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  1. Hello fellow watch enthusiast, I have been working on a new dial and would like your thoughts on it. Created from bare brass and is not, I repeat is not a decal or a decal slide and is not pad printed. Tell me what you think.
    7 points
  2. Hi, it worked absolutely fine first time with no adjustment. I checked it over a couple of weeks and it never looked like it would cause any problems. The appearance was sub-standard and if I had to do it again I would try and prepare better before soldering to make the appearance better. Thanks for your interest
    5 points
  3. Some of you may have noticed last week, I was struggling with a major update for this forum software. I was getting a lot of errors in the back-end and it was making it very difficult to manage. I rarely do this, but I opened up a support ticket with the developers (Invision) and at first they put the blame on third party plugins, something I knew was complete BS, but I went through the process and eventually we got bumped up to 1st level support after quite a bit of whinging from yours truly. 1st level support immediately saw that it was a bug on their end and we had to wait un
    4 points
  4. Hello everyone, please let me introduce myself. I am Nick. I have had a keen interest in clocks and watches since I was a small child as one of my uncles used to repair both at his home and I would stand watching him for hours. I didn’t do anymore than that and grew to the ripe old age of 15 yrs and my first job was a toolmaker ... that was it my interest started to burn again. However my path took a different direction and at the age of 52 yrs I found myself pensioned out of my job with a non-stop shaking right hand and a diagnosis of Complicated PTSD, I am lucky enough to still be
    4 points
  5. Just finished this 1970 Seiko 2517-0211 for my sister's 50th birthday in 6 days time. I am so relieved that I got it finished in time. Main issues I had with it apart from it being so tiny were the barrel and auto bridges. The pivot holes for the reversing wheels were worn badly oval on both. A donor movement fixed that luckily. Hope she likes it. VID_20200923_151815818.mp4 VID_20200923_151815818.mp4
    4 points
  6. Howdy all, picked up a couple of nice seiko pieces other day, a 6319 6032 black pogue, and a 6138 0011 ufo. Both run beautifully.
    4 points
  7. That's awesome. In non-power delivery gearing, often you can get by with some serious leeway as long as nothing binds. A friend of mine worked at Breguet around 2000, he had an 80s vintage watch come in with two brass pins in the minute wheel where teeth had stripped off. His boss said ,"if it works, leave it", which he did and promptly quit haha (Breguet has massively improved in that time btw).
    4 points
  8. I'm always impressed just looking at these, and lucky enough to own a chronometer grade one, now finally had the chance to work on a repair, and all the positive opinions got confirmed. The owner lamented water ingress and the watch stopping all the time. Seeing no major damage on a first inspection I undertook the work with good hopes. Starting with the dial side the overall feeling of quality and maniacal height saving design becomes evident. The dial fits so precisely that a dial washer was not present or needed. This being a time only version I can't do any praising to the calendar
    3 points
  9. Thank you - I’m pretty sure I may use everyone’s advice at some point, but I will certainly look at oldhippyy a lot he seems to give consistent excellent advice about a wide range of topics.
    3 points
  10. Hello Everyone, I am going to share the details of my adventure with a trinocular stereo microscope and a digital camera attached to it. I bought a second hand AmScope SM-1T (1st purchase) and I had no experience with stereo microscopes before. What I am going to write might be evident for some, but probably will help someone out with limited experience with trinocular stereo microscopes, I might be even wrong with some of the things I am writing/thinking, please feel free to correct me as the last thing what I would like to do is to mislead somebody else. You might have a different
    3 points
  11. Normally fake Seiko use a NH36 because it's cheap and of good quality. You can post a picture if you are in doubt. If you need predictable accuracy I recommend that you do not try swapping and the like, just get a quartz watch.
    3 points
  12. Two more pocket money pieces for you all today. Despite the outward similarity, they are from different corners of the globe, with the Roman dialled one hailing from China and its Arabic numeral cousin, from the USSR. Both are keeping reasonable time, within 15s/day and both, despite being dead on arrival needed nothing more than a clean and lubrication. The Chinese number (on the right in this picture) is a ZB1 or SZ-1 variant. The Russian, on the left, has a Raketa or Poljot 2609.HA Note that I swapped the brown strap from one to the other, just to confuse you.
    3 points
  13. It's friday night over here and what is better than having an small party with wine, chips and a small check. Just because it is ticking it might not be ready to be adjusted. Since this question is freqently occuring in different shapes I will just make a small guide which can help you decide if you done the minimal checks. Maybe it will avoid this beeing an 50 + page post There are some initial checks one can do while servicing a watch after the repair, here I use a ETA 2824-2 as an example. First of all, I assume you cleaned the movement properly. After and before cleaning alw
    3 points
  14. Discussed at lenght below. It's a shame that one now has to research even before buying so called quality tools.
    2 points
  15. Its a really cool watch. No shitter here
    2 points
  16. Hi Khang Here are two documents you might find interesting regarding terminology and repair. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf Witschi Training Course.pdf
    2 points
  17. Have a look at some places where they change batteries. Some are good and able to do that as well.
    2 points
  18. While you have the hairspring removed, I would drop the balance into the movement to see if it fits with reasonable end-shake. Don’t worry about getting the impulse jewel into the lever as it wouldn’t act normally without the spring fitted anyway. Do look at the old spring for reference, even though it’s not exactly the same. Compared to a plain spiral, there are at least two manipulations made: one to decrease the radius of the terminal curve, and one to dog-leg the stud to be closer to the balance rim. The exit angle of the spring from the stud may also be different, and this is mo
    2 points
  19. Thanks for putting in the work.
    2 points
  20. Thanks for the responses. I took all apart, installed just the third wheel and train bridge - it looks and feels like it's as it should be. Thanks for the details Nucejoe, this is all a bit of a learning curve. I'll take it apart again and try that sequence watchweasol, see what it looks like. I've got my best technician checking it for me now as you can see in the photo, will see what she says
    2 points
  21. Must be so, TMs appeared in early 1930 years, like this "new" Siemens & Halske timing machine: or this one: Not needed, if you use the right modern stuff. PCTM / PCZW can test those easily, including tuning fork watches . Frank
    2 points
  22. They are Citizen's early quartz watches. This is the one I'm working on.
    2 points
  23. If he was a real Wizzard his watch would be working.
    2 points
  24. I always try - I’m sure you’d be amazed at some of the blank or confused faces I saw while trying to find certain ingredients/products!
    2 points
  25. Correct providing all is well with the movement.
    2 points
  26. Hi. im new to the forum so trying to work my way around the system so I apologise if this is wrong ... I am replying to oldhippy... I try and replicate traditional methods when restoring a case for example. I only use Hyde glue and will use Shellac & Beeswax etc. I hope that answers your questions?
    2 points
  27. Here is one showing the frequencies.
    2 points
  28. Close enough? PM me an address and I pop a couple in the post, they may even be with you by the weekend as they've only got about 40 miles to go :-)
    2 points
  29. Another USSR Poljot/Sekonda joins the 404 club today. This time its a 2614.2H which is the date only version of the 2628.H from yesterday. These are relatively easy to work on, so long as you take your time with the keyless works and the day/date complications. They lack the date quickset of some of the other USSR movements, but this makes them a lot simpler and more robust. I'm slowly working my way through the Sokonda pile so there may be a couple more before too long.
    2 points
  30. Sadly the only obvious way to see if it is affected is to try it. If you think it might only affect the finish, you could try potting the item in wax, with just the broken stem exposed, but if the main material that the crown is made of does dissolve in alum, then it will go the way of the dodo no matter how careful you are. I presume there is not enough exposed thread to catch with a pin vice or grip with wire cutter jaws. Maybe drilling the broken stem out is the best way forward, you could also try a reverse pitch drill bit, or even simply running a normal drill bit backward
    2 points
  31. If you look at the picture posted above it's a T end mainspring. The problem with any of the unusual shaped mainsprings are that you can't just push it in it has to be in the right place otherwise it will never magically go into the right place all by itself. Ideally for T end it would be nice if you had a mainspring winder. You'd wind it all most all the way into the winder you'd leave a little bit out. Then you slip the little bit out and the winder into the barrel so your barrel for the winder has to be little smaller than usual. Rotated around until the tea party is over the slot or hold t
    2 points
  32. It's a common mistake many pros make as well, but it's rebanking. Overbanked is when the safety mechanisms of the escapement are faulty and the fork can cross to the opposing banking at the wrong time, stopping the watch. If it's rebanking after fully winding it could be too strong of a braking grease. 8217 is considered a soft braking grease, I didn't quite get if you've serviced it and used that, or will service it and use that? If the former, maybe try some Kluber P125? If the latter it could be the grease is hard and useless a and a service will do it. It's highly unlikely the watch beca
    2 points
  33. Hi The "banana" piece is the broken tongue from the outer end of the mainspring which attaches its self to the barrel wall when the spring is installed. Automatics have a much longer piece which acts as a brake and slips as thw watch winds up non automatics employ a spring like yours. see the following Image attached
    2 points
  34. Why not add some more tick tock to the work area!
    2 points
  35. That's good that they're not for sale because had you've offered to sell me a dial I would've reported this discussion to Mark as you would be in violation of the message board rules. There's a section in the rules titled "Advertising, self promotion and posting links." As someone else pointed out were an open discussion group we share ideas and knowledge. You asked for our help you need our feedback and you don't want to share other than look what I did isn't it nifty. Just my personal view that doesn't seem like you're embracing why this group is in existence.
    2 points
  36. My only watch, not a real seiko, I bought it specifically for the brilliant "turquoise" color to go with the inlay I did on the watch tips in the band.
    2 points
  37. In your job, do you get your watch close to high currents / magnetic fields?
    2 points
  38. I always used clock oil. I found oil would distribute its way around the complete mainspring better then grease. I also have found in some clock barrels where the grease more or less stays put and if its old and the clock isn't used very often it can become hard and difficult to remove. Any clock mainspring that has become distorted when removed from its barrel using a good clock mainspring winder must be replaced if its the time side because this will cause the clock to be a poor time keeper even after service, Strike/chime this will affect the effectiveness of its chiming and or striking
    2 points
  39. I was going to make a "coming in the mail" post about this circa-1965 Poljot Signal, but it's already here. I do not wear *wrist* watches often, but the alarm on this watch is just so doggone handy. I can be forgetful. I adore alarm watches.
    2 points
  40. I wear one every day. Most of my jeans have those watch pockets and all but my largest pocket watch fits in them. I never, ever carry a pocket watch without some kind of chain. I dropped a watch once....ONCE! Here is where I store mine. This was a small display cabinet for something, I dunno what originally. I got it at Goodwill for $2.50. My father made the drop in shelf adapters .My biggest Pocket watch is way to big to fit in the case, so it sits under a dome.
    2 points
  41. I love this forum! A canon pinion remover was going to be one of my future purchases. Always research tools - got it.
    1 point
  42. Which perfectly describes the standard IT support process, as you, I and everybody else in IT knows. Yes sir, I refrained from whining about that just because I could live without emoticons. Thanks!
    1 point
  43. If those are your options go with the first one. Maybe a slight reduction in power reserve. At that height you can also consider 1.55 or 1.5 height, all other dimensions the same, no difference in performance.
    1 point
  44. Are you talking about a 7S26 or 36 movement (A or B version) Then that is a cross headed screw. There's a tool for it but I use a cross headed screw driver, I think it's a 1 mm, and it works fine for me.
    1 point
  45. In order to maintain a healthy and friendly community there are some restrictions for new members as well as benefits for those who contribute the most to this forum. It has occurred to me - or rather, been pointed out to me that I have never really made the details clear. And for that I apologise and I hope this post will be helpful. All members will find their current forum status in the left pane of any content they post on the forum (non-mobile) or by clicking on their display name to view their profile. MEMBER LEVELS NEW MEMBERS (Zero to 9 Posts) New members can
    1 point
  46. I just recently sold this aaaabsolute stunner!
    1 point
  47. 6139-8039 NOS. Love it but I'm in two minds about should wearing it with a solid links bracelet, or let it go to a genuine collector.
    1 point
  48. In my experience it leaves a residue when used to dab away fingerprints/smudges on plates, best to use fingercots and save the hassle. I just use it to remove balance jewels prior to cleaning,
    1 point
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