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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    JBerry

    Unitas 6497 Custom Watch

    Hey folks, I'd like to share a watch I put together for my Brother's birthday. The movement is a pretty old Unitas 6497 which I picked up from the widow of a watchmaker a year or so back, the plates have been skeletonised and I'm pretty sure this was a once off job by the watchmaker. The mainplate is brass, and the decorated bridge plates appear to have been plated (quite crudely, when inspected under a loupe). The movement is keeping great time now that it is serviced. I made an attempt at a logo using the film-free transfer technique Mark has used in a couple of recent Youtube videos. The logo didn't adhere very well to the dial, not particularly happy with it. In person and to the naked eye it looks pretty good I think. The case is a 41mm case I picked up from Ofrei, who I sourced the dial and hands from also. Hope ye like it!
  2. 9 points
    oldhippy

    Something to lighten the day.

    Four Catholic men and a Catholic woman were having coffee. The first Catholic man tells his friends, "My son is a priest, when he walks into a room, everyone calls him 'Father'." The second Catholic man chirps, "My son is a Bishop. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Grace'." The third Catholic gent says, "My son is a Cardinal. When he enters a room everyone says 'Your Eminence'." The fourth Catholic man then says, "My son is the Pope. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Holiness'." Since the lone Catholic woman was sipping her coffee in silence, the four men give her a subtle, "Well....?" She proudly replies, "I have a daughter, slim, tall, 38D breast, 24" waist and 34" hips. When she walks into a room, people say, "Oh My God!"
  3. 9 points
    Delroyb

    Showing off. My new workshop setup

    Thought I would show off my new workshop. It has taken my the best part of 6 months to construct the building, then fit it all out, but finally have the space I wanted. It's a 6.5x3m building, split in half with office/watch workshop in one half and machine room in the other.
  4. 9 points
    Mark

    Trolls, Spammers & One-timers.....

    Very true. And I do feel very uncomfortable forcing people to introduce themselves before interacting in other areas. But I am willing to listen - this is a membership site and we all have a stake in it's success. The reason why I have never forced introductions in the past is because people should have choice - new members have a choice to introduce themselves as well as existing members have a choice to simply ignore their questions. I must say - I am a little disappointed that this is an issue as the original intent of this forum was to be a help towards others with less knowledge as well as a community where all levels of horologists and enthusiasts could come together and simply be - and be relaxed. With that in mind - I have a solution, and it is a very very simple one. .... 1. I am not going to enforce an introduction policy, but I will make it more clear that members of this site will consider it polite if people do so first. ( I will work on making this prominent in the welcome email and I will make this clear with a information box at the top of the forum which only new members will be able to see). 2. If a new member posts a question without introducing themselves then, and here's the simple part, existing members who may be offended by this do not have to participate in that thread. We even have an ignore function on this forum if you feel that strongly about it. 3. Any member, both new or old who harasses new members, and it's reported to me, will be warned - persistent harassment's will result in a ban. A Word Of Encouragement... One-hitters who don't even reply sometimes are extremely annoying. Especially if you have crafted a three paragraph response with pictures and the OP does not even acknowledge your reply. It sucks. BUT - remember this. This is a public forum which gets indexed by search engines. Your replies are never a waste of time - it's all good content which will be read many hundreds or thousands of time - there is no telling how many people you will have eventually helped - with this in mind, it does not even matter who starts the conversation, your replies and the passing on of knowledge will stay on this site for people to find for years to come. It's not a waste of time.
  5. 8 points
    jdrichard

    Making a Balance Staff

    Need to make a balance staff for a European picket watch. The old staff had both pivots broken off. First I disassembled the watch and removed the balance staff. Removing the roller table was the hardest part because it was a Three arm balance and my Magic Roller Remover would not work so I used the scissor type. I then determined the widest diameter of the balance staff and found a 2.0 mm piece of Blued Steel. I cut off 1 inch and sized the collet, and inserted in into my Boley Leinen Lathe. I then started to cut the Balance and Hairspring side by first using the old staff as a guide and marking the piece of steel with my carbide graver. I started cutting down the first diameter where the balance fits and simply cut and measure until it was snug but still room to stake it in place. I then cut the hairspring diameter next and fix and cut repeatedly until it was snug. I used a special gauge to measure as I went along. Once the part fit was good I worked on the pivot with the graver until I got it down to around 0.2 mm and then used a stone to get it to around 0.14. The rest I plan to do on a Jacot tool. I then flipped the part around with a different collet and started working the Roller Table side using the same technique. I Amos finished off the plate where both the rolled table on one side and the balance on the other side rest. Slight error in the description. I left the full part in and started working on the roller table side before cutting off the part and flipping it around...saves time. I worked on the other pivot as well and got it down to 0.14 with a graver and then a stone...on the Lathe. The final product looked great. I am waiting for a set of vintage pin gauges to get the pivot size exact. Will finish it off next week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. 7 points
    Deggsie

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 7 points
    Endeavor

    Pocket-watch hand repair ....

    Thought it may be worth to share; I received a pretty beaten up, none-running 1890-1900 cylinder-escapement pocket-watch. It had all sorts of problems, a list too long to go into details. Among those problems was a bend/broken minute hand. It inevitably broke off when trying to straighten it. The center-hole diameter of the minute-hand was 0.5mm and the length was 15mm. The hour-hand had a hole diameter of 2.0mm and the length was 10mm. Searching the internet to find an identical set proofed futile. The watch is a heirloom so originality was a priority. The hands turned out the be made of bronze, a copper-tin alloy. Therefor it made sense to attempt soldering but the part that had to be soldered had a thickness of only 0.3mm. Both parts had to be fixed in place with a sort of clamp capable to fixing both parts, being heat resistant and "none-sticking". A soldering iron, even with the smallest tip, would be far too big for the job and to avoid touching the parts, I choose to use a hot-air gun used in electronics for soldering SMD-components to a circuit-board. A few test were made which tin to use and at which temperatures. 300 degrees C with tin used in electronics seemed to work fast and made the tin to flow nicely. I used a soldering flux-paste. The clamp consisted of two metal rails, slightly diverting from each other to give many clamping options, bolted on a plate of gypsum. Pulling over a #1000 grid sand paper, I made two 45 degrees chamfered edges on either end of both parts; The two parts were clamped in; Applied some soldering flux, heated it all up to 300 deg.C and applied a tiny bit of tin. Once cooled down, I removed some excess tin with a small diamond file. Here a picture of the back side of the minute-hand; And here the front; the tin didn't flow further away from the soldered joint or around the edges Most likely not the strongest repair in the world, but when not touched it should be strong enough to do the job. On the picture the hand color looks black, but that's due to the lighting. In reality the hand hasn't lost any of its shiny patina at the front ...... Anyway, I thought to share this repair as one of the many different possibilities
  8. 7 points
    MattWatch

    Some past projects and keepers!

    Hi All, Now, to start with I should say that my watch repaires are nowhere near the caliber (......see what i did there?) of some on this forum, but everyone started somehwhere right? Up until now I have been into costmetically restoring watches that run but have been somewhat unloved. Out of that I have started getting into the mechanical side too, I'm currently building up a FL Twin Power movement (one that I did not take apart) using the age old "yep, that seems to fit there" and "hmm that doesn't look quite right" methods! Some resources on this very forum have also been extremely useful. I can get the odd dead watch re-started, but a full strip down, service and rebuild is where i would like to get to. As i say mainly cosmetic work, the interest for me is taking something that looks completely unloved and turning into something that will be cherished. My watches have been bought for birthday presents, wedding presents, something that's being bought specifically to hold onto and pass down to the next generation, and that's what it's all about for me. Anyway, some examples for y'all Hamilton Self-Winding: Stunning Louis Erard Triple Date: Longines: Omega Geneve (never did try to sort that bottom lug out just in case): Oris 15 Jewel: Oris Super: Roamer Popular: Rotary 17 Jewel GP: 70s Seiko Auto: Seiko SeaHorse: Tissot Visodate Seastar Seven: Tudor: Old Timex: Thought I'd leave it there as you're probably getting a bit bored That's probably about 10% of the watches I've done over the past couple of years!! In terms of my own 'keepers', I don't actually have that many. A couple below: Tissot Seastar that I fell in love with the moment i put it on: Oversized Tissot Antimagnetique, which i sold and then pretty much begged the buyer to sell back to me. Which he did.....but failing to mention that hands were fused together. So i wound it not realising, and it's now broken and slightly in bits In the future I'd very much like to aquire a genuine military issued chronograph, that will be my significant investment watch i think. Hope you like! Matt
  9. 7 points
    I just thought I'd share this as it may be useful for another learner. By far the most difficult thing I've come across starting out in watch repair has been correcting bends in hairsprings. I've got the right tools, the right light, a powerful eye glass and a pile of scrap watches I've been practicing on. But I found time after time I was just making the hairsprings worse. I think part of my problem is that I'm slightly dyslexic and I find looking at the spiral really confusing sometimes. But I had a bit of break through last weekend which has dramatically improved my technique. Quite simply, I hold my eye glass up to my iPhone lens and take a close up picture of the hair spring. I then make a cup of tea and sit and look at the photo, zoom right the way in and really think about what I'm going to do. This is so much more effective than hunching over the hairspring and straining my eyes for long periods and losing patience. Once I've really thought about what I'm going to do, I go back to the hairspring with a clear strategy, ie, slight bend in, fourth from the centre at 3 o'clock. I apply the bend, take another picture and repeat. I know it sounds simple, but it's been a huge help to me and I'm finally having success
  10. 7 points
    As a complete novice I am somewhat nervous about offering tips to you experts. However I had occasion to remove the caseback from my GS Mk2 pocket watch. It is so well machined there is virtually no visible joint to put a blade in without scratching it plus I did not know if it was screw on or not. I was thinking I needed a suction device which I don't have. After a few vodkas I came up with the idea of using the suction windscreen mount off my Garmin sat nav. It worked a treat. I also used it on my stepdaughter's Rolex ''replica'' which is tiny and has the authentic style Rolex caseback. I'm sure you guys have tools for every occasion but this tip might just get a hobbyist like myself out of trouble.
  11. 7 points
    jdrichard

    Finished another balance staff

    Just finished making yet another balance staff. The big problem I had was that after I Jacot to pivots down to size, the balance itself was slightly warped causing the balance to rub against the palate fork plate. I managed to straighten it using caliber and fingers. Works well now. Fun day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. 6 points
    RyMoeller

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  13. 6 points
    Hello All, This is my first post so I thought I would show a little finishing technique I learnt a while back. It basically turns the ratchet or crown wheel into a matte/ frosted finish. It was popular back in the day with some high end companies and still looks good in my opinion. I'll run through how it's done and try answer your questions as best as possible. What you need: 1. glass plate 2. Micron paper in various grits. 20 and 12 will do. 3. Tetrabor 800 grit/ mesh 4. Ultrasonic or cleaning machine 5. rodico First thing first, you have to flatten your ratchet wheel. To do this I use some lapping paper on glass. I start on a 20 micron and rub the ratchet wheel with my finger in a figure 8 pattern or circular or however I feel. (we arent trying to achieve black polishing flatness) If you are worried you can set up a jig to hold the ratchet wheel. but I often find using your finger will suffice. Once happy, move onto a 12 or 9 micron and do the same. At this point it is imperative to clean the wheel so that you remove all the grit from the paper that may be stuck between the teeth. So chuck it in an ultrasonic or your cleaning machine. Next place some tetrabor onto your plate, no need to add oil or water. place wheel onto plate and start rubbing it in. Generally it doesn't take to long no longer than a min or so. Doesn't hurt to check the piece to see how the finish is developing. if you want to check you can dab it with rodico, very carefully to remove the tetrabor. Do NOT wipe with a tissue or anything, this finish scratches so easy its crazy!! you can always chuck it through the ultrasonic (carefully) to see how the pattern is going. Its the checking and chasing that one last scratch which takes up the most time. The slightest bit of dust or dirt on the glass plate will scratch the wheel. You can always blue the wheel after, it comes out with an interesting tone when blued with this finish. This technique is fairly hard and does take some time to get good at, because it's just so easy to scratch and because of this scratches stand out against the matte surface. I'll try answer questions as best as possible. I try and post interesting stuff on Instagram regularly at least 3 to 4 times a week. obr_horology is my account on insta. its just time consuming to post (slow at typing) I plan on doing a youtube video in the coming weeks to better explain it. I learnt this from Henrick Korpela. Check him out if you haven't heard of him. He also writes in the AWCI and gives away a lot of info. Thanks O
  14. 6 points
    toppercat

    Finished making my watch

    After I watched a couple of Mark Lovicks videos on making a watch with parts sourced on eBay I figured I'd give it a try. I made two. This is my favorite. It's a divers watch with an eta 2824-2 movement. I'm quite proud of it. I picked up an H link shark mesh bracelet. I'm calling it the deep blue desk diver. Lol
  15. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  16. 6 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm
  17. 6 points
    margolisd

    My First Omega Service

    I was really pleased with this service and it's the first time I've worked on an Omega. It was a 1030 movement from the 70s with a broken mainspring. It looked like it hadn't been serviced in decades. Terrible reading as you can see. It was really nice to work with compared to the scrap I'm usually trying to rescue! I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and regulated it and just look at the difference! And it's within 10 seconds in all positions. Just made me happy so thought I'd share :)
  18. 6 points
    Delgetti

    Assembling a Valjoux 7734 chronograph

    First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/ Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ). The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. The click spring. D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in. The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window). Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. Fly back lever goes in with some D5. Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel! At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. The hammer cam jumper. Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. The spring. 9501 for the contact point. Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again! The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in. Hour wheel with D5. The dial rest with its 3 screws. The date indicator. The date indicator driving wheel with some D5. The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long. The guard with 2 screws. Finally the spring. The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side. While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up. Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12. Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic. New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work. The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are. Thank you for watching.
  19. 6 points
    margolisd

    Tool porn!

    This beauty arrived today. My first jeweling tool. So excited
  20. 6 points
    VWatchie

    Vostok Generalskie

    Finally finished my Vostok Generalskie extensive overhaul: No other watch have I serviced, cleaned, polished, and lubricated as meticulously as this Vostok Generalskie; the movement, case, dial, hands, and crystal. Case and crown gaskets were of course replaced and silicone greased. I even cleaned and polished all train wheels by hand (a bit over the top, I know, but I just couldn’t help myself). I had many good reasons to be thorough though; This Generalskie was a spontaneous gift to me from someone who made a deep impression on me (I’ll always remember you T). I think it’s one of the most impressive looking Vostoks I’ve seen, and I just love that dolphin case back lid. And, it was my first serious attempt to (somewhat) understand and successfully service a 31 jewel automatic watch. The service spawned some pretty interesting discussions on WUS and watchrepairtalk.com. First, it was established by our "comrade" experts over at WUS in the “Q&A Expertise thread: Is this watch legit or a Franken?” that it is indeed legit. The first and major challenge for me was to understand how to service the automatic mainspring barrel. As I learned, this is not entirely trivial when it comes to automatic watches (thank you all!). Secondly, I was puzzled by the state of the reversing wheels and how to lubricate them. This too was eventually sorted out. For my personal use, I made a "reassembly plan" using pictures from the disassembly. It was only meant for me personally, but for anyone interested click here. I should mention that during the assembly I figured out that it would be most convenient to assemble the parts for the automatic winding as late as possible, so this does not show in my "reassembly plan". The quality of the movement and the entire watch is the best I’ve seen in any Vostok, Raketa, or Poljot so far. The movement contained some surprising details I haven’t seen before. The centre wheel held a very small (micro) brass cylinder right in the centre of the arbor to hold or guide the seconds hand pivot (see the picture below). Let me tell you, it was not easy to handle, not even with my finest tweezers. Most shims, like under the balance cock, were gilded, and so on. I believe this watch was meant for export and made to impress. It was sold in Stockholm, Sweden sometime in the early 90-ties. I wear it with pride!
  21. 6 points
    This is a more detailed version of my previous picture-only post for this watch. This Bulova 21-jewel automatic was given to me by a colleague for repair. It was running extremely fast – gaining about 15 minutes per hour. The movement is a Citizen/Miyota 82S0 skeleton. Looking through the clear back it was obvious that the balance amplitude was extremely low. First step was to simply demagnetize the watch to see if that did the trick as it sometimes does. No dice. I then removed the balance and pallets and put a small amount of wind onto the mainspring. The train spun up but as power wore off the escape wheel stopped, then started again several times. It was a very sloppy action. Nothing obvious in terms of loose or cracked jewels or excessive side or end shake that I could see. I decided to disassemble the movement and give it a full servicing. Here is how I disassembled the movement. Where I can I will list the Miyota part number for reference. You can find the parts list here: http://miyotamovement.com/parts_search.php?open=82S0 Figure 1 shows the face of the watch after removing from the case. Note the exposed balance at the 7 o’clock position. Figure 1 – Face Figure 2 shows the clear case back prior to removing the movement. Figure 2 – Case back The first step in disassembly is to remove the Oscillating weight (119-A17. Note that the weight is secured to a bearing that is pressed into the main plate. Unlike many Swiss movements, the screw securing the weight rotates with the weight itself. I used a peg wood stick to prevent the weight from rotating while unscrewing the fastener. Figure 3 shows the weight prior to removal. Figure 4 shows the oscillating weight after removal. Figure 3 – Preparing to remove the oscillating weight Figure 4 – Oscillating weight Figure 5 shows the movement after removing the oscillating weight. The plastic movement holder (500-710) is also visible. This will be removed after dealing with the hands and dial. I also removed the winding stem (figure 6) by pressing in on the setting lever and gently pulling the stem. The location for pressing on the setting lever was clipped from the pic, but it’s a standard setup. Figure 5 – Plastic movement holder Figure 6 – Winding stem After removing the stem, the movement was removed from the case. The stem was then reinstalled to facilitate power let-down, etc. With the oscillating weight removed, it’s a simple matter to lay the movement down dial-up on a piece of pith wood and remove the hands (Figure 7). The dial retaining screws on the side of the movement are loosened (not removed) and the dial is gently coaxed away from the movement by inserting a thin screwdriver blade. Figure 8 shows the dial after removal. Figure 7 – Hands Figure 8 – The Dial The movement holder shown in figure 5 is now lifted off. It is shown in figure 9 next to the movement. Figure 9 – Movement holder ring Figure 10 shows the dial side of the movement. Figure 10 – Dial side The movement is then flipped dial down and loaded into a movement holder for disassembly. The balance (039-102) is removed along with the balance bridge (710-191) as shown in figure 11. Figure 11 – Preparing to remove balance The balance complete is shown after removal in figure 12. Figure 12 – The balance complete Important: Before removing the pallets I need to remove all the power from the mainspring. I do this in the standard way – by applying a bit of winding pressure on the crown while pulling the click (060-390 in figure 11) out of the way with a bit of peg wood and allowing the stem to unwind in a slow/controlled manner. Figure 13 – About to remove pallets With the power let down I can now remove the pallet bridge (708-066) and pallets. Figure 13 shows the bridge prior to removal. The pallets and bridge are shown in figure 14. Figure 14 – Pallets and pallet bridge I probably should have removed the motion work prior to starting in on the balance – not sure why I didn’t. Regardless, we need to flip the movement back so I can remove the motion work from the dial side. The hour wheel is held in place by the hour wheel spring (176-109). Remove the 2 retaining screws and then lift off the spring. The spring is shown prior to removal in figure 15. Figure 15 – Hour wheel spring prior to removal Once the hour wheel spring is out of the way I can remove the dial washer (078-140), the hour wheel (075-124) and finally the cannon pinion (using your favorite cannon pinion removal tool). These parts are shown after removal in figure 16. Figure 16 – Hour wheel spring, hour wheel, dial washer and cannon pinion Figure 17 shows the movement after removal of the motion work. It’s now time to flip the movement back over and start in on the gear train. Figure 17 – After removing the motion work I remove the three screws securing the barrel and train wheel bridge (701-F52) and carefully remove it. Figure 18 shows the underside of the bridge. Note that the seconds pinion friction spring (903-690) was left in place. I didn’t see the point in removing it. You can also see the oscillating weight bearing that is press fit into the bridge. I didn’t mess with this either! Figure 18 – Barrel and train wheel bridge and seconds pinion friction spring Figure 19 shows the detail after removing the barrel and train wheel bridge. First, I remove the reduction gear (088-120) and reversing wheel (141-190). These components are part of the automatic winding mechanism. They are shown in figures 20 and 21 after removal. I make note that the reversing wheel should be installed with the brass side up. Figure 19 – After removing barrel and train wheel bridge Figure 20 – Reduction gear Figure 21 – Reversing wheel Next, remove the third wheel (017-760), fourth wheel (023-940) and escape wheel (032-106). These are shown in figure 22. Figure 22 – From left to right – escape wheel, fourth wheel and third wheel Next, I remove the ratchet wheel (059-560) and the barrel complete (001-870), which sits directly underneath the ratchet wheel. Th.ese components are shown in figures 23 and 24. Figure 23 – Ratchet wheel Figure 24 – Barrel complete Looking back at figure 19, you can see a spring, very similar to a dial washer. This part is called the ratchet sliding wheel spring (078-150). Simply lift it off (figure 25). Figure 25 – Ratchet sliding wheel spring With the spring out of the way I can now see the ratchet sliding wheel (087-250). I remove this part along with the crown wheel (058-360). Figure 26 shows these parts. Ah – finally a picture that shows the setting lever release button I mentioned earlier! Pressing here allows the stem to be removed. I will leave the stem in place for now. Will get to it shortly. Figures 27 and 28 show the parts just removed. Figure 26 – Crown wheel and ratchet sliding wheel Figure 27 – Crown wheel Figure 28 – Ratchet sliding wheel Figure 29 shows the click (060-390) and click spring (903-700), the center wheel cock (711-074), center wheel (012-116) and center seconds pinion (025-670). Technically I believe the center wheel cock should be named the center wheel bridge since it’s secured by more than one screw, but I’ll leave that open for debate. Tension on the center seconds pinion is provided by the friction spring we saw back in figure 18. Figure 29 – Click and spring, center wheel and cock, center seconds pinion Figure 30 depicts the click and click spring after removal. Figure 30 – Click and click spring Figure 31 shows the center wheel in place after the center wheel cock has been removed. Figure 31 – After removal of the center wheel cock Figure 32 depicts these parts after removal. Figure 32 – Center wheel cock, center wheel and center seconds pinion The train side of the movement is now fully stripped. This is shown nicely in figure 33. Time to flip it over and finish off the dial side. Figure 33 – Finished with the train side Figure 34 shows the current state of the dial side of the movement. To get started I remove the minute train cover (079-890). Figure 35 shows this component after removal. Figure 34 – Dial side Figure 35 – Minute train cover I can now remove the keyless work. The components are shown in figure 36. The minute wheel (072-520) and setting wheel (076-430) are removed first. These components are shown in figure 37 along with the minute train cover. Figure 36 – Keyless work components Figure 37 – Minute and setting wheel Referring back to figure 36, the next components to remove are the yoke (071-510) and setting lever spring (077-690). The stem can now be removed and then the clutch (064-450) is free to remove. The setting lever (067-860) was not removed as it’s press button is staked (spread). No sense disturbing this. Figure 38 shows the yoke and setting lever spring after removal. The clutch is shown in figure 39. Figure 38 – Yoke (left) and setting lever spring Figure 39 - Clutch Finally, the main plate is fully stripped. The dial side is shown in figure 40. Figure 40 – Main plate – dial side We can now deal with the barrel assembly (figure 41). Figure 41 – Mainspring barrel complete Using the steel anvil for support, gently press down on the gear teeth to pop the barrel cover off (figure 42). Figure 42 – Barrel cover removed Carefully remove the barrel arbor (figure 43). Figure 43 – Barrel arbor Unwind the mainspring from the barrel (figure 44). Figure 44 – Barrel with spring removed This completes the disassembly of the movement. My next step will be to clean it in the ultrasonic. Will post the reassembly as a new thread.
  22. 6 points
    clockboy

    Bulova 11BLAC parts

    The unwritten rule with watch repair is don't apply force to anything. I have not worked on this movement but I presume these wheels where on posts. The way to remove is by using the correct puller as below. Or a very straight pull.
  23. 5 points
    HSL

    ETA Resources

    Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.
  24. 5 points
    manodeoro

    CUSTOM DECAL DIAL TUTORIAL

    Hi guys … I had promised that I would make a « custom decal dial tutorial » on another thread there So here we are … There are many variations of decal dials, the best IMHO being the « negative gilt » dials which gives the best results. The process I’m showing today is aabout how to make a dial with black printings on a one color background. I had a cheap quartz diver waiting in my drawers so I’ll make a Heuer diver hommage based on the 980.016 model (quartz one too). DAY 01 : It’s 4:30 AM (I’m an early bird) and I have 2 hours to kill before a business trip to Paris (I’m French) so I decide I have time enough to begin. The first part of the process is to prepare the dial plate : - stripped it, removing all the lumes bars and dots - soaked the dial for some minutes in acetone to remove the paint - filled the tiny holes where the bars and dots go with cyanolite glue - sand everything flat I sand with 800 and don’t try to get a smooth surface as I want the paint to adhere perfectly to thedial plate. Here is the result … Then I want to spray paint. I make a tube with some painter’s tape, from a « curve » with it and place it on a plastic bottle cap. I want it curved so that I can stick the dial on it without any risk of bstructing the center hole or the date window of the dial plate. So I stick the sanded dial plate on the tape tube. As you can guess from the pic below … that’s not the first time a make an orange dial. Then I place the bottle cap and dial plate on a paper sheet and spray paint in orange. I use street art spray paint as it is « water resistant ». As you can see on the next pic, I don’t try to get a smooth surface, or even to perfectly cover the dial plate at first. I will let this coat dry, sand it with 2000 grade, then spray 1 or 2 coats until I get a perfectly smooth orange dial plate, ready for receiving a decal. So I place the bottle cap and dial under a shooter glass and will let it dry for about 24 hours before sanding and spraying the second paint coat. The 24 hours drying time is really important (though it could depend on the paint you use). The paint I use looks perfectly dry after about 5 hours but if you spray the second coat without waiting enough, that coat won’t perfectly adhere to the first and you could get a granular surface like an orange peel. And here is the dial waiting under the shooter glass. On the right is a « negative gilt » dial (third and last matte varnish coat) On the background there are two Raketa 2609 movements from the 70ies, quietly (really loudly to be honest) ticking for test after I‘ve recently serviced them. Now it’s 5:45 AM so I will have a and go to the train station. I’ll sand the dial plate this evening and spray the second paint coat tomorrow morning. Then sand it in the evening and spray the third coat (if needed) the day after. DAY 02 - DAY 03 : So here's what you get after the first paint coat … doesn't look really good but no matter as there's still some work to do to get a better result. And here's what you get after 3 coats of paint, each one sanded with 2000 grade, to get a perfect finish, flat and smooth. Now the dial plate is eady to receive the decal. DAY 03 : I won’t explain anything about Photoshop and Illustrator here … I’ll only explain how I print my decals. One thing really important, from my own experience, is the definition of the design. I’ve tried several, from 1200ppp to 6000pp and the best results I’ve got on printing decal sheets were with a 4000ppp definition. So all my dial designs are done in 4000ppp. The result is really BIG files … for example an A6 template with 12 dial desings ready to print is about 800Mo. As that dial is black printing only I open it with Photoshop and let the softwre (so ont the printer) deal with the printing quality. My printer is an old Epson Picturemate with a 1200 maximum definition. As the good quality decal sheets are not cheap and as I’m a « skinflint» I often print on A7 sheets … 6 dial designs on one sheet. When printed you should let it dry for about 4 hours then spray 2 really thin coats of matte varnish, letting each coat dry for at least 12 hours (24 hours is better). DAY 04 - DAY 05 : 2 days of speed-hiking with my wife so I didn’t worked on that tuto. You can check on the net what speed-hiking is, but to summarize it’s hiking as fast as you can with really light backpacks, trying not to run (or only short runs). On a good day you can walk 5 to 6 miles/hour … when trained you can walk up to 6,5 miles/hour … and while I trained for my first 62 miles ultra I achieved to walk (no running) up to 6,85 miles/hour (11 km/heure). DAY 06 : Today is Monday 6:00 AM. It’s been 5 days since I begun that tutorial and … my legs ache and all my body is painful (see Day 04 - Day 05) The dial plate is ready and the decal sheet too. You can see that the decal sheet looks matte now. That is because I have sprayed 2 coats of matte varnish on it, to protect the inkjet ink while I’ll soak the decal in water. Of course if you print with a laser you won’t have to spray varnish as the laser inks are (almost) water resistant. First thing to do is to chose the best item on the decal sheet and cut it round. Then you are ready to go. On the next pic you can see all you need now : - dial plate … fixed on a foam board using the dial feets - decal dial … nicely cut round - tweezers - thin and smooth brush (mine’s a watercolor brush) - some « micro set » … or just vhite wine vinegar (it helps the decal to set on the dial plate) - cold water Now you put the decal in cold water and while it soaks you brush some micro-set (or white vinegar) on the dial plate. Then you put the decal on the dial plate. Here you can see why I prefer using clear decal sheets on coloured dial plates … because it’s much easier to « perfectly » positionate the decal, using the central hole and the date-window. When you’re happy with the position of your decal you use a paper tissue to absorb the excess of water. Do that carefully as you don’t want to move the decal on the plate. And here we are … everything worked fine while absorbing the water and the decal position is OK. I’ll let it dry for about 12 hours before I cut the central hole and the date window, before I proceed to the varnish finish. Still Day 06 but 7:00 PM The decal has dried for about 13 hours so now I can proceed on cutting the decal sheet That's what I do then I : - fix it back on the foam board - apply some « micro set » around the center hole, the date-window and the outer diameter - gently press with a paper tissue so that the decal is perfectly applied (no more «air bubbles) And I let dry for 3 hours more Evening … 10:00 PM Now the decal is « perfectly » applied and dried and ready for the finish Last pic for today is after spraying the first coat of glossy varnish I will let it dry for 12 hours, sand it with 2000 grade paper and apply the 2nd coat. DAY 07 : 20:00 AM … only 1 pic today just after finely sanding with 2000 grade the 2nd varnish coat I applied yesterday DAY 08 : Yesterday evening I applied the 3rd and final varnish coat after finelt sanding and cleaning And today I can show you the final result … and say I'm pretty happy That dial is so glossy it’not easy to get a good pic, even on close-up. May I say that me hpone is nit the best at shooting pics (just like me) and the actual dial is much much better that it looks on the pictures below. I hope that you liked that tutorial and that it could be helpfull to members who want to try to build their own watch dials. I’ll try to make better pics with a real camera and a better lens … next week of the week after, after luming the dial together with the hands. Then I will still have to get a case and rework it so that it could be a 980,016 lookalike. Some of you may wonder how much time did I spend to make that dial. It took 8 days to achieve the all process but I spent only 1 hour the first day then only from 15mnm to 5mn the days after. So, apart from the design work on Illustrator and Photoshop (which took me hours), I would say that the whole process is about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that it's not my first try at dial making and I've trained for 2 years now. So if you want to try you should consider spending a few more hours but it's really worth the time spent as at the end you get your unique DIY dial.
  25. 5 points
    oldhippy

    Bestfit Catalogues

    I'm starting again. Anyone who would like a copy of the Bestfit Catalogues Vol 1 and 2 You will need this pasword to open each volume. tickandtock Links https://www58.zippyshare.com/v/BGNuxKTX/file.html https://www105.zippyshare.com/v/xrUeOPSy/file.html
  26. 5 points
    Like most of us, I look for perfection and oiling cap jewels with a regular oiler take a lot of practice and patience. I found myself having to reclean and re-oil over and over before I could approve my work. So, I decided to invest in an automatic oiler for this purpose and although very expensive I think it was worth every penny, and I was so happy about it that I decided to make a video about it. Please bear with me though as this was my very first attempt at video editing.
  27. 5 points
    jameswarner1011

    Watch of Today

    Cyma Watersport with a R420 bumper GF case. Guessing from the 50s or 60s?? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  28. 5 points
    jameswarner1011

    Watch of Today

    1905 Illinois grade 184 14k solid gold case Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  29. 5 points
    Dpastl

    Homemade Tools

    I'm really into machining and making my own tools (generally I spend more time doing that then the actual hobby itself...), so I thought I'd start a topic about DIY tools for watch repair. My first success has been making a watch winder on the 3D printer. Winders are one of the more expensive and difficult to find tools for me, so it really made sense to start here. Here's the watch winder, it consists of three parts (from left to right): the pluger, spring barrel, and winding arbor. The only non-printed part is to drill a small hole in the arbor and put a piece of steel through it to catch the mainspring. It's certainly more fiddly than I imagine a proper tool would be and will not last as long. But it gets the job done and you can make it any size you want! You can find the CAD files on thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540660
  30. 5 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  31. 5 points
    Hi All, Something to brighten up a gloomy day! Picked up this absolutely stunning old Tudor 9ct gold recently. According to the previous (original) owner it had barely been out of the box in his ownership since it was presented to him in the 1970s as a long service award (happily for future owners it wasn't engraved). Original strap (transferred off for now in favour of something more my taste), signed buckle, signed crown, and all of the original box and paperwork in absolutely mint condition. You can tell it's hardly been worn when you wind it and adjust the hands, it still feels really 'tight' (but not too much as to indicate an issue!). Can't imagine there's too many out there that has all this in such fine condition. Very pleased with this find!
  32. 5 points
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    Nice Omega JBerry , ... I too have seen the Turler logo on a few fine vintage watches . Kinda like Tiffany I imagine . While I will quickly admit that I am addicted to Hamilton watches new and old , I recently had the opportunity to service a vintage Gruen with a 480SS movement and was impressed with the interesting design it presented . Multiple winding barrels , levers , clicks , and srpings . Also very nice finishes to the movement parts . So I have been on a Gruen phase these days . They are nice ..... Here's one I recently acquired as a good deal because it was sold as a non-runner . The first pic is the sellers .
  33. 5 points
    G’day all, Here’s my little collection of watches. Some are complete, some are not Some years ago, with saved up birthday and Christmas money, i bought an 1877, key wind, American Watch Co. Full Hunter; Stirling silver English case (that’s a few years older than the workings), engraved balance cock and 9ct gold balance wheel. This is my everyday watch, when it’s not too hot to wear a waistcoat A Swiss Acurex, 17 jewels, bought for a few dollars from an Op Shop (Ozzie version of a Thrift Store). This has seen service for when the above mentioned temperatures arrive. Unreliable now, so probably needs a service. Not worth paying for one, so will wait until my knowledge and skills are high enough. A Smiths pocket watch, pin lever, some of the wheels are just stamped out. Bought it a couple of years ago figuring that it might be a, non precious, watch to learn on. Plastic lens was all scuffed. 40mins of sanding and polishing cream fixed that. Balance wheel was sloppy as all else, and my dad said that one of the balance pivots was probably a screw. The one up under the dial was, so I fine tuned it. Within a week it had come loose again, so I put a dot of Lock Tight on the thread, re-fine tuned it, and left the dial off in case of recurrence (the dial’s only held on with bent tabs). Sits on my desk in a wire stand as my desk clock. Recently my Wife and I found a little shop in a nearby town that has the remains of retired watchmaker’s stock, both working watches and parts ones. I’ve been raiding his $5 tub. So far I have two fusee works, both missing the balance wheel and pallets, and a couple of other bits on each. One is by John Anderton of Huddersfield (found him on a list and he had his shop there in the 1820’s), and the other one is R. Cunningham of Liverpool, with an older style of regulator. No dials. Hope to tinker, and make parts and dials for them over time, but even if I can’t get them going, just having watch works that were made 200 years ago, and at $5 each I love hand work and engraving. The next 4 watches and works, also from the $5 tub, started ticking when given a gentle rock. In fact the first one, the workings of a Lombard Vernon & Co. pocket watch, that were sitting in a zip lock bag, started ticking away when I turned the bag over. I haven’t been able to find anything so far on the ‘net about them, and the main brass chassis, with the regular ‘works in it, has a white metal 1/2 plate on top with a collection of damaged springs and cams on it. Wondering whether it was a chimer or something. Missing winding stem (and anyway it’s grotty so running it is probably a bad idea in it’s present state). Quite a few jewels. The Odd Ball watch of the lot: A wind up ‘digital’ pocket watch! I had not seen this sort of thing before (though have now looked them up on the ‘net and seen some Very expensive versions, mostly wrist watches. ‘Liga’ brand, Swiss made. Pin lever. Ticked when rocked in the shop, but wouldn’t wind (no resistance or click). Thought it might be a broken mainspring, but $5 what’s to lose In the car I popped off the back with a screwdriver to find the clickspring rattling around loose. Found where it was supposed to be, fitted it, and, hey presto, winds and runs under certain circumstances. Have largely cleaned it, including the grotty celluloid window, and hope to get it going properly soon. A nice watch to learn on as it doesn’t have as many wheels as a conventional hands watch. Love watching the hour wheel flick over (a pip at the ’30’ position on the Minute dial engages a star wheel under the Hour disk). Have, since the photo, put the front watch case on my lathe and finished it with a fine grit, leaving a nice, subtle, radial polish. Heuer stop watch. Will run for a few seconds at a time. Very clean inside. No winder or crystal. Missing movement restraining screws (what’s the official name for those?) Generic Swiss made watch. The hour hand was bent around the minute hand, and once dis-entangled the watch spontaneously ran for a 1/4 Hour. Hour hand didn’t survive No winder, but apart from that, a new crystal and making an hour hand, it may be a goer without much work. Marathon over. Hope you enjoyed it. Cheers Duncan
  34. 5 points
    gmoodyii

    My first balance staff!

    Finally got around to cutting my first successful balance staff. It is for a 201 caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 8-Day aircraft clock. In fact this is the same clock that got me interested in watch repair as a hobby. The first attempt resulted in a pivot being cut off while I was finishing it up, it was complete except for the finishing on the last pivot and it just disappeared. That was with wire rod. Second attempt was with blued wire rod, which I should have been using to begin with. Took my time and ended up with a usable staff. Installed on the balance assembly and it worked!!
  35. 5 points
    clockboy

    Historic watch repair tools

    See this vid of some really amazing historic watch tools enjoy:
  36. 5 points
    Marc

    Names of movement parts

    Try here; http://www.timezonewatchschool.com/WatchSchool/Glossary/glossary.shtml or for a downloadable .pdf version; http://people.timezone.com/mdisher/WatchSchool/pdfs/TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
  37. 5 points
    Chopin

    Names of movement parts

    I know what you mean, sometimes these things are pretty hard to find. It's probably a bit difficult to do this as each movement has it's own type and it's parts and you won't really find one movement to show all types of parts. Here's a couple of images that should help.
  38. 5 points
    Willy002

    My first "NEW" watch

    Thought I would post my first new watch... This was the first thing I bought when I came aboard the USS L.Y. Spear as a young Seaman back in 1974. I still wear it regularly, in rotation with my other watches...
  39. 5 points
    dadistic

    Good bye

    I personally think it would be much better if there was more restraint shown about moving posts. Moving a newbies post is one thing, but for a long time user to have a post moved is annoying. Not even the courtesy of finding out the users intention, just wham. post moved. It's annoying, and I have enough trouble finding time to participate, and having to deal with these little irritations makes me less likely to make the effort. That's why I don't do posts that take a lot of effort, like walkthroughs, because I know they they won't stay unmolested, regardless of my intentions. This is a solvable problem. Either leave the posts alone, or provide a way that these posts can be built without having to do them in one swell foop. Using too narrow of a definition is not helpful, either. If you want a category of "make-overs" then please provide a place for them. Just be aware that if you go down that road, you will find that you have to move *every* post, and not just the obvious mistakes. People will inevitably gravitate toward the most general category, and pay less and less attention to the sub-forums. More work for the admins. Maybe that's OK, but notice that this forum software wasn't built to be operated that way, and some features will break. It happens now. David
  40. 5 points
    anilv

    Seiko 7548. . rescue

    Hi guys.. I don't really like working on quartz watches but I do make an exception for the Seiko 7548. I came across this at a flea-market for MYR20 (USD5) so I figured I'd try to get it working. Its actually a 7546 but theres not much difference. The 7548 has five jewels and the 7546 has to make do with only four. The hands have the usual black stuff which is what remains of the original lume. First thing I checked is if the hands set, unfortunately it only does part of the way. Forwards the minute hand sticks at the 50 minute mark and backwards it gets stuck around the hour mark. Day date sets ok. Typically grotty caseback. This is a 7546-7130 It has a full length bracelet.. that's good! What's not so good is the amount of dirt. Those with a weak stomach should look away now. I finally open the caseback and look inside.... what I see is usually enough to throw it into the bin. The battery needs to be physically pried off as the corrosion has made it stick to the movement. Once removed I find this. The corrosion is pretty bad but I've seen worse. In this case the two contacts for the battery are still present and stand up to the prods from my tweezer. Sometimes they are corroded beyond use and break off. The dial resembles a starry night sky. You'd pay a lot of money if this was a high end swiss watch but this is bassically a reaction from the cases released when the battery acid oxidises. That sh\t wont buff out. The stuff under the dial is the same as on the 6309 automatic movement. Looks good so far. But the hour wheel was stuck to the cannon pinion and thats was what made setting the hands impossible. When this happens the keyless works usually suffer broken/worn teeth as people try to force the crown around. Those parts on this watch look ok. Here we have a picture of the underside of the date advance. The date advance is made of plastic so its in pretty ok condition but the mainplate has a lot of corrosion. Next off is the circuit block. More corrosion (the black stuff).. it can be scraped off with pegwood. And the coil is carefully lifted out and put away safely. Here we can see the effect of the battery juices on the watch mainplate. train bridge is heavily discoloured and most likely the pivots as well but its in the battery cavity that the corrosion is heaviest. The (+) contact (held by screw) shows sign of corrosion. If this breaks off the movement is not worth repairing. but luckily it comes off in one piece. I finally remove the train bridge and lift it off. I made a mistake here as the stem is out and the movement is 'hacked' with the hacking part contacting the wheel. Mot really a problem but more important to remember this for the assembly. The wheels are stuck in the pivots so thats not good. Need to inspect them carefully to see if they are reusable. Reference pic to show how the various wheels go together. Bare mainplate ready for cleaning So is the watch worth fixing? Frankly no. The dial is beyond salvage, the damage to the wheel pivots may affect the performance of the watch (surprisingly the pivots look good at high magnification) but the most important issue is the coil and circuit board. They are no longer available from Seiko and this particular watch is never going to be worth the money to source one from other sources. Having said that.. I will check the coil and circuit board and if they are in working condition then I will re-install it and use the watch for a while. Even if I do get the watch to work, I foresee that the eventual fate of the movement will be as a donor for a 7548 diver watch as this seems to be the only quartz watch still in demand. Will post updates.
  41. 4 points
    HSL

    ETA 251.262 Walkthrough

    Even though the garden is screaming for attention one has some spare time to continue my magical journey through the heap of quartz movements. This time it is the ETA 251.262 Chronograph which can be found in watches like Breitling Colt Steel, Certina DS FIRST, Longines Hydro Conquest and so on.. I'm quite surprised of the amount of quartz movements which are getting a new life after a good clean and service. As usual all the files are in a PDF format, and all pictures are original. ETA_251_262_Dissasemble.pdf ETA_251_262_Assemble.pdf
  42. 4 points
    bjd1020

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  43. 4 points
    Latvas

    Elma Elite restored

    Today i finally finished my restoring project, an Elma from the past, brougt back to life Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  44. 4 points
    JerseyMo

    Timex Monroe

    I have been working on some of my older pieces and today chose this 1953 Monroe. 3 step ultra sonic cleaning, lube, grease, polish and even a new old stock crystal. Running like a champ. Also show with an advert from the era and an original copy of the letter Timex sent out to service shops. This letter accompanied the 1961 service manual and registered the shop for future service publications.
  45. 4 points
    oldhippy

    Bestfit Catalogues

    Here are two new links. I bought both so they are mine. https://www.mediafire.com/file/mz809lm3bms8zk3/bestfit_part1.pdf/file https://www.mediafire.com/file/eqbhdor949r0ilp/bestfit_part2.pdf/file You will need this pasword to open each volume. tickandtock Sorry I didn't know zippy was now full of crap. If you have adblocker you might need to disable it for mediafire. These are safe I have tested them.
  46. 4 points
    2lostsouls

    SEIKO Presage

    This is the watch I am wearing today. My son bought it for my birthday just the other day. Really like it. I changed out the watch band.
  47. 4 points
    Well I finally completed this project yesterday. There were a few challenges even after solving the bezel issue which took a bit of time to put to bed. First, I discovered the pipe on the running seconds hand was both too short and too wide (the extended pinion on the fourth wheel has a diameter of 0.18mm and the pipe on the hand was around 0.25mm). I had thought the fourth wheel was incorrect but that turned out to not be the case. Now I have two extra fourth wheels (I'm not a quick learner apparently) but I'm sure they'll come in handy down the road! To fix the pipe I used a bit of brass tubing I grabbed off eBay which had an ID of 0.18mm and OD of 0.50mm. A broach was run through the pipe on the hand to widen the inside diameter then the tubing I purchased was tapered and cut on the lathe to fit inside. Originally I was going to remove the pipe from the hand but settled on pushing a sleeve inside when I realized the tubing I had was too narrow to rivet to the hand. Next I needed to address the watch crown which was damaged and lost its rubber o-ring. The o-ring is secured place by a riveted cap but on my crown the cap was missing. Naturally, I first searched for a replacement crown but when one was not readily available I opted to fix the one in hand. A replacement o-ring was ordered and a new cap turned on the lathe. With the o-ring set in the crown, the cap was secured via a hammer and stake. It seems odd that these old Navitimers have rubber gaskets on the crown, pushers, and caseback but there's nothing to stop water from entering under the bezel. Lastly I noted the new chronograph pushers I ordered were too short. I turned a pair of boots on the lathe to increase the length of each pusher rod. Neither boot is fitted too tightly so removal should not be an issue down the road. Then it was time to assemble... It was certainly worth all the time and effort but I must say, I'm looking forward to some really straightforward services in the future.
  48. 4 points
    clockboy

    Pierce 134 Running Fast

    Ok the HS is the most likely culprit it is either too strong our not long enough. If I remember correctly the test for a HS strength is as follows. Put the balance bridge on a tack the HS should then suspend the balance by no more than 1/2 inch. If it is less than this it is too strong if it hangs lower than 1/2 inch it is too weak.
  49. 4 points
    measuretwice

    Trolls, Spammers & One-timers.....

    I like that. Rudeness abounds today, it is astounding people don't even thank you for the free help, but its the internet, and its full of wheat and chaff. If you start worrying about the chaff, the chaff doesn't care, it only brings you down. There is a model wooden boat forum who've developed an open source set of drawings for a really great project. They're very worried that the drawings fall into the wrong hands, i.e someone who might us a power Hegner scroll saw for example. Its a bit comical - all this hand wringing, imagine fretting (pun intended) about such a thing? You'd think the objective would be the drawings are a net to be cast far and wide to bring more people to the hobby. Point being you won't get any wheat if you so worried about not getting any chaff. Oh, and when you do get some help - give the person a like! everyone needs a little positive feedback now again, especially when spending their time helping someone
  50. 4 points
    Endeavor

    The "Screw-peg" ®

    Hello All; Surely "invented" before, but I've never seen it..... therefor I call it the "Screw-peg" ® Struggling to get a 70-years old NOS ladies movement to run properly, I had some serious pegging of very small jewels to do, including the very small balance pivot jewels. (if curious, read https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/9705-servicing-laco-503-501/) My experiences with these tiny holes are that if you get the tip of peg-wood in the jewel-bore, it brakes off easily. Next to that, once you got the peg-wood in, while rotating, your fingers slide & rotate down. Once the fingers are to the end of the peg-wood, and some more pegging is required, you either have to pull the wood and try it again or; try, with the peg-wood still in the bore, to get your fingers back on top of the peg-wood ........ with a very high probability that the peg-wood tip brakes off; left behind stuck in the jewel Something had to be thought of ........ ; I had a box full of toothpicks which were 1.6mm in diameter. One of my screwdrivers took 1.6mm steel tips. I removed the steel tip, cut one end of the toothpick off and inserted the toothpick in the screwdriver-handle. It's a nice press fit. The toothpick-tip can be sharpened multiple times by either a knife or dressing it on a diamond stone. Now, with the peg-wood tip in the jewel, you can rotate as long as you deem required. I also found to have very high control over steadiness, angle, rotation and applied pressure. It works for me like a treat ! Of course the ® isn't
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