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HectorLooi

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HectorLooi last won the day on August 14 2020

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About HectorLooi

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  1. I think you got the 4th wheel upside down. If you look at the original photo you posted, the wheel should be the other way round.
  2. I love Timexes! It must have desiged to be an insult to the Swiss watch industry. It's a real paradox. It's so simple yet so complicated. Anyone who is trained as a watchmaker would find them frustrating. Some are really ugly, some are simply elegant. Just look at their dials. Even after 50 years, some still look as good as the day it left the factory. And they are all held on by 4 metal tabs folded over the bottom plate. Many of them have really taken a beating but just keep on ticking. They may look like crap on a timegrapher but would still keep good time. They are
  3. I'm no Timex wizard but I have done enough of them to understand your suffering. I usually remove the v conic screw completely, tilt the balance and get the pivot into the hole. The ease it through the hole as far as it can go, then there should be enough space to get the other pivot into the v conic cup. Remember to oil the cup first. Then put a drop of oil into the cup of the brass screw and turn it down slowly over the other pivot. Now adjust the endshake until you have minimal sideshake. Avoid over tightening it as the pivot can be damaged. Getting the hairspring into the h
  4. I finally managed to pry it off. I had to use a fat stubby screwdriver because the groove is so wide.
  5. Recently there has been a lot of talk of how to remove rust. Vinegar, Coke, phosphoric acid, Evaporust.... Just to add my two cents worth. I have a date ring and day wheel from a Timex electric that had a bad battery leak until it's non salvageable. There was a lot of rust stains on them. I used dental etching acid which contains 35% phosphoric acid. I left it for about 30 mins, gave a light scrub and repeated. Here are the results.
  6. I'm restoring a Fossil FS 4877 quartz chronograph. It is one of the 404 club watches which I got from ebay. The movement appears to be working fine but the watch crystal is badly scratched. I'm trying to remove the crystal to measure it for a replacement. The movement appears to be a front loader but I can't seem to remove the bezel. There is a very wide groove under the rim of the bezel. This makes inserting a razor blade or using one of the bezel removers impossible. I've tried putting a screwdriver blade in the groove and twisting it to pry the bezel off, but nothing seems to budge.
  7. Really. Singapore stopped years ago. Too many people found him too controversial.
  8. That reminded me of the show "Whose line is it anyway?" I caught a few segments of it on TikTok. Brought back some old memories. Anyone remembers "The Benny Hill Show"? I'm sure the members from UK would!
  9. You can get the cheap China made hand levers then slowly thin down the edge to a knife edge with a smooth oil stone. That is what I'm using at the moment. Another technique used is to insert a large oiler into the collet slot and twist it and screw it off the balance staff.
  10. Try putting a blob of rosin flux on the existing solder and quickly melt it with the tip of your soldering iron. It's best if you have a temperature controlled iron set to 225 - 250 °C. Make sure the tip is clean and well wetted with solder. Don't overheat it or the plastic may distort. If the old solder does not melt and give a nice shiny joint, you will have to remove it with a solder sucker and use fresh solder. I prefer using the old stuff that contains lead. (60% Tin : 40% Lead) I simply hate lead free solder. Good luck.
  11. That's really strange. Solder joints usually fail when they are subjected to movement, strain or thermocycling. This joint shouldn't have experienced any of that. Could you get a really high magnification photo of the joint?
  12. So far I've only seen them in blue and green. I'm not sure if the color has any significance. But I have seen three variants of the contact wire. The normal blue one. Then the green one with a plastic extension that supports the contact wire somewhere midway along its length. And finally the one for the Q quart which has a break in the middle to connect to the quartz oscillator circuit. I've never seen a contact wire fail at the solder joint. Usually it fails due to metal fatigue. Just an update on the contact wires that I've been trying to make. The one made from the old main
  13. Silly old me put the winding ratchet upside down. I checked it with my 12x loupe and the teeth look worn but still acceptable (like the choppers of many of my older patients). I flipped it around and it seems ok now. I didn't take note of the orientation of the wheel when removing it. But when I examined it, I noted that one side had a groove where the rim of the brass washer sits, so I assumed that it must have been caused by wear. So it placed that side facing up. But now when I think about it, it can't be caused by wear because there is no movement between the wheel and the washer. I w
  14. Removing the washer is easy. Use a sharp, pointed instrument to gently lift the corner of the washer that is in the slot, then using a tweezer in your other hand to engage one of the cutout notches and rotate it 90° till it unlocks and it will pop off. Putting it back is just the reverse. But a whole lot trickier.
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