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  2. It will be more cooperative if you turn the barrel, just lift the movement retaining ring and some barrel teeth will get exposed. Looks like the mainspring is broke.You might get by with a quick fix, that is replacing what is broke and faulty or give the movement an overhaul. Regards.
  3. Thanks @Nucejoe I've had a little bit of success turning the centre wheel. I've managed to move it on a whole 40 seconds. It does seem to depend on how nicely I ask it to move, it doesn't seem to do it all the time... A rather temperamental old chap it's turning out to be!
  4. You should you fit the stem dropping the movement from the above.
  5. Today
  6. Thank you Gaus, the videos are very clear. Still my problem is more regarding the specific Omega Dynamic case. Searching more I found some photo of the great site watchguy.co.uk with a similar watch: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/library?action=show_photos&wat_id=628 I got the inspiration that I can mount the hands before casing the movement. Still I would like some kind of reassurance that I will be able to fix the outer stem once the movement will be kept in place (i.e. not rotating any more) by the crystal. I would hate having to pop open the glass from a front access case to start from scratch Thanks
  7. YouTube videos can be quite amusing at times and just because they make a video does not mean they actually know what they're doing at all just as a reminder. Then two videos doing a similar thing still does not necessarily make it the right thing. The first video at 6:23 something is removed from the dial side. Then continuing on in the video isn't that odd there is still a wheel on the other side? The second video is very similar in a way although conveniently we don't get to see a lot because there's a finger in the way in front of the camera though so we don't get see the wheel coming off the dial side it's just mysteriously gone but when he's putting everything in the cleaning machine at 8:46 obviously they both read the same manual or did not read the manual at all is a wild guess there's that same wheel still on the main plate? Then rather than just give you the answers of why the videos are wrong I'm curious how closely did you follow the videos? https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/15397-assembling-omega-dynamic-case/ https://youtu.be/lt8tvzqF9B8
  8. The question of Loupes and binocular visors has been discussed at length before on the forum, so I would suggest you use the search function at the top right of the home screen and have a look at the many varied opinions and make an educated choice on the data gleaned, all the best
  9. Nice to see a local lad on this international forum (Penwortham born!). New to this world too. Just acquired (from fleabay) an old pocket watch movement and a couple of trench watches to experiment on. Pocket watch is a non runner but only £12.99 so can't grumble with that. Its about getting used to the parts and movements and cleaning. What surprised me the most is the scale down sizes of a pocket watch movement to a wrist watch movement. Probably an obvious thing but when you are working up close on them - it really stands out. Hence i would advise on a set of magnifying goggles or equiv. They come in handy with model making too.
  10. You could be right. I scraped off the epilame from all surfaces, and got everything spotless in the ultrasonic - naphtha then isopropanol. I put a tiny touch of oil on the chaton hole, as suggested by @rodabod, and after assembly it looked great. I had a nice circle of oil on both upper and lower jewels. But after 'exercising' the balance by giving it a blow, the oil on both jewels was no longer a circle. I thought they were Incabloc - turns out to be KIF 2, and the cap jewels are the same. Baffled
  11. Clean MST401 and not holding power indicate either a broken mainspring or power discharge at barrel arbour. A tooth pick or pegwood is suitable to turn the center wheel with, to turn attack the spokes and not the gear teeth, the oscillator should start oscillating.
  12. I've been watching this from a distance. I have done quite a bit of fine wood working, mostly of a luthiery flavor, but also some fine furniture. If all you're after is a gentle curve on a single piece like that, and you're not interested in repetition across multiple components or production run, you would probably find yourself best served (and best enjoyed) with a curved sole hand plane. Assuming you don't already have a profiled router bit ready to go (and your router is powerful enough to do such a large cut in the first place), the setup time on the router is about how long it would take to just bang out the same operation with the plane. You could just freehand whatever comes to mind in the moment, and it'll look great. As a bonus, if you can't keep it clean and don't want to follow with a scraper (same relationship as the plane to the router as below, but with sandpaper), your worst case scenario is very in vogue right now with the "hand scraped" look (even though that's not what that is). Additionally, planes are quieter to save your ears (I saw those amplifiers on the side of the photo, so you likely care at least a little about your hearing), and the shavings fall directly down and are easier to clean than the router dust which goes EVERYWHERE for DAYS. Just a suggestion. Do not try to plane plywood... It'll ruin your iron, the plywood, and your sanity. Practice on a piece of scrap wood at least to get your iron set properly, and generally try to avoid low grade pine (the alternating hard/soft of the wood combined with it never being dried even halfassedly makes it especially challenging, and no one really likes pine much in the end). On the tiny probability that you're in the Denver area, you're welcome to come up here and I'll show you the ropes. https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/convex-sole-block-plane?path=block-planes&node=4072 This is a new, high quality curved sole plane. It's a little small, but it'll get the job done. This is one of the first planes I bought, and I use it to carve archtop plates. Lie-Nielsen essentially reproduces antiques, so a used one can be found and rehabbed for less, but it's a hunt and a project unto itself. If you wanted to go convex instead of concave with your trim, you might consider a plain old block plane. Good to have even in a power tool shop. A step from that, if you're really good at sharpening chisels, you can make an ad hoc plane (there's a guy on YouTube that shows this... Something Sellers... Peter or Paul?). If you're even better, you can use a chisel freehand in a plane capacity (I did something like this just yesterday). Over a long distance and a large piece, you REALLY need to be good since there's not much keeping things straight.
  13. Providing you support the centre you could try and squeeze it down a touch using a pin vice. Warning without supporting the centre using something like a brass pin it will go out of shape.
  14. The tools for the job arrived this afternoon and we've got the back of the case off. Now time to start making notes of everything I can see and start taking it to bits.
  15. Good afternoon Ascanio, the Omega calibr 1012 is base on the omega 1010. Maybe this can help you. There is a part 2 too. And there is also this video with the split stem:
  16. Hi All I am having big troubles refitting the case of an Omega Dynamic watch with a 1012 movement. I think only who knows this watch can understand and help me. I had to build custom case clamps, they must be very accurate and basically just make pressure on the walls of the spacing ring, which lays flat on the front loading case. Spacing ring walls are flat, no grooves for the clamps. I get just "vertical" grip, I mean, as much as I tight the screws I get no reasonable resistance to the rotation of the movement inside the watch. Is this correct? See pictures where you see the clamps attaching to the spacer ring... The stem is a split stem type. After placing the movement in the case (no hands and no crystal fitted yet) I am not able to place the outer part of the split stem since when I fiddle with it, the watch rotates or moves enough to not allowing me to press the split stem in and engage it. Even if I eventually manage to do it, as soon as I operate the crown the movement again moves so the split stem releases away. Questions 1. Is it correct that I cannot prevent the movement to rotate in the case unless I fit the crystal? It also features a plastic seal to be placed between the crystal and the dial to make pressure, if I am not wrong. 2. If so, How can I place the hands and test them, without being able to operate the crown? I could not locate any video nor description online on assembling this very peculiar watch. Thanks for any suggestion! Ascanio
  17. Hi *, I met Bill yesterday, he is a former clockmaker and a very nice gentleman. Unfortunately I could not spend much time with him due to the COVID situation but i am hoping I could go back and have a drink with him once the danger is no longer around us. The GPO clock is I think not the one you would have hoped for, but I am very happy because now I have loads of stuff I can practice on. There is even a cuckoo clock there what I always wanted as we had one when I was a kid. We had a nice picnic at the see, and I even found a ring with my metal detector there.
  18. Hi Without a staking tool or punches it would be a ticklish job, But having neither of the required tools a steel block and a small punch you may be able to spread enough metal to effect the tightness. But take it in minute stages checking after each adjustment as over doing it will mean having to broach (ream) the hand hole. Take care Cheers
  19. Maybe instead of finding a case that fits your dial/movement, you should look for a dial that fits your case/movement?
  20. Hi, Can I check how do you close the collet of the watch hands without a staking tool? I have a upcoming watch that is on the way to me with loose hands. I don't know how to close the watch hands in order to make it tight and not loose. I heard something about the staking tool but it's very expensive. Even if I could afford it, I would not know how to use the staking tool. I want to know how do you guys do it and how and are there any pics? Thank you!!
  21. Now that you mention it, yes, Tmuir. I wouldn't have if not for your suggestion. I have router a bit that does a semicircle, I'll set it to barely penetrate the top wood. Enough to do the job. I'm also wondering how I'm going to slope the fronts of the prison walls downwards. Maybe a french curve? Template? Not sure yet. I would love any other suggestions. I'm just starting out, and not familiar with the features of a high quality bench.
  22. Rotor types and case backs can vary as well
  23. If you are not opposed to used parts try speedtimerkollektion. You can buy used cases in lots. 28.5 mm dial diameter is pretty much a seiko standard size. Pay attention to stem location. It varies
  24. Get everything spotless amd try again. If problem still persists I would imagine the problem be caused be distance between jewels too great and/or jewels not meeting parallel.
  25. Nope, it looks like in the picture in my previous post around the entire barrel wall. As far as I can tell, the current spring is no different from all other Generale Ressorts springs I've handled. The GR spring feels quite a bit stiffer and more springy compared to the original spring which felt softer. It does not. The barrel rotates freely around the arbor and there are no hick-ups in the train.
  26. If you have a 3d printer then it's possible to make a movement holder to position the movement correctly inside the case. I've done this for a custom watch I made. I also printed a dial is it was a skeletonised movement. It takes some time and effort to get right, here's my prototypes...
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