Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Klassiker

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello JohnR725, Thank you for putting so much time and effort into your replies. All the information I was asking for is there, and then some! I'm going to be much more brief this time. Quote: minor nitpicky complaints - minor; OK if you see it that way. I'd prefer to say detailed. Likewise nitpicky. Complaints: no, I definitely wasn't complaining, just asking for clarification, which you very generously provided. Thanks again. I have the 2nd edition of Fried's Watch Repairer's Manual, and my quote was taken from page 153 of that book, in the section Polishing a Dirty or Tarnished Pivot, in Part III: How to Polish a Balance Staff Pivot of Chapter IX ADJUSTING A BALANCE STAFF.
  2. Hi jdm - no I haven't, but in the near future I will. I have a jacot tool, just need to find the time and a few willing victims. I am curious about the original question, which was restricted to cleaning the pivots, not working them in the sense of cutting or burnishing.
  3. I'm a big fan of the adjustingvintagewatches blog. I learned a lot by reading the posts there, especially about poising, and I rate his writing highly. In my opinion, he expresses himself very carefully and precisely (he's a scientist by trade), and seems to know his stuff when it comes to watches, so it would be a surprise to me if he wrote something misleading. I'd really like to understand if what he says about jeweller's rouge is correct or not. To quote the very next sentence after the one in which he mentions the balloon chuck - "But you can also simply freehand it: the wood is soft, and you won’t reshape the pivot with rouge on a stick." He also refers to Fried's "Watch Repairer's Manual", and I checked the reference. In my copy (2nd. edition) he writes about using pegwood charged with rouge to polish pivots. His illustration shows the staff mounted in the split chuck, not a balloon chuck, and he states "A very high luster and polish may be given this pivot without reducing its thickness perceptibly by using a piece of pegwood charged with a mixture of oil and jewelers' rouge." He makes a clear distinction between the effect of rouge and the effect of "active abrasive" or burnishing on the pivot dimensions and shape. So Paul from AVW is clear that he's using rouge and soft wood to avoid reducing or reshaping the pivots, and only to remove stubborn crusted-on dirt which cleaning solutions and pithwood won't touch. He refers to Fried who says the same. So why do you interpret the suggested use of a balloon chuck, soft wood and rouge as an instruction to impart heavy burnishing? Or am I reading you incorrectly? If it's the use of the term "scrubbing" you object to, then I agree, it's not accurate. But I don't think it's misleading in the context. "Cleaning" seems to be a perfectly appropriate term. Oh, and I also agree, dirty balance pivots is unlikely to be the cause of Charlie's recurring low amplitude. After all that, the question I really want to ask is, can you or can you not reduce or re-shape a (steel) balance staff pivot using jeweler's rouge (iron oxide) embedded in wood?
  4. A final report from my side. Here's a close-up of the regulator pins in action. I think you can make out where the balance spring sits in the gap, and that the gap is reasonably small and parallel in the area it needs to be. I think I'll leave it at that. The movement has too many other issues to be a really good performer anyway, but great for practising on. Thanks again to everyone for the help and advice.
  5. Hello Ross, welcome, let us know what you are up to. Beginners are extremely well treated here. Help is always available.
  6. Success! A drop of oil on the base boot and the head of the rivet then letting it soak for a while worked wonders! Didn't even need working loose, just turned like there'd never been a problem. I also managed to straighten the pin to a reasonable degree by placing the tip of an oiler between pin and boot, then squeezing with tweezers. The final adjustment of the gap I will do when fitting everything back together. I don't see how I can get the gap small enough and parallel, without putting a severe dog-leg in the pin right at the bottom, but I might not have to. We'll see. Thanks very much once again. Amazing how just having the confidence you are doing the right thing helps you do it right.
  7. Thanks guys, this is just the kind of advice I was hoping for. As usual, WRT has the answer. I will work on freeing up the boot and report on the result.
  8. Can anyone give me advice on how best to open, close and adjust these regulating pins, before I do something irreversible? They are from an Osco 42. I have tried to turn the thicker pin with a screwdriver in the now mangled slot. I have also tried pliers. It won't budge. I Bent the thinner pin to get the hairspring out, but I suspect I don't have too many more chances to get it back into shape. I'd prefer to do as much manipulation as possible with the hairspring out of the way.
  9. Welcome to the forum! You have come to the right place for willing help and friendly advice.
  10. Hi Gary, is your watch not winding via the auto-mechanism, or via the crown/stem, or both?
  11. Welcome, Michael. You have come to the right place.
  12. It seems to be a common property of polymers. Here's a description of the mechanism: https://polymerdatabase.com/polymer physics/Permeability.html So that plastic bag may be permeable to water vapour, and to a lesser extent to liquid water. An important function of the bag is to stop the solid desiccant mixing with your vitamins. Maybe the reason it's so resistant to tearing is because the pellets are harmful if swallowed.
  13. Considering it's a cylinder escapement, and has that hook instead of banking pins (which doesn't seem to be doing anything by the way, if moving it has no effect), that's a very acceptable result. Maybe try carrying it in a pocket all day, and see if you get serviceable results in use. Position, temperature, and how fully it is wound are all likely to significantly affect the accuracy. If that works out OK then I would leave well alone and be very pleased with that as a first job. By "compass" I'm guessing you mean the regulator. It will be worth your while learning about the correct (English) terminology for watch parts if you are going to use this forum effectively. By the way, what is that microscope on your bench?
  14. Failing a comprehensive overview from one of our experts, I'd be tempted to order the top one. At 6.95 it's not a big risk, and you can interpret the description "Balance Complete, Ordinary & Shockproof" as meaning a universal version. I checked Ranfft, and all the variants of the Bifora 115 have the same balance staff number listed, so whichever you buy, it should fit. The other option is to give Cousins a call and ask them. They are reputedly very knowledgable and helpful. There are different versions of anti-shock-device fixing-springs shown by Ranfft (Bifora Bishock, Rufa-Anti-Shock). Which one do you have?
  15. Hi Koen, no need to offer the usual advice of "buy the best tools you can afford" in your case! That is a very nice work area indeed. You are obviously someone who likes to prepare very well before beginning work. As far as the timegrapher readings go, I would take them with a big pinch of salt wrt. cylinder escapements. Check the timekeeping after an hour, and if that's OK then after 24 hours. Also, don't worry about the watch not starting on its own when you wind it up. Cylinder escapements don't self-start like anchor escapements do. You have to give them a good shake with power in the main-spring.
  • Create New...