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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/2012 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Sometimes with old movements after you go through the normal cleaning cycles including pegging the jewels, you still find old oil that has turned to hard varnish left in the oil sinks. This has happened to me on a few occasions and I started thinking there has to be an easier way than soaking in acetone and going through the pegging process again. A couple of weeks ago I was at the dentist and found the answer in my mouth............the ultrasonic probe. When returned home, I fired up my iPad and started searching eBay for a second hand dental unit and got lucky. I managed to get the unit for my initial bid of £40 complete with five new sterile probes. It was only after buying it I realised it had to be plumbed into a water supply, and I didn't think my good lady would fancy a hose connection in the kitchen, and I certainly didn't fancy cleaning watch movements in the garden. The problem was solved by purchasing a 5ltr garden sprayer for £8. Now that I had all the kit it was time to try it out, so an old movement plate was found with the necessary hard residue in the jewel. The result to say the least was staging, a gentle clean lasting about 10-20 seconds per side and the jewels were spotless. I just love lateral thinking! Below are some pictures to let you see the setup and the results. I only cleaned two of the jewels in the plate. The complete setup. The control box. Water must be flowing when in use, and don't touch the brass with the probe. Two jewels cleaned. Spotless!
  2. 8 points
    I just thought I'd share this as it may be useful for another learner. By far the most difficult thing I've come across starting out in watch repair has been correcting bends in hairsprings. I've got the right tools, the right light, a powerful eye glass and a pile of scrap watches I've been practicing on. But I found time after time I was just making the hairsprings worse. I think part of my problem is that I'm slightly dyslexic and I find looking at the spiral really confusing sometimes. But I had a bit of break through last weekend which has dramatically improved my technique. Quite simply, I hold my eye glass up to my iPhone lens and take a close up picture of the hair spring. I then make a cup of tea and sit and look at the photo, zoom right the way in and really think about what I'm going to do. This is so much more effective than hunching over the hairspring and straining my eyes for long periods and losing patience. Once I've really thought about what I'm going to do, I go back to the hairspring with a clear strategy, ie, slight bend in, fourth from the centre at 3 o'clock. I apply the bend, take another picture and repeat. I know it sounds simple, but it's been a huge help to me and I'm finally having success
  3. 8 points
    Mark

    Need Feedback my microwatches

    All links and content removed. We take a dim view here of members who sign up with a sole agenda for promoting their wares, much much better to become an established and respected member of the community by contributing in a meaningful way like everybody else does
  4. 7 points
    I had a need to safely remove a C clip holding in two pusher buttons and thought I would share my method on the forum. I had a spring bar removal tool with a solid pin on one end and a scalloped forked end on the other. I placed a small bit of rodico on the bottom side of the clip and turned the C <- gap facing up. As you can see in the picture, I simply used the forked end that was the perfect gap to push off the c clips. I installed by getting the clip in place, C gap facing down, and used a #200 flat screwdriver blade and carefully pressed down to lock in place. I used the case wall to keep the c clip and push button slit in line. Don't attempt to push the c clip back on with the button pressed all the way in, use the wall of the case to help keep the clip straight in line. Hope this helps someone.
  5. 7 points
    Mark

    Omega 268 Service And De-Rust

    This nice Omega came in with a seized up keyless work. The crown could not be pulled out to hand set position and the watch could not be wound. I immediately suspected rust. Getting the movement out of the case was a challenge because the crown could not be pulled out. But luckily I could unscrew the crown from the stem as the stem was seized. With the movement out of the case, I can see evidence of rust. Time to get stripping (the watch). First challenge was unscrewing this dial screw which was rusted in place. A bit of oil and some gentle persuasion and it unscrewed. With the dial off I can see the extent of the damage which is quite bad - but not the worst I have seen. Off with the hour wheel: And the setting lever spring: And this is as far as I could get. That stem was not coming out, but I have an idea! ...
  6. 7 points
    Hamish

    Making A Watchband

    Hi, A couple of members seemed interested in how i make a watch band. They are by no means perfect, but are functional and seem to last the test of time. This one is made from farmed crocodile. The skin is cheaper to buy in a non-dyed state. This skin was bought locally in Melbourne, it was around a meter long and cost $95. The tools required are a new scalpel, awl, glue, hole punches, a gas torch and mid size screwdriver, needle and good quality waxed thread, sealer and dye for the sides and coffee leather dye. The other materials are kid leather strips (suede side out, very comfortable, but up to you) and some scrap leather for filler. (Above) I have made up some templates. These are paper, but clear hard plastic seems best as you can see the grain underneath. I look for matching patterns. From this hide I rough cut the band and the keepers. (Above) The slide shows the croc and the kid liner. The keepers will be lined also. The croc has been dyed. The two strips to the left are the band pad scraps. On some bands I like a lot of padding, sometimes three layers so it appears curved, but on these watches just one layer is best and only part of the way down the band. This stiffens up the band well. It is important to have the band not too stiff or too supple and also tapering in thickness towards the buckle ends. (Above) This pic shows the reverse sides of the croc with the padding in place. I use water based glue. I find drying time varies with the amount applied which gives you good control and it is super-flexible. The spring bar ends have been folded over. They will be double stitched later. (Above) Liner glued to croc. Keepers/liners glued. (Above) Shaping complete. One fixed keeper attached under liner. Buckle end is folded over under liner. Wait for glue to dry. (Above) Reverse side. You might be able to pick up how I have done the spring bar end. Should be strong with double stitching later. (Above) I use a heated screw driver flat to smarten up the leather edges. Not for too long though. Really helps to get a nice curve on the end of the band. (Above) I use inks to dye the side sealer. This one is black and after mixing I apply it with a cotton bud - seems to work for me ok. The fiddly parts can be applied with a small flat brush. Take care not to get the sealer on either the leather or the liner as it is impossible to get off, once dry. I have never seen this stuff peel or flake. (Above) I use a sharp awl and just eyeball the holes. Make sure you hold the awl vertically and not at an angle. The band is ready for stitching. I use good quality waxed thread. Better to have the thread a bit too long that short. I sometimes dye the thread, but these days tend to use white a bit...all depends on personal preference I guess. Anyway now you can sit back for around two hours and stitch away. (Above) The finished product. I have tried many products to finish the croc, but have found simple neutral shoe polish great. Put some on with a cloth and just brush off when dry. (Watch is a 'Cymaflex' watersport with dial patina...fairly common watch I think). Happy to provide further detail if you would like also more than happy if you see ways I can improve. Hamish.
  7. 6 points
    Mark

    Time To Wind Down.

    My current favourite. I've been looking forward to this all day. No doubt followed later with a nip or two: It's winding down time folks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 6 points
    arkobugg

    DOXA Searambler 1968 project

    Hello to you all folks, thought I should share this story with you ,,,, Then I finally completed my big project "Doxa Searambler 300T from 1968" which I have been working on from March 11 to June 27 this year, for about 14 weeks. And I have to say very happy, although I have not yet managed to find a good solution on the BoR link. Have been in contact with the Doxa factory via an acquaintance who is AD in Sweden, so let's see what gets there. But anyway, here's the story: Bought this on March 11 in miserable condition, see photo 1. It was pretty messed up after been worn after 50 years of use as a professional dive watch, so all of the marks were gone on the bezel ring, the glass was scratched, really needed a service, see photo 2 and 3. Some had also tried to change the casetube and crown without knowing how to do this. And should rather been doing things they fully master insted. The casetube was inserted with an wrong angel into the case, so the result was that the crown did not enter the movment right. See photo 4. To fix this, the old casetube had to be drilled out / pulled out. This one was not fastend good enought, so I could just pulled it out. If this is done right, they is stuck like hell. .. See photo 4. you can see the red line that shows the correct angle into the case, while the casetube that was mounted befor was incorrectly angeled into the case, see the blue line. A incorrect crown was also inserted, the original crown is 6.92 mm in diameter and 4.60 mm high, stem thread is 0.9 mm. The one sitting here was far too small and is completely wrong compared to the original. The dial was very spotty and had lots of marks after many dives. And that the lume had got the greyish color. See photo 5. So full dismantling was needed, stripping everything, movment out, glass out, bezel ring dismantled from the case, cleaning of all parts. So when everything was cleaned up, the build-up could begin. First the old case tube had to be drilled and pulled out, so it was dismantled, and the new casetube was inserted with a crown. See photo 6. Found a crown that is quite similar in appearance and about the same size. Doxa is known to have very little parts to these olde watch available unfortunately. So finding original casetube with crown seems like a pretty impossible task. See photo 6. Did service work on the movment, ETA 2783, no parts had to be replaced, just a little tightening of canon pinion, because it was a little loose in motion. Painted bezel ring by original colors. See photo 7. When it comes to the dial, I wanted a crisp and fresh dial, so I chose to use an friend of mine who is an specialist in restoring dials, and who is the real magician when it comes to repaint of dials. See for yourself....See photo 8. Lumes on the hands and indexes was put on by me, had to mix ut a certain light cream color lume to match ut the right patina. Also managed to source a glass made according to original spec. which was fitted. Then after about 3 months, all parts were mounted in place, the work was installed, the test round was done with brilliant results. And I could finally take this piece of jewelry on my arm ... See photo 9. Beautiful!!! Go...Go....Switzerland !!!
  9. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  10. 6 points
    When I joined the site I had only a passing interest in clocks but I have over the last couple of years started to buy more and more they are starting to take over every shelf window ledge and free space I have here are just a few of the clocks I have picked up over the last 6 months. The first one is a Walnut Lenzkirch ting tang clock bought off the bay of evil, I paid £70.00 and had to go to Hull to collect it, the clock had suffered quite a bit of neglect over its 100 plus years and had been stored somewhere damp it had areas of lifting veneer. all the varnish had deep scratches and the movement suffered from a fair bit of rust in fact when I picked it up my heart sank here are a few picks before I started working on the clock. I have cleaned the movement, I use brasso cotton wadding and clean by hand, and brasso and a medium brush to clean the wheels and small parts I then wash in nothing more than warm soapy water and clean out the pivot holes using pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol for the larger holes, and cotton thread or peg wood for the smaller holes I then dry and brush with french chalk pivots are burnished on my lathe I usually replace all taper pins on a clock of this age as most are pretty chewed up the springs are removed inspected, replaced if needed and oiled. The bulk of the work on this clock was on the case the lifting veneer was glued and clamped in place, there was a crack running down the middle of the clock front I have filled this with filler, I use a white filler and paint the surface once dry and sanded with watercolour paints to match the colour of the wood there are various coloured fillers available but I find these a waste of time. The back door panel was broken into four parts, it had been glued at some point in it's life but was a bit of a mess, I removed the old glue then re glued and clamped until dry, I have replaced the cloth on the back door the old cloth had rotted, having no knowledge of what the cloth was I have replaced it with a red satin cloth I have no idea if this is the correct cloth to use. The vast majority of clocks of this age are varnished with shellac based varnishes it was in such poor state the only option was complete removal, this I do with very fine steel wool 0000 grade soaked in methylated spirits I would never use sandpaper on a clock case other than on small filled areas, the steel wool breaks the surface of the varnish and allows the spirits to do the work after a bit of light rubbing the varnish turns to a sludge that can be wiped of with a cloth, again soaked in spirits the advantage of steel wool is it kinder to the wood surface and can be easily worked into corners and detailed areas. I then french polish the case leaving a hour between coats after every 5th coat i rub down again with very fine wire wool and start again applying coats it is a time consuming process and there is no easy way to do it. French polish will darken quite quickly with age but you can add spirit dyes to it if you wish to change the colour or if the colour is not to your liking. The dial and bezel where cleaned and polished then re laquered and the inner bezel cleaned re silvered and laquered This clock has a plaque on the front it was a gift to the Rev T. Salusbury Jones from the congregation of his first pastorate in 1901, I can never resist looking up the people on these plaques. Clocks where a very popular gift to vicars in the 1900's and I have three such clocks, the Rev Salusbury Jones had three sons whilst at Sutton Valence church sadly two lost their lives in the trenches of the great war and there is a local Sutton Valence history web site that tells the story of how his sons where killed in the war. I still have a little work to do on the clock the gongs where rusty so I have cleaned them with fine wire wool but I need to blue them but they are quite large so im thinking of buying a electric hotplate so I can blue them and any others I may have to do in future. I also need to clean the decorative band around the top it just needs cleaning with a cotton bud and spirits as it has residue from rubbing with the wire wool and looks a bit dirty. The next two clocks are french striking clocks with slate cases the Brocot is a 14 day duration by Samuel Marti the other is a 8 day by Richard and co. Both are rack striking movements and are very easy to work on I think they are more prone to wear on the striking train but are generally very robust movements. Both these clocks where very grey in appearance when bought, the easiest way to restore these cases rather than buying the various potions available is to rub the case with baby oil, Literally 2 drops on a duster and a bit of elbow grease and all the grey areas return to black you really do not need to use a lot once the case is back to black use a wax polish and case comes up like new. I also love carriage clocks and when ever I see them cheap on Ebay I buy them three of the clocks in the next picture cost no more than 30 pounds with the cheapest being £22.00 bought from a antiques centre the same day I picked the Lenzkirch up from hull I try where possible to buy with original platform escapements but where they have been replaced with modern ones I replace as soon as I can, as is the case with the next clock Two things attracted me to the above clock the shape of the case and the buy it now price of £30.00 free postage it was listed as not working, but the only thing wrong is it hadnt been cleaned in a very long time, the clock had a new platform fitted I would guess in the 60's 70's so I have replaced it with one from the late Victorian period that is correct for the period this clock was made I have re laquered the case with a mid gold Horolaq laquer. I source platforms from antique centres and ebay there are many unloved clocks hanging around antique centres and if it's cheap and has a platform I buy it and use it for parts the platform I used in this clock came from a clock with a case beyond repair and missing its back but the platform was good it cost me £8.00. I haven't really gone into detail on how I clean a clock in this post and the light has been against me today as far as photography has gone but I have a clock hopefully coming next week so will do a full walk through of how I clean a clock and hopefully any one who spots any thing wrong in what I do will tell me.
  11. 6 points
    hofnerpres

    Escape wheel wear pictures

    Hello guys I've been renovating quite a few 1960s Seikos recently and a couple have shown very scattered traces on the timegrapher and generally ratty running after cleaning. All three responded to a new escape wheel very well. Being unable to see the wear using normal magnification I decided to try one of the £15 USB microscopes available on fleabay. They are too light, the software is hit and miss but glue it onto a heavy base and they will do the job. The difference between a good and bad wheel became obvious. The square corners get rounded off by the fork pallet jewels and precision is lost. The first two shots are from a worn 6602B and a 7625A Auto. Note the rough finish but 50 years ain't bad - neither watch back showed any servicing marks and were bone dry. The third shot is also a 6602 but it's a good performer - note square edges. The last is from my new baby - King Seiko 4402. Very different quality. Three lessons. 1. These devices are fine for simple close examination. 2. Don't neglect oiling the escape pallets - it's tricky but worth the effort 3. Once you've handled a part with your fingers it needs cleaning again - it's horrifying how many skin particles appear.
  12. 6 points
    Hello Jeremy Let me know if you can follow this. I hope this helps. Here are some images of a similar movement that wuill help provide more visual guidance: JC
  13. 6 points
    Our great member, Geo offered to help me out recently should a UK supply company not shipping to Finland, Geo stepped up, and has proved his weight in gold, transhipping my order. Thanks G!
  14. 6 points
    jdm

    Watch of Today

    Monday afternoon is already Cocktail Time! Oh no I'm on a diet!
  15. 6 points
    As promised, here is my attempt at replacing a broken Balance staff. I broke the staff over 3 years ago and am now starting the process. I have been slowly amassing the proper tools to do the job and have been studying and hanging out on forums such as this one. While i am very mechanically inclined i have no experience whatsoever and I realize that reading and watching videos is no substitute for real world experience. Having said all that, how hard could it be... I bought the replacement staff from ebay three years ago. Research came up with a 1703A staff which I am told is for the later runs of the 1892 movement. Long waist versus short waist. The main tools I will be using will be my K&D 600 staking set which i had a lot of fun restoring and am still working on completing. I believe this was a set that was purchased to complete another set as the jeweling attachment is missing the lever. But most of the stakes are there as well as the stumps and the die plate is in excellent shape. The roller remover is the most recent purchase and was bought from Uncle Larry's. Unfortunately the No1 stake was broken. Was not able to see the damage when I purchased it. Hopefully this was an honest oversight and not hidden on purpose. Luckily, my staking set had a set of three stakes and two anvils that turned out to be for a roller remover set. the one I purchased is a C,E, Marshall set. The broken staff and the start of my journey into the world of Horology The first thing that needs to be done is remove the hairspring from the balance. After marking the stud position on the balance rim, the balance was placed in the die plate of the staking tool (I don't have a bench block yet) and a screwdriver was inserted into the split collar and gently twisted the collar back and forth and the hairspring slid right off. A set of hand levers would have been a better choice, but they are still on my too purchase list. I do wonder if using the twist off method opens up the split collar to any degree? The first of many questions to come. The next step is to remove the roller table. For this, the balance was placed in the anvil which was placed in the die plate and a light tap on the No. 2 stake and the staff still attached to the balance dropped straight down leaving the two part roller assembly. When I see the tips of these stakes broken, and how little force is required to do the job, how in the heck does one manage to break them?? So far so good Now on to the staff removal. I was fortunate to find a K&D balance staff remover tool among the parts when doing inventory of the staking set. Once i reviewed the videos on it's use it was time to try it out myself. I found the larger of the two stakes fit the staff the best. I think the thinner of the two is for wristwatch size staffs. Once I had figured out how to set up the remover in the staking tool, all it took was two light but firm taps with the hammer on the stake and the staff was lying at the bottom of the staking tool. There is no apparent damage to the balance at all. The two staffs side by side. I will measure to be sure as best I can, but the replacement looks to be correct. So far the removal has been a success, and i hope the installation of the new staff goes as well. I wonder if this is a friction fit staff due to the ease of removal of the old one? Any thoughts from the pocket watch crowd? The installation of the staff will have to wait until she who must be obeyed renovation projects are brought up to speed. Ordered my new Bergeon screwdrivers and the first of the mobious oil to keep me happy in the meantime. The cheap indian screwdrivers were a joke to say the least and was comical watching the tips fall out every time you went to use them and stripping the set screws in frustration. Madame is off to New York city in a week, so perhaps i will get time to attempt the staff install then... Ron...
  16. 6 points
    david

    This Forum

    I used to belong to another forum that initially was a platform for a free exchange of ideas. Unfortunately the forum was hijacked by two horological know-it-all's who were legends in their own minds. If somebody would post an article that had information they never thought of, they would post a response stating that "they were doing it incorrectly" or "they gave incorrect information". Often their post would start out with the phrase "DON'T YOU EVER". The owner of the forum was so impressed with their credentials that he made both of them moderators. Unfortunately for that forum the impressive credentials these two had did not manifest into evidence of either of them having any real horological knowledge. Neither of them ever posted anything of great value to the rest of us who wanted to learn. The forum members who did contribute ended up either leaving or no longer passed tips and discoveries on to the other members. From what I have seen so far, this forum is set up in a much nicer member friendly way. I am glad to have found it and hope it continues to remain that way. david
  17. 6 points
    Hello! So I made myself some sort of back-light for working on hairsprings. I took the top from a Mammut chair from Ikea and put some l.e.d.'s in it. I also got a 10mm plexiglass piece (about 2cm/5cm) and put 3 holes in it (2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm). I think it works great! Thank you, Bogdan
  18. 6 points
    Well here she is, back from the dead ( land of rust ). Always nice to have a watch return to form, especially one so damaged. Im a total addict and this is my fix :)
  19. 5 points
    clockboy

    Look at this beauty "William Goffe"

    I have been asked to look this beauty. It is heavy and is real quality and the name on the dial is (I think) is William Goffe. On initial inspection it looks like the cord /gut has broken from one of the barrels. Also to open the front is via a key which is missing, I will investigate in a few weeks as I am away on a short break. I must say I can't wait to delve.
  20. 5 points
    FLwatchguy73

    Watch of Today

    I recently acquired a Citizen "box-o-parts" from the Bay. I got it because it had parts for a Citizen Jet which I need a proper case for mine. There was included several cases, dials hands, misc gears and 2 movements. When it arrived I found that one movement was a 27 jewel Jet with the automatic rotor assembly in pieces and missing the rotor weight. The other movement turned out to be a complete mid 60's 21 Jewel, Crystal seven. The balance was good and the mainspring was intact. I gave it a wind and it attempted to run. So I thoroughly cleaned it, assembled and lubed it and it took off running like a champ. I matched up a dial, hands and a complete case in the parts provided, and now, here it is on my wrist adding miles to the odometer. Yes, the crown is mismatched, but only I, and you, will know, lol.
  21. 5 points
    Depth of lock is something that you get a feel for when inspecting escapements. It needs to be deep enough to ensure that it is safely locked, and you can move the pallet fork across very slightly, release, and observe the “draw” to see what the action is like. On modern watches like these, I very rarely adjust thw locking. On adjustable banking pins (or at least bend-able), you always have to check it and will often find that they have been mis-adjusted. It seemed to be a common misconception that opening the banking pins was a quick fix for mis-locking. Bear in mind that if the pallet stones were moved to change the depth of lock then this also adjusts the drop. The angle of drop is wasted energy from the escapement as potential impulse is not translated into the balance while the escape wheel is disengaged from the pallets.
  22. 5 points
    oldhippy

    Unknown tool

    It is for Barrels. Here is a photo of the type I had. The top gaps and bottom are for the width of the m/springs.
  23. 5 points
    nickelsilver

    Rodico

    A couple of tricks from industry guys, not Brand approved but proven at the bench: Uhu Patafix, the yellow one, is a decent Rodico substitute that doesn't leave visible residue. The white one doesn't work. You can't touch it with your fingers, only cots or the pegwood trick from above. The other one is contact cement. When dealing with black polished steel parts, in a new watch, they have to be impeccably clean. The trick is to dip toothpicks in the contact cement, so just a little bulb is at the tip, and set aside to dry. When casing up, any small marks or bits of stuff that won't blow off can be picked up with the tacky cement (it stays tacky a long time). It won't leave a residue on the steel. The fellow who told me this one used the cheapest contact cement he could find, it was some offbrand stuff. I tried Continental tire glue for bicycles (the one for gluing on racing tires, not patching inner tubes) and it worked fine.
  24. 5 points
    Tmuir

    BSA C15

    It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.
  25. 5 points
    clockboy

    Historic watch repair tools

    See this vid of some really amazing historic watch tools enjoy:
  26. 5 points
    Chopin

    Names of movement parts

    I know what you mean, sometimes these things are pretty hard to find. It's probably a bit difficult to do this as each movement has it's own type and it's parts and you won't really find one movement to show all types of parts. Here's a couple of images that should help.
  27. 5 points
    Deggsie

    Watch of Today

    Made in Croydon circa 1938, a lovely example of a pin pallet movement. Sadly I sacrificed two hairsprings to achieve the geometry I was looking for. Very pleased with the accuracy given its age. I’d love to put it on a timegrapher to check the beat error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 5 points
    oldhippy

    Pin Pallet Beat

    The pivots on these pocket watches need to have a sharp point. I used to re-point them in my lathe using an arkansas stone with a drop of oil. You need to make sure the cups are good as they wear on the inside and can be very rough. You should be able to get an estimate where to pin by refitting the balance and threading the hairspring so the impulse pin is in the centre of the pallet fork.
  29. 5 points
    This is Elgin 18 from the late 19th century. I really like the watch, but it needs a lot - hands, balance staff, hairspring and crystal. Anyway, I just could not get the bezel to unscrew, impossible to get a grip. I found a video by tshackantiques on how to remove bezels (or backs) using a hot glue gun. I couldn't believe how well it worked! Run a bead of hot glue carefully around the bezel. The heat expands the bezel which helps. Stick the lid from an appropriately sized jar to the bezel. While the glue is still in a plastic state, it has a lot of holding power and the grip the lid gives makes it a piece of cake to unscrew the bezel. When cool, it does not stick to the metal and picks off very easily.
  30. 5 points
    ricardopalamino

    Watch of Today

    I finally latched onto a nice Accutron "Woody " after making several attempts in the past . I can honestly say that I really like this 218 Accutron , probably as much as my 214 Astronaut .
  31. 5 points
    Federico

    Just sharing my latest projects

    Hello all just wanted to share my latest project watches. The first is a vintage Arnex skeleton movement in a pilot watch case with a white skeleton dial. Waiting to get some chocolate brown ostrich leg straps to finish it. For my second project watch I wanted to make a custom pocket watch. This project was the most time consuming as of yet. The movement needed a new balance staff and whoever poised this one before I left quite a lot of issues. I think I spent about 14 hours getting it poised. I thought I would never finish it but one day it was finally perfect. Anyway, here it is a 992b pocket watch movement in a keystone base metal case and fancy number dial: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  32. 5 points
    RyMoeller

    Poljot Sturmanskie 3133

    About a week back I picked up this Sturmanskie after following @Endeavor and @GeorgeClarkson through the service of their Soviet chronographs. The seller stated the watch dated from 1988 and included the original receipt and box. Unfortunately, I cannot read Cyrillic so I was forced to take the seller at his word; regardless of it's origin though, the watch is a beautiful specimen and I'm happy to have it. Unfortunately I was unable to remove the caseback until today. I took Roland's advice and used a jeweler's hammer and a sharp razor to work my way around the caseback slowly creating enough of a gap for a case knife to exploit. It was a nerve-wracking experience! In the end, the caseback came away with no damage to the watch. I'm always very anxious to gaze upon a new chronograph movement- it's certainly geeky but I'm not afraid to admit it. It looks like I'm not the first to open this case though. Many screws have marks on them indicating they've been removed at some point in the past and replaced. I believed this movement to be 31659, but alas, there is no hacking mechanism that I can see. Over all the movement is in good shape and appears complete. It will need a proper cleaning before it's ready to wear and I'll be sure to post about it when I have the chance.
  33. 5 points
    atimegoneby

    Surpise gift

    Yesterday we went to visit our old neighbours for tea & mince pies before Christmas. When we arrived they presented me with an old leather bound box, inside was a collection of vintage watches like a mini treasure chest, Swiss makes I've not heard of before plus others, one even working ! enough to keep me busy for a while.
  34. 5 points
    matabog

    Mig 21 Chronograph

    update. The planes are Herpa models
  35. 5 points
    ricardopalamino

    60's Glycine Airman....

    I had sold this watch to a collector here on Oahu , Hawaii , and he put some money down on it with the intention of paying off the rest in a short period of time . Unfortunately the buyer became burdened with other financial obligations and after a couple of months I returned his down payment and this baby is all mine again . From what I have read and using the serial # , it is a 1964 Model with the AS 1700 / 01 movement . I have had the back off and the movement is very clean with no signs of corrosion , scratches , or dirt . There are no markings from watchmakers and there is a Glycine Hallmark on the inner case back . It is an Automatic with the distinctive internal wire used for the hacking . All functions of the watch work properly and it keeps good time . It has a 24 hour movement instead of the usual 12 hour movement found in most watches . I used to think that the crown had been changed because it did not have the cross hatch design on it , but after some reading I found out that that feature was introduced the following year ,...1965 . Mine has the red date wheel that was changed to black in the early 60's , but I also read that various configurations come up in regards to dial markings and other features during this transformation period . All I have done to it is install a canvas top / cordura underside watch band reminiscent to those sold during that period . I also installed a crystal with the trapezoid magnifier , and repaint the bezel numbers . http://andres55.home.xs4all.nl/frames/airman25years.htm http://www.glycintennial.com/serial-no.---calibers.html
  36. 5 points
    szbalogh

    How i make a watch stem

    A friend of mine asked if i want to make a stem for him. I have improved my hardware and wanted to try so happily accepted Not in the Dremel now. Here the pulley wheel is serving as a dividing plate with 4 holes making sure that the rectangle cross-section will be perfect. Turning with help of a microscope, no loupe at all. A thin glass strip is hot glued on the "T-rest" which has two purpose. The file is sliding on it easily and it is making sure that the sides will be parallel. Still a lot to file down. The workpiece is a spoke of a Chehoslovak Favorit road racer. Even tungsten carbide is softer if hardened.
  37. 5 points
    uzii

    My Atmos

    This is my Atmos cal 528 story circa ~1960 – its been years that I’ve put my eyes on Atmos clocks looking in its beauty and clean / sharp looking as well as their technical structure. In the country where I live, I’ve never saw any Atmos clock new or pre-owned for sale therefore I decided to buy on Ebay. At that time, I didn’t think that I’ll have to fix it I just want this “furniture” at my saloon. When unpacking the clock at home, I figured out that the chain is broken. I can’t tell if this happened due to shipment or it was originally broken but no matter - it was broken and here is where the adventure starts…(broken chain means winding mechanism is out of order). As watch/clock hobbyist, there was of course only one option – jump into it, ignoring those who claims that even the experienced and professional clockmakers shouldn’t touch Atmos without the proper skills and knowledge. I’ve started to read the available material on the WEB, spending time to understand each and every step. I bought also the repair PDF notes with explanations and dedicated tools like hands remover since without it, you will damage the minute pivot. Repair notes: Hand remover: Also, I couldn’t find a proper screwdriver since for some reason, the standard screwdrivers blades are 0.6mm or 0.8mm while this screws require 0.7mm blade. Important to mention is that without perfect fit, the screws will be damaged and if there something I hate is to see those signs on the screws because of using improper screwdriver (or sometimes due to non-skilled hands). Therefore, I took 0.8mm and resized it to 0.7mm. Also, need to say that this screws are having a large “cap” so once they are tightened, they are very difficult to be removed. One of the screws: Another mission was to get new chain but this was found easily online. It took me about 5 month to complete the study and buy everything. Before I started the work, I did few inspections looking for other potential issues: 1) I manually wind up the spring to the desired tension (according to the spec). I found the clock is running although the amplitude was lower than the spec (spec is 360 – 540 deg). 2) I checked that the bellow is functioning – measuring at room temperature and after refrigerator. It looks that bellow is ok In order to replace the chain, I had to remove the dial, bellow, motor, front plate and the main spring. I didn’t disassemble the balance system as in my inspection, it was looking functioning properly. I disassemble the motor gears and cleaned the holes. I also disassemble the mainspring and cleaned it and oil it. It looks that the clock wasn’t serviced for a long time. There are only few points to lubricate the clock. Most of the friction points must not be lubricated! Then I installed the new chain following the instructions of the required distance between the ratchet and the bellow to allow the optimal torque for the windup process. Then, I’ve put everything back and wind-up the main spring manually to its base level means that from this point on, the bellow will wind-up the mainspring according to the thermal changes and the power that ran-out from the spring. The clock came back to life and I was able to monitor the mainspring winding up properly. This can be done by following a moving red point located on the barrel arbor ratchet winding system. The chain and the red dot: The clock is running ~2 years keeping excellent time after this service however, the amplitude is about 330 and even less, while the spec requirement is 360-540 deg. I’m trying to look for the reason but so far I didn't found. There is still work to do but so far I’m really proud of it. This is just beautiful, I hope you like it:
  38. 5 points
    Endeavor

    How to Polish a Watch Case and Bracelet

    Colin Andrews, with his informative webpage: http://great-british-watch.co.uk just came out with this very educational polishing article; http://great-british-watch.co.uk/how-to-polish-a-watch-case-and-bracelet/ Thought people may be interested to know.......
  39. 5 points
    rustycolt

    1949 Longines Project

    So my intentions of journalling my progress of this project seemed to have gone awry. It has been complete for some time now, and I was so focussed on the work itself, as well as a few deadline issues, that I failed to record my progress with words or photos. With apologies out of the way, it's better late than never, here's a basic recap of how things went: I decided to send out the case and crown for replacing. The 10K RGP finish on it was in decent condition, with a little bit of honest wear, and more than a few service engravings. I wanted the finished watch to reflect some of the history of itself, so I took care of the preparation and polishing myself, making sure to improve the appearance without buffing out the sentimentality. The replating was a cosmetic decision. Mrs RustyColt dislikes yellow gold, and I was concerned that may discourage her from wearing this watch, regardless of emotional connection. I found a plating service in Vancouver, BC that could do the parts in 18K rose gold, and was fairly pleased with the results. It turns out that the plater I chose does not do a lot of watches, and I think that they are used to much larger parts. In the end, all was well. The dial also went out for refinishing. It was my first foray into this, so (partly) based on the experiences of others in the WRT forums, I decided to sub out the job to International Dial Co. Having heard that the achilles of them is their often unpredictable and lengthy turnaround time, I was sure to get the dial to them a full 3 months prior to Mrs RC's birthday (when I was hoping to present it to her). Needless to say I did not make that deadline, but I was satisfied with the workmanship of International in the end. As I had changed the case from yellow to rose gold, I had International change the hands and dial indicators to match. All in all, I was pleased with those results as well. Servicing took place while the parts were out. The Longines 10L is one of the nicer movements I have had the pleasure of working on in my brief foray into watch repair, and it was a truly pleasurable experience to have hands on such a finely made piece. On final assembly, it became evident that there was damage to the balance staff pivot which would require a replacement. I was able to source a scrap movement from eBay, which yielded a suitable replacement. This was a rather nerve-wracking part of the process however, as I have had very poor results with any hairspring work I have done thus far, and the replacement balance staff needed to have the original hairspring transferred to it. Patience won the day, and the transplant succeeded. I was able to install and poise the replacement, and at this point, I was still on schedule for the birthday presentation. I still had to replace the missing crystal and seconds hand, and for this I had taken some measurements and scoured Cousins catalogue for suitable parts. Those arrived around the time I was finishing up the service, and I was, once again, pleased with what was on hand. The crystal was bang on, and the seconds hand (I had ordered a couple different ones to see what would look best in the end) also worked out quite nicely. While it would have been nice to have had the seconds hand prior to sending off the dial and hands for refinishing so that it could have been done to match, I did end up satisfied with that being a contrasting black indicator. Regrettably, the only internal photos I have from the project are the ones I took during disassembly for reference. Joyfully, and without further ado, I present those, along with the finished product for your enjoyment:
  40. 5 points
    DJT2

    Sicura Chrono 17 Jewel Finished

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  41. 5 points
    JohnR725

    New Kind Of Adjustment For Me .

    What you have the is a Incastar Regulator system. I have attached images which explain and show how the regulator works.
  42. 5 points
    Marc

    Mainspring Issue.

    Get yourself a large steel or brass washer, big enough for the hole to be slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the mainspring barrel. Wind the mainspring into your winder, left handed or right handed, it doesn't matter. Install the mainspring into the hole in the washer. Transfer mainspring from washer to barrel as you would a new mainspring. Save yourself a fortune by equipping yourself with a good selection of large washers.
  43. 5 points
    Marc

    Dial Cleaning

    Immersing myself in a Sadler's Red IPA right now.
  44. 5 points
    Geo

    As 1882

    Here's mine, it's a set of wire cutters that I have drilled and tapped to accept a screw to limit the amount of squeeze that you give the pinion. If you go this route it is easy to make very small adjustments at a time until you get the correct fit. It can be done without using a drill or a mandrel in the pinion if you are very careful, but it is a lot safer to use one. Remember, this is a trial and error fitting exercise to get the best fit.
  45. 5 points
    WillFly

    Esa Worksheets

    Hi folks. A member of another watch forum is selling 2 large books of ESA worksheets dating roughly from 1980 to 1990 - some quartz, some electric/electronic and some auto - which I've agreed to buy. He lives in Brighton so I'm going to meet up with him next week and do the deal. I'm proposing to make them available on this forum for download. My first project, when I've received them and checked them, will be to list them and post the list here, prior to any conversion to PDF. Should any member need a particular sheet, I'll be happy to create a PDF of it and upload it here. Eventually it would be good to get each worksheet uploaded, but I can't say when that might be until I've got a better idea of quantity, etc. I hope this will be a useful resource for the forum. Cheers, Will
  46. 5 points
    Just a quick video to show my method of re-aligning the hairspring on the balance staff correctly after prior removal, just in case you have not marked or noted where the stud is before removal. Hope it's helpful to someone :) Watch here...
  47. 4 points
    watchrepair69

    Second project PATO

    Everithing Worked by CNC machine, eta 2825/2, sandwich Dial painting custom, strap hand made, Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1A utilizzando Tapatalk
  48. 4 points
  49. 4 points
    WillFly

    Woodworking for the clock DIY enthusiast

    I'm a complete amateur when it comes to woodworking, but one of my favourite guys on YouTube is a carpenter called Paul Sellers. You might be interested in his 8-part video series on making a wallclock (case). Episode 1 here Cheers, Will
  50. 4 points
    Chainstay

    My Very First Attempt

    Hello to everyone By chance I fell on the book "How to build your very first watch" by Tim Swike. As I have always been fascinated by watches i bought it. Found it very inspiring although it focuses on "customizing" and casing of watches. Went on to the web and found this amazing forum! For a novice this is absolutely fabulous and it makes you want to strive for the elegant dexterity displayed in Marks videos. He makes it look so simple and that should have been a warning to me... Anyway, in the days around Christmas several family members donated me six old non-working or obviously faulty working watches. It's amazing what people hides in their closets. I thought it was a splendid and cheap way to get into business, and I completed my first watch the other day. It's a "Wehrmann". Couldn't be wound and had a terrible rattle when shaked: The first two photos is before opening the case. It turned out that the only thing wrong was the ratchet wheel and its screw lay loose! I believe it's a Unitas 6325, one of the so-called "Wehrmachtswerke". The train wheel bridge differs from what I have found on the internet, but the movement-plate is identical with one I bought on ebay for spare parts. Of course I broke one of the Incablock-springs, the one in the movement plate, but I simply switched plates. The one in the balance cock I managed to preserve. I couldn't figure out how to replace the spring alone, as it seems to be non-separable from the movement plate (correct me here please). After cleaning (ultrasound) and re-assembly + lubrication I think I was struck by beginners luck, as it seems to work! I haven't got one of those fancy testing machines (yet), but measured on the app Twixt it looses 25,6 seconds per day which of course i far from impressive but that was not what it was all about with this otherwise useless watch. I did loose small parts in the project, especially the click spring a lot of times, but amazingly I found each little part again. Btw I found out that cleaning of the hands using ultrasound is no good idea - must have had a stroke there...:) So thank you for the forum - I have found a new hobby!
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