Discussing issues regarding the watch case including Opening, Closing, Movement Removal, Stem Removal, Pushers, Pendant Tubes etc...
You can also discuss subjects relating to watch straps and bracelets here.
Discussing subjects relating to servicing, making adjustments and repairs to watch parts and movements and fitting balance staffs. This section is not for timing or regulation discussion. To discuss Regulation or Timing please go here.
Making your own tools? This section covers traditional toolmaking and restoration, manufacturing bespoke tools to solve watchmaking issues and using modern technologies such as 3D printing to create new tools.
Help and support using this website. If you are having a general problem with the site then please post here. If you are having a personal problem with the site that you do not wish to be public then please contact a moderator or open a support request.
I have never yet attempted to fix a hairspring. I grabbed a parts watch with an AS 1240 out of a job lot thinking I'd maybe get it running for a relative. But I found this bird's nest of a hairspring with at least two hard crimps (almost like "folds"). It looks much much worse than any hairspring straightening demonstration I've seen so I'm curious whether this is fixable as an advanced case and worth the experience of trying, or if it is too far gone. Is it possible to unbend these hard angles? Considering I have broken mainsprings with less severe crimps, I am assuming this can't be fixed but thought I would ask.
I guess the manufacturing world has succeeded in messing with our minds. in our dental industry, things like liquid mercury and gold alloy have expiration dates. C'mon .... Really?
Mercury is an element and gold is stable. So how do they expire? Previously a batch number or lot number was sufficient. Manufacturers became greedy and started putting expiration dates on everything. Making consumers feel guilty or unsafe using expired products, resulting in perfectly good stuff getting thrown away.
I think some common sense is needed. Although they say honey found in an Egyptian pyramid is still good, I wouldn't want to try 3000 year old honey. But I would certainly use expired lubricants. (Ahem... not the personal type, of course. )
I don't know...
...however I would venture to guess that lubricating with "expired" oil would be effective but might not "last" as long as you might hope.
My question is: Are you charging for your services or is your watch repair limited to learning the trade on your own dime?
It would seem that if you are charging customers for watch servicing you ought to be able to replace your dated oil whereas if you are only worried about your own watches you ought to be able to determine that the "old" oil you've used is going to want to be cleaned and re-lubed on a more aggressive schedule.
I would never criticize anyone for working within his or her means. If you are getting any results or encouragement using what you have or can afford at this time, more power to you.
From each according to his ability, to each according to his needs. Karl Marx
I do hope Santa comes through for you.
Good luck and keep plugging away.
PS: that's a handsome looking watch.
I don't have any experience with the expiration dates on oils. My question is how long after the expiration date is the lubricant still effective or do I need to rush out and replace it right away? I have three oils that have expiration dates of: D - 5 = 10 / 2022, 941 & 9010 = 11 / 2022.
From the Mobius web site I see that:
D - 5 is a "mixture of mineral and refined vegetable oils"
941 & 9010 are synthetic.
Thanks in advance for any help that can be given.
yes I agree this is not a long term solution and I have written a letter to santa telling him to bring me expensive greases and oils for christmas...(my how ones desires change with age) and this was more of an exercise in getting an old cheapo banger stripping it, and putting it back together using my 150 euro microscope...(yes I am investing in tools for this) which has been a great help to my eyesight as squinting down a loupe is just not for me.
I would rather got the THX 1138 route and remotely manipulate things whilst looking into its rather largeish screen. Rather than looking directly at them via a loup, it works for me, as I have high visual and spatial awareness so grabbing things with tweezers sight unseen but on screen has been pretty easy for me.
But it's crap for filming as the microscope is so low you can't get your hand in under it with a screwy so your having to drag it out of vision all the time to nail somehting down. but I do not intend to start youtubing either on my van fixes or my watch repair as no one wants to hear a Yorkshireman chuntering throwing tools about and swearing all the time about stuff...
But It would probably go viral as the kids would have field day mashing it up probably.
but I do not want to be a tv star,
I leave that to those good at that...
But I see you have been following and replying to my posts and I thank you for your interest...But of course i am going to buy the oils mark recommended as if you want to seriously service a watch you need both them and an ultrasonic cleaning machine...
But as it stands I have spent more on tools and equipment than on watches...but I will be ready for the gem of a seamaster or rolex when i find it in a thrift store...
But my scores so far are
7009A achieved, although the intermediate date wheel was totally banjaxxed in both the movement I bought and the donor movement (i am now the man to see for 7009a parts) and i am begging anyone and everyone for their contribution of one of those. Although I have to tell the truth and I did destroy the first original balance in the 7009A with my hamfistedness but all in the learning curve. but the problem there is that the hour wheel spins loose probably because the intermediate date wheel is not there to hold it...but the second hand ticks along like a champion and the magic lever is working as it should so when I get the wheel it should be wearable...
The Unitas 176 Achieved
in the Cauny 17 rubis Antimagnetic which now works and keeps pretty good time with just 3 in 1 and car grease, but like you so rightly said probably not for very long...
But I worked it out that if I greased the CV joints with braking grease and the rest of the grease points on my Renault master van, then the whole vehicle would be worth more than a Ferrarri...
You got that right!
I don't remember what Alex suggests in his lubrication video but I seem to recall it wasn't going out and purchasing $200 worth of Moebius oils for your first foray into watch repair.
Rather than "car grease" you might look at picking up some Molykote and Singer sewing machine oil might be better than 3-in-1 for doing jewels.
While your "freshly lubricated" scrap movements may seem just fine after treating them with 3-in-1 and car grease, the 3-in-1 will likely dry out and get gummy after a while.
One of the guys here was in the process of assembling "starter kits" with small quantities of good watch oils but I don't know where he is on that project.
You might consider using another translator - your headline makes no sense in the context of watchmaking.
You are showing a CITIZEN dial. I assume both front and back? If so, the back side has no location pins, so I'm assuming you locate the dial based on the day/date window?
I'm not familiar with how CITIZEN attaches their dials - other brands attach the dial by means of really small screws through the side of the movement however those screws typically press against a protruding dial stud (see 2 studs on rear of dial below).
But I bought a couple of cheap scrap movements just to get used to working in the micro environment.
I have an andonstar microscope
some cheapo fleabay screwdrivers
and some brass tweezers...
and an air blower.
So my point is, I couldnt afford the oils as they are dearer than unicorn shit, and so used 3 in 1 and car grease for the heavier uses, and to my amazement the Cauny Anti magnetic I used this crap on actually runs and keeps really good time,
I didnt mess wiht the barrel or the spring as I have no spring winders...
So I know this is sacreligious and I do not recomend dousing your rolex in 3 in 1 but I was amazed at how a running watch like this, but running extemely poorly could be brought around so much by a dismantling, dunking in degreasant parts cleaner for engine parts and then just oiled and greased with whatever was to hand...
Something similar to this
I have a Lord Elgin mystery dial wrist watch that I would love to know more about. I've looked up the serial number and it says it was made in 1945. But it was incorrect on some things like it said it was 17 jewel and it's actually a 23 jeweled. I've seen only one other with a black dial since my searches. It also has some hand engraved writing inside on the backing. Could you please help me when you have a chance too ? I don't want to inconvenience you by all means. Thank You !!