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Marc

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Marc last won the day on November 7

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About Marc

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  1. That looks like an ST movement, and probably a 97-4. Do you know what the bph is?
  2. Try Googling "CNC laser engraver", there are quite a lot of options including DIY but kit for engraving into metals is not likely to be cheap. You might be better off out-sourcing the engraving to a company that specialises in that sort of thing. Probably cheaper that buying the kit to do it yourself unless you've got other uses for it.
  3. "Brain fart!!!" Brilliant expression
  4. It's called a "pig nose" nut. the typical kind of tool for these is like a screw driver blade with the middle ground out. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EJD1CCY/ref=psdc_1939295031_t1_B07H34XNRM I have made my own for watch work by adapting an old pair of dividers from an old draftsmans drawing set. I have simply replaced the pointed pins with straight pins.
  5. That is indeed an F next to the 4018 and is the makers mark for Felsa, the maker of the movement, and the specific caliber is 4018. If you Google Felsa 4018 you will find all sorts of information about the movement, which is a manual winding mechanical movement with (in your case) 21 jewels, and which ticks at 18000 beats per hour. The watch brand is "Swiss Emperor" which was a Swiss based company around the 1960's through to the 1980's, I don't think they survived much beyond the '80's but I could be wrong on that count. Yours has a 9Ct gold case which will help in dating the watch from the Hall mark, but from the styling I would hazard a guess at the 1960's. The inside of the case back does have some service marks in evidence so it has been serviced before. It's a nice watch and from the sound of it just needs a clean and service to get it running.
  6. Looks like you have a Felsa 4018 so parts should be easily found (stem is 5.96 + vat & postage from Cousins and they have 257 in stock). Almost certainly needs a full service to get the best from it, and it might be a good idea to change the main spring whilst you're at it, plus a new generic crystal and crown to really bring out its rather nice looks. Unless something catastrophic has befallen it in such a way as to leave no obvious marks I would certainly say that it's do-able and worth doing, especially given its sentimental value. Whether you tackle it your self or find someone else depends on your level of experience and how much you want to spend.
  7. Actually as the power reserve gets low the principal impact on the balance is on amplitude which drops considerably. Counterintuitively this can actually result in an increase in rate and the watch can speed up as the power reserve gets very low, although I've never quite worked out the mechanism behind this effect, but I have observed it. I suspect that it is due to the relationship between momentum, static friction, and dynamic friction breaking down at very low amplitudes and energy levels and the impact that this has on the oscillating system. The degree to which this effect can be observed will also vary from watch to watch depending on how much clearance there is between the curb pin and the boot on the regulator. In an ideal world the gap between the two will be exactly equal to the thickness of the hair spring resulting in the H/S being always in contact with one or the other and the effective H/S length remaining constant throughout each balance oscillation. In reality the clearance is usually slightly greater than the thickness of the H/S which means that for a fraction of the balance rotation the H/S is not in contact with either boot or curb pin and the effective length of the H/S increases to its full length. With good amplitude the impact that this has on timing is insignificant but as the amplitude decreases with reduced power from the M/S the proportion of the balance swing that is on the full H/S length rather than the regulated H/S length increases and the effect that this has on slowing the rate increases. Also the greater the gap between the curb pin and the boot the greater this effect will be. This will obviously counter any increase in the rate that may result from the very low amplitude resulting from low M/S power. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the exact impact on rate as M/S power reduces is almost impossible to predict as there are at least two mechanisms in play which counter each other to variable degres. A rotor can in theory keep the main spring fully wound all the time if it is continually moving at an appropriate rate and in the right direction (remember not all auto winding systems are bi-directional), and the autowinding system is in an appropriate state of repair. As @AdamC says though it is highly dependent on the level of activity of the wearer. For a real life example though I have a Vostock Amphibia with a 2416b auto-wind movement. This has a quick set date that requires cycling back and through the midnight point to correct the date if required, and becaouse of the wobbly crown characteristic of the Amphibia this is a PITA so I keep it on a winder when not wearing it. The winder rotates for 1 hour in every 4 at about 9rpm. Left on this winder for over two weeks at a time this watch has never stopped so I would suggest that the input from the winder is pretty close to the output of the watch running.
  8. A little more clarity; Incabloc.pdf correct Also correct Right again OD of the hole jewel Right on both counts Here you've got me This is the little "U" shaped clip that holds the bloc into the main plate or balance cock on the balance side in thos settings that aren't a friction fit. This is indeed a screw for those settings where the bloc is secured in place with a screw instead of a Clavette pivot hole jewel, although I much prefer the stoned feline This actually reads "Pierre de Contre Pivot" "dessus" "dessous" and is the cap jewel upper and lower. This is important as often the lower cap jewels are thinner than the upper ones. As above this should read "Ressort de Contre pivot" "dessus" "dessous" and refers to the lyre springs or cap jewel springs. Contre pivot = end stone or cap jewel. Where different thicknesses of cap jewels are used top and bottom you will need different springs to accomodate their different dimensions. If anyone can fill in collumns 7 & 8 we will have the full picture, although I believe that they refer to dimensions not part numbers.
  9. @VWatchie Ha ha ha...... just love the stoned kitten!!! This might help make things a little clearer though.. http://www.incabloc.ch/en/systeme_incabloc.php
  10. The embedded picture is actually a link. If you click on it it takes you to the web page which is much easier to read. Check the left hand "Base Caliber" column for 2776. Move across to the third "Caliber Derivatives" column and it lists all of the derived ETA calibers that use the same part. Then move across the columns to the right for the individual part numbers for the bloc, chaton, pivot jewel, cap jewel, and spring, for both upper and lower settings. Order the parts you need by Inca part number. Check out http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=X\ZDXITL and you will find a whole load of other calibers that use the same part.
  11. Check out the link below. It gives all the applicable interchangeable movements and all the individual part numbers. Order by Inca part No. from Cousins.
  12. I have an identical set. They came to me in a job lot from the estate sale of an old watchmaker who apparently was trained by the army prior to his being demobbed after the war so that he had a trade to go into.
  13. Are you using the right breaking grease, and the right amount? How many turns of the arbor do you get before the bridle slips?
  14. Can you post a pic of the movement without the battery in position
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