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VWatchie last won the day on August 18 2018

VWatchie had the most liked content!

About VWatchie

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. This was my very first attempt at recording (iPhone 6s) and editing (VideoPad) a video, so your praise means a lot to me! Thank you!
  2. Got the oiler (Bergeon 1A) and I'm very pleased! It's easier to use than I thought it would be and it works perfectly. It's all that I hoped it would be! For anyone interested I made the following video:
  3. Well, it's been a while since there was any activity in this thread, but I'd just like to add that I saw Mark Lovick use the Auto Oiler 1A - Bergeon 7718-1A (I believe) and was so very impressed that I just had to order one. Waiting for it now... I find oiling cap jewels a bit of a pain and I often end up redoing it several times before getting that nicely drop-shaped dot of oil covering some 50 to 70 % of the cap jewel surface. There were times when I had to do it 10 times to get it right, taking "forever". My skills have improved but I still find it a pain to get it just right. When Mark does it in the video it looks like "music"
  4. Do you by chance mean pith wood? I think quite a bit a force would have to be used to penetrate peg wood (a toothpick would be softer) with a pivot and in my mind that could break the pivot. Or, do you make a super tiny hole in the peg wood first? Or, perhaps the pivot is so small that it can actually penetrate peg wood without any problem. When thinking about it some more the answer is probably yes!? Oh well, I guess I could try it but if you have the time to elaborate I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
  5. I'm afraid I can't picture this in my head, could you please provide a picture? It sounds very interesting!
  6. I forgot about a pallet in IPA for about 20/30 minutes and the pallets stones came loose, that's why I never rinse the pallets and the roller in IPA for more than a few seconds. Five minutes probably wouldn't do much or any harm, but personally, I just don't want to risk it.
  7. Yes! I use them to remove rust and corrosion from stems, wheel pinions, and wheel pivots (steel). You have to use them with "specific care" as they can produce some pretty ghastly scratches on the wheels themselves (non-steel parts). I hold the wheels as steady as I can with brass tweezers or in a vice, and then I brush the pinion in one direction away from the wheel towards the pivot. Fibreglass scratch brushes are extremely potent, sometimes too potent and that's why I've just ordered a nylon scratch brush which can be used more liberally and on other non-steel parts but still have a very good effect.
  8. Oh, forgot to mention! Big parts (main plate, bridges, and even some medium sized parts such as the ratchet wheel, etc.) I clean using warm/hot water, detergent (Yes!), and variously sized toothbrushes! It's super efficient and after this treatment, the parts look all shiny and new! Haven't found anything that beats it, and I even doubt a watch cleaning machine would do a better job. However, be careful to blow everything perfectly dry as soon as possible to avoid the possibility of any rust building up. And, I never use this method for the train wheels as they rust very easily.
  9. I use naphtha and in my experience, the shellac will basically stay unaffected. However, I wouldn't leave those parts in naphtha for a week, but for a day or two I haven't had any problems, and I always check the integrity of the pallets and impulse pin after cleaning. However, be very careful with alcohol-based solvents such as isopropanol (aka IPA). I ordinarily rinse in IPA, but the pallets and the balance only for a few seconds and then I immediately blow them dry. The idea is to remove any remaining naphtha. An ultrasonic cleaner and warm/hot water will do a decent job (I use 60 ml glass jars with naphtha that I place the parts in and then the jars go in the ultrasonic cleaner). However, the ultrasonic cleaner will not be able to remove rust, corrosion, and some other stubborn dirt, so after cleaning I always inspect the parts and use fibreglass scratch brushes (my no.1 favourite cleaning tool) as needed and rinse in IPA again. Good luck!
  10. Oh yes, I just couldn't live without my 20X/40X stereomicroscope! I use it when oiling jewels holes, pallets, etc. (to me it offers a much higher level of precision), and when I need to understand what I'm actually looking at (dirt, debris, discolouration, rust, and so on). The only inconvenience is that the design om my scope is such that I need to move the part under it, rather than bringing the scope to the part, and of course, I can't move my head around the part. If interested I wrote more about it in this thread. Anyway, for disassembly/assembly of watch movements, the scope isn't all that convenient, except for things like setting anti-shock springs.
  11. Thanks for the tip! However, I've already tried this and I'm afraid I found it too bulky for my needs.
  12. I can see you're wearing the eyeglass on your left eye. Is that because you're left-eyed or because it's more convenient when you do lathe work? The Bergeon clip-on that I'm considering comes in left-eye and right-right versions so I need to get this right for the work I do when assembling/disassembling movements using tweezers and screwdrivers (no lathe work, yet), and as I mentioned I'm both right-eyed, and right-handed and I fear that if I get the wrong version I will end up in an awkward working position. And what would be a good level of magnification? Or perhaps a more relevant question is; what would be a tolerable focal length to make room for my head, tweezers and screwdrivers?
  13. Welcome Dpastl! I'm sorry I can't help you with the movements you're working on but I'm sure someone else around here can and will. I can recommend watchrepairlessons.com as an excellent way to learn about service, repair and fault finding, and of course picking up stuff here on the site.
  14. I need some magnification advice. I’m considering these Bergeon “Clip-On-Spectacles” as I wear glasses. So far, I’ve only used cheap Chinese magnification glasses from eBay, and I’ve been happy with them as they give me a stereo vision (never really liked to look with one eye only). However, it is a constant hassle to switch between my ordinary progressive glasses and my Chinese magnification glasses. So that’s mainly what motivates me. Come to think of it; perhaps progressive glasses combined with a clip-on is a bad mix? Perhaps it would be better to use a pair of reading glasses with a clip on? I’m right-handed and I'm right-eyed, so am I correct to assume that I should go for the right-eyed version of the “Clip-On-Spectacles” to make room for screwdrivers and tweezers? Seems obvious but I want to make sure. What magnification would be the most convenient for working with screwdrivers and tweezers on a movement? The focal length for a 10 power magnification is just an inch, so I assume my head would then bump into my tools. I have a stereomicroscope (20X/40X) that I use when I need to get really close. The focal length of the 5 power clip-on is two inches, perhaps still too close? What is your experience, and what level of magnification would you recommend (10.0, 6.7, 5.0, 4.0, 3.3, 2.8, or 2.5)?
  15. If you haven't already seen them, then I think you will enjoy these two videos:
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