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manodeoro

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manodeoro last won the day on February 12

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  1. They used first silk-print method then pad-print method I guess. I've done test silk-printing but I still need to train a BIG lot. If you want to reprint a dial search for "sunnyscopa film-free waterslide decal paper" on the web. Design your dial with Photoshop or Illustrator, mirror print on a film-free decal paper and follow the instructions. Great method !!! Mark showed it on one of his tutos. I'm waiting for a gold 14000 Air-King dial that needs some repair (minute track has badly faded). I'll shoot some pics along the repair process and post it on the forum. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  2. Seeing the back of the movement I suppose it's a faux-chrono and the subdials are not working. Possibly a modified Hangzhou 2813. You could have a look at cousinsuk website and search the Chinese movements list for a movement with the same specs. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  3. It depends of your tap size ... 1.4/0.3 or 1.4/0.2 ? If I had to do that I would first redrill then tap, the difficulty being to drill perfectly centered. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  4. Hi Chase ... I just wanted to post there with a "thank you" but you've been too fast for me [emoji846] I will confirm if it IS or is NOT a spring bar tool but it probably is. It'll be cool to change bracelets and straps on my vintage watches with such a nice tool. I really love the multicoloured bakelite ... I'm even thinking about making a custom dial with assorted colours [emoji28] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  5. Not easy but still doable, even if the case is made of 904L s-steel. I would even say that the risk of oversanding is lower with 904L than 316L. But as I already wrote you need steady hands ... and of course there's no way back so first try must be the good one. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  6. BYW ... thought you were based in Germany Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  7. It'll be difficult to give you any opinion or advice without pics of the case ... so would you post some ? What I would do is to tape some high grade sand paper (1200 then 2000) on a dremel and proceed really slowly, low speed, to rework the shape until I get flat surfaces. Not easy but doable if you have steady hand. Then redo the brushing on the top of the lugs and the polish on the side parts. It won't be easy to get sharp edges but you can't achieve that you still can create tiny chamfers between polished and brushed sides ... I've done that and the result looked good. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  8. Hi buddy ... and welcome from France Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  9. 1000% [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  10. Welcome in that friendly forum [emoji846] Never forget that human being can be just like good wine ... aging makes them better. I'll enter my sixties in a few months and they'll be "roaring sixties" ... well, I hope so [emoji6] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  11. I recently got a nice set of dust covers [emoji1] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  12. If your assembly is midcase with rehaut / plexi / bezel then you could the method I use. 1 - measure the outer diameter of the rehaut and the inner diameter of the bezel. 2 - search on cousinsuk a plexi with the closest profile, inner diameter a little too small for the rehaut and outer diameter a little too large for the bezel. 3 - gently sand with 2000 grade the inside diameter of the plexi until you can press it on the rehaut with a tight fit 4 - remove the plexi and gently sand with 2000 grade the outer diameter of the plexi until you can press it inside the rehaut with a tight fit 5 - clean everything 6 - put a tiny bit of grease on the rehaut to help and press the plexi back 7 - put a tiny bit of grease on the bezel and press it over the plexi with a crystal press Using that method I got good results with even 6 ATM waterproofness. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. So ... I'll shoot some pics as I'll relume a gilt dial in August. What I do with such a dial is to first "draw" the oulines with a really "liquid" lume, using the thinest oiler I can get, and let dry. Then I use the "lume drawings" as surrounds to help while luming ... it works pretty well
  14. I just realised I do NOT need to make a tuto about luming as that one is PERFECT Just found it today but that's almost how I proceed ... the only difference is that I put 2 thinner layers of lume in the indexes. The viscosity of the lume mix in that video looks perfect in my opinion. About the hands you must notice he lume them on the underside !!! Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  15. Thanks Now I'm strugling to design the toner transfer as the bezel is only 4.8mm large ... I still have a lot of hours tp spend on that but it's 1000% worthy I just hope the laser printer will be able to print those 1.4mm letters and 1.2mm numbers
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