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manodeoro last won the day on May 15

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About manodeoro

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  1. Newbie needing help

    BTW ... I'm 200% certain that glue won't work [emoji19] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  2. Newbie needing help

    No problem@oldhorse [emoji4] Would you post a close pic of the 2 parts showing the "cut side" ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  3. Newbie needing help

    @oldhorse ... did it helped or not ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  4. Cheap Pegwood

    Too bad ... I hoped you could cut and/or engrave copper plates to make custom dials. So I'll have to keep on working on my project of a rotating stand for dial engraving
  5. Cheap Pegwood

    You're welcome, and you really deserve congrats. May I ask which sort of material you can cut with your laser cutter ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  6. Cheap Pegwood

    @marcoskaiser you're REALLY good at what you do !!! RESPECT Are you a professional luthier ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  7. They probably have enough customers in France, Belgium, Switzerland and Luxembourg Thus, and I hope nobody will take offence about that, with no need of "Rosbifs" or "Rednecks" customers they dont need to use English I'm just kidding of course but to be more serious ... why would they need to use english ,
  8. Unfortunately they are in US and Chopin is in EU. I have asked guys in France if they would do that and how much they would ask. When I get a quote I'll send it to Chopin and help with French language if necesarry. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  9. What you see in your watch which run and/or stops depeinding on the angle is the balance spring. @Chopin wrote about the shock-protection spring that hold the jewel in place and your watch hs lost both (jewel + spring). The problem will be to find the right jewel and the right spring. The best would be to know which movement is in that watch so you should open the caseback, take high definition pics of the movement and post them here to see if somebody can tell which movement it is, or at least see the jewel and shock-spring on the down side of the balance wheel.
  10. Dial cleaning

    If you have a really good camera, a really good printer and you are good at using Ilustrator and/or Photoshop ... then it's doable. Take a high definition picture of your dial, without crystal and perfectly front picture of course. Open it with Photoshop and change the image so that the lettering is the real size and the definition is 4000 ppi. Then you redesign the lost lettering on a specific layer. Here you have to mimic the "age" of the remaining lettering cause you want to repair an old dial ... not make a brand new one. When the design seems OK you print your file (only the layer with lost lettering) on clear decal paper, spray 1 or 2 really thin coats of varnish to protect the ink (unless you have a laser printer). Then you can cut your decal and transfer it on the dial, trying to perfectly adjust the position. Let the decal dry for about 24 hours then spray all the dial with a thin coat of varnish, matte or bright depending on the finish you want. Protect the dial with a glass and let the varnish dry for about 48 hours. Now you can put your dial on the movement, case everything and enjoy your refurbished watch. If you try that one IMPORTANT thing is you must make you first tests on dials you really dont care about, because at first you could do more damages than improvements.
  11. I'm just back home and checked my Dremel-like. Power is 135W and speed is 10.000-38.000rpm (variable speed). I often use it at the lowest speed and sometimes I would like it to go a little slower So sorry to say that but YES ... I think 15.000 minimum speed is too much About the bits that comes with the driller those I use the most are : - flexible shaft !!! it's a MUST HAVE (and the cheapest one you showed dont have it so you'd better forget it) - the buffers - to polish - the grinder - I dont use them "as is" but with sandpaper of different grades sticked on them with double-sided tape - grinding disks - to redo chamfers on cases and lugs that have been overpolished The other bits have proved to be a little useless ... drill bits for wood and/or soft metal and not for stainless steel, etc ... So I have updgraded the kit and I'm still happy with it
  12. Proxxon is the best .... but far more expensive. If I would buy a static drill stand or a lathe I'll probably buy a Proxxon. I'll check the lowest speed of my Dexter later when back home. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. Yes it come with the entire set ... some are usefull and some useless I have upgraded the kit with HS drilling bits, diamond grinders, etc ... plus of course polish buffers and compound paste This evening I'll check my DEXTER max power (watts) and post it here so that you have an idea of what you need. What is also important is the speed range. You must have low speeds to drill SSteel or grind plexi, and high speeds to grind and/or polish SSteel. water sandpaper is "wet-an-dry" sandpaper ... the one you can use it dry or moist it before sanding
  14. Depending on where you live in Romania you could go to LEROY MERLIN and see if they sell the tool below (DEXTER dremel-like - only 35€ in France). That's the one I have and it proved to be a really good tool.
  15. You'll have to polish the sides after grinding so you'd better grind just a little larger (1/4mm) than the size you need. Then you use water sandpaper (the one car painters use) ... 1200 grade then 2400 grade or more When your plexi is perfectly sized you finish with some polish paste : I cant guarantee you'll succeed but that's the way I do ... with good results