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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    anilv

    ETA 2824-2

    The stem should be in the hand-setting position. Also the button should be depressed when re-inserting, do not depend on the spring of the set-lever. Use a screwdriver which width fits the slot exactly so that the stem release doesnt get pushed too far down. Anilv
  2. 2 points
    Well.....since I was so bullish on you getting the Star, I'm feeling bad its not yet working.....I'll make you a pulley if you like. One time offer, I am not going into pulley business lol. You have to supply a good dimensioned drawing of exactly what you want and postage.
  3. 2 points
    Thanks. I bit the bullet and order a set of 4 Bergeon. Costly, but I need all the help I can get.
  4. 2 points
    That's a very nice pocket watch you have there. I once had a rare IWC C56 Americaine, and it was very high grade. It's odd that you're showing 3 different numbers from the case. Are those factory engraved into the front, back, and dust-cover? If so, it would seem to indicate that it could be a Franken-case. That said, it doesn't look like it in the images. It looks like both front and back have what are called Jurgensen lips, denoted by the little extra cover piece that travels up the pendant. If you have images of those serial numbers, it might help to determine something. That all said, the fact that the back is tight, may just be how that case is. Back when it was made, it was rare for people to really need to see the mechanism, or make adjustments. And the harder it is, the more effective it may be at keeping out dust. Cheers.
  5. 2 points
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    My big dilemma for today was which blue dialed vintage Seiko am I going to wear ? First I tried my Seiko 6119-5411 which is definitely a favorite of mine I think , because for one reason or another It took me for what seemed an eternity to finally get this watch running and looking good to my satisfaction . I love the UFO shape....... ET , where are you ? or my Mad Men wannabe Seiko Actus... 7019-5040 .... well , as usual ,...I'm having a hard time making a descision on this matter so I'm going to flip a coin and see what destiny has in mind . to be continued....
  6. 2 points
    That did it. Though, I made a slight mod to the procedure. I placed the donut over the barrel and secured both to the bench by running strips of strong packing tape of the edges of the donut.
  7. 2 points
    Thoast

    Oil collection technique

    Dear Bethan, I am not sure, if this is what you have in mind, but might help: Part 1: Part 2: I hope putting the links to youtube does not offend the forum rules. Cheers Thorsten
  8. 1 point
    clockboy

    Running Oh So Fast

    Yes agree with the previous two posts it is most likely the wrong gear ratio. Also noticed one side of the escape is not good.If it was me I would check the replacement wheels and then re-clean and lubricate the balance etc.
  9. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Running Oh So Fast

    Somewhere in the discussion group within the last year or so this came up with another watch. So the balance wheel oscillates at its proper frequency the timing machine shows that. The gear ratio has to correspond to the rate of the balance wheel as pointed out above. If the gear ratio is wrong the hands will move at the wrong rate. I've seen this occur with several watches they came in several different frequencies. So basically physically identical watches a lot of parts would interchange except gear train they be some differences there for the gear ratio and the different balance wheels. This met when you're ordering replacement gear train gears you had the make sure you ordered the correct wheels or you'd get exactly what you have strange timekeeping.
  10. 1 point
    Delgetti

    Running Oh So Fast

    I think it's a gear ratio issue. A friend had a similar problem on a rolex 1570. He bought a spare part (in his case second wheel) on the internet. But the seller mixed parts of 1570 and 1530 which are very similar but have different numbers of teeth. So the wrong wheel fitted but established a wrong ratio. I would count the teeth on the wheels you replaced and compare that with the originals.
  11. 1 point
    It's a nice watch. The almost certainly original case does show a bit of expected wear, as if a watch has been worn, but looks pretty solid. There does look like the front cover has been "sprung" a little. The slightly larger gap between the cover and the case band seem to indicate that. Still, overall it's very nice, IMHO. I believe the market is still pretty strong for early IWC watches. Good luck if you sell it. Cheers.
  12. 1 point
    watchweasol

    broken mainspring

    Hi is this a travel clock as the spring looks a bit coarse for a watch If so as Tmuir says they an be repaired, I personaly have used both the rivit and the loose end fittings and done right are quite sucessful but it means softening the spring end either to bend it in the case of the loose end fitting and also the rivit method for drilling but care must be taken not to crack or craze the spring
  13. 1 point
    AndyHull

    Making a custom dial

    One of the scruffier watches waiting for my attention has a pretty beat up looking dial, which I hope to experiment with. My plan is to preserve what is left of the original, but make a replacement, which given its condition seems the most sensible way forward. With this in mind I set to work with Gimp to see what sort of result I could expect. I used one of the ebay images as the basis for the replacement art work, squared it up and set it as the base layer of the new image. My feeling is that the original was dial artwork was fairly simply produced, probably using three different drafting pens, as there appear to be three distinct line widths. So I measured each, and experimented with the brush widths in Gimp until I had something close to the original. I then added two new layers. A base white layer, and a top layer on to which I am building the art work. By selectively switching each layer on and off, I can toggle between the transparent top layer with the art work, the middle layer with the original damaged dial, and the base white layer (by clicking the small visibility "eye" icon next to each layer in the tool). Here are a couple of screen shots to try to illustrate the process. All layers on. Base and artwork layer on. Original dial and white layer on. Notice how much detail has been destroyed. This technique allows very accurate positioning of the artwork to match the original, and lets me re-create the missing details by careful measurement. This is only a first draft, but it looks like it could produce a usable result.
  14. 1 point
    Tmuir

    broken mainspring

    You could in theory fix it, but I would measure the mainspring and see if you can buy a replacement. They used to rivet the extra bit on, but now its usually spot welded, but in some older watches they just have a loose end mainspring hook, which you might be able to do for this spring if you can't find a replacement, but it would be tricky. W.J. Gazeley's book Watch and clock making and repairing explains how to do this. (1950s book). I will take a photo and post it from the book shortly.
  15. 1 point
    JimmyD

    Watchmakers Lathe Motor Pulley Slipping

    When I was an apprentice antique restorer way back in the 60's and machines being used were made in the 40's we used to use Pine resin for slipping belts. It was left to dry and then crushed to a rough powder, worked a treat on leather belts, not sure how it would go on today's synthetic belts though.
  16. 1 point
    Yeah no way you have enough contact there. You can try to turn the v deeper but ha need a lathe for that. Worst case use a triangular file and file it. It'll probably seat on the rest of the factory v once there's clearance.
  17. 1 point
    U could use a pin vice to hold the arbor. That would make it easier to turn it.
  18. 1 point
    JohnR725

    Rolex owner claims watch stops

    Initially when I saw this " Episurf Neo" I assume that was something I wasn't interpreting correctly? But seeing MrRoundel Message above I googled it and found a link below. Then I remembered Omega had what I thought was a revised but in reality is a new document on new procedure to apply Epilame treatment. So they're using FIXODROP ES/BS 8981 Which comes in 1 & 5 Litre Bottles. So a dramatic departure from the past new procedure and what gets surface treated has changed dramatically. New procedure is run the watch through the cleaning machine same as always. Then we get to the dramatic difference previously only a couple of components got treated now a couplet components are not treated and just about everything else in the watch is. Then the complicated application of the past is gone you put a new jar in your cleaning machine filled with the solution there recommending for a Greiner machine half a liter of fluid for the jar. One minute in their a couple of minutes in the dryer your good to go.. https://www.surfactis.com/en/produits/episurf-2/ http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames
  19. 1 point
    Tmuir

    Tool Identification and Use

    No worries, I've spent plenty of time just thumbing through the books reading about odd looking tools that the pictures have caught my eye, the Riveting thimble and stand being one of those tools, you won't regret buying it for $20. A lot
  20. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Making a custom dial

    I agree, Its always a good idea to asked moderators. I have done so before, asked of OH about spare parts fellow forumers often need. The dials in bulk are vintage Oris calender pointer, some eight hundered genuine plates in two diferent aizes, all with good sturdy feet. My question is, what do you recommend? Will post pix within a day. Nearly six hundered genuine plates all vintage selfwinder fortis of various models and sizes already on hand, yet the quanrity can rise considerably. Fifty rare plates of various brands. Some guy here in Tehran refurbishes, prints are good paint or decal quality is not as good as the pic shown earlier in this thread. I heard his equipment involves laser and such. I wounder if good quality raw material is the problem or his tech shortcomings? Perhaps your advise would improve his work. Pix will be posted within 24 hrs. Thanks in advance.
  21. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  22. 1 point
    rodabod

    ETA 2892A2 Amplitude

    In my opinion there should be more oil on the pallet stones. Have a look at the BHI lubrication guide. However, it should run well with that amount only. Did you use an actual breaking grease on the mainspring and did the barrel wall show signs of wear?
  23. 1 point
    Tmuir

    Tool Identification and Use

    It's a pedestal stand and riveting stakes. It allows you to hold the stake with one finger and support the item with the rest of your hand. Basically it lets you do work that you would normally need a thirs hand for. That picture is showing a minute hand been driven onto a pocket watch. I'll take a photo of the page from Britten's Watch and Clockmakers handbook
  24. 1 point
    You can kill it or cure it with electrical spray contact cleaner.spray it into the gears flush out the gunk.let it dry completely.slightest bit of oil on the shaft holes.make sure the cleaner is plastic safe.forget taking the movement apart.
  25. 1 point
    TexasDon

    Watch of Today

    A recent acquisition that's almost instantaneously become a favorite. Wenger SeaForce, special edition Arctic Lights. Swiss quartz movement. So far, it's proving to be very accurate.
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