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VWatchie last won the day on August 18

VWatchie had the most liked content!

About VWatchie

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. I've made up my mind to build a watch around the the ETA 2804-2 (28.800/Manual wind/Date complication). It's diameter is identical to the ETA 2824-2 (25.60 mm), but the height of the 2804-2 is just 3.35 mm, that is 1.25 mm less than the 2824-2. I've been looking around but it seems very difficult (impossible?) to find watch cases designed for the ETA 2804-2, but there are plenty of cases to choose from for the 2824-2. So, I have two questions... 1. Where can I find watch cases designed for the ETA 2804-2, and if that isn't possible...? 2. Would a case designed for the 2824-2 work with the 2804-2? My guess is that it would, but that the case back would be unnecessarily thick?
  2. VWatchie

    Stem loose, but could this be a scam?

    Thanks for the info! Yes, the stem comes out completely! Looking at the dial side pushing the stem back in there's no motion in any of the parts except the sliding clutch/pinion which rotates but doesn't reach the crown wheel. The crystal feels like glass and lies flat with the case. I was considering trying to remove it, but don't know if it's possible or how. Anyway, I feel I'm done with this watch...
  3. VWatchie

    Stem loose, but could this be a scam?

    If the owner no longer wants it I can send it to you. In that case, I'll get in touch with you. Then, perhaps you can share the experience with us, whatever the outcome!? I'm sure we could all learn something. Of course, you'd get to keep the watch as yours! I will, as gently as possible, recommend the owner not to spend any money on repair but rather, as rogart63 suggested, recommend a nice mechanical vintage watch for his wife which I could help him service.
  4. VWatchie

    Stem loose, but could this be a scam?

    Thanks, guys! I felt slightly bad about this at first, but having read your posts I will simply return it to the owner telling him I'm just not up to it. He knows I'm not a professional, and I was very careful not to make any promises, so we should be fine. After that, I will just simply forget about this "incident".
  5. VWatchie

    Stem loose, but could this be a scam?

    Thanks, Endeavor! You're absolutely right and I really don't feel like I want to give it a try, so I'll do exactly as you say. BTW, is that a "real movement" or just some unnamed Chinese made movement?
  6. A few days ago a friend of mine called and asked me if I could take a look at his wife’s mechanical watch as the stem had come loose. Having serviced some 15 or so mechanical Vostoks and Poljots, two Unitas 6498, and most recently an ETA 1080 I felt pretty confident I might be able to find and fix the problem. According to my friend they’d bought the watch on their holiday in San Mario and had paid a little less than €300 Euro. Considering the price and my experience so far, my guess was that the watch would probably have a pretty standard 17 jewel mechanical movement, and furthermore that a likely cause might be a dislocated setting lever. So, I decided to take on the challenge. A few days later I had the watch in my hands and below is what it looked like: As you can see it’s a skeleton watch. Never worked on any of those before but I’d assume they just have less metal than a normal movement. Anyway, after having removed the snap on case back lid I felt quite disconcerted. I couldn’t figure out how to remove the movement from the case as I couldn’t find any movement fixing ring screws. Furthermore, it seemed to be fitted with wheels serving no purpose, and the setting lever push screw (which I’m not even sure it was) just wouldn’t budge one bit when I tried to press and/or move it a bit. As far as I could tell, the dial seemed fitted on the case and not on the dial. And funny there’s a print on the crystal (never saw that before). The overall design felt very "different" to what I had seen before. So, I don’t know what to make out of this and would really like to hear your opinions about this watch and if you think there’s something I can do to repair it. I do not have a lot of experience but this watch makes something of a “toyish” impression on me and I feel confused. Could it be a “scam watch”? If I can't get it out of the case (I've tried to lift it with quite a bit of force) there's nothing much I can do, is there?
  7. Thank you very much for your warm words, and what a great way to remember my grandfather. My 9-year-old son is actually named after him. Oh, just to make sure; the disassembly pictures serve as assembly pictures but were taken during the dismantling. However, as I learned, the dial side escape wheel cap jewel must be put in place before the train wheel bridge can be secured (as explained in my previous post).
  8. So finished reassembling and lubricating my grandfather's ETA 1080 today and took a couple of pictures of it before putting it back into its case. For anyone interested I assembled the movement in the order shown by these pictures (000A.jpg, 000B.jpg, 001.jpg to 073.jpg). The pictures were taken during disassembly so the parts in the pictures are somewhat dirty. The pictures were intended for my personal use, so some of the text and coloured arrows might seem somewhat cryptical. And finally, a slow-motion video of the balance in motion can be seen here. This watch was last used some 40 years ago or so, so just wonderful to see it tick again! This was my first ETA movement and compared the Vostoks and Poljots I've been working on before I must say the fit and finish is indeed a notch or two better. I really enjoyed doing my first Swiss watch (except for the Unitas 6498 in Mark's watch repair lessons).
  9. So, I’ve started to reassemble my grandfather’s ETA 1080 and went about it as I always do, with the train wheels. However, when mounting the train wheel bridge I just couldn’t get the pivot of the escape wheel to reach into the cap jewelled pivot hole on the bridge (seen in the first picture in my first post above). Scratching my head, I removed the escape wheel and inspected it, suspecting the pivot might be damaged. It was not, it looked perfect. So, I tried it again and by holding down the bridge with some peg wood, I could get the pivot to just barely reach into the jewel hole. Yet, as soon as I tried to secure the bridge the pivot would fall out of the hole. Having struggled with this for probably more than half an hour, I began to feel pretty frustrated. I’m not a very technical person, I don’t have a lot of experience of watch repairing, and in all honesty I guess I’m not too smart, but all of sudden I realized, or rather remembered, that the jewel hole on the dial side has a cap jewel as well and that the escape wheel pivot on the dial side probably fell too deep into the jewel hole as I hadn’t mounted its cap jewel. Said and done, I oiled the cap as instructed above (it worked out perfectly, thanks!), mounted it on the dial side and then tried to mount the train wheel bridge again. Bingo! This time around the escape wheel pivot reached into to the jewel hole on bridge perfectly. At this point, I felt pretty proud of myself! Well, just thought I’d share in case someone else who’s new to cap jewels happens to find this thread in the future. I'll try nickelsilver's method the next time around which would have eliminated this problem. Thank you all for helping out!
  10. Thanks, JBerry! What I'd really like would be to find a used inexpensive manual wind high beater (preferably 8 beats) on eBay, Etsy, etc. to service/repair.
  11. I must confess, I prefer manual wind movements but it would seem to me that these most of the time are "low beaters". I'd like to find a not too expensive 8 beat manual wind movement, preferably Swiss and preferably without any complications (not a requirement though). Any suggestions?
  12. These jewels are from my very first ETA movement that I'm servicing (cal. 1080), and none of the movements I've been working on so far (Vostoks, Poljots, and a Unitas 6498) has had jewels like these. My question is simply how to oil them? They do look a lot like cap jewels and maybe that's what they are called? If I were to guess I would say that they should be oiled the same way that spring cap jewels are oiled, but I'd really like to know for sure. And, while I'm at it, what's the purpose of these non-springed "cap jewels"? I've also seen them in pictures of some really old movements having a balance without a shock spring. The movement comes from my grandfather's (born 1910) Ernest Borel Incastar which we believe he bought sometime in the early 1960-ties. It's a family heirloom, and I've been waiting to service it until having worked up some confidence. I had no idea it harboured an ETA movement so that was a pleasant and rather exciting surprise. As far as I know, it has never been serviced. As can be seen in the above picture it has a really interesting regulator mechanism, and I actually found this ad for it on eBay. Setting the rate I would assume is just a matter of rotating that five-pointed "star", but I wonder if that entire arm can be slid to regulate the beat error?
  13. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    If it's not too much trouble, can you tell us a bit about what you use to polish them and how? I'm thinking I could use some 3M lapping film, no? Perhaps, you have or can take a picture? My levers are cheap Indian levers from CousinsUK. They have served me well, but nothing is so good it can't be made better!
  14. You could very well be right about that. I'll take another really close look the next time I service a Vostok Cal. 2416B. A metal oxide is usually a little harder to polish away than oil residue, and as I remember it, it didn't take many strokes with my fibreglass scratch pencil to make them shine.
  15. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    I’ve noticed that I’m beginning to enjoy some of my tools as much as my watches. Maybe I’ll die from starvation, but at least I’ll die happy holding my cannon pinion remover tool in my hands.