can not fix a watch , Clock over the internet or phone and Im not looking to drum up more work . I have more than I can handle . Knowledge , parts and correct Tools is how its done .As long as this group is a 2 way street then Ill stay .
  18. Thanks. Good info in these posts. It was mentioned in one comment that staking and jeweling are done with 2 different tools. Is that correct or are there combination tools?
  19. So, for slow beaters, 18,000 bph or less, what is the better option (if any), 9010, 941, or 9415? And do I get it right to assume that 9415 would perform better and is always recommended for anything above 18,000 bph?
  20. Check this thread: You should read the below:
  21. Hello WRT community! I'm Brian. I consider myself an amateur/ hobbyist watchmaker. My skill level is beginner. I hope to enroll in Mark's class soon. I have watched many of the free youtube videos and read a few books. I've been practicing dis/reassembling on a few ebay movements and some scrapers a friend gave me. I'm still working on acquiring some of the bigger ticket tools. This leads me to my tool questions. 1)Are the ebay $150 timegraphers any good? At least for my purposes? 2)Staking sets. Which brands are most common or easy to add on to? Which if any are universally able to be used with other staking sets? I want to get on that if it's not complete, I wont have a hard time finding the missing or needed punches and stumps. Thanks and hope to here your thoughts.
  22. Hi Jason and welcome to the happy factory < this isn't actually me !
  23. I've got another 2 en-route to me. I think I speak for many of us here when I say I'm especially attracted to rare, unusual and sometimes odd timepieces. I have a mid 60's, automatic, Citizen Jet, 25 jewel on it's way. For those that don't know, the jet has a very unique winding rotor where instead of the ubiquitous center pivot attachment, The jet uses a radially machined gear and the entire rotor is free to spin with no mounted pivot point. Finally, There is a vintage "Squadron" race/rally watch on it's way. This one has the pop-out movement housing and what appears to be the original plastic Rally strap. Should be fun!
  24. Hi by the way post some pictures of the watch back and front might give more clues.
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