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About Klassiker

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    Watch Enthusiast

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  1. looking at the photo with the (lovely blue) dial and hour hand im place, the hand is touching the dial, so as CaptCalvin said, far too low. The cannon pinion isn't visible. Looking then at the photo below that, with the dial removed, the cannon pinion is clearly visible. So, I think you had the hand fitted upside down. The collar should be on the underside.
  2. The way I was taught (by trained watchmakers, but I myself am not qualified) was in line with what you are describing. In detail; 1. set the pallet fork against the left-hand banking pin. This ensures that the impulse jewel enters the fork. 2. introduce the balance assembly with the balance cock at least 90 degrees anticlockwise of its final position 3. seat the lower balance pivot without disturbing the pallet fork 4. rotate the balance cock clockwise (or the movement anticlockwise, whilst holding the cock still) into its final position, and rest gently on top of the balance wheel 5. locate the upper pivot in the jewel. The balance begins to swing 6. Drop the screw in. Hold the cock steady with a piece of pegwood or a toothpick and slowly tighten the screw. 7. If the balance stops swinging, immediately back off the screw. I guess you could also reverse the directions described in steps 1 to 4. At no stage are you coiling or uncoiling the hairspring.
  3. Oh by the way, I just checked, and he is only shipping to Germany. If you are determined to have it you will need to contact him about that first. If he won't ship to Sweden, and I can act as an intermediary, let me know.
  4. Google translate didn't do a bad job, to be fair. very well preserved and 100% intact A precision dial gauge from the company Mühle of Glashütte in Sa. (Saxony) is sold in the original wooden box in very good condition. The device is ready for immediate use. The design corresponds to the precision dial gauges that were also made in the German Watchmaker School in Glashütte. The quality and handling in practice are unsurpassed. Measuring accuracy 1/100 mm. It unfortunately doesn't say anything about what it can be used for or how to use it.
  5. Very good commentary. Can't wait for the reassembly and lubrication!
  6. Correction: pendant left is always important. It's PU or PD that depend on which wrist the watch goes on.
  7. I think this is the video you're referring to: Mark actually starts adjusting using 8 positions, then does the final fine-tuning in the three most important ones. What all 8 are I couldn't tell you. I only know of six positions for adjustment. Four vertical positions (pendant up, down, left and right) and two horizontal positions (face up and down). These have different relative importance depending whether it's a pocket watch or a wristwatch, and on the wearer and typical use. It's the first time I've come across PF "pendant forward" but at a guess it's the same as my pendant left. This is an important position (for people who wear the watch on the left wrist), because the watch spends a lot of time there during the day (arms folded, hands in the lap etc.). The other two are also important for similar reasons. Pendant up for example is not so important. The theory is, if you get these three positions running close to one another, you can regulate the watch to run very consistently in daily use.
  8. Many thanks once again HSL! It looks like making one may be beyond me, but I will have a go and report back. The square stem does indeed have a hole for a pin. Some of the pin is still in there!
  9. Thanks for the encouragement. I think it has to be a right-hand thread on the arbor, due to the direction the spring is acting. The mainspring did indeed have quite a bit of power left in it. There was a buzzing and a whirring for quite a while after I pulled out the balance, so it seems I have been very lucky indeed! I will check everything carefully again for damage. I have already found one cracked jewel.
  10. That is (almost) identical to the part I have. Could not have wished for better support, thank you! I do not have the two holes in the barrel arbour, so I can't use a compass or similar to unscrew it. I will try gripping the circumference with something. The action of the spring suggests it is a conventional right-hand thread, correct? Part of the stop-function (the disc with the finger on it) was missing when I opened the case, so it may well have been broken by another bodger who got there before me. I have the Maltese cross part. I may have a go at making a replacement if it's not too difficult. Would you have a picture of the part I need? How is it held in place?
  11. No, I did not do good! I did very bad, but got away with it thankfully, as it's not my watch. Lesson learned. Look before you leap and all that. Thanks for the encouragement!
  12. I am trying to get an old pocket watch running for a neighbour of mine. It has Louis Eschholz Gotha inscribed in the case, which would make it easily 100 years old. As you can see, there is a key for winding and setting. Here's the partially disassembled movement, still in the case until I worked out how to remove it. It's got a cylinder escapement, so there was an exciting moment when I removed the balance. What would have been the correct let the mainspring down? Luckily no damage was done, so I got everything stripped down completely except for the barrel and bridge assembly. Any suggestions how I should proceed? Unfortunately the stop work is incomplete.
  13. Thanks again for all your help. I took the clean in situ option and with a second clean in the ultrasonic then wicking dry got it clean. Was too chicken to try bending the tabs. I didn't fancy using pegwood. I really cannot get a sharp enough point. Maybe I'll ask for tips in a separate thread. Also I was worried about flakes and breakage, as per Nucejoe's comment. Anyway, here's a picture of the finished article. I wore it today and it loses a few seconds, but that's OK as I'll not be wearing it often.
  14. Not the best suggestion I'm sure, but if all else fails you can buy an assorted lot of jewel holes and spend an evening picking up each and every one, trying it for size, then discarding it in the slowly receding hope of finding "The One".
  15. OK, thank you clockboy and watchweasol. I will soak in lighter fluid and then give it a buzz in the ultrasonic bath (also in lighter fluid). By the way, how do you tell for sure if the jewels are completely free of contamination when cleaning in situ?
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