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mikepilk

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mikepilk last won the day on March 30

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About mikepilk

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  1. You could be right. I scraped off the epilame from all surfaces, and got everything spotless in the ultrasonic - naphtha then isopropanol. I put a tiny touch of oil on the chaton hole, as suggested by @rodabod, and after assembly it looked great. I had a nice circle of oil on both upper and lower jewels. But after 'exercising' the balance by giving it a blow, the oil on both jewels was no longer a circle. I thought they were Incabloc - turns out to be KIF 2, and the cap jewels are the same. Baffled
  2. Yes, then realised that was probably a mistake (?) so I tried to remove it. Also, using a microscope I can see every little mark and bit of dust, so I dabbed the jewels with some Rodico to make sure they are spotless. I realise that the Rodico may have left a deposit.
  3. I clean using naphtha, then isopropanol. I like the idea of "ghosting" the jewel hole - I'll give it a go.
  4. Here's a problem I haven't encountered before .... I'm working on a small (16mm) Omega 455 and I'm having problems oiling the balance cap jewels. The oil won't stay in a nice circle - see pic. I've tried re-cleaning and oiling 5 times (including using epilame), but still have the problem. There looks to be a small circle of oil at the end of the balance pivot, but the remaining oil is off to one side (both top and bottom). Is this something to worry about or is it OK? My technique is to oil the cap jewel on the bench (1/3 - 1/2 area covered), then place the inverted chaton on top - a slight press down and the cap jewel should stick. Only it doesn't want to with this movement. Using epilame allowed me to use a big blob of oil, the cap jewel stuck, and the oil was a nice circle, but there was too much and it went down through the chaton hole. Any ideas ?
  5. I made a tool by gluing an old broken balance staff in to a bit of brass tube. I find it useful for those annoying little Seiko Diafix jewels.
  6. This has caught me out before - one line had rolled over and looked to converge. I use a Weishi 1000 Timegrapher. Now I always do a visual check on the alignment of the impulse jewel with banking pins and pallet/escapement jewels whilst assembling the movement. I can usually get it within 1 ms that way.
  7. I would do that, but I can't find any with a 0.20 mm hole size
  8. When the hole is shaped like this :
  9. That was the first place I looked, and unfortunately, not the right size. obsoletewatchandclockparts has a selection, but again, nothing close enough. Nothing on ebay, but I'll keep watching.
  10. I need 4 brass bushes for the automatic movement of an Omega 455 (small!), but can't find any from the usual suppliers I use. The size is 1.00 x 0.2 x 0.22 (dia, hole, ht). Cousins have the complete upper bridge, but then I still need 2 for the lower. I could use jewels in the lower bridge, but the nearest Seitz size is 1.40 x 0.20. Can anyone help ?
  11. Hi @VWatchie From what I remember, I roughened up the wall of the barrel with a bit of wet and dry paper, and used a strong braking grease - 8213. I think the spring was performing OK in the end. I never did get great amplitude. As @nickelsilver suggested, this probably isn't due to the mainspring, but as it just sits in my collection, I'm not bothered. I'll have another go at it one day. It's an unconventional gear train, and the most complicated movement I've worked on - talk about springs ! Don't assume that new springs are OK - I've had several instances when I've repeatedly stripped movements to try and figure out why the amplitude has been so low, and it turned out that the 'new' mainsprings were dud - i.e. not springy Good luck
  12. Here's a link to the Incabloc website, but unfortunately your movement isn't listed http://www.incabloc.ch/en/pieces_rechanges.php You can find a description of the parts in the table above, here http://www.incabloc.ch/en/systeme_incabloc.php
  13. There's a presto tool for removing canon pinions - it doesn't have a centre push like the hand removing tools. I just bought another from ebay, as I'm modifying one to remove a 6 spoke train wheel.
  14. I agree with @JohnR725. I started with American pocket watches - mainly Waltham and Elgin , as parts (and scrap movements) were easy to find. They are much easier to work on than wristwatches. I don't buy movement with less than 15 jewels. The problem is you will find plenty of broken jewels in the movements. The good news is, it's not difficult to find replacements (whether they fit or not, is another matter !)
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