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JohnR725 last won the day on January 28

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About JohnR725

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  1. No I think you're showing a poor attitude you'd have to keep up that enthusiasm and purchase one of these courses. That's because we would like the honest truth from somebody with experience as to what they think. A lot of times when newbies take courses like this there so dazzled and so impressed we don't get a real proper feel.
  2. If you look at all the marketing at least what we can see a heck of a lot of effort is put into this. But as the question was raised above it does make you wonder why we just get a first name? My first impression when I see something like this is to run away and assume it's a scam.
  3. The replacement movement was that purchased new from the material house or somewhere else? Then for the 947 series there appears to be zero technical literature but it looks vaguely similar to the 944 series which came out in 1981. So no matter where you purchase this watch it's going to be need to be serviced. Quartz watches with gears are just like any other mechanical watch at some point in time they need servicing and keep the circuit or the plastic plate out of the cleaning fluid it looks like the watch has a lot of plastic at least for the mainframe.
  4. What are you using to lubricate the setting parts? In your Picture is the canon pinion circled?
  5. Typically with watches like this there is no tech sheets but I found the attached tech sheet on cousins. It's the only Cartier Tech sheet that they had. Unfortunately no parts list but it does have the electrical tests which is usually harder to find than the parts list. 3982_Cartier 690.pdf
  6. Like any mechanical watch with gears it needs to be serviced from time to time. These quartz watches are usually pretty simple easy to clean expensive if you break something. Then link with technical information does cross reference to a Ebel Which is handy if you're looking for parts gives you more parts options. Then personally I do like Moebius quartz oil 9000 as it does work really well. http://calibercorner.com/cartier-caliber-690/
  7. Anytime were working with American pocket watches it's nice to have the serial number especially when looking for parts. Then because this is not your normal 12 size it's extra thin looks like you're right it's a friction jewel setting. So image extracted from a listing so we get the diameter and the thickness. Then the other minor problem with Illinois all the different part numbers to make for a confusing mess.
  8. If you look carefully at the actual statement its loose pallet stones etc. It's more of a generalization statement. The graphical display comes from the sounds of the escapement. One side of the escapement produces one line the other side the other line. Then there's a problem with timing machines and liquid crystal displays we can see the pixels. So the upper line is migrating relatively straight across the display moving up one pixel at a time but remaining straight. The lower line looks like it's wandering around both going up and down. It really should look more like the upper line. So anything that affects the escapement affects the sounds shows up on the display. As it looks like only one side then it would be typically one side of the escapement. So loose pallet stone possibly even the roller jewel which would affect both could be damaged and I've even seen a loose roller jewel only show up on one side. Escapement lubrication one stone gets lubricated the other does not look like this along with anything that screws up the escapement dirty escapement etc. So cleaning examining and re-lubricating would be a good idea. Then a watch made in the early 70s isn't exactly a vintage watch it really should look a little better.
  9. I found some additional information you might find useful. Then on page 7 of the PDF it talks about the application. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/files/security_sheet/tinf_8980-8981-8982_fixodrop_es-bs_en.pdf https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=fixodrop BHI The Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches Version 2008.0.pdf
  10. Out of curiosity which brand and type did you get? The reason for the question is if you have the new environmentally friendly version where it's applied is different then how it was done in the past. The link below talks about the hazards of the past solutions. . The purpose of this solution is to keep oil from spreading. As the link below talks about like all horological lubrication discussions where it's applied how it's applied can vary by quite a bit. For instance Omega in the 50s did not recommend applying it to the pallet fork at all. Versus today Universally everyone applies it to the pallet stones but nothing else on the pallet fork. With the newer environmentally friendly version it comes in really big bottles like 1L 5L according to the most recent Omega document it should be in the last rinse of your cleaning machine and almost everything is covered with this versus the past where it was only applied to a couple of parts. http://watchmakingblog.com/2011/07/29/one-hazard-of-epilame/
  11. Interesting your both having the same problem because I didn't have any problems getting the PDF? Then the PDF is identical to the one you posted above it's just the parts list. The problem is especially with the older watches you're lucky if you get anything at all, usually it's only a parts list. They didn't generate technical documentation for every single watch showing lubrication. So the way around that problem is to find something similar today like what I'm going to attach where you can get the modern lubrication requirements. Then I'm also attaching a Omega document which talks about lubrication. Typically in the technical communications that do talk about lubrication then they still assume that you know what you're doing it and you don't get a guide showing quantities etc. which is covered in the Omega documentation. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2370 ETA 6497-1 28.11.2016.pdf Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication CousinsUK.com.pdf
  12. One of the problems you're having is the Chinese do not exactly clone properly. The meaning of this is they can sometimes skip manufacturing steps or other bad things. For instance in the image attached on the left-hand side is the setting from the watch in question for this discussion and on the right-hand side is from a different watch but we can still see a difference between the two that's relevant. Notice in the Swiss original I circled something I don't know if it has a technical term but basically the backstop. So normally when you lift up the spring it hinges and stays in place because the backstop keeps it from sliding out. The clones skip this part which means when you hinge up your spring there is nothing to hold it in place and it falls out. Putting the spring back in the setting is a greater challenge with the Swiss version because typically you have to remove the setting to get the spring back in. Fortunately the Chinese have made it easy to put it back in without disassembly. So hopefully I can word this so it makes sense? Looking down at the slot if you carefully inserted the spring from corner to corner it will drop into the slot. Once it's they you can rotated the tabs will be underneath and it will stay in place as long as it doesn't rotate again. Once it's in place you can lock the tabs on the other side the same as you would a conventional spring.
  13. Timing machines are interesting devices? You have to be very careful when interpreting the results that the results are actually what's really going on with the watch? If you look at your waveform from the beginning you'll notice that you do not have straight parallel lines there very irregular. This tells us your watch is having a very bad day. The timing machine does not have artificial intelligence so it doesn't look at the graphical display it just displays whatever it gets. Then it takes the numbers and gives you numbers but if the graphical display does not have the correct display like reasonably smooth parallel lines then numerically what you're seeing will not be correct. A example of this notice your watches keeping zero seconds fast or slow? But look at the graphical display at the time of zero seconds does that really look like zero seconds? The other thing when using the timing machine having a more than one position is very helpful. So wristwatch crown down position would be good so we can compare crown down with whichever dial position your timing in. So when you put the watch in beat how did you do that and did you visually verify that it is indeed in beat? Then other than the beat changing from cleaning how exactly did you clean the watch and the lubricants used?
  14. If you're looking for watch lift angles the list below seems to be more complete than most. Your's is listed as 45°. https://www.lepsi.ch/lift-angle/
  15. A lot of times with the Swiss companies with the more expensive watches they keep historical data. At the bottom of the page at the link below You can request an extract from their archives. Then for dial cleaning you can do a search it's come up before usually it's bad to try to clean a dial. They're not designed to be washed for the most part. Gently brushing with a soft brush is okay anything resembling fluids is usually bad. https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/customer-services/customer-care-watches.html
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