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About Jon

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  1. I recently bought a K&D Inverto after upgrading from my first staking set... Wow, what a beautiful bit of tooling and really versatile as you say!
  2. It's a similar principle I use to distribute the levering pressure when removing something friction fitted, such as a friction fitted minute wheel on the top of a barrel on a Baumgartner 866
  3. It's hard for me to say, as I don't know the condition of the watch, mainspring, pivots, holes, etc. There's a lot of variables, I suggest looking at how the pallet pins lock with the escape wheel teeth. How did you grease this? On the pins or on the escape wheel 'root' of the tooth? Is it locking evenly on both pins and deep enough, as the 'draw' is vitally important on these and they 'lock' much deeper. Check your hairspring is dead flat to the balance and it isn't magnetised and how does the hairspring 'breathe' between the curb pin and boot on the underside of the balance cock? Did you cle
  4. Thanks Joe. As you said, they are obsolete and many won't work on them because of there low value, but I think it is always good to get good at as many movements as possible. I've got many spares for this movement, but thanks for the offer. Much appreciated. If I need anything, I'll PM you. I don't know where to source hairsprings and balances for this, other than scrap movements, which I've been doing
  5. I've just posted a PowerPoint presentation of removing and re-fitting the friction fitted minute wheel. Hope it helps. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask, as I expand on the lesson in the class room, so end up explaining more than is in the pictures and captions
  6. Lesson 17. Baumgartner 866 Barrel friction fitted wheel.ppt
  7. This is how your spring should look. Your looks a bit bent out of shape, but as long as it pushes up in the correct place on the underside of the sweep second pinion, all will be good. As has already been said, the brake spring (which is made from beryllium copper) pushes from underneath the pinion and needs a small dot of grease on the spring where it makes contact with the underneath of the pinion leaves. It tends to be obvious which way it pushes the sweep second pinion, either from the top of bottom, when you see the spring in place without the sweep second pinion. The spri
  8. True... The endshake of a Waltham pocket watch will be very different to a ladies watch of about 6.5 lignes, not just because of size, but also, as you said, manufacturing tolerances, but some figure is helpful for the usual 10.5 to 13.5 ligne wristwatches from the last 50 years or so. The figure I gave was for modern 'industry' standard, which are mainly Swiss and not an 'industrial' standard. I understand that facts and figures tend to be subjective, that's why I end sentences with 'I believe' because it isn't making it an absolute fact, because it is my belief.
  9. Industry standard of end-shake is between 0.02 mm to 0.06 mm, so I believe
  10. It depends how much metal is taken off. The more taken off, the more side-shake you will have. 5 degrees of play from vertical is optimal side-shake. Much more than 5 degrees and you will need to think about another jewel with a hole to suit the new sized pivot.
  11. I've had these issues with questionable mainspring sizes for barrel sizes. Point is, never take what Cousins says as the truth when it come s to mainspring sizes. I check out different sources and invariably go with what Ranfft has in his database. I too think GR mainsprings have some issues. I had one completely bend its hook rendering it completely useless, as it just slipped like an auto and gave about 5 hours power reserve. One month of use shouldn't do that!
  12. Maybe have a go at re-bushing it with some brass. It's not as hard as you think, as long as you have a jewelling tool and bushing brass and broaches, you're good to go
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