VWatchie

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VWatchie last won the day on January 6

VWatchie had the most liked content!

About VWatchie

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  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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    Male
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    Stockholm, Sweden
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    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript
  1. So, found this "K & D Improved Main Spring Winder No. 128" on eBay and I also found a tutorial on how to use it, so I bought it. I'll try to let you know what I think as soon as I've tested it.
  2. Bought 24.5 % technical ammonia (I guess concentrated!?) Gave the main plate of a Russian Poljot 2614.2H a 20 minute bath in my ultrasonic cleaner, and the results were inconclusive. My brass tweezers turned black (dipped it in the ammonia), saw no difference on the main plate except perhaps a little darker, patchy, dull, in some places, however the jewels became ultra clean. Before this I had cleaned the main plate with detergent using a tooth brush, and in naphtha using my ultrasonic cleaner. I did have a slight problem getting the jewels really clean so in that sense it was efficient. I guess I should have diluted the ammonia, but I thought, WTH I'll give it a try. I guess brass and ammonia is pretty bad combination, and I guess these Russian main plats are brass based with some sort of silver colored coting, no? Anyway, I'd appreciate to hear more about cleaning watch parts in ammonia. For example. what alloy is used for the train wheels? Brass?
  3. What about this lot? Any good? They look a lot like the winders shown by rogart63. What about winding direction? I'm under the impression some winders have a "pin/peg" rather than a hook (no?), to be able to accomodate both left and right mainsprings.
  4. I must say, trying to find a decent set of mainspring winders (and understanding what that would be) has proved a lot more complicated than I had thought it would be. What do you think of this set? In a private message the seller wrote to me: "Hi not entirely sure as got this from watchmakers estate but i try my best to answer. The handle has two pins rather than a hook so suggests it could spin both ways."
  5. Getting in touch with several Russian watch dealers, I finally found someone having Poljot 2614.2H barrel complete in stock for $10 each. If in need, drop a main to taras4roman@gmail.com at https://www.ussrwatch.net
  6. The "KENDRICK & DAVIS ADJUSTABLE MAINSPRING WINDER" looks like a really nifty tool! Probably a somewhat stupid question, but as there are two arbors, I take it that one side is for clockwise wounded springs and the other side is for counter-clockwise wounded springs? In that case, and if it works well enough, it looks like the ideal tool for those of us who are passionate hobby repairers!?
  7. I’m scouting eBay looking for a used Bergeon mainspring winder set like this. So far I’ve only used my fingers to replace mainsprings, and although it works, it is a delicate process, and I never feel perfectly confident doing it, and I’ve probably damaged (a bit) one or two mainsprings in the process. Anyway, I’ve only just recently learned that not all mainsprings are wound in the same direction. Up until just a few days ago I had only serviced Vostok 24XX movements and a Unitas 6498 (following along the 2nd course on watchrepairlessons.com, good stuff BTW). However the movement I’m servicing now is a Poljot 2614.2H, and one of the differences is that its mainspring, unlike the Vostoks and the Unitas, is wound counter clockwise (inner to outer coil) when placed in the barrel. Watching the video on how to use a Bergeon mainspring winder on watchrepairlessons.com, it is obvious (I guess?) that the winder used in the video wouldn’t work with my Poljot mainspring, as the hook on the mainspring winder tool is for mainsprings that are wound clockwise, and this brings me to my first question; Would the mainspring winder set I linked to work with both types of mainsprings, clockwise and counter-clockwise? My second question is the result of trying to understand the listings of the Bergeon mainspring winders on cousinsuk.com. There are "left" and "right" handles, and "left" and "right" arbors for winders. I don’t understand what the "left" and "right" refers to, but my guess is that it determines the direction of the hook pulling the coil when wound into the winder barrel? Or, maybe it’s just a matter of the watch repairer being right or left handed? Or, something else? If anyone can bring some light to my questions, or have some informational links to share, I’d be very happy!
  8. Unfortunately, as their documentations says: "If bridle type is not specified then it is a normal bridle" And what I need is a DB bridle. Anyway, thanks for the effort!
  9. I’d be surprised, but very happy, if anyone has the knowledge to help me out with the following. I’ve bought a Russian watch having a Poljot 2614.2H movement (Cornavin Dolphin) on eBay which I’m now servicing. My problem is that I need a new mainspring for it (or barrel complete) but I’m unable to find anyone who can supply it. I found some other Poljot mainsprings on eBay and CousinsUK.com, but non for the 2614.2H. For example, on eBay I’ve found a mainspring for a 2609/2614B, and on CousinsUK.com I’ve found a barrel complete for the 2609. However, I have no idea whether those would be compatible with the 2614.2H or not?! Here are the measurements of the mainspring I’m looking for: Height: 1.15mm Thickness: 0.12mm Length: 330mm (approx.) Inner Barrel Diameter: 10.48mm I should also mention that it needs a “DB = Special Bridle” as specified by the Generale Ressorts catalogue on CousinsUK.com, which I’ve also browsed but with no luck. Below are some pictures of the barrel and mainspring I’m looking for.
  10. Just curious; was it a mainspring for a Poljot? In the video you only mention it was for "a Russian watch", no?
  11. Thanks, for the video! Very useful as I'm looking for a mainspring winder (or two)! BTW, and I could be wrong, but it looks to me that the mainspring was mounted in the barrel in the wrong direction, no? As shown in the beginning of the video and @1:35 the spring is wound counter clockwise when I believe it should be wound clockwise. I noticed something looked funny @5:08 where the "end part" (don't know its name) which would press against the inside wall of the barrel would instead be pressing against the mainspring itself. I've serviced a few Vostok movements, and if this was a Vostok 24XX and if I recollect correctly, the mainspring should be would clockwise in the barrel. I'm just mentioning this if someone is servicing a Vostok 24XX and is looking for info on how to mount the mainspring in the barrel. Did you get it to work, or did you have to redo it in clockwise direction?
  12. At the end of my previous post about The Click, I wrote the following: "EDIT: Looking at the type 1 click wheel (a bit closer) it could be that it could be mounted with the click spring in any of the two locations. Haven't tried it though." I've now tried this and could conclude that the "type 1 click spring hole" must be used with the "type 1 click", and that the "type 2 click spring hole" must be used with the "type 2 click". I guess the barrel bridges manufactured with two click spring holes is a convenience so that it should be possible to use any of the two types of click wheels (depending on what type of click wheel you, or Vostok, happen to have at hand).
  13. Thank you very much for your input! It certainly helped me make up my mind. I hadn't even noticed the KIF spings on the Chinese movement. I just assumed it would be identical (as it's called a clone) with the Unitas 6498. Now I know better, thanks! The Russian watches that I've been servicing/repairing so far have a similar spring (I guess) and they too break easily and can sometimes be a pain to refit. While researching this I also found this article called "Buy a Swiss ETA / Unitas 6497 or 6498 Movement For Well Under $100" which was also helpful.
  14. I'd really appreciate your opinions on the following. I've just started the "Level 2: Maintenance Servicing" course on https://www.watchrepairlessons.com. Before this I have successfully serviced about a dozen Russian Vostok movements (2409, 2414, 2415) so my choice of movement for following the course is probably not critical as long as it is a manual movement without any complications. Anyway, I wish to follow along as closely as possible so I've decided to pick up the same kind of movement as used in the course. My idea is that once I'm finished with the course I will build my own watch around the movement like Mark Lovick shows in this video. Now, I can't make up my mind whether to buy a Chinese clone like the one in the image above available on cousinsuk.com (CODE: CHI3620M) and of course on eBay (I suppose) or... whether I should go with the above "Nastrix" movement found in a pocket watch on eBay. To me the "Nastrix" movement looks "more attractive" (I wonder what alloy that is?). I think it would look better inside my own watch as I have a glass case back in mind. I have negotiated the price to about £61 for the Nastrix which is quite a bit more than the £36 for the Chinese clone. The following info is from the ad on eBay, and from my mail correspondence with the seller: " (---)in pristine condition--never, ever used. BRAND NEW!(---) This has the highly reliable, full size ETA6497 movement. (---) Movement is approx. 36.70mm; that would be American size 8; 16 lignes. Case is 48.95mm approx. The movement is stamped "Nastrix Corp, Seventeen Unadjusted", and "17 Jewels SWISS". If you look inside this watch at the movement, you will find that it is a 17 jewel incablock made by "Nastrix." These were made by a man called Claude Wollman in Swizterland between 1970 and 1990. Arnex was the name of the manufacturer. Other good names which exist for these watches are Neiman Marcus, Kellner, La Cloche, Bucherer, and others. There is a good article on these watches which you can find on Google called "What is the value of an Arnex Pocket Watch." The article is not exactly clear about the cases. But the parts are Swiss and under a special treaty to keep US labor in the US they may have been assembled in the US Virgin Islands (St Croix.) A most convoluted history. " Really can't make up my mind so I'd really appreciate some input on this! Would the Nastrix be a as good as the Chinese clone, or is this a scam? I should mention that the seller has 100 % positive feedback.
  15. Having received and tested the "Bergeon 6400 for various shapes", I can now confirm that it indeed works with various shapes (maximum width 45 mm). It feels like a really solid tool and it works very well. Expensive yes, but I can confirm that it does its job. Lifting the old crystal off and setting the new the crystal in on the Poljot was a job made very easy and fast with this tool. The only thing I'm not perfectly happy with is that the arms that grab the crystal are pretty hard to push all the way out to 45 mm. It feels like the inner diameter of the rubber seal is too narrow. Perhaps a bit of silicon on the rubber seal might make it a bit smoother!? Then again, it's not every day we need to lift a crystal that large. As already discussed, the needs for a crystal lift are limited. Nevertheless I'm happy to have one in my "arsenal of tools".