Watch Case Tools - Glass Fitting/Removal - Case Opening/Closing
Discussing tools in relation to the watch case including glass fitting and removal, opening and closing of watch cases, crowns/pendant tubes/pushers etc...
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By HectorLooi · Posted
When I graduated from dental school, one of my mentor's parting words, which was taken from Dirty Harry, was, "A man's got to know his limitations." This advice has stay with me throughout my career. Although I was certified to practice Implantology and Orthodontics, I have always referred my cases to more experienced colleagues. Just because you have taken a few online courses and watched a lot of YouTube videos, that doesn't make you a watchmaker. There is so much to learn in watchmaking. The more you learn, the more you realise you don't know. My advice to budding hobby watchmakers is to start small. Change batteries, watch straps, crystals, polish some cases and bracelets. Find an experienced watchmaker to be your mentor. In case you mess something up, he's there to bail you out. When you think you've arrived at a milestone in watchmaking, go get a Mumbai special and fix that. That will bring you back down to Earth. In the meantime, learn all you can and practice. -
Looks exactly the same as the one from my National Electric watch cleaner. Can't help exactly but the max resistance on mine is approx 2500 ohm, let me know if you'd like me to try measure something else. -
Oh, this is great. Can you post a link to the thread? I hope there are some reference times to compare (and how much it depends on the beat rate of the balance/movement). While I think this is definitely superior to the blower, I was thinking that the risk of hitting the outside of the fork with the roller isn't actually there --- I only do this test without the pallet fork installed. Well... I think that was a bit harsh. First, if you really look at what I am doing there, I hope you'll realize that it's actually no real risk. The Robur ensures that the Rolex-specific wrench stays tightly on the serrations of the caseback to eliminate the risk of slipping and damaging the serrations. The wrench with Rolex-style dye and the dye on the caseback (with plastic protection) exert no more pressure or stress on the case than during a crystal change. Yes, the pliers look terrible, I'll admit that! But I only use them to hold the watch steady between the lugs -- no real pressure here and with plastic protection again (if I had felt strong forces on the plier, I'd have stopped). Then I gently turned the wrench as it was held in place by the Robur. It worked like a charm. Not a single scratch. Second, you don't know the arrangement I have with my friend. And I will not get into that. But, trust me, if I made any serious mistake, I'd not hesitate and pay whatever damage from my own pocket. -
By nevenbekriev · Posted
The tweezers are useless steinless antimagnetic swiss made nonsense, the pin is guitar string (pivot wire), I have drilled the holes and inserted the pin and formed the tips. Yes, I use the rubber on the handle instead of wood. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Not the answer I was looking for but probably the answer I needed.
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