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manodeoro

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manodeoro last won the day on February 12 2019

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  1. I'm not 100% certain but I think it was "Araldite" ... nevertheless I suppose that any slow curing epoxy cement would work ...
  2. Congrats !!! nice and shiny ...
  3. Thanks ... I didn't took pics while making the bezel but I can ain the method, which is sort of basic. For the bezel ring I've modified a spare one that was on my drawers and whose exterior diameter fitted the watch ... I've just sanded the inside diameter until it can turn easily around the plexi, with a gap of about 1/4mm ... so you just have to work slowly as if you go to far then the bezel ring is loose ... For the paperclip spring is used ... a paperclip ... I just sanded it to make it thinner so that it can fit to the inner groove of the bezel ring ... The "printing" and "applying" is the only tricky part ... I first drew the design on Illustrator at 2400ppi then up to 4000ppi on Photoshop ... it took me hours as I didn't found any font matching the original one so I had to design every letter and number ... one by one ... Then I printed the design, reversed, on sunnyscopa film-free decal paper ... I first made many test on glossy photo paper to get the "right" red colour ... of course I've used a laser printer as film-free decals need toner and not ink ... Then I applied the decal on the prepared bezel (sanded 2000 grit) ... You have to gain some experience to achieve that : - Glue and applying : Let the glue cure too much and you can't positionate the decal properly ... let it cure not enough and the decal slips while heating ... when properly applied you need let that cure about 5 mns, remove all bubbles, then let cure again about 1/4 hour before heating ... - Heating : Heat too much or to closely and the film will shrink ... not enough and the toner won't adhere to the metal ... I heat with a hair dryer for about 2mns at medium heat, gently press to make the toner adhere, leat the metal cool, heat for 3mns again at high heat, gently press again, let the metal cool again then gently remove the film ... of course time and heating depends on the temperature in the room you work ... - Remove the film : Tat's when you know if you worked properly, or not, while going and and heating and there's no way back ... If the result is bad you just have to remove the toner with nail varnish remover and start everything again ... If the result is OK you wash the bezel with cold water to remove all the remains of glue ... you can rub with your fingers as the toner is already hard ... Then you heat again at high heat for about 5mns to make the toner melt again and when cooled it becomes incredibly scratchproof ... really amazing how hard it becomes ... You also can do the last heating in a kitchen oven but some metal becomes yellowish if heated too much so you have to take care to heat less than 180/200°C ... and if there is any glue remaining it will become yellow too ... So all that's why I wrote about gaining experience ... when I begun using film-free decal papers the score was 10 trials/1 success ... now it's about 2/1 only ...
  4. Ho my ... I love that one ...
  5. Thank you[mention=2964]Johnnie[/mention] I just got a new avatar [emoji39]
  6. After working on it for a few months I've think it's time to create a specific thread about the Ingersoll Sealion that @Johnnie offered me on that thread here. I already had made a custom bezel for it, as neither Johnnie nor me ever found anyone available on the web, but I had made it a little too "aged" and to "orange" so it didn't really matched the color and condition of the dial. So yesterday I've decided to redo that bezel and, while there, do some more renovation work. So I've dismantled it once again, polished the case, crown and caseback a little more, used some toothpaste and polywatch to get a nice clear and shiny plexi. After polishing the caseback I took a close picture and saw that it certainly had, at a time, some brushing on the flat part which is engraved ... so I've decided to try to redo that brushing and here is the result ... CASEBACK AFTER POLISHING CASEBACK REBRUSHED After casing the movement and before putting the caseback on, I've took some pictures of the Ronda 1217-21 movement ... RONDA 1217-21 INGERSOLL ENGRAVING 1217-21 MODEL ENGRAVING SWIIS ENGRAVING ... so that movement is definitely Swiss And the nice Ronda star with RL inside ... probably meaning "Ronda Lausen" And now today's wristchecks ... showing the "finished" watch with it's new bezel, less aged and more reddish ... Maybe some day I'll dismantle it again to redo the lume, which is almost "dead" ... of course if I do that I'll take care to make the lume really low, as it should be on a 43 years old watch ...
  7. Here's my workspace ... Mahogany writing desk from the 60ies (same time period as me and most of my watches) ... "neo-vintage" modded by myself ... In a few weeks I'll move out to a new home where I'll have space enough to organise a specific area for "machinery" ... a drill stand I already have and a pad-printer I have just ordered ... later I'll probably get a lathe and a 4 axes engraver ...
  8. May the mainspring be slipping on the barrel ?
  9. WOW !!! great job ... I've been "playing with dials" for some years now and I'm amazed how quickly you did that ... congrats !!! Now your oldie looks like a 4925 ... Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  10. I needed a Lorsa P75A for a custom build and I saw a little watch on eBay, quite ugly but with the right movement and a nice bracelet ... Bought it for €20 shipped ... The Lorsa ticks great at 5s/day so much better than I expected ... customer will be happy ... And the bracelet looks !!! great !!! on my Ingersoll Sealion ... Today is a happy day [emoji16] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  11. It's a direct swap ... easy as long as you know how to dismantle a keyless works and put it back ... The lest part you put back is the setting lever ... use the 2 positions instead of the 3 positions and the "gohst position" is removed ... Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  12. Below is a link the an ETA setting lever with 2 positions ... https://forum.replica-watch.info/mobiquo/redirect.php?pid=8853506 It looks like this and here's 3 positions setting lever for 2824 or 2836 movements ... exactly the same but with 3 positions ... Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. No need to buy a complete movement as you can buy those "2 positions setting levers" as parts. I still have to search where I saw them so I'll do that on Monday and post a link. On July I'll is 2 off those movements so I'll try to shoot some good pics along the process and post as well. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  14. Hi Johnnie ... I definitely love that watch and will wear it a lot, in good health and proudly ... It's ben a long and challenging journey to put it on my wrist but 1000% worthy ... Thanks again [emoji106] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
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