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Delgetti last won the day on August 1 2019

Delgetti had the most liked content!

About Delgetti

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  1. Rolex is more than Sub and GMT.
  2. Grease for the post, nothing for the cam:
  3. Hello, Rolex doesn't list single hairsprings, only timed balance complete. You need part Rolex 2030-4432.
  4. Can't help with advices for us hobbyists but the problem also hits the big ones. We had an event at the Patek Philippe depandance here in munich last year and they told us their watchmakers at the munich service center had the same problem. As they had a complete renovation anyway they finally built cleanrooms similar to computer chip manufacturing plants.
  5. I don't know if I really understand your question but the pics look like the regulator pin is missing.
  6. From my point of view there are many reasons possible. Here a picture of that spring, which is driven by the setting lever and slightly touching the balance. Engagement to lever could have slipped out, spring broken, spring bent, screw loosened ... I think you have to strip down the movement at least half the way to find out whats going on. So a complete service would make sense.
  7. I'm not familiar with that type of watch at all, but on your pic the hairspring looks absolutely not concentric. That will cause the coils touch each other and the watch will run way too fast.
  8. Thanks for the update, interesting problem. But I still didn't understand at which point the drop of amplitude occurs. Coupling clutch is out of the movement -> movement runs with about 250 amp, right? Coupling clutch is in the movement, chrono function is activated, chrono runner is out -> movement runs with about 250 amp, right? And so on, part by part. At which point of this reassembly part by part does the amplitude drop to 188?
  9. Ah, ok, as you mentioned 220 Amp with chrono running I didn't think about this area. So here are more candidates: - remove chrono runner friction spring nd observe amp (to check if tension was too high) - check engagement of driving wheel-clutch wheel-chrono runner (if its too high and teeth are touching the opposite wheels ground amp will collapse). Do the check with the chrono running for a whole minute in case not all the wheels are 100% concentric. I think you already checked that all bearings are absolutely clean and no teeth are damaged (esp on the runner).
  10. I don't think its about the mainspring but the area of the minute recorder. So I would check everything here: - recorder spring too much tension? - both bearings (minute recorder and gear) absolutly clean, not oiled and turning freely if blown with a blower - engagement of finger to gear and gear to minute recorder calibrated correctly by the excenters?
  11. Agree. As I only need the 29.5 size for me a single Bergeon 5523-5 was the answer.
  12. Here is a link which shows the situation with a rolex bracelet. https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=16727 It‘s nearly impossible to get things apart without damage. However, there are people out there who do it and repair such bracelets: http://www.classicwatchrepair.com/english/thecwrworkshop
  13. Here we go with part 2. Now it's easy to note, that I'm not a professional as the cleaning equipment is only... ehm... semi-professional. Special treatment for the balance and the pallet fork. The equipment for oiling and grease. Inserting the new mainspring. Reassembling the train bridge. Surprise: Much easier than on other watches, the parts fall into correct positions by themselves. Nice. Barrel bridge and ratchet system. The keyless works. Assembling and oiling the Pallet fork. The return of the balance. A drop of oil for the balance and escape wheel stones. Winding up and...it runs! Oops, some adjustment needed. Better. Reassembling the automatic device. Inserting the screws for movement and dial. Time for the cannon pinion and the hour wheel. Warning: On the next pic the washer orientation is wrong, flip it over so the round side is touching the hour wheel. Bringing back dial and hands (oh, I love those Maxi dials). Back in the case... ...and completed with the automatic device. Some grease for the gasket. Got it. It's called a wrist watch, so it's for the wrist not for the safe.
  14. Ok, due to the blurred pics here is the re-post - Part 1: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here a little walkthrough the servicing of my Rolex 5513, calibre 1520. Sorry for the funny english, I'm no native speaker. I'm not a professional watchmaker, this is only amateur-work. I start by opening the case, taking off the automatic device and disassemble it. Now I remove the movement and take off hands and dial. Removing the cannon pinion. Now it's time for the balance and the pallet fork. Continuing disassembling with ratchet and train wheels. Next one is the barrel bridge. I decided to use a new mainspring. Now it's time for the keyless works. On the other side of the movement the spring for stopping the balance. Removing the screws for the movement and the dial. And reassemble the balance for protection reasons. Ok, everything taken apart, ready for cleaning.
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