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Delgetti last won the day on August 1

Delgetti had the most liked content!

About Delgetti

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  1. Here we go with part 2. Now it's easy to note, that I'm not a professional as the cleaning equipment is only... ehm... semi-professional. Special treatment for the balance and the pallet fork. The equipment for oiling and grease. Inserting the new mainspring. Reassembling the train bridge. Surprise: Much easier than on other watches, the parts fall into correct positions by themselves. Nice. Barrel bridge and ratchet system. The keyless works. Assembling and oiling the Pallet fork. The return of the balance. A drop of oil for the balance and escape wheel stones. Winding up and...it runs! Oops, some adjustment needed. Better. Reassembling the automatic device. Inserting the screws for movement and dial. Time for the cannon pinion and the hour wheel. Warning: On the next pic the washer orientation is wrong, flip it over so the round side is touching the hour wheel. Bringing back dial and hands (oh, I love those Maxi dials). Back in the case... ...and completed with the automatic device. Some grease for the gasket. Got it. It's called a wrist watch, so it's for the wrist not for the safe.
  2. Ok, due to the blurred pics here is the re-post - Part 1: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here a little walkthrough the servicing of my Rolex 5513, calibre 1520. Sorry for the funny english, I'm no native speaker. I'm not a professional watchmaker, this is only amateur-work. I start by opening the case, taking off the automatic device and disassemble it. Now I remove the movement and take off hands and dial. Removing the cannon pinion. Now it's time for the balance and the pallet fork. Continuing disassembling with ratchet and train wheels. Next one is the barrel bridge. I decided to use a new mainspring. Now it's time for the keyless works. On the other side of the movement the spring for stopping the balance. Removing the screws for the movement and the dial. And reassemble the balance for protection reasons. Ok, everything taken apart, ready for cleaning.
  3. Hi Gary, when I created that thing I hosted the pics on photobucket for free (like many others, especially VRF/VRM-members). Meanwhile photobucket changed its conditions and requires monthly payment for hosting. I didn't pay (and will not in the future), so the pics are blurred. If wanted, I can repost the pics, but not in the next days as we have Oktoberfest right now here in munich.
  4. Here are some pics I took on a 7734 (7733 is the same just without date). And I agree that the start stop lever is really tricky. Before disassembly have a close look from the side, keep the layering in mind and take some photos.
  5. As far as I know Rolex developed a special grease for the barrel wall called Tepa. This is only availiable for certified dealers (so not for me). So when I had to lubricate the barrel wall of my 16600 sea dweller I used 8217. It works, watch runs great at about 300 amplitude. Of course I don‘t know if this will be the same on an clone.
  6. Well, I don't know the official terms because I'm only an amateur. What I meant saying "full wind" on the 1575 (which is of course an automatic) is: I turned the crown about 40 revolutions so that I'm absolutely sure the mainspring is in the "slipping area". Thats "full wind of an automatic" for me. Status update: After 30 hours the watch is 11 seconds ahead of the atomic clock. So the "about +9 result" of the timegrapher seems to make sense. I will observe until sunday evening if this is continuing.
  7. Thanks for the answers. A more detailed description first: I reassembled, oiled the pallets with 941 and let the watch run for 48 hours dial up. Then I did the poising and after a full wind the first measurement on the timegrapher with result +2/0/+2. Then I wore the watch (normal day in the company) for 24 h. Then after a full wind second measurement with result +9/+7/+9. So maybe the mistake was to let the watch run static in dial up position instead of "shaking" it while wearing? Or the period of 48 hours was too short? Right now the watch is on my wrist and I am observing the "real" gain compared to the atomic clock.
  8. I recently serviced a Rolex 1575. Everything demagnetized, clean and oiled. Finally I did some rounds of dynamic poising and got to this point: Dial up: 305°, +2 sec Crown up: 265°, 0 sec (I'm wearing the watch on the right wrist, so crown up is important to me) Crown left: 265°, +2 sec 24 hours later I found this: Dial up: 305°, +9 sec Crown up: 265°, +7 sec Crown left: 265°, +9 sec I don't get it. Amplitude didn't change, poise errors as before, but a faster running watch. Of course I will correct this, but I'm curious and want to understand what has happened here. Any Ideas?
  9. Hello, thanks for the feedback. I hope this is not impolite but I disagree about that pin. Have a look at the barrel bridge as HSL stated. I think that pin should be soldered here (black arrow).
  10. I think this is possible if there is very low friction to the cannon pinion. The balance and the trainwheels run but the cannon pinion and all following wheels and the hands do not as one of these parts is stuck somehow. I would try and analyze step by step. Take of dial, hands, hour wheel and intermediate wheel, put the minute hand on the cannon pinion and observe. If the minute hand does not stop at 12.05 take the next step and add the intermediate wheel and observe. After that add the hour wheel and so on until you find the step where the error occurs.
  11. About that small pin: Maybe it should be in the barrel bridge (left of the crown wheel) to ensure the positioning. https://www.buzzufy.com/product/landeron-248-barrel-bridge-part-for-chronograph-watch/
  12. Hm, is it possible, that the tube (or a part of it) of the little permanent second hand is still sticking on the pivot of the fourth wheel?How does the hand look?
  13. Rolex oiling charts say: Thin oil for balance and escape wheel pivots No oiling for pallet pivots Thick oil for the other wheels pivots
  14. Reseted to zero the hammer should press against the Heart of the Chrono Wheel and the wheel should really be fixed (Look from the side for a gap and try to rotate the wheel with a tooth pick). On the other hand there must be a small gap between the hammer and the heart of the minute counter Wheel.
  15. You have to move/rotate the collet. Have a look at Marks advices.
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