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  1. Seiko uses a "magic lever" for the rotor to apply wind to the mainspring regardless of direction. From what I can see in Mark's latest video (see time 7:58 and 21:40) it uses two gears similar to an ETA self-winding mechanism. FWIW, Mark doesn't put the rotor back on until much later in the video. (28:30)
  2. Measure the visible opening inside the case ... what you see from the front. Then measure the inside diameter of the case where the movement or movement ring would sit. The dial should be between those two measurements. It will probably be about a 1.5mm tolerance.
  3. That works out to a little more than $9 per watch. Nice!! (And I'm jealous)
  4. Looks like your workhorse has broken its leg. You're either going to have to take it to the veterinarian or shoot it. Seriously, it could be any or all of the suggestions already given, or it's going to be something less obvious. There are two things I can say for certain. One, you won't know until it's opened up, and two, it's not going to fix itself.
  5. Do you have the stem in the winding position or setting position? Some movements need to be in one or the other to get access to the release mechanism. It looks like the crown is pulled out (setting position) which for some movements (Seiko NH34, for example) will hide the release. Try pushing in the crown and you might see a little dimple on the end of the setting lever. Look for it a little above the stem.
  6. "Castle wheel" is probably another term for the sliding pinion since it looks like a little castle turret. If the case alignment with a screw-down crown isn't perfect between the stem and the movement, the stem can act like a spring when the crown is tightened and exert a force on the movement in an up or down direction. If that makes any part of the movement touch a part it's not supposed to (fouling), it can have a tremendous effect on the performance, including amplitude. You may never be able to find out exactly what's touching what because as soon as you release the stem, the pressure goes away. You might be able to put it all together and let it run for a month or so and then take the movement apart and look for wear marks on the pieces, but I wouldn't recommend that. It's better just to use a spacer to make sure the the case, dial, movment and stem are all in alignment.
  7. I'm as green as they come and need a scrap movement for practice. I scored this on an eBay auction for $0.99 (+ $4.99 shipping, LOL) First inspection shows it not in terrible condition. The balance and escapement move at least, but it doesn't wind (very stiff) and the keyless works are either rusted fast or broken (the stem does not move in or out). I'll be taking this very slowly, since it's educational more than anything else. Please note the high quality cardboard case ring.
  8. Akin to U.S. flea markets where buyers hope to find naive sellers and sellers hope for naive buyers.
  9. The numbers displayed are averages (I think) so those gaps are actual readings of an intermittent beat error. If they happen at regular intervals, you might look at the escape wheel for dirt or a hair.
  10. Hi Joe. I'm a Philly boy, born and raised ... so, my condolences. This forum is great for getting right to the issue, so you've come to the right place. I would recommend, that if you keep working at the dining room table, you either get a low chair or an raised surface to work on, or your neck and back will start to hurt. And, buy the Mrs. flowers.
  11. Perhaps I'm depressing the the release too much and deflecting the yoke in the process. I know that during my first attempt to replace the stem, I got frustrated and applied too much force and broke the yoke. Fortunately they are easy to find and not too expensive. I bought two, just in case.
  12. This one has me stymied. Every time I remove the stem from an ETA 2824, Sellita SW220 or Seagull ST2130 (or even a $20 clone off eBay), when I re-insert it the sliding pinion jumps off the yoke. I know you are supposed to pull out the stem to the setting position when removing it and I am very careful upon re-insertion, but I just don't seem to have the magic touch. I have tried both with and without depressing the release button, but to no avail. Is there a trick to it?
  13. Hello all, I've been watching Mark's videos and it's inspired me to add watch repair to my skill set. I look forward to learning and sharing experiences and laughing over my foibles as I develop some rudimentary skills. Charlie.
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