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VWatchie

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VWatchie last won the day on January 6

VWatchie had the most liked content!

About VWatchie

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

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  1. Now, except for the Unitas 6498, which can be found in many inexpensive Nastrix pocket watches on eBay, I've been using Russian movements to learn watch servicing and repairing. To the best of my knowledge and experience, these Russian movements are some of the most affordable on the market. In some cases, like with the Poljot 2614.2h, the Russians have copied Swiss movements and have adjusted them to be more rugged. There's a really cool article about it here. An interesting aspect of these movements is that they have their roots in the era of the Soviet Union, meaning that the movements were not the result of a free market, but ordered by the Russian state to provide the masses with a way to tell time. As a result, these movements were designed so that they could be serviced using just tweezers, a couple of screwdrivers, and a bit of watch oil. Ideal for any beginning watch repairer. As an indication of their affordability, a brand new 32 Jewel Automatic Vostok calibre 2416B is about $40 (and if you buy 10 or more $33). On eBay, you can find fully working Russian watches, that more than likely need service, for less than $20 with free shipping. My favourite brand is Vostok (sometimes spelt Wostok, Boctok, or восток) especially the Komandirskie and Amphibian models. It was this video that got me into Amphibians. Vostok, Poljot, and Raketa are the big Russian brands. Needless to say, I'm very fond of Russian watches and movements, and although the appreciation for them isn't that great on WRT (yet), there is a pretty large community found on the F10 forum on watchuseek.com. These watches are also very easy to customize and many do.
  2. I'd really like to understand how the two screw handles work. Why not just one screw? I actually feel a bit embarrassed to ask as it's probably obvious to "handy people". Actually, I've been trying to find a video or some documentation/illustrations but haven't been able to find anything really useful. I can just guess. a) Put the cannon pinion on the shaft of for example an old oiler. b) Pinch the pliers at the dent in the pinion, and at first resistance screw in the screw in the pliers until you feel a slight resistance (Hm... will I be needing a third hand for that?). c) Screw back "a bit" and pinch! d) Done? No, I really can't vision it... Anyone, please? Thanks! EDIT: Or... pinch the pinion while seated on the arbor of the centre wheel? Hm... No... probably not...
  3. Just realized I have written about one of the mod watches in my collection; the watch with the "Three Crows" dial and yellow and blue strap. Click here if interested.
  4. VWatchie

    Cannon Pinion Tightening

    I have a cannon pinion that I suspect is sliding just a tiny bit just before the date changes (Poljot 2614.2H) and I'd like to try this tool. I feel basically no resistance from the cannon pinion when setting the time so I guess that's a solid indication it needs some tightening? Does anyone have any info on how to use it? I do get the general idea, but some hands-on guidance on how to actually use it would be fantastic. Is Mark using it in any of his videos? I looked around a bit (not too much) but couldn't find any. Perhaps it will be included in the watch repair lessons level 3!? That would be great!
  5. To dissolve oil, grease, and dirt I use a liquid named "Gripen Kemiskt ren bensin". That's Swedish and translates to "Chemically pure gasoline" by Google translate ("Gripen" is the brand). I wonder if a better translation would be "refined benzine"? What do you think? The back of the bottle says (again Google translate): Naphtha petroleum hydrotreated lightly. When I try with "refined benzine", Google translate recommends I visit the nearest gas station, and I don't think that's right? I buy the stuff at my local grocery store and it's about a quarter of the cost of Zippo lighter fluid. That is, I pay approx $2 for 125ml. I'm sure there are bigger and less expensive bottles or alternatives but I haven't looked into it. The front of the bottle reads: "Efficiently removes spots of oil, grease, and glue", and that seems to be what it does! For my final rinse, I always use IPA, to remove any possible "cleaning fluid" (whatever I've used) residue. I know from experience that the shellac or resin doesn't go well with IPA, so I'm very careful to rinse the balance and pallet fork very quickly (max 30 sec.). Anyway, for any parts big enough I definitely get the best results using warm water, detergent, and a soft toothbrush. The jewel pivot holes I peg out, and if necessary also treat with the chemically pure gasoline. This post by "clockman" was the best info about cleaning I could find when I was new to this. I still think it's good!
  6. Thanks, and thanks for asking! Yes, I do! Start with Vostok (brand) Amphibian (model). Extremely reliable (AKA AK47 of the watch world), special and affordable. If you haven't seen this video and you're considering a Russian watch, you just have to see it. If you wish to buy new, I recommend meranom.com. Once you've been bitten, continue with Raketa and Poljot. There are many more Russian brands but those mentioned are the big ones. Good luck and let me know if I can be of help!
  7. I keep my watches in a cardboard box from IKEA (Yes, I'm Swedish). When I see an interesting watch on eBay, I buy it, service it (if I have the time), and wear it (if serviced) for a while. It then goes into the cardboard box. I've been meaning to inventory that cardboard box for a long time, but for fear of finding too many watches (is there such a thing?) I've been putting it off. Anyway, today was D-day, and I took a picture of each. Most of them were bought on eBay but not all. Some I have built and/or modified myself. I haven't yet written any documentation, but please feel free to ask if you see anything that catches your eye. BTW, the Panerai is fake! I don't like fake watches. I don't wear them, I don't buy them (anymore), and I don't sell them. Oh, and there is another one on its way from Moscow; a vintage Vostok Radio Room Amphibia (can't wait for it). I'll list it first. Hope you'll enjoy!
  8. Thanks! There's a lot to learn about watch repairing, and I guess that's part of why it's so rewarding, although sometimes very frustrating. There always seems to be more than one way to solve a problem, and I guess that too adds to the enjoyment. Yes, no doubt, this is a good one! Looking around here on watchrepairtalk, I actually found a thread including my particular version of cannon pinion remover with a picture of its original instructions! I'll link it below. Actually, I won't polish it, as I enjoy its patina as much as I enjoy its smooth operation. I have cleaned it very carefully though, using Rodico to get rid of oil, dirt, and rust.
  9. For me, Russian watch movements such as Vostok, Poljot, and Raketa have been a fantastic way in to watch repair. Their affordability seems unbeatable; A lost or damaged watch part never spells financial disaster and can most often be replaced for a few dollars.

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  10. Here's another image of my cannon pinion remover that might be helpful to anyone who would like to compare it to other cannon pinion removers that might be listed on eBay and similar sites.
  11. Well, I did, for a while, but it sure is a great help. Come to think of it; another great help is my stereomicroscope. Now that I have more experience I don't need it quite as often but in the beginning, it was a fantastic help, especially to be able to see clearly, in 3D, the oiling of the jewel pivot holes.
  12. I'm happy to report that this cannon pinion remover works perfectly! And I don't see that it wouldn't be able to remove even very small cannon pinions. It's not the same as the one used by Mark and jdrichard (obvious when comparing the images of the claws), but oh how very smooth and exact it is. It's a joy just to hold it, and the thought that this tool might have been used, perhaps for decades, by a skilled watch repairer, is quite inspiring! Just love it!
  13. A set is now on auction on eBay! Despite your illustrations I really can't say that I fully understand how it works. Nevertheless, I'm sure I'd be able to figure it out (I have an idea). Anyway, what I don't understand is if these winders are variable or fixed in diameter? If fixed, what are the sizes? Sorry if my questions seem uninitiated. As I've already stated, I'm still pretty new to this. Thanks!!! Oh BTW, what would be a fair price?
  14. Tried the SeaClean2 with my wife's gilded mesh bracelet. I used the recommended 10 ml solution per 400 ml warm, but not hot, water and it worked so-so. To really get the bracelet to shine again I had to use my old trusted method that I also apply to watch plates and bridges; warm water, detergent, and a soft and dense toothbrush. Nothing seems to beat it...
  15. Thanks for your reply, and although I was still sceptical I made up my mind to get myself an Elma. I'm glad I did as the Elma Antimag machine works very well indeed! In my case, the Chinese demagnetizer was a complete waste of money, at least as I have only access to 240 Volts. It just doesn't work for me. I've recorded a video review in three short parts (before, during, and after demagnetizing) as I have no video editing experience, and for anyone interested you can watch them by clicking on the following links: Elma Antimag Demagnetizer Review Part 1 of 3. Elma Antimag Demagnetizer Review Part 2 of 3. Elma Antimag Demagnetizer Review Part 3 of 3.
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