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22
Who's doing what in the world of watches today.
I made a brass object sort of approximating the shape of a balance staff on my lathe (obvs learning), cleaned and reassembled a Timex M24 from a late 60's watch the seller said "needs new battery" and installed a NOS Elgin mainspring that showed up in the mail into an 1890s 6 size that had been waiting on the bench. To find it runs ++++ on the timegrapher, at a wicked 100° amplitude. -
129
Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up
Ah ok ok his beef is against static poising with bench tools, not with dynamic poising to correct the running watch. -
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What Got You Into Watches?
Have always loved fixing things, cars mostly but also as a joiner...- take stuff apart, put it back together better - . And then my grandfather's watch that nobody wanted to fix in my town. And I love puzzles . My kids say if dad cant fix it nobody can, this ere proves it ! -
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Mystery 8 mm ww Watchmakers Lathe W
Yeah I thought so too. It seems to be original since the paint is the same. My theory is, that it is either some sort of an attachment point for an indexing assembly or for a collet closer like this one.- 1
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Mystery 8 mm ww Watchmakers Lathe W
Hi, yeah I have done a lot of researching there -
20
Your nicest antique tools or materials?
That was the intial reason I used mine the one time, timegrapher wouldn't pick up a signal, but it turned out to be something else. For fairly rare events like this, you're probably better off using Nicklesilver's method, or use an accurate pocket watch to match the oscillations up to. I think the tool is best suited to folk that time balances regularly, as would have been the case years ago. Maybe for small companies that let out their hairspring timing services, that didn't have the movement to work with. At the end of the day you already have the perfect timing device....the actual movement. The tool's convenience merely saves you the time and effort of unpinning and repinning the hairspring to the stud a few times to get it right. Providing a " Prior Idiot " hasn't fitted incorrect train wheels -
129
Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up
If you restaff the balance correctly, there should be no need to repoise the wheel, unless it was messed with by a previous watchmaker. Here is an experiment to try that will explain my findings. Remove the balance from a correctly running watch that is marked "adjusted to 5 or 6 positions" or however many they claim. Place it on your poising tool, and you will find that it is out of poise. But, being out of poise, it has been adjusted for positional adjustments, to average the 5 or 10 seconds a day. It seems like you would want the wheel to be perfectly weighted all around, but it might run better a little heavier CU at the 4:30 position on the wheel. HERE is a good article that can explain it better than me. I also see a large amount of bad repairs, back when it was a cutthroat occupation. So if someone did re-poise a balance before you, you might have to do it again to correct it for positional accuracy. But at that point, its a sunken cost fallacy, as it will take a long time to make adjustments to 6 positional accuracy, so you might be better off finding an unmolested replacement. -
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Need help figuring out click spring
This is a little clearer with the directions added. The spring must pull the click back not push. So the opposite way to which the click is being pulled into the teeth. As though its being opened out. Haha you've got it ! I didnt see the picture . Needs to come further around cw. Closer to the long leg. -
13
Need help figuring out click spring
Wow , thank you so much for your time ! very kind of you. Here is whaty I end up doing and it seems to work , it needed something to hold on to spring back. out of 10 turns msybe once i have to go back like if i am unwinding 1-2mm but i will make a better one. So now if the hands are works which they should, disassemble and full clean and oiling- 1
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Need help figuring out click spring
This is how it should be You can always see the direction that the click pulls to by the space provided for it to enter when winding. The spring probably hooks over the rhs of the click. It should have only one turn up for the click the other end will configure inside the milling under the ratchet wheel. -
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Need help figuring out click spring
HAHA omg i think i figured something out, so the left side of the click has to be straight down into the ratchet wheel and other side up. I never thought of letting the left side of the spring once it goes around the click to come straight down to the ratchet teeth... i mean for now its working, the click is not super well bent but will try another one Thank you for your input. 36mm mainplate and dial 35.80 so probabaly 36mm if im not 100 % straight . -
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Need help figuring out click spring
the photograph the keyless is fine but it would be helpful to have a measurement of the diameter of the main plate or basically on the dial side. Because otherwise we will have to go through quite a few images of the key list try to find this as we don't know the actual size of the watch -
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Mystery 8 mm ww Watchmakers Lathe W
yes I would say this is definitely unusual I don't think I've ever seen this either. But their are quite a few people manufacturing lathes for watchmakers and instrumentation and toolroom use that all can look similar. In addition to stuff that was made for factories. With often times will find pictures of factory tools with no identifications no marking and no idea what exactly they were designed for then this part of the lathe looks quite interesting any idea why it's been designed this way?
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