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About Jon

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  1. This is how your spring should look. Your looks a bit bent out of shape, but as long as it pushes up in the correct place on the underside of the sweep second pinion, all will be good. As has already been said, the brake spring (which is made from beryllium copper) pushes from underneath the pinion and needs a small dot of grease on the spring where it makes contact with the underneath of the pinion leaves. It tends to be obvious which way it pushes the sweep second pinion, either from the top of bottom, when you see the spring in place without the sweep second pinion. The spri
  2. True... The endshake of a Waltham pocket watch will be very different to a ladies watch of about 6.5 lignes, not just because of size, but also, as you said, manufacturing tolerances, but some figure is helpful for the usual 10.5 to 13.5 ligne wristwatches from the last 50 years or so. The figure I gave was for modern 'industry' standard, which are mainly Swiss and not an 'industrial' standard. I understand that facts and figures tend to be subjective, that's why I end sentences with 'I believe' because it isn't making it an absolute fact, because it is my belief.
  3. Industry standard of end-shake is between 0.02 mm to 0.06 mm, so I believe
  4. It depends how much metal is taken off. The more taken off, the more side-shake you will have. 5 degrees of play from vertical is optimal side-shake. Much more than 5 degrees and you will need to think about another jewel with a hole to suit the new sized pivot.
  5. Have you used this before? MainspringCalculator.xlsx
  6. I've had these issues with questionable mainspring sizes for barrel sizes. Point is, never take what Cousins says as the truth when it come s to mainspring sizes. I check out different sources and invariably go with what Ranfft has in his database. I too think GR mainsprings have some issues. I had one completely bend its hook rendering it completely useless, as it just slipped like an auto and gave about 5 hours power reserve. One month of use shouldn't do that!
  7. Maybe have a go at re-bushing it with some brass. It's not as hard as you think, as long as you have a jewelling tool and bushing brass and broaches, you're good to go
  8. Here's a shot of one I recently worked on with my students. Not a bad trace on the timegrapher. I think the trick is to really get the pegwood and some autosol in the pinion leaves to polish. Same with the pivots. Some of these movements are really tarnished and need the extra attention, but it also depends on how much abuse the watch has taken. You can't polish a turd! It's a great watch to learn about indirectly driven centre seconds, that doesn't use a brake spring because of the double third wheel arrangement.
  9. I agree, The arbor passing through the centre pipe is in my mind a fourth wheel, as it is clearly driven by a third wheel and drives the escape wheel, which has to make it a 'fourth wheel', but ETA have decided in it's infinite 'Swiss wisdom' (and I use that term in the loosest sense) to call it something completely different, which makes no sense to call it a second wheel, which it certainly isn't. Rant over....
  10. I'm still struggling to understand what the actual problem is with your centre pipe and arbor that passes through it that holds the second hand?
  11. Here's a pic of the 2824 mainplate. You can clearly see the fixed centre post and how far it is into the plate. Is this centre post the problem? Has it moved. The 4th wheel goes through this fixed centre pipe, which you showed in the picture. The next pic is the train in place
  12. It doesn't look like a centre wheel (second wheel). It looks like the fourth wheel, which passes through the centre wheel. Your second hand fits to this. The arbor look way to narrow to be a centre wheel
  13. Great write-up! The wavy lines you have on the end movement is not uncommon on these watches. It's more than likely a fluctuation of power output in how the wheel teeth and pinions mesh and as there are so many of them in the train (as you have the two intermediate wheels with their own bridge driving the double third wheel). A little too much end or side-shake, or a slightly bent arbor and you get the wave, or even a badly tarnished pinion leaf or three, that causes a slight bind. A lot of these come with a thin berrillium bronze/brass shim under the balance cock which someone may have l
  14. Nice.... I hope you get it going! Great to see the Geneva stop work is still in place, as some watchmaker's used to remove it to gain a little more power reserve, but it does have it's cost...
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