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JohnR725 last won the day on September 12

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About JohnR725

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  1. A little clarification you Cleaned the watch did you disassemble the watch when you cleaned it? Then the mainspring are you using a new mainspring or the old mainspring? Then when the watch is fully wound up do you mean fully wound up as tight as you can get it or just wound up until it stops? What was the watch doing before you took it apart and cleaned it? Timing machine diagnostic is very useful but sometimes it's kind of like reading a crystal ball it's not always an exact science if we don't have the proper background knowledge of what's going on with the watch. For instance when it's wound up tight the machine Numerically says it's in beat but the dots don't look like they're in beat? Then visually when you were assembling the watch did you check to make sure the watch actually is in beat? When the balance wheel and pallet fork were out did you check for Back spin? Also helpful for diagnostics is more than one position on the timing machine. The typically dial-up and dial down and at least one crown/pendant position. As this is a wristwatch crown down would be fine.
  2. JohnR725

    Help identify this watch

    It would've been nice to have a little more to go by. So based on the previous reply my watchmaker 125 and 135 are probably too big although they claim to be 28 mm. I'm giving you the link so you can look I'm just going to Through Movado watches with Sub seconds. So some are bigger than 28 mm so I'm not putting them in the list that I course Some are smaller which brings up the problem of the second and won't be in the right place. Then I don't know if you can take the images on the website if you know the diameter figure out all the rest Of the dimensions from that as to how well that's going to work or not. So for the limited list I have it looks like watchmaker got it right because the 75 is about the right size and there is a image of the dial side. It's the last link I have. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_150MN http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_135 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_125 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_473 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_75
  3. The purpose of More than one slot on a screw head is to warn the watchmaker that this is a left-handed thread. So you just have to remember to do the opposites of which you do with a normal screw and everything will be fine.
  4. Did you purchase the watch new? Timex has user manuals on their website. Usually on the chronographs one button starts and stops and the other button returns the hands to zero. So if you push the top right-hand button do the chronograph hands stop moving? Otherwise if it's not working on somebody's recently change the battery it might still be in some setting mode so you'll have to go through the setting procedure to get everything reset.
  5. JohnR725

    Shimming the Balance Cock

    Then a note regarding shimming. The Russians because of poor manufacturing skills put an entire piece of metal under the entire bridge that's not needed here. All you need is a thin strip of paper on one side or the other of where the screw is. So you want to raise the bridge up put it on the inside. Then if you put on the outside will reduce the end shake. A nondestructive fix if you don't have access to the proper tools to reduce the pivot length.
  6. Not exactly a service manual but it does show where the parts go. Citizen 8110-1.pdf
  7. I'm a bit confused by your picture? I see the stud holder but where's the regulator? Then the tech sheet can be a bit confusing? So it looks like you need the upper frame assembly, The hole jewel, the cap jewel and the spring. Fortunately it looks like the base caliber for this watch is 6106 a so that's quite common so finding the entire jewel assembly shouldn't really be that hard. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Seiko_6139A
  8. JohnR725

    Shimming the Balance Cock

    So the before servicing poor amplitude did you attempt to diagnose why it was poor or did you just assume that cleaning would fix the problem? Then unfortunately with American pocket watches they've had quieted number of years worth people of service them and all sorts of bizarre and strange things can happen. Really common things are the banking pins usually get moved around. Then parts replacement parts they usually have to be fit if somebody did prior to you Replace the staff depending upon whether it was original or aftermarket the pivots very likely too long. This is where the easy fix is a piece of tissue paper under the balance wheel to get enough end shake. Otherwise shortening the pivot ends would be a solution that is once you determine that the end shake is a problem and there's not some other problem.
  9. JohnR725

    Cleaning Dirty Watch Faces

    There was a discussion recently here on radium do a search and see if you can find it. The problem with radium is it burns out the phosphorus relatively fast it is still radioactive for a very long time and depending upon how much you have it's not good for you. Then military dials and hands tended to be much much more radioactive than the civilian stuff.
  10. JohnR725

    Cleaning Dirty Watch Faces

    Would these dials by some chance have markers that glow-in-the-dark like with radium perhaps?
  11. The problem is all the tools are purchased brand-new and they're just expensive. I was told if you quit the first year you have to give back the staking set because Rolex is subsidizing the tool price to keep it down. The staking set is over $1400. Then the WOSTEP school in Miami I'm looking at their website interesting its tuition free no mention of having to work for them to pay for your schooling? I was told that some of the other tuition free schools require you to work for them to pay for you tuition. Interesting the Miami school apparently used to be a two-year program now it's listed as a one year program but it's still free and the tools have gone up a little approximately $3000. The state of Washington was always an interesting place for horology? We once had three schools teaching professional watch repair. Now we are down to just North Seattle community college and it used to have a night class for hobbyists to come in to learn watch and clock repair. The night class was in business for a very long time until the school started changing first wostep which didn't have a problem with the night class. But when Rolex came in the night class was banished to another building. Then the college decided out of sight out of mind and terminated the program. This was actually a really good thing that they did because the night class didn't want to die instructors still wanted to teach and now we have Norwest School of Horology A independent school for hobbyists. I have a link below. http://www.norwestschoolofhorology.com
  12. is the $2500 the total price for the toolkit or just the first year price? Then the second year I assume there be another toolkit perhaps? The reason I ask is locally we have a Rolex sponsored school and their toolkit is $6000 with Rolex paying part of that to keep the price at $6000 because it really should be more.
  13. JohnR725

    T ended mainspring

    to insert a T end mainspring you need a mainspring winder. If it's in the ring it has to come out it can only be done with a winder. You wind the mainspring into the winder leaving little bit out. Then wording is going to suck for how to do this. Insert the end of the mainspring in the barrel first followed by the winder itself. Then you should end up with something like in the picture the winder and the mainspring in the barrel. Then you rotate the winder until the T is over the hole or slot. then press it into the opening verify on the other side that it is in the opening. Then before pushing the spring out you need to hold the T end down. You can either use the end of your tweezers or I usually use the largest screwdriver I have. If you hold the T part down into its opening now you can push the whole mainspring out it will stay where it is supposed to be.
  14. JohnR725

    Pierce 134 Running Fast

    the short answer is there are no more blank hairsprings? Somewhere I have a BHI article this was several years back where they discovered that the blank hairsprings that were once available for purchase are gone. The Swiss like to re-consolidate from time to time basically to improve manufacturing and reducing cost. this affects hairspring manufacturing because now rather than making a whole bunch of separate Springs of various sizes and dimensions for the manufacturers they now manufacture exact hairsprings for the exact watch. This means the watch manufacturer either vibrates the Springs themselves or they just send the balance wheels to the hairspring company. The unfortunate consequence is we no longer have generic hairsprings to vibrate.
  15. JohnR725

    Pierce 134 Running Fast

    Hairspring characteristics are interesting and unfortunately very complicated. Simplistically hairsprings have two characteristics. The strength is required to unlock the escapement. The mainspring supplies the energy to rotate the balance wheel but the hairspring pulls the balance wheel back and unlocks the escapement. Then there is the frequency aspect usually the hairspring is vibrated to the specific balance wheel it's on. So swapping hairsprings is in general a bad idea and usually doesn't work. A exception to the rule of the hairspring must be vibrated to the balance wheel is or was American pocket watches. these were the hairspring is with over coils which have to be in very exacting locations. So it's easier to make these hairsprings separate for the balance wheels to get their exacting characteristics. Then there placed on the balance wheel and you use to build the by timing screw assortments. Then the swapping hairsprings isn't entirely an issue but getting those replacement hairsprings and the timing screws that's definitely a challenge today. then if you want to understand hairsprings, precision timing and stuff like that the book I listed below is a must have. Along with two videos that make hairspring vibrating look insanely easy when it really is not. The second video showing the final product of how closely the vibrated spring matches the master balance wheel did not occur instantaneously it would take a lot of time to get there. Watch Adjustment by Hans Jendritzki ISBN-10: 2883800294 ISBN-13: 9782883800298 Format Hardcover Author Hans Jendritzki Publisher Antoine Simonin, 2006 Pages 107 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hLorcrSRNs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5LEN66vxgc