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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points

    DOXA Searambler 1968 project

    Hello to you all folks, thought I should share this story with you ,,,, Then I finally completed my big project "Doxa Searambler 300T from 1968" which I have been working on from March 11 to June 27 this year, for about 14 weeks. And I have to say very happy, although I have not yet managed to find a good solution on the BoR link. Have been in contact with the Doxa factory via an acquaintance who is AD in Sweden, so let's see what gets there. But anyway, here's the story: Bought this on March 11 in miserable condition, see photo 1. It was pretty messed up after been worn after 50 years of use as a professional dive watch, so all of the marks were gone on the bezel ring, the glass was scratched, really needed a service, see photo 2 and 3. Some had also tried to change the casetube and crown without knowing how to do this. And should rather been doing things they fully master insted. The casetube was inserted with an wrong angel into the case, so the result was that the crown did not enter the movment right. See photo 4. To fix this, the old casetube had to be drilled out / pulled out. This one was not fastend good enought, so I could just pulled it out. If this is done right, they is stuck like hell. .. See photo 4. you can see the red line that shows the correct angle into the case, while the casetube that was mounted befor was incorrectly angeled into the case, see the blue line. A incorrect crown was also inserted, the original crown is 6.92 mm in diameter and 4.60 mm high, stem thread is 0.9 mm. The one sitting here was far too small and is completely wrong compared to the original. The dial was very spotty and had lots of marks after many dives. And that the lume had got the greyish color. See photo 5. So full dismantling was needed, stripping everything, movment out, glass out, bezel ring dismantled from the case, cleaning of all parts. So when everything was cleaned up, the build-up could begin. First the old case tube had to be drilled and pulled out, so it was dismantled, and the new casetube was inserted with a crown. See photo 6. Found a crown that is quite similar in appearance and about the same size. Doxa is known to have very little parts to these olde watch available unfortunately. So finding original casetube with crown seems like a pretty impossible task. See photo 6. Did service work on the movment, ETA 2783, no parts had to be replaced, just a little tightening of canon pinion, because it was a little loose in motion. Painted bezel ring by original colors. See photo 7. When it comes to the dial, I wanted a crisp and fresh dial, so I chose to use an friend of mine who is an specialist in restoring dials, and who is the real magician when it comes to repaint of dials. See for yourself....See photo 8. Lumes on the hands and indexes was put on by me, had to mix ut a certain light cream color lume to match ut the right patina. Also managed to source a glass made according to original spec. which was fitted. Then after about 3 months, all parts were mounted in place, the work was installed, the test round was done with brilliant results. And I could finally take this piece of jewelry on my arm ... See photo 9. Beautiful!!! Go...Go....Switzerland !!!
  2. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  3. 5 points

    Look at this beauty "William Goffe"

    I have been asked to look this beauty. It is heavy and is real quality and the name on the dial is (I think) is William Goffe. On initial inspection it looks like the cord /gut has broken from one of the barrels. Also to open the front is via a key which is missing, I will investigate in a few weeks as I am away on a short break. I must say I can't wait to delve.
  4. 5 points

    Watch of Today

    I recently acquired a Citizen "box-o-parts" from the Bay. I got it because it had parts for a Citizen Jet which I need a proper case for mine. There was included several cases, dials hands, misc gears and 2 movements. When it arrived I found that one movement was a 27 jewel Jet with the automatic rotor assembly in pieces and missing the rotor weight. The other movement turned out to be a complete mid 60's 21 Jewel, Crystal seven. The balance was good and the mainspring was intact. I gave it a wind and it attempted to run. So I thoroughly cleaned it, assembled and lubed it and it took off running like a champ. I matched up a dial, hands and a complete case in the parts provided, and now, here it is on my wrist adding miles to the odometer. Yes, the crown is mismatched, but only I, and you, will know, lol.
  5. 5 points
    Depth of lock is something that you get a feel for when inspecting escapements. It needs to be deep enough to ensure that it is safely locked, and you can move the pallet fork across very slightly, release, and observe the “draw” to see what the action is like. On modern watches like these, I very rarely adjust thw locking. On adjustable banking pins (or at least bend-able), you always have to check it and will often find that they have been mis-adjusted. It seemed to be a common misconception that opening the banking pins was a quick fix for mis-locking. Bear in mind that if the pallet stones were moved to change the depth of lock then this also adjusts the drop. The angle of drop is wasted energy from the escapement as potential impulse is not translated into the balance while the escape wheel is disengaged from the pallets.
  6. 5 points

    My first Contribution - Heuer

    Hello All, this is my first contribution to this thread. I have been doing the lessons for sometime and thought that it is time I meet some of you! 1972 Heuer "Viceroy" Autavia fitted with a NOS Corfam band vintage Heuer buckle.
  7. 5 points

    Unknown tool

    It is for Barrels. Here is a photo of the type I had. The top gaps and bottom are for the width of the m/springs.
  8. 5 points


    A couple of tricks from industry guys, not Brand approved but proven at the bench: Uhu Patafix, the yellow one, is a decent Rodico substitute that doesn't leave visible residue. The white one doesn't work. You can't touch it with your fingers, only cots or the pegwood trick from above. The other one is contact cement. When dealing with black polished steel parts, in a new watch, they have to be impeccably clean. The trick is to dip toothpicks in the contact cement, so just a little bulb is at the tip, and set aside to dry. When casing up, any small marks or bits of stuff that won't blow off can be picked up with the tacky cement (it stays tacky a long time). It won't leave a residue on the steel. The fellow who told me this one used the cheapest contact cement he could find, it was some offbrand stuff. I tried Continental tire glue for bicycles (the one for gluing on racing tires, not patching inner tubes) and it worked fine.
  9. 5 points

    BSA C15

    It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.
  10. 4 points

    Super glue

    I have read several threads talking about using super glue for the repair watches. Whether or not I think it is the right way or the wrong way to fix something isn't my intention. I would gust like caution everyone that cyanoacrylate adhesives release vapors that can be very irritating to the eyes, damage the surfaces of some materials, as well as, negatively affecting electronic circuits, especially if allowed to set up in a confined space. The words of experience. Shane
  11. 4 points

    Second project PATO

    Everithing Worked by CNC machine, eta 2825/2, sandwich Dial painting custom, strap hand made, Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1A utilizzando Tapatalk
  12. 4 points
    Those diagrams are of non-capped jewels, which are not to be used for balance wheel pivots. Here is a diagram of what we are talking about: The dome is there to keep the oil in the center with capillary action when brought to contact with end stone. There should not be any shoulders on balance pivots, but a gradual slope. Only surfaces acting as bearing surfaces are around the tip of the pivots. Otherwise there would be too much friction.
  13. 4 points

    Question, HS in the family

    In the past, like over 50 years ago, each spring was vibrated to its balance. Each balance, while superficially identical, could be different enough from the next one in the box to make the hairsprings incompatible. The modern method is more automatic, the springs are colleted then cut to a given length, the terminal curve formed, stud attached. They are then each tested and graded into about 20 categories; the balances are likewise graded into 20 categories. If you look at the results of the categorization, it makes a nice bell curve, with the majority falling within perhaps 4-5 middle spots, the rest dispersed in decreasing numbers towards the ends. The balances and hairspring are just mated according to the category. If you try to mate a Cat 1 spring to a Cat 20 balance it won't work at all. If you try between Cat 9,10,11, it may work OK. Of course there's no way to know which one is which once it leaves the timing department of the factory. Balances with screws add a dimension of adaptability as you can add and remove weight easily. Solid balances can only have weight removed, and the adjustment is permanent.
  14. 4 points
    Here's a fresh upload on Thingiverse for 3D printing. A simplemovement holder for Miyota 8215, Clones and other variants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3501843
  15. 3 points

    omega 1012 would not beat

    Maybe your endhsake is insufficient. Loosen the balance cock a bit and lift the cock. Sometimes when swapping parts over the clearances could be different and lifting the cock a bit could make it run.. Its not a cure as the issue will still need to be resolved but at least you know where the problem lies. Anilv
  16. 3 points
    Update - resolved. After taking OldHippy's advice and removing the balance and pallet fork gave it a few turns - gears spun up but were reluctant to restart without encouragement. On closer inspection, there was a tiny strand of fabric wrapped around the escape wheel centre shaft. You can only imagine me elation when I grabbed the strand with tweezers and the gears spun into life. One happy chap.
  17. 3 points
    Yes - but you really need a roller rest and a lathe with index holes in the pulley wheel so you can turn accurately through 90 degrees
  18. 3 points
    Thank you Mark. I love this site and helping out. It keeps me sane.
  19. 3 points
    I thought you might be interested in this article that appeared on Hackaday https://www.empa.ch/web/s604/liga-watch
  20. 3 points


    How about this custom dial that's not a decal but made by hand and lacquered and lumed by me
  21. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    wearing today my rebuilt diver watch with parts from eBay and a used pre-owned dial from an OMEGA Seamaster
  22. 3 points

    New opening tools

    Best opening tool I ever bought. Expensive but worth every penny Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 3 points

    omega seamaster

    I've found the Cousins website helpful for finding Omega part numbers, just search for the case reference. https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=166.0020 The crystal diameter is 31.60 mm for this case reference. I would recommend getting the genuine Omega crystal as the profile of the crystal integral in sealing the case. https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2019/05/05/omega-seamaster-de-ville/
  24. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Something a bit different and my first LCD since the 80's I think. Casio WQV1-A camera watch from 2000. Very Q branch.
  25. 3 points
    Hi I Have actually made some of these tools , I fitted mine into some three eights dowel rod, I like the OP have found these useful as I think they give greater control, but like all balance spring work with either tweezers or these tools it requires great care and a steady hand.
  26. 3 points

    Mainspring service

    That made no sense at all mate. For a mainspring you can remove by hand, and you are correct with the grease and light oiling. As for putting the mainspring back in the barrel, I generally put mine in by hand but I also have a number of mainspring winders, no matter how I put them in the barrel I always wear either finger cots or latex gloves. These stop your hands getting greasy but more importantly stop contamination of the mainspring from the oils in your skin.
  27. 3 points

    Invicta Mod

    Hi everyone. Just wanted to share my watch for the day. Always wanted an Orange Doxa divers. So took it upon myself to do a mod that I could be proud of. After some research I decided to mod an Invicta 8926 with a NH35a movement. Just wanted to share the result with you guys. Best, Guido IMG_8200.HEIC
  28. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    An Ronda 1217-21 (pin lever version) Ingersol with a very attractive sunburst grey dial got a clean and service today. Its a pretty good looking watch, up close, almost perfect. If only they had pushed the boat out a bit more on the mechanism. Its running well now, with a good solid swing, and a steady rate. It arrived DOA. Old oil, filth, a cracked crystal and a deformed hairspring all had to be attended to.
  29. 3 points

    Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider"

    Hello, I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy ( +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required.
  30. 3 points
    Nothing wrong in that. I would have said the same thing. I expect you have rusty parts and that is why it won't release.
  31. 3 points

    Zodiac Astrographic

    Hi guys, Managed to snag a watch that's been on my wish list for the last few years.... a Zodiac Astrographic, It has the original band but a few mismatched links have been added. The band reminds me of the ones found on Rado watches of the period (NSA) down to the sprung clasp. The crystal has been polished... but its still a bit dull... looks like the did the coarse polish but forgot the finee grades. Will need to work on that and see if I can improve it, these crystals are not easy to get hold of and cost a bomb when they do come up for sale. The case has also been polished and has lost the radial brushing which is a big part of the attractiveness of these watches..I am not able to replicate that so it has to stay polished! The watch keeps time well.. (+4 secs/day) but I may open it up and give it a service anyway, these hi-beat movements need to be kept clean with fresh oil or they will wear out pretty fast. Not so much because of the high frequency but more because the mainspring is stronger than normal and this puts a lot of stress on the train. Here's some pictures. Anilv
  32. 3 points

    Valjoux 7733 Service

    Hi You will probably find these tech sheets useful doing the V7733 . all the best 1060_valjoux 7733, 7734, 7736 Pages 1-5.pdf 1061_valjoux 7733, 7734, 7736 Pages 6-10.pdf 1062_valjoux 7733, 7734, 7736 Pages 11-15.pdf
  33. 3 points


    Have you tried this company, https://www.balancestaffs.com/product.php?all=long With this company you can put in dimensions and do a search as well.
  34. 3 points

    70s Newmark Dive watch

    If I had a penny for every tiny component I have pinged into some parallel dimension, I'd probably have an 18 liter bucket of pennies. They usually turn up again, after a long search, or more likely, when you go looking for the next thing you loose.
  35. 3 points
    Well done indeed as jdm says there is much snobbism in watches and timex and the russian watches take the brunt of it. You do your own thing and enjoy doing it and learning at the same time. After all a Rolex and aTimex just tell the time, a watch is a watch the only thing relative is the cost.
  36. 3 points
    I think you'll find the link below interesting. As mentioned above it used to be 9010 was recommended on pallet stones even Seiko up until relatively recently was using it. Then 941 came into existence interestingly enough it's slightly lighter in viscosity than 9010. Then much later on 9415 classified as a grease for higher frequency Escapement's. 9415 has interesting properties it's a grease so it stays in place but on the impact it becomes fluid. Then if you look at current tech sheets they probably grasp that watchmakers are cheap and it's basically either or for 941 or 9415. Then I'm attaching a PDF Starting on page 13 is lubrication of a lever escapement. This is where things get really complicated 9415 has a problem if it is applied too heavy. So they explain how it has to be applied very very thinly. You'll also notice another term Lubrifar which is really just Molybdenum disulfide ETA And probably others have been using it for quite a number of years on the escape wheels. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  37. 3 points

    Complex display case back

    UPDATE Excellent idea from@jdm Nylon beveled cast filed at spoke levels: Pressed case back And crystal was out without struggle Thank you very much [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 3 points


    Ëven fingercots leave a trace. A tiny hair from your eyebrown or head an then it's great to just lift it up with some rodico. I use it all the time. For all sorts of things. Like lifting the balance jewel or holding the inca jewel to take the endcap of. Or chewing it when i am out of candy
  39. 3 points
    I don't use pliers to close the lid. Instead I use the brass tweezers. Not the ends but the mid section.
  40. 3 points
    The lift angle is not the issue one side of the beat is not correct. It could be a loose impulse jewel, a loose pallet jewel, a dirty pallet jewel or a dirty escape wheel. My first effort to resolve this is to check the pallet jewels for damage and tightness and if OK I would just clean again and lubricate again. Its amazing how the smallest amount of unwanted dirt can effect the performance. On a side note I very rarely bother to adjust the lift angle setting on the timographer unless I suspect it is way out. A smooth pattern on both sides of the beat and a decent amplitude is my goal.
  41. 3 points

    Whats wrong with my Omega?

    Are the hands catching on each other or the crystal ? is it stopping in the same place
  42. 3 points

    Homemade watch hand setters

    Hey All, I thought I'd share the plans for making watch hand setters. I wasn't able to get any cheaply or easily so I decided to make my own. A note of caution, turning small diameter PVC is a pain. I was able to after much trial and error, but the accuracy was pretty bad. To be fair I was using an enormous 13x48" engine lathe with a 3jaw chuck and HSS tools ground for steel so your results may vary. Design is based on pictures of other watch setters I found on the internet. I chose 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm and blunt tips. Cheers, Watch Hand Setter Drawing.pdf
  43. 3 points

    Cleaning a movement

    d-i-s-a-s-s-e-m-b-l-e-d! J
  44. 3 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    Well, when Nigel Farag's lot have dragged us all back to 1926, I'm sure we will all be measuring our cloth in cubits, drinking our beer by the firkin and tugging our forelocks to our imperial masters once more. In the meantime I'll stick with Napoleon's system.. apart from kilometers of course 'cos those are bonkers. Speaking of which.. Lincolnshire archaeologists have found the grave of what is believed to be Britain's oldest man. The headstone was discovered by the side of a road that was once an ancient trackway. Careful examination of the enigmatic carvings on the stone have revealed not just his age (147) but the fact that his name was Miles from London !!!
  45. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    This arrived today
  46. 3 points

    Homemade Tools

    We made quite a few tools in school but here's some more recent and useful ones I've made. A puller for strike cams on typical german clocks, a simple turret for 3 tools on the lathe (I often have small series of parts that need drilling and tapping: center drill, drill, tap), a collet holder for the polishing tripod as I have a good assortment of these little collets and they make polishing screws a breeze, and a dividing head for my mill. The latter is mostly modification; the mill is a Sixis 101, the spindle is a w20 model from a hydraulic automatic machine, the dividing head from a Schaublin 13 mill. Managed to strip the hydraulic spindle down and find a conventional drawbar, a bit of fanagling to get the head fitted, and now it's used mostly to make direct dividing plates for another gear cutting machine.
  47. 3 points
    Eye loupes have a sort of standard progression of working distance/magnification. If you look at the image, the "value" is the working distance in inches. Your 10x has 1 inch, which is pretty tight, and you'd only use that for inspection not general work. Most people use something between 2.5x and 5x for general work, I mostly use a 3x. As you go to higher powers it becomes more critical that the loupe be at the right distance, as your eye compensates for the little variations and the weaker the easier, so higher powers can be fatiguing. If you get an unmarked loupe in an Ebay score or flea market, you can determine the focal length by focusing the sun (like we did as kids with a magnifying glass) and measuring the distance from lens to object. This is essentially the same as the working distance, and then you know the power.
  48. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    I don't wear this one since it is NOS...but maybe one day.
  49. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Hi this is my first post, so be gentle. This is my work watch. I got it from eBay for about £17. It had trouble displaying the date. I rectified this by putting the correct sized cell in it and haven't looked back. The supplied cell was so big it pushed the date wheel against the internals causing it to catch.It has loads of scratches, the chrome has worn off, the dial is Sun bleached but it is water tight and the lume still shines. I love the look of it, real honest grafting watch. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
  50. 3 points

    Screwdriver Sharpening

    This should put your mind at rest. Click on this link. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/sdriver/sdriver.html
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