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Marc last won the day on May 22 2018

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  1. Try here https://www.timezonewatchschool.com/WatchSchool/Glossary/glossary.shtml or this for the same thing in pdf. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
  2. I'm revising this theory. Even if both jewels had the same radius of curvature to their upper surfaces, and therefore the same magnifying power, the greater separation between the curved surface and the oil drop on the flat surface in the case of the thicker jewel would still result in the greater apparent size of the drop when compared to the identical size drop on the thinner jewel when viewed through the jewel.
  3. I wonder if the thicker end stone has a smaller radius of curvature to its top surface, resulting in greater magnification, like a stronger lens. If so then identical size drops placed onto the flat surfaces of each jewel will look different sizes when viewed through the jewel, with the thicker jewel showing the greater apparent size. .... just a thought. :-)
  4. As OH says, comfort is of paramount importance, so leg room and bench height are key. Other than that I would go for the roll top type rather than the hinged down type as you will have to clear the work area of the hinge down type before you can close it. Also the sides of the roll top desk double as a catch net for fliers.
  5. The link below is to the BHI "Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches". Check out section 3.3 on page 6. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwiBoLzv27njAhV5REEAHaXWACwQFjAAegQIABAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nawcc-index.net%2FArticles%2FBTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2wu5iPDMTbXL-VM1mM53rv
  6. Try searching eBay for 1mm stainless steel rod. There's plenty on there in what ever quantity you need.
  7. Just in case you didn't know, and to save a lot of frustration, I think you're going to need a left hand threaded screw for that.
  8. I did a full service on a 70's Depraz a few weeks ago. Details on my blog if anyone is interested. Link in my signature below.
  9. Given the price of Fixodrop, this link may be of interest. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&th=1284125&rid=0
  10. Some parts are interchangeable between calibres in the same model family and some aren't. The Jules Borel web site has a very useful facility for working out what parts will fit what movements. http://cgi.julesborel.com/ The beat rate of a movement is determined by the balance assembly and is primarily a function of the inertia of the balance wheel (determined by the size and mass of the wheel) and the length and strength of the hair spring. It is a specific design feature of any given movement. So I happen to have an 1803 and a 1950 in my to do box at the moment, so with a spare half hour this evening I did some tooth counting..... With both of these movements the center seconds wheel drives directly off the escape wheel pinion. On the 1803 the the Center seconds wheel has 80 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 8 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 10rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 150 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 2.5 teeth per second. It takes 2 beats of the balance to get 1 tooth through the pallets, so that's 5 beats per second, or 18000 BPH. On the 1950 the Center seconds wheel has 72 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 6 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 12rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 180 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 3 teeth per second, so that's 6 beats of the balance per second, or 21600 BPH. If you use a 1950 escape wheel in an 1803 without changing anything else then you have the escape wheel turning at 10rpm (determined by the beat rate of the balance) but only 6 leaves instead of 8 leaves on the escape wheel pinion. This means that in 1 minute the escape wheel turns 10 revolutions, or 60 leaves leaves worth of engagement with the center seconds wheel, which has 80 teeth, so the seconds wheel will only make 0.75 of a full rotation. You need another 20 leaves worth of escape wheel pinion rotation to get one full rotation of the seconds wheel, which takes an additional 20 seconds. So with this combination it will take 1 minute 20 seconds for the seconds hand to make 1 revolution of the dial when the balance wheel rate is correct (18000BPH).
  11. That could be the problem. The 1950/51 beats at 21600BPH and the 1802/03 beats at 18000BPH. The escape wheels are not likely to be interchangeable.
  12. Firstly, there is a massive fibre sticking out through the main plate from under the barrel. If it ran prior to cleaning, and nothing was broken or dislodged as part of the cleaning and reassembly process, but now it keeps stopping, the primary suspect is foreign particles in the works. It only takes a single small fibre in the wrong place and the movement will stop so I would suggest another strip down and inspect to make sure that it is absolutely clean, and then reassemble taking care that no more fibres get into the works. Hopefully this will at least get the watch running again. You mentioned "many seconds slow per minute" but the timing app on the phone showed that it was ok. Assuming that the timing app works properly (you can test this using another watch of known accuracy) then the usual cause for this is a loose canon pinion which results in the hands moving slowly, erratically, or not at all, even though the movement is running fine. You can verify this quite easily by ignoring the hour and minute hands and timing the seconds hand against a known reference. This is because the loose canon pinion issue only affects the hour and minute hands, and not the seconds hand. If the seconds hand is making 1 full revolution per minute then it confirms the results of the timing app on you phone, and the canon pinion is slipping. You can even double check this diagnosis by assessing the resistance at the crown when setting the hands; again, little or no resistance means loose canon pinion. If the seconds hand is indeed taking significantly more than 1 minute to make a full revolution then the movement is running slow. If it is 5 seconds slow per minute then that equates to 7200 seconds per day which is way beyond the adjustment range of the regulator and suggests that someone has messed about with the balance assembly or the train wheels. If the problem is with the balance assembly then possible causes are; 1. Someone has fitted too long a hairspring. 2. If it is a screwed balance then someone has added extra weight to it. 3. Possibly insufficient end shake on the balance staff resulting in a lower angular velocity for the balance although this would also be associated with reduced amplitude which could compensate for the slower balance velocity, and is more likely to stop the thing altogether. I can't think of anything else that would cause the period of the balance to increase, just about everything else decreases the period resulting in the watch running fast. If the problem is with the going train then it would suggest that someone has swapped out one of the wheels with a wheel from a movement that is designed for a balance wheel assembly that oscillates at a higher frequency than yours. This would indeed show the correct rate on the timing app, but the seconds hand taking longer than 1 minute per revolution. First step though is to re-clean the movement and get it running, then check the canon pinion. ps. As has been mentioned many times before, if the amplitude is very low then the timegrapher or timing apps can show complete rubbish data, so visually check that the balance wheel has decent amplitude before evaluating the data from the timing app.
  13. @Myron62 I have just had a play around with a 2415 that I currently have in pieces to see if I can replicate the problem. Two possible causes come to mind. 1. If the reverser clutch isn't properly seated on the square of the M/S arbor then it will sit high and block the bridge from seating down properly. I don't think this is the case with yours though. Looking at mine, with the reverser clutch properly seated the space between the two reverser wheels is about the same as between the bottom reverser wheel and the barrel, and that looks to be the same as yours. This may be worth a check though. 2. If the barrel lid isn't properly seated on the barrel it may lift the whole assembly slightly out of the main plate. Fitting the bridge without the reverser clutch may still work as the length of the arbor doesn't change. However, if you try it with the clutch in place the increased height of the cluitch wheel above the main plate due to the less than fully seated barrel lid could cause the problem you have. So it might be worth checking that the barrel lid is fully seated. I don't think that the fact that the barrel and clutch have been replaced should be problematic if they came from another 2415. The barrel arbor is clearly not the issue as everything works without the clutch installed. I does occur to me though looking at your pics that the cluth reverser wheels look slightly thicker than mine. On mine the clutch assembly is 0.90mm thick with no thickening at the hub. If yours is thicker than this or has a raised hub then this would cause a problem. Glad you like the blog ps. It's always the ones that are staring you in the face that are the most difficult to spot!!!
  14. It may not be any help to you but there is a full rebuild of a 2415 on my blog (link below in my signature). The only thing that occurs to me is that the click may be resting on top of the ratchet wheel rather than against its rim, which would prevent the bridge from seating properly. The click needs to be held away from the ratchet wheel (against its spring) when fitting the bridge.
  15. General tweezer maintainence. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1214-dressing-tweezers/
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