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Delgetti

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Delgetti last won the day on March 11

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  1. You have to move/rotate the collet. Have a look at Marks advices.
  2. I'm also just an amateur, but do the work on my Rolex watches by myself. Of course they are expensive, but I take the risk. If I make a mistake, I have to pay for that. If you want to work on your Rolex watch, search youtube for "Rolex 3075 service" and you will find 3 excellent videos from Mark. 3075 has the same basic movement as the 3000.
  3. Be careful, those spring bars are only suitable for rolex watches with holes through the lugs. On modern daytonas (16520, 116520) you need this type: https://www.ebay.com/itm/310304839325?ul_noapp=true (This is just an example for the needed type, I don't know if the parts from this seller are good quality.)
  4. I think the flip would also occur as it is a result of the behavior of the complete system, not of the balance wheel only. Do you know this blog, very helpful: https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/category/dynamic-posiing/
  5. Hello, here is a list of the parts on the incabloc page: So 111.11 is the jewel with the hole, 121.11 and 122.11 are the cap jewels and 170.03 and 173.03 are the springs.
  6. Maybe the lever that grips into the sliding pinion has been put in upside down?
  7. Hello, you will find all information in this thread:
  8. You calculated 24 revolutions of the escape wheel per minute which is the error in my point of view. Looking at a working escapement you will find that it needs 2 beats to let the escape wheels move 1 tooth further. So the ew makes 12 revs per minute and your further calculation fits.
  9. Correct. The screws are used to put the right mass to the balance and poising it. If you want to enter the world of dynamic poising look here: https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/category/dynamic-posiing/
  10. I would correct the beat error first. Mark shows this here (4:00): Watchmakers often mark the correct position. So here I would try and turn the collet a bit anti clockwise until the stud lines up with the mark on the ring and then do another check on the timegrapher.
  11. Had a similar issue on a 248. In my case the part of the fly back lever which gets into contact with the pusher was bent.
  12. I think it's a gear ratio issue. A friend had a similar problem on a rolex 1570. He bought a spare part (in his case second wheel) on the internet. But the seller mixed parts of 1570 and 1530 which are very similar but have different numbers of teeth. So the wrong wheel fitted but established a wrong ratio. I would count the teeth on the wheels you replaced and compare that with the originals.
  13. Afaik the official version is you need a bezel removing tool which goes into the small gap and lets the bezel pop off. But it can also be done with a watchmaker knife: I never did this by myself so I don't know how big the risk of scratches/damage is .
  14. Welcome Paul. I must admit I'm a vintage Rolex fan and looking forward to follow your project here.
  15. @nucejoe: Some additional information. When the watch arrived everything worked but amplitude was poor (220 deg dial up). While disassembly I took a close look at every part for damages (bent pivots, broken teeth, etc). After a rough cleaning with cleaning sticks and pegwood (especially for the fine pivots and the jewels to wipe off the old dirty lube) I cleaned all parts in an ultrasonic with elma 1:9 (except balance, balance jewels and pallets which were cleaned in bergeon one dip). After that I washed off the water and soap in benzinum. While assembly I checked every part for dust/little hairs before it went in. I did a rough endshake check with a pair of tweezers. After oiling the pallets and the watch running for 24 hours it showed good results on the timegrapher (290 dial up/down, 245 hanging, no waves). At this point I normally stop analyzing and start drinking beer. I never came across adjusting springs for endstones. I just opened the springs, cleaned and oiled the jewels, put them back, closed the springs and everything worked.
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