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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    margolisd

    Laser Printed Decal

    I've been working on this for a while. My wife's due to give birth any day now and this is what I'm going to give her after the baby is born. This is my first attempt at restoring a dial. HSL was kind enough to send me a spare one to practice on. Which I did, and it ended up being the final one I used. What was also interesting, I attempted Mark's laser printed logo method.Which worked surprisingly well. The edges of the print aren't quite as sharp as the original. But you would have to have a very expert eye to tell the difference. I think with a very high DPI laser printer you could get this more or less perfect.
  2. 3 points
    I would like to see some phots first of the movement including the balance before I comment further. There is a screw called a “stop-up” screw, which was built into the model 21 chronometer by Hamilton. This screw was used to block the train wheels for transport. This screw was often removed during service. Does yours still have it?
  3. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Your very first watch ?

    I have a similar one but with a cowboy! Somewhere I have a cowgirl too. It is indeed the pallet fork that gives the motion. My first watch was a Frogger watch, followed by a first gen G Shock. Then a quartz Seiko diver, and finally got an Omega automatic just before I went to watchmaking school. I didn't want to show up with a quartz.
  4. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Re-pivoting a clock wheels.

    The Rollimat is a wonderful tool and more than pays for itself in a few months in a professional situation. It uses the same carbide burnishing wheel as industrial machines that finishes clock (and watch) pivots in the factory. Totally an "auto jacot" tool. That guy has a good technique there, and agree with OH it can be done with simpler tools. I know a number of clock and watchmakers though who have the "tool bug" and enjoy finding and using machines most regular shops would find overkill. In some cases they do save time but not necessarily do a better job; part of the fun is just using them.
  5. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Re-pivoting a clock wheels.

    It is quite easy when you know how. You can use this method for most wheels, on smaller lathes. Similar to how I was trained.
  6. 2 points
    Hi all, Brian Young here. I am not a watch or clock repairer. I came to this website to hopefully gain some insight to watches and watch repair. I recently inherited a pocket watch from my mother; it was her father's Illinois pocket watch made in 1911. I no sooner got it home when I dropped it onto the tile kitchen floor. As you might expect, it no longer works. It lasted 108 years before me and one week after me. I hope you all don't mind if I glom on to your site and pick your brains for info. In the last month, I have purchased two early 1900's Illinois pocket watches, both running, and can't bring myself to cannibalize them in order to get Grandpa's watch running again. So, now I own three pocket watches, two from 1905, running, and one from 1911, needing a balance stem. Hope I haven't broken protocol by talking about the reason why I am here in the introduction post. If so, sorry. I'm not really a rebel. I'm just clueless. Thank you for having me.
  7. 2 points
    david

    tools for newbs?

    Trigus, Watchmaker screwdriver shafts are skinny for a reason. It is to reduce the force transmitted from your fingers and thumb to the screwdriver tip. The screws used in watches are very tiny and can be easily overpowered and broken.. Trying to use a pin vice could present problems from applying too much torque to the screw, twisting it in half. Breaking a screw off in a watch plate can be a disastrous problem as you may not be able to get the broken piece of screw out of the plate. Most inexpensive watch screwdrivers are usable, especially when starting out. You can start out with a less expensive set and upgrade at a later time.
  8. 2 points
    CaptCalvin

    seiko question

    I have separated the HS from balance on these a few times. Side note these almost never come out of the box properly centered as you can see in the first pic out of a freshly bought movement.
  9. 2 points
    balaton

    Watch of Today

    37.5mm Swiss-made Stuag, wears very flat and runs on a 17j ETA 900. Probably late ‘40s. Attributed to one of the few female (is that term still allowed these days?) -led watch manufacturers, Mlle Mireille Grebler (later Mme Mireille Franz-Grebler) who also came to control Cauny, before that particular brand became Spanish owned sometime in the 1970s. Regards.
  10. 1 point
    watchweasol

    Your very first watch ?

    First watch was a Kered from Shepherds of the shambles in York, alas no longer in business. The plus side is I still have the watch it was a 21st birthday pressie, and even better it still ticks 54 years later although the dial has a water mark , I even wore it playing cricket for 12 years.
  11. 1 point
    That is a lovely looking watch and it’s radio controlled which I’m guessing means if you can’t find it you just grab the controls and it comes to you...... I’ll get my coat
  12. 1 point
    Citizen Blue Angle EcoDrive Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Your very first watch ?

    Mine was a boys Ingersoll wrist watch. I haven't a clue how old I would have been.
  14. 1 point
    GeorgeC

    Making the micro regulator adjustments

    Great thought. To prevent any marks from a tool such as a metal screwdriver, I could fashion a plastic pixie stick or a piece of peg-wood to a flat end and give that a slight twist for control. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    Johnnie

    Please allow me to introduce myself...

    Hi Brian and welcome to the asylum, I am sure you will fit in well firstly you cannot have enough watches! Secondly, if you hadn't thrown grandpa's watch on the floor you wouldn't have found this brilliant forum. Thirdly, every thing can be fixed, and this forum has some very knowledgeable guy's and girl's who are happy to give you advice without making you feel stupid for asking, (I am most definitely not one of those knowledgeable people) the only good advice I give people is to look both ways when crossing the road. Anyway enjoy the forum and I wish you every success in repairing grandpa's pocket watch.
  16. 1 point
    Johnnie

    Watch of Today

    Fero ??? Have just bought this because I like the face ! Never heard of this watch and it is a none runner. Any information would be much appreciated. Cost £28.54 Inc postage so wasn't too painful. Not sure if it's franken or worth its price?
  17. 1 point
    I have recently purchased a National, Electric Watch Cleaning Machine. Attached is a photo for reference and identification of the model type. As can be seen, it has a fairly typical design, reminiscent of many other types, particularly Elma Super Elite. In fact, I do wonder which came first - the National or the Elma. My musings on this point later. This is a very old machine, circa late 1940’s, 1950’s, but they seem to turn up sometimes on eBay, in various conditions ranging from the “beyond hope” and only really suitable as a donor for parts, and the “old but serviceable” and might-be-worth-a-punt-on machines. This one fell into the middle somewhere, as it was a bit tatty and the heating element did not work. On the plus side, it had all its original cleaning fluid jars and lids, and the motor and speed control gave smooth, controllable spinning and no play in the bearings. I went to visit the seller to inspect it and we did a deal on the spot. This is not always possible on eBay, but as the seller had listed it as for collection only (due to its weight), it was a possibility on this occasion. Once I had it home and gave it the once over, I decided that I would have to either do without heating for the drying stage, or find a replacement element. At the same time, it was very obvious that all of the original cabling was not safe to leave in place and it would all have to be removed and replaced. Any other electrical parts deemed unsafe would also be replaced as I inspected them. So - the idea of a restoration (of sorts) was born. Now - it is not my intention to restore it to the point where it could pass current electrical safety standards, but I will be making it as safe as possible, without losing any of the essential character of the original machine. This is not going to be for resale, so being safe to use is an acceptable compromise, in my opinion. I will however, perform testing on it once the electrical work is done, to make sure that the essential aspects of earth leakage, earth bonds and polarity etc. are passed. (PAT Testing included.) Whilst this is not likely to turn into another example of a superb restoration of an Elma Super Elite (as seen elsewhere on these forums), I hope at least to have at the end of it, a perfectly serviceable watch cleaning machine, and a restoration story - of sorts - of a vintage piece of English watch making and servicing machinery. So first off - the before pictures. This one is a good view of the machine and its cosmetic condition, as purchased. The base is a heavy, cast alloy jobbie, with its original crackle paint job beginning to flake away in places, where the years of cleaning chemicals have attacked it, but generally sound. The jars still had residues of cleaning and rinse chemicals present. The first wash jar (front left), was particularly grotty and can’t have been cleaned for years. Fairly ironic not to clean the thing, that cleans the things! Maybe it was just left unused and unloved for many years. The mains cable was a cloth-bound type I have not seen in years and could well have been original as it still had the old UK wiring standard colours of red/black/green. Also adding to the vintage-ness, was a very old, Bakelite three pin plug. This must have been one of the first of its type as I have not seen one in brown Bakelite before! (And I am 62...) Anyway, that’s enough for now, as I’m not even sure anyone wants to read much about such an old machine. If anyone is interested though, please add comments and I’ll add to the story as I make progress. At the very least, I hope I have found a potential solution to finding/ making your own heating elements for these old machines, which could also include providing replacements for Elma Super Elite, RM80/90 HCS511 etc. Machines. More details later...
  18. 1 point
    TheFixer

    Practice with shock spring

    Had a bit of practice fitting a shock spring which was fun, and ended up making a little tool to fit it back into the movement. Anyone know what the spring is called, movement is a Seiko 7S26. Many thanks from Jon
  19. 1 point
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    Yesterday's eBay deliveries. A nice pin pallet that's the cleanest I've ever seen, came with the pallet fork loose, refitted and ticking away, will get a service and back onto eBay at some point. Then an 'interesting' Seiko franken. Lovely clean 7019A movement, (which was the reason for the purchase) bonus of new strap, practise dial to strip and make a dial from and hands.
  20. 1 point
    vinn3

    Pocket watch stem clasp issue

    if you can buy (locate) a new mvt., it would a good project. vin
  21. 1 point
    A "close up" sir? Thought I would just give a close up after I had made some checks to see how much fluid was the correct amount for these jars, as they were unmarked and came with no instructions. The Elma instructions indicate that the correct level of fluid should be around 1cm above the "suction blade" where the basket is attached. Also that when in use, the suction blades should not become visible, otherwise too much suction will be caused and may result in excessive foam being created. So I thought I would try to capture this to show what the correct levels and speeds look like. This was done just using plain water. Firstly with the correct level established. In these National Jars this volume is 750 ml. This is about 75% full. Then rotation at the correct speed, move to too fast and then back down to nominal again. The action of the "wave breakers" can also be seen in these shots. IMG_1574.m4v
  22. 1 point
    A video maybe... (if my upload works) It's not often these machines turn up, and less often they turn up working, so I feel justified. No commentary, just the noise of the machine itself. Dunno how it will sound to you, but right in front of me, its nice a quiet and completely unobtrusive. I start from switched off, turn it on, advance the control to what I think is likely to be normal for use in liquids. Finally turning off. Sorry - Francis Ford Coppola I'm not! IMG_1572.m4v
  23. 1 point
    I think you'll find there are polarising views on the necessity of PAT testing for home use. Apologies, i'll get my coat. Looking very nice and neat, looking forward to the first test run, will you be doing a video? Also, PAT testing, it's one of those bugbear acronyms like PIN number, because, the T already stands for testing, yet we all do it, so we're saying portable appliance testing testing............(I suppose that applies acceptably to musical equipment, especially microphones?)
  24. 1 point
    Do not grease the mainspring or the oil the chain. The oil you need is Windles clock oil. After you have cleaned the chain a few drops of oil on a clean rag, run it through the rag. You can use the oil for the mainspring. A watch oil for the balance.
  25. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Lorus - what sort of plastic glue

    The plastic could be anything from ABS through glass reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, PLA, polystyrene, epoxy.. you name it.. so figuring out the correct solvent is tricky. Nail polish *may* work, but equally it may not. Superglue may appear to work, but fail shortly after. You might also have luck with a mix of superglue and baking powder, which rapidly sets up hard as a rock. It dries as an off white to clear resin though, so you would need to paint it to hide the repair. Test it on some similar plastics first to get the hang of using it. Also be aware that some materials react in a very exothermic way with cynoacrylate (superglue). Cotton wool for example may actually catch fire. An interesting party trick, but not much fun when you spill it on your frayed jeans. You could try a repair with black epoxy resin, having keyed the surfaces with sandpaper first, but in my experience it is very tricky to get a neat, but robust, lasting repair of small plastic items, since plastics are generally difficult to stick anything to reliably.
  26. 1 point
    nad

    roamer quartz

    Cousins are showing that they have a male inner stem for the 955.412 in stock. Length is 9.79mm. ETA956101964 (Disregard the "Swiss Part Description" filter and just search by caliber and scroll through the result set, it will be towards the end of the list.) Bit confused though as the Ranfft site shows that both the 955.412 and 555.412 as having the same stem reference. Probably best to measure the original split stem and check that the ends of both stems that you have actually match. Hope that this is of some use to you. Nigel Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    jdm

    seiko question

    Not really. The end stud is glued and the spring very delicate, attempts to mess with it most likely ends badly. The balance assembly is sold as "complete" only for good reasons, its construction does not allow in practice to take apart staff, roller jewel, stud and without damage, and put them back with precision, as you can read reported above. That you use an A balance, or B/C one replacing the balance cock also. I have seen -but not tried- non-original balances on Ebay going for very little. If you want to try anyway for practice I can send you parts for free but with a bad hairspring.
  28. 1 point
    Fitz

    New to Group

    Hello all, Imnew to the group, been collecting for only a short time. saw Marks youtube vids, and gave a crack at the basic course. I've retired from the open heart team and very used to working with loops on mm objects. This subject of watchmaking has always interested me, but family and work always to precedence.
  29. 1 point
    So, finally, the trigger has been pulled! After many considerations, I decided to order a brand new Bergeon 5500. You can see it here. Shipping included I paid £128/€144/$162. Not a bargain, but reasonable, I guess. I saw some definitive advantages: * Well tested professional tool. Meaning there's a good chance it will work and work well. * I can shop individual Bergeon dies for various needs as I go (silly expensive, as always), or shop a good quality Aliexpress set. * Shipping within Europe so it should be here within a couple of weeks rather than a couple of months (China). * Seller has 99.9% positive feedback ("Top-rated seller/eBay Money Back Guarantee). I'll let you know what I think when I've tried it! Finally, a big thank you to all of you sharing your experience, knowledge, and opinions in this thread! This is what makes WRT such a great place to be.
  30. 1 point
    Has anyone ever used Longines free service to get an extract from their archives on their watch? https://www.longines.com/certificate-of-authenticity See the above link, if you just want the extract they will post it to you for free, obviously if you want a certificate of Authenticity you need to send them your watch and pay for that, but the extract is free. I'm going to ask for the extract on my 30LS Longines.
  31. 1 point
    I think now these are for Rolex indeed. Few sizes, some very close to the next, including a 31.2mm
  32. 1 point
    matabog

    Mig 21 Chronograph

    bbb8-bloc_final.scad please check the dimensions again! DO A TEST PRINT FIRST (to see if the watch fits)! install the font in the code
  33. 1 point
    I have found this on ebay. The same tool you are thinking of buying for a hell of lot less money. What I do not like is other stuff at his shop looks like rubbish https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crystal-Glass-Case-Back-Fitting-Tool-Wheel-Type-35-Dies-Watch-Repairs-Pressing/192911532678?hash=item2cea6c6286:g:EfoAAOSw-QBcVz4V
  34. 1 point
    This is a good buy. Strong and sturdy, spring action. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/press-die-set-swiss-style
  35. 1 point
    I must add, one exception is Cousins UK. They know the in and out of all they sell. Today I asked about three variations of a balance complete and they updated the website in an hour.
  36. 1 point
    He means that rotates relative to the spindle. If you pay attention in your picture you see the upper die support being a bit tilted one side, that is because it's free to move, as it couldn't be otherwise. It's pointless to push sellers for much technical data, they are sellers not watchmakers. Once again I suggest that you go for the other type, the price in the 1st link you included is robbery and the design is, after all, outdated.
  37. 1 point
    Installation of the PWM Controller. This needed two new mounting holes to be drilled in the main base of the watch machine, the old rheostat fixing points being way too far away to be useful. Thankfully - and by one of those happy coincidences that just make your day, when they happen - two new fixing holes could be drilled and they would be hidden by the old control knob when it was in place. Happy Days! As can be seen in the photos below, the new controller occupies far less space and, just by itself, is a much safer solution than the original. I also hope that motor speed control will be far smoother than with the original. I will still make up an internal cover of sorts, just because I can, and I because am minded to. I cleaned up the old Bakelite knob a little and ran a little silver paint into the arrow head engraving, to brighten it up. And, as can be seen, the two new mounting holes for the PWM controller are hidden by the knob. Result! Finally, I replaced the original mounting screws for the old controller, so I did not have holes left on the dial. I think this is the best compromise I could have arrived at, as at least from the outside, the old machine looks to be still original and nothing visibly takes away from its undoubted age. After all - I am dealing with something likely to be over 75 years old and I was trying to take nothing away from that. That's it for the base unit - so all that remains is to remount the motor etc. to the base and rewire it all. The jars have been cleaned, I have fitted new rubber seals to the jar lids - I decided against cork as although likely to have been more original - I also had some nitrile rubber sheet to hand and used that instead. I can always refit this with cork later, if I find out for sure these old National machines used cork. Nothing "build related" for a couple days as I have other work to do, but hoping to get it finished at the weekend. Maybe a short testing video sometime after that. Thanks for reading.
  38. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    I see it says "T Swiss - LIC ATO" The ATO patented movement is about as simple as these things get. At its most basic, it only uses one transistor. This may not make for the most stable oscillator, design but in this use case, they are actually relatively good, since they rely on a fairly conventional mechanical balance to control the oscillator frequency, rather than an R/C circuit, which would typically be less stable over the working temperature range. (schematic shamelessly stolen from https://www.bmumford.com/tmp/ATOschematic.gif ) This AC125 germanium transistor version is probably the most simplified schematic, but often in reality there are current limiting resistors and other little tweaks. Since they have no mechanical switched contacts, they don't suffer from burn through or oxidation failures of the contact.
  39. 1 point
    With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements. The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit. Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.
  40. 1 point
    Somewhere on this forum, a kind colleague of ours, posted pictures with the tool disassembled. I can't find the thread but I saved the pictures. Here is on of them:
  41. 1 point
    RyMoeller

    1002 DIAL ... advices needed for cleaning

    The dial looks good for it's age. From my experience there is really much that can be done to improve the look of a vintage dial. Often what appears to be dirt is instead oxidation and cannot be removed without changing the appearance of the dial. I would stick to using Rodico and Q-Tips dipped in distilled water. If you do anything, be very careful and work very slow. Keep in mind the printing on the dial is often placed on top of the lacquer and it's the first to go when "cleaning" is attempted.
  42. 1 point
    Can't wait to add this beauty to my DS collection that will arrive from Germany in next week i hope!
  43. 1 point
    Eyes.. plural? Surely you just need one large eye for a loupe like that.
  44. 1 point
    Here's my results so far. I needed to make a jig to even out the finish on the crown and ratchet wheel as I was getting a really nice matte finish in the center of the wheel but having trouble getting it even all the way to the edge of the teeth. I cut a slightly concave disc out of brash on the lathe and have begun polishing the wheels in the disk. This ensures the edges of the wheel are always in contact with the paste. It's not perfect but it's getting better.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks for this topic @OBRHorology, I just happen to be restoring a chronograph that has matte finishing on some of the steel parts and had suffered water damage. I'm trying to salvage as many parts as possible and was just about to start researching how to achieve a matte finish when you posted! I went out and picked up some Tetrabor immediately. I scored many different grits through a sale on eBay and went to work on it this evening. I'll need a bit of practice but within just a few minutes I had what I consider passable results. Awesome tip. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
  46. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Finished making my watch

    Pretty cool. There is a certain satisfaction in doing stuff like this.thanks for sharing it.
  47. 1 point
    ETA 7750 Service Walkthrough The 7750 was first available in 1974, having been one of the first movements to be designed with the aid of a computer. It's hard to believe that the 7750 is still the industry standard movement for chronographs considering it's history. It was developed over 40 years ago by Valjoux, who was then a legendary movement maker that was part of the giant ASUAG conglomerate. But by the end of 1975 production was stopped due to the onslaught of the Quartz Era, and the 7750, along with many other mechanical calibers, was abandoned. Industry demand for this movement was so low that the stock produced in that 1 year manufacturing lasted until 1982! Such was the devastation of cheap Japanese produced quartz watches to Swiss manufactures. History may have forgotten the 7750 except for the local management at Zenith who ignored the orders by Valjoux to destroy the dies and equipment used to manufacture the 7750, instead hiding the equipment away from corporate eyes. You can find many more fascinating facts about this caliber online, and it's well worth the read. ................................................... This walkthrough will be very detailed, and I hope this will give people the courage to tackle this movement. I've serviced quite a few calibers, and this is one of the most beautiful, with a very logical layout. ETA7750 Tech.PDF If you have built your skills with basic movements, and become proficient in servicing them, I would highly recommend this movement to be your first chronograph to tackle. Lets begin. DEMAGNETIZE THE MOVEMENT BEFORE DISASSEMBLY. Remove the Day Indicator and store it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. Unscrew (0.8 Driver) the Jumper Maintaining Plate and remove it. Do the same for the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate Carefully remove the Jumpers Spring, holding it with a piece of pegwood so it doesn't ping away. Next remove the jumpers for the day and date. The jumpers differ from one another, so here is a reference photo so you can see the difference. Remove the Date Indicator and place it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. The last piece to remove on the Date Platform is the Double Corrector Now unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Date Platform and gentle pry it from the movement. Be careful when removing this plate, as there is a fine spring pressed into the plate that can be easily damaged. Here is a reference photo of the screws that hold the Date Platform. Remove the Hour Hammer Spring, once again using the pegwood to hold the spring while removing the tension. Here is a reference photo of the correct orientation of the spring. Remove the Hour Counter Lock. Remove the Hour Hammer Operating Lever. Next is the Hour Hammer, be careful when removing this item so as not to damage the Hour-Counting Wheel. Now remove the Hour-Counting Wheel. Remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel Remove the Day Star Driving Wheel Then remove the Intermediate Calendar Driving Wheel Remove the Hour Wheel Then the Minute Wheel Remove the Cannon Pinion, which does not require a puller. The last component to be removed on this side of the Main Plate is the Driver Cannon Pinion. To lift the Driver Cannon Pinion I used what Mark used, a set of hand lifter from Horotec (MSA05.007); but you can also use a Presto Tool (30636-1) which will also work well. The dial side of the movement is now complete disassembled. Flip the movement over and unscrew (1.5 Driver) the Oscillating Weight. To remove the Hammer Spring lift it up gently over the automatic work and move it inwards. This will move the tail of the spring in a clockwise motion to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Slide out the Clutch Spring. Here is a reference photo of this spring, and it's orientation. Remove the screws (1.4 Driver) for the Automatic Device Bridge, and gently pry it loose. Here is a reference photo of these screws for the bridge. Once the Automatic Bridge has been removed, the two wheels for the automatic work are able to be removed. Below is a reference photo of how the sit inside the bridge. We now begin to disassemble the chronograph section of this movement. Begin with removing the Hammer, 2 Functions. Next remove the Clutch 60s, 2 Functions. Then remove the Minute-counting Wheel, 30min. Remove the Chronograph Wheel 60s, 30min. Gently lift out the Oscillating Pinion, 60s. Here is a reference photo of the orientation of this pinion. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Chronograph Bridge and gently pry it off the Train Wheel Bridge. Remove the Ratchet Driving Wheel. Remove the Chronograph Wheel Fiction. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Operating Lever, 2 Functions. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Lock, 2 Functions. Next remove the Minute-counter Driving Wheel, 30min. Slide out the Operating Lever Spring, 2 Functions. This spring can be fitting in both directions; but only 1 way is correct. Here is a reference photo of it's correct orientation. Remove the Switch. Here I digress from the order the SwissLab document illustrates the order of removal. They show to remove the Chronograph Cam before removing the Hammer Cam Jumper. This in my opinion is not the best way, as all the force from the jumper is pressing on the cam whilst your trying to remove it, and could lead to damage. Instead I move the Chronograph Cam until it reaches the notch as shown in the photo below. Then lift the Hammer Cam Jumper up to the top of the Chronograph Cam, which will release it's tension. Then, just as you removed the previous hammer, rotate the jumper to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Now you can unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Chronograph Cam safely without tension on it. RELEASE THE MAINSPRING TENSION Once the tension has been released, unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Balance Cock. Then unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Pallet Bridge and remove the bridge and Pallets. Unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Ratchet Wheel. Then remove the Crown Wheel. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Train Wheel Bridge and gently pry it off the Main Plate. Note that one of the screws is under the Operating Lever. This needs to be moved out of the way to access this screw. The last level of this movement contains the train. Here is a reference photo of the wheel locations. Remove the Stop Lever. Remove the Great Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Third Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Second Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Note this has the long lower pivot. Remove the Escape Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Then remove the Barrel. This completes the removal of the train. Flip the movement over so we can complete the disassembly by removing the keyless work. Firstly, release the tension from the Setting Lever Jumper. Then unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Setting Lever Jumper. These are unique screws with pointed ends, and below is a reference photo of them. This will also remove the Intermediate Setting Wheel. Next remove the Setting Wheel Then remove the Yoke. Remove the Setting Lever. Remove the Rocking Bar. Now pull out the Stem. Once the Stem is removed the Winding and Sliding Pinion should fall out of the movement onto your work mat. Disassembly of the 7750 is now complete If you've come this far, congratulation on completing the disassembly. Make sure you pegwood all the jewels and reinstall the Balance back onto the movement for cleaning. Assembly of the movement will be posted as soon as I complete the write-up.
  48. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Demagnetizer Recommendations

    The other thing that is needed when playing with magnets and watches is a way of figuring out if your watch really is magnetized or not. So there's the old-fashioned way with a compass image attached for how to do that. then a link to a free app for your phone from a company that wants to sell a really expensive demagnetizer. https://www.lepsi.ch/watch-demagnetizer/
  49. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Demagnetizer Recommendations

    For anyone that's not sure how there supposed to be using the coil type demagnetizer this is what Omega recommends. Then even though it's in the picture I'm going to quote some text "Demagnetisation according to the three axes x, y and z is necessary when using this type of instrument. Do not release the instrument when the object is inside the tunnel as it could finish up being more magnetised than before." Then you will notice in the fine print a minimum of 50 cm away from the coil before you take your finger off the button and five seconds to get to the 50 cm.
  50. 1 point
    Thanks for the positive feedback guys. Editing the photos and writing up the walkthrough is far more difficult then the service on this movement. :p I had to rebuild the software from scratch on a friends PC today, so that put me a little behind in this service, but I'm back into it now. Parts are in the cleaning machine as I type this up, so the assembly and write-up shouldn't be far off, Lord willing.
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