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VWatchie

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VWatchie last won the day on July 10

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About VWatchie

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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    Male
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    Stockholm, Sweden
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    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. I don't know, but hopefully, someone here knows what the commonly accepted practice is. I can see that the suggestion to oil the pallet pivots bring doubt to your confidence in the documentation. The only context in which I've heard this being suggested is to combat re-banking by introducing a bit of drag. Anyway, I'd suggest thin oil, but purely on a gut feeling!
  2. Thanks for the audio demonstration! I wish I had listened to it before I started taking it apart. I too often seem to lose amplitude after I've serviced my movements (need to figure this out, I'm still a noob) so I may not be able to recreate the problem. Anyway, once I've finished the service I'll put in on the timing machine again and we'll see what happens.
  3. Someone told me the 9 o'clock position is a clear sign of over banking! I thought I would never live to see it as I always seem to have problems with the opposite, i.e too low amplitude.
  4. Just got me a used HAMILTON Khaki Field watch housing an ETA 2824-2 for what I felt was a reasonable price on eBay ($304/€269/£242 including shipping). The plan is to wear it myself as I really like the silver dial and case. Putting it on my timing machine I get nothing alarming except for in the 9 o’clock position where it looks like the movement is going crazy (two pictures in this position). I’d really want to know what’s going on and what I can do about it?
  5. Couldn't agree more! EUs admission fees and immoderate delays in shipping from countries from outside the union is just horrible. I once waited two months for three Unitas 6498 movements from the US (it took four days for them to arrive in Sweden) I no longer shop anything (unless absolutely unavoidable) from outside of the union. IMO EU will be needing major reforms to survive in the long run. The Brits leaving is a sure sign.
  6. I think Mark explains it very clearly in the video I referred to, so I'm still reluctant to set the time in an anticlockwise direction if I can avoid it. A few minutes and gently is OK, but not for several hours.
  7. Spinning the hands counterclockwise is generally not a good idea as it can potentially damage the movement. So be very, very careful if you feel that you need to do this. I try to avoid it as much as I can.
  8. No need to let the mainspring down before removing the stem or replacing the movement in its case. No need to let it run overnight to determine if the hands rub on each other. Just pull the crown all the way out and gently spin the hands for 12 hours. Let the seconds hand tick on for a minute on its own to make sure it doesn’t bump into the minute hand. Once I’ve attached the hands to the dial, I flip the movement on the movement holder (Bergeon 4040) and remove the stem. That is, I let the movement holder hold on to the dial. I sometimes place a bit of plastic film (the kind you use to protect food) between the movement holder and the dial. Never had any problems with scratching the dial or scraping off lume. Finally, I place the movement on a watch case cushion dial-up, place the case over the movement, hold on to the cushion and the case and flip them over, replace the stem and the case back lid. You can see it here. Yes, good thing there are cheap Chinese clones, but if you truly want to save money, I recommend practising with the Vostok 24XX movements. Just incredible value for money!
  9. Just concluded the assembly sequence of my ETA 2824-2 by adding pictures for replacing the... automatic device framework, hour wheel, dial support, dial, hands, case, movement fixing ring, case back gasket, oscillating weight, case back lid, and strap I always seem to mix up the sequence for replacing these parts, like replacing the dial and forgetting about the hour wheel, or installing the oscillating weight before the movement is in the case, etc. The idea is that when I assemble my next watch housing an ETA 2824-2 I can just browse the pictures to see what to do next and that will enable me to focus entirely on the execution. If you wish to use the same sequence please remember to order the pictures by name in ascending order, and hopefully, you'll find this picture walkthrough useful and convenient! BTW, if you have a smartphone or tablet you can download the free OneDrive app for Android and iOS which I have found to be the most convenient way to browse the pictures. Thanks for your attention!
  10. Here’s a tip for those of you who shop from CousinsUK.com! Cousins have a strict policy when it comes to returns, and if you wish to shop from them you must approve of these terms. However, don’t automatically assume it’s no use to get in touch with them if you feel that something has gone wrong. In my experience Cousins are always willing to listen to your arguments with an objective and humble attitude. My experience with Cousins’ service, prices, and treatment are really the best!
  11. I can confirm that you are right about the dirt on the pallet stone. The movement was indeed in need of a service. I'm wearing it on my arm as I write this. I'll assess it in a day or two. If the symptoms remain I'll have a very close look at the hairspring. Thanks!
  12. Thanks clockboy! The impulse jewel and the pallets are spotless, in perfect condition (as far as I can see in my stereomicroscope) and as tight as can be. The escape wheel is spotless and has some end shake and side shake. The pallet fork jewel holes are spotless as well. I will try JDMs suggestion to give it a solid day or so of running and then assess it again (experimenting with the Gain gauge), inside and outside of its case. If it doesn't help I'll re-clean and re-lubricate.
  13. My impression is that 90 % or more of all the ETA 2824 watches that I look at have the 2824-2 type of movement. Anyway, good that we have now unambiguously established that the lift angle of the 2824-2 is 50 degrees.
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