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About Jon

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    Watch Enthusiast

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  1. Hi JJ, Like you, I don't spend a fortune on watches, but have accrued over seventy in a short space of time, ranging from £20 to £400. I think I've got the bug!
  2. That's brilliant! I bought a pad printer a while back, which unfortunately haven't done anything with yet. Could you tell me specifically, what inks are you using and where did you get them from? Which pad out of the three you have posted work the best for the acrylic blank you have been using? Where did you get the acid etched metal plate made up and how much did that cost? Did you design the dial yourself, because it looks really good? What software did you use, if you did? I know that's a lot of questions, but this has given me a kick start to be enthused about doing this myself, rather than my pad printer collecting dust Thanks so much for your post as well Liam!
  3. No, the impulse jewel on the roller table should definitely be part of what you bought
  4. That's the perfect way to do it JD! You could even turn down a large clock bush to suit and then open up the hole to fit over the newly shaped post. A bit of loctite and the jobs a good un
  5. Solder isn't going to 'weld' to the damaged brass under the plating and will come loose once you started to shape it. I would spend a small amount of money on a replacement bridge, or donor movement.
  6. Hi Bjorn, I would suggest getting used to taking a watch apart and putting it back together, before worrying about cleaning and oiling it, just to get used to using tweezers and screwdrivers. A good watch to start with would be a Molnija 3602 or a Seagull ST 36, because they are big and easy to work on, but also relatively cheap! (£30 to £40) The Seagull is a copy of the ETA 6947. I teach watchmaking and this is what I get my students to work on first. They don't go near a cleaning machine or oiler until they know how to disassemble/assemble a watch and know how it works. If you already have some old watches to work on, that's great. I've attached a schematic of the ETA 6497, to get an idea of what the parts are and eventually where to oil and what oil to use. If you ask 10 watchmakers which oil they use, you'll get 14 different answers, as it is very subjective! Cousinsuk.com are a great source of downloadable movement schematics for watches, just put the movement number in the search box and hey presto: https://www.cousinsuk.com/document I started cleaning with lighter fluid as a cleaner and isopropyl alcohol as a rinse and using these cheap pots from cousins to clean them in: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/aluminium-pots-in-cardboard-box or use some ramekin dishes, if you have any spare ETA 6497-2.pdf
  7. There may be excessive side shake of one or more of the wheels/pivots, as the pivots are sitting in un-jewelled holes and for a watch this age, these holes might need to be re bushed, because they sometimes wear an oval, which forces the wheels into the pinions too much or vice versa. It might also be a worn balance staff pivot. Does the watch run when dial up and dial down? If it is turned crown up or down, is that when it stops?
  8. Nicely done JD! Proper 'watchmaking' in action
  9. Hi Nick, You'll enjoy watches if you can mend carbs!
  10. yankeedog is right... the screw you undid to remove the stem, only unscrews so much to release the winding stem. You tend to start with one turn and see if the stem comes out and no more than 1 1/3rd to 1 1/2 turns, because any more will detach from the 'set lever' or as some call it the 'bolt piece' that you are now missing. It would have been still there when you removed the dial, if you removed the dial after turning that screw. If you had the dial off first then the set lever would have fallen onto the table you are working on.
  11. This is a fiddly job if you have never done this before, so it might be an idea to practice on a scrap movement. The cap jewel is a non shockproof type and will need to be unscrewed from underneath the balance cock. You can see the end of those screws in the picture you posted. First you will need to take off the balance cock from the movement and carefully turn it upside down, making sure the balance staff pivot is sitting safely in the jewel hole, Then turn the 'boot' which I have marked with a red arrow 90 degrees, so the hairspring can be released from between the boot and the curb pin. Do this with a very fine screwdriver, as there is an indentation in the boot to do this. The friction fit stud that the end of the hairspring is pinned to with a tiny brass tapered pin. I have marked this with a red circle. This stud is held in place by friction, by the looks of your picture, rather than a small screw coming out from that arm and will release with downward pressure on the top of the stud in the picture. The arm that the stud fits into will need to be supported in some way to do this, usually using a staking set to do this if it is a really tight fit. I use an adapted tool that pushes the stud and holds the underside of the arm at the same time. Once the stud is free and the boot moved 90 degrees the hairspring and balance wheel are free. You can then undo both the screws on the underside of the balance cock to remove the cap jewel to be able to clean and oil it
  12. I started with lighter fluid as a cleaner and isopropyl alcohol as a rinse. You can put the watch parts into mini glass jars and use these fluids to clean more effectively when the jars are immersed into water in an ultrasonic machine. Make sure you don't get water into the jars, or put in pallet forks. Clean those by hand, as the ultrasonic effect might loosen the jewels. It is a good idea to start cleaning by hand, as you really get to know intimately what clean parts look like, especially when you peg out all the jewels with sharpened pegwood beforehand. Even if you use an ultrasonic, peg out the holes first
  13. I find using an EtaChron removal tool the safest way to remove the stud, as it doesn't have any downward pressure, and removes the risk of slipping with whatever you are trying to pry the stud out with, also it takes away the risk of bending/snapping the stud carrier. All the pressure is sideways using the EtaChron tool. I made my own, which in essence looks like a 3 to 4 mm screwdriver head with a slot in it. As already mentioned, replacing the stud is a lot harder. Do this by having the balance fixed into the main plate for stability, with no other parts fitted
  14. Nice one, thanks for the plans.... Strangely enough I was just looking for mine before reading this and found it. Maybe your lost one is with Bagpuss?
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