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About Jon

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  1. I bought a Seitz jewelling tool with all the pushers, stumps and reamers for about £100 from German eBay. I would love to have the bigger set, but I get by well with the smaller set. It would be nice to have the pivot straightener and gauge, but have never needed them, so far. I find watchmaker's tools are much cheaper from eBay.de (German eBay) and a bigger choice
  2. Spot on! It only needs to be out a fraction and that's where those few seconds are gained or lost. Personally, 5 seconds between vertical and horizontal is good for me. Because it is really 2.5 seconds difference. So let's say you gain 2.5 seconds on vertical and lose 2.5 seconds on the horizontal reading, that's a total of 5 seconds difference. Or am I missing something @CaptCalvin? 2.5 seconds difference statically on a timegrapher, may be something less on the wrist. I concur about timing 7750's, which I have found amazing to regulate and adjust. The one I'm wearing gains 30 seconds a month... Perfect!
  3. Try checking the amount of play the hairspring has between the curb pin and boot in dial up and down, then check if it's the same in crown up and down. I suspect not. It might be the hairspring is ever so slightly out of true, therefore the hairspring has no movement off the curb pin in that position, or too much. I couldn't tell from your reading if it was gaining or losing in vertical position
  4. @Pauly It's great breathing life back into something that look and feels dead, so well done on getting her running again! You might find changing the mainspring will reap rewards with the amplitude, but also, for the sake of a tenner, you'll save a lot of bother trying to track down faults which was the mainspring all along! 240 amplitude is not such a good start point, as faults might start showing themselves, when it was the mainspring all the time. Nice to see you got her going again!
  5. @jdm Nice walk through. Unfortunate about your pallet pin snapping somewhere in the process! Wow...I didn't think they were that delicate. Saying that, I don't put jewelled pallets through a cleaning machine, just as a precaution, so I'll now also be hand cleaning pin pallets. You were sure right about liking to grease the mainspring to the max whenever it was last done. No wonder it was pooling on the top of the barrel as well. Looking forward to the next instalment, once you've got the replacement pallet
  6. Oh right... that makes sense then. At least you've got a good idea it will work when you replace the barrel arbor and the mainspring, if that's what you intend to do. If you're going to keep it, I would definitely change the spring, for a new one with better amplitude, but that's just what I do for the sake of a tenner. It's a great looking watch! I love the classic 70's look to it.
  7. Jeez... can't believe that's the same watch! You've done a sterling job on it already. Seiko are pretty indestructible by the looks of this one. They stopped making these in 1976, so it's got some age to it as well as the water ingress/rust issue. So you still need another barrel arbor, or am I missing something? How would it run without an arbor? Or are you giving it a wiggle to see the balance spin?
  8. It's amazing what can be done with something that appears to be a lost cause. Surprising how that barrel arbor got so eaten away. I suppose because it was steel and not an alloy or brass
  9. That's right... They're not hand windable
  10. I was forced to make an operating cam, which was a 3 hour job with a piece of 0.4 mm brass. It had to get honed down to 0.2 mm to fit in the slot. Total dimensions were 1.2 x 1.2 x 0.2 mm, with a 0.7 mm square hole passing through it to accommodate the winding stem. The last picture is with the operating cam in place. Damn fiddly work, but very gratifying seeing it work. Lord knows how much Cartier would have charged me!
  11. I dip the oiler into a 20 ml bottle of epilame. It has no problem getting on the jewel in time, as it does evapourate quickly, but not that quick. Or I put .5 ml in a small aluminium pot and dip the jewels in. There's always s drop left to pour back, which shows me how quick it really does evaporate
  12. Great video again JD! If you use oil with the rubbing motion of the jewel, your diamond slip will last a lot longer
  13. I read that dipping the whole fork will cover the pivots and horn with epilame also and have seen pictures of epilame dust after some months after service on those areas, considerably affecting amplitude. I either dip the end of the pallet jewels in a small pot of epilame, one at a time for about a minute or paint it on the end of the jewel with an oiler. Careful not to get it on the pivots. I stand the fork up in some rodico whilst painting it on. This keeps any epilame off other parts of the fork.
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