Jump to content

VWatchie

Member
  • Content count

    160
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

VWatchie last won the day on August 18

VWatchie had the most liked content!

About VWatchie

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 06/01/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Russian watches, playing the violin, tennis, C#, SQL, JavaScript

Recent Profile Visitors

2,276 profile views
  1. So, I’ve started to reassemble my grandfather’s ETA 1080 and went about it as I always do, with the train wheels. However, when mounting the train wheel bridge I just couldn’t get the pivot of the escape wheel to reach into the cap jewelled pivot hole on the bridge (seen in the first picture in my first post above). Scratching my head, I removed the escape wheel and inspected it, suspecting the pivot might be damaged. It was not, it looked perfect. So, I tried it again and by holding down the bridge with some peg wood, I could get the pivot to just barely reach into the jewel hole. Yet, as soon as I tried to secure the bridge the pivot would fall out of the hole. Having struggled with this for probably more than half an hour, I began to feel pretty frustrated. I’m not a very technical person, I don’t have a lot of experience of watch repairing, and in all honesty I guess I’m not too smart, but all of sudden I realized, or rather remembered, that the jewel hole on the dial side has a cap jewel as well and that the escape wheel pivot on the dial side probably fell too deep into the jewel hole as I hadn’t mounted its cap jewel. Said and done, I oiled the cap as instructed above (it worked out perfectly, thanks!), mounted it on the dial side and then tried to mount the train wheel bridge again. Bingo! This time around the escape wheel pivot reached into to the jewel hole on bridge perfectly. At this point, I felt pretty proud of myself! Well, just thought I’d share in case someone else who’s new to cap jewels happens to find this thread in the future. I'll try nickelsilver's method the next time around which would have eliminated this problem. Thank you all for helping out!
  2. Thanks, JBerry! What I'd really like would be to find a used inexpensive manual wind high beater (preferably 8 beats) on eBay, Etsy, etc. to service/repair.
  3. I must confess, I prefer manual wind movements but it would seem to me that these most of the time are "low beaters". I'd like to find a not too expensive 8 beat manual wind movement, preferably Swiss and preferably without any complications (not a requirement though). Any suggestions?
  4. These jewels are from my very first ETA movement that I'm servicing (cal. 1080), and none of the movements I've been working on so far (Vostoks, Poljots, and a Unitas 6498) has had jewels like these. My question is simply how to oil them? They do look a lot like cap jewels and maybe that's what they are called? If I were to guess I would say that they should be oiled the same way that spring cap jewels are oiled, but I'd really like to know for sure. And, while I'm at it, what's the purpose of these non-springed "cap jewels"? I've also seen them in pictures of some really old movements having a balance without a shock spring. The movement comes from my grandfather's (born 1910) Ernest Borel Incastar which we believe he bought sometime in the early 1960-ties. It's a family heirloom, and I've been waiting to service it until having worked up some confidence. I had no idea it harboured an ETA movement so that was a pleasant and rather exciting surprise. As far as I know, it has never been serviced. As can be seen in the above picture it has a really interesting regulator mechanism, and I actually found this ad for it on eBay. Setting the rate I would assume is just a matter of rotating that five-pointed "star", but I wonder if that entire arm can be slid to regulate the beat error?
  5. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    If it's not too much trouble, can you tell us a bit about what you use to polish them and how? I'm thinking I could use some 3M lapping film, no? Perhaps, you have or can take a picture? My levers are cheap Indian levers from CousinsUK. They have served me well, but nothing is so good it can't be made better!
  6. You could very well be right about that. I'll take another really close look the next time I service a Vostok Cal. 2416B. A metal oxide is usually a little harder to polish away than oil residue, and as I remember it, it didn't take many strokes with my fibreglass scratch pencil to make them shine.
  7. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    I’ve noticed that I’m beginning to enjoy some of my tools as much as my watches. Maybe I’ll die from starvation, but at least I’ll die happy holding my cannon pinion remover tool in my hands.
  8. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    You describe it perfectly! The tool needs to be able to press on the loop of the hands AND be able to slide over the cannon pinion and hour wheel!
  9. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    I bought the hand setting tools I linked to and the size of them have covered all my needs so far. Your second question is more difficult to answer. This is how I have been doing it so far. Press down the hour hand as far as it goes without fouling the dial. Press down the minute hand as far as it goes without fouling the hour hand. Press on the seconds hand on its pivot without fouling the minute hand. Oh, just realized I haven't tried these tools with the Unitas 6498/6497 (hands remains to be mounted), so I can't vouch for their size with the Unitas.
  10. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    Just want to make you aware I just edited my previous message!
  11. VWatchie

    Hand setting tools and advice

    Just want to chip in that I use hand setting tools like these. I like them because they are flexible and can be slighted tilted if needed when pressing on the hands. Of course, the ideal is for the hands to be perfectly parallel with the dial, but being able to make a tiny adjustment can sometimes be helpful. I don't understand what you mean by "rest on the pinion/loop at the...". I have limited experience (Vostok and Poljot movements and the Unitas 6498) but as far as I know, the minute and the hour hands are only held by friction on the cannon pinion and hour wheel. They don't "rest" on anything.
  12. Your RR watch is probably as close as it can get to your friend's RR clock. The dial is indeed very similar, and it's the perfect, most clock-like case. Beautiful black hands (especially the seconds hand) and I really like your choice of the strap as well matching perfectly with the bezel. Wonderful! Thanks for sharing!
  13. My advice is to buy a replacement mainspring for the 6497. They are about £12 at cousinsuk.com. I did the course myself and that's what I did, and if I remember correctly, Mark recommends replacing the mainspring as a best practice, if possible. However, if you decide not to replace it, I really think it is possible to get away with it doing it by hand. It's a big spring so that should resist more, but on the other hand, as it is bigger it should make it easier to handle by hand. oldhippy, how often do you destroy/kink your mainsprings replacing them by hand, and how much of "a pain" is it?
  14. VWatchie

    Hello everyone...

    Welcome, Jon! This is a great place for all of us who have caught the "watch bug". Wifes and girlfriends for some reason seldom do but I do have a very loyal eagle-eyed wife who helps me find watch parts I've pinged. Bless her! As someone said: " I'm afraid one day I will die and my wife will sell my watches for what I told her I paid for them."
×