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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    As a complete novice I am somewhat nervous about offering tips to you experts. However I had occasion to remove the caseback from my GS Mk2 pocket watch. It is so well machined there is virtually no visible joint to put a blade in without scratching it plus I did not know if it was screw on or not. I was thinking I needed a suction device which I don't have. After a few vodkas I came up with the idea of using the suction windscreen mount off my Garmin sat nav. It worked a treat. I also used it on my stepdaughter's Rolex ''replica'' which is tiny and has the authentic style Rolex caseback. I'm sure you guys have tools for every occasion but this tip might just get a hobbyist like myself out of trouble.
  2. 7 points

    De-tangling the tangled hairspring

    I received a lys Longines 5L for cleaning. Upon opening the case, I saw some surprises under the balance bridge. I have outlined my steps on how I uncoil a tangled hairspring in hopes that others can benefit by this method. George Corder IMG_0505.m4v
  3. 6 points
    This is a more detailed version of my previous picture-only post for this watch. This Bulova 21-jewel automatic was given to me by a colleague for repair. It was running extremely fast – gaining about 15 minutes per hour. The movement is a Citizen/Miyota 82S0 skeleton. Looking through the clear back it was obvious that the balance amplitude was extremely low. First step was to simply demagnetize the watch to see if that did the trick as it sometimes does. No dice. I then removed the balance and pallets and put a small amount of wind onto the mainspring. The train spun up but as power wore off the escape wheel stopped, then started again several times. It was a very sloppy action. Nothing obvious in terms of loose or cracked jewels or excessive side or end shake that I could see. I decided to disassemble the movement and give it a full servicing. Here is how I disassembled the movement. Where I can I will list the Miyota part number for reference. You can find the parts list here: http://miyotamovement.com/parts_search.php?open=82S0 Figure 1 shows the face of the watch after removing from the case. Note the exposed balance at the 7 o’clock position. Figure 1 – Face Figure 2 shows the clear case back prior to removing the movement. Figure 2 – Case back The first step in disassembly is to remove the Oscillating weight (119-A17. Note that the weight is secured to a bearing that is pressed into the main plate. Unlike many Swiss movements, the screw securing the weight rotates with the weight itself. I used a peg wood stick to prevent the weight from rotating while unscrewing the fastener. Figure 3 shows the weight prior to removal. Figure 4 shows the oscillating weight after removal. Figure 3 – Preparing to remove the oscillating weight Figure 4 – Oscillating weight Figure 5 shows the movement after removing the oscillating weight. The plastic movement holder (500-710) is also visible. This will be removed after dealing with the hands and dial. I also removed the winding stem (figure 6) by pressing in on the setting lever and gently pulling the stem. The location for pressing on the setting lever was clipped from the pic, but it’s a standard setup. Figure 5 – Plastic movement holder Figure 6 – Winding stem After removing the stem, the movement was removed from the case. The stem was then reinstalled to facilitate power let-down, etc. With the oscillating weight removed, it’s a simple matter to lay the movement down dial-up on a piece of pith wood and remove the hands (Figure 7). The dial retaining screws on the side of the movement are loosened (not removed) and the dial is gently coaxed away from the movement by inserting a thin screwdriver blade. Figure 8 shows the dial after removal. Figure 7 – Hands Figure 8 – The Dial The movement holder shown in figure 5 is now lifted off. It is shown in figure 9 next to the movement. Figure 9 – Movement holder ring Figure 10 shows the dial side of the movement. Figure 10 – Dial side The movement is then flipped dial down and loaded into a movement holder for disassembly. The balance (039-102) is removed along with the balance bridge (710-191) as shown in figure 11. Figure 11 – Preparing to remove balance The balance complete is shown after removal in figure 12. Figure 12 – The balance complete Important: Before removing the pallets I need to remove all the power from the mainspring. I do this in the standard way – by applying a bit of winding pressure on the crown while pulling the click (060-390 in figure 11) out of the way with a bit of peg wood and allowing the stem to unwind in a slow/controlled manner. Figure 13 – About to remove pallets With the power let down I can now remove the pallet bridge (708-066) and pallets. Figure 13 shows the bridge prior to removal. The pallets and bridge are shown in figure 14. Figure 14 – Pallets and pallet bridge I probably should have removed the motion work prior to starting in on the balance – not sure why I didn’t. Regardless, we need to flip the movement back so I can remove the motion work from the dial side. The hour wheel is held in place by the hour wheel spring (176-109). Remove the 2 retaining screws and then lift off the spring. The spring is shown prior to removal in figure 15. Figure 15 – Hour wheel spring prior to removal Once the hour wheel spring is out of the way I can remove the dial washer (078-140), the hour wheel (075-124) and finally the cannon pinion (using your favorite cannon pinion removal tool). These parts are shown after removal in figure 16. Figure 16 – Hour wheel spring, hour wheel, dial washer and cannon pinion Figure 17 shows the movement after removal of the motion work. It’s now time to flip the movement back over and start in on the gear train. Figure 17 – After removing the motion work I remove the three screws securing the barrel and train wheel bridge (701-F52) and carefully remove it. Figure 18 shows the underside of the bridge. Note that the seconds pinion friction spring (903-690) was left in place. I didn’t see the point in removing it. You can also see the oscillating weight bearing that is press fit into the bridge. I didn’t mess with this either! Figure 18 – Barrel and train wheel bridge and seconds pinion friction spring Figure 19 shows the detail after removing the barrel and train wheel bridge. First, I remove the reduction gear (088-120) and reversing wheel (141-190). These components are part of the automatic winding mechanism. They are shown in figures 20 and 21 after removal. I make note that the reversing wheel should be installed with the brass side up. Figure 19 – After removing barrel and train wheel bridge Figure 20 – Reduction gear Figure 21 – Reversing wheel Next, remove the third wheel (017-760), fourth wheel (023-940) and escape wheel (032-106). These are shown in figure 22. Figure 22 – From left to right – escape wheel, fourth wheel and third wheel Next, I remove the ratchet wheel (059-560) and the barrel complete (001-870), which sits directly underneath the ratchet wheel. Th.ese components are shown in figures 23 and 24. Figure 23 – Ratchet wheel Figure 24 – Barrel complete Looking back at figure 19, you can see a spring, very similar to a dial washer. This part is called the ratchet sliding wheel spring (078-150). Simply lift it off (figure 25). Figure 25 – Ratchet sliding wheel spring With the spring out of the way I can now see the ratchet sliding wheel (087-250). I remove this part along with the crown wheel (058-360). Figure 26 shows these parts. Ah – finally a picture that shows the setting lever release button I mentioned earlier! Pressing here allows the stem to be removed. I will leave the stem in place for now. Will get to it shortly. Figures 27 and 28 show the parts just removed. Figure 26 – Crown wheel and ratchet sliding wheel Figure 27 – Crown wheel Figure 28 – Ratchet sliding wheel Figure 29 shows the click (060-390) and click spring (903-700), the center wheel cock (711-074), center wheel (012-116) and center seconds pinion (025-670). Technically I believe the center wheel cock should be named the center wheel bridge since it’s secured by more than one screw, but I’ll leave that open for debate. Tension on the center seconds pinion is provided by the friction spring we saw back in figure 18. Figure 29 – Click and spring, center wheel and cock, center seconds pinion Figure 30 depicts the click and click spring after removal. Figure 30 – Click and click spring Figure 31 shows the center wheel in place after the center wheel cock has been removed. Figure 31 – After removal of the center wheel cock Figure 32 depicts these parts after removal. Figure 32 – Center wheel cock, center wheel and center seconds pinion The train side of the movement is now fully stripped. This is shown nicely in figure 33. Time to flip it over and finish off the dial side. Figure 33 – Finished with the train side Figure 34 shows the current state of the dial side of the movement. To get started I remove the minute train cover (079-890). Figure 35 shows this component after removal. Figure 34 – Dial side Figure 35 – Minute train cover I can now remove the keyless work. The components are shown in figure 36. The minute wheel (072-520) and setting wheel (076-430) are removed first. These components are shown in figure 37 along with the minute train cover. Figure 36 – Keyless work components Figure 37 – Minute and setting wheel Referring back to figure 36, the next components to remove are the yoke (071-510) and setting lever spring (077-690). The stem can now be removed and then the clutch (064-450) is free to remove. The setting lever (067-860) was not removed as it’s press button is staked (spread). No sense disturbing this. Figure 38 shows the yoke and setting lever spring after removal. The clutch is shown in figure 39. Figure 38 – Yoke (left) and setting lever spring Figure 39 - Clutch Finally, the main plate is fully stripped. The dial side is shown in figure 40. Figure 40 – Main plate – dial side We can now deal with the barrel assembly (figure 41). Figure 41 – Mainspring barrel complete Using the steel anvil for support, gently press down on the gear teeth to pop the barrel cover off (figure 42). Figure 42 – Barrel cover removed Carefully remove the barrel arbor (figure 43). Figure 43 – Barrel arbor Unwind the mainspring from the barrel (figure 44). Figure 44 – Barrel with spring removed This completes the disassembly of the movement. My next step will be to clean it in the ultrasonic. Will post the reassembly as a new thread.
  4. 6 points

    Making a New Balance Staff

    I am making a new balance staff for an 18S Waltham. I think the balance is friction fit, however, my first cut 1.45mm was a bit too much and the balance fits but is not tight enough. I decided to leave a little lip so I can rivet it on as well (let's see how that goes:). I then cut the hairspring part at 0.9mm and the pivot at 0.12mm; cut down to 0.2 and then reduced using a stone. I had to move the Steel Rod out as I had worked my way in too far with a failed first cut on the balance part. I then cut the roller table side and angled the largest diameter. Tonight I cut the lower pivot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. 6 points

    Bulova 11BLAC parts

    The unwritten rule with watch repair is don't apply force to anything. I have not worked on this movement but I presume these wheels where on posts. The way to remove is by using the correct puller as below. Or a very straight pull.
  6. 6 points
    When I joined the site I had only a passing interest in clocks but I have over the last couple of years started to buy more and more they are starting to take over every shelf window ledge and free space I have here are just a few of the clocks I have picked up over the last 6 months. The first one is a Walnut Lenzkirch ting tang clock bought off the bay of evil, I paid £70.00 and had to go to Hull to collect it, the clock had suffered quite a bit of neglect over its 100 plus years and had been stored somewhere damp it had areas of lifting veneer. all the varnish had deep scratches and the movement suffered from a fair bit of rust in fact when I picked it up my heart sank here are a few picks before I started working on the clock. I have cleaned the movement, I use brasso cotton wadding and clean by hand, and brasso and a medium brush to clean the wheels and small parts I then wash in nothing more than warm soapy water and clean out the pivot holes using pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol for the larger holes, and cotton thread or peg wood for the smaller holes I then dry and brush with french chalk pivots are burnished on my lathe I usually replace all taper pins on a clock of this age as most are pretty chewed up the springs are removed inspected, replaced if needed and oiled. The bulk of the work on this clock was on the case the lifting veneer was glued and clamped in place, there was a crack running down the middle of the clock front I have filled this with filler, I use a white filler and paint the surface once dry and sanded with watercolour paints to match the colour of the wood there are various coloured fillers available but I find these a waste of time. The back door panel was broken into four parts, it had been glued at some point in it's life but was a bit of a mess, I removed the old glue then re glued and clamped until dry, I have replaced the cloth on the back door the old cloth had rotted, having no knowledge of what the cloth was I have replaced it with a red satin cloth I have no idea if this is the correct cloth to use. The vast majority of clocks of this age are varnished with shellac based varnishes it was in such poor state the only option was complete removal, this I do with very fine steel wool 0000 grade soaked in methylated spirits I would never use sandpaper on a clock case other than on small filled areas, the steel wool breaks the surface of the varnish and allows the spirits to do the work after a bit of light rubbing the varnish turns to a sludge that can be wiped of with a cloth, again soaked in spirits the advantage of steel wool is it kinder to the wood surface and can be easily worked into corners and detailed areas. I then french polish the case leaving a hour between coats after every 5th coat i rub down again with very fine wire wool and start again applying coats it is a time consuming process and there is no easy way to do it. French polish will darken quite quickly with age but you can add spirit dyes to it if you wish to change the colour or if the colour is not to your liking. The dial and bezel where cleaned and polished then re laquered and the inner bezel cleaned re silvered and laquered This clock has a plaque on the front it was a gift to the Rev T. Salusbury Jones from the congregation of his first pastorate in 1901, I can never resist looking up the people on these plaques. Clocks where a very popular gift to vicars in the 1900's and I have three such clocks, the Rev Salusbury Jones had three sons whilst at Sutton Valence church sadly two lost their lives in the trenches of the great war and there is a local Sutton Valence history web site that tells the story of how his sons where killed in the war. I still have a little work to do on the clock the gongs where rusty so I have cleaned them with fine wire wool but I need to blue them but they are quite large so im thinking of buying a electric hotplate so I can blue them and any others I may have to do in future. I also need to clean the decorative band around the top it just needs cleaning with a cotton bud and spirits as it has residue from rubbing with the wire wool and looks a bit dirty. The next two clocks are french striking clocks with slate cases the Brocot is a 14 day duration by Samuel Marti the other is a 8 day by Richard and co. Both are rack striking movements and are very easy to work on I think they are more prone to wear on the striking train but are generally very robust movements. Both these clocks where very grey in appearance when bought, the easiest way to restore these cases rather than buying the various potions available is to rub the case with baby oil, Literally 2 drops on a duster and a bit of elbow grease and all the grey areas return to black you really do not need to use a lot once the case is back to black use a wax polish and case comes up like new. I also love carriage clocks and when ever I see them cheap on Ebay I buy them three of the clocks in the next picture cost no more than 30 pounds with the cheapest being £22.00 bought from a antiques centre the same day I picked the Lenzkirch up from hull I try where possible to buy with original platform escapements but where they have been replaced with modern ones I replace as soon as I can, as is the case with the next clock Two things attracted me to the above clock the shape of the case and the buy it now price of £30.00 free postage it was listed as not working, but the only thing wrong is it hadnt been cleaned in a very long time, the clock had a new platform fitted I would guess in the 60's 70's so I have replaced it with one from the late Victorian period that is correct for the period this clock was made I have re laquered the case with a mid gold Horolaq laquer. I source platforms from antique centres and ebay there are many unloved clocks hanging around antique centres and if it's cheap and has a platform I buy it and use it for parts the platform I used in this clock came from a clock with a case beyond repair and missing its back but the platform was good it cost me £8.00. I haven't really gone into detail on how I clean a clock in this post and the light has been against me today as far as photography has gone but I have a clock hopefully coming next week so will do a full walk through of how I clean a clock and hopefully any one who spots any thing wrong in what I do will tell me.
  7. 6 points

    Polite question and answers only

    Moderators perform an essential role in any community, but all have checks and balances. I am the main admin and even I have to control myself in order to attempt to maintain a friendly forum. I am sorry you were prompted to create this thread - I think I know the reason. I am extremely busy at the moment creating new content for the course BUT I want it known that I still monitor very closely the security of the software. I cannot, however, have time to monitor each and every thread - that's why we have the "REPORT POST" feature (which people can use in order to notify moderators and myself of potential problems). It is discouraging and makes the community look bad when we see lack of patience and bickering so please do use this feature and hopefully we can keep this community growing. This is not the largest watch forum on the net - but I did start it with a vision for being among the friendliest
  8. 6 points

    Specs Way Off After Reassembly

    Ok. This has gone far enough. We are all here to help each other. I fear this thread is not going in the direction the OP intended and as the issue is pretty much resolved I will close the thread. To the OP: if the issue is not resolved and you wish me to reopen the thread then Please PM me and I will do so. Anybody who does not wish to be involved in any threads can easily unsubscribe from notifications at the top of the page. I think we all need a beer and chill Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  9. 5 points

    My first "NEW" watch

    Thought I would post my first new watch... This was the first thing I bought when I came aboard the USS L.Y. Spear as a young Seaman back in 1974. I still wear it regularly, in rotation with my other watches...
  10. 5 points

    Good bye

    I personally think it would be much better if there was more restraint shown about moving posts. Moving a newbies post is one thing, but for a long time user to have a post moved is annoying. Not even the courtesy of finding out the users intention, just wham. post moved. It's annoying, and I have enough trouble finding time to participate, and having to deal with these little irritations makes me less likely to make the effort. That's why I don't do posts that take a lot of effort, like walkthroughs, because I know they they won't stay unmolested, regardless of my intentions. This is a solvable problem. Either leave the posts alone, or provide a way that these posts can be built without having to do them in one swell foop. Using too narrow of a definition is not helpful, either. If you want a category of "make-overs" then please provide a place for them. Just be aware that if you go down that road, you will find that you have to move *every* post, and not just the obvious mistakes. People will inevitably gravitate toward the most general category, and pay less and less attention to the sub-forums. More work for the admins. Maybe that's OK, but notice that this forum software wasn't built to be operated that way, and some features will break. It happens now. David
  11. 5 points

    Seiko 7548. . rescue

    Hi guys.. I don't really like working on quartz watches but I do make an exception for the Seiko 7548. I came across this at a flea-market for MYR20 (USD5) so I figured I'd try to get it working. Its actually a 7546 but theres not much difference. The 7548 has five jewels and the 7546 has to make do with only four. The hands have the usual black stuff which is what remains of the original lume. First thing I checked is if the hands set, unfortunately it only does part of the way. Forwards the minute hand sticks at the 50 minute mark and backwards it gets stuck around the hour mark. Day date sets ok. Typically grotty caseback. This is a 7546-7130 It has a full length bracelet.. that's good! What's not so good is the amount of dirt. Those with a weak stomach should look away now. I finally open the caseback and look inside.... what I see is usually enough to throw it into the bin. The battery needs to be physically pried off as the corrosion has made it stick to the movement. Once removed I find this. The corrosion is pretty bad but I've seen worse. In this case the two contacts for the battery are still present and stand up to the prods from my tweezer. Sometimes they are corroded beyond use and break off. The dial resembles a starry night sky. You'd pay a lot of money if this was a high end swiss watch but this is bassically a reaction from the cases released when the battery acid oxidises. That sh\t wont buff out. The stuff under the dial is the same as on the 6309 automatic movement. Looks good so far. But the hour wheel was stuck to the cannon pinion and thats was what made setting the hands impossible. When this happens the keyless works usually suffer broken/worn teeth as people try to force the crown around. Those parts on this watch look ok. Here we have a picture of the underside of the date advance. The date advance is made of plastic so its in pretty ok condition but the mainplate has a lot of corrosion. Next off is the circuit block. More corrosion (the black stuff).. it can be scraped off with pegwood. And the coil is carefully lifted out and put away safely. Here we can see the effect of the battery juices on the watch mainplate. train bridge is heavily discoloured and most likely the pivots as well but its in the battery cavity that the corrosion is heaviest. The (+) contact (held by screw) shows sign of corrosion. If this breaks off the movement is not worth repairing. but luckily it comes off in one piece. I finally remove the train bridge and lift it off. I made a mistake here as the stem is out and the movement is 'hacked' with the hacking part contacting the wheel. Mot really a problem but more important to remember this for the assembly. The wheels are stuck in the pivots so thats not good. Need to inspect them carefully to see if they are reusable. Reference pic to show how the various wheels go together. Bare mainplate ready for cleaning So is the watch worth fixing? Frankly no. The dial is beyond salvage, the damage to the wheel pivots may affect the performance of the watch (surprisingly the pivots look good at high magnification) but the most important issue is the coil and circuit board. They are no longer available from Seiko and this particular watch is never going to be worth the money to source one from other sources. Having said that.. I will check the coil and circuit board and if they are in working condition then I will re-install it and use the watch for a while. Even if I do get the watch to work, I foresee that the eventual fate of the movement will be as a donor for a 7548 diver watch as this seems to be the only quartz watch still in demand. Will post updates.
  12. 5 points

    Recent Repair

    I just finished repairing a Hamilton #940 21j open face 18size P/W. made in 1909 I have been working on it as I get the parts needed. I cleaned it , replaced the mainspring, balance staff, pallet jewels, top balance stone , and crystal . I had a bit of trouble with the timing , but finally got it to 20 seconds a day, which I can live with. While doing that I finished a painting for an up coming show called "Kathleen Louise Passing Bald Head " So I'm happy today
  13. 5 points
    That’s nice to know. You can never stop learning. The internet was not around when I was an apprentice. I learned from my master. It just goes to show I’m an old fart. I enjoy the forum so much in helping others with knowledge that I have gained over the years.
  14. 5 points

    Watch of Today

    Made in Croydon circa 1938, a lovely example of a pin pallet movement. Sadly I sacrificed two hairsprings to achieve the geometry I was looking for. Very pleased with the accuracy given its age. I’d love to put it on a timegrapher to check the beat error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 5 points
    Well when I said old tool, here's a internet copy of a 1899 watchmakers suppliers catalogue similar tools appear on page 102 of the catalogue they may have at the time forgot to add your name to there mailing list . https://archive.org/details/20thcenturycatal00purd It does make interesting reading as a catalogue thats over 100 years old there are some very familiar old tools listed.
  16. 5 points

    New Watch Repairman (Lady)

    I have finally found time to post the pictures of the lot that I bought. There are more that I have bought one by one, however, these came all in one package (with batteries!). I have fixed most with just a battery change. Any other Mickey Mouse Watch fans out there? I have turned into a MM watch collector and I LOVE IT!
  17. 5 points

    Pin Pallet Beat

    The pivots on these pocket watches need to have a sharp point. I used to re-point them in my lathe using an arkansas stone with a drop of oil. You need to make sure the cups are good as they wear on the inside and can be very rough. You should be able to get an estimate where to pin by refitting the balance and threading the hairspring so the impulse pin is in the centre of the pallet fork.
  18. 5 points
    OK. This is the sort of thing that I might get into. I'm happy to help if I can when you get stuck. With regards to the movement, here's the easy answer: Log in and join RolexForums.com and check the for sale section. Recently a member there had (several) NOS 3135 movements for (if memory serves) $2000.00 each. That's a good price and it will have that off your plate. Yes, it's two grand, but you can easily amass that in replacement parts, assuming you don't cause collateral damage during tear-down or re-assembly... And, the upside is that the swamped movement can be retained for you to learn and work on at your leisure. I noticed a question regarding refinishing the dial. I would avoid this. These Yacht-Masters have a platinum plated textured dial. I encourage you to make friends with your local dealer's watchmaker (if they even have one on staff) and arrange a service dial from Rolex. This is ONLY done on an exchange basis, and must go through an authorized retailer. You may be able to get one through the selling members on RolexForums too- I do see loose dials there often so it is possible. I don't know if the exchange will be less than a purchase through the forum, but you should avoid refinishing because it's not a simple job (and therefore will be expensive). DO NOT buy this dial on eBay unless it is sealed in a Rolex blister pack. Fakes abound... You will need a new set of hands too. And the bezel assembly (I think the insert is Platinum as well so sit down before requesting the quote) Case restoration- you need gaskets at the very least, crystal obviously (these are easy to get) and a crown tube tool. CasKer has the tools (decent quality) for not a ton of money. The tube needs to come out, have all threads inspected/cleaned, new O-rings installed and the tube re-installed with low strength locktite (purple). Maybe you should consider new tube and crown (I would). That's a 703 crown and tube. Those can be found on eBay for a few hundred bucks pretty easily. Again, make sure they are sealed in their blister unless you are VERY sure of the seller and the part you are buying. Maybe the case needs a buff. There is no easier way to destroy a Rolex case than to take it to the buffing wheel. THIS is an absolute art, and should be left alone. Get a Sunshine cloth for the polished sides and be happy with that. Seriously. If it's really ugly, send it to a pro. Maybe ABC watchworks out west- someone who specializes in vintage stuff. They will preserve the case shape where even the local Rolex repair center may not. I do my own, but I know my limitations and those were learned the hard way... But the case needs to be absolutely clean. Tear it completely down (you will probably need the bezel removal tool in addition to the case back tool shown above) and reduce it to all it's parts. Remove all traces of old o-ring that may be present. I like Acetone for this- it may need to soak a while. All oil, dirt, old o-ring etc. must be gone. Then, assuming it is polished to your satisfaction, the reassembly process can begin. Also mentioned above (I do this exact same thing) take a picture of EVERY disassembly step as you go. That goes for the case as well as the movement. Something you were not focused on during disassembly may become critical for reassembly. This is really easy now with phones.
  19. 5 points

    How am I supposed to get this out

    A safer route would be a small pin vice, less chance of damaging the screw...
  20. 5 points

    How to separate third wheel from bridge?

    What you have is an indirect centre seconds configuration where the third wheel has an extended staff that comes up through the bridge to the back of the movement. An intermediate centre seconds drive wheel is friction fit onto the extended staff which couples with the centre seconds pinion. you will probably find there is a friction spring sitting on top of the centre seconds pinion to control the inevitable stutter that these design suffer from. This was the how all centre seconds configurations were executed when centre seconds first became a thing. It's a perfectly good way to achieve centre seconds without bu$$ering about too much with the rest of the movement but it has a couple of drawbacks. The stuttering is one of them, the other is it makes the movement quite thick. Anyway, the circular plate that you refer to is not a separate part, it is a thickening of the hub of the intermediate wheel in order to provide enough meat for a competent friction fit on the staff. There is a Presto tool specifically designed for removing these, and I have also seen some very nice pullers that people have made, but a pair of very thin levers or blades usually does the trick if you are careful. And you do have to be careful. The extended staff does not take kindly to anything other than a perfectly vertical lift; cant the wheel off of erpendicular to the staff and the staff will snap. Reinstall using a staking tool to keep everything nice and true.
  21. 4 points

    Hamilton poster reprint available

    I just received my copy of the "How a watch works" poster, originally produced by the Hamilton watch company. It's now being reprinted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. They have two sizes available, 18x24 and 24x36. This is the smaller one, and will get framed and go in my watch room!
  22. 4 points

    Hairspring Frustration

    Thanks for all the support guys. I tried to follow as much advice as I had the competence to and cleaning it again has made a massive difference. I agitated it fairly carefully for a few minutes in IPA and helped it to dry carefully with my blower while it was flat. I did then dangle for a minute or two more to let final vapours evaporate (sorry@jdm I couldn’t resist!) Looked much better even by eye and here is the result from a half wind after a few minutes adjusting and regulating. Whilst I accept that’s not perfect I’ll take that; it’s a 20 year old cheap Seiko with a slightly distorted HS that didn’t work at all last week. Again, thanks for all the advice and support guys. Pip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 4 points

    Tick by frame?

    Thought I'd try something different.... My first every stop frame video... https://youtu.be/srqzHXbt3DI
  24. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    I got this Bulova Oceanographer for a good price several month ago only to find out that the movement was incomplete . Actually , I didn't even know what the proper movement for it was supposed to be . After some research and inquiries on the Bulova forum I decided that the Automatic movement 11ANACB was the likely contender , so after a few failed attempts to at securing the missing parts with great help from my buddy and fellow forum member , ramrod , I finally got this puppy running again . A nice looking watch in the flesh even if my pics don't do it justice .
  25. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    I am a sucker for coin silver interestingly engraved 18s pocket watches (wow that was a mouthful) This is a Waltham 18s Ellery 11jewel hunter made in 1885in a coin silver case. It was a bit sad when I bought it . I striped it down cleaned it, replaced the mainspring , replaced the crystal, installed a new balance jewel and cleaned what turned out to be a really great looking case that was black. As I said I love an interesting engraved case, and this Huge Bull is great. Tell me what you think & show your interesting cases