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Marc

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Marc last won the day on March 15

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About Marc

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  1. I have successfully managed to replace these in the past using the ball from the nib of a ballpoint pen and a section of spring scavenged from a spring bar.
  2. @jdrichard my apologies for the delayed response, I somehow missed your question. That spring is the tension spring for the seconds hand pinion and is there to prevent the seconds hand jittering due to the back lash between the pinion leaves and the teeth on the wheel that drives it (the pinion). If you try to install the seconds hand without supporting the other end of the pinion (or the spring) all that happens is the spring will flex allowing the seconds hand pinion to move down into the watch as you try to push the hand onto it, and the hand won't install properly. If I remember correctly the trick with this movement is to install the autowind bridge and the axial rotor retaining screw without the rotor. If you do this the end of the screw can reach the end of the seconds hand pinion, so tightening up the rotor screw until it just makes contact with the spring supports the pinion while you install the hand allowing the hand to be pressed fully home.
  3. The overcoil / terminal curve on your hair spring is way out of shape and doesn't appear to be between the regulator pins. The overcoil should cross over the top of the body of the hair spring (arrow A) and pass between the regulator pins (arrow B). Yours appears to go around the outside of the body of the hair spring rather like the terminal curve on a flat h/s and completely misses the regulator.
  4. Here ya go... This is a tear down reference pic for an AS2063 which has the exact same autowind module as the 2066. Hope it helps.
  5. I should add, you need to lift at the hub, not the rim.
  6. When I read your subject title I thought this was going to be something to do with social distancing!!! The wheel on the top of the plate (which drives the center seconds pinion) is a friction fit onto an extended pinion that comes through the plate, a bit like a sub second pinion goes through the main plate. There is a specific Presto style remover (mine is Bergeon 30638/3) for removing this wheel but it can be done with levers or even razor blades. The key thing is to ensure that the wheel is lifted vertically so that there is absolutely no bending force on the pinion as it is very brittle and easy to break, otherwise it should be relatively easy to remove. Reassembly is also easy, especially if you have a staking set.
  7. I hate that........ ...................... nothing worse than howling indices!!!!!
  8. That would certainly cause the symptoms you describe. The click spring should be one piece, yours has broken. It also looks as though the head of the click screw has sheared off too. You will need to remove the shaft of the screw from the plate and replace it for the click to hold in place.
  9. A bit of Googlefoo suggests that the Kered is a French brand that used movements from a variety of makers. Yours I reckon houses a Duromat 25 or 26 jewel auto which is a variation on a Durowe 7520. The Sekonda is almost certainly a 2609.HA, bullet proof and potentially quite capable once serviced. Not a bad haul at all for the money.
  10. As promised.. These from an ETA 2836. Here with the clamp closed... and open. Be careful not to rotate the clamp beyond the little stop post on the main plate. @watchweasol, definitely more of a sickle than a banana...
  11. Not on this movement, which is an ETA of some sort (or derivative thereof). There are 2 cut aways in the bridges which I think are what you are referring to. They should expose a banana shaped lever or cam at the edge of the main plate, with a pip at one end and a pivot at the other. Gently lever out the pip end away from the movement so that it pivots around the other end. As you swing it out it will release the dial foot. Once both dial feet are released the dial can lift off. I will try and post pics later if I can find a similarly equipped movement.
  12. General rule of thumb is that the hole should be big enough for the staff to sit at an angle of about 5 degrees from vertical.
  13. Try also googling watchmakers turns
  14. According to the images here you need a CR2025
  15. It has picked up the correct beat rate then (always worth checking) but the +++++++ display means that the rate is fast by a large enough margin to be out of the display range. As already suggested the H/S could well be touching somewhere that it shouldn't. You could also have coils sticking together either because they are magnetised or they a contaminated. These would be the first things that I would look at.
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