Marc

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Marc last won the day on November 18 2017

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About Marc

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  1. calendar jumper spring

    I think that it's a re-branded AS2063 so the part you want would be #2575 which also fits a whole load of other AS20xx movements. Cousins has them; https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/as-movement-parts Search for calibre AS2063 part# AS20612575
  2. Accuracy of Radio Controlled Clocks

    After only 100 days this clock lost a mere 3/8 of a second which translates to only 1.37 seconds in a year, far exceeding the OP's target of bettering 1 second per day.
  3. Accuracy of Radio Controlled Clocks

    For those who think this is a pipe dream have a read. http://wornandwound.com/the-240-year-old-pendulum-clock-thats-more-accurate-than-your-watch/ @watson1 I admire you ambitions and wish you the very best of luck. I hope that you might document your progress here.
  4. Seiko 5M62 0DF0 crystal?

    I think you may mean cerium oxide?
  5. Obtaining a Hairspring

    Back in the day it used to be possible to buy vibrated hair springs for specific calibres. How do I know? Because I have some NOS calibrated hair springs which came to me in a job lot from an old watchmakers estate. If you can identify the calibre it's always worth looking out for replacement hais springs even if they aren't made today but you may need a lot of patience. Let us know what calibre it's for and I will check my stock.
  6. Turning blued steel?

    There seems to be some confusion over terminology here. Tempering is NOT hardening, and the blue colour of blued steel come from the tempering process, not the hardening process. Carbon steels are hardened by heating to a temperature high enough to change the crystal structure of the material from the Ferrite phase to the Austenite phase (about 800C to 900C), and then cooling it fast enough to prevent the formation of carbide precipitates. As the material cools it changes to a third crystaline phase called Martensite which is extremly hard but very brittle, sometimes referred to as glass hard, with all of the properties that the name implies. Tempering is the process of heating hardened steel to a precisely controlled temperature that is much lower than the Ferrite/Austenite phase change temperature (between about 170C and 380C depending on the required state of temper) and then allowing it to cool slowly. This allows for a partial reversal of the Martensite crystal phase to the Ferrite phase which reintroduces an element of elasticity and ductility, reducing the brittleness thus making the steel tougher (as opposed to harder). Tempering could be considered to be a controlled partial softening process. Different states of temper are referred to by colour as the colour of the oxide layer formed on the surface of the steel as it is heated in the tempering process is an accurate indicator of temperature (Google "steel tempering colours"), so blued steel is carbon steel that has been fully hardened (glass hard) and then tempered to a temperature of between 280C and 310C (purple to dark blue) to partially soften it to a state of toughness to suit its intended use. That is only half the hardness story though. The precise alloy (carbon content as well as the inclusion of other metals) also results in different levels of hardness, which means that you can have a whole range of blued steel with a whole range of hardness properties depending on the actual alloy. All that being said, I have never needed to anything other than HSS gravers to cut blue steel stock. As @khunter says "it's all about cutting angle, shape, and sharpness of the tool". I struggled cutting anything at all to start with and just about all I could do with blued steel was scrape off the blue oxide layer and make a shiny line. It turned out to be because I was trying to sharpen my gravers freehand, an envyable skill that I just haven't managed to acquire, and as a result I was just not getting a suitable cutting edge on the graver. That changed though when I got a honing guide. The difference was instant and dramatic, and the swarf began to fly. Once you have sharpness and technique sorted out the only practical differences between HSS and Tungsten Carbide gravers in watchmaking applications are ease and frequency of sharpening. HSS is easier to sharpen but looses its edge quicker so needs more frequent touching up, Tungsten Carbide is harder to sharpen but holds its edge longer. It is also more prone to chipping.
  7. @Tiktok did state in the original post that is was a genuine ETA movement and if you look closely under the balance wheel you can just about make out the ETA shield. Also below the click it appears to be stamped "SWISS", although it's not too clear in the photograph. The level of finish is also rather higher than I have seen on any 3600. Not sure where you are seeing "CHINA".
  8. Asbestos

    I've read it takes any where between 10 an 80 years. In my brothers case it was 40 years, and it wasn't a gradual onset either so it wasn't 40 years of decline. He has annual chest X-rays to monitor a heart condition, has had for years, and they would have picked up any gradual deterioration. He went to see his GP because he thought he had a chest infection and that's when they picked it up.
  9. Given that you took it apart out in the open then unless you had the wind blowing directly into your face the likelihood of inhaling any fibres is negligible. I certainly wouldn't be losing any sleep over it. And it may not even be asbestos anyway.
  10. I agree with Kraai, it does look like asbestos, and given the age of the machine it probably is. What's more it appears to be in a friable state (at the edges) which means it has the potential to release fibres, so I would advise cautious handling. Best thing to do with it is to put it into a ziplock bag, wipe around the area where you have been handling it with a damp cloth and put the cloth into the ziplock bag as well. Don't vacuum as this risks any renegade fibres becoming airbourne. Then dispose of the bag in an appropriate manner. It is unlikely that this single exposure to asbestos (if that is what it is) will have any untoward consequences, however if anyone's interested I have posted some thoughts on the matter here; https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/7779-asbestos/?tab=comments#comment-75815 As for a suitable replacement, try searching eBay (or other) for heat resistant mat or for silicone trivet. You can pick up a silicone trivet mat (intended for kitchen use) for very little, it's easy to cut to size, and from a very quick search it seems to be good for temperatures up to 240C. Funky colours too....
  11. Asbestos

    I have started this as a new thread as it was taking the original way off topic and I did want to comment; health issues are never unimportant.The original thread that inspired this post is here; https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/903-elma-master-watch-cleaning-machine-wiring-diagramuser-manual/?page=12 There seems to be a lot of difference of opinion regarding the relative risks associated with exposure to asbestos, and as someone who has a small degree of experience in respect to this subject I thought I would put my point of view, although it is not my intention to challenge anyone elses opinion or to claim any particular expertise. For my day job I am a Senior Consultant specialising in waste management for a large environmental consultancy and one of the areas in which we operate, and in which I have had some involvement, is asbestos surveying and remediation management. As a result of the inevitable potential exposure to asbestos that this work implicitly involves the company policy has always been "it takes just one fibre to kill". This is hardly surprising since Health & Safety regulations will hold the Company responsible for any ill effect that can be shown to have been caused by exposure to asbestos in the line of duty unless the Company can demonstrate that it has taken all possible precautions to protect its work force, with the inevitable ensuing litigation. By adopting the "no safe level of exposure" philosiphy the Company is hoping to establish a culture of fear of the stuff that is more designed to keep it out of the courts than it is based on any scientific research (or is that just my cynisism?). However, I don't think that there is anybody out there who would deny that the is a link between exposure to asbestos and a variety of respiratory conditions, some of which can be fatal. There is a discussion here; https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/903-elma-master-watch-cleaning-machine-wiring-diagramuser-manual/?page=12 which examines the "it takes just one fibre to kill" theory and tests it against some statistics (I know, "lies, damned lies, and statistics") and comes up with a strong argument to support the idea that the issues are more associated with prolonged exposure and an accumulation of fibres, rather than a single fibre. It's an interesting read. In the interest of balance though there is also this article; https://www.asbestosnetwork.com/blog/2017/09/how-much-asbestos-exposure-is-harmful-there-is-no-safe-amount.shtml which sets out the view that any exposure should be avoided. My own personal opinion has always tended towards the "no safe level" approach as I am naturally somewhat risk averse. However, 2017 saw the issue come a bit too close to home for me when my eldest brother was diagnosed with mesothelioma, which has in turn been linked (with sufficient confidence for the insurance company to pay out) to a single exposure to asbestos some 40 or so years ago. He is a retired teacher who has never had any direct involvement in the asbestos industry, but who had the misfortune to be in the building at the school he worked at during some holiday refitting. British schools are riddled with the stuff from works carried out between the 1940's and the 1990's (ish) and he spent 1 day in the building without any PPE. Consequently my own risk averse stance has become even more entrenched. The rationale behind my attitude is simple (and applies equally to the Radium issue in which I do have some level of training and competence having spent 5 years as the Company Radiation Protection Supervisor), and goes like this. A single, low dose exposure, can cause health issues which can be serious or even fatal, however the probability is relatively low. Repeated exposure resulting it an ever increasing cumulative dose will result in an ever increasing risk. I can't see into the future to know whether or not or how often I am going to be unavoidably exposed to the hazard, and therefore whether or not he accumulated exposure is ever going to go critical. I therefore treat any exposure as something to be avoided on the grounds that it may help in keeping any potential future unavoidable exposures below the tipping point. In short, there is no safe level of exposure. Stay safe in 2018 people, Happy New Year.
  12. It's called Vienna gut line https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/vienna-regulator-gut-lines https://www.restoration-materials.co.uk/product.php/vienna_gut_line_-_065mm/?k=:::1987440 https://www.hswalsh.com/categories/clock-gut-line http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/parts/lines-vienna.htm
  13. SONA/CITIZEN

    ok, this link shows a HMT movement with the same shape plates as yours; http://jayprashanth.blogspot.co.uk/2008/02/indian-mechanical-watches.html and identifies it as a HMT 0231 Ranfft; http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&HMT_0231 says that the 0231 is a copy of the Citizen 1802 BUT.... the pic he shows has the same shape plates as my 0201, and the dial side is totally different, so somewhat confusing. one posibility is that HMT used different shaped plates at different times for the same calibre and it is a 0201, can you remeasure your hour wheel, make sure that the calipers are properly zeroed first just to be sure. One thing that Ranfft does say is that the cal number may be on the case back. Also have a good look over the main plate and make sure that there are no numbers there.
  14. SONA/CITIZEN

    OK, I'm not sure that the hour wheels are interchangable then. On my Citizen 0201's the hour wheel is 6.55mm diameter (32 teeth), with a 1.53mm OD pipe, 1.27mm tall. I have also just opened up my HMT Jawan which does have the HMT version of the 0201 movement and the plates are identical to the Citizen, so I'm not at all sure. As for the keyless works, have you had them apart? It looks to me that the parts I've edged in blue might be in upside down. If you flip them over and add the missing parts I think they will look the same. Slightly clearer
  15. SONA/CITIZEN

    Bernie, comparing your pics with my own Ciitizen 0201 it looks as though there are some minor differences in the shape of the plates and machined recesses, but all the key reference points look the same. These are Citizen 0201 for comparison; The part you are after is the hour wheel. If you measure the dimensions of yours I can tell you how they compare with the Citizen.