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Marc

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Marc last won the day on May 22 2018

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About Marc

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    Northampton, England

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  1. Checking sold prices on eBay any where between about £40 & £250 depending upon condition for one that actually ticks. Scrap silver is about 28p per gram for sterling. I guess it depends on how much you paid for it and what you want to do with it. In good condition and fully repaired and serviced you may be able to expect the higher end of the sold price range but with the potential cost of the work you may not make much profit.
  2. Marc

    Ebay again

    I couldn't help but laugh out loud when I saw the listing.
  3. 17, 21, 25, 30, & 41 that I definitely know of. There may well have been more as efforts to boost jewel count were considerable when this movement was in production.
  4. Marc

    Movement holder

    No idea what modern ones are like but I have several vintage Rubis tweezers (1960's ish at a guess) and they're pretty good, on a par with similarly vintage Dumont. Bear in mind though that all of my vintage tweezers have been dressed and redressed so many times that they no longer bear any resemblance to their original spec. All very usable nonetheless.
  5. Marc

    HELP with escapement

    Is it in beat? From your second post it sounds like it might just be way out of beat in which case adjusting the banking won't help. Try removing the pallet fork so that you can sight along along a line which goes through the escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance pivots. The impulse jewel should be on that line. If it's not then the movement will be out of beat, and if it's too far out it won't run.
  6. Marc

    screw down crown issues

    What watch is it? The Vostok Amphibians have no spring in the crown and do have a wobbly feel to them. You actually have to hold the crown out slightly to keep it engaged when manually winding.
  7. +1 @Nucejoe, first thing to check for is a loose canon pinion.
  8. Marc

    How to make brushed steel

    All of the previous advice is good for an aesthetically pleasing result, but for what you're asking.... would steroids be appropriate? or maybe a gym membership....
  9. Hi HSD, good moniker.... You have a success under your belt which means that you're on your way. Screwdrivers, looking at what I use most I reckon you would benefit from either a 100 or a 120 (both if you can run to it), a 200, and a 300. As for sharpening them search eBay for "watchmakers screwdriver sharpener" for an inexpensive jig to help keep things true, and a fine grit oil stone of some description, failing that you can always use 600 grit wet or dry paper on a piece of glass. For tweezers you might want to look out for a couple of Dumont No.5 or equivalent for hair spring work. Don't stint on quality here though. For oils you would get a marked improvement with something a little lighter for your train wheel and balance pivots, Moebius 9010 or equivalent would be the obvious choice, this can also be used for pallet stones although not ideal. Also if you are likely to encounter automatics then a breaking grease for the main spring is an essential. Wars have been fought over the fine details of lubrication but I would be surprised if anyone would shoot me down over the above as at least a starting point. From there you can add almost as many refinements as you wish (and can afford). M/S winders are a good idea if you can stretch to them, otherwise perfecting the art of hand installing springs can get you by, and an inexpensive crystal press will address most of your crystal needs. But the big one (in my opinion) is regulation, and the ability to see what differences you have made. To that end having a TimeGrapher or suitable computer programme that can reliably show you amplitude, beat error, and rate, and give you a timing plot is a must for your wish list. This will allow you to see the difference between using Moebius 8000 and 9010 on the balance pivots, what happens when you over oil the pallet stones (or forget to altogether), whether or not the watch is in beat, etc. The list goes on. I'm sure others will add to the above since everybody has their own ideas. But most of all just keep practising. The more you do it the better you will get.
  10. @TexasDon, although we may have started to adopt metric in 1965 we have been very stick in the mud about it. Our currency didn't decimalise until 1971, retail weights and measures hung on into the late '70's, and we still buy our beer in pints and our road signs..... you guessed it, they're still (thankfully) in miles. Interestingly, Australia was still miles up until 1974. I reckon @AndyHull is on the money, made in France for the British market which at the time spread far and wide.
  11. Marc

    2824 Incabloc issue/question(s)

    I would proceed with caution. It looks to me as though you're looking at a Novodiac system and not Incabloc, and that it is just the jewels and spring that are missing and not the whole setting. You may not be able to substitute the whole Novodiac setting for the Incabloc setting without some serious modification. Far simpler to buy the replacement Novodiac jewels and spring and install them with little more than tweezers, good magnification, a steady hand, a ton of patience and some good luck.
  12. I had a go at this question a couple of years ago; It's a topic that people seem to have quite entrenched view about, these are my thoughts from the previous thread. "OH is quite correct in that you need to remove the dial in order to access the click and safely let down the main spring. CB has also provided the service manual which if followed will result in an effectively serviced Timex. Contrary to popular opinion Timex watches were manufactured with servicing in mind and Timex had in place the supply of all spare parts for exactly this purpose. The servicing procedures that Timex outline in the servicing manual were specifically developed to facilitate a simpler and cheaper approach to servicing a movement which was itself designed with this approach to servicing in mind. I get the feeling that a lot of he more traditional watchmakers got frustrated with Timex movements because rather than adopting the Timex procedures they tried to fully disassemble the watch to clean it and subsequently struggled to reassemble it, resulting in a hatred and disrespect for the brand. Looked after the way that Timex intended, they are perfectly capable time keepers (not Rolex precision granted, but perfectly adequate) and significantly more robust than the fully jewelled, 10x the price, Swiss alternatives. I've never come across a "V-Conic" balance with a broken pivot for instance." "it's certainly true to say that there are a lot of watchmakers out there who consider Timex's own published service procedures to be inadequate, and the design philosophy and build quality of their watches to be contemptibly inferior. This is something that I have never understood; it's almost as though there is amongst watchmakers a culture of bias against the brand, dare I say it, an element of snobbery. It's also quite correct that Timex's service procedures would be wholly inappropriate for a fully jewelled movement, in much the same way that the service requirements for a Ferrari differ from those of Ford, but if your garage tried to tell you that they need to service your Ford in accordance with the Ferrari service procedures (and that they should charge you accordingly), because the published Ford procedures are inadequate you would quite rightly question their rationale and take your custom else where. I can only speak from my own experience and that includes quite a lot of Timex watches. There are definitely some aspects of Timex design that I dislike, just as there are design aspects of many other Swiss, American, Russian, and English watches that irritate me, however, I don't think that their durability can be questioned. What is more, from experience I can happily say that the vast majority of apparently dead, 50 years old and never been serviced and look like they've spent most of their life in a war zone Timex's that I have then given the Timex spa treatment, have straight away sprung back into life and gone on to perform as designed. If that isn't evidence of an effective service procedure then I'm not sure what is. And as I said before, I have never encountered a broken Timex balance staff. Obviously other people have different experiences and accordingly (and quite rightly) will have arrived at their own opinions. What I find so difficult to accept, let alone understand, is the (so often repeated) assertion Timex watches were never intended to be repaired or serviced. The fact that Timex went to the trouble and expense of publishing service manuals and tech sheets, and providing a supply of spare parts is proof positive that they were meant to be serviced. And my own experience with them has demonstrated to me that the published service procedures are not only perfectly effective, but also incredibly simple to carry out."
  13. If you are de-magging a whole movement then try and do it running as not only are both ends of the H/S restrained from the motive influence of the field but the spring itself is moving independently of the magnetic field, further enhancing the efficacy of the method.
  14. Marc

    Seiko 7019 balance wheel help needed

    Fast running with poor amplitude, the first thing I look at is the hair spring. Most common causes are; coils sticking together due to magnetism. Easy solution - demagnetize. coils sticking together due to stray oil. Easy solution - clean. coils fouling the underside of the balance cock, or the balance wheel spokes, or the hair spring stud. Not so easy as this usually means a damaged or deformed H/S.
  15. Marc

    Jawana see something?

    The Bulova Caravelle 11DP is a re-badged Citizen 0200 series movement. HMT used Citizen 0200 series movements made under licence.
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