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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points

    Fixing my Late Brothers Watch

    Just got it back today from Chris Radek, The Timeguy. Could not me happier, thank you Chris and all here who helped. Bob C.
  2. 6 points

    Ricoh 61 is ticking at last

    Hi All, I managed to reshape the hairspring in my Ricoh 61 project tonight. I am absolutely elated that I didn't give up and was successful in the end. I managed to make some mistakes on the way but in the end I corrected them all. I used hand remove levers to remove the hairspring from the balance wheel. The tips were too thick and I slipped and twisted the hairspring at the collet. Job for another day before I attempt it again is to thin down the hand levers. To correct the above I placed the collet on a pin and used tweezers to press down on the inner coil opposite where it was twisted up (under a binocular microscope). Tweezers got dirty and I managed to transfer that to the hairspring causing the coils to stick together. I solved that with a quick dip in IPA followed by a quick dry. Best to try and avoid that in the first place. Outer coil had to be reshaped to follow the path of the regulator pin. That took me a while to sort out. I did review some Ricoh hairspring images on Google and eBay to give me an idea of how the outer coil should be and then followed the helpful videos on YouTube. Hairspring fitted back on balance, managed to position it so the jewel was 180 degrees to how it should be. Corrected this with tweezer tip in the collet slot while gently turning. What I would do better next time. Better lighting would be the most important improvement I could make. It would have been a lot easier I believe with good lighting. It was very tricky but I am a beginner. It was my first success with a hairspring reshape. I am 52 years old so a late starter. Hope this write up can help someone in future. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  3. 6 points
    Much better after running for 10h! [emoji846][emoji846] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  4. 5 points

    404 Club

    Think this should just about qualify?.. this job lot of 6 'dead' Accurist movements + 1 case was £12.85 including postage (so less than £4.04 with $10 postage for the whole 6), 4 of them were ETA 2390s, 3 of which I have killed now... but one I have got running well enough that I built it back into the case that was also in the lot and it has been running with reasonable accuracy (within +30s/day dial up, better than that if worn) for a couple of weeks now. I used the most patina'd of the dials as I kind of like it and jazzed it up with a bright orange second hand. Since it is my first 'saved' watch since starting this hobby I intend to keep it! I haven't done anything yet with the 2 other movements, but since I don't have another case it will be tough to rescue them fully!
  5. 5 points

    Hairspring rats nest

    4 Hours later... Not perfect but the best I can do with my current wizardry level. I spent a further hour trying to get the stud pin back in and gave up at 1am.
  6. 5 points
    I'm attaching a couple of images that show how to do it and how not to do it. Do not rely on the pivot that goes into the hole to get the oil to Flow. Ideally want something that's really in much smaller than the hole itself..
  7. 5 points

    Strange things inside a watch

    Well who would have thought it. That thick gummy nastiness I keep finding in old watches actually comes from mythical technicoloured horned equines. I'll need to remember to keep it and bottle it next time.
  8. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    Ricoh 61 finally completed today. Feels great. Love the winding sound, Zip zip zip. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  9. 4 points
    Final step fit the dial then put the movement back in case. Seal the case back Install hand and bezel, glass. A beautiful ladies watch. Finally, thank you for those had help me through this little probject! Also those who click in and read my stupid walkthrough. Enjoy your day.
  10. 4 points

    Hairspring rats nest

    First thing to do is to unpin that hairspring off of stud.( most important). (Your search show should a similair advice I gave, OP didn't listen, spent ages like thisand ended up buying a new HS. ) To unpin I insert the stud back in the stud carrier even instal the cock, then unpin. Next remove the HS and put it on a white sheet of paper. No tac is needed. Run an oiler through the coil, start form collet outwards, to untangle any circle stuck under another, each time all the way to the end of HS, then you will see a much less tangled coil that is not hopeless at all. Good luck.
  11. 4 points
    The reason why The repair is so expensive is several reasons. If you take the watch to a jewelry store and they send it out for repair they mark up the repair cost considerably. Ideally you want to find the repair shop yourself you'll get a better price. But no matter what this watch is going to be expensive to get repaired. If the shop really was a Rolex shop they nearly double the cost of anything that's a vintage watch. Then if it's complicated like a chronograph it will go up again. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-nov-29 Then Nucejoe was kind of kidding about a decade of experience. For instance depending upon where you're located their schools teaching professional watchmakers two years there would put you in a much better position the service a chronograph. But Mark does have chronograph videos I have a link below for one of them not the same caliber as yours unfortunately but don't give you a clue is only six parts should bill a breeze through that no time. Okay here's the problem it's a chronograph with some stuff on the dial side it's a little more complicated. There is a service manual for it but it's really big file size so I'm not going to attach it. In order service this yourself you're going to need to learn how to master servicing a watch without breaking it probably service several of them without breaking them. Then I would find one of these movements on eBay to practice on before working on something that you prize. Because no matter what in watch repair things happen and breaking something that you value is actually a really good lesson in watch repair to teach you why you shouldn't be repairing it in the first place. It just depends on how much pain and suffering you like. So it's not impossible that you can repair it yourself it just isn't something that we would advise you to do at least not right now until you get lots of experience. Then as you didn't say where you're located it makes it hard to make recommendations of where you might look for repair shop. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Valjoux_72 https://youtu.be/EI3T-IR3AgM Valjoux_Valjoux 72.pdf
  12. 4 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    My lovely Tudor Pelagos.
  13. 4 points
    My Tissot chronograph, which I got for a song at a local Pawn shop, has been sold as I wasn't wearing it much. It was bulky and needed a link in the bracelet to fit more comfortably. I was seriously considering building a 7750 clone from eBay parts when I chanced across this Accurist chrono. It is powered by a Landeron 248. It looks to be of a late 60's vintage, but have no idea how to date them. Coming from the UK so it will be a couple weeks. It was sold as running, which is a plus, looks like it'll need a crystal polish for sure. I absolutely ADORE the complexity of mechanical chronographs!
  14. 4 points

    So much waiting

    Specialize in limited number of calibers and brands. That way, you get good at all the technical ends n outs and a used or new scrap movement can be your material house to the last drop. A good example of this is jersymo, knows and has everything about timex.
  15. 4 points

    Strange things inside a watch

    The strangest thing that i have found was in the Montine electronic ESA 9157, bought as a 'non runner'(which I am coincidently wearing at the moment), the seller described it as 'may work I haven't tried a new battery'. Well needless to say I took that with a pinch of salt..........On removing the 'Renata No11' battery (funny number I thought?) a new battery saw it ticking away merrily.. The old battery was on the work bench and the light caught something scratched on the top of it. I would appear that the watchmaker who last changed the battery had scratched the date on it......'16.4.82'! The number on the battery was 'funny' as it was a long extinct mercury cell, and had been in the watch for the last 38 years, without leaking!! It would also appear that the same fastidious watchmaker was also responsible for fitting the replacement, rather expensive, NSA watch strap as I found this scratched inside the clasp.... 'ZTX New 3.5.81'........ Oh and the same bracelet can still be bought........I think I did quite well for my £20 or so outlay...
  16. 4 points
    Today I received this beautiful Omega Genève from 1968 with blue dial. Iit was sold as not running, but with the optical condition and the ridiculously low price I just couldn't say no When I opened it a screw fell right out the movement. I noticed that it should hold one of the caseclamps in place, which was missing. I guessed that the caseclamp made its way into the train of wheels, causing the watch to stop. So I carefully shaked the watch and volià, the clamp fell out and the movement began to run. I resecured the clamp with the screw. The movement looks really dirty though, so it will definitly benefit from a service. The results on the timegrapher confirmed that, so there is still work to do I also fittet an original Omega buckle to the strap.
  17. 4 points
    Just picked this up for 25.00. has a split stem and the seller thought the stem was broken but it just needed pushed back in to reconnect Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  18. 4 points
    All working perfect now. Everything was good all the time. After I test the motion work with power on the mainspring everything behave as expected and all working perfect! Really happy to accomplish my first amateur Rolex service!! Bit error is at zero but amplitude is a bit low at 275'. I think amplitude might not be great because I'm not really good at lub the jewels on the pallet fork and made a bit of a mess with the Moebius 9415. Thanks again for all the fantastic support.
  19. 4 points
    Picked up this Timex Electric and Cimier off the Bay. Both look like the will clean up well but working condition is unknown. Also picked up this Gotham to play with
  20. 4 points

    Making a Watchmaker's Bench

    I'm no furniture maker, but I think this will work. First milestone complete. Next is the back and sides, then the working surface. I'll then bring it in and make the other case of drawers at a less hurried pace.
  21. 3 points

    Making a Watchmaker's Bench

    Getting there.
  22. 3 points


    Hi guys … I had promised that I would make a « custom decal dial tutorial » on another thread there So here we are … There are many variations of decal dials, the best IMHO being the « negative gilt » dials which gives the best results. The process I’m showing today is aabout how to make a dial with black printings on a one color background. I had a cheap quartz diver waiting in my drawers so I’ll make a Heuer diver hommage based on the 980.016 model (quartz one too). DAY 01 : It’s 4:30 AM (I’m an early bird) and I have 2 hours to kill before a business trip to Paris (I’m French) so I decide I have time enough to begin. The first part of the process is to prepare the dial plate : - stripped it, removing all the lumes bars and dots - soaked the dial for some minutes in acetone to remove the paint - filled the tiny holes where the bars and dots go with cyanolite glue - sand everything flat I sand with 800 and don’t try to get a smooth surface as I want the paint to adhere perfectly to thedial plate. Here is the result … Then I want to spray paint. I make a tube with some painter’s tape, from a « curve » with it and place it on a plastic bottle cap. I want it curved so that I can stick the dial on it without any risk of bstructing the center hole or the date window of the dial plate. So I stick the sanded dial plate on the tape tube. As you can guess from the pic below … that’s not the first time a make an orange dial. Then I place the bottle cap and dial plate on a paper sheet and spray paint in orange. I use street art spray paint as it is « water resistant ». As you can see on the next pic, I don’t try to get a smooth surface, or even to perfectly cover the dial plate at first. I will let this coat dry, sand it with 2000 grade, then spray 1 or 2 coats until I get a perfectly smooth orange dial plate, ready for receiving a decal. So I place the bottle cap and dial under a shooter glass and will let it dry for about 24 hours before sanding and spraying the second paint coat. The 24 hours drying time is really important (though it could depend on the paint you use). The paint I use looks perfectly dry after about 5 hours but if you spray the second coat without waiting enough, that coat won’t perfectly adhere to the first and you could get a granular surface like an orange peel. And here is the dial waiting under the shooter glass. On the right is a « negative gilt » dial (third and last matte varnish coat) On the background there are two Raketa 2609 movements from the 70ies, quietly (really loudly to be honest) ticking for test after I‘ve recently serviced them. Now it’s 5:45 AM so I will have a and go to the train station. I’ll sand the dial plate this evening and spray the second paint coat tomorrow morning. Then sand it in the evening and spray the third coat (if needed) the day after. DAY 02 - DAY 03 : So here's what you get after the first paint coat … doesn't look really good but no matter as there's still some work to do to get a better result. And here's what you get after 3 coats of paint, each one sanded with 2000 grade, to get a perfect finish, flat and smooth. Now the dial plate is eady to receive the decal. DAY 03 : I won’t explain anything about Photoshop and Illustrator here … I’ll only explain how I print my decals. One thing really important, from my own experience, is the definition of the design. I’ve tried several, from 1200ppp to 6000pp and the best results I’ve got on printing decal sheets were with a 4000ppp definition. So all my dial designs are done in 4000ppp. The result is really BIG files … for example an A6 template with 12 dial desings ready to print is about 800Mo. As that dial is black printing only I open it with Photoshop and let the softwre (so ont the printer) deal with the printing quality. My printer is an old Epson Picturemate with a 1200 maximum definition. As the good quality decal sheets are not cheap and as I’m a « skinflint» I often print on A7 sheets … 6 dial designs on one sheet. When printed you should let it dry for about 4 hours then spray 2 really thin coats of matte varnish, letting each coat dry for at least 12 hours (24 hours is better). DAY 04 - DAY 05 : 2 days of speed-hiking with my wife so I didn’t worked on that tuto. You can check on the net what speed-hiking is, but to summarize it’s hiking as fast as you can with really light backpacks, trying not to run (or only short runs). On a good day you can walk 5 to 6 miles/hour … when trained you can walk up to 6,5 miles/hour … and while I trained for my first 62 miles ultra I achieved to walk (no running) up to 6,85 miles/hour (11 km/heure). DAY 06 : Today is Monday 6:00 AM. It’s been 5 days since I begun that tutorial and … my legs ache and all my body is painful (see Day 04 - Day 05) The dial plate is ready and the decal sheet too. You can see that the decal sheet looks matte now. That is because I have sprayed 2 coats of matte varnish on it, to protect the inkjet ink while I’ll soak the decal in water. Of course if you print with a laser you won’t have to spray varnish as the laser inks are (almost) water resistant. First thing to do is to chose the best item on the decal sheet and cut it round. Then you are ready to go. On the next pic you can see all you need now : - dial plate … fixed on a foam board using the dial feets - decal dial … nicely cut round - tweezers - thin and smooth brush (mine’s a watercolor brush) - some « micro set » … or just vhite wine vinegar (it helps the decal to set on the dial plate) - cold water Now you put the decal in cold water and while it soaks you brush some micro-set (or white vinegar) on the dial plate. Then you put the decal on the dial plate. Here you can see why I prefer using clear decal sheets on coloured dial plates … because it’s much easier to « perfectly » positionate the decal, using the central hole and the date-window. When you’re happy with the position of your decal you use a paper tissue to absorb the excess of water. Do that carefully as you don’t want to move the decal on the plate. And here we are … everything worked fine while absorbing the water and the decal position is OK. I’ll let it dry for about 12 hours before I cut the central hole and the date window, before I proceed to the varnish finish. Still Day 06 but 7:00 PM The decal has dried for about 13 hours so now I can proceed on cutting the decal sheet That's what I do then I : - fix it back on the foam board - apply some « micro set » around the center hole, the date-window and the outer diameter - gently press with a paper tissue so that the decal is perfectly applied (no more «air bubbles) And I let dry for 3 hours more Evening … 10:00 PM Now the decal is « perfectly » applied and dried and ready for the finish Last pic for today is after spraying the first coat of glossy varnish I will let it dry for 12 hours, sand it with 2000 grade paper and apply the 2nd coat. DAY 07 : 20:00 AM … only 1 pic today just after finely sanding with 2000 grade the 2nd varnish coat I applied yesterday DAY 08 : Yesterday evening I applied the 3rd and final varnish coat after finelt sanding and cleaning And today I can show you the final result … and say I'm pretty happy That dial is so glossy it’not easy to get a good pic, even on close-up. May I say that me hpone is nit the best at shooting pics (just like me) and the actual dial is much much better that it looks on the pictures below. I hope that you liked that tutorial and that it could be helpfull to members who want to try to build their own watch dials. I’ll try to make better pics with a real camera and a better lens … next week of the week after, after luming the dial together with the hands. Then I will still have to get a case and rework it so that it could be a 980,016 lookalike. Some of you may wonder how much time did I spend to make that dial. It took 8 days to achieve the all process but I spent only 1 hour the first day then only from 15mnm to 5mn the days after. So, apart from the design work on Illustrator and Photoshop (which took me hours), I would say that the whole process is about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that it's not my first try at dial making and I've trained for 2 years now. So if you want to try you should consider spending a few more hours but it's really worth the time spent as at the end you get your unique DIY dial.
  23. 3 points


    I think that you may find it's 83 that are non-functional. It's an AS movement, probably a 1700 as these were a favourite for over-jewelling for marketing purposes. It has no more staffs, arbors and pallets than a 17 jewel AS1700. As you go over 17 jewels the justification (on the grounds of time keeping) for extra jewels becomes increasingly more difficult, and past about 21 almost impossible in a standard h:m:s type movement. That's not to say that additional jewels beyond 21 are completely pointless. Jewelled bearings throughout the auto-wind mechanism have a value in so much as they tend to have lower frictional losses compared to metal on metal bearings and so increase winding efficiency and prolong component life, but their contribution to more consistent time keeping can be a difficult point to argue. Once you have jewelled and end capped every single axial bearing in the watch though you are going to struggle to justify a single extra rock on the grounds of functionality, which means that even with the most complex auto-wind system you're going to top out somewhere between 35 and 40 functional jewels and that's probably being generous, beyond that is almost always nothing more than marketing hype. There's an interesting article on the subject here.
  24. 3 points
    When cleaning the movement, I put just the balance back on the mainplate, then get a line of sight down the centre of the escape wheel/pallet jewels and between the banking pins to the impulse jewel. If not central, rotate the balance and make a mark opposite the stud. You can do it with the movement assembled, but I find it easier with a bare movement and no pallet. I can usually get to about 1 m/s just by sight. Which is good enough without an adjuster - I think people worry too much about a bit of beat error. As @clockboy says above, things can easily go horribly wrong.
  25. 3 points
    Hi Daniel Ichecked the down load It appeared it was duff so I have attached two pictures of the movement again. If you checkout the setting lever spring with yours its the same so dfrom that I would deduce Its a Gruen probably 145 .
  26. 3 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    My first 'real' watch... IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Cousteau Divers” REF 3783, 2006
  27. 3 points

    Movement identification

    Hi The attachment below may be of use to you in the future for ID purposes. Symbols (1) watch trade marks.pdf
  28. 3 points

    Swap Rolex Movment 3035 for 3135?

    Second and third choices are definately not good ones, there is no gurantee replacements off ebay run any better. You can have a long story to tell and 2500 bucks short in no time. Did Rolex service your watch before? and do we know of a better choice. What is wrong if anything with your watch is unknown. Even if your watch keeps on loosing 20 seconds a day after a service, it's sentimental value is genuinely invaluable. Regards
  29. 3 points

    Swap Rolex Movment 3035 for 3135?

    Not true, there are very many competent, independent watch repairers in the US (and elsewhere). They may be able to repair what you think is not repairable, that includes obtaining part or even making new ones. For the US search AWCI directory, plus the Internet for reputation and customer feedback.
  30. 3 points

    Show us your blue dial watches.

    My restored Seiko Kinetic purchased and worn since 2004 SMY093P1 Rotor removed and running from a non rechargeable battery. Sapphire crystal fitted. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
  31. 3 points
    These movements you quoted are very old (1940/50s era) so they are much more inclined to fault when not handled properly.my first question is are you cleaning and oiling these before reassembling? If not then that can be your issue to begin with but here’s what i think...... the one that stops on the side = bent balance staff and/or broken jewel why? Because you did not set the balance properly before screwing down the bridge. It’s should be ticking as soon as you seat it correctly if there is power from the mainspring. I always wind up the watch and check action of the pallet before installing the balance. Once you see it running put the screw in and gently rest your finger on the bridge while you screw it down, sometimes they wiggle as you screw it down and the staff can pop out of the pivot. Just use the weight of your finger do not apply any additional pressure. Do not screw it down all the way at first, screw it until bridge is secure remove finger the tighten it as much as you can from there...balance screws should be tight too loose can cause watch to stop. the one that runs fast = magnetized or sticking hairspring coil why? Because you didn’t clean the movement. Or demagnetize the movement and or your tools. You could also be warping the hairspring when you remove it or not setting it down properly after you remove it. It should be laid on its back with wheel sitting into the balance cock pivot, or put up on a balance tack...some are against this but i have used a balance tack forever and never once had an issue....i just wouldn’t leave it there too long. When a movement runs fast look very closely at the coils expanding and contracting - a cell phone video with slow motion works good. Make sure none of the coils are sticking and also make sure the expansion is even on both sides. when not laid properly the hairspring can get off center and coils will contract much more on one side causing it to run fast.
  32. 3 points

    Dentist/Doctor Magnifiers

    As a dentist, I have been using binocular loupes for almost 20 years. But it's just unnatural to use it for watch repair. When doing watch repair, I prefer to hunch up with the watch right in front of my nose, with wrist and elbow supports. I find that this gives me the best stability, especially after a cup of coffee. And binocular loupes have many designs. The 1 in the picture might not be suitable for everyone. It offers adjustable interpupillary distance, but there is no adjustment for declination angle and optical plane height. So unless your face fit the frames perfectly, the loupes might not work for you.
  33. 3 points

    Omega Seamaster 1337 reserection

    Hello all, I know it's 'only' an electrical one but to say I'm overjoyed is a bit of an understatement. My Grandfather gave me this, his 1982 retirement watch, 20 years ago as an empty case and strap - the innards had apperently been slowly demolished over the years by a leaky battery and where nowhere to be found. At the start of the locky-down thing I decided it was time to do a bit of research to see if the parts could be found to rebuild it, bit of a baptism of fire as a total newby. It soon became evident that this search should have been done years ago because Omega restricted parts coupled with a dearth of NOS parts was a real headache! Through all this research I also realised just how rare the case and bracelet style were so persisted for months, getting my claws on some old, rough, nasty and for want of a better word, crap bits and pieces. As we know the circuit and coil are getting really rare but even more rare it seems are the winding pinions and dials for them, and even the crap parts are ludicrously expensive. You know how you get into something, buy bits, realise your up to your neck in it but realise you're to far in it to retreat? Suffice to say, I've had so much support from several people in the watchmaker community so with their help and shear dogged, billigerence and blatant stubbornness it is finally running. Still some work to do - the date needs to start changing at half 11 because it takes two hours to change, the seconds hand needs lining up better with the minute markers and I've toyed with the idea of restoring the dial, with some lacquer and minute markers missing (or maybe not, as it's a sign of its individuality!) Having enjoyed it for a while I'll also take it all apart again and service it, only because of Lawson''s brilliant walk-through on the 1337 movement on this forum. Never really thought of a bi-colour watch like this as my style, but with the blood, sweat, tears and more sweat and tears that has gone into it, I've decided I love it to bits. Thank you all for your never ending inspiration and such generous shared knowledge Mark Lovick and everyone - great bunch of people you lot!
  34. 3 points
    sometimes pictures help.
  35. 3 points

    Screwdriver Stands

    My "beginner" set of screwdrivers weren't that great, but with better blades they got me through. Now I just keep them on my office desk for quick adjustments (okay ... it's more of a horological paperweight than anything else) but the stand it came with always bugged me. It was downright ugly and felt more like a pepper grinder when i spun it. So, me being a cross between Rube Goldberg and Emmit Brown, I decided to make one. Several prototypes later this is what I came up with. The 3D model and the actual print. The bearings are for a pair of sealed bearings for skate wheels and the inserts are removable so the size can match the color between screwdriver brands. The base is weighted and i found that it also holds my Bergeon set just fine, if that stand ever needs to be replaced.
  36. 3 points

    Bent Roller Table

    I would remove it, heat it up and remove the impulse Jewel. Then I would heat it up again and flatten it with a flat stake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  37. 3 points
  38. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    I finally got round to replacing the crystal on this Bifora 115/CLD based "F Hinds" 17 jewel, which has been waiting patiently since December 2018 for me to do something about its cosmetic imperfections. Its one I wear fairly regularly, (hence the slightly scruffy strap), so I thought since I'm on a horrible crystals purge, it deserved "the treatment". The crystal for this one came from our very own luiazazrambo via ebay. He just so happened to be the only seller I could find with the correct high dome in the correct size. I didn't even know it was his seller ID, till he PM'ed me after I had made the purchase. Its a small world. Thanks again for a prompt and painless transaction. Here is a little info about the German manufacturer Bifora. http://www.bifora-ev.de/bifora-freundeskreis/museum.html
  39. 3 points

    Newbie - Watch Repair Advice

    do you value this watch in any way? If the answer is yes then it's not going to be the first watch you repair your going to start on something disposable. On the other hand if you don't care about the watch that can be your first watch to repair. Everybody starting watch repair has an unfortunate habit of breaking things. It's part of learning watch repair and unfortunately breaking things especially vintage things usually does not end well. then can we have a picture of your grandfather's watch?
  40. 3 points
    Another 1972 Viscount. I particularly like the hands on this. Shame the crown and stem is missing, but I guess if it wasn't then the thing would have gone for a lot more.
  41. 3 points

    Where do I start with tools?

    It is interesting to read peoples comments on tools and the many diverse opinions there are. What we have to remember is that Bergeon tools in the hands of an incompetent person are just as useless as the mid priced range of tools and it is the person using the tools that makes the difference. I would agree with the remark regarding the cheap tweezers and screwdrivers as they are not up to the job, but as jdm remarked the mid to upper price range of tools are well suitable if looked after, that's the same for any tools, care and attention. In essence it all boils down to personal choice and the affordability. When starting a new hobby etc that requires the purchase of tools and equipment, Unless you are to get deep into that hobby start off slowly and build up your selection of tools etc as you go upgrading when required. There may come a time when you get bored with it and give up and then you are left with a lot of expensive kit. I have been into this for 60+ years and have still got the Dumont tweezers and the screwdrivers I first bought all those years ago not Bergeon ones, but they have served me well.
  42. 3 points

    Where do I start with tools?

    I think you have hugely overspent. As I wrote many times currently the top quality ball bearing A&F can be had as unbranded.for GBP 2.50 a piece, that makes 10 quids for the four most used one. With the balance compared to the overpriced Bergeon you could have bought a basic timegrapherand few stuff more. So you have found that the brand name is not alway needed. It's the person that does the job not the tools.
  43. 3 points


    I made this for anybody getting started, feel free to share. Recommended Lubricants for Getting Started.pdf
  44. 3 points

    step collets vs bezel chuck

    I suggest finding a 100mm Maprox 6 jaw step chuck. They crop up regularly on Ebay. Probably still run you a few hundred bucks but you'll never regret it. The jaws are machinable and replaceable, if you're lucky you might get both internal and external jaws, if not Maprox has them. These were often branded "JF", sometimes Alina, sometimes both. The jaws can be machined without need of a clamping ring, due to their clever design. Step collets are great, but you need a bunch and the steps are still rather large. You can get blank step collets of course and machine them as you like. If you are really on a budget and like making tooling Schaublin has a kind of step chuck-y type thing that's fairly simple and ultra precise. You can see in the pics it's an arbor that has a tail end identical you your lathe collets (W20 here, 5C for you). The front has a taper, 15-20 degrees is fine. Then there is a piece that slides on the arbor with a very close fit, with a taper to fit your spindle nose and a taper to go in the "collet". The "collet" is the brass piece (Schaublin furnishes blanks in steel, I make them up as needed in brass as it's usually for a onesie-twosie thing). The collet has a bore to pass freely over the arbor, and tapers at each end. It's slotted as far as possible in 3 spots. When you chuck it in your lathe it expands of course, very precisely. To machine it you just tighten the drawbar slightly, or if you want to be more secure you can make a ring that will slide on and expand to grip that. Schaublin's is naturally hardened and ground all over, but if you start with decent steel like Stressproof you don't need to harden it or grind it, just careful turning work and it should last decades.
  45. 3 points
    I'm attaching a few photos to get you started. Then a couple links. https://timepieceshoppe.com/cylinder-watch-mechanical-restoration/ https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/balance-cylinder-removal-punches
  46. 3 points
    Typically on the majority of American pocket watches the movement is set up similar to yours. This is where the watch itself has no stem as that is in the case. So your movement is fine make sure when you're putting it together to lubricate all of the stuff associated with the setting so it's slide smoothly. Link down below so you can look at the pictures. It's not really important but you're missing the micro regulator adjustment. You can still regulate the watch fine without it. Then the crown is most definitely does not look like the right crown for this particular case. It almost looks more like a wristwatch style crown for American watches. I went attached some images you can see what the wristwatch version looks like. Also a picture of the typical pocket watch stem and sleeve arrangement. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/illinois/4927242
  47. 3 points

    Watch repair tutorials

    Hello and welcome to the forum, I have attached a couple of PDFs for your interest. The witschi one may be a bit over your head at the moment but will give you an insight to the complexities of watch repairing. enjoy cheers TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf Witschi Training Course.pdf
  48. 2 points

    How quickly things can change

    Broken drills in arbors is a real problem. When repivoting, which generally requires a much shallower depth/diameter ratio (general rule is at least 3 but better 4 or 5 diameters depth), I almost always use a spade drill. These I make up as needed freehand out of tungsten carbide, and make them with noticeable back taper. The advantage is twofold; being hand ground they will almost certainly drill slightly oversize, and being "waisted" they don't stick in the hole in the event of breakage. I just did a LeCoultre escape wheel with one last week- pivot was 0.08mm, was able to do a hole of 0.14mm and have decent wall thickness. Then plug and turn down and burnish- I always figure the ultimate test of the new pivot is if it stands up to the Jacot tool. With handmade drills they are better held in a pinvice and guided by hand as they are rarely perfectly centered on their shank. As long as the center is caught correctly before drilling it's no problem.
  49. 2 points

    Hairspring rats nest

    To insert the pin back , I put the stud back in its holder tighten screw, put balance&cock back on the mainplate, run the hairspring through the studs hole, put a bit of grease or thick oil on falt side of a screwdriver( not Rodico), pick up the pin with it( pin stick to the grease) and get the pin to sit perpendicular to screwdriver, ready to aim for stud hole and push the pin home. Some grease gets on the pin, rinse it off in lighter fluid. I easily sharpen the tip of the pin if neccessary.
  50. 2 points
    iHi There are specific tools for doing this job by Bergeon but at £45 a go not cheap. TMuir put up a post with a tool he made and I also have made them myself using the metal insert from a winscreen wiper blade and a lot of work with the Dremel and an oil stone. The red,black,and green ones I bought over 30 years ago.
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