Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Delroyb

    Showing off. My new workshop setup

    Thought I would show off my new workshop. It has taken my the best part of 6 months to construct the building, then fit it all out, but finally have the space I wanted. It's a 6.5x3m building, split in half with office/watch workshop in one half and machine room in the other.
  2. 3 points
    MattWatch

    Some past projects and keepers!

    Hi All, Now, to start with I should say that my watch repaires are nowhere near the caliber (......see what i did there?) of some on this forum, but everyone started somehwhere right? Up until now I have been into costmetically restoring watches that run but have been somewhat unloved. Out of that I have started getting into the mechanical side too, I'm currently building up a FL Twin Power movement (one that I did not take apart) using the age old "yep, that seems to fit there" and "hmm that doesn't look quite right" methods! Some resources on this very forum have also been extremely useful. I can get the odd dead watch re-started, but a full strip down, service and rebuild is where i would like to get to. As i say mainly cosmetic work, the interest for me is taking something that looks completely unloved and turning into something that will be cherished. My watches have been bought for birthday presents, wedding presents, something that's being bought specifically to hold onto and pass down to the next generation, and that's what it's all about for me. Anyway, some examples for y'all Hamilton Self-Winding: Stunning Louis Erard Triple Date: Longines: Omega Geneve (never did try to sort that bottom lug out just in case): Oris 15 Jewel: Oris Super: Roamer Popular: Rotary 17 Jewel GP: 70s Seiko Auto: Seiko SeaHorse: Tissot Visodate Seastar Seven: Tudor: Old Timex: Thought I'd leave it there as you're probably getting a bit bored That's probably about 10% of the watches I've done over the past couple of years!! In terms of my own 'keepers', I don't actually have that many. A couple below: Tissot Seastar that I fell in love with the moment i put it on: Oversized Tissot Antimagnetique, which i sold and then pretty much begged the buyer to sell back to me. Which he did.....but failing to mention that hands were fused together. So i wound it not realising, and it's now broken and slightly in bits In the future I'd very much like to aquire a genuine military issued chronograph, that will be my significant investment watch i think. Hope you like! Matt
  3. 3 points
    Hi Guys finally got the sensor for the Horotec and got back on the job. The watch was dismantled again and cleaned, everything inspected under the digi scope and lo and behold the centre wheel has some teeth damaged caused when the spring broke, the wheel was replaced and the watch reassembled without lubrication firstly to check the amp. The amp is now upto 300+ Deg on watch o scope and the horotec, Beat error 0.03ms so lubed it up It is now running ok so left for a 24 hr test. RESULT. thanks for the input,
  4. 2 points
    transporter

    Stand alone microscope review

    Well gents a couple of weeks ago I jumped on a post about microscopes, at the time I had just ordered from AliExpress one of these, a 600x mag with built in screen etc etc. well it arrived and it’s great, it really is, the screen picture is very clear and the height of the screen and microscope are adjustable to the height where it is easy to manipulate hairsprings with tweezers in the vertical position. For jewel inspection etc you can lower it down to take advantage of that 600x mag and get a proper look at jewels and staffs etc etc. all in I’m very happy with this as it saves me having to have a laptop on the bench with leads etc getting in the way and also finding a program that works with the microscope. This one accepts a memory card and will take stills and 1080p HD video aswell all in one unit so it’s ideal. It’s light and as you can see quite compact, it’s powered by its own internal battery that has a 6 hour life before charging is required , a plug ( albeit a Euro 2 pin one ) and a usb lead is included for charging purposes. my only gripe is that you don’t seem to be able to turn off the led light when it’s switched on, but that is the only one so far. Well with the £40 and 3 week wait for it to arrive from China.
  5. 2 points
    JohnR725

    Record 1955-2 train question

    There is a formula for calculating out the frequency so you have the right gear ratio for your gear train. It's found that the link below. You can at least do the calculation and see what frequency your gear train thinks it's for. Then if you're good at math you can probably figure out which wheel is at fault. Then the escape wheel for the 506 and 508 are the same. The number of teeth on the escape wheel are probably the same but the number of leaves On the pinion is probably not. https://books.google.com/books?id=nZ27BvJwol4C&pg=PA81&lpg=PA81&dq=Calculation+of+the+number+of+vibrations+per+hour+Watch&source=bl&ots=5qP-k1sz-I&sig=bL28H-7jfrQKM6V4-l8B88Quo7I&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiH1oGglYXeAhW0KX0KHc05BWsQ6AEwCXoECAAQAQ#v=onepage&q=Calculation of the number of vibrations per hour Watch&f=false
  6. 2 points
    philipk5

    Case back opening.

    Bonus points to clockboy and eezyrider ! Managed to open it. Apparently there are three lugs on the case back that are equally spaced and locate with corresponding notches on the case. Very easy to go past the opening point and as such re-lock it (Japanese sense of humour??). Here are some photos to clarify, also for future reference should anyone encounter one. Assuming this isn't the only one still in existence. Many thanks to all. Now just need to track down a replacement movement...….
  7. 2 points
    Endeavor

    Remove watch dial

    @Nucejoe: You are absolutely right in saying that there are different techniques of how to do things. You are also right in saying that it is sometimes not so easy to navigate through the site to find the answers; even though it took me no more then 15 seconds to find the ST96 walkthrough. The problem is however that the other questions are hidden in a thread called "Remove watch dial". If a new thread were to be opened for each questions, chances are higher that the answers given to that question may pop up in the search function faster. This also may prevent that answers to that specific question (and therefor the knowledge spectrum) get lost, or do hide in a thread which deals with another problem. If we all do an effort in shoring up the question & answers, the search function may actually start to yield better results; and that will hopefully help (new) members to find answers to their questions. I find it hard to imagine that on this forum most basic questions are not already answered / explained in several different ways. However, for specific questions / problems, a new thread should indeed be opened so we can all learn from the given answers. @Leelemon; If you can't find the answer to your question in the search function, feel free to open another thread with your next question. Many members will gladly help you, be it by answering or by pointing you in the right direction
  8. 2 points
    transporter

    Stand alone microscope review

    You won’t regret it mate, just been using mine on a job that I’d wish I’d never taken on ( we all know that feeling I’m sure ) anyway, I quick update for you, I said on my last post that you can’t turn the LED light off, well I was wrong!! You can and you can adjust the brightness too, very handy, it’s on a control wheel on the side of the screen where you slot the SD card. One thing I do do is place either a white bit of paper on the base, either that or a nice bit of green card that I use as a bench mat ( hobbycraft £2.50 for 20 A4 sheets ) this helps to emphasis what ever you are looking at making for a sharper image.
  9. 2 points
    mikepilk

    Omega 552 amplitude problems

    Huge selection on ebay. Don't believe the magnification claims I recommend getting one with a stand that holds it vertical.
  10. 2 points
    measuretwice

    Lathe motor size

    that is a very nice lathe, congrats. I just looked at several watch makers lathe motors, they are all around 1/10 - 1/8 hp (say 75-100 watts) and speeds range from 6000 - 10,000. Looking at the size of the pulleys they are likely a 3:1 reduction to the spindle. There are Chinese made sewing machine motor for $30 but I agree 100 real or hopeful watts is not enough for that lathe. A key thing with electronic speed control ( by a VFD or DC PWM) is that it might be constant torque, but that means HP drops as the speed drops. If the motor is 1/4 HP at 3000 rpm, and you slow it down to 300 rpm electronically, you end up with 1/40 of a HP! Constant torque is great with say conveyors; with a machine tool you ideally want constant power - speed goes down, torque goes up. This is why mechanical speed reduction is always superior in everyway….but cost lol. The ideal is a 3P w/ VFD or DC motor and use the OEM belt speed reduction. I've a couple of Schaublin 70 and that’s what I did, best of both worlds - variable speed and full hp available If you get the oringal stepped pulley on the motor all the better. Nevertheless, if you want get electronic speed reduction, the idea is you put a much larger motor on it so it'll still have umph at low speeds. VFD 3P is an excellent way to go. A really cost competitive alternative is the 3/4hp Consew motor which I think is excellent (they are all over ebay/amazon). It’s fairly cheap, just over $100 US, and is a DC servo drive that max's at 4500 rpm. Given the pulley dia it seemed ideal to spin a small lathe at 4000 or 5000 rpm down to a few hundred. As a servo, the controller gives it more amps if the servo feedback shows its slowing down - it keeps the same rpm with a varying load. Some might think 3/4hp is too much buts not given you're using it for speed control, i.e low rpms it will deliver a fraction of 3/4 hp but still enough to do work on a little lathe. I've an extra unimat 3 that I'm readying for departure and it didn't have a motor. I put a Consew 1000 on it and am really pleased, so much so I've bought a second for my U3. That lathe was underpowered imo but not any more, irrc it was 1/10 of a hp. The Consew motor is intended for an under bench mount for an industrial sewing machine and has a lever to connect to a treadle for speed on/off. That I think is really important for watchmakers lathes, I currently use a miltifix but I dislike not having foot control and am thinking of getting a Consew and mounting it under the bench to drive watch makers lathes. For larger lathes like yours or the U3, mostly used with a slide rest (instead of a graver), I think speed control knob preferred. Fortunately its an easy mod to convert the lever speed control into a knob control. The black knob shown I added; its speed control and the lever just sits there disconnected.
  11. 2 points
    Geo

    Anyone got one of these lathes??

    I would suggest that this lathe would be suitable for lightweight model making. It is configured for metal cutting, but I would question the accuracy of both the three jaw chuck and tailstock. Diametrical run out and the smallest diameter the chuck will hold are both unlikely to be suitable for watch work. It may be if some use for larger clock parts, but if you want a lathe for working on microscopic watch pivots you would be advised to pick up a quality second hand watchmakers lathe.
  12. 2 points
    Sorry if I drift away from your initial intention, but i like to grab this learning opportunity if you don't mind .......? In the mid nineties I bought my Dial-clock in Melbourne, Australia. To learn more about these clocks, I also bought a book about Dial Clocks. The above mentioned bracket-clock is estimated from around 1770. Consulting my Dial Clock book, comparing the pillars it comes up with a pillar design of the 1770 or the pillar from the period 1780-1840. The hands puts the clock around 1780....... according to my Dial-clock book. But this seems then also to be thru for bracket-clocks ........ !? Which make me wonder about how come ... ? I know that London was the most advanced in clock making and I guess they did set the design trend. Which hands or pillars to use. Some designs slowly spread to the countryside and therefor they were in longer use than they were in London, hence the dating is often given in a period of years; from then to then. So my question is; were there, for example with the pillars and hands specialized companies who "mass" produced these and a clock-maker could order these parts from those respective specialized companies? Or, in order to make the pillars & hands identical according to the latest fashion of that specific period, were there reference (latest design / fashion) books floating around which could be consulted by a clock-maker? Same counts for the chains ...... I do assume that they were ordered from a specific specialized company or did each clock-maker made the chains themselves? Clear to see on the Ben Shuckforth (Diss, Norfolk) clock I did begin this year, that nearly all part were hand-made, but for example the dial ornaments in the corners seemed to be "mass" produced? (perhaps Ben made the hands himself or ordered them ??) Any idea how that went in those days .......? Did they have a kind of "assembly-lines" for certain clock-parts ....? (was a kind of CousinsUK already around )
  13. 2 points
    eezyrider

    Trolls, Spammers & One-timers.....

    As an administrator on another forum (totally unconnected with watches), I say the admin team here do a great job in making this a friendly forum. My philosophy tends to lean towards achieving an end goal rather than hard and fast rules, but without losing sight of the principles. Common decency and manners should always prevail but sadly in today's modern world it does not happen. Correcting bad manners should not be a task for the admin team alone. As Mark says, trolls and spammers are an everyday menace on the net. It is easier to control on my forum because it is for UK residents only so we reject any applications from abroad. I think the members on this forum are as tolerant and helpful as any I've seen. They do not talk down to those with a lesser skill base as on other forums. However I do believe people should do some research of their own before asking the most basic of questions. There is a lot of information in the public domain which is extremely helpful. I am a new member who is trying to take my interest to the next level, but because of this is it is difficult for me to make helpful contributions as everyone is more skilled than I am. I have an incessant desire for knowledge and even if a subject is not particularly relevant to me, I still enjoy reading and gaining that knowledge. Forums to me are a place of exchanging knowledge and it seems to me there is a great set of members here who are willing to pass it on . Can anybody ever know it all? Well as my old Dad used to say ''there is only one thing worse than somebody who thinks they know it all - somebody who does know it all …….
  14. 2 points
    Mark

    Trolls, Spammers & One-timers.....

    Very true. And I do feel very uncomfortable forcing people to introduce themselves before interacting in other areas. But I am willing to listen - this is a membership site and we all have a stake in it's success. The reason why I have never forced introductions in the past is because people should have choice - new members have a choice to introduce themselves as well as existing members have a choice to simply ignore their questions. I must say - I am a little disappointed that this is an issue as the original intent of this forum was to be a help towards others with less knowledge as well as a community where all levels of horologists and enthusiasts could come together and simply be - and be relaxed. With that in mind - I have a solution, and it is a very very simple one. .... 1. I am not going to enforce an introduction policy, but I will make it more clear that members of this site will consider it polite if people do so first. ( I will work on making this prominent in the welcome email and I will make this clear with a information box at the top of the forum which only new members will be able to see). 2. If a new member posts a question without introducing themselves then, and here's the simple part, existing members who may be offended by this do not have to participate in that thread. We even have an ignore function on this forum if you feel that strongly about it. 3. Any member, both new or old who harasses new members, and it's reported to me, will be warned - persistent harassment's will result in a ban. A Word Of Encouragement... One-hitters who don't even reply sometimes are extremely annoying. Especially if you have crafted a three paragraph response with pictures and the OP does not even acknowledge your reply. It sucks. BUT - remember this. This is a public forum which gets indexed by search engines. Your replies are never a waste of time - it's all good content which will be read many hundreds or thousands of time - there is no telling how many people you will have eventually helped - with this in mind, it does not even matter who starts the conversation, your replies and the passing on of knowledge will stay on this site for people to find for years to come. It's not a waste of time.
  15. 1 point
    For what its worth. I think this thread is a little confusing. It is confusing new members.
  16. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Trolls, Spammers & One-timers.....

    Hi, I was blessed with a stroke eight years ago and I have enjoyed every moment of it. Thanks partially to herbal medcine, I have been relaxed enough to learn enjoying and thats a blessing I wont let the social norms define or ruin for me. Regards joe
  17. 1 point
    I have 1700 crystal 40 NOS cases 100 NOS hand sets 160 NOS bands 1700 NOS dials I had the same view, would be good to have an inventory and it is but when new stuff arrives, I spend a while updating my google spreadsheet. If I use something, I update it, if I trade/sell something, I update it. it does take time to keep it in check but there are some unexpected advantages, I see a watch thats missing parts going cheap ? I just search my inventory for the parts and if I have them, its a cheap pick up (this where having your inventory in the cloud, accessible from any device is key) I also share my inventory with a few trusted people and they return the favor.
  18. 1 point
    I would say this movement has never had a chain. If you look closely you can see the fine impression on the barrel which looks like gut and not a chain. You are correct in thinking children made them, one of the reasons is children had far better eye sight then mature people of that time. You mention rounded "spiral" that is the fusee. You can still obtain fusee chains. I have seen them on ebay, but they are not new but second hand. Here is a link showing Sinclair Harding making a chain. http://clockmakers.com/fusee-chains.html measuretwice replied saying you can make a chain. Without the right tools it would be virtually impossible. If you have the skill you can repair them.
  19. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Remove watch dial

    Remove the canon pinion located at other side( dial side) , you can use a pin vice to grip the cannon pinion with, pull straight out ,dont bend . Suitable tool, pin remover. What is holding the minute gear is the canon pinion.
  20. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Demagnetizer Recommendations

    For anyone that's not sure how there supposed to be using the coil type demagnetizer this is what Omega recommends. Then even though it's in the picture I'm going to quote some text "Demagnetisation according to the three axes x, y and z is necessary when using this type of instrument. Do not release the instrument when the object is inside the tunnel as it could finish up being more magnetised than before." Then you will notice in the fine print a minimum of 50 cm away from the coil before you take your finger off the button and five seconds to get to the 50 cm.
  21. 1 point
    rodabod

    CWC G10 c1997

    Sternkreuz ATC 316. Swap the original satin tension ring into new crystal. You need a good quality case knife to open these which is done at one of the lugs. Look for a lip.
  22. 1 point
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    Here's one of my latest restorations ,....this one was stubborn to get running consistently . Seiko 6106-8060 Sea Lion.....
  23. 1 point
    ecodec

    Watches under repair (hopefully)

    Hi everyone, I have an old verge fusee watch for repair with separate outer case. The bottom pic and on the right is an early English lever, again chain drive and fusee. I have cleaned it and repaired the MS and made adjustment to what I still call the potence cock bearing to set the balance free with a touch of end shake. Need a HS and collet now and then we will see. The Verge will be the next job between customers. Why do I bother ???? Interesting ?? Pics herewith. Both gifted to me.
  24. 1 point
    rogart63

    Repairing in the UK

    Wouldn't it be great if you could clone a watch repairer
  25. 1 point
    Good question :) I have this saved on my computer and i printed it out on the printer . Have you guys and girls seen it before ? .http://www.bhi.co.uk/Documents/certificate/Tech/PractLub.pdf
×