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arron

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  1. I thought i'd share this for any others having a similar problem. I didn't know but there is a metal sleeve inside the stem tube. That regulates the working of the stem as you pull it out to set the time or push it in to wind. There is a five part series on YT that discusses the workings and fine tuning of this mechanism. I've inserted just the first part of the series. There is a special tool (a sleeve removal tool) that is used to fine tune or remove the sleeve. I do not know if adjusting or replacing the sleeve will resolve my issue as I am waiting for the tool which i purchased to arri
  2. Good evening, Before i hit the purchase button i wanted to run this by those with more experience with watch repair than me. My only concern about this purchase is whether the "working distance" of 4 inches is sufficient to do what needs to be done to a watch under the scope. I did read several pages of the string of posts where Lee gave his review of the scope that sits on a boom and has much greater working distance (perhaps as great as 20 cm, i think). I like the zoom function on this one, the mag power range, and the fact that i could take pictures down the road if i wanted. is the
  3. Thanks for the photo. i'm glad to see that i put it back together correctly. Now, i wonder, why it's not working properly?
  4. Good morning, I've started a new project to fix the keyless works on this PW. It's got me a bit perplexed. In the resting mode (not pushing or pulling the crown) if you turn the crown the hands may at times move and at other times will not move. if you push in and keep pressure on the crown and turn, it winds the watch--there is only slight give when you push and no significant clicking sound. pulling on the crown doesn't seem to do anything. has someone before me put the parts in wrong? does anyone have a diagram of what the keyless works is supposed to look like. or mayb
  5. IMG_9719.MOV I'm a bit reluctant to share this, because it will probably jinx me again, but i cleaned off that grease i applied to the fork and escape wheel and by golly, it's running again. so it seems like it was operator error ? Thanks for everyone's input on this. Boy, when it works it's fun, but when it doesn't .... I just need to find a bow and clean up the case/crystal and bit. I hope everyone has a great weekend.
  6. i agree JohnR725. is there a different make/model vintage watch that is better suited to a novice? i think before i put it aside, i am going to degrease the fork and escapement wheel and see if that has any effect. i did notice this time that when i touched the fork, when fully wound, it didn't spring to the other side like it did the one time i had it running; maybe that's the problem of having too heave a grease. JDM, pray tell, what is the "canonical "watch doesn't run" tests".
  7. watch repair doth humble a proud man? after taking the movement apart a couple of times, inspecting and cleaning the pivots and pegging the jewels, i put it back together (with the paper shim) and viola it took off running. i was shocked, quite frankly. i turned it to all sides and it kept running. i called my 11 year old to come take a look; i needed a witness and someone to gloat to. so i thought, i better oil 'er up now and she'll run even better (i oiled most of it with a synthetic clock oil and i put some DC Mkote DX paste grease on the escapement wheel. probably not the right ki
  8. Just a quick update: getting that hairspring between the regulator pins was a real bugger. Using a screwdriver i was able to lift the spring into place. I am going to reassemble now and cross my fingers (the mark of a true amateur) that it will at least tik tok for me.
  9. Boy, that's one time i'm glad i asked before i ruined the hairspring. Thank you.
  10. This is all very helpful information and i'm investigating each issue raised. I think i am going to temporarily shim it and see if it will run, and if it does it should give me some much needed encouragement. Can someone confirm my belief that the hairspring needs to be adjusted/bent outward so that the outer wind that ends with the stone (that connects to the cock--hopefully i've got my terminology correct) actually travels outside the diameter of the rest of the coils and doesn't cut across as shown in the pictures. the second picture is from before i took the watch apart. the dono
  11. Thank you JohnR725 for the diagrams and tables. I measured my staff at 5.7 mm (with a cheap digital caliper); a smidge less than what the diagram indicates. Not sure if that would make a difference. To my untrained eye the pivots look ok. Klassiker, it was difficult to hold the jewel and poke the staff through it. so i held the jewel with rodico, poked the staff through it and then looked at the rodico which had a pivot mark in it. so it did go through, although i'm not sure how far and whether it's far enough to avoid the pivot cone from rubbing on the hole jewel In terms of
  12. Hello, just a quick update on my progress cleaning the mainspring winders. I don't have any chemicals so i just dipped the heads into vinegar for 15 minutes and used a very small brush to clean the loose stuff off on the front and behind the disc. I then dipped the heads in lighter fluid because i thought that would get rid of the water from the vinegar. i then dried it with a hair dryer and finally lightly coated it with some clock oil i have. it actually works nicely now. I did one and now have 5 to go. thanks for the ideas. Arron.
  13. Thanks for the shimming suggestion. i put a piece of paper between the cock and the main plate and pressed down firmly on the cock and the wheel did freely spin. so that experiment leads me to three questions. 1) could the shim be a permanent solution. i do have some very fine sheets of brass that i could put in and leave--might be a bit nicer than plain copy paper. ha. 2) does this experiment help to diagnose the problem? is the balance staff too long? are one of the pivot jewels sitting too low. are both cocks bent (as someone above suggested). 3) would anyone be trying to source n
  14. Hi Guys, I have a new to me watch craft mainspring winder set. There is rust and green oxidation on the disks (and probably underneath) in the barrels. It's so bad that the push buttons will not depress to eject the disk/spring. Any ideas on how to clean these up without making it worse? I do have an ultrasonic. I do not have commercial watch cleaning wash. should i take them apart; is there a way to do that? or do i leave them intact and soak them in something? Thank you.
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