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HectorLooi

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  1. Thanks for the link. I'll try straightening the teeth 1st. If that doesn't work, I'll get the movement from Ukraine as my going barrel also has worn teeth. I don't think my movement is a recent one. There appears to be a lot of wear. When I got the clock, the insides were drenched with a very thick oil. The trapped dirt did a lot of damage to the gear train.
  2. A friend gave me this clock. I didn't ask him where he got it from. It was a very badly put together frankenclock. The original hinge of the brass casing was broken. An old cupboard hinge was used as a replacement. I don't think the case belongs to a Smith Enfield either. The hands are also a mismatch. The bottom jewel of the escape wheel was also missing. The repairer put a blob of acrylic glue over the jewel seat and reamed a hole for the pivot. Managed to pass it off as an old clock that needed oiling. I replaced the entire escapement platform as it was probably cheaper than trying to get a repacement jewel.
  3. Yes. You are right OH. The platform loosened or I forgot to tighten the screws fully after adjusting the platform. I noticed the second hand jittering only a few days ago. This is cause by excessive freeplay when the platform moved away. 20200407_172111.mp4
  4. I also didn't believe that there was enough force to bend teeth. But it happened. I've also seen the brass teeth of an escape wheel wear away hardened steel pallets. Clock repair is similar but so different from watch repair.
  5. Thanks everyone. I'll try making a chisel-like tool to known the teeth back into shape 1st. If that doesn't work then I'll try filing. Last resort, I found a seller in Ukraine than has spare movement minus the escapement platform.
  6. I just took apart my Russian Navy clock for cleaning and to check why it was so loud. I discovered that the escapement platform had loosened and the meshing of the teeth of the 5th wheel to the pinion of the escape wheel had drifted. This resulted in damage to the 5th wheel. Can I fix this by filing the teeth with a needle file? I don't know if there are replacement parts available for these clocks.
  7. Further thoughts on lighter fluid. The stuff is so cheap that I don't think the manufacturers are putting any extra stuff in it. But you can conduct an easy test to see if the stuff you have is pure. Just put a drop of it on a clean piece of glass and let it evaporate. If it leaves any marks on the glass, it probably has other stuff in it. I use Ronsonol and Zippo. The cell phone repair shops here use it as the final clean before sticking on a screen protector. So I think it should be quite pure.
  8. Shellac is completely safe in lighter fluid. Isopropyl alcohol is a solvent for shellac. Probably safe if you dip it in for a few seconds and dry it off. But don't leave it in for long periods. Certain ultrasonic cleaning solutions can also dissolve shellac. Especially those that contain ammonium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide. I can testify to that.
  9. I encountered this problem once. Then I learnt from 1 of Mark's videos that it can happen if you mix up the upper and lower incablocs. I had taken out both incablocs and cleaned them in lighter fluid. I assumed that cap stone, jewel hole and upper/lower position shouldn't matter. Well, it seems that it does. I had to go through a few combinations/permutations of cap stone, jewel hole and position before it would work properly. Weird.
  10. I have a question about Timex electric watches. How do we adjust the beat error? They are not like pallet escapement watches where one can centre the impulse jewel between the banking pins.
  11. I have a Frankenstein version of this clock. Someone put this Vostok movement into an English style brass casing and slapped on a Smiths clock face. It had me stumped for awhile. Couldn't figure out what movement it was. I checked all internet photos for the trademark on the plates. Finally found out it was a Russian navy clock. Supposed to be used in their submarines. It seems it was 1st made in 1948. I think they are still in production. It's pretty accurate but really noisy. I'm sure you could locate the sub by the noise this clock makes with modern hydrophones.
  12. From pictures I've seen, I think you have to open the front cover and loosen 3 screws. This will separate clock from its base. Base is screw to wall with 4 screws.
  13. It's incredible that Cousins continues to operate as usual during this period. Even Esslinger has announced it's closure till the second week of April.
  14. I believe something is touching the hairspring. Could you take a slow motion video of the balance and hairspring in motion?
  15. Yes. I got one of those phone holders that clamp onto the eyepiece. Not very user friendly. I had this scope for several years. Didn't think I would take photos at that time, so I didn't get the trinocular version.
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