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nickelsilver last won the day on November 5

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About nickelsilver

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  1. nickelsilver

    Movement stops after a minute

    Have a good look at the 4th wheel, likely a damaged tooth or something stuck in between two teeth.
  2. I know that everyone and every text says to never wind in by hand but every watchmaker has done it out of necessity at some point. If the spring is not too tall in regards to barrel diameter it really can be done without distorting it. Think of a typical clock barrel, might be 20mm tall and 35mm diameter. Pretty close height to diameter ratio. Taking the spring out requires a winder- as does putting it in. A typical watch barrel might be a depth (spring height) of 1.3mm with a diameter of 10 or 11mm. We take the spring out without a winder without damaging it. It can go back in too, winderless. But you do have to "wind"it. On a t-end spring get your t in the slot, and wrap around 180 degrees, in, wrap 180 degrees, in, untill you're in. As long as the height to diameter ratio isn't to small the risk is low- with a bit of practice. I used to demonstrate this to students and show that the spring remains flat after multiple in-and-outs. They got it too after a few tries. If course winder is always best but really with t-ends (or worse- seperate t pieces) handwinding is ok if done with care.
  3. nickelsilver

    clock repair tapered / straight pins id

    Haha oldhippy you just reminded me- a lot of old texts call for iron polishers, and one of my mentors used to recommend using large nails filed up to shape as they were the best iron (not steel) one could easily find. I still have a handfull of large ones in my bench.
  4. nickelsilver

    Waltham CDIA Aircraft clock

    It's been a long time but I've been into a few of these, pretty sure it has a motor barrel and what you are seeing is normal in this arrangement of it.
  5. nickelsilver

    clock repair tapered / straight pins id

    In a very old clock it may just be iron, but steel pins are the norm and quite flexible and soft too (they aren't hardened). You can get assortments from the usual suppliers that cover most needs. Brass is encountered as well, again, just regular old brass.
  6. nickelsilver

    French brass/silver guilloche desk clock problem

    There are many clockmakers who do repivoting and other such work primarily by post. Don't know where you are, but the post sort of makes everything close.
  7. nickelsilver

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    Nucejoe is correct the tube should absolutely be flush with the mainplate from the movement side. The canon pinion with driving wheel should be totally free on the center tube. The friction is between the two parts, which are snapped together. No need to disassemble, just make sure you put some heavy oil or grease at their connection.
  8. nickelsilver

    French brass/silver guilloche desk clock problem

    This is most definitely lathe work, and probably not the best to start out on. French arbors are notoriously hard, the gritty surface is the grain structure of the fractured steel. It's not a composite metal, just good old high carbon steel, hardened and tempered. If I was doing this I would stone back the rough surface in the lathe, then drill with a carbide drill. Back in the day they would harden the (steel) drill in mercury to get it hard enough to cut these, thankfully we have modern materials like carbide now.
  9. nickelsilver

    French brass/silver guilloche desk clock problem

    Hard to really see but yes, should be doable.
  10. nickelsilver

    French brass/silver guilloche desk clock problem

    Can you post a pic of the broken part? Normally it can be drilled and repaired.
  11. nickelsilver

    Roller interchangeability?

    Eta never made a watch with seperate safety rollers to my knowledge, those were more common turn of the last century up to the 40s maybe at JLC and other makers doing their own escapements.
  12. nickelsilver

    harbor freight calipers

    Some of the Chinese calipers apparently are pretty good, these days. But I have no idea which ones are which. I have Mitutoyo that are 17 years old, use a battery about once every 3 years, and check out spot on on gage blocks still after all those years of daily use. Works out pretty cheap.
  13. nickelsilver

    Roller interchangeability?

    Is the roller table or roller jewel missing? Roller jewels are held in with shellac, which holds up to normal watch cleaning solutions, and will withstand rinsing in alcohol if done quickly (alcohol will dissolve it in time).
  14. nickelsilver

    Roller interchangeability?

    Most escapements in relatively modern "normal grade" watches (say back 50-60 years) were made by one company, Fabriques d'Assortiments Réunis (now Nivarox). They had perhaps 6 different main ones that were used over various sizes and beats of watches. There actually is a chance that a roller from another similar grade, size, and beat watch might work. As an example, I bought a dozen NOS 13 ligne Unitas movements some years ago with no balance wheels. I had a box of NOS A.Schild balance wheels with hairsprings. The balances actually fit though they were really a bit too large in diameter (and the hairspring was too large in diameter to fit the regulator), but more surprising was the roller was a perfect match to the escapement. Like totally perfect. A good way to see if you might be close is to measure the distances between the plate jewels for escape wheel- fork- balance. Easier said than done, best if done on a profile projector or toolmaker's microscope, but you can get fairly close with accurate calipers and a loupe and patience. Measure several times and take the average. Each escapement had its pointage, it's sort of a fingerprint. It's really only useful information if you are trying to replace a part that is unavailable, and have the time to do the legwork. Otherwise just order a roller.
  15. nickelsilver

    Rolex 2030 with issues

    Nucejoe- if the hole drifts you can see it either with a measuring microscope or jig borer or in a faceplate, centering on the corresponding hole and comparing. All require a certain amount of equipment. Ckelly, your method of measuring bores is an established one though not ultra accurate. If you want I'll do your bushing and try to get some decent pics of the process just for educational purposes, it's a pretty quick job but you'd have to ship to Switzerland..