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About Jon

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  1. Nice one... I can never have too many links to good info. Much appreciated Graziano!
  2. You still need to rinse the lighter fluid off though
  3. I'm with you guys on this.... It's a big leap to deduce that the circuit board is defective without first testing the original!
  4. There should be no reason why the winding stem can't be fitted, regardless of the broken setting lever spring. The way to let down the spring you are suggesting, for someone new to watchmaking seems like a recipe for disaster
  5. I don't know if anyone has noticed, but Isopropyl alcohol is like trying to find unicorn poo at this present time, as it goes to make hand sanitiser. The price has gone from £5 to £6 a litre to about £50 to £100! This virus has brought out the worst in some people who want to make a fast buck. Be wary of anyone who is selling it too cheap, as this is probably not IPA and you'll only get a bottle of water, then find the ebay account has closed...
  6. Hi, You'll need to replace the winding stem to be able to let down the power on the mainspring. The part that is broken is the setting lever spring, which is part of that cover plate over the keyless work. This are the part that will often break and it probably wasn't you who did it. It makes the setting lever have a distinctive 'click' when the winding stem is pulled out into hand setting mode, but won't stop you from putting the winding stem back and have it all the way in to be in 'winding mode'. It also allows the setting lever have two precise positions to be in 'hand setting' or 'mainspring winding' modes. I don't know if you know how to let down the mainspring, as you haven't said, but I assume that you do. Let the mainspring down before disassembling the keyless, otherwise you won't be able to, once the keyless work is apart.
  7. Sometimes it is easier to make sure the hairspring is sitting between the boot and curb pin before fixing the stud in place. It's just practice... as you said 'cat and mouse' If the hairspring is not concentric or part of it is out of shape, the hairspring when sitting between the boot and curb pin will push against one of them when the stud is fixed in place, thus not allowing a small movement of the hairspring to 'bounce' between boot and pin whilst the balance is spinning. This in turn technically shortens the hairspring because of the lack of free movement and the watch will run fast because of the shorter hairspring.
  8. Welcome, If I might suggest, that you don't go pulling apart your vintage, rather expensive watches you named in that list, until you buy some £10 - £20 watches and played around with those to get a feel for what you are doing. We are all here to help and before long you will have the confidence and a little more experience to tackle those watches you mentioned
  9. It's about 10 or 10.5 mm for the Seiko spring isn't it?
  10. You could 'walk it in' by hand wearing finger cots or nitrile gloves to keep your finger grease off it, although I would only do that as a last resort, as the spring can easily be misshapen or kinked doing it like that. If you've got a mainspring winder set on its way, I'd wait for that. I did fit a pair of Waltham 8 day car clock mainsprings by hand recently, only because they were too big to fit my biggest winder, which was 18 mm I think and the springs were about 20 mm in diameter. They went in a treat, which surprised me
  11. I've just uploaded the first instalment of the BFG 866 in the 'Walk through' section and I've got a few more to post when I've got time within the next few days.
  12. Hi, I teach watchmaking to complete beginners at Epping Forest Horology Centre, close to Epping and this is one of the lessons on the BFG 866. I wanted to show my class a classic pin pallet (Roskopf) movement and how to service it, as many watchmakers won't touch these watches as they hold no monetary value. Turn the setting lever screw 1 to 1 and a half turns to release the winding stem A piece of watch paper or small plastic jiffy bag to protect the dial, whilst removing the hands The driving pinion is part of the friction fitted minute wheel on top of the barrel. This work in a similar way to a friction fitted canon pinion to set the watch hands Remove the keyless work: setting lever, held in place by the setting lever screw, screwed from the other side of the mainplate, then the yoke, which sits on top of the clutch (castle) and also the winding pinion. I have three other lessons on this movement that cover bringing the watch 'into beat' as well as taking apart the friction fitted minute wheel from the barrel, lubricating and staking back on to achieve the correct friction setting and finally how to remove the centre seconds wheel safely and refit using a staking set. Many people leave the friction fitted minute wheel on top of the barrel, not realising the amount of old grease that can't be cleaned out from it, as well as not removing the wheel of the centre seconds arbor and again not cleaning out the pipe which has old grease inside. Hope you enjoyed the tutorial? More to come....
  13. I should post on the walk through section what I've written on the BFG, which are about four lessons I think
  14. Sorry, just changed it for something a little more about fitting it... Thanks though
  15. I've attached a lesson I wrote on the BFG 866, which includes refitting the hairspring. Just make sure to turn the boot 90 degrees with a screwdriver of appropriate size to enable the hairspring to sit between the boot and curb pin. Fit the stud, then close the boot. If your hairspring needs refitting to the stud, you'll need a small brass pin shown in the photo. I prefer to fit the HS when it is clear of the balnace Lesson 15. The Baumgartner 866 continued.ppt
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