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JohnR725 last won the day on January 26

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About JohnR725

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  1. It's a standard problem for 218 watches. If you're not familiar with the watch you really should have the service manual if you're not familiar with the watch you probably shouldn't work on the watch. Page 30 of the PDF manual below shows the Canon pinion labeled as center wheel assembly. Then it's also found on page 35 showing how it's lubricated just don't use their lubrication recommendation as it's a very poor choice. Then before you rush out in order your canon pinions/center wheel assembly you'll have to take the old one out and measure the height. http://www.decadecounter.com/accutron/Accutron218ServiceManual.pdf
  2. I assume you're using the seitz tool? I have a picture from the manual showing how you supposedly use the reamer. As already pointed out by oldhippie and my own personal experience do not follow the example shown in the manual. It is so easy to go past the hole size if you're not careful and end up with a hole that is too big. If you have a complete seitz set it should have the hole closing punches. Then worst-case they also make brass bushings that can be inserted in and then you put the jewel into the bushing.
  3. Before ripping your watch apart and doing all those checks you were supposed to do in the first place can you do the visual check of the pallet fork between the banking pins without power? Then yes for everybody else it's not a perfect test but it still should be reasonably close versus the goofy numbers the timing machine is showing. It's important for people to learn what to look for. In other words the classic check for seeing if your watch is beat is the look at the pallet fork at rest because it gets you really really close. Timing machines are interesting devices for diagnosing adjusting watches etc. but they rely on certain things. They have to have a good clean signal and the watch has to be running correctly. Then it's always interesting to see how the timing machine attempts to communicate that it's having a problem. Typically the Chinese machines will attempt to give you something no matter what with zero indication that's having a problem. The number 9.9 is a clue that it's having an problem. The expensive switch's witschi machines will usually get mad and give you an error message and tell you you're either out of range or some other silly message. You can usually get around that by changing the parameters but they can still be fooled. One of my favorites is if the amplitude is too low the timing machine will read the wrong part of the waveform and show you a nice amplitude that's not there at all.
  4. I have a link to someone supposedly servicing a 1520 but it's missing the hack? Then I'm attaching PDFs for the 1520 and the base caliber 1530. Also attached is a service manual ancients one which on PDF page 7 shows the hack mechanism and how it's supposed operate. https://watchguy.co.uk/service-repair-rolex-air-king-5500-calibre-1520/ 1520.pdf 1520-1525.pdf 1530.pdf
  5. The most likely scenario for lack of end shake is that the nuts rotated. So once the balance bridge is removed apparently they are free to rotate like in a cleaning machine for instance. Then yes the direction your indicating is the proper direction. Which is also probably why they have a flat area for you to do your pushing. Knowing Rolex they probably have special pushers just for this.
  6. Yes it's really important that discussions occur where there supposed to. As pointed out above not everyone looks at all the discussions I typically only look at watch repair. Unless it's a really new discussion and it's on the right-hand side and I see it there. Then the reason for timing watches in multiple positions is it's used for diagnostic purposes. Then if your pocket watch is a vast pocket watch your right you can keep it up right but if it's in your pocket and you should ever sit down then it's going to be resting on the balance pivots or at an angle. Also important when using the timing machine that you should be timing at equivalent of fully wound up but you need to let it run about 30 minutes. Then at 24 hours later as things can change dramatically in 24 hours. Then the reason I asked which timing machine is on multiple of occasions we've been led down the rabbit hole because somebody's using a phone app or some other device that has a pickup that totally sucks. Can't do proper diagnosis with faulty equipment. So it looks like the 1500 visually looks identical to the 1000. So it would be really nice to have a picture of the timing machine with this watch so we can see the graphical display just because we like to look at pictures. We've had discussions elsewhere the machines can have rollover errors which might not be the right term where the graphical display will look perfect but the numerical display does not agree with the graphical display. 9.9 is indicating the machine is reached the maximum beat error which isn't good. Amplitude will magnify that but it has to be below 200° Then considerably below that so visually what does the amplitude look like? Then if the amplitude was low enough to make the beat error look this bad it probably wouldn't be keeping time either. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Unitas_235
  7. Yes technically a right you can't send it in especially after I had a conversation with somebody who understands servicing Rolex watches. If you look at the image I attached up above it shows the two little nuts for adjusting the balance end shake. Then if you read the original posting after servicing everything bad happened that's because the regulating nut's as Rolex calls them relocated tight giving zero adjustments which is why the lower jewel assembly had its issues. So obviously it's not a warranty issue or a manufacturing defect. It's what happens if you don't have a service manual to understand what those little nuts were for.
  8. What or which model of timegrapher Do you have? Then when you're timing the Watch do you time the watch in multiple positions like dial-up and dial down and in any other positions? Then with no power applied the pallet fork in the watch where is it in relationship to the banking pins?
  9. We would need to know the movement number of your watch the 5513 is a reference number not the movement number. Then we can't really determined the parts until you take the back off and do a partial disassemble of the movement. Then usually on the watch like this if it hasn't been serviced in a while a full complete overhaul would be recommended.
  10. If it fixes the problem 100% why should it matter if the watch is really expensive? I'm wondering if you have a defective watch and maybe you should send it back to Rolex for warranty repair? Because the lower assembly shouldn't fall out and it should go back in and stay in place. Then they do make tools for closing holes in a more uniform fashion then recommended above I'm attaching an image. But you want to be careful here and not to get carried away and smash the heck out of the hole otherwise you're going to need a new plate. It's probably a dyslexia thing on my part but I think I'm reading this backwards from the way I usually think about it? I'm attaching an image out of the Seitz manual showing a jewel but the same principle applies. Looking at my Kif book unfortunately it's not a PDF it shows the settings being pushed in the same as the jewel is being pushed.. Then from the Rolex Service manual side view of the balance assembly. It is not a lot of thickness to the plate the setting needs to be centered for maximum strength. The adjustment of end shake is by the brass nuts on the other side. The alignment of the balance wheel with the pallet fork in all of this is extremely close tolerances. Rolex gets really obsessed with end shake adjustments so there's not a lot of play here.
  11. Yes I know this isn't an overly helpful answer. Your unhelpful answer is yes that is the case number. So for instance if you go to the first link and could figure out which of the two watches is yours the one that I picked is wrong because the movements wrong. Then you get a number like this ST 166.0263. Then take that number to cousins you get a PDF of case parts unfortunately not your case parts. This is the frustration I've always had with omega numbers it's a case number of but trying to figure out what omega really thinks the numbers supposed to be to look up the parts can be a challenge. Somewhere in the universe there should be a cross reference Of the actual case back numbers to whatever number you are supposed to use to look up case parts. https://www.omegawatches.com/vintage-watches?reference=166.026 https://www.blackbough.co.uk/product/omega-seamaster-cosmic-ref-166-026-steel-vintage-wristwatch-circa-1969-wwoscas/
  12. Out of curiosity do you have the service manual for your watch? Then getting Rolex parts in the US is really challenging as Rolex doesn't like independent watchmakers. Another source for Rolex parts is the link below. https://startimesupply.com/
  13. Notice how the dial side is much bigger than the backside? Also the case screws are pulling the movement back so that's not the way it would come out. We need a really good side view picture to see what has to come off whether it's only the crystal or whether there is a ring holding the crystal in place perhaps. Pictures a little fuzzy but looks like a button rather than a screw to remove the stem. So move the stem and the two case screws and then whatever has to come off on the front and the movement will fall out the front side.
  14. It would've been better to have a picture of the balance wheel when it's not moving as it makes it hard to see things. It looks like you might be missing timing screws perhaps? You should have pairs of screws one on one side one of the opposite side and they should match. Sometimes one will fall out and that makes the watch run really fast. Then as these are early production watches you will have lots of variations with the quantity of timing screws the length of the hairspring etc. If you look at the link below you can see other examples of watches like yours. The reason you want to look at the pictures is this is a really early watch and it helps to see examples similar to yours. For instance unlike modern watches that are usually pinned really close to the end of the hairspring these were not. You'll notice quite a few of the watches in the pictures have quite a bit of hairspring stuck out. If you do decide to re-pin the hairspring you will have to put the watch back in beat. Then look really carefully as you want to make sure the hairspring is flat not touching the balance arms or the balance bridge. Then we really need a better picture so I found another link the second link below much better picture. Notice they hairspring is stuck out quite a ways. Then I believe this is a flat hairspring obsession with centering might be an issue. Notice there is very little terminal curve found on modern watches. Usually it's not a problem but if you get carried away with trying to center then the next coil over conceivably will bump into the other side of the regulator pins. Problems of American pocket watch mainsprings" Originally the Springs came in a variety of strengths for a given size of a manufacturer of a watch. This way a seven jewel watch could have a spring strong enough to run. A jeweled watch could get a weaker spring. But today they've reduce the quantity of Springs down. Then for the same thickness the modern white spring is usually always stronger than the original blued spring. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/illinois/1106 https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Vintage_Illinois_Springfield_Watch_Co._Pocket_Watch,_Currier_Model,_Hunter_Case,_Coin_Silver,_Key_Wind_%26_Set,_11_Jewels,_Size_18_(14714708570).jpg
  15. So these snippets that I have did come out of the electronic edition. It really helps that I have the paper edition so I've had a lot of time going through them and grasping what's in there. You can do a search for the words at least it's searchable. Some more in the book is balance staffs you can get the staff number that your watch is supposed to have and somewhere else it will listed dimensions. There's also a website that will do that and the bonus the website you can purchase staffs. So I snipped off the image from the website. Then as long as your pivots are the correct size and they haven't ground off broken off whatever it's probably the right staff. The likelihood of finding an incorrect staff and getting everything to fit and being too short is very unlikely. But having somebody staff and grind the pivots shorter which you should visually be able to see could be a problem. But if it looks right it probably is the right staff. The only way are really gone billet tell us to get another watch and look at It. https://www.balancestaffs.com/eterna.php
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