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Showing most liked content since 06/13/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    jdrichard

    Making a New Balance Staff

    I am making a new balance staff for an 18S Waltham. I think the balance is friction fit, however, my first cut 1.45mm was a bit too much and the balance fits but is not tight enough. I decided to leave a little lip so I can rivet it on as well (let's see how that goes:). I then cut the hairspring part at 0.9mm and the pivot at 0.12mm; cut down to 0.2 and then reduced using a stone. I had to move the Steel Rod out as I had worked my way in too far with a failed first cut on the balance part. I then cut the roller table side and angled the largest diameter. Tonight I cut the lower pivot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. 2 points
    Hi, yes, forgot to say I got a response on the 06th June. They were gracious enough to let me know about similar material online to help. They gave me a link to a diagrammatic reasoning test which is similar to their logic test. And a numerical reasoning test which apparently is a little different to the numerical test but should still help. I was also advised to spend time with fractions and rearranging formula. As expected, they were unable to provide practice example tests. Very happy to get such an informative response. Not least because - at best - I 'm very rusty at a lot of the above.
  3. 2 points
    anilv

    Watch of Today

    Dug out this Rado President, it uses an AS1702 with 21jewels. Pretty good except that it has these cap jewels which are pretty much permanently affixed. These have been discussed on this forum with no clear solution. Pretty basic dial, the Rado, anchor and 'President' are printed directly on the dial. Additionally the dial is engraved with fine concentric circles. Hard to photograph. Side note: If the Rado anchor is printed directly on the dial, its a hand-wind. If its mounted on a 'jewel' and can rotate freely then its an automatic. Instead of the Rado anchor on the crown, it has an 'R' which is what Rado used in the fifties to the early sixties. Caseback is normal.. nothing fancy but it has character. I've had this watch for at least 10 years and I remember the caseback was a **BLEEP** to remove. I had to bring it to a friend who had workbench opener to open it! And inside we have the aforementioned AS1702 movement..Looks pretty good for something approaching 60years old! Unfortunately the case has some scars visible due to water being trapped under the gasket, in this case I would imagine a lead gasket? Hope you enjoy the pics! Anilv
  4. 2 points
    There are two common problems that can cause this phenomenon of poor timekeeping. What does the customer use to compare the watch to? Specifically how does the customer know the watch is fast or slow. Sometimes customers will look at a variety of time sources none of which are on time and or use time sources that are less accurate than the watch. Then this is an automatic the problem with automatics are they need movement to stay wound up. Not all customers are active enough to keep their watch wound up. As people get older they're not necessarily as active as they once were or the lifestyle changes variety of reasons they keep automatic watches from getting enough movement to stay wound up.
  5. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Seiko 7s26 parts needed

    That's very kind jdm. Its things like this which I like about this forum.
  6. 2 points
    jdm

    Seiko 7s26 parts needed

    PM with your address and I'll send you these.
  7. 2 points
    StuartBaker104

    Barograph

    Time for an update on this... which appeared to have suffered a few challenges over the years. 1. Bellows Some research led me to discover that I needed about 1”Hg vacuum inside the leaky capsule. We still make some old bellows at work and have equipment which might have done this job... a vacuum bell jar with an inductive heating coil inside. Sadly I only had one part to practice on and I didn’t want to ruin it... nor break the equipment! So I found the original hole and made a new short piece of brass pipe and soldered it into the capsule in the same way as the others and made a vacuum pump from a syringe and bicycle tyre valves. This all worked well and whilst I couldn’t measure the vacuum, the capsule contracted down to the same height as the others with the best vacuum I could get. All was good until I tried to crimp the brass tube so I could cut it off and solder closed. I had hoped that it wouldn’t leak in this process, but sadly I was wrong. If I’d had plenty of brass tube then I could have had a few more attempts, but I’d had to make what I had from a brass bolt and didn’t fancy turning loads of them, even if I’d had any more suitable bolts. In the end I decided to do a temporary fix until I had more time to play, so I held the capsule compressed in a vice and soldered it shut. When released from the vice it retained about 50% of the compression. So it now has a little more air than it should do inside which will make it slightly temperature sensitive, but probably no other effects. The end piece of the bellows which connects to the lever arms was a home made replacement (possibly the bellows has been taken from another barograph), and the link pin hole was in the wrong place. I modified that today after the pictures below were taken. 2. Case I had to strip all this apart as it was warped and the joints were loose, plus the drawer didn’t fit properly. I managed to retain most of the original varnish then waxed with Liberon black bison paste 3. Lever mechanism I stripped all this down and cleaned the brass and polished all the pivots. Cleaned the dried up ink out of the nib and the bottle. All the brass had a grained finish so I refinished in the same way, without making it look brand new. I was going to use horological lacquer on the brass, but it didn’t seem to be finished that way in the first place so I opted for a coat of clockshine wax from Meadows and Passmore. I've never used that before so we’ll see how it goes. I can always strip it and lacquer later, but stripping off lacquer in the future would be a pain. Bought new charts and ink from Barometer world and voila... I still have to service the clock but since it is going I wanted to run it for a couple of weeks to see if it has any issues. I’ve had it running for a few days and made some calibration adjustments (there are a couple of option holes on the linkage); all seems good now but really need some bigger swings in atmospheric pressure to be sure. More to follow when I strip the clock down (one day)
  8. 2 points
    Tmuir

    Oiling advice

    I don't know what other people do, do I wipe them out first with household paper towels, then watch paper, which is just lint free paper, and finally I press some old rodico into it to remove any fibers from the papers. Other than for applying grease to the barrels I usually just use me smallest oiler for everything else on watches. To get an idea if you are applying too much oil assemble and oil a watch, wear it for a week and then strip it down. If you see oil has crept all over the place you have used too much and use less next time. I never realised I was over oiling until I stripped down a watch I had previously serviced when first starting.
  9. 2 points
    Normally it is a positional error. Did you test the watch in all positions. Some wear a watch crown up some wear dial down some remove the watch at night etc etc. I have found the biggest culprit is the balance end shake is to great. If so and if you have the correct equipment you can adjust the lower jewel setting with fractions of a mm making a huge difference. Side shake is another head ache altogether.
  10. 2 points
    Why don't you wear it yoursef for a week to verify first what you're being told.
  11. 2 points
    Is this your first watch you have serviced? If it is you may be over reaching a bit. I would suggest keeping it safe and buy a few 'ebay specials' and try your hand at them first, this is quiet a complicated watch and I still wouldnt touch it even though I have been studying watch repair for the last 2 1/2 years
  12. 2 points
    sstakoff

    Minute hand problems....

    Your connections are correct, but math is not :). Center wheel and canon pinion rotate together. Canon pinion drives minute wheel which drives hour wheel. But the minute hand is attached to the canon pinion. The minute hand (and hence the canon pinion) make 1 rotation per hour! The fourth wheel (with the seconds hand attached) will rotate once per minute
  13. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Minute hand problems....

    As clock boy has said its the keyless side. Remove the cannon pinion and just run it and see if it stopes. Add parts one by one to test until complete. Add hands without the dial. Run a complete test out of the case. When you are satisfied case up the movement less the dial and test. Working this way you should be able to find what is stopping the watch. The cannon pinion needs to be just so, to lose hands won’t carry, to tight will cause the movement to stop.
  14. 1 point
    Fred

    Caravelle with 11 DP movement

    I was in the same situation, what I did was to find this 11dp movement listed as not working but balance swings fine. I bought it shipped for $4, the balance worked amazingly well.
  15. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Making a New Balance Staff

    Started cutting the bottom half of the staffSized it against the original staffGraved it down to about 0.2 mm and then filed it down to size with a stone and oilI then burnished itThen i fitted the roller table to make sure the staff was the right size.I then fitted the staf on its own in the movement to make sure the length was right and the 0.12 staff pivots fit into the upper and lower jewel. It was a little long so I mounted the staff in the lathe and tool a little off the top pivot.I compared the two staffsI Then fit on the staff loosely and assembled the unit as a final check prior to staking on the staff.All done for now. Tomorrow I stake on the staff and roller table and test again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. 1 point
    rogart63

    Quartz Tester?

    Have you check the horotec quartz tester out . Great little machine that can do lots of things. I was about to buy one when i worked on some quartz watches. But no i seldom do . https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/horotec-flashtest
  17. 1 point
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    "Hope you enjoy the pics! Anilv ',.... Thanks for sharing the Rado Info and Pics . I did enjoy your presentation enhanced with your commentary . Interesting info about the dial and crown Anchor . And Yes , the movement does look well preserved . In All , a very classic , clean looking watch . Thanks , Louis
  18. 1 point
    anilv

    Services

    On most movements the barrel teeth are visible on the edge of the movement. Shake the watch to set the balance moving and use a screwdriver to push the barrel along on the visible edge and see if the movement runs. What you are doing is simulating the power of the mainspring. Pin-levers need more power than a jewelled lever movement. Anilv
  19. 1 point
    moldy

    Seiko 4110-9007

    Thanks JDM - I'll get in touch with them. If the deal is better for Americans, I should be able to use a freight forwarding service I'll also keep that new movement up my sleeve. I'm in two minds about that. Certainly sound like a cheaper and more reliable option though. The local guy reckons that the rest of the interior looks good, just that circuit board gone. So there seems to be some nostalgic tugging at me to try and preserve it (although, I realised this is not a particularly special watch - just special to me). Cheers Rogart63 - yep, I'm an Aussie. Down in chilly Hobart! I'll also reach out to VTA and see what he reckons. Thanks Pip - if I have no luck with the other options, I'll head to eBay!
  20. 1 point
    rogart63

    Services

    Pin lever ? The wheels look a little dirty. But as long as it's clean and there is no dirt between the cogs it's should work . The mainspring is toast i think.
  21. 1 point
    jdm

    Services

    I can't tell what is wrong with the escapement, but that mainspring needs to be replaced.
  22. 1 point
    rogart63

    Viceroy Quartz - stuck button

    Put it in a plastic bag or put some plastic foil over when you put i back.
  23. 1 point
    Don't be surprised if the arbors would be too large in diameter! I use smaller number arbors and large number drums. For example, for an ETA 2836 I used the #7 drum with #6 arbor. These are the sizes on my set (it says it's for Novodiac springs):
  24. 1 point
    p2n

    Viceroy Quartz - stuck button

    Roger - that's what I'm worried about lol.
  25. 1 point
    Mattaphysics

    Older Vostoks

    Crap! Sorry guys i thought i loaded them but i guess they didn't load sorry here they are. Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Asylum seekers

    Our members are from all over the world. Horology is a wonderful profession and extremely satisfying.
  27. 1 point
    Ok another thought which I did encounter once. Is the cannon pinion slipping if when you rotate the hands and it feels very lose then that will be the issue.
  28. 1 point
    JBerry

    Refinishing Zenith 220S/2531 Handd

    Hey, I have a Zenith 220S and the hands are in pretty poor shape, it seems like there is a lacquer of some sort on the hands which is flaking off. The lume is also chipping off. I'm wondering if it would be possible to dissolve the lacquer in Hexane/IPA or is this possibly oxidised/tarnished playing I'm looking at? Thanks in advance guys, sorry about the poor pictures Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk
  29. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Minute hand problems....

    Crap, you are correct. It's the gear over the pinion that holds the hour hand...I should know this:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  30. 1 point
    jdm

    Tag Heuer 2000 Series Automatic Chronograph

    Be reassured than plenty of people here have the same or better background, still have found the hard way that mov.t repair and service has a steep learning curve, and they break and lose a lot of parts before getting it right. Not to mention the absolute need to have the right tools and materials, and working environment. In Mark's videos everything appears easy because that's exactly his objective. And not only he's very good at what he does, he also shoots professional video with heavy post-production. Each one is entitled to do what he wants with his property, but for an absolute beginner starting with a sophisticated and expensive mov.t is objectively a big mistake, and you should listen to what people is telling you here. That being said I know that these words have often the opposite effect on Western males, stimulating pride, challenge and high self-esteem instincts. We have plenty of threads here started by guys with your same attitude, guess what, none had a positive follow-up or follow-up at all.
  31. 1 point
    Hi Ricardo, I wish that you had taken the advice of jdm. Well, it is your watch so go carefully with plenty of mechanical sympathy. Best fix some cheap watches at first to get the practice and know how. good wishes, Mike.
  32. 1 point
    ecodec

    Hi from Thailand

    Hi Ricardo, your Tag is too expensive a watch to make a start on. Take the advice of jdm . You may have a HS problem or very likely a broken balance if the drop was hard. In either case if you are just starting then work on cheapo movements until you develop your Watch repair skills. All good wishes, Mike.
  33. 1 point
    jdm

    Hi from Thailand

    Welcome here. Since it appears that you never worked on watches before, I absolutely recommend that you will not try to repair your valuable watch by yourself. You have really too many chances to do even more serious damages that what it has now. I don't think Mark is taking work at this time but you may ask him anyway by PM. There is another experienced member from Thailand but he has not posted in a long time and I don't remember his nick right now. The official service center is T.S.L. International Co., Ltd. 159/33 Serm-mit Tower, 20 Fl Sukhumvit 21 (Asoke) Klongtoey Nua Wattana 10110 Bangkok Thailand OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday : 9.00am to 5.00pm PHONE: +66 2 661 7272 FAX: +66 2 661 7474
  34. 1 point
    jdm

    Timex Expedition bracelet type

    Sometime the pin pusher tools have a tip too small. In that case simply tap with a jeweller hammer on a proper size punch, keeping the bracelet on an holed block. There can be dirt and rust blocking it so it can be a good idea to leave it in alcohol or acetone for a day before.
  35. 1 point
    I do not recommend trying poising the balance on Seiko mov.ts, especially for beginners. That is a way too difficult and advanced task, and results are not guaranteed, meaning that is a lot easier to do worse than better. Beside 7S, 4R and 6R are all mass produced mov.t s not intended for this type of adjustment, which makes better sense on a balance with Breguet hairspring and microweights on the rim. Assuming that the hairspring has absolutely perfect geometry, simply turn slightly the Etachron regulator (there is a tool for that but reportedly it's the wrong size for Seiko) in either direction and repeatedly regulate and test dial up and crown down. A variation of 15 s/d (usually crown down is slower) is already good and fully within specifications. Consider that conventionally the natural positional error caused by laws of physics is 10 s/d. You can somehow trick around these laws, but not beat them. And, as mentioned, the last test is on the wrist in at least a week of normal use.
  36. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Orient 46943

    The top pivot of the pallets has broken. So you need new pallets. Many members on here use https://www.cousinsuk.com/ What you call the oscillator. That is known as the balance complete. That whole balance has to be clean, any little hair or oil will cause the hairspring coils to stick togather and the timkeeping will be erratic.
  37. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Bent hairspring

    There is no easy way. to explain this. This I think will help you. http://raulhorology.com/2012/12/the-mark-of-true-watchmaker-hairsprings-part-3-forming-the-terminal-curve/
  38. 1 point
    measuretwice

    My Pulrta 10 Lathe

    Very nice, Pultra's are high quality machines, they were a brand of Smart Brown who rank among the finest lathe makers, ever. I'm pretty sure that lathe is 8mm, despite the name. Tony's lathe site explains it all - the 8 and 10 geneva lathes were both 8mm. Can you measure the body dia of a collet and let us know? http://www.lathes.co.uk/pultra-8-and-10/ As for drilling, I don't think its going to happen readily with that tailstock. Few 8mm lathes seem to have that function - tailstock collet mounting. The reason is (afaik) that its not really needed, holes are made by make a making a small centre mark with a graver then drilling with the drill held in a pin vise. The hardest part is make the centre without a pip in the centre of it, but ounce that is figured out its quite easy and being handheld, is very sensitive which is needed for small drills. Pultra definitely made a 10mm lathe - a shot of mine is below. its a treat to use, its a bit bigger than the 8mm collet lathes https://imgur.com/EVGFDOG
  39. 1 point
    fuse63

    Hamilton 747 Balance Jewel

    So I solved this issue, someone sent me the hamilton 747 service bulletin and it says to put a screw driver in the slot and turn counter clockwise and it will release the cap jewel. I did it last night and it worked so problem solved.
  40. 1 point
    sstakoff

    Teardown question

    Disassembling while in the case shouldn't damage anything. What I would have suggested is that you see if you can wiggle the movement out by gently lifting from the 9 o'clock side - opposite the stem - in case the stem is broken as you note. If it is broken in there it can present a bit of a challenge to remove. Now that you have begun disassembly, can you see the stem??? You may need to continue down this road. If you get sight of it, you may need to loosen the set lever and try and push the stem out by using an old oiler. You should be able to see the stem by looking into the crown opening and using a flashlight. I have run into another situation previously where the real reason I could not remove the movement is that someone had glued the dial to the main plate since the feet had broken. The glue spread and essentially bonded the movement to the case. Let's hope that's not your issue! Keep us posted.
  41. 1 point
    oldhippy

    One dip solution question

    I always used Ronsonol lighter fluid. I never liked that one dip solution. You will need a small jar with a screw lid because it evaporates very quickly. After leaving it in for a few minutes, I would put it on a piece of tissue and use my watch blower to get rid of the access fluid.
  42. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Help to Identify Pocket Watch

    Swiss hallmarks for silver are a bear or a grouse.
  43. 1 point
    TimFitz

    Old Hampden pocket watch

    I think you need to start at the Pocket watch data base to get all the information about your watch. Go there and type your watch serial number into it . The site will tell you model, jewel count etc.From there you can search Ebay for the correct model , jewel count & with all the information you have. I'm sorry if I am repeating things you know but I am just assuming, correct me if I'm wrong. Here is a link to the data base. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/ Now you can begin
  44. 1 point
    sstakoff

    Minute hand problems....

    Safe to assume the hour hand is not running either given that it is ultimately driven by the canon pinion->minute Wheel->hour wheel. In addition to the keyless work, this could be a basic issue with the motion work. Could be a broken tooth on the canon pinion, minute wheel or hour wheel. Could simply be a loose canon pinion. When setting the hands, do they move extremely freely -- i.e. too loose, or can you feel some resistance caused by the friction fit of the canon pinion to the center wheel post??? What lubrication did you use on the post prior to installing the canon pinion? Are you 100% certain that the canon pinion is set fully onto the post? Removing the dial is critical. Perhaps your keyless work is not installed correctly (e.g. yoke or yoke spring) and the sliding pinion (clutch) is engaging the intermediate wheel when it should not be - this would stop the minute and hour hands, but not the second hand. Good luck!
  45. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Help to Identify Pocket Watch

    I would say its more likely to be Victorian. Cylinder escapement. I cannot see any hallmarks so I am assuming it is not silver. Here is a movement very similar dated 1881. This movement is a swiss cylinder movement.
  46. 1 point
    clockboy

    Minute hand problems....

    Looking at your vids it is nothing to do with the going train all looks fine. The fault will be on the keyless side, loose canon pinion or a intermediate wheel installed upside down or a pinion that is not tight with it's wheel.
  47. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Minute hand problems....

    Check for dirt in the gears. As well, make sure that the hands are free and not touching each other or the face Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  48. 1 point
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    Starting the day with this Titus........
  49. 1 point
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    While waiting for a CT scan
  50. 1 point
    Bumps

    British School of Watchmaking Course

    Curious to know, did they respond?