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Marc last won the day on May 22

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About Marc

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  1. If you look at the photo in the original post you can see that the date is offet from the crown by 12° so they are not concurrent. Date wheels have 31 divisions which means a rotation of just over 11.61° at each date change. If you were to rotate the date window back by 12° to bring it into line with the crown but still use the original date ring the ring would be out of alignment with the window by just under 0.4°, not a lot but enough to notice and be really irritating.
  2. Dial feet positioning is determined by the crown position relative to the case. Take the standard arrangement of crown @ 3 on the dial and 90° clockwise from the 12 position relative to the case as the starting point. If you want to position the crown @ 4 on the dial but still have the standard arrangement of dial relative to the case you have to rotate both the movement and the dial feet position 30° clockwise relative to the dial and case. The date ring printing is determined by the date window position relative to the movement (and therefore the crown). If you start from the standard position as above and want to move the crown to the 4 position relative to the case as above then you will either need to move the date window 30° clockwise on the dial and have the date @ the same position as the crown (in other words new dial but retain the original date ring and have the date display canted 30° relative to the dial and case), or use a date ring that is printed 30° offset anticlockwise to standard so that the date window can remain @ 3 relative to the dial and case. I hope that the above makes sense (I find it slightly confusing and I wrote it, I may have got it wrong). Either way I think that you will likely need to move the original date ring from the dead movement to the new one. Your watch has the crown @ 4 (30° offset from standard) and the date @ 4:24 (42° offset from standard). I could be wrong but this is an unusual arrangement which could well be unique to this watch, in which case the date ring is also unique to this watch. As such a standard movement will need the date ring switched with the original to get everything to line up.
  3. Eta2892 Automatic question

    It is in part dependent on how active he is when he is wearing it. If he drives to work, works at a desk all day, drives home, and the sits watching tv all evening, the autowind is unlikely be working very hard and so little will be added to the power reserve. If on the other hand he walks to work, spends his day on his feet at some manual activity, walks home, and then spends his evening enjoying an active hobby, the autowing will be working overtime and the power reserve will remain very healthy. It is always important get and idea of the level of daily activity the watch is subjected to when a customer complains that his autowinding watch keeps stopping. Also, an automatic watch winding machine is a valuable asset when it comes to testing the auto watches that you work on before they go back to the customer.
  4. Help please

    This is the nearest that I can find here; 型号 US1620 标准电压 3V 标准容量 17mAh 使用温度 -20℃~+60℃ 直径 16mm 高/厚 2.0mm 产地 日本 保质期 10年以上 This is for a motherboard battery complete with solder tags and wired plug but the battery is the same. The spec sheet for the LIR1620 mentioned above is here; Lir1620.pdf As far as I can see the voltage is different (3.0v against 3.7v) and the capacity is different (17mAh against 10mAh). The physical dimensions are the same.
  5. Help please

    There is a never ending list of suitable candidates for that category. It's part of what keeps it fun!!
  6. Help please

    Not correct. The Ingersoll Navigator rechargeable watch that the OP describes is just that.... rechargeable. It comes with a plastic stand which has a coil embedded in it and plugs into a power supply, recharging the watch by electromagnetic induction. I couldn't say whether or not the battery that the OP has is original to the watch, but the watch most certainly does need a rechargeable battery.
  7. Balance staff equivalents

    What movement is it for?
  8. what is this movement??

    Looks like a Wostok 2214 in 21 jewel format.
  9. I don't know the movement but I have circled the relevant bits. You can see the dial feet poking through and held in place by a bevelled eccentric. If you turn the eccentrics with a screw driver they will release the dial feet and the dial will be liberated.
  10. TBH I've always just used a small electric hot plate. Lay the bezel on it and keep trying the crystal until it fits, then switch off and let it all cool down slowly. I've never measured the temp. However, a quick Google search turns up this site; If I'm using it right then it looks as though heating a brass bezel from 20C to 200C should give you just over 1mm expansion across the diameter of a 35mm bezel aperture.
  11. Lew & Me

    Sad news indeed OH, my condolences. We had a very bad year last year as we lost 6; 5 through old age and poor health, and 1 to the road. It is always very painful but we still have 16 others to occupy our minds, along with the tortoises and the geko!! This is Bramble. We lost him to the road last December. He was only 5 which made it even sadder. We still have his mum, sister, and two brothers (Mimi, Masie, Noah and Micky).
  12. Not dreamed up at all, that is exactly how they should be fitted. Do NOT try to press it in, it will just break, particularly if it is a bevelled edge crystal. You could use a smaller crystal and cement it in but this is a compromise for an under-cut bezel; the degree of the compromise depending on whether the crystal has a bevelled or 90 degree edge. The correct approach is to use a bevelled edge crystal that is slightly too big to drop in, heat the bezel so that it expands, drop the crystal in place and when the bezel cools down and contracts it should be a nice snug fit so that the crystal doesn't rotate in the bezel. crystal fit.pdf
  13. Lubricating Jewels

    Drop it into a small container of naphtha (zippo lighter fluid) and put a lid on it. Leave it overnight, then give it a little shake. You should find that the two parts just fall apart. These settings often get glued together with gummy oil and when you find them like this it is a good indication that a good cleaning is required. The naphtha dissolves the oil freeing up the parts.
  14. That looks more like a pedometer than a top watch to me
  15. Seiko Elnix Lift Angle

    An interesting question indeed! This is speculation on my part as I don't actually know, but I don't think that "lift angle" has quite the same meaning on these balance wheel electronics as it does on conventional mechanical movements. In a conventional mechanical movement energy is delivered to the balance from the escape wheel, via the pallet fork and impulse pin. The lift angle is the angle of arc through which the balance wheel rotates whilst it is receiving energy from the pallet, or the angle of rotation in which the impulse pin is in contact with the pallet fork (same thing). In an electronic balance wheel movement the power goes the other way. Energy is supplied to the balance wheel by the energised coils acting on the wheel mounted magnets. The balance transfers this energy to the pallet fork which then pushes round the teeth on the escape wheel thus delivering energy into the wheel train. If you compare the escape wheel from your Elnix to one from a conventional mechanical you will see that the teeth are a completely different shape to allow for the reversing of the direction of power transfer. You could argue that "lift angle" still has the same meaning as it is still the angle of rotation of the balance wheel through which energy is being transfered between the balance and the escape wheel. However, whether or not it makes the correct set of sounds for a timing machine to make sense of......??? I would try it out and see what it says. I suspect that it will be able to give you meaningful data for beat rate, beat error, and daily rate, but I'm not sure that I would have a lot of confidence in the amplitude reading. Even if it did give you accurate amplitude data, does it actually have the same significance as for a pure mechanical?