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About Klassiker

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  1. Agree completely, which is why I think a discussion about whether it is a fake "Mercedes Benz" watch or not doesn't make any sense. @OP: it's a used watch, not being sold as a new Mercedes product, right? Then don't make a fuss with the seller on Ebay, because it really doesn't matter. Mercedes couldn't care less. If you like the watch and the price is right, buy it. If not, ignore.
  2. Sure. My point is, that it is impossible for us to know who the manufacturer of that watch was. Assuming it is genuine Mercedes merchandising, even the people working in that department of Mercedes would struggle to find out, if it's not a current product. Even if they can tell you, it will be a company you have never heard of. The watch is worth the same, whether it is a fake or not.
  3. More likely a cheap merchandising item than a fake. What does "Mercedes Benz" on a watch mean anyway, even if originally sold by them?
  4. I have a budget LED strip light mounted above my workspace, and I recently bought a couple of sets of these - Adam Hall Stands SLED 2 PRO W - for close-up work.
  5. I have a similar digital microscope, and it was possibile to display the images on my laptop or monitor via the USB cable. If that works, you should be able to save images direct to your hard-drive. The images are far better quality than those displayed on the integrated screen.
  6. Spelling and punctuation.
  7. The fact that it is "loosening up" the more it runs suggests a lubrication issue to me. The stopping and starting depending on how you move and shake it could be because of low amplitude and/or high beat error. Those are what spring first to my mind anyhow. A strip-down, good clean and lubrication are probably all that are requred.
  8. Interesting! Please keep us updated with your progress.
  9. Good to see you are making progress. That's looking a lot more healthy and truthful. Were either of the two end stones in the wrong way up, or is the "improvement" just down to having a better contact to the microphone? The microphone is situated under the metal "claw", so it is a good idea to put the crown up against it as you found out for yourself already. The crown transmits the vibrations better than the casing, especially if there's a plastic movement holder in between. Also, adjusting the gain to maximum I find often works to clean up dirty traces. As it's an automatic, there's a good chance the mainspring is slipping too soon, and you aren't getting a full wind. You say you did't clean the mainspring too well, but (whisper it) they are not really that sensitive to a bit of dirt. There is a lot of energy in there, so contamination will increase wear and tear, but it is unlikely to cost you much amplitude. Did you lubricate the spring and barrel, and if so what with, how much, and where did you apply it? Another possibility is, you are applying too much oil at the escapement end, where a little bit of drag has a big effect.
  10. I'm no professional and certainly no expert either, but I don't think it's that simple. If it was just one shock absorber then the performance would tend to be better with that side of the movement uppermost. That's not happening here. You are losing 30-odd degrees of amplitude. Assuming you cleaned, inspected and lubricated both shock absorber assemblies, and you didn't see any major issues, then I can't see it being e.g. a stray speck of dirt on one end-stone. If you didn't unspect them though, then they could both be cruddy, worn or cracked. Otherwise, if the balance is running true and without excessive end-shake, then I'd be looking at the pallet as the next most likely culprit.
  11. Hello Frederic and welcome. Thank you for your touching and personal introduction. I'm sure everyone here offers their deepest sympathy. They are a very friendly and supportive bunch. Here's hoping that you find some comfort in your new (old) hobby.
  12. Could be gravity-related, in the sense that too much end-shake allows parts to move to different positions. Then they interact differently with one-another. What is noticeable here, apart from the "dirty" traces, is the poor amplitude (I am assuming almost fully-wound) in both positions, the difference in amplitude, and the difference in beat. That suggests a lot of different problems to me, which could include dirt, too much end-shake (pallet, balance, escape wheel), too little end-shake (train), bent banking pins (if this movement has them), worn jewels, and no doubt a number of other possibilities. I would strip down the escapement, reclean and check all the parts for contamination and wear. When you have the balance and pallet out, check the train is running freely. Let us know what you find.
  13. A bargain and a great result. Well worth the effort. Many thanks for putting the tutorial together.
  14. Welcome Rob. Maybe you can teach us a thing or two.
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