Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    JBerry

    Unitas 6497 Custom Watch

    Hey folks, I'd like to share a watch I put together for my Brother's birthday. The movement is a pretty old Unitas 6497 which I picked up from the widow of a watchmaker a year or so back, the plates have been skeletonised and I'm pretty sure this was a once off job by the watchmaker. The mainplate is brass, and the decorated bridge plates appear to have been plated (quite crudely, when inspected under a loupe). The movement is keeping great time now that it is serviced. I made an attempt at a logo using the film-free transfer technique Mark has used in a couple of recent Youtube videos. The logo didn't adhere very well to the dial, not particularly happy with it. In person and to the naked eye it looks pretty good I think. The case is a 41mm case I picked up from Ofrei, who I sourced the dial and hands from also. Hope ye like it!
  2. 6 points
    HSL

    ETA Resources

    Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.
  3. 6 points
    RyMoeller

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  4. 4 points
    Marshall

    Current collection

    I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project.
  5. 4 points
    jdm

    Lorsa 238G Service

    A well made mov’t that wasn't running. No surprise, as both balance pivots were snapped, there is no shock-protection on this version. I'd classify this mov’t not the best for an absolute beginner, it's 11.5’’' size is fine but there are three flat wire springs not very friendly, many small screws all of different sizes, so to require a full set of screwdrivers. It is interesting to observe how many construction details that have evolved from this old design for reasons of optimization, cost and part count reduction. Let’s get started. To release the stem undo completely the setting lever screw,, then either pull it out, or be careful as it likely will drop as you turn the mov’t over. Dial screws are on the sides and best handled with a 0.70mm driver. Especially if you’re using an ultrasonic cleaner it’s a good practice to remove them to reduce the risk of dropping during work. Remove the dial washer and hour wheel, since the date ring spring holds on the other side of calendar plate I suggest that for caution you place the mov’t in a plastic bag after removing the three screws, and before lifting the plate. You can put away the bag for now to remove the date ring, wheel, and finger, as well as the cannon pinion and the setting lever screw. Now lift the setting spring to reveal the joke and its spring, be cautious when removing the latter. Remove the joke, setting wheel and pinion, clutch wheel, sliding pinion, setting lever, as well the balance cap jewel, and we're done with this side of the mov’t. Strangely, the escape wheel cap jewel was missing. In reality the picture above has the setting lever still in place since I had not removed its screw yet. Now for the other side. Since I had removed the balance cock already, it’s now time to let down the mainspring with the usual pegwood braking technique. We can now remove pallet cock screw, pallet cock, pallet fork, escape wheel cap jewel, And crown wheel (left-handed). Also remove the crown wheel spacer pictured below. Remove the winding wheel screw and wheel, then be careful in removing the click spring, time to use the bag again perhaps. Finally remove the click screw and click. Having taken apart the complete winding system we can now remove the two train bridge screws and the bridge. Train is of the classic type, three wheels plus the escape one, which can now be removed. And finally two more screws for the barrel bridge, the bridge and the barrel. About the barrel and mainspring (sorry, not pictured) I opened the lid and found everything clean and in order. Since I was not to replace the mainspring I took no further action on moved to general cleaning. I did a couple washes in petroleum ether (refined naphtha) and isopropyl alcohol but some opacity remained on the plates, so I left these in ammonia-based cleaner for few hours, then rinsed in petroleum ether. Note that the latter (unlike lighter or engine fuel) contains no oils, fragrance or other additives, and leaves no residue at all. Much better, barrel and bridge already in place! About reassembly, I will not detail all the steps, but only highlights some important aspects. For lubrication I’ve only used three modern, fully synthetic products by Moebius: HP1300 for high-torque parts like winding and setting. 9010 fine oil for other pivots and jewels, it’s easy to apply from the outer side of the hole jewel. 9415 for pallet stones, only because I’ve just received it. Below from left to right, escape wheel cap screw, lower balance cap screw, balance upper cap screws, All have different sizes, so unless you photographed or otherwise set these apart you’ll have to use some logic to refit correctly. Same goes for all the other screws… they may look the same.. but they are not! Below the balance upper cap jewel. It also holds in place the regulator arm, for this purpose it’s slightly beveled. You will have to fit the setting lever on the dial side, and its screw from the other. Just use some rodico to keep the lever in place. The setting pinion goes with the bevel toward the sliding pinion. Barrel and crown wheel screws have different head dia. length and thread direction. You may want to use the plastic bag to fit the click spring safely. Fit the click first, then the long leg of the spring under it, then the bent leg to sit firmly. The joke and setting lever springs are also a bit tricky. All these pivots and sliding points are lubricated with HP1300, don't forget to test the working repeatedly before moving forward. I've found the date ring spring to be the most difficult, because it’s underneath the calendar plate as shown in the disassembly picture. After the spring is in the plate either fit it with a siding manoeuvre to place the spring against the date finger, or position the plate with the screws kept loose, then push the spring in place by the cut that is on the plate for the purpose. There is no date quick setting on this basic mov’t, that is done setting time back and forth across midnight. The finger on the date wheel is pivoting when moving backwards with the help of a really small spring. However doing that much setting counter-clockwise every other month does not damage the escapement, as sometimes is feared. The replacement balance complete came in the “a vis” version, which are there for poising, not rate adjusting. Actually I think the stubs are pressed not screwed. One last detail for the correct installation of the dial washer. Flat side faces and slides on the hour wheel, you can use HP1300 there. The edges somehow grab on the bottom of the dial. This veteran Swiss could have rewarded me a bit more on the instrument, but I hold no grudge and won’t try stunts as fixing beat error at the hairspring collet, adjusting for positions, or getting the missing cap jewel. And that is why I won’t, it would not make much sense for a desk clock! Now, who should own something like that? My friendly blacksmith, of course! I hope you have enjoyed my “no pretenses” article!
  6. 4 points
    margolisd

    Laser Printed Decal

    I've been working on this for a while. My wife's due to give birth any day now and this is what I'm going to give her after the baby is born. This is my first attempt at restoring a dial. HSL was kind enough to send me a spare one to practice on. Which I did, and it ended up being the final one I used. What was also interesting, I attempted Mark's laser printed logo method.Which worked surprisingly well. The edges of the print aren't quite as sharp as the original. But you would have to have a very expert eye to tell the difference. I think with a very high DPI laser printer you could get this more or less perfect.
  7. 3 points
    margolisd

    Roller for 19" Omega Pocket Watch

    And here it is completed. It's been a long process. Lots of cleaning and polishing, a new balance staff, replacing 2 cracked jewels, all kinds of escapement issues. Thanks HSL for the roller! Everything is running great now after 12 rounds of dynamic poising. It's within 30 seconds per day in all positions which I can live with. But most importantly within 8 seconds dial up and pendant up. Pretty good for a century old watch.
  8. 3 points
    Thank you ! :), it works. I aligned the jumper, and when I rotated the calender wheel manually it suddenly snapped in. Now the date has is nice "snap" once it changes the date :).
  9. 3 points
    Got another Waltham Vangaurd movement coming. When will the madness end. Gold settings and diamond end stones sooo hard to resist. Have a few nice cases looking for movements... Still need to find a side wider for my hunter case though....Ron
  10. 3 points
    Here’s a tip for those of you who shop from CousinsUK.com! Cousins have a strict policy when it comes to returns, and if you wish to shop from them you must approve of these terms. However, don’t automatically assume it’s no use to get in touch with them if you feel that something has gone wrong. In my experience Cousins are always willing to listen to your arguments with an objective and humble attitude. My experience with Cousins’ service, prices, and treatment are really the best!
  11. 3 points
    The correct way would be to let the power down with the correct size watch key, by moving the click away from the ratchet, that is located under the little plate, held by the tiny screws. Always remember with a cylinder escapement there are no pallets, so power must be released first before any attempt is made removing the balance. So you have the barrel and the bridge all together. Remove the barrel cape and remove the spring. The barrel arbor should unscrew and become two pieces, and then it will come away from the bridge. Many are not easy to take completely apart, if you find this my advice would be to clean it as it is, you do not want to damage the arbor. You have the thin plate off which exposes the ratchet, that is the part that is going to be the most dirty part and underneath. I cannot remember which way the arbor unscrews. Its over 25 years ago for me. Not all arbors have the two holes as in the diagram above. so be careful.
  12. 3 points
    So the time has come to do a small tutorial on how one could assemble an own noname Watch out of parts harvested from the deepest coners of the web. I took a look in my drawers and after a stiff G&T I decided there might be parts enought to make a try. This should not be looked as the final solution but rather as a complement to Everything else created out there. The tutorial is a 50+ page Collection of Pictures and Words in a PDF format which makes it possible to read it offline too. The Pictures are mine original works so you could even use it as a slideshow at your next Company party! The result from mine attemt looks Little like this.. How to assemble your own watch.pdf
  13. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Unusual Incabloc

    Agree with all above. If you decide to remove the endstone assembly, soak in naphta for a day or use penetrating oil on the screws, leave oil to soak-in over night. Sharpen a screwdriver to perfect fit, place the cock on a hard flat surface, press rather hard on the screwdriver, if it dosn,t unscrew easy, soak more. These little screws get stripped easy.
  14. 3 points
    PeterS

    eta 900

    Maybe the crown wheel ring? Try whether it fits on the crown wheel post and if it does see whether the crown wheel fits on it.
  15. 3 points
    I read the thread now properly and see that you already done a build. My offer stands if Nucejoe needs a escape wheel . Have one that looks okay .
  16. 3 points
    The lift angle is not the issue one side of the beat is not correct. It could be a loose impulse jewel, a loose pallet jewel, a dirty pallet jewel or a dirty escape wheel. My first effort to resolve this is to check the pallet jewels for damage and tightness and if OK I would just clean again and lubricate again. Its amazing how the smallest amount of unwanted dirt can effect the performance. On a side note I very rarely bother to adjust the lift angle setting on the timographer unless I suspect it is way out. A smooth pattern on both sides of the beat and a decent amplitude is my goal.
  17. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    More HMT goodness. A quick service and a polish, and a new light tan band brought this sunflower yellow faced beauty back to life. I thought I had all of the scratches out of the crystal, but there is still one little one that caught the sunlight at the 7 O'clock marker. I'm going to have to remove the crystal anyway, to get at the "history" trapped between it and the case, so I'll have another crack at getting it perfect then.
  18. 3 points
    Wanting to do a bearing replacement on a nice Boley Leinen ww-83 I picked up recently, nicklesilver gave me the idea of using angular contact bearings instead of deep groove bearings. AC's need a way of preloading them and need to be installed adjacent to one another or with precision spacers between them. I splurged for the expensive p4's and while they are the right diameters, they're thicker than the OEM deep groove bearing so I had to make both spacers. I bought universal matches AC's so if I ground the spacers exactly the same, it should be the right preload. So far so good, but it did seem like the preload was almost a tad heavy. The groove in the outer spacer is for a felt oil wick Drive. As nice as this lathe is, the drive was terrible. Basically a universal motor with a great big rheostat, yuck. I had a consew motor (variable speed servo) that I moved from below the bench to the back and connecting it to a jack shaft bolted to the bench. I took the brushes out of the motor so its also just a jackshaft, er, flywheel. I made a control box so I can switch between rheostat control of the motor and foot control - you want both for different ops. Its actually a better arrangement as the Consew is mounted on an adjacent bench so zero vibration reaches the lathe. I'm stuck with the hole in the bench....have to 3d print some tool tray thing and make it look intentional. I've 1/2 a dozen watchmakers lathes, each one has something unique, so the idea is they're out of the way in a cupboard but can be placed in front of the jackshaft and set to running in seconds....keeps the bench less crowded and I only have to have one drive. This one has the rare thread cutting attachment, which even has tumbler! To use it though, I'll have to rig up a toggle reverse switch (the consew is a bit of a pita to reverse) I replaced the bearings in the motor and counter shafts as well, stripped and repainted and installed the new p4 spindle bearings. Not shown is a full set of change gears, milling spindle and second 3 way slide rest. I think I'm having too much fun big headstock.....little headstock
  19. 3 points
    I think the best option would be looking for a supplier of jewels for industrial purposes there are plenty about: http://www.true-point.co.uk/ the above supplier has jewels in the range of sizes you would require.
  20. 3 points
    No one has any insight on this vise? Any old time watch/clock makers around that might know about it on this board? At any rate, the refurbish is finished, thought you guys/gals might like to see it. You can see more pics and read a little on the history of G. Boley and Company on my blog HERE.
  21. 2 points
    Before - and - After 107 Timex Automatic. This model orginated with a 31 automatic and was later made with the update 107. This watch insored designer Todd Synder to create a monern version. Actually quite a nice homage but saddly only a quartz https://www.toddsnyder.com/pages/the-military-watch-by-todd-snyder-timex
  22. 2 points
    watchweasol

    Elgin Puzzler

    Hi The train wheels are all free running, does the pallet (fork) snap backwards and forwards cleanly when moved, without the balance in , If the action is sharp and crisp the fault lies within the balance area, Is it in beat is balance spring fouling the cock, is the spring concentric, is impulse pin loose , Pallet stones in good shape and not loose, pallet stones locking and un locking ok these are but a few pointers to check before trearing it to pieces again. Doubtless other members will have other actions for you to look at.
  23. 2 points
    VWatchie

    Opening Raketa

    Nice watch @rhyj and a great movement (I would expect a Raketa cal. 2609) for any beginning watch repairer! You can see how the case back is removed in the video below. The movement in the video is a Vostok 2409 but the principle should be exactly the same. You'll find several videos on the same channel working with the Raketa movements and many other Russian movements such as Vostok, Poljot, etc. Now, be aware that the guy (Ratfaced Git) working on these movements is a self-trained former car mechanic who always insists to do things in his own way, which sometimes isn't best practice. That said, he was a huge inspiration to me when I got started. He just goes for it! No fear, no regrets! Good luck!
  24. 2 points
    wls1971

    sessions westminster pendulum length

    This is a two train Westminster chime ? the pendulum rod will hang to the very bottom of the movement plates which places the pendulum bob just below the movement , the suspension spring and rod would be 5 1/8 inches. Photos would help. https://mb.nawcc.org/images/attach/taming_the_sessions_2-train_4th_edition.pdf
  25. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Checking end and side shakes

    You could check each wheel individually. That way you will not have anything obstructing your view. I always screwed the plates down to test.
  26. 2 points
    if has been repaired, it MIGHT be atached wit double back tape. vin
  27. 2 points
    Have you checked mainplates side at 5hr and at 2hr for little screws holding the dial feet? If they don,t unscrew peacefully, put penetrating oil on them, let soak over night, sharpen you screwdriver to perfect fit. If you can,t find the screws, give claiber post pix of MP sides( outer circumference) Good luck
  28. 2 points
    bcpitch5

    Hamilton 974 Hands Not Moving

    I figured it out. I totally overlooked that this particular 974 has the little blue locking screw to lock it in the winding position when out of the case which explains why the hands wouldn't move. I didn't have it locked which kept it in the setting position when out of the case and thus not having enough power to turn the hands....I'm an idiot
  29. 2 points
    DFeryance

    3D Printing

    I have a monoprice voxel. It is limited in features compared to others but works out-of-the-box and was a good price. I wouldn't bother with a 3d printer for parts holders and the like. There are a few nice designs on thingiverse but really it isn't worth the bother. Injection molded supplies are going to be better quality and you can buy a bunch all at once instead of one waiting to print them out one at a time. Where it may come in handy is when you need something in a specific shape that you cannot buy. But keep in mind you will need to learn at least some basic CAD design. I use Moi3d which is excellent but there are cheaper alternatives. I've used my 3d printer to create different adapters and holders where I needed an exact shape. For example, I was bending a strip of brass and was able to create plastic bending clamps I compressed with some pliers. I was able to figure out the exact inside and outside curve I needed and print to match. The nice thing about the 3d printed parts is you can use glue to attach whatever you need to it without worrying about having to damage the print when removing it as you can always print a new one.
  30. 2 points
    Thank you @rogart63 , for sending me the escapewheel. I will pass on three winding stems and three staffs to forum members in appreciation of your generosity.
  31. 2 points
    Nucejoe

    Carbon mainsprings

    Just tighten the spring for better grip on arbor. Can be wound in manually, rinse and grease afterwards, start from outer coils to wind in.Greasing wont be as thorough but hardly the end of the world. Wear protective gogles. I assume it is manual wind.
  32. 2 points
    Grab the arbor in a pin vice (or barrel arbor holder, which is a specialized pin vice for just this task), then twist it in, in the opposite direction of winding.
  33. 2 points
    I have looked a little bit on those two pictures you posted and would initialy say the represent two different symtoms. The upper one suggest the exit stone on your pallet has some dirt or something on it. The lower picture suggests the hairspring is toutching something, it's a typical signal of that phenomena.
  34. 2 points
    As mentioned above, the 2824-2 lift angle is 50°, see attached document. Many people makes no distinction between 2824 and 2824-2, which are different in that and few other details. _C_T_CT_2824-2_FDE_481688_24.pdf
  35. 2 points
    If there's no feasible way to get the cap off I would strongly recommend against pegwooding the hole. If your wood breaks you're humped. And it do break.
  36. 2 points
    AndyHull

    Old lucien picard

    From what you can glean via Google, you can see that Lucien Piccard was a quality make, however I can't find anything online that resembles your particular watch. There is probably a good reason for that. I would guess the watch really is 1940 to 1950 or thereabouts, but there is one minor issue, so far as I can tell, the Piccard should have two "c"s in it, so I suspect that you have a particularly interesting fake. If it were just the dial that was spelled with one "C" then I might give it the benefit of the doubt and say that it was a re-dial, but since the caliber also has Lucien Picard I can only assume this is because it 'aint gen-yew-wine. It probably isn't a recent fake either, but rather one created at that time. The watch is probably worth $20 just for the curiosity value alone. I've seen quite a number of pseudo this and faux that, but not a Lucien Piccard (or rather Lucien Picard). Someone with more expertise may chime in at this point and prove me wrong of course.
  37. 2 points
    24h

    D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

    I find a smaller piezo to be a little better. Here I've attached a .zip file containing two comparisons between 27mm and 12mm piezos from an 18000 bph and 21600 bph movement. Hope that helps! 27mm_vs_12mm_Piezo.zip
  38. 2 points
    jdm

    TV ads

    At 2:10 the guy picks up a bridge with bare hands, drops it, hits the holder on the 2nd try... I felt reassured about my technique LoL.
  39. 2 points
    balaton

    Can you ID this movement ?

    Made from parts of varied and indeterminate parentage. Usually, but not always, applied to dogs. Regards.
  40. 2 points
    balaton

    Can you ID this movement ?

    Hi, The movement appears to be the savonette version of the 11''' Langerdorf/Lanco 1 which probably goes back to the 1920s. As others have stated, it is clearly not original to your watch as Fero used pin-lever movements from Baumgartner, Brac, EB and possibly others. Regards.
  41. 2 points
    Thanks MrRoundel. It's a candy blue over silver metallic base, clear coat overall. It's a high temp, oil, gas resistant finish. According to a German Watch historical museum the G. Boley vises are suppose to be a very precise parallel vise. They made a rotating base for the C60 and I've only seen one with it, which was on eBay. I didn't know if the Google translation of the German site is correct, if so then what I was referring to as a removable anvil is called a "saddle". Now restored I can tell you it's as smooth as silk. Just a beautifully made vise. I hope to make a couple add on jaws for it such as a felt set and a poly set that clip on using the detents on the side of the existing jaws. If not magnets.. lol I'm not into restoring vises per say, I have a few that were discarded, or left heading to the landfill such as this Boley C60 was. To me it's just a waste to throw them away when a little effort can bring something back and in some cases I can improve it and put it back in service. Saving the planet one project at a time. You guys here would have salivated over all the watch and clock repair tools and stuff that got tossed out of this unit where this vise came from. Very sad... I was there last person in asked to clean it up some. This and a couple other small items were all I could salvage. They destroyed most of the rest. A clock/watch repair man's entire life discarded after his passing. At least this vise is still around. And I left some of the marks he made in it just because. Restored it should last another 100 or so years if cared for properly. Still hoping to date it. Going to write the German museum to see if they can help in that regard. Cheers..
  42. 2 points
    Nucejoe

    USA East Coast Watch Repair Pro ?

    Let see if we can get Mark lovic to service them, wouldn,t hurt to ask. I think he just may want to make a video( lesson) out of it. Just a thought.
  43. 2 points
    Tmuir

    General clock related question.

    Is it in beat? Is it making a nice Tick, Tock sound, or does it sound like an old man walking on crutches? If its not in beat it won't run well, or if badly out of beat not at all. An easy test is to tilt the whole case on the wall left or right a few degrees and see if the ticking sounds better or not. If it does then its out of beat and needs to be adjusted which is not hard, just Google 'Putting Clock in Beat' If it was working, got taken home and then stopped working being out of beat is very likely.
  44. 2 points
    Squiffything

    Ladies Timex

    Ok it’s time again to offer a movement to anyone who would like it. Sorry but it has to be UK only due to postage costs. Its a Timex, it looks to be an older movement and it’s running although it appears to be running fast. Oh and it’s free! All I suggest is that the recipient considers offering something that they do not need in the clock/watch world to keep the karma flowing. PM me if you would like and I’ll stick it in the post. First come first dibs
  45. 2 points
    Hi all, Brian Young here. I am not a watch or clock repairer. I came to this website to hopefully gain some insight to watches and watch repair. I recently inherited a pocket watch from my mother; it was her father's Illinois pocket watch made in 1911. I no sooner got it home when I dropped it onto the tile kitchen floor. As you might expect, it no longer works. It lasted 108 years before me and one week after me. I hope you all don't mind if I glom on to your site and pick your brains for info. In the last month, I have purchased two early 1900's Illinois pocket watches, both running, and can't bring myself to cannibalize them in order to get Grandpa's watch running again. So, now I own three pocket watches, two from 1905, running, and one from 1911, needing a balance stem. Hope I haven't broken protocol by talking about the reason why I am here in the introduction post. If so, sorry. I'm not really a rebel. I'm just clueless. Thank you for having me.
  46. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Lanzetter National machine. FAO Moose

    You will find a big difference with that if before you cleaned your watch movements by hand.
  47. 2 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    Old pic but decided to wear this today. Great dial colour, flips around depending on the light. Love it on the WatchGecko vintage leather rally strap. Would be nice to find an original bracelet too.
  48. 2 points
    balaton

    Watch of Today

    37mm French-made Tylex from the '60s by unrecorded maker. Runs on 21j Lorsa P62. Regards.
  49. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Your very first watch ?

    I have a similar one but with a cowboy! Somewhere I have a cowgirl too. It is indeed the pallet fork that gives the motion. My first watch was a Frogger watch, followed by a first gen G Shock. Then a quartz Seiko diver, and finally got an Omega automatic just before I went to watchmaking school. I didn't want to show up with a quartz.
  50. 2 points
    oldhippy

    Re-pivoting a clock wheels.

    It is quite easy when you know how. You can use this method for most wheels, on smaller lathes. Similar to how I was trained.
×
×
  • Create New...