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JohnR725

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JohnR725 last won the day on November 4

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About JohnR725

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  1. It would be nice if you would give us timing results in another position as I assume you timed it dial down? So rotating into a crown position like crown down we can see if the results look the same. Then any time your graphical display doesn't look right then the numbers are not going to be correct either even if they look like valid numbers they probably aren't. Then one of the reasons we question year nifty app is in the past we've seen examples of bad timing results because the apps usually have inappropriate pickup devices to properly get the sounds from the watch to the app giving us goofy results. Then for Rebanking I like the video below visually and audio is presented. https://youtu.be/Rcqrb3_vin8 Then how are you cleaning the watch. When you reassemble watch check the end shake of the wheels. It looks like from your bridge that it's only held in place by two screws it's possible that it's been bent down in the middle I just can't tell from the picture whether it has any support at the end or not.
  2. I was kinda hoping your response above was a joke and you're not seriously asking if that's the original movement? In case it's a serious question that most definitely is not the original movement the original movement has a balance wheel and yes it has a battery also. The first link shows you what the movements should look like and if you're really curious get the book found at the second link. http://www.hamiltonwristwatch.com/movements.html http://www.hamiltonwristwatch.com/book.html
  3. If you go to the link below scroll down to the section titled Joseph School of Watch Making And realistically download the entire book because it has really useful information. But you looking at section titled Unit 9b - Friction Jeweling. That is going to answer a lot of questions maybe not all of them but that would get you started. https://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs
  4. this is watch repair anything is possible? This means that if you look on the catalog pages of the attached PDF you may find the exact size jewel you're looking for. But is also the possibility of the various watch companies using their own jewels and the outside diameters might not correspond to the jewel sizes found on the catalog page. 5006 A_a_F Seitz jewels.pdf
  5. both tools will work fine. Normally when people are replacing broken jewels when fitting a new jewel it will more than likely be sized differently which is why you would need to ream out the hole for proper fit. As you already have a proper replacement jewel that will not need to be done. lever versus micrometer head? Conceivably with the lever you'll have much more pushing force. The micrometer head in my opinion gives you much more precise adjustments.. then the 3 mm versus the 4 mm? The older horia tool tool that I have has a spindle of 3 mm with a base of 4 mm.. The Seitz set both the base and the spindle are 4 mm. So for compatibility reasons it's nice to have everything at 4 mm for interchangeability..
  6. if you don't like the Chinese version can you return it? Visually it looks really really close to the Horia. One of the problems I found from buying Chinese stuff that visually what you think you're purchasing isn't always entirely what you get. Then for the Seitz versus Horia tool? if you're going to insert new jewels you're going to have to acquire the Seitz tool as it has the reamers that you're going to need. Then it will let you push the jewels in so one tool does it all. But the Horia tool is so much nicer for pushing the jewels and adjusting end shake. So the absolute best world would be to have both of them. https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Jewellling-Setting-staking-tools.html
  7. I seem to be confused today? Would it be possible to attach the tech sheet you're getting the part number from? The reason for this I looked on a site to get a cross reference but the number doesn't agree with what you have? Then I am attaching a parts sheet and the number doesn't agree with what's on this sheet? Citizen 0850.pdf
  8. numerically it looks right but you still have to measure the original and the new staff to make sure all the dimensions are indeed the same. Then one other minor irritation? the problem with visually looking at a new old stock staff is there is no way to tell where it came from. So some of the aftermarket manufacturers will make the staff over size on the grounds that the watchmaker can reduce everything to fit.
  9. usually with American pocket watches even if you have a part number you absolutely still have to measure the staff to verify its dimensions match the one that the part number has. For instance I'm attaching an image you'll notice that even if you have a part number for some staffs they have a lot of variations. Variations lead to frustrations for people that don't grasp that there are variations. Fortunately it appears to be your staff doesn't have variations. Although the parts book I looked in listed the number is 5317 and the image I'm attaching ads the C which conceivably means there's a variation even though it's not shown in the listing. than the eBay listing above has staff number 4191C which is an entirely different staff than the one that I came up with by looking in the Elgin parts catalog of the 50s. I'm also attaching it the images from the 50s catalog. They can see your serial number range comes up with a number. Then with that number you can look up the part number.
  10. Any oil is better than no oil. When the 9415 came into existence it was specifically recommended for higher frequency watches. The problem with horological lubrication and the tech sheets are they could be almost 100 years old. More than likely anything in the last 50 years is going to seem like a relatively modern tech sheet. But the consequence of this is lubrication requirements specifications etc. have changed over the last hundred years which leads to lots of confusion as the tech sheets are all going to point to different lubricants. It also doesn't help that the various manufacturers have their own recommendations. So currently 9415 seems to be the universal recommendation for everything.
  11. If you look at their contact page they give you the complete address which according to Google puts them definitely in India. I see they also repair watches with very interesting prices. I'm assuming the cost of living in India must be insanely low and hourly wages equally low. https://www.oldswisswatches.com/watch-repair-services/
  12. Just as a reminder on modern balance wheels the hairspring is vibrated to the individual balance wheel. That's why when you look at spare parts list for modern watches the hairspring is not considered a separate component. In the days of American pocket watches the hairspring was separate but that's because they had timing screws to allow you to match the balance wheel to the hairspring. Then if moving the regulator and it has zero effect that is because the hairspring is still touching something it's not supposed to be touching.
  13. You can do that but be warned you might be dealing with radium. The problem is without a Geiger counter you can't be 100% sure whether it is or is not but from the 50s they were still using radium.
  14. I'm guessing Australian slang for eBay. Then the eBay is the place where you can pick up almost everything sooner or later if you're patient and know how to search for things or you just stumble across it by accident. A lot of times unfortunately the sellers sell things in assortments and won't describe, Or don't describe what they're selling. Sometimes that's outstanding for the buyer but it's a pain in the ass If you're looking for scrap movements and they don't have a description.
  15. If you put the pallet fork back in and set the bridge on top you'll find that the banking pins are milled into the pallet fork bridge usually. So there's nothing to do here there.individual pens it basically just forms a milled slot. Which will see when we get the pallet fork bridge.
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