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Delgetti

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Delgetti last won the day on March 11

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About Delgetti

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  1. Hello, here is a list of the parts on the incabloc page: So 111.11 is the jewel with the hole, 121.11 and 122.11 are the cap jewels and 170.03 and 173.03 are the springs.
  2. Maybe the lever that grips into the sliding pinion has been put in upside down?
  3. Hello, you will find all information in this thread:
  4. You calculated 24 revolutions of the escape wheel per minute which is the error in my point of view. Looking at a working escapement you will find that it needs 2 beats to let the escape wheels move 1 tooth further. So the ew makes 12 revs per minute and your further calculation fits.
  5. Correct. The screws are used to put the right mass to the balance and poising it. If you want to enter the world of dynamic poising look here: https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/category/dynamic-posiing/
  6. I would correct the beat error first. Mark shows this here (4:00): Watchmakers often mark the correct position. So here I would try and turn the collet a bit anti clockwise until the stud lines up with the mark on the ring and then do another check on the timegrapher.
  7. Had a similar issue on a 248. In my case the part of the fly back lever which gets into contact with the pusher was bent.
  8. I think it's a gear ratio issue. A friend had a similar problem on a rolex 1570. He bought a spare part (in his case second wheel) on the internet. But the seller mixed parts of 1570 and 1530 which are very similar but have different numbers of teeth. So the wrong wheel fitted but established a wrong ratio. I would count the teeth on the wheels you replaced and compare that with the originals.
  9. Afaik the official version is you need a bezel removing tool which goes into the small gap and lets the bezel pop off. But it can also be done with a watchmaker knife: I never did this by myself so I don't know how big the risk of scratches/damage is .
  10. Welcome Paul. I must admit I'm a vintage Rolex fan and looking forward to follow your project here.
  11. @nucejoe: Some additional information. When the watch arrived everything worked but amplitude was poor (220 deg dial up). While disassembly I took a close look at every part for damages (bent pivots, broken teeth, etc). After a rough cleaning with cleaning sticks and pegwood (especially for the fine pivots and the jewels to wipe off the old dirty lube) I cleaned all parts in an ultrasonic with elma 1:9 (except balance, balance jewels and pallets which were cleaned in bergeon one dip). After that I washed off the water and soap in benzinum. While assembly I checked every part for dust/little hairs before it went in. I did a rough endshake check with a pair of tweezers. After oiling the pallets and the watch running for 24 hours it showed good results on the timegrapher (290 dial up/down, 245 hanging, no waves). At this point I normally stop analyzing and start drinking beer. I never came across adjusting springs for endstones. I just opened the springs, cleaned and oiled the jewels, put them back, closed the springs and everything worked.
  12. First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/ Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ). The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. The click spring. D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in. The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window). Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. Fly back lever goes in with some D5. Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel! At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. The hammer cam jumper. Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. The spring. 9501 for the contact point. Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again! The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in. Hour wheel with D5. The dial rest with its 3 screws. The date indicator. The date indicator driving wheel with some D5. The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long. The guard with 2 screws. Finally the spring. The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side. While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up. Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12. Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic. New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work. The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are. Thank you for watching.
  13. A funny one arrived today.
  14. Thank you. Evr tite looks very good, but it seems it's only available in the US? I think I will try the ATCH as I have a cousins order anyway. If this one doesn't fit I will go for the evr tite.
  15. I'm working on a 7734 chrono and the crystal has some very deep scratches. Polishing doesn't really work so I would like to replace it. But I dont know where to look on the cousins webpage. The crystal wears a ring with a tachymetre scale on the inner diameter. The wall seems to be absolutly cylindric not conic. Outer diameter is aprox. 33.2 mm, inner is aprox. 31.3 mm, height 4 mm. Any ideas?
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