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Barrel wall was not worn. Cleaned, lubricated and reassembled by hand, 'tut tut'. After putting it back together I was still able to induce the rebanking with the screwdriver on the barrel. The only odd thing I did notice was that the outer turn did not follow the circular shape of the barrel wall perfectly. That came away from the wall a bit over about 120 degrees. It looked to be caused by the shape of the bridal that I don't think was curved enough to follow the barrel wall, too straight. That might be causing the spring to dig in a bit and not slip, that's all I can think of. I will see ho

Clock A painted case is typical of one European country and is reminiscent of a Mora clock also from that country so I would say Sweden Clock B is a triple pad top verge fusee and is English Clock C is a German Lenzkirch bracket clock in walnut veneer case, these turn up quite regular a small movement in a large case around 1900, popular at auction and in good condition fetch £600-£800 with all Ting Tangs its the case that makes the difference in price. Clock D The model T-Ford of the clock world produced for ease and low cost of production for the masses typical American

Hpekala, thank you so much. Amazing, nothing written on it and you knew it. Again thank you .

China ML7102 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi everyone, I need help to identify a movement. Anyone may know this movement? The amplitude was too low and wanted to give it a try, disassembled, cleaned and ruined it. Now I am searching to buy a new one but I cannot find the maker and model. I have attached the photos of back and dial. If any specific part needed to identify, I can take more photos. Thank you in advance. Cheers.

With out looking at that movement in any detail I would say around 1890's. With these clocks it can be quite easy to date if the label is still with the clock. It is a typical movement of its country, crude in every way, nothing fancy but robust, behind those massif springs is a force you do not want anything to go wrong and end up with a busted hand. Still waiting for a winner. One is causing a bit of a problem, someone is very close.

I always would lift the complete balance and cock out and then turn the complete lot over and carefully make sure the balance was put out of the way covered and ready for when I needed it to work on.

Isn't keeping pivot seated in jewel hole risky? The pivot is safer if free to move and that is when its out of the jewel hole. A dexterious stunt I saw my late watchmaker show off, he raise the bridge about a cm while holding the movement and snapped two fingers of the same hand balance jumped out dangling from the bridge. The biggest advantage of dangling balance is both pivots being out of jewel holes. You can keep this advantage and avoid dangling balance. joe

If you watch Mark's video carefully, he lifted both the upper and lower pivots out of the jewel holes before he gripped the balance and cock as one unit. If the upper pivot is still in the upper jewel, the pivot could get damaged when using this technique.

Back EMF can easily be shorted out with a diode. Unless the chip maker deliberately left it out.... but we have no access to the IC schematics.... so we'll never know.

What makes you think that the coil burned out? I think you'll find the most common reason why quartz watches lose their coils is somebody changes the battery. The problem with getting a battery changed is the workers are always super skilled. All it takes is one touch a lot of times with some sort of metal tool and the coil is now open. The wires are really very very thin. Over the years I've seen an unbelievable quantity of coils damaged by external influence of other people. Then there is another possible problem which is the circuitry energizes the coil you have a nice magnetic field a

do the hands move in set position? Does the seconds hand move when the movement is running? if no to both that yeah they have to come apart and I'd be surprised if just a cleaning gets them going.

ok, that is quite a good hint. Will look at it.

Yes, I am keen on electronics and always curious about these small devices. By looking at the circuit blocks there is not much I could blame but the IC. It is quite unlikely that one of these caps is shorted. Could look at the buzzer driver transistor but I don't think it will have any affect on the oscillator. I never come across a faulty crystal, but I will try removing it and placing it on an oscillator. Will post the results here shortly.

The crystal is quite a common failure point, and I have had some luck replacing them. If you have no oscillator, change the crystal and possibly, if it still wont go, change the load capacitors. These are the two capacitors associated with the crystal, typically these are a few pF in value, exact value will depend on the replacement crystal. The coil burning out could also be due to crystal failure. My hypothesis is that the coil transistor in normal operation is only on for a short time, but if the oscillator fails the transistor may stay on permanently. This might cause the coil to heat

I didn’t get back to it tonight. And I think amplitude was higher the second session although I didn’t photograph it.

My original response to this question was before I took Mark's courses and observed his method. It's simple, doesn't take any particular dexterity acrobatics, and if followed, seems it would be very difficult to ruin, disfigure or break anything. 1. loosen and remove balance cock screw, set aside in tray. 2. gently prize the cock from its position, rotate only the cock about 20° clockwise. 3. put one tweezer tip below the balance wheel, and the other above the cock, getting a hold of it in such a way that the top pivot stays in the balance cock's jewel. 4. the most di

Thanks! Is the ergonomic oilers mean bergeon 7013 it have color rings its body? You started lubricating with it? Or have you ever use flat type oiler? Can you share your expirence more detail? Thank you!

Thanks for your stuff! Maybe your Switzerland oiler is Horotec or AF. The 7013 have pipe niddle shape like as little bit modified syringe's. And 5423 and 30102 have same flat tip like spoon. If so, can I understand 7013 give more accuracy quantity of oil by its shape?

Judging from the contents of your posts so far, you seem to be an electronics guy. Many things about quartz watches have puzzled me for several years. Like... how is it possible to burn the coils with the current output of a silver oxide battery? IC's seldom fail in other devices. It's usually other components like capacitors and power devices. Why is it that many repairers blame it on a bad IC? Many watch pcb's have through hole connections. Is it more likely that these have failed? How about the quartz crystal itself? Doesn't it fail?

I know that the angle and speed of pull out an oiler from oil is critical factor for how much oil get. But, from a while ago, I felt it was little bit difficult to control it. The oiler gripped very much or nothing It was very stressful. Maybe I need more plactice and training, but I want to know what is different more expensive oiler.

I use Bergeon’s “ergonomic oilers” most of the time and always when oiling pallet stones. Silly expensive, as most Bergeon tools, but still worth their price.

I love this forum! A canon pinion remover was going to be one of my future purchases. Always research tools - got it.

Once in a while you'll find vintage cannon pinion removers on eBay. I did and every time I use it (a K&D) I marvel how smooth and exact it it is even for very small cannon pinions.

When I bought mine the information on CousinsUK clearly stated: "for small and large watches” and ”adapted to all calibres”. It was not, and Cousins changed the description (added: "Can lift cannon pinions diameter Ø1.00 to Ø1.80mm") and refunded the money. I record a video about it...