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  1. 4 points
    clockboy

    Loupes

    Generally the stronger the magnification the shorter the focal length. Therefore you will need various lopes. I have found this article on the web which explains better than I could. PS I also use a microscope for the really close stuff such as hairsprings. BASIC TECHNICAL STUFF: MAGNIFICATION AND WORKING DISTANCE The following applies to simple lenses, including all jewellers loupes. The following does not apply to 'surgeons' magnifiers which are made of two small telescopes. THE 14 INCH RULE Some magnifiers are marked with the magnification, some are marked with the focal length (working distance) in inches. The focal length (working distance) is the ideal distance between the lens and the object, not too close (or the lens won't magnify) and not too far (or the image appears wavy). And if you hold the lens MUCH too far from the object, the image will appear upside down. Most people don't understand 'focal length' and so when they see a '3' (for some reason eyeglasses are often marked like this) they think it means "3X magnification" when it really means "three inch focal length". Matters are made worse by the fact that many manufacturers are 'approximate' in their calculations, you can measure the working distance of a 1" magnifier and find it is nearer to 2". So what is the relationship between focal length (working distance) and magnification? Here is the way I used to calculate it. If you take a 'normal' working distance for reading to be 14", then a 7" magnifier brings you twice as close = 2X magnification. This '14 inch rule" is what I used in my catalogue to calculate magnification up until 2011, and the arithmetic works out like this: 1.5 inch = 9.3X magnification 2 inch = 7X magnification 2½ inch = 5.5X magnification 3 inch = 4.5X magnification 3½ inch = 4X magnification 4 inch = 3.5X magnification 5 inch = 2.8X magnification 6 inch = 2.3X magnification 7 inch = 2X magnification 8 inch = 1.8X magnification 9 inch = 1.5X magnification This '14 inch rule" is the way I used to calculate it; it is also the way our manufacturer of watchmakers eyeglasses calculates it, the numbers convert nicely from inches into more-or-less whole numbers for 'magnification', as you see from the chart above. THE 10 INCH RULE Then I discovered that according to the almighty Wikipedia the 'normal' working distance for a lens is 10 inches. This is rather neat because (as you will see if you read the extra-technical stuff below) 10 inches is about 25cm, and 25cm X4 = 1 meter (near enough), and physicists use 1 meter as the definition of 'standard' focal length (not very practicable as a 'working distance')...but don't worry about that, all you need to know is - the way I calculate magnification now falls in line with the 'official' method you find online, like this: 1 inch = 10X magnification 2 inch = 5X magnification 2½ inch = 4X magnification 3 inch = 3.4X magnification 3½ inch = 2.8X magnification 4 inch = 2.5X magnification 5 inch = 2X magnification 6 inch = 1.7X magnification 7 inch = 1.5X magnification 8 inch = 1.3X magnification 9 inch = 1.1X magnification These numbers aren't as good as the old "14 inch rule". For instance, both a 3½ inch and a 4 inch lens have a magnification of about 3X. And both a 5 inch and a 6 inch lens both have a magnification of about 2X. And I get customers who think I'm being evasive when I describe two eyeglasses as being, "about the same magnification". If you would like to try out different focal lengths and magnifications to see how they convert (using this "10 inch rule"), go to my conversion program, click here (it's an Excel file, so you might have to select OPEN). WHAT DO OPTICIANS AND SCIENTISTS SAY? This entire system of magnification being "how many times bigger than normal" (or "X magnification") mystifies opticians. What is 'normal'? It varies from person to person. For an optician, a lens has a focal length - a number that can be calculated, not a 'magnification' relative to normal'. If you really want a definition of 'normal' you should use the standard distance (focal length) used by physicists: 1 meter. But by this definition you need awfully long arms to hold a 'normal' lens in one hand and a book one meter away in the other hand. Also, the human eye often requires more than 'just a bit of help with magnification'. That is why you go to an optician - because he has spent years studying optics rather than reading an entry in Wikipedia. I am not an optician and my knowledge of the maths of optics is shamefully poor. I will, however, attempt to guide you through the mysteries of magnification in the following few paragraphs. They are a bit technical, so you may prefer to skip them and go straight to 'CONCLUSION'.. ADVANCED TECHNICAL STUFF The following calculations apply to simple lenses, including all jewellers loupes. The following does not apply to 'surgeons' magnifiers, which are made of two small telescopes, or to microscopes. FOCAL LENGTH, DIOPTRES AND MAGNIFICATION "Working distance" is the same as focal length. The focal length is the distance you hold the lens from the object that gives the most magnification and the clearest image; it is also the point at which a distant bright object (e.g. the sun) makes the smallest image (e.g. to make a fire using the sun); it is also the distance at which you can project a bright scene onto a surface (stand in a dimly-lit hallway and project the image of a bright window onto the wall). Try it with any magnifier, the distance from the lens to the object will be the same with each of the above experiments, this is the focal length of the lens. In practical terms we can also describe this as, "the [ideal] working distance." 'Dioptre' is the reciprocal of the focal length. The dioptre is the measurement used by opticians and lens-makers, it is more reliable than defining magnification as "how much larger than normal an item appears". This is because "normal" varies from person to person (there is no rule that says you have to hold a book ten inches from your eyes!). 'Dioptre' is the reciprocal of the focal length. To write this as a formula, call the magnification M (if you prefer you may say P for power rather than M for magnification...but let's keep things simple) and the focal length f (in meters not inches) which gives: M = 1 / f. But this 'magnification' is based on the physicist's 'standard' focal length of 1 meter. If you assume 'normal' working distance for a human holding a magnifier to be a quarter of a meter (about ten inches*) then you must divide by four. The formula for converting dioptre to magnification is therefore M = D / 4. * this is not because there is anything special about 10 inches, merely that it works nicely as a number, because 10 inches is almost 250mm = 0.25m, which is why we divide by four. This is one of two accepted formulae for calculating magnification. The above formula works beautifully for small powerful magnifiers such as jewellers loupes and small readers. For instance, for a magnifier with a focal length of 30mm: 1 / 0.03m / 4 = X8.33 magnification. But this formula is based on two assumptions: a) that the object is held at the 'ideal' distance from the lens (its focal length) to give maximum magnification that the lens is held very close to your eye so that your eyes are focusing into the distance (at infinity). This doesn't work for large lenses with long focal lenses. For instance, if we apply the formula to a large reading magnifier with a focal length of 500mm we get 1 / 0.5m / 4 = X0.5 magnification. Oh dear, that can't be right, it looks as if it reduces rather than magnifies. In a sense, this is true, if you place an object 500mm from the lens and hold the lens against your eye, it won't magnify at all. What you must do is move the object closer than 500mm from the magnifier (the magnification will be less) then move your eye away from the magnifier. Your eyes are no longer looking into the distance (infinity) but are focusing closer. To allow for this there is another accepted formula for calculating magnification: D / 4 + 1. Applying this to our magnifier with a 500mm focal length, we now get 1 / 0.5m / 4 + 1 = magnification X1.5, which is more plausible. All of these figures for 'magnification' are approximate, and there are many reasons for this. Firstly, it depends which formula you use (see above). Secondly, if the result looks clumsy (e.g. a magnification of X8.333) the supplier will round it up or down. Thirdly, how much closer than your 'normal' reading distance an object appears depends on what is 'normal' for you. Fourthly, if you use the "ten inch rule" (see explanation above, and also my magnification calculator) instead of the formula, you get slightly different figures because ten inches isn't exactly 250mm. Fifthly, even when you go to the trouble to measure the focal length and calculate the magnification, you will often find that what is printed on a magnifier is simply wrong. If you think this is all a little confusing, it is. In fact, it's very confusing. For instance, if you place the object too close to the lens (less than its focal distance) the magnification will be less, and if you hold your eye away from the lens, the magnification will appear to be more. One nationally-known company specialising in magnifiers consistently used the first formula, above (D / 4). As a result, most of their magnifications were listed as being less than one, indicating that they made everything appear smaller rather than larger. Then they re-printed their brochure, listing magnifications consistent with the second formula, D / 4 +1. The famous optical company Zeiss produce a standard 10X jewellers loupe with two lenses, they fold out and can be used individually or on top of each other (the two magnifications simply add together). At one time they quoted the magnification of the two lenses as 6.66X + 3.33X = near enough 10X when used together; then it became 6X + 4X = 10X; now they label it 3X + 6X = 9X. I don't believe they have been changing the lenses each time, the slight variations are due to the way they calculate 'magnification' then round the figures up or down. IF YOU WEAR SPECTACLES If you wear spectacles, should you keep them on whilst using a magnifier? When using a large magnifier (e.g. for reading) the answer is: yes. I assume, here, that you need a magnifier because the print / map / mark is exceptionally small and you need that extra help in addition to your spectacles. When using a small magnifier (e.g. a jeweller's loupe or watchmaker's eyeglass): do whichever is the most comfortable, but you must keep the magnifier as close to your eye as possible. The only time you may wish to think about whether to keep your spectacles on or take them off is if you are wearing a magnifier over your head (a binocular headband magnifier), they can be used with or without spectacles, as follows: If you are short-sighted (you have difficulty in seeing far objects, your spectacle lens prescription has a power beginning 'minus' ) you will notice that when using the magnifier without your spectacles the working distance is less than marked on the magnifier. If you are very short-sighted you will also notice that if you don't use a magnifier you can focus on very close objects - you have magnifying eyes for close objects (the only drawback being that you can't focus on far objects). The consequence is that with a binocular magnifier you may choose between two magnifications: one (weaker / further away) when you wear the magnifier over your distance spectacles and one (closer / stronger) when you wear the magnifier without spectacles, whichever you find the most comfortable. If you are long-sighted (you have difficulty in seeing near objects, your spectacle lens prescription has a power beginning "plus") you will notice that when using the magnifier without your spectacles, the working distance is more than stated on the magnifier. If you are very long-sighted you will also notice that a low-power magnifier doesn't actually magnify at all, it merely brings close objects into focus at a 'normal' viewing (e.g. reading) distance, which is exactly what your reading spectacles do: they are low-power magnifiers. The consequence is that with a binocular magnifier you may choose between two magnifications: one (stronger / closer) when you wear the magnifier over your spectacles and one (weaker / further away) when you wear the magnifier without spectacles, whichever you find the most comfortable.
  2. 3 points
    rappeleur

    Guten Tag from Austria!

    Having eagerly watched Mark's videos, it was only a small step to sooner or later join his forum! Although it seems that stripping and reassembling a watch is as easy as the videos are suggesting - a hobbyist like me can only imagine how much practise is behind such skills. This and the great respect for the numerous specific and scientific topics a watchmaker has to cover in his profession made the whole thing very interesting for me. I started to service some of my sticky vintages a few weeks ago. I even managed to put some automatic day-date watches back together recently (and they worked afterwards!) - what a progress As for my language: it is german, but I come from Austria. I really like the english language and therefore I am trying to participate here with all the watch related special expressions (there are thousands) as a training if you will. So please be lenient with my posts, and don't hesitate correcting me. Well lastly, my nick translates roughly into "someone who remembers" (celui qui rappelle) and is somewhat of a pun with my name and the term rhabilleur. Now you know it all Oh not quite: I have a small family, I am self employed, in the middle of life (hopefully) and a lover of books and music, when not working on watches. Looking forward to having a lot of nice conversation here!
  3. 2 points
    Ishima

    Loupes

    For me, personally, I find x12 to be the strongest magnification that has any practical use in a loupe, and absolutely you wouldn't use it for normal work, and then after that, you start entering the realm of wanting a microscope Depending on your preference your 'standard' eyeglass for general work, disassembly/reassembly, will probably want to be between x1.5 on the weak end of the spectrum and x3.5 on the strong side, my standard loupe is the bergeon 3.3x. I also have on my bench at arms reach a x7 I usually switch too when oiling jewels, etc. And a x12 I sometimes use, but come to think of it hardly ever, I'd use that for particularly small jewels or if I needed to inspect something especially closely. I'd also say don't bother buying cheap eyeglasses at the higher end of the magnification, a relatively imprecise cheap lens on a x3 will be much less noticeable than a cheap imprecise lense on a 12x, you need good optics at that power.
  4. 2 points
    dwhite

    ff watch parts

    I was going through a box of watch parts I got a long time ago and found a lot of little plastic packets with paper backing with a logo of a backwards F followed by an F. I thought they might be Felsa but I looked it up and couldn't find a match to that logo. Does anyone know what it represents? Also, I found a few dozen complete balances. Some gave movement numbers but others had a strange specification that I don't understand. I'll post about those tomorrow in hopes someone can enlighten me. They are in my shop in an outbuilding and nobody goes out after dark on my property. Too many striped kitties.
  5. 2 points
    MrRoundel

    Do you recognize this tool?

    It's a combination tool, used to clamp around roller-table to heat up and flow shellac around the roller jewel. The roller-table clamps on the short side while the long end (wing) is heated over a flame. Cheers.
  6. 2 points
    dwhite

    RPMs for Lathe Work

    On second thought, I withdraw my recommendation for using a copper plate for a lap. I went online to see if I could buy one and was horrified at the price. One square foot of 1/8" copper was about two hundred bucks! And I checked several sites. What's up with that? I looked up the scrap price for copper and it's in the 2.75 range. This plate weighed a little over 5 pounds so it shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks.
  7. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Omega 551 MS?

    According to the GR catalogue, both the 550 and 551 use the same MS, see page 10 of this link. https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/7810_GR Pages 141 - 150.pdf
  8. 2 points
    There is a tool/s specifically for this spring but I made one out of a piece of peg wood. A hole drilled into the centre of the peg wood and three groves filed (i used a screw slotting file) for the prongs. Then just sit it on top of the spring and twist. If you do not have these tools just use fine tweezers to twist but have a piece of peg wood over the spring to catch the flyer.
  9. 2 points
    There will be an equivalent movement for sure you might have to take measurements or a internet search. Whether it is worth doing is up to you, personally I would not bother as it is not even a good copy of the genuine.
  10. 2 points
    anilv

    Watch of Today

    This doesn't get much wrist time but when I do it feels so right! On this one the inner bezel still moves. 6139-6002 from June '75. Anilv
  11. 2 points
    vinn3

    Uploading Images To The Forum

    ill give it a try. vinn3
  12. 1 point
    rappeleur

    Guten Tag from Austria!

    Yes: a little bench and a drawer full of watches to be brought back to life... Only thing missing for all those watches: time! (in every aspect)
  13. 1 point
    Tmuir

    Elgin Pioneer 8 Day Aircraft Clock

    I've found a few example of Elgin A11 clocks which look almost identical to this clock. I think the A11 was the evolution of this clock and repair manuals are available for them for a few dollars. I may invest in one before proceeding any further, would hate to break something on it. Oldhippy are you saying set the plat up on an open vice and use a stake fine enough to tap out the shaft from the wheel? I've done this before on stuck cannon pinions, but never on something this fine, or valuable.
  14. 1 point
    MrRoundel

    Balance nomenclature

    I suspect those numbers indicate the size of the particular movement. Generally the smaller number is the width, in lignes. the larger, the length. That would make it for a fairly small ladies watch.
  15. 1 point
    Tiktok

    Finishing movements

    This is the watch upto now with a cheap Chinese training movement fit to see what it looks like.
  16. 1 point
    WatchMaker

    ff watch parts

    This sounds like FHF which is Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon. Compare to the logo at the bottom of this page: http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/fontainemelon.php
  17. 1 point
    rogart63

    seiko 11a mainspring?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seiko-401-110-Mainspring-Ressort-Muelle-Zugfeder-Molla-1104A/162358367342?hash=item25cd50146e:g:kmAAAOSwZQRYepH-
  18. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Omega 551 MS?

    Looks like the Omega 551 mainspring interchanges with quite a few Omega watches list below.. Then what's interesting is this is the best fit list of cross references the mainspring catalog doesn't 100% agree with this. Although looking at the catalog it looks like all of the spring is if there is a variation are so close it's not going to matter. OME 550 (CD1) OME 551 OME 552 OME 560 (CD1) OME 561 (CD1) OME 562 (CD1) OME 563 (CD1) OME 564 (CD1) OME 565 (CD1) OME 750 (CD1) OME 751 (CD1) OME 752 (CD1)
  19. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Omega f300

    If you're curious as to what the procedure is for servicing these the manual is attached.. Unless you have prior experience with tuning fork watches and electric watches I wouldn't recommend because the parts are not readily available. The manual is a interesting mix of two manuals PDF page 29 and page 31 has the electrical tests related to the coil resistance. Then this watch has an interesting feature four screws and the electronic module and the index wheel all are removed as one unit.. ESA 9162 Repair Manual.pdf
  20. 1 point
    rogart63

    Omega f300

    That's not a quartz watch That's a "hummer" tuning fork movement. Not sure a linefree box will be so good on this? ESA 1260 is that the daydate model? Bad coils can be one problem. They are very difficult to work with as you need a microscope and now what you are doing. There are a few watchmakers that service this watches. Check electricwatches .....out.
  21. 1 point
    http://www.cimier.com/
  22. 1 point
    foxindebox

    Hello from the UK

    Hi, My name is Richard. I’m a keen amateur Watch repairer and am a member of the Epping Forest Horology club in the UK. I attend weekly sessions in Watch repair and maintenance and am working towards taking my BHI examinations in the near future I hope. Glad to be here
  23. 1 point
    noirrac1j

    Earnshaw Skeleton stopped

    YEs that could happen. If the watch was running when it fell, which it is safe to say it probably was, then the pallet fork jewel(s) could have become loosened or sustained a chip upon impact. J
  24. 1 point
    WatchMaker

    Valjoux 7734 hand sizes

    This link... https://rwg.cc/topic/130110-valjoux-72-hole-sizes/ ... details the 7734 with hand sizes different from those at ranfft. Any use?
  25. 1 point
    Folkvisor

    2836-2 Casing

    I was having problems with a casing kit for the 2836-2. First, it wasn't made clear that placement of part 145, the ring that fits between the dial and movement, was absolutely necessary; it allows the day and date rings to turn freely. Second, there was a spacer ring to go between the case and the movement supplied with it that didn't fit properly. I used some pieces of small rubber tubing as a spacer instead. I'm thinking that this fix isn't exactly good watchmaking technique but the watch works now and it didn't before, so... Just thought I'd pass that along for anyone who is looking to case a 2836-2.
  26. 1 point
    Geo

    Fitting A New Watch Stem.

    When fitting new stems to watches I use these tools :- Digital calipers, Fine grade diamond lap Wire cutter Pin vice Now for fitting. (1) Hold the stem in the pin vice and screw on the crown tightly by hand. (2) With the movement fitted correctly in the case, insert the stem until it locks in place. Now measure the gap between the case and the underside of the stem. In this case it is 2.16mm. (3) Subtract 0.2mm from this size and this will give the amount to remove from the stem. In this case it will be 1.96mm which will give 0.2mm clearance below the crown when fitted to the watch. (4) Now remove the crown from the stem and hold the stem very tightly in the pin vice, then place the pin vice and stem between the jaws of the digital calipers then zero the calipers. (5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length. (6) All that is required now is to dress the stem with the diamond lap a little at a time until the calipers read zero. (7) Finally screw the crown on tightly and it should be ready to fit to the watch without further adjustment. I find that this method cuts down on trial and error. FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS. A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and measure the distance nbetween the bottom of the crown and the case. B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into the watch until it engages and locks into the movement. C) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it there. D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case. E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in (A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement and the inside of the crown. F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and vernier callipers as described in the original post. G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite 221 to secure. Click here to view the article
  27. 1 point
    vinn3

    Screwdriver Sharpening

    "carless jewelers' ? I say - amateur mechanics ! it happens in cameras also. so, get your money back and learn how to sharpen a screw driver. vin
  28. 1 point
    Thanks I looked into it and there is a difference in the length.
  29. 1 point
    Lenj

    Black Slate Renovation?

    Hi all, I don't like Marblack etc..it's leaves a horrible carbon layer on the slate if put on to thickly, which does polish off when waxed..M&P used to make a slate blacking the best ever oil based. .As usual they stopped making it..Only way really is to rub down with wet and dry paper finishing off with the finest. As there is nothing else suitable, the Marblack should be used sparingly and rubbed off..Then as mentioned good old Black Boot Polish Kiwi, not the pound shop rubbish. build it up using the makeup remover (dry small round wipes) nicked from her indoors..5 or 6 thin coats is usually enough, let it dry and soak in for a good few hours next day ok, and then using the wipes slightly damp with a small bit of polish on shine it up in circular motions, it will come up a treat.. Here is one I did earlier.. if links are allowed.. Len
  30. 1 point
    Tmuir

    Waltham A11 8 Day aircraft clock

    You know how it is, its late at night, you have had a couple of whiskeys you are browsing ebay and you see something, you place an impulse bid and wake up in the morning to find you have won it..... ACtually quite pleased, its a bit rough but price was good, hopefully when it arrives it will be in a state worth restoring. I like military clocks, I've got a couple of Russian MIG clocks, a Russian Tank Clock, an American Seth Thomas Navy Deck clock and now a Waltham aircraft clock. Just need to get myself some British ones now.... It will be a couple of weeks before it arrives, but there are a couple of taster photos of it on ebay. No idea of its exact age yet other than it cant be later than the 1950s, but if I am lucky will be of WWII vintage https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VINTAGE-WALTHAM-8-DAY-A-11-MILITARY-AIRCRAFT-AVIATION-CLOCK-/382333164905?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=oZxjZV%2BqZEhnkGjEDMhqfs0Js7M%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
  31. 1 point
    noirrac1j

    Watch of Today

    VEry nice. J
  32. 1 point
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    Hi Anliv , I have a similar gold dial Pogue and agree about the feeling when wearing it . I remember wearing it on a job interview for good luck . Does yours have any water proof/resistance markings on the dial under the hands ?
  33. 1 point
    Recently I bought an AS1240 for parts for another I was repairing. Prior to receiving it, I took another look at the images and thought that the dial had been bent somehow while removing it from its case. It turns out it was a Curvex style dial. In and of itself, I thought that was pretty cool. It also had a rather strange regulator that I hadn't seen before. Then today I was looking at one of Jendrtizki's books and saw an image of this regulator, calling it an Incastar and explaining how it works. He said that movements using it were essentially "free-sprung". Hours later I do an internet search for Incastar, and what comes up at the very top? A thread by rogart63 on WRT. Very cool indeed, considering rogart63 helped me out with a few watch parts I needed last week. Thanks, rogart63! Another thing that is rather interesting about this movement is that it has 19 jewels. I spent a few minutes searching for other 19J AS1240's, but didn't turn up any. While rarity may not equate to value, it seems like it's a rather rare configuration for the model. I'd be interested to hear about others from others. It's rather sad that the case is no longer with the movement. It was probably gold and got melted, much like the one that rogart63 speculated about in his thread from a few years ago (below).
  34. 1 point
    Thank you. As i did mention, its not the monetary issue here, but its more of a memory to my friend of his father. Thank you sir. I guess I'll keep it quartz as much as possible. Didn't quite understand in what way this was meant sir, but if it was regarding me selling this watch, you can see its in a very rough shape for anyone to buy it. And I definitely don't want to add to the menace of fake Rolex watches that exist here already. Ill take that into account next time sir. I was just being honest. Yes, the question was closed within few hours of me posting it there. More important for me than the "Fake Rolex", even though I initially mentioned it, is to get this watch running for my friend. Its a kind of a gift he recieved from his father just about four days before his sudden demise, so it holds a special place to him. Doing repairs as a hobby, I have decided not to take money for this work from him. Thank you all for your response. The exchange chart mentioned only an ETA 963.124 and not a 125. I was bit doubtful, so asked here.
  35. 1 point
    Tmuir

    Waltham A11 8 Day aircraft clock

    Not yet as Ive been concentrating on watches but need to do a few more clocks this year
  36. 1 point
    Tiho

    GUB Glashutte Spezichrone

    Movement is GUB 11-27 produced from 1978 till 1985 year.
  37. 1 point
    jdm

    Crystal Lift Tool Bergeon 4266 Or 6400

    But as mentioned elsewhere, that's not much of a concern, as fancy shapes watches normally have a case back, so crystal is pushed out from there.
  38. 1 point
    rodabod

    Acrylic crystal fitting help

    Low dome are definitely lower than ATC and I would guess too shallow for your watch.
  39. 1 point
    rogart63

    Acrylic crystal fitting help

    ´Not sure. Feels like the non tension ring low dome is lower and the high dome is a little higher then the ACT crystal. If i would guess i would say high dome. Think cousisnuk have a document of the crystals.
  40. 1 point
    Pip

    Installing mainsprings

    Well I could have done with one today, I went from this: To this: Ok, it’s a 40 year old ms but I’m not sure that it wasn’t at least partly me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    VWatchie

    Screwdriver Sharpening

    I bought the following three products from CousinsUK, and by following the instructions in this video it has been working extremely well for me. • Bergeon 2461 • Can hold screwdrivers with body up to Ø6.95mm • Rectangle Aluminium Oxide Combination, Norton • Oil 3 in 1 Small 100ml As I have A*F screwdrivers, which I'm happy with, I first tried this A*F Screwdriver Sharpener with Stone but it worked extremely poorly. Only the smallest screwdrivers fitted the hole in the "roller". Plus, the screwdriver is held in place by a screw in the roller which is tightened against the shaft of the screwdriver twisting it so that it doesn't end up parallel with the stone. Also, the stone is very soft and deteriorates easily, like if it was made of compressed fine sand. Stay away from it!
  42. 1 point
    jdm

    Frustrated Seiko 7s26A search.

    They all fit, including 7S, 4R, 6R and their SII equivalents. For details about 7S26 parts compatibility across versions check my table at: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml
  43. 1 point
    dwhite

    Unknown lathe

    jdrichard: beautiful lathes! You have given me an idea on a motor mount based on one of your lathes.
  44. 1 point
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    Very nice watch you posted jdm . It is a classic beauty . I'll get one someday....... I started the Year with another classic that the Post Lady delivered on Sunday no less . It is a Tissot PR516 GL [Grand Luxe ] ...... Nice heft to it with the solid link integrated bracelet . My pictures don't do it justice .
  45. 1 point
    My 8mm BTM is powered by a motor salvaged from an old (1950's) Jones sewing machine, controlled using the Jones foot pedal. I even use the rubber drive belt from the Jones. No issues with power or torque here, even at the slower speeds.
  46. 1 point
    oli

    Basic lathe cuts on a watchmakers lathe

    Dean DK's channel is great, well worth subscribing to.
  47. 1 point
    This is a good find for those wishing to learn lathe work. Takes me back to the early 70's.
  48. 1 point
    Hi! You've got a model 22 movement there, and #anilv's instructions are a good start. I have a lot of TImex service documentation that I am sharing here - Timex Documents You should be able to find a lot relevant to your watch.
  49. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Screwdriver Sharpening

    For sharpening the blades I always used an arkansas stone with a little 3 in 1 oil with the same tool that sstakoff has posted. It takes a lot of practise to get it right. If you're like me when I first tried I messed up many. Make sure you have the correct size blade for the screw again its practise, first make sure you hold the screwdriver dead upright and not leaning to a side, master that and your screwdriver won't slip out of the screw slot.
  50. 1 point
    Geo

    Fitting A New Watch Stem.

    FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS. (A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case. (B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into the watch until it engages and locks into the movement. (C ) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it there. (D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case. (E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in (A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement and the inside of the crown. (F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and vernier callipers as described in the original post. (G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite to secure. This is now added to original post by Geo.