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JohnR725 last won the day on September 12

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About JohnR725

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  1. JohnR725

    Kluber P-125 vs. Homemade

    There are other breaking greases out there Moebius 8212, 8213 & 8217.. I have a link to the website. Then application of p-125? This is really really sticky grease and if you apply too much it's too sticky. To understand this I have some images attached you can see just very tiny amounts are used spaced around the barrel. Because if you go excessive it doesn't want to slip almost at all. There are Mysteries to breaking grease? If you look at Henry's formula basically it's graphite or molybdenum disulphide Mixed into a heavy watch oil. If you look at the description on the website link below for the lubricants I mention above each one has specific properties for aluminum barrel or brass barrel or the other one that sees you more generic but unique properties. Then you also noticed that they have other greases that are lubricating not breaking with molybdenum disulphide Then don't remember which lubrication was used or whether we used too much.. Some of these if you use too much there actually too slippery. So too slippery or zero breaking which you would have with the over-the-counter lubricant that's meant to lubricate not break would cause the following? It's the weird end of the automatic spring that holds it in place when the rest of the spring winds up the end part pulls away the spring slips This is where the molybdenum disulphide Comes in its the high-pressure lubricants. Then after releasing a little power it's supposed to stop but if you have a really nice lubricant in their it's not stopping you lose a whole lot of power. So the tube is cheap try an experiment. The worst case I can see is it's going to slip too much you'll probably need an auto winder as it probably won't have enough power to go overnight. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases
  2. Sometimes getting the editor to remove things is difficult if seemingly impossible. So there's a interesting feature you can make use of an all or nothing delete feature. That is you have something you want to delete close the window/Tab that this website is in. I sometimes do this I forget I'm doing a reply. I go to research something I leave come back and it looks like there's nothing in the editor. But soon as you click that you going to reply the editor remembers everything. Which used to be still prevented you from deleting off anything but that's changed it now has a new feature. I've attached image of what you should see it knows it's restoring previous text it gives you the option of leaving all of it. But if you want to keep it you can hit the acts and everything stays. As I said really nice if you forget that you're towing something in need to come back equally nice if you want to delete everything and start over. The problem of spare parts and where to get them? Then there are other complications like who you are hobbyist versus professional and where you are? For instance there's a lot of local material houses that won't even do online trading they only deal with the watchmakers in the region a lot of these won't even talk to hobbyists. Simplistically if you're not in the trade you don't exist as far as they are concerned. Then the online dealers do they ship out of the country? So for instance there is a place where we buy things from the get the best price you have to be a login is usually just a couple of dollars off whatever they show so your NH35 movement is $38.. Then there's the other strange thing sometimes even the wholesale material house is not the cheapest place to buy things from. A lot of times eBay is cheaper but not necessarily. You basically if you want the best price you have to go shopping and look at everybody. http://www.startimesupply.com/
  3. The interesting thing with inexpensive mechanically & quartz movements are a lot of times you get a service sheet and the service sheet will show spare parts yet no spare parts are available? It's because it's actually cheaper for the factories to mass-produce movements entirely with automated machinery that it is to package up spare parts. Spare parts are packaged up by hand they become very expensive.
  4. JohnR725

    Kluber P-125 vs. Homemade

    Kluber P-125 Is specified as a breaking grease used on the Mainspring barrel wall of automatic watches. It needs to have some unique properties. It's supposed to hold until the mainspring is almost wound up at which time it slips and acts like a grease. The problem will be is you need a very high pressure grease when it does slip otherwise as the mainspring slips you will get metal filings in your mainspring. Then the wrong lubrication or improperly implying the lubrication you could have premature slipping the mainspring will never hold.
  5. If you look up bearing bronze comes in a whole variety of numeric representations and slightly different names. Including such things as C954 Aluminum Bronze. So basically there's a whole bunch of bronze material for bearings and bronze for other stuff that is not good for bearings. Which is why I have the caution of make sure you know what you're purchasing otherwise you're going to regret this. Your word lesson for the day what is Glucydur? So it's used primarily for balance wheels and Wikipedia indicates possibly other parts unfortunately it doesn't say what those other parts are.. It's basically a bronze with the addition of a forbidden metal.. Fortunately we usually don't have to machine these parts so it should be relatively safe. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucydur
  6. I was looking in my ancient bergeon Catalog. So in the watch material section is a reference to jewels and metal bushings for automatic watches.. Basically a comment that Jewels are preferred but for variety reasons metal bushings are used and material is hardened Beryllium. So they at one time had an assortment which was basically for AS, ETA & Felsa.. There is a reference that there designing another assortment for others Swiss factories.. But on the current website I can't seem to find bushings for watches anymore.
  7. When you mentioned bronze I called a friend who makes clocks to verify something? I had seen a reference before to someone else who made a clock and they used bronze for the plates because it be really really hard. Unfortunately the bronze they picked wasn't suitable for plates and cause the Pivots to disintegrate. So you just have to be careful that you picked the right bronze suitable for bushings. Then you may not actually have to use bronze at all? If you look up the age of the watch it's roughly 50 years old so it's taken a very long time to wear out its brass bushings. So at a 50 year replacement interval brass should work just fine. Especially if you drill the holes undersize and use a smoothing broach to harden the inside of the hole. Then the other thing is you do need to verify that the pivots that go in the holes are not rough.
  8. Then if the pivots for just a little bigger you could buy brass bushing wire. Designed for making bushings but the smallest size is .2 mm. I did find this site that had a few parts but doesn't have the right parts https://www.watchesulike.com/en/229-cal-501?id_category=229&n=24
  9. This was an unfortunate problem with early automatic watches before the manufacturers grasps that they should be Using jewels rather than bushings. I've seen for some Omega watches they replace the bushings with jewels. So that's another option to look into if you can find one the right size and thickness. As the tech sheet only has the pictures and numbers and doesn't explain what the parts are what is the number for the automatic bridge that you need the bushing for?
  10. JohnR725

    Elgin datemaster

    The dial says Elgin wouldn't the movement also be an Elgin movement?
  11. Ronda one of the better companies for tech sheets. Link below will have your "Complete technical documentation" sheet you need to pay attention to several things. There's an exact procedure for putting the hands back on. Then when you put the date indicated disc in there is a notch it needs to go in the proper place. https://www.ronda.ch/en/movements/quartz-specials/ronda-startech-5000/caliber/5040d/
  12. JohnR725

    Record 1955-2 train question

    There is a formula for calculating out the frequency so you have the right gear ratio for your gear train. It's found that the link below. You can at least do the calculation and see what frequency your gear train thinks it's for. Then if you're good at math you can probably figure out which wheel is at fault. Then the escape wheel for the 506 and 508 are the same. The number of teeth on the escape wheel are probably the same but the number of leaves On the pinion is probably not. https://books.google.com/books?id=nZ27BvJwol4C&pg=PA81&lpg=PA81&dq=Calculation+of+the+number+of+vibrations+per+hour+Watch&source=bl&ots=5qP-k1sz-I&sig=bL28H-7jfrQKM6V4-l8B88Quo7I&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiH1oGglYXeAhW0KX0KHc05BWsQ6AEwCXoECAAQAQ#v=onepage&q=Calculation of the number of vibrations per hour Watch&f=false
  13. JohnR725

    Anyone got one of these lathes??

    Definitely inexpensive and meant to turn metal not wood. At least if you believe the product specifications. So you could purchase one from Amazon but more important you can look at the reviews. The phrase you get what you pay for definitely implies here and it looks like you're probably paying too much. https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Motorized-Woodworking-Education-Modelmaking/dp/B00UL3J81S#customerReviews Then here are some ideas for re-pivoting. Even though it's in the watch repair section there isn't any reason why you couldn't scale them up in size to do clocks. The only problem is there are either accessories for a lathe or you really need a lathe to make these. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/4474-look-at-that-a-new-toy-diy-pivot-drill/
  14. JohnR725

    Opinions on tools

    It looks like you might be new to watch repair? Are you blaming the quality the tools or the lack of your knowledge for the lack of your success? The BHI in their horological journal September 2008 has a really nice review on screwdrivers. I'm only going to extract out the final outcome of the review which is really quite amusing. It becomes amusing because they're rating a whole bunch of things not just the screwdrivers themselves. Then if you look carefully there really isn't much difference between all of them. Really what is important is the quality of the screwdriver blades themselves. So when you're starting you don't have to have the most expensive tools. It's amazing what people can do with lesser grade tools providing they have the skill to use the tools. Obviously if the tools are total crap it doesn't matter how much skill you have. Perhaps a photograph of what you have so we can see what they look like. Then you started this discussion with one topic you've added in several other topics and if you're hoping for answers to any of those other questions you really should start a new discussion. Then before starting a new discussion it's always helpful to do a search because more than likely we might've already covered some of these things.
  15. The other thing that is needed when playing with magnets and watches is a way of figuring out if your watch really is magnetized or not. So there's the old-fashioned way with a compass image attached for how to do that. then a link to a free app for your phone from a company that wants to sell a really expensive demagnetizer. https://www.lepsi.ch/watch-demagnetizer/