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nickelsilver last won the day on October 5

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  1. They are essentially the same. I've had the red handle ones for 20+ years with no problems, I'm sure either set will serve you well.
  2. Good collets cost a lot for a reason, they're guaranteed to hold a certain tolerance. That's given that they're used in a for all intents and purposes "perfect" spindle. If you can't fit the collets from the same maker in their spindle that's a big warning for me. Willy nilly opening up the spindle to accept the collets seems really sketchy, it should be ground, but if soft enough (another warning) feasibly bored. But there's a key in there, so that has to come out or be erased... I think for many just learning turning such a machine could be ok, but when hunting down microns on serious work you need a darn perfect spindle and near perfect collets. They don't come cheap, even secondhand.
  3. It's out of center, check pic for adjustment. The spring should be centered in the regulator when you're done, if it's not, push it right next to the stud to make it centered. The pins (pin and boot) should have a gap of about 1 hairspring thickness, and it should bounce from one to the other evenly when running.
  4. Maybe there was another clock somewhere that was old and there was a mixup... this one is definitely 20th century, not older.
  5. The actual form of the overcoil is a very highly studied subject and has a very real effect on the performance of the watch. If someone isn't used to the comparatively easy tasks of leveling and centering a flat spring, then reforming an overcoil to some sort of usable shape and getting it centered and flat is a tall order. I think that's what Frank is saying. It looks like the OP is doing well though, it could have gone waay worse!
  6. One thing that tips it off (aside from the general look and finish, but that takes some experience) is that Patek does very few watches in stainless steel, and when they do, they do the whole case in stainless. They wouldn't have a precious metal watch with a stainless steel back. Also, stainless Pateks are quite sought after, and easy to Google, so little chance of finding one for a few bucks.
  7. A Hamilton 21 or a LeCoultre 101? Sorry, I suppose you mean on an 11ish ligne wristwatch. The answer is kind of vague: a good few seconds. 18,000 or 36,000 BPH? Somewhere in between? Just serviced or just opened for the first time in 35 years?
  8. Not saying it's not possible to do a manual wind watch in 1.5 hours (but it would be pushing it to do it right), but on that watch there is also uncasing, cleaning and possibly polishing the case, maybe a crystal to change, timing in 6 positions, either the face time or email time with the customer, checking it a couple days later, maybe adjust, get the case out from the safe and recase, retest, box it, or contact the customer... In a service center where someone does the case work, the emails/calls, changes the solutions in the cleaning machine, orders the oil and pithwood and toilet paper, and no work needed other than cleaning and a little hit on the regulator, yes, perhaps 1.5 hours. To do 5 in a day you could take a 15 minute lunch break and one more 15 minute break if you don't have to do anything else other than sit at the bench. But then you wouldn't get 150 per watch..... I find that out of say 10 watches, I end up spending time adjusting the escapement on at least 3, dynamic poise on several as well, there's always chasing down parts from suppliers, there's always surprises. I remembering calculating how much money I could make when I was in school and was like "why isn't everyone doing this, it like free money!!". Then I started buying tools....
  9. I haven't done much with these but I found that anything other than copper for the foot just didn't work. German silver, brass, no. Copper, surprisingly well.
  10. The Seitz stone is quite fine, similar to an aggressive Arkansas. Most importantly it is very parallel top to bottom. If you have a single sided, small* diamond stone, that's not too coarse, and can check it for parallelism and it's good, go for it. *a larger stone/lap whatever will tend to not want to stay flat on the base of the tool. I haven't had a Seitz in many years but recall the place where the stump sits is pretty small, much smaller than Horia.
  11. 1000 seems high if it's just a service and doesn't need parts. From the pics I can see the hairspring is in bad shape, possibly an easy adjustment, maybe not; the minute counter jumper is bent, adjusting those is a 'make or break' exercise often. Perhaps the staff is broken, if they are unavailable that would certainly push the price up several hundred bucks. It could be the estimate is high to cover eventuals, but might come out cheaper in reality. The above 250GBP seems in line with Swiss repair prices, probably similar in the U.S., for a straight service no extras.
  12. I would make a new tube, the hand seems original. Not sure how many watchmakers are around WA who do any turning work, but I know Matt Henning in MA does parts making pretty much exclusively and also works by mail pretty much exclusively, and is a square dealer.
  13. That time is not out of the ordinary on blued steel. You get used to doing a quick touchup every few minutes on the arkansas. Before I switched to tungsten carbide gravers I would have several ready to go, rough, semi finish, finish, could make it through a staff or stem without sharpening usually. Then hit them all on the stone(s) after.
  14. When I get a boot that doesn't want to move I put some oil, thin like 9010, on its mounting point. Turn back and forth with (well fitting) screwdriver and they go free. Only recall one in 20 years that didn't work, old Lecoultre from the 20's. WWsol is right about the pin, need to be really careful, the gap should be roughly equivalent to a hairspring thickness when you're done.
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