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Marc

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Marc last won the day on March 15

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About Marc

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  1. They should come out relatively easily
  2. Don't try using those dies on a snap on case back, they are designed for installing acrylic crystals. They are made out of bakelite which is fine for acrylic crystals but if you use them for glass crystals or for snap on case backs the rim of the die will flake away, ruining it. They just aren't tough enough to cope with the greater forces involved. Robur used to do a set of aluminium dies which would work.
  3. Your watch is based on a high grade version of a Smiths Cal.1215 movement, having amongst other things, an up-graded jewel count from 15 to 18, and an up-graded balance with an over-coil hair spring. It is a really nice English made movement. The case also appears to be solid gold so should have a hall mark which will date the watch, but I suspect mid 1950's. It's probably either a Dennison or a BWC. This really should not be your first or second watch to work on as although not exactly rare, spare parts are not common, and less so for the variant that you have. It's also not a cheap watch. Check here for an idea of the kind of prices they can fetch. It is a really nice watch though and represents the very best of English watch manufacturing. Definitely one to look after.
  4. Raketa don't use Incabloc, they use a proprietary version of their own. You may find that a donor movement is your easiest source.
  5. No it isn't. An Alpha particle comprises 2 neutrons and 2 protons, making it a Helium nucleus. The atomic number for Neon is 10, so has 10 neutrons and 10 protons. No, Radium is primarily an alpha emitter, although does also emit beta and gamma. If your detector picks up alpha then it will detect Radium.
  6. It appears that there is still a movement spacer ring fitted to the movement, masking the edge of the movement and the dial foot screw holes. As OH says it should just pull off as the clamping screws are absent.
  7. Marc

    Ewen

    I believe that this is an MT920S, which is simply an MT920 Lithium rechargeable with tags to fit Seiko (hence the "S"). The nominal operating voltage for an MT920 is 1.5V, so if yours was reading 1.3V it was not properly charged.
  8. The interference fit of the wheel to the pinion would indeed degrade after each removal/re-installation but it would take a good many removals for this to become a problem, and it would be a progressive change. You would be able to tell when you re-installed the wheel if the fit was in any way loose, in which case a quick tap with a hole closing stake solves the problem, and if it is done with care it doesn't damage the hole or the wheel. If the fit is good when you re-install the wheel it will stay good until the wheel is next removed; it won't slacken off a week after re-installation unless something else pulls it off. Given that the OP has stated that he has tried to pull very hard and the wheel won't move it is reasonable to assume that the interference fit is still in good order, in which case there should be no problem with removing and re-installing the wheel as part of the service without any need to close the hole, and as I said, this should be done if the watch is to be properly serviced. The purpose of regularly servicing the movement is to prevent damage through wear and tear. If this wheel is only removed when excessive side shake is found then the damage has already happened, resulting in the need to re-bush the pivot hole in the bridge, requiring significantly more tooling and experience than closing a hole with a hole closing punch.
  9. Marc

    eta

    In your pic of the empty barrel and arbor, the arbor screw hole is facing down (so you can't see it) and the hook is facing anti-clockwise, so the spring must spiral in anti-clockwise for the hook to catch, which is how you describe you installed the spring. In your pic of the whole movement you can see the barrel arbor screw hole facing up, which means that the barrel has been flipped to install it into the movement, so if you had x-ray vision and could see the spring inside, it would now be spiraling in clockwise because you are looking at it from the other side. The hook on the arbor will also now be seen to face clockwise, again because you are looking at it from the other side. So although you installed the spring anti-clockwise, when you flip the barrel over to install it, the arbor must turn clockwise to catch the spring. The barrel, the arbor, and the way you are installing the spring are all correct for the way the watch winds up.
  10. Many autos are actually based on manual calibers that have heavily modified bridges to accommodate the requirements of a bolt on auto module. If you look closely at some of the AS manual winders for instance you will notice that there are a lot of odd holes in the main plates and even in some of the bridges that don't seem to serve any purpose. Some of these are to make the main plate common to both calendar and non-calendar variants, and I would be surprised if some of them weren't for auto module functions. In fact if you look at Ranfft you will see in a number of database entries the whole movement family is listed, usually starting with the base manual movement, and progressing with the addition of complications. I might therefore be possible to start with a manual winder that is part of a whole family of movements which includes autos and swap out all of the different parts to make it an auto, but the cost would be out of all proportion to simply buying the auto movement in the first place, and then it would be unlikely to fit in the case that the original manual winder came from, requiring a new case to be sourced as well. So theoretically possible, but why would you do that? Converting a manual caliber that has no auto DNA included as standard is also feasible. Cimier has managed to add auto winding to the venerable Unitas/ETA 6497, a classic manual winder, have a look here. In fact a lot of the early autos were just that, but it's only possible if you have the design and manufacturing capability to devise and make the relevant parts.
  11. Isn't the impulse jewel common to both movements? Since the "C" has a jewelled barrel arbor hole which isn't jewelled on the "B", in order for the jewel count to be correct for both movements the "B" must have a jewelled bearing that is not jewelled on the "C". It would be interesting to see what aspect of the "C" was improved by removing a jewel, even if it just turns out to be the cost of manufacture.
  12. In order to properly service the movement you absolutely should remove the wheel so that you can clean any contaminated or degraded oil away (which if left could very easily result in premature wear and failure even if the side shake is acceptable now) and relubricate with fresh oil. A dedicated 5 spoke wheel puller is the best way to go as it pulls at the hub, eliminating the risk of deforming the wheel, but not the only way. The important thing is to pull the wheel straight up with no twisting or canting of the wheel since the arbor is brittle and will snap sooner than bend. This can be achieved using two thin blades worked under the wheel from opposite sides to gradually wedge the wheel up. You may need to protect the bridge with some paper or tape to prevent scratches, and you need to use blades that are only very slightly thicker than the gap between the wheel and the bridge because you need to progress slowly, and don't be tempted to twist the blades. As long as the force is straight up in line with the arbor, and gradual enough to not deform the wheel, you should be alright.
  13. Marc

    eta

    Are you by any chance flipping the barrel complete over to install it on the main plate, adding the barrel bridge, and observing the direction in which the arbor turns when you wind the watch? If so then don't forget that the sense of the spring will flip too so clockwise observed from above will be anti-clockwise observed from below. Just a thought....
  14. I did one of these last year, details here. As far as I can remember the post that you have arrowed is the correct part to push. I can't remember if the stem has to be in the setting position or not but just try it either way.
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