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mikepilk

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mikepilk last won the day on November 25 2017

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About mikepilk

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  1. Not a question, but I thought I'd post this for general info. I was really struggling to get the amplitude above 190 deg on an Omega cal 613. I'd fitted a new mainspring, and all the pivots looked straight and clean. Gear train running freely, barrel arbor not sticking, no loose jewels, and jewels looked good under the microscope. Hmmm I always have a good look at the jewels to make sure they are clean and not broken, but have never bothered checking one area - inside the Incabloc hole jewel. The cap jewel and top of the hole jewel looked good, but it was only when I looked underneath I found the problem. I don't know what the black bits are. They had been cleaned twice in my ultrasonic in lighter fluid, then IPA. Obviously not enough, not easy to get a brush in there. I put in new jewels and now have 275-280 deg amplitude Another item for the check list !
  2. mikepilk

    Back removal of a rotary skeleton watch

    Have a close look as there will be a wider gap somewhere, possibly near the lugs. Hold the movement in a cloth to protect your hand if the knife slips, also it stops you pressing the case closed with your fingers as you try to open it.
  3. mikepilk

    Back removal of a rotary skeleton watch

    Pretty sure it's a snap on - but they are quite tight I repaired one of these for a work colleague and needed a press to get the back on. They use a Chinese movement (Cousins ref 2888 or similar ). Not the most robust movement- they can flex and pivots pop out.
  4. Hi John. I plan to do that if I don't have any more ideas. First I want to have a good close look at the pallet fork in action - something I always struggle to do - getting just the correct magnification, lighting and angle.
  5. I've been following this with interest, as I have an Omega cal 613 with similar problems - everything looks good and runs freely when tested alone, but when assembled the amplitude won't go above 190 deg .
  6. They wouldn't change the endshake. All are flat (with the exception of some that had offset concave sections, very rare). The cut-out ones are flat both sides - unlike the 'usual' ones with one convex surface. The watch over-banked when I got it, and the guard pin has a bend in it, so someone's been playing with it. I need to see how the pallet fork and guard pin sit, then decide what to do. The pivots look OK, so I'm not sure where the problem is.
  7. I've changed them for the normal shaped ones (122.11) but still have too much end float. Maybe I can push the lower Incabloc in a touch.
  8. Strange aren't they ! Maybe so that you can oil without removing the jewel ?
  9. Stripping an MSR T43 movement, I noticed too much end float in the balance, and then found these cap jewels. I've never seen any like it. The jewel is flat, which may account for the excessive end float, the pivots appear OK. On the Incabloc site they don't reference T43, but for T44 T46 the cap stones are 122.11 which are the same as ETA 2824, 2892. Anyone seen any of these, are they correct ?
  10. mikepilk

    Why has the beat error changed ?

    That's not nice. I sent a gold case from a Longines to watchcaseworks for repair last year. Seemed one of the few places I could get a case repaired. I have had no reply, despite emails and letters.
  11. mikepilk

    Why has the beat error changed ?

    My mistake John - I was looking at the wrong figure. With the timegrapher set to 48, I'm getting Dial Up : 288/0.6 ms and Dial Down :, 288 / 0.5 ms, Crown down 230 / 0.9 ms. I don't worry about beat error unless it's really large, especially on watches without an adjustment. You can spend ages playing around rotating the hairspring, with the chance of damage at every go. I started out with American Pocket watches, I have some lovely Walthams. I use a small ultrasonic, so could have done something to the timing screws. It was good practice timing them. I have a couple of Riversides that keep amazingly good time
  12. mikepilk

    Why has the beat error changed ?

    I'm using a Weishi Timegrapher 1000. The movement is especially quiet, but I don't seem to be getting any rebanking. I just put it back together so I'll wear it for a couple of days and see how it goes. The quality of this watch has so impressed me - the way the bridges and dial fit, beautiful . I'll be looking out for more. What do you rate as 'quality movements' ? Of my own watches , Omega's from the 50's and 60's (I have Cals 565, 613, 620, 625) seem good - I prefer them to the later 1000 series which seem a bit flimsy in comparision. I also have a couple of Longines, Cal 23Z and 284 which impressed me. What's the next level up ?
  13. mikepilk

    Why has the beat error changed ?

    Frank = genius ! I never considered it was the timegrapher. I suppose with everything lubricated, the first pulse could be quieter. I can see that the amplitude is high just by looking at the balance, the TM is now showing 300, Correction .... I just set the lift angle to the correct 58 deg, and the amplitude is reading 340 deg, So I'm hoping that the timegrapher is wrong or I might get rebanking. Thanks
  14. Not a problem, but out of curiosity : why has the beat error changed when I haven't removed the hairspring ? I just fired up this lovely little Revue Cal 59 and it's showing a beat error of 0.7 m/s (DU & DD) - which I'm happy with, especially as the amplitude is 290 deg straight off. But before I stripped and cleaned it, the beat error was 0.1 m/s. The cock has no beat error correction. I had to remove the balance+hairspring for cleaning, but the stud is triangular and the regulator pin boot is fully closed, so there shouldn't be much difference there. I was just wondering what could have caused the change in beat error ? Mike BTW this is my first Revue movement and I'm very impressed with the quality.
  15. Sorry I misunderstood. I never noticed they were push fit, I thought they were machined in to the plate. They're small ! I didn't have staking set punch small enough, and the smallest pusher in my jewelling tool was too big at 0.63 mm - the lines in the pic are 0.5 mm. As I'm not worried about damaging the mainplate, I rammed it out ! If you want it, message me your details and I'll post it. Mike
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