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Klassiker

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About Klassiker

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    Munich

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  1. @jdm Thanks again, much appreciated. Until I get stuck in and do some testing and investigating I am just guessing. Maybe I have put something back upside down (done that on a 7750), or got a big hair in there somewhere. There was a fair bit of waxy something or other on some surfaces when I opened it up, so who knows? I will check everything that has been suggested so far and report back when I find something worth reporting.
  2. The consensus seems to be lack of cleanliness as the most likely cause. I will strip, inspect and clean the whole thing again, and this time I will remove and clean those two small cap stones. I have some Sambol Platina 1:20, which is an alcohol and ammonia based fluid, but had stopped using it because it's mixed with 20 parts water. It also leaves streaks and spots. I will use it this time and rinse in alcohol to remove the residues and water. Thanks to everyone who tried to help so far. I'll report back when I've made some progress.
  3. @aac58 I have read many times on this forum that soaking for several minutes in isopropyl alcohol does not dissolve or soften shellac to a noticeable degree. Have you had direct experience of shellac being affected by rinsing in it?
  4. Would you suggest as a rinse in something else after cleaning in lighter fluid, or a different cleaning solution altogether? I used One-Dip on the balance, but lighter fluid on the cap jewels and settings. The faces of the cap jewels I polished on cigarette paper, but if the lighter fluid has left a residue, it is still on the hole jewels. I did not remove and clean the 3rd and escape wheel shock assemblies. I was advised not to, but as long as it's not an order of magnitude trickier than the balance shocks, I would be prepared to have a go.
  5. I cleaned in jars of lighter fluid, in a water bath, in a domestic ultrasonic machine, for 10 minutes. I am thinking that this has maybe left a sticky residue on pivots and bearings, so I plan to re-clean and rinse with isopropyl alcohol. I didn't oil the escape wheel pivots at first, though I tried it later. It made no difference. I used Dr. Tillwich 1-3 (a fine watch oil for low-load pivots) on the 3rd. wheel. I used the same oil for the balance, and Möbius 941/2 on the pallets.
  6. I have definitely photographed the flat sides. I have cleaned the stones repeatedly. Nothing changes. I am convinced that both stones are pitted. One is clearly worn, but not in a way you would expect from only two years of intermittent use, and the other is cratered like the surface of the moon, but fortunately not in the area of contact with the staff. I don't think the are contributing to the basic problem, and I have re-used them here, but I would like to replace them later. @jdm I will check all of those things when I get time and report back, thanks.
  7. It sounds like it has more problems than just dirt. I'm guessing a broken balance staff and worn or missing parts elsewhere. These can be fixed, and you probably have all necessary the tools, but maybe you don't have the skills or confidence yet. You could make a start by stripping and cleaning, then assessing the damage. You can do this without much risk. You might then decide to leave it for another day, or carry on. You are going to want to practise using those tools sooner or later, but at this stage you might do irreparable damage. It depends on how much the watch us worth to you I suppose, and whether you are prepared to write it off. If this watch is of value to you, or you want a quick win, or you want to do a good restoration, then practice on something else first. If you already view it as scrap, then carry on and good luck!
  8. My SARB17 has been playing up lately. The amplitude was low and it was losing minutes a day. I remembered it had got water inside some time ago (condensation on the glass) and although I reacted quickly and dried it out straight away, I thought I'd better take a look inside. Other than that, I'm not aware of anything happening to the watch, and it is only about 2 years old, and worn 2 or 3 days a week. It was running well until recently. I have stripped and cleaned the movement, inspected all the parts (absolutely no signs of rust) reassembled and lubricated, and was fully expecting a good result. Instead I have this: There does seem to be more friction in the wheel train than ideal. The pallet fork isn't flicking over with as much energy as I think it should. I will remove the barrel tomorrow and try to find where the drag is coming from. The amplitude is extremely low. The reading on the timegrapher above isn't to be trusted. I would estimate 80 degrees. The only fault I found when I inspected the parts were poor surfaces on the balance cap jewels. The first shows what appear to be manufacturing defects, and the second shows a dimple in the centre which could be wear. I'm afraid I don't know which is which. I mixed the up, and the dimensions are the same, according to my measurements. I have not closely inspected the balance pivots yet, but the balance swings freely when the pallet fork is removed. I'd appreciate any advice on likely causes and where to start looking.
  9. Very much appreciated, this walk-through. It's amazing how much quicker I can work if I don't have to photograph everything! I have removed the balance cap-jewels and settings for cleaning. I'm confident I can put these back OK. There are two other cap jewels held by Diafix springs on the barrel and train-wheel bridge, for the escape wheel and third wheel. These are smaller, and look like a challenge. Before I do something I'll regret, what are your opinions? a). Leave well alone, no need to tempt fate or b) Absolute must, if you are doing a proper job
  10. Definitely brass for me (Dumont 1AM), for general handling. Very grippy and no chance of scratching steel parts. That's good for a part-time amateur like me. I've hardly used anything else since I bought them and even though I dropped them (pointy-end down of course) after two days, they were easy to straighten and file back into shape. I haven't tried bronze, but I imagine I would get on with them equally well. Steel I prefer for the fine-pointed (#4 and #5) tweezers I use when I (rarely) tackle a hairspring or suchlike. Brass is too soft and flexible. I try to avoid using tweezers of any sort when handling jewels.
  11. Welcome to the forum, Max. Looks like you are in the mountains, maybe not far from me.
  12. What a background! Site like this cannot have too many members like you. I'm sure you can offer a great deal, and this is a very appreciative group. I hope you can get something positive from your membership too. Welcome!
  13. This is the hairspring which now looks like a bird's nest, right? Here it looks like the outer coil is snagged on the inside of the boot and has been forced above the inner coils. Can you get pictures of the one on the donor movement? One similar to this, and one in the plane of the spring. Then one of the balance and spring assembly separated from the cock.
  14. I didn't think it looked too bad when it was on the balance, but now it is way beyond saving in my opinion. Maybe you could show us the tools you have been using, and describe your technique? Until you have understood what you have been doing wrong, there's no point in continuing, I would say. You can practice on this. You cannot make it worse. Hair springs are really, really hard to do well. The only tips I can give you are to read some threads on here where people describe the process, always to look carefully before touching the spring, decide what you think needs to be corrected, and exactly how you are going to achieve it, then perform the exact movements you decided upon, slowly and gently. If you managed to perform the exact movements you planned (no slips, shakes or drops) what was the result? If it wasn't what you expected, why not? What did change, and do you understand why? It's a long learning process, and you have to go slowly and be methodical. Don't touch the spare one until you are confident you know what you are doing.
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