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That is something else! Love to see it again after you have done the restoration....

When you have only pictures to look at sometimes its difficult to judge a faulty part. What you have said makes sense, after all its your clock to repair.

Hi Ryan and welcome.

I always advise to make sure you have the correct posture. I don't want anyone ending up like me.

"The wheel on that long pivot", is the big wheel you see sitting outside ebauche( sits on gear train bridge and drive center arbour) a rare and hard to find part, some folks are for removal/ replacement of it at service time so to inspect, clean, peg the jewel underneath, however, if it was to be removed at every service, its hole would wear out, so OH says" if every thing looks OK you might think about just leaving as it is" meaning don't remove it if all looks OK, clean in place. I explained part of the delima one usually face in my earlier post and am with OH, specially if you haven

You are my saviour!!! Thank you so much! I will check these links out!

Apologies for being uncouth- I've not put in enough effort in the community lately due to a relocation, health issues, children schooling from home, and just the general "2020 malaise" but I've got another beauty in hand that I'd like to share. This is a Jardur Bezelmeter (model 960), probably from around 1945, which I picked up from eBay this week. It cost a pretty penny too but it's a piece that's been on my wishlist for a long time and this particular one ticked all the boxes. The Bezelmeter has an interesting history- from what I have read it was marketed primarily to avia

WOW

welcome aboard! pretty new too. some cool people and lots of knowledge. enjoy.

ever contemplate these? www.esslinger.com/bergeon-7026-watch-hands-installing-tweezer 45 bucks at Esslinger, 41 bucks at Ofrei. Horotecs version is astronomical! again, I'm still deciding if I'm more comfortable with the hand tools or the cheapo hand press. I like that the press keeps things perpendicular. That seems to be key for me. between Rodico and these tweezers tho, they have helped. another thing I use is a tiny bit of rodico attached to the end of the tool tip that holds the hand. I get it to the pinion to get it started. pause, remove the bit of rodico then continue the ins

Keeping with the spirit of this community, I'm not going to discuss any business stuff here. I've shared my photos and notes 'cause I hope they inspire someone else to try to do something cool and creative with watches, and I hope my progress notes will help.

also on my radar. the going price seems to be 100 bucks but then Ofrei has it for 89.95. I have a fleabay special that works ok for 10 bucks. but is pretty sloppy, or wobbly so I'm looking for something a little tighter. I haven't made up my mind if I'm better with the single hand set tool or the press. I bent one with the single tool once but have gotten better. Or should I say more steady. the set of 4 by Horotec is the one I have. 48 bucks at Ofrei. I'm hoping the Horotec press is better machined. I just learned today that I'll be working back near my old machine shop so I might make my own

Go to 17:48 for a chronograph driving wheel being removed:

Ha, I hadn't thought about that. I'll probably go with some Sharpie on the back.

Probably best to use the traditional terminology to avoid confusion: The centre wheel (2nd wheel in the train after the barrel) is conventional and drives the canon pinion. The centre seconds pinion or "sweep seconds" pinion runs through a hollow drilled through the centre wheel and canon pinion. It just pulls straight out once the friction spring is out of the way.

So the center wheel lifts straight up? I really need to see a diagram:) I saw this guy lift a stem straight out of the center and then the wheel that sits on top just disappeared.

At 2:50 he's magically made the driving wheel disappear. Maybe the removal wasn't very appetising to watch. What Old Hippy means is that you must be careful not to snap the extended pivot or damage the wheel when lifting. Given that you can turn a balance staff, I can't see how you would have any problem. You usually either lift the wheel with hand lifting levers or a Bergeon Presto type tool. I prefer the latter.

As a dentist for 35 years, I fully understand what you are saying. I have spondylosis in my neck, midback and lower back. And the compression of the spinal nerves lead to all sorts of systemic symptoms. I've spent a lot on various furniture and support aids with little results to show. But my chiropractor said symptoms do improve with age, which I find is true to a certain extent. But the most ironic thing I found out from speaking to a Swedish company specializing in ergonomic office furniture is .... too much ergonomics is a bad thing. Having everything at arms reach at work leads

Welcome!

Those are cool. I’m sure they’ll sell quickly and you can invest in more supplies... I presume you serialize them? What’s your procedure there?

I have A-F install tools similar to the ones you have. The “trick” such as it is, is to select a tool whose bore is just big enough for the next pinion- I.e. the hour hand install tool should just clear the canon pinion and the minute one should just clear the seconds pinion. And be close to flat. Mine are slightly domed at the tip, and I “roll” the tool around to be sure the hand fully seats. I have polished the plastic tips of course and one of them I opened the bore on a bit. I’ve had good luck, even with Rolex white gold hands, which are mirror polished, curved on top, an

Landed a trio. Paid $0.99 for the two Hiltons, and the seller threw in the Benrus for free. Shipping was $15, which is my personal absolute limit for shipping, but I figure $0.33/watch makes up for it. Plus, they're all fully jeweled Swiss movements in stainless cases, and one was even ticking on arrival (with a wind). Another started ticking after I opened it up (must have shook something loose). The Benrus is DOA so far. It's open through crystal, and the movement looks decent enough. Didn't investigate at all, and just closed it back up though. Had to cook up some dinner before play time.

After careful consideration, I think solder would not work very well for this repair. The solder joints would be subjected to strain, which caused the barrel to crack in the first place and we know solder joints fail under strain. I'm thinking of banding the barrel with a steel strap which is placed with some tension. I'm thinking of using a steel zip tie, if there is sufficient space between the barrel and the 2nd wheel.

Is this a good representation of what needs to be done in the disassembly?

Hi all, I'm contemplating the purchase of a "Horotec Watch Tool Hand Press" after damaging a few too many watch hands. I'd appreciate any advice the group might be willing to share. \\\ I connection with my fordite watch dial project, I've been swapping around a lot of watch hands. This practice has been really good for me, and I'm now a lot better about working with watch hands than I have ever been. I'm currently using Rodico, the Bergeon 7404 Set of 3 Watch Hand Install Setting Tools, and a pair of Horotec Aluminum Tweezer with Delrin Tips. I'd say that I can successfully ins