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JohnR725

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About JohnR725

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  1. I think we need to go back to the beginning and look at the exact procedure of everything involved with this mainspring plus any additional lubrication you're putting in the mainspring barrel? Something is not right when the laws of the universe seem to be going backwards for us My experience with the other breaking greases were more was worse. This is what makes the Kluber Different it's really really sticky and more is more sticky. Except for this watch where it's not? But that I also question sanding the inside of the barrel your changing the characteristics. Email auto watches the inside of the barrel has cuts to reduce the contact area to make it easier for the mainspring to slip this is why this is such a weird example here lots of surface area should have lots of stickiness and we don't
  2. There is something definitely really wrong here. I know from experience when I listen to bad advice for a Seiko and applied the Kluber P125 Around the entire rim. When I was manually winding it up with the screw of the ratchet wheel and I reached the end I almost thought I was going to break the screw head off. Yes it slipped but it was so dramatically not slip paying which is why thought I'd going to break the head off. The you seem to be getting the exact opposite of what should be occurring there is definitely something not right here at all. The dimensions of the new spring versus the old are they the same for the Springs look the same?
  3. Have you completed the servicing and you're having a problem or was the problem there before the servicing? How do curiosity I don't suppose you took pictures of the watch when you're disassembling it?
  4. I found a couple of videos of interest Mark repaired one in one video so how complicated could it be? The second video is interesting in that it's giving you a quest to slowly acquire spare parts for the future just in case. The third link the Amazon book is a good book on chronographs just a lot a general information. Then the eBay link a must have if you're in to chronographs. In particular Volume 21 57 pages of how to service a particular chronograph. https://youtu.be/pFOQm9sAzE8 https://youtu.be/AVISmI8r-5Q https://www.amazon.com/Chronograph-Its-Mechanism-Repair/dp/B0058NJFVE https://www.ebay.com/itm/Esembl-O-Graf-Chronograph-Watch-Course-Vol-1-28/402295131097?hash=item5daaa88bd9:g:TuwAAOxy3NBSdB80
  5. This is why we have things like the etachron system where it makes it much easier to get the hairspring where it's supposed to be. Then because you can open and close the regulator pins once you get the watch regulated you can close them down so is basically touching the hairspring on both sides and get much better timekeeping. Or usually on high precision watches chronometer grade watches they tossed the entire regulator and go with a free sprung balance as it does make a lot easier to have linear timekeeping.
  6. In watch repair there are several methods of determining what the problem is. You can ask like he did in this group but this assumes that were all familiar with your exact watch. Personally I consider every single watch unique which means are all going to have unique problems. But maybe it's a common problem for the watch in which case the manufacture possibly with tell us providing you have access to current information? Then the next would be a better description and pictures because the only real way to troubleshoot a watch is to physically look at the particular watch preferably the components. I don't suppose you've serviced the watch yourself? Omega's an interesting company for technical documentation for instance I'm attaching the parts lists. The 1012 parts list has a few parts but refers you back to the 1010 for the base caliber. Then Omega has a common technical sheets with instructions but they assume that you're familiar with the watch and there are no pretty pictures. Then Omega got paranoid in their later years and all the technical documentation is watermarked every single corner has the name of whoever downloaded it. That means anyone that has one of those with never posted on discussion group because conceivably Omega would get pissed off and terminate their account. But if you've just service the watch I can probably snip some things out because I do see some cautionary problematics stuff if you service the watch were definitely some things you need to watch out for that are not necessarily common to standard watch. Then if for just diagnosing a watch because we like diagnosing sealed watches we don't have any pictures we didn't get a proper description I'm really go for rust. This is what happens when a watch hasn't been serviced in a long time lubrication can break down moisture can go past the crown it can rust the rust would be a good option in the absence of a better description. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_1012 Omega_Omega 1010-1.pdf Omega_Omega 1012-1.pdf Omega_Omega 1010,1011,1012,1020,1021,1022.pdf
  7. Try putting way way more Kluber P125 On the barrel wall like perhaps all the way around the wall.
  8. It's one of the ancient classic problems IBM versus Apple. IBM open source Apple closed. May not apply to your MacBook but typically in the past PCs were more open for technical documentation versus Apple. Which unfortunately is not a helpful answer for you at all. Then went back to we need to technical specifications for the microphone for your MacBook. PC computers are expecting capacitive microphones in a variety of circuits. Is a lot of variation of what actually it's expecting. Searching the Internet I found a few things zero idea whether it's a going be any help at all. There is a reference to USB though I wonder if you could use a USB audio input? https://www.musiconerd.com/single-post/How-to-use-an-external-mic-on-a-Macbook-Pro-2019 This one is different but it's also interesting is a reference to meeting the headphone to get the microphone to work? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k1MfRs8DlI
  9. It's not In a book it's in a 1957 guide to lubricating watches by Omega.
  10. I'm guessing the answer is no. Out of curiosity if you can get it to go into the MacBook is there an application for it?
  11. The reason why The repair is so expensive is several reasons. If you take the watch to a jewelry store and they send it out for repair they mark up the repair cost considerably. Ideally you want to find the repair shop yourself you'll get a better price. But no matter what this watch is going to be expensive to get repaired. If the shop really was a Rolex shop they nearly double the cost of anything that's a vintage watch. Then if it's complicated like a chronograph it will go up again. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-nov-29 Then Nucejoe was kind of kidding about a decade of experience. For instance depending upon where you're located their schools teaching professional watchmakers two years there would put you in a much better position the service a chronograph. But Mark does have chronograph videos I have a link below for one of them not the same caliber as yours unfortunately but don't give you a clue is only six parts should bill a breeze through that no time. Okay here's the problem it's a chronograph with some stuff on the dial side it's a little more complicated. There is a service manual for it but it's really big file size so I'm not going to attach it. In order service this yourself you're going to need to learn how to master servicing a watch without breaking it probably service several of them without breaking them. Then I would find one of these movements on eBay to practice on before working on something that you prize. Because no matter what in watch repair things happen and breaking something that you value is actually a really good lesson in watch repair to teach you why you shouldn't be repairing it in the first place. It just depends on how much pain and suffering you like. So it's not impossible that you can repair it yourself it just isn't something that we would advise you to do at least not right now until you get lots of experience. Then as you didn't say where you're located it makes it hard to make recommendations of where you might look for repair shop. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Valjoux_72 https://youtu.be/EI3T-IR3AgM Valjoux_Valjoux 72.pdf
  12. I'm attaching a couple of images that show how to do it and how not to do it. Do not rely on the pivot that goes into the hole to get the oil to Flow. Ideally want something that's really in much smaller than the hole itself..
  13. Whatever is used for regulation is supposed to be really really close to the hairspring. There shouldn't be a lot of play then you ideally should be in the center.
  14. You probably should time the watch in six positions and write all the numbers down. So style up dial down and four separate Crown positions or the dial on the watch like 6 o'clock high 6 o'clock low something so you know what all the four positions are. Then typically on any watch you wind it up let it run about 1530 minutes before timing but wind it up all the way until you feel the mainspring slipping is this an automatic or wind it up until its tights even though it is an automatic then time it.. If your mainspring is not slipping it's going to get that little bit of extra energy and it's going to screw up timekeeping possibly. You might even put it on the timing machine and when it's stable slowly wind it up and see if you can wind it up to the point where it speeds up.. Then you're also doing six position timekeeping to make sure there isn't some position where they hairspring is touching something it's not supposed to.
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