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Klassiker

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Klassiker last won the day on November 21 2020

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About Klassiker

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  1. Hello and welcome to the forum. I don't want to appear unfriendly, but it's appreciated If you introduce yourself first, and then post in the correct section. You need to identify the movement. There will likely be a number and a trademark symbol to be found somewhere, usually under the balance.
  2. In watchmaking terms, 0.2mm is more than a smidge. That is roughly how much breaks off the pivot. If that is a photo of your balance however, both appear intact. The upper one (right) appears slightly bent. Even a cheap caliper should easily be that accurate, unless it is in bad condition. You might want to check it against a known reference (e.g. bright bar diameter) to be sure. Looking at your original video again, even with no pressure on the cock, the balance isn't turning freely. You can see how quickly and abruptly it comes to a stop. You say you eliminated contamination, and the pa
  3. A time is gonna come when I will be following this to the letter! (including the beer)
  4. Welcome to the forum. You already have! (Hampden 18s)
  5. According to Mikrolisk, Rotherham & Son Ltd. London and Coventry
  6. When you did this check, did the tips of the pivots protrude from the hole jewels?
  7. Well done! Most likely not a case screw through, and now missing from its proper place in the movement.
  8. Like the OP, everything I've read advises against oiling, so I never do. I'd be interested to read references which recommend oiling, and arguments for and against. My guess is (and it is a guess, because I haven't compared with / without) is that the contact phase is a small sliding action under very low pressure with a little bit of rolling (so hardly any friction to be reduced) followed by a sudden separation of the surfaces in a more-or-less perpendicular direction. Even oils with a low viscosity will cause some drag in this case, due to surface tension, like when you pull an oiler out of
  9. I suspect you are missing some kind of clip, like the c-shaped circlip Seiko use. Are there any tell-tale signs of wear on the upper face of the date disc, where such a clip would rub? Other than that, maybe try assembly with the date-change pawl engaged with the teeth as well as the spring. Maybe that will give you enough stability to get the dial washer and dial in place.
  10. I have used my wife's stained glass grinder in the past. Just a cheap machine, but easy to use. It takes a while to get the perfect profile with a nice even chamfer and chip-free edges, but for a one-off part, that's how I would do it.
  11. It depends which crown suits your taste or the case better. Chances are, you will have to remove the crown anyway, to shorten the stem.
  12. The dial feet at least are damaged. Maybe other parts too. Overdue for a service. Take it to a watchmaker (as opposed to a jeweler who sells Rolex) who has the tools to open it up and do a proper diagnosis then give you a quote for the work. You are fortunate to be in a big city where such a business shouldn't be hard to find. A quick search turned up this one which fits the bill: http://whittleswatchworks.com
  13. Welcome Ahmet. I am always grateful when professionals take time to help us amateurs.
  14. I shop with them from time to time and never had any problems.
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