Jump to content

JohnC

Member
  • Content Count

    110
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

JohnC last won the day on October 2 2020

JohnC had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

56 Excellent

About JohnC

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. For Russian watches I think Ebay is your best bet. I guess Sekondas were sold in the West but really, on Ebay you can get 4-5 movements, some with good balances, for $20. Now when I do a Russian movement I just buy a bunch of scrappers because it's anyone's guess which parts will be shot, which will be missing, etc. I then try to Frankenstein the best movement I can.
  2. If the pivots are okay it may be barrel arbor bearing wear. This movement has a steel bush in the barrel bridge which looks pretty robust, but the bearing in the mainplate isn't bushed. I have assembled the same parts on three different mainplates now and got traces of different waviness each time.
  3. Neither is especially dirty, I just don't want to put a part back in that hasn't been cleaned.
  4. Thanks to you both. Sorry, I should have said, my concern is more with cleaning the underside. The dial sides are both fine. This is a Raketa 2628.
  5. Well done! Looks like you did a good job on the hands. I have wrestled with those Russian three-legged shocks springs so good on you for tackling it.
  6. Hi folks, I need to clean day and date wheels which are painted (or stickered?) brass. Any advice on how best to do this? I don't really want to put them in the ultrasonic. I think a soapy water bath and cleaning back side with brush? Thanks.
  7. +1 to Fried. Love that book so much.
  8. Hi Hans, This question has been asked several times in the past - if you search, you may be able to find people's previous answers. Whether you can get this spring back in depends on what it is exactly. If you are doing a 6497 clone, it should be replaceable with great care without having to move or alter the setting. John
  9. An update to this thread: make sure to clean these endstones with the train wheel bridge off, or else you risk bending pivots! Good thing I bought some scrappers for this one. Tad embarrassing but now posterity will know.
  10. @Apestapatas that's great, well done. Do you have a wavy trace issue or have you just moved it?
  11. @Apestapatas I found that cleaning these end stones had relatively little effect on the amplitude. They are also a bit of a bugger to clean. And yeah those springs definitely want to get lost or broken. As Poljot points out you really can't oil them properly without removing them though. I should say, don't you have a moveable stud to adjust the beat error? Re amplitude, could be a lot of things unfortunately.
  12. @transporter I am also working my way through it, since October. Yes, it's a stretch for the noggin for sure. I find I would like a little more watch stuff and a little less clock stuff, generally, but I think that's supposed to change about the halfway mark. Anyway, much of it is applicable to both. One thing I really need to get sorted is workshop space to do the practical exercises. I am set up for watch stuff, but not so much for clocks / making tools.
  13. I think your best option is buying a scrap movement. Even if you find a replacement that fits, the value proposition of $15-$30 for a miniscule part is just painful.
  14. I think that unless the mainspring is badly deformed that is unlikely to be the issue. If the rundown of the train is okay - or at least not awful - most likely problem is in the escapement or balance wheel. Check the hairspring is not hung up on the centre wheel - easy enough to do and easy enough to miss. Also check the hairspring is not out of flat and rubbing something.
  15. How's the running of the train without the pallets installed? If you turn the crown a few clicks, does it run down smoothly or jolt to a stop?
×
×
  • Create New...