Regulation, Watch Performance and Timing Machine (Timegrapher) Readings/Results
Discuss general regulation techniques, watch performance issues and your timing machine readings (traces).
Balance Wheel Adjustment, Hairspring Adjustment, Regulating Watches, Setting Watches in Beat, Lift Angle
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weird stop-and-go timegrapher readings after balance staff change and pallet stone refitting -- Vostok 2414 1 2 3
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We've all done it Chris. The pivot looked bent anyway, so you would have needed to change it - I have heard rumours of people straightening pivots, but some have also claimed to have seen unicorns 🤣 If you search Ebay for 'balance complete eta 1260' you will find some. Make sure you get the non-Incabloc version -
Are there any areas on the case where there is still what looks like plating? It just looks like solid tarnished metal from what I can see. If it was plated, it would still be intact between the lugs, and it doesn't look any different to the sides. It's odd that the bezel is a different colour. I would just try to polish it, and see how it comes out. Plating is not that difficult - though it is a bit of an art to get perfect results. Power supplies are not expensive, about the same as the chemicals you would need. I copper plate first, as it sticks to most metals, fills defects and forms a good base layer for whatever you plate on top - nickel in my case. As @praezis suggests, if you want it plating, take it to a plating company for advice.
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Looking at the photos I'd say it was an underlay crystal and the bezel will need to come off. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
A bergeon one would be about the best money can buy. I'm not sure how much they are now for a new one. But they pop up on ebay from time to time for about 50 quid, you want the small adjustable platform as well that sets up the spacing on the crystal to leave room on it when fitting it bsck into the case bezel. -
An inexpensive generic crystal lift, under $20 on Esslinger.com, is fine to remove the crystal on a vintage watch and fine to reinsert one. If you start working on more valuable watches, getting a better crystal lift might be necessary since these cheaper ones can be a little rough in the jaws. If you are not careful it is easier to scratch a crystal with these than with a $120 version. The other difference is in how smooth the screw action is on the more expensive Swiss one. It does take some practice no matter what to install a crystal with this tool, and you can expect to not get your first one or two right without some scratches when installing. But if @caseback is right and this is a 2 piece case, then it opens up other better options to install a new crystal with a press of some sort instead.
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