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VWatchie last won the day on March 1

VWatchie had the most liked content!

About VWatchie

  • Rank
    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. Always hard so make a guess... Anyway, I think the problem is on the dial side, i.e. the dial train (cannon pinion, minute wheel, hour wheel, intermediate wheel). Could it be that the clutch wheel doesn't disengage properly from the intermediate wheel that drives the minute wheel when you set the time? If so the intermediate wheel may bind up the minute wheel making things slow down and then stop. Well, just guessing. Anyway, I'd check the dial train (motion works) and the keyless works. I think your idea of removing the cannon pinion to see if it solves the problem is a good idea. If it doesn't help you'll know for sure the problem is with the train of wheels or the escapement. Good luck and let us know of any progress or any new observations.
  2. Here is a good source of technical guides for many movements but I was unable to locate the mentioned calibre. Thought I tip you about the site though. Good luck!
  3. That's a good idea. Open the barrel and have a look and if you don't know how to I would recommend watchrepairlessons.com.
  4. Just perfect! Thank you very, very much! To be able to quickly search these documents is such a wonderful feature.
  5. So I would prefer your version! Thank you! However, I was hoping for part 1 and part 2. Both of your files are of part 1. One is named "nopass" and the other "ocr". I don't know if that was intentional or not. Anyway, I am happy with whatever I can get!
  6. Yes, the links are dead! Please upload them!
  7. Sorry, can't help you. I wanted these books for a long time and I wouldn't be surprised if you'd be able to identify the movement using them. The books list the movements by size and then have illustrations of the setting lever spring and setting lever to compare with. Unfortunately these books are pretty expensive so I've been hesitant to pull the trigger. @Mark demonstrates them at watchrepairlessons.com (Course 1: "Getting started")
  8. You should definitely preserve the patina of this fine watch. If needed, clean it up and polish it ever so gently not to remove any of the plating. In my book, your watch looks a million times better than the watch where the plating was removed. If you want a SS watch I recommend you make a supplementary purchase.
  9. Excellent walkthrough! Saved for future reference! Thanks!
  10. I've serviced one quartz movement, an ETA calibre 955.112 (my two months old walkthrough doesn't have a single like so if you hurry you can be the first ). Anyway, Lawson's assembly procedure for the same calibre has a very nifty trick for safely handling the rotor. I sometimes got the advice to buy a new movement when working on inexpensive watches, but as I'm not in it for money or efficiency but for the pleasure of trying to repair and make work well again, I could never take that kind of advice to heart. After all, WRT is all about repair.
  11. I just couldn't agree more! The affordability of these watches is nothing short of incredible if you ask me. Without them I, initially being the mechanical idiot, would never have been able to muster the courage to try to take a watch movement apart, as they, when used, cost next to nothing. I owe so much to Vostok and these movements will always have a very special place in my heart. So, if you've never had the pleasure of wearing a Vostok, chances are you'll never regret it if you give it a try, and there are hundreds if not thousands on eBay in all shapes and sizes for just a few dollars. A quick search on eBay for "Vostok watch" gave me 15,827 results. There's a very definite reason for that.
  12. What I tried was place the pinion of the wheel in a suitable hole in my staking block. I then placed Autosol on the pivot and some Autosol at end of a piece of peg wood. I then held the wheel by a spoke using my tweezers while rotating the pegwood on the pivot. I repeated this several times. The result was a very well polished pivot (near but not quite mirror shine) but the method just wasn't abrasive enough to remove any material (except minuscule) so it wouldn't remove the scoring. Anyway, with the new jewel I really don't think there's and need to remove the scoring as its so very small. The Autosol was extremely efficient for polishing though!
  13. Considering the strong torque and the thicker pivots, as you explained so well a few posts ago (an eye opener to the mechanical idiot, i.e. me), I think you're absolutely right about that. Nevertheless, now that I've ordered the smoothing broaches I will still have a go with them. Hopefully it will make some (probably unnecessary) improvement and hopefully I won't be making a mess. No matter, I will likely learn something.
  14. No, I haven't yet received the smoothing broaches, but once I've tried it I'll let you know the result. I'll be going very easy and I'll try not to overdo it. Hopefully it will make the barrel spin more freely around the arbor. CousinsUK doesn't have the barrel and cover as spare part so hopefully I won't be making a mess of it. I guess as a general rule it is better not to fix it unless it is broken, but in this case I'm just too curious to see what it's going to do.
  15. Oh yes, the scoring is very light but can be distinctly seen at 40X magnification. It's looks like a countersunk ring around the pivot with a width of only a few thousands of a millimeter. Don't know what would be suitable hardwood (?), but I think I can try with pegwood and autosol first considering the scoring is so light.
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