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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    nickelsilver

    Is this hairspring bent?

    It's out of center, check pic for adjustment. The spring should be centered in the regulator when you're done, if it's not, push it right next to the stud to make it centered. The pins (pin and boot) should have a gap of about 1 hairspring thickness, and it should bounce from one to the other evenly when running.
  2. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    This subject has been previously covered, I posted a question regarding the very same, search the title " How are stainless steel watch cases polished ". Best
  3. 2 points
    Mark

    Apologies for a posting.

    It's possible you're being over sensitive. There was no problem with your post at all - you asked a question and you seemed to be getting some help from another member. But it was turning into a sales post and we prefer people to do this either off the forum or via private messaging. If this was not clear them please accept our apologies but please also understand why we dont want sales to be public on the forum it's been a rule here since the start several years ago and we have always maintained that rule. Best wishes Mark Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  4. 2 points
    I'm backing up what jdm has pointed out. Keep selling away from this forum, if not I will lock this thread. Thanks jdm for pointing this out.
  5. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Finally got my lathe set up!

    Good collets cost a lot for a reason, they're guaranteed to hold a certain tolerance. That's given that they're used in a for all intents and purposes "perfect" spindle. If you can't fit the collets from the same maker in their spindle that's a big warning for me. Willy nilly opening up the spindle to accept the collets seems really sketchy, it should be ground, but if soft enough (another warning) feasibly bored. But there's a key in there, so that has to come out or be erased... I think for many just learning turning such a machine could be ok, but when hunting down microns on serious work you need a darn perfect spindle and near perfect collets. They don't come cheap, even secondhand.
  6. 2 points
    rduckwor

    Is this hairspring bent?

    Look at the spring position BETWEEN the regulator pins. If its central to both pins, I vote to leave it alone. The old guys (Fried and De Carle) often suggested using a slight bend in the hairspring to centralize the spring position between regulator pins. It does appear to be a little eccentric. At any rate, I doubt your slight kink would be a reason for low amplitude. Good luck, RMD
  7. 2 points
    JohnR725

    Cleaning balance pivots

    As we appear to be somewhat going off subject I will continue with that. The jacot tool mentioned above is an interesting tool. As a young watch student one of the older watchmakers showed me how to use it. So this is what I got out of it to be good you need to practice every day. If you know how to use the tool like he did the polish produced is outstanding and that's a gross understatement. In the absence of that tool and the practice of every day a balloon Chuck works fine.
  8. 2 points
    In lieu of someone coming up with the hand you need, or a source to buy from, I've got something that probably fits into your category of an idea! You can pick up generic second hands relatively inexpensively from a source like Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/centre-seconds-by-size; they do the 0.25mm you need. Now whilst it looks like the longest they do is only 15mm note this is from the centre hole to the end; not the entire length. How long is the entire hand? I'm not sure but if I take their scale diagram and do a very simplistic split-the-15mm-into-four I get 3.75mm per quarter. If I then transpose that quarter to the remaining length I can see the entire length will be over the 18.5mm you need: But you require a squared off end ... so you could carefully file to the length and profile you need. Bingo! Ah ... but it's not blue. Well that's now over to your requirements and skills. Painting (e.g. airbrushing) is straightforward or you could look at any of the helpful online resources videos on how to hot blue (stainless) steel.
  9. 2 points
    jdm

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    Well, this being a (mainly) hobbyist repair forum -as opposed to a collector's- the idea is to share and and teach how things are done. And polishing is a good example of something easy and rewarding.
  10. 2 points
    jdrichard

    Cleaning balance pivots

    A toothpick could bend the pivot. Pith Wood is the best. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. 2 points
    Never give up put it down for a while, come back tomorrow, when brain is calmer. I have done same with assembling watches, one thing will not work and get so frustrated nearly ends in bin! Lol. Next day everything seems so much better.
  12. 2 points
    Flubber

    Is this a KIF Trior shock spring ?

    Thanks for your help. I ordered the KIF tool set with the extra springs since mine went missing. However, when I sat down yesterday to fix it, the d*mn spring mysteriously reappeared on my workbench. I have no idea were it hid but I suspect it stuck to my dust tray somehow. The tools were smaller than expected but color coded on size so it was not a big problem figuring out what size my spring was. After 10 minutes both upper and lower springs were mounted. The tools was worth every penny. My first watch (40+ years) is now ticking away !
  13. 2 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Another Timex novelty watch, with a cow, and a fly... nope I have no idea why. This arrived with the battery retaining clip missing, so I had to fabricate one. Rather fittingly, since I had no brass sheet thin enough, I resorted to a small piece of the lid of a can of sardines, rescued from the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiKLDkO-0rQ The paint was sanded off, then the metal was tinned with the soldering iron and cut/filed to shape, so If you see a bunch of flies following me around, there may be a reason for that. They are either after the watch, or more likely, the sardines.
  14. 1 point
    vinn3

    Gravers

    what ever gets the job done.
  15. 1 point
    rodabod

    Erratic behaviour crown down

    A couple of simple tests: can you grab the balance rim and lift and drop the wheel to see if the end shake appears excessive? Even if you don’t know what this should look like, start doing it now as it’s a common, trivial examination. Be careful when doing this with non-antishock balance jewel settings. Secondly, hold the watch in the questionable position, and under lots of light and magnification, observe the balance wheel and hairspring: does it rub anywhere?
  16. 1 point
    This is very true, in the process of heating, as in when tempering, steel does go through different colors .I do not recall the exact temperatures however.But I do recall that blue is in the spectrum.However I would think that heating such a small piece of metal of an unspecified alloy to an exact temperature to obtain an exact color could require so much art and science as to border on magic.
  17. 1 point
    To the OP: what country are you based in? Do you have the hole-to-tip dimension?
  18. 1 point
    bangy55

    Watch of Today

    I love those old Russian watches. Looks like you were lucky not to have hit that one with the shovel when you found it. lol
  19. 1 point
    jdm

    Case for Landeron 48 Chronograph movement

    Actually that can't be done because there is a no sales policy here. Use PM or email for that.
  20. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    Just think what I could do with FOUR CENTS!
  21. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Revisiting an old hobby

    The cheapest brand new version of this watch that I can find on ebay today, is a remarkable £6.11 - with free shipping in the UK. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/001Classic-Automatic-Auto-Mechanical-Wristwatch-Black-Belt-Silver-Shell-wX/202771370401?hash=item2f361d91a1:g:m-YAAOSwRmNdVVvS If you ever need parts for a Chinese standard movement, I can't think of a cheaper way to get them. Of course this does mean that there is absolutely no financial imperative to ever fix one of these, since the cost of looking at it, far outweighs its monetary value. Great fun to pull apart and put back together to see what makes it tick though.
  22. 1 point
    jdrichard

    Cleaning balance pivots

    I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  23. 1 point
    MattiSenturk

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    Yeah, I have allways been that ”engineer” kinda guy these things are truly amazing machines and any kind of learning related to watches intrique me on so many levels! Hope you will get the appreciation that you earn at least from these comunities if not from your family and friends ps. The pun was nice
  24. 1 point
    jdm

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    Isn't difficult to polish a glass when using the proper tools, material and technique. To be on the safe side practice on something other watch first. If you give a Seiko watch to a local repairer expect them to complain they can't get parts for it, as Seiko USA sells only to the dealers and centers having an account. But mov't parts are easy to get.
  25. 1 point
    jdm

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    Polishing cloth may be good for what collectors call "hairlines" but will do nothing to scratches. As Nucejoe correctly indicated above, use the search function to learn how that type of repair is done. You can't replace your watch high dome crystal with a sapphire because these are not manufactured in that particular shape. That is also the reason why Seiko didn't originally fit one on the Cocktail Time, unlike the other SARB line models.
  26. 1 point
    jdm

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    No. For scratches on glass you need first wet paper on a rotary tool, then finish with diamond paste. Many thread on the subject here.
  27. 1 point
    MattiSenturk

    Banged up Seiko SRB43J1

    No I would try to do just a tiny coverup job, scartches are very light and it could be done without taking anything apart
  28. 1 point
    deni2s

    Vintage diver watch

    It's a base metal, no screw-down crown. Nothing fancy. I would say that's a watch which looks good enough with all the scratches and usage marks to wear it daily, and cheap enough to not worry about it at all . Yes, the name means that (that's in Swedish).
  29. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Cleaning balance pivots

    Your link is very misleading and the description is not quite appropriate. Scrubbing isn't exactly the proper word and cleaning isn't exactly valid either. Unfortunately you have to read almost to the very end to get this sentence that I'm exactly quoting " To mount the balance, you can place it in a balloon chuck in a lathe or set it in a pivot polisher ". Then I'm attaching a sort of helpful link to a YouTube video. The video is not entirely correct either sort of but does show a balloon Chuck. So a balloon Chuck allows you to hold the balance wheel in the lathe with only the pivot sticking out so you can work on it. Working on it would mean polishing which is exactly what is described that your link. Possibly reshaping the pivots but hopefully not as aggressive as in the video. Or Reshaping the end of the pivot. Simplistically it's a way of holding a balance wheel to allow you to work on the pivot without destroying the rest of the balance wheel. Then yes if it's a really big American pocket watch you can usually leave the hairspring on as it doesn't seem to bother it. https://youtu.be/9K0-DVmZjrg In this next link scroll down to "Joseph School of Watch Making" Click on "Unit 4 - Burnishing Balance Pivots" This also shows the balloon Chuck. https://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs So now go back to the original link read carefully instead of heavy burnishing instead you're going to polish the pivot. So sometimes aggressive burnishing is not required only polishing.
  30. 1 point
    Koen

    Ronda 1113 mechanical movement

    Therefore, see that you always have a magnetic strip around, to find the small pieces on the ground again. https://www.toolspecialist.be/688-flexible-magnetic-strips-2-150mm-e-magnets-688?___store=be&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIopfQv7We5QIVguR3Ch34KQ4gEAQYECABEgJLvfD_BwE And don't forget them to demagnetize afterwords.
  31. 1 point
    clockboy

    Balance staff removal - tools

    Further on from my post I highly recommend that before replacing a balance staff test on a few scrap movements or balances. Its one of those jobs that looks simple but if you get it wrong there is no way back. I speak from experience. Marks vids are excellent and notice once fitted the testing procedure is also important.
  32. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Just to prove there was nothing fishy about my last post, I wouldn't want you to think I was skating round the problem, or conning you hook, line and sinker, here are a couple of images trawled from my image stash. .. and some suitable musical accompaniment..
  33. 1 point
    rduckwor

    Cleaning balance pivots

    Don't fear it, just respect it. Its flammable, but that's not a problem if you remember that. Get some small glass jars with lids that seal and use it. RMD
  34. 1 point
    anilv

    Vintage diver watch

    Great job! I is it a stainless steel case or base metal? Also does the crown screw-down? Anilv
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Double check your lift angle. I think the poljots are in the 42 to 46 degree range.
  37. 1 point
    I think you just need to hit them really hard with a hammer to 'improve' the amplitude.
  38. 1 point
    Baz

    Tag Heuer Aquagraph. running fast

    Thanks for the help.
  39. 1 point
    Good afternoon, I'm Chris, new to the forum so greetings to all. Have replaced a faulty 2813 movement to find the new one stops the hour and minute hand when the hour hand is fitted, no dial. Works fine with the minute and seconds fitted, but the hour seems to be stalling the train. Checked that nothing is fouling the hand - am I right in believing this must be a faulty new movement ? Thank you in advance. Regards Chris
  40. 1 point
    Evening people, many thanks for your replies, really appreciated. Had another look at the movement, this time when fitting the hour hand didn't push it so far as to make it flush with the shaft it sits on, but left it slightly higher (no dial filled). This time it ran so refitted the dial and hands, re cased and working - for the moment ! Time to research canon pinions I think. Kindest regards to all. Chris
  41. 1 point
    Faulty escape wheel. Replace the escape wheel, more than likely you be .
  42. 1 point
    jdrichard

    New opening tools

    It can open anything...over engineered. ..and I'm an engineer:) Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  43. 1 point
    jdm

    New opening tools

    Looks like it can replace a lot of chucks, mandrels and faceplate on a lathe!
  44. 1 point
    jdm

    Problem Seiko

    Likely the hairspring coils are touching or is strongly magnetized. If has not been done in the last 10 years it should be completely serviced.
  45. 1 point
    aac58

    Seiko Mainspring Database?

    WatchGuy has a mainspring database here where with some Seikos, although not all are listed. Sometimes you have to figure out what movement have the exact same spring.
  46. 1 point
    Peterburke340

    New opening tools

    Best opening tool I ever bought. Expensive but worth every penny Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  47. 1 point
    I , too, like unitas movements for reasons you mention, better yet are the larger size ones that came in pocket watches, good set mechs too.
  48. 1 point
    It will probably self steer . A center drill like this is usually 60 degree.
  49. 1 point
    Marc

    Sekonda 19 Jewel (Raketa 2609.ha)

    Just before Christmas I sold (through the good offices of eBay) an absolutely immaculate example of a 19 jewel Sekonda hand winder. I was a little sad to see it go as I don't think I am likely to see another in as good order for some time, and having just serviced it it was running like a champ but I couldn't justify holding on to it. Well, shortly after it had arrived with its new owner I received a message through eBay from the buyer. Huw had contacted me to say how pleased he was with his new acquisition, and did I service watches? as he had another example of one of these that was a little stiff in the winder and gained about a minute per day, and he felt that it maybe could benefit from a bit of a spruce up. I have done quite a few of these so am reasonably comfortable with them so I quoted a price and accepted the commission. A couple of weeks ago Huw's watch arrived so I thought I'd do this as a walk through. Looking well used but not abused, Huw had explained that he bought this not too long ago as a stop gap whilst his other watch (a Sekonda quartz chrono) was out of action with battery issues. First impressions are of a watch that has seen a lot of wrist time in its (probably) 40 years. The Timegrapher trace confirms the rate at roughly +60s/day, and confirms that a service is long over due. With the crystal out of the way the condition of the dial is actually rather good. The shadow to the right of the 7 is a lens fault on my camera, not the dial. With the back removed there is plenty of dirt speckled around the whole movement and everything is bone dry. The good news though is that it doesn't look like anyone has messed anything up inside. You can see the spring clip retainer on the escape wheel end stone (a bit like Seiko Diafix but not quite as clever). You can also see corrosion to the back of the bezel, this watch spent a lot of time on some ones wrist. With the movement out of the case the reason for the stiff winder and all of the dusty crud in the movement is brutally apparent. The outer end of the stem has started to rust causing it to bind in the case, and the resulting rust powder is thick on the inside of the case. These cases are a bit prone to this kind of problem as there is absolutely no attempt to seal them even against dust, let alone water, so even sweat on a hot day can seed the beginnings of a corrosion problem. With the dial off the press fit retaining plate for the motion works is exposed along with the keyless works. There's that little end stone retaining clip again, and the Raketa version of Incabloc on the balance. The rust doesn't seem to have got this far. With the set bridge out of the way though there is a hint of rust in the keyless works. Ouch!!! Just in time me thinks!! Balance and cock removed and the hairspring looks to be in good shape apart from the terminal curve which is off concentric. That will need to be sorted or the regulator will distort the hair spring as it is moved. Here also is the shim that Raketa are fond of using under the balance cock to adjust the balance end shake. A bit further in and plenty of gunge under the ratchet and crown wheels. Train bridge removed to reveal the train layout and a sub-bridge for the 2nd wheel. The main plate stripped with the screws put back in their respective holes. I do this so that screws don't go missing in the cleaning machine and I always know which screw goes where. The stripped main plate dial side. And then with the balance reinstalled (minus jewels) ready for the Elma. After a thorough clean everything is ready for inspection and reassembly..... ....starting with the balance jewels. This is when I check and adjust the hair spring for flatness and concentricity, eyeball the beat, check the end and side shake on the balance, and that everything swings freely. If you leave it until later there is too much other stuff in the way. Once I'm happy with it the balance/cock assembly comes back off until later. There is still a little work to do in this pic as the coils are still not quite concentric. The main spring re-lubricated and back in the barrel. This maybe could have been replaced but it wasn't too bad so went back in to help keep the cost down. Barrel, barrel bridge, 2nd wheel sub-bridge, and train back in place. Pallet fork and bridge installed. You can see the exit pallet poised ready to receive a drop of 941 on its impulse face. Walking the pallet too and fro then distributes the oil to the escape wheel teeth. Drop in the balance and away she goes. The cleaned up and de-rusted keyless works go back in.... ...and then the motion works and cover plate. Dial and hands back on, and ready to re-case. Again, to help keep the cost down I didn't replace the crystal with a new one, however, the original was just a little too deeply scored to easily polish out and there was what looked like a very small fracture. So a quick scout through my spares box and I found a second hand replacement which has cleaned up nicely. And the proof of the pudding ... as they say!! At 230 degrees the amplitude isn't anything to write home about but it is a significant improvement on the starting point. A new mainspring would almost certainly help this up into the high 200's (on the watch Huw bought from me I seem to remember it was 300+), but 230 is certainly usable. It is otherwise a nice clean trace with minimal beat error. It has been running for a week now in which it has gained just under a minute, so after a final tweak to the regulator it will be ready to return to Huw. I like these movements a lot. They are well designed and well executed, and capable of excellent results if looked after. They also seem to turn up quite frequently at the boot fairs. Unfortunately though, the lack of any attempt to keep moisture out of the case does mean that they quite often suffer from corrosion issues, and the relatively low cost (both when they were new, and when they turn up second hand) means that they are often used as a beginner watch smiths practice or learning watch, with the resultant butchery that many of us have dealt out as part of our learning curve. It's a shame in many respects, but then we all have to learn somehow. When you do find one that has survived unmolested though they are very well worth looking after. My thanks to Huw firstly for buying my watch, secondly for asking me to help this one to keep going for a few more years, and finally for allowing me to post his watch on here.
  50. 1 point
    Vich

    Cleaning Solutions, UltraSonic and not

    Yes I put plain water in the reservoir and it works well. I am just working on a small scale so the small Jam jars are fine for me using Naptha (good grade lighter fuel with no added ingredients) and finish with pure isopropanol. I sometimes use Horosolv for bad cases and that is basically Benzene based. Don't forget to keep the pallet jewels away from the strong stuff as previously mentioned. You can use other cleaners of course - one test to check them is to leave a drop of cleaner on an old mirror or piece of glass and check after evaporation that there is little or no residue Cheers, Vic
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