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Marc

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Marc last won the day on December 3 2019

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About Marc

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  1. As already stated this looks like it may well be a split stem in which case a quick note of caution..... If you use any thing to lever against the case to remove the outer part of the stem make sure you use something between the case and the lever to protect the case. It can be very easy to mar an otherwise good case if you don't, and as yours looks to be a solid gold case the risk is even higher.
  2. A degree of patina is to be expected on vintage watches, they are old after all and the patina reflects the life that they have so far had. I can understand that there is a fashion for an apparent "distressed" or "patinated" finish on new watches (although it's not really my thing) to create the impression that the watch has had an adventurous life even though it's factory fresh; the same fashion has reared it's ugly head (my opinion only) in the world of electric guitars. Where I have a problem is when you get an artificially aged watch case, but the dial, hands, and any printing or paint filling on the bezel is absolutely pristine. It's a mis-match that highlights the fact that the patina isn't due to a natural ageing process. The Helson posted above does at least have bezel markings that blend with the rest of the case, which helps, otherwise it's a bit like putting brand new hands on a watch with a time aged dial, they stick out like a sore thumb, even if the lume is a good match. I guess it's not my cup of tea. That being said, I do like bronze watches that have patinated naturally and where the rest of the watch shows a similar level of ageing.
  3. Take the top part of the case with crystal off and post some good clear close up pics of the bottom part of the case with the movement stuck in it.
  4. Be warned, this technique is apparently called "Prima Aprilis" I love how at about 2:48 the spring magically jumps out to the end of the tweezers
  5. You're in the right spot but it would appear that FL did a little more than just rebrand an AS movement. it looks like they made quite a few modifications and have removed the AS cal# altogether. It is fundamentally an AS movement though. If you look on the Borel parts interchange site; http://cgi.julesborel.com/ You will see that the FL1134 is essentially an AS1649 with parts from AS1852, AS1709, and AS1430, as well as some Zodiac 70, 72, and 76 parts thrown in. Looking at your photos it looks as though @Chopin is right. It appears the tip has broken off the setting lever (the bit that @Chopin has circled). This should have a little stud on the end that protrudes down into a groove in the stem so that as you pull the stem in and out it pivots the set lever around its screw, actuating the sliding clutch. compare yours with #443 shown here; https://www.oldswisswatches.com/watch-parts-branded/favre-leuba-calibre-movement-and-spares/favre-leuba-1134/ and you can see what I mean. Borel lists this as a Zodiac part and says that it is obsolete, which means they don't have stock of it, however Cousins seem to. https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/favre-leuba-movement-parts their part #FAV1164443
  6. loosen screw circled in red, then slide locking plate in direction of arrow. Oscillating weight will then lift off.
  7. Have you been able to find a number under the balance wheel?
  8. That is an FL branded AS movement, possibly something like a 2066 or similar. Look under the balance wheel to see if there is a number. The set lever screw (which holds the stem in place) is the one to the left of the stem in your 3rd pic.
  9. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingfisher-Powder-Disposable-Gloves-Medium/dp/B007AH0XPI Buy which ever size gives you the most useful range of finger cot sizes.
  10. Marigolds........ Actually being the skinflit that I am I buy the powder free vinyl or nitrile examination gloves and cut the fingers off to use as cots. I find that the full glove is too sweaty, but proper finger cots seem to be a silly price. This way I get 500 cots for about £4, or £1.50 if I find gloves at a car boot.
  11. The click spring is under the ratchet wheel. Clockwise rotation of the crown results in CCW rotation of the crown wheel relative to the screw, so a LH thread ensures that the torque tends to tighten the screw. CCW rotation of the crown wheel causes CW rotation of the ratchet wheel. However the ratchet wheel is attached to the arbor which has an opposing (CCW) torque from the main spring. The LH thread on the arbor ensures that the CCW torque on the arbor tends to tighten the arbor screw.
  12. Surely just a smaller pair of tweezers and a stronger loupe ???????
  13. I wouldn't like to comment on your theory reagrding the length of the H/S, but what I can tell you is that the H/S is twisted where it enters the stud such that when the stud is mounted in the cock, the H/S will no longer be sitting flat and parallel with the balance wheel, but will in fact be canted steeply such that the outher coil opposite the stud could well be rubbing against the underside of the cock. This will shorten the effective free length of the H/S resulting in too fast a rate. As the point of contact between H/S and cock is after the regulator it also effectively isolates the regulator, making it ineffective. You need to sort out the twist at the stud before you try anything else.
  14. Flu..... For both me and the boss (we share everything). Christmas is still in the fridge, looks like New Years is heading for a wipe out too given the rather slow rate of recovery. Here's hoping that every one did rather better than us.
  15. Take a close look at the jewels from both sides. You will see that one side is flat and the other side is dished. That dish is the oil sink or reservoir and that is where you put the oil. Typically this is on the outer face of the plates and bridges so oil after assembly. However this is not case for capped jewels so these will normally need oiling before assembly.
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