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Showing most liked content since 04/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points

    Pin Pallet Beat

    The pivots on these pocket watches need to have a sharp point. I used to re-point them in my lathe using an arkansas stone with a drop of oil. You need to make sure the cups are good as they wear on the inside and can be very rough. You should be able to get an estimate where to pin by refitting the balance and threading the hairspring so the impulse pin is in the centre of the pallet fork.
  2. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Reminds me a lot of this recent acquisition, something about the case shape and dial really works for me.
  3. 3 points

    Save my diver

    I'm French. Yeah, I reckon I could get a new movement for $50 and swap it. But that's plan B. Plan A is to take the watch apart, **BLEEP** it up completely...and only then replace the movement :-D
  4. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    Omega "Dirty Dozen ".......
  5. 2 points

    Portable DIY desktop workbench

    Currently having limited space to work on watches, I decided that a portable desktop workbench would be necessary for me. I was inspired by this blog post for a similar sort of DIY setup, but was having trouble finding good sources for the individual components. Instead I used the following parts (mostly ordered from Amazon but available at Home Depot and Target as well): Carlisle CT121623 Café Standard Cafeteria / Fast Food Tray, 12" x 16", Gray 1x IRIS Desktop Letter Size Medium Stacking Drawer model DTD-L (available in clear or black) 2x IRIS Desktop Small Stacking Drawer model DTD-S (available in clear or black) Velcro 90087 Sticky-Back Hook & Loop Fastener Tape with Dispenser, 3/4" x 5ft Roll, White Everbilt #12 x 3/4in flat head phillips wood screws (SKU 284 773; from Home Depot) I paid about $32 for all of the above. Interestingly, everything except for the wood screws was made in USA. The plastic drawers do come with clips that allow them to be attached together, but the connection seemed pretty weak (hence the wood screws). To construct, I drilled through all of the holes on the bottom of the small drawers where the rubber feet would be pressed in (and ultimately ended up removing the Velcro you see in the picture below because I went with the screws instead): Next, I applied a bit of Velcro between the front edge of the two small containers. This may or may not have been necessary with the screws, but I did it anyway! To attach the two small containers to the larger drawer, I removed the top panel of the latter, marked where all of the feet align, and drilled some more holes so I wouldn't crack the plastic by driving the screws through it. You'll see where the two front inner holes interfered with molded plastic, so I didn't use screws there (also why I used the Velcro in the picture above). The screws may poke through the holes somewhat, but they shouldn't interfere with the drawers. Next I used a utility knife to shave the low feet off the bottom of the tray to make it smooth, then marked where it would be centered on the top of the small drawers. And in case you had been wondering, I chose to use the tray because it was cheap and had a decent lip around the edge to prevent things from rolling off. I then cut some lengths of Velcro in half and applied them to the topside of the small drawers. When I first ordered the Velcro, I hadn't planned on screwing it all together. The idea was to make it disassemble-able, but I changed my mind. Alternately, the Velcro could be replaced with double-sided 3M foam tape (though that wouldn't be thick enough to bridge the front gap between the two small drawers in the second picture. And now the final product, all stocked up! Esslinger's Watchmaker's Anti-Static Bench Mat Work Pad fit pretty darn well on the tray, with a little extra space around the edge to set things that might roll otherwise. The drawers have no locking mechanism, so make sure they don't slide open during transport. They do have some tabs to prevent them from falling all the way out, but that probably won't help much by that point. Final height is 7 13/16". The tray itself is textured, so a vacuum-clamp vise like the one in the blog post would likely not work. Hopefully folks find this useful. If you want, you could always stack more drawers. I find this size to be work pretty well and easy enough to store in the closet. Kevin
  6. 2 points

    Pallet stone replacement

    I spent two hours yesterday evening trying to replace the pallet stones in a Illinois Bunn Special 18s 21jewel Pocket watch to complete the tear down & cleaning and mainspring replacement . I went to bed because I just couldent get the stones shellacked in. This morning on my first try, Success I always find that taking a break from a job that isn't going well seems to do the trick . whether its watch repair or any other tricky job. Tim
  7. 2 points
    Recent pic ups at the local flea market. After a little clean up: Both running strong.
  8. 2 points
    This is why I make my own balance staffs Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  9. 2 points
    I’d almost be inclined to soak the entire movement in penetrating oil for a few weeks... everything has to be torn down and cleaned anyway.
  10. 2 points
    Well, the good news is it’s not a replica. That movement is in really bad shape. Could be a few hundred dollars just in replacement screws! it needs to be torn down and every part carefully cleaned and checked for damage. But I fear there is more bad than good there...
  11. 2 points
    Once you are sure the only steel part is the one you want to remove, mix as much alum as will dissolve in a small container (I use a tiny glass jar). I try to keep mine warm in a double boiler on very low (you want the solution warm, not hot), it allows more alum to dissolve in the water. After a couple of days, the broken screw will be gone. I usually only do this on weekends so I can keep an eye on it, and add water if necessary. Starting on Friday evening, the screw is usually gone by Sunday. If you don't heat it up, you may have to wait a bit longer as mentioned above. You will see the steel part turn black in a few hours, that's a sign that it's working. Be patient, an it will work.
  12. 2 points

    How do you 'Age' your lume?

  13. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    7t42 timer today Recycled photo [emoji4]
  14. 2 points

    Eta 2824 issues

    Agree with John but considering the 2824 isn't, after all, a cheap mov.t I would recommend to use exactly what ETA recommends. I suppose that's 9010 on all jewels but pallet stones, where 941 should be used. And don't oil pallet fork pivots. That will maximize amplitude & durability, for a total of GBP 30 before VAT it won't break the bank.
  15. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Wearing a Fortis 'True-line' this Sunday. It's an automatic with an ETA 2452 inside. Bought it cheap a few years back as it was not running, a service and it's running fine. It had a generic crown which I swapped out for a used original I had around. It has shrouded lugs which is a nice design feature and with the date at 1 o'clock it's quite a unique watch. Foetus is a brand rich in historynd their recent models are quite ice but is sad that they had to declare bankruptcy last year.. Hope they make it through. Anilv
  16. 2 points

    Banking question! Not certain.

    Looking at your readings I would say there is not a lot wrong. Personally I would just re-clean the escapement side Ie hairspring assembly & pallets. It amazing how the tiniest amount of grease/dirt can cause this issue.
  17. 1 point

    Running slow....

    Excellent - it's lard, 3-in-1 and WD40 for me from now on then
  18. 1 point

    New Watch Repairman (Lady)

    Hi MM, welcome to the forum, you will find very knowledgeable people on here who are happy to advise and help you. ( I am not one of them) every problem I have had concerning watch repair has been sorted simply by asking. This is the best and friendliest watch forum around. I look forward to seeing photos of your collection.
  19. 1 point

    Lew & Me

    Do they have names or numbers.
  20. 1 point

    Pin Pallet Beat

    Remember, I said the picture was from before the HS was worked on... it's much improved from that picture I'm pleased to say! Will try and post a pic tonight. Oh, and that HS pic you posted - A thing of beauty is a joy forever.
  21. 1 point

    Banking question! Not certain.

    Loos like a pretty good timegrapher reading to me. I think people get a bit carried away with beat error now that it's so easy to measure, whereas the amplitude is arguably more important. You've got a good amplitude, so as long as it's in poise then it should keep good time.
  22. 1 point

    Running slow....

    I would take the mainspring out of the barrel and have a look at it. Best to change for new one .. otherwise you'll be chasing smoke! Anilv
  23. 1 point

    Running slow....

    It's described as "watch oil" so should be ok for pocket watches? Might of oiled the pallet fork bearings... :$ Because it's really easy to always blame the watch (or the tools) and in doing so miss something I'm doing. I'm really new to this (2 months) and I know I'm probably still making mistakes. I want to try and find and fix them as quick as I can. That's a good idea. I did buy a good condition working mechanism when I started all this a month or two ago. I was planning just to put it in a case (the one my Ingersoll-Trenton came in) but decided not to (sticking with the original slow running movement). I've put that on Watch-O-Scope | PCTiming Machine | TG software already and it's pretty good (under 10 s/d) the I'll "service" that and see what happens.
  24. 1 point
    So, found this "K & D Improved Main Spring Winder No. 128" on eBay and I also found a tutorial on how to use it, so I bought it. I'll try to let you know what I think as soon as I've tested it.
  25. 1 point

    Battery for Bering 11939-393

    You probably need to open it to find out? Or take it to a watchmaker to install a new battery.
  26. 1 point
    Slightly off watches, but having used this method successfully on broken stems in crowns in the past, I have moved onto larger items, namely removing a broken steel bleed nipple (circled, under the cloud of bubbles) from an aluminium motorcycle disc brake calliper. Not quite there yet after about 5 hours of gentle simmering, but heat certainly speeds things up... Note the item is placed in the alum solution within a glass pyrex bowl or it would eat the steel saucepan!
  27. 1 point
    First make sure the part you want to remove is steel and not any other metal. Also make sure no other steel parts are around as the alum is indiscriminate. Next mix Alum with hot water and soak the part, after several hours try to scrape the broken screw out with a sharp pick, you will find it has turned to a rust like substance. Repeat again after a few hours. Depending on the amount of alum dissolved you may need to mix a fresh batch. Most guys say that heat helps, personally I am in the tropics and haven't had to reheat, but mine usually takes around 6-10 days to get out completely. Heat may help but I can wait. Anilv
  28. 1 point
    Subscribing to learn about it too!
  29. 1 point

    How do you 'Age' your lume?

    Yes unsure if it is radium or not, so will treat it as is it is radium lume. I'm guessing the watch was made around the time Radium was being phased out. Thanks for the tip on Noctilumina, I wasn't aware of that brand and it will now require some further investigation
  30. 1 point

    Lew & Me

    What a beautiful Cat
  31. 1 point

    Lew & Me

  32. 1 point
    Hi Mr Roundel. I’ve been taken directly to dr ranffts site before when searching for a known movement I’d, but to be honest I’ve never looked at it from the perspective of using it as a comprehensive, searchable data base. Thanks for the tip. I don’t consider myself to be experienced by a long chalk in comparison to some of the longer served folks on here - but I’ll try not to let the compliment go to my head :-). Thanks again and I’ll keep you all updated on what I find out. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    Sometimes a high concentration of alkali/acid can have less effect than a dilute solution. Extreme is magnesium which will just darken with some strong acids but fizz away like mad with very weak acids. I have a small U/S cleaner and I just put the parts in lighter fuel in a flat bottomed container which goes straight into the U/S without anything in the tank. Provided the container is heavy enough then it seems to U/S ok. I've also done this with water based U/S cleaner fluid. However I usually just rely on hand cleaning and use the U/S as belt & braces for dirty or troublesome parts as its only a hobby for me.
  34. 1 point

    How do you 'Age' your lume?

    Sometimes i mixed the old lume with new lume. Have used Noctilumina aged pigment that has no glow. Even used some black marker pen to get the lume a little blackish. Or grey as they usually are if the have been around for many years. It's just how much black you use. Take care if they are radium. So you use the radium lume again. Yellow marker pen work great to. But it takes very little to color in the lume.
  35. 1 point
    I would apply a drop of penetrating oil to the pipe/pivot and let it soak for a while.
  36. 1 point

    Installing a Free Mason Dial

    Funny handshake stuff is very collectable.
  37. 1 point

    Tissot 28,5-621 mainspring question

    So I found a parts list at least it confirms that it's a newer spring with bridal attached. Then bestfit online doesn't have a mainspring at all? It does have other parts like the barrel listed but not with the mainspring. Then it does confirm and agree with the tech sheet that the TIS 28.5R-21 Is the base model for the TIS 28.5R-621. Then the physical bestfit book gives the mainspring as a WA80 3 1/2 x 11 x 10 1/2. So if I do the calculations for length comes out to 266.70 mm to add to your mystery. Tissot 28.5R-21 Part Sheet.pdf
  38. 1 point

    Hello from Montreal

    Hi, I have just sorted a vintage Zenith chronograph with a similar problem. I gave the watch a clean and serviced it and whilst the balance was out I checked the hair spring. A deft re-alignment was all that was necessary as in the face up position the coil was touching the cock opposite the index pins (curb pins if you prefer). I wonder if this is your trouble. This cured my problem anyway. I hope this is of help. Check the escapement wheel for reliable rotation in steps as you move the lever across the banking pins. The lever should flick from one pin to the other under the influence of the escape wheel drive. Good wishes and best regards, Mike. PS. There are some highly skilled people on this forum who will help. I am not one of them !.
  39. 1 point

    Tissot 28,5-621 mainspring question

    A simple way and rough calculation with barrel and spring 1 third is for the spring, another is the size of the arbor, the final third is the space between spring and arbor.
  40. 1 point

    Banking question! Not certain.

    I recently had a similar issue. I re-cleaned the hair spring and the problem went away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    Lucky you it's a 25-66 movement. The second hand wheel is probably broken. But you could still find those wheels pretty easy. They are often broken. Either rust or damage. They are pretty thin and break easily.
  42. 1 point

    Hello from Southern California

    Welcome! And I'm interested in learning more about the old Timex watches. I still remember the ridiculous commercials as a kid. And the Museum (recently closed) was here in CT as well.
  43. 1 point

    Hello from Southern California

    Not true! Someday soon I'll have to put together a walk through to demonstrate how this is done, both the factory recommended way, and taking a movement to pieces. It is not easy, as they are full plate movements, but so are a lot of other watches of historical interest. Cheers!
  44. 1 point

    French Pin-Set PW?

    Here it is folks. I'm guessing mid-19th century French based on the pin set and cylinder escapement. Thought I would share with you. Almost looks like a bar movement that made it's way to a finisher. Enjoy, C Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  45. 1 point

    Great book on adjustment

    Here is it's PDF can be found. http://www.survivorlibrary.com/library/rules_and_practice_for_adjusting_watches_1920.pdf
  46. 1 point
    While asking if paying out $350 to get this watch repaired is practical , is something you would have to decide for yourself . It is probably the first Nautilus electric , being of the 200 series , and it is 14K solid gold , [a Big Plus ] , and it is in great looking shape . The Solid gold Hamilton Electrics Do hold their value . Having said that , I have a few Hamilton electrics in my collection and I have made repairs and serviced both the 500 and 505 movements . The later 505 movement is by far easier to repair and service , and most Nautilus watches had that movement . The 500 is tricky to repair because of the proper and delicate alignment of the 2 contact fingers . I would suggest that you get as much Information on the type of movement in your watch and contact members of the Hamilton Forum with questions as dadistic suggests . Also you may want to contact Ebay seller adamtime with any questions . He always has all things Hamilton Electric for sale . adamtime (758) 100% positive feedback In the past I have emailed Hamilton Electric Guru , Rene Rondeau through his website with questions , and he is a gracious Gentleman that will answer your questions . Good Luck Wetbird , and let us know what your outcome is .
  47. 1 point

    Wedding gift - back from repairs, yay!

    My wife bought me this Official Cosmonauts for me for our wedding 15 years ago. It was my Grail watch before I knew the term. The stem broke awhile ago. Eventually I decided to take it to Right Time in Denver. Fortis finally shipped the parts after a couple months and got it back yesterday. Oh how I've missed it! I am really digging it on this new black nato with matching satin stainless steel hardware (originally got this strap for my Lunar Pilot).
  48. 1 point

    Vintage Timex Restorations

    My collection of 1950's - 1960's - 1970's US Time \ Timex restorations
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point

    Demagnetizer Recommendations

    Thanks jdrichard,only just picked up on your reply cheers Phil. Also need to learn how to post pics on this forum lol