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Marc

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Marc last won the day on January 25

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About Marc

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  1. With a crystal like that I would start with a small piece (1"x1") of 180 grit wet & dry working under a running tap, then work up through 400, 800, 1500, and 2500, all under running water. Then polish with Solvol AutoSol. Maybe 10 minutes max start to finish and will look like new.
  2. I think that those look more like pressed rivets than screws.
  3. Lathes.co.uk lists the thread as 0.199" by 0.7mm pitch. The closest tap that I have managed to find is M5.2 x 0.7mm. I have just made myself a new drawbar for my 6mm Lorch Triumph using it and it works fine.
  4. This is unlikely. First of all it is unlikely that the regulator curb pins that are the correct fit for a flat H/S will correctly align with the terminal curve of the over-coil H/S, necessitating a different regulator. Also an over-coil H/S needs more space between the balance wheel hub and the underside of the balance cock. So either a different balance wheel or a different cock may be required.
  5. This is a more common design than you may think. Taken from the Timex service manual....
  6. Shouldn't that be "slightly less than two glasses"? ?
  7. What you describe sounds like it's a cylinder movement. If you Google cylinder movement you will get loads of information about the design and history of these calibres. To identify your particular watch it would really help if you posted some photos, good clear close ups will give us something to work with.
  8. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk
  9. If you still have the original seconds hand you can easily see if the pipe is still attached to it or not. If it is still on the hand then it's clearly not still attached to the pinion so it's not that that is preventing the installation of the new hand. If it is still attached to the hand try looking through the pipe. If it is blocked then it may well be that the top of the pinion has broken off and is still in the pipe, which would then require a new seconds hand pinion before you can fit a new hand. As @watchweasol says though it would be helpful to have the dial off to get a clea
  10. It's difficult to tell for sure from your photo but has the seconds hand pipe become detached from the hand and remained on the pinion?
  11. Check out the movement shot here. I couldn't say for sure that this is the same model but from the model range and the functions I would expect it to house the same movement as yours. They don't exactly look the same........ Even if your movement looked the same as this one, just focus on the details a bit. The single rotor mounting screw (there should be 3) is noticeably off center, the edge bleed of the printing on the rotor, the level of the finish on the plates and rotor generally..... If you were paying upwards of £11k on a watch (and that's the stainless steel version) is this
  12. Marc! please help the watchmaker damaged my watch ? now I need to find parts to fix it and it is a sentimental piece 

    you had helped me find a click spring for this watch and you have no idea how much that made me happy, I am hoping your knowhow will save again.

    IMG_2553 2.PNG

    IMG_2554 2.JPG

  13. Looks like a two piece or "split" stem. Roamer used this type of case quite a lot. Try turning it upside down and slowly turning the crown. If you're lucky then when the joint between the two halves of the stem is aligned vertically the movement will just drop out, make sure that it has something soft to land on. If this doesn't work then you will need to pull the crown with enough force to pull the two halves of the stem apart, releasing the movement.
  14. I seem to be getting a bit of this lately... Is this something that needs looking at? Usually it just takes a couple of tries refreshing the page to get back on track so it's not a major issue.
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