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nickelsilver last won the day on April 7

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  1. I believe it's beryllium copper. Not very easy to find in small quantities. Steel should work ok, brass would be too soft I think.
  2. A Finn gave me the recipe the Finnish watchmaking school uses for clocks. It works well and is quite gentle. For anyone interested it's: 1 liter 99% iso alcohol 3 liters distilled water 60g oleic acid 50g oxalic acid Everything heated in a stainless pot until quite warm, then ammonia, mixed in last, adding until the solution turns clear (about 80g of 25% ammonia) The ammonia and oleic acid form a soap, and the ammonia is sort of neutralized so it doesn't eat into brass parts. The oxalic acid is a gentle rust remover.
  3. I went to straight razor 20 years ago, basically because I found a new old stock one in a fleamarket in Neuchâtel when I was at WOSTEP- and the razor was made in Neuchâtel! So I haven't bought a razor since then, except for other cool old Swiss straights (I have from La Chaux-de-Fonds and Solothurn and a LeCoultre with replaceable blade). What's funny is how what was once considered a super fine hone is now kind of medium, there's some extreme sharpness fans out there. I still use a measly 8000 grit (and it's fine). I'm sure some loon on one of the razor forums has found a way to pimp safety razor blades.
  4. The old Valjoux 7750 rotor has 7 balls from what I've seen. These have a pressed/riveted bearing, unlike the modern version with the bayonet fitting.
  5. I have pale and dark flakes, the dark definitely work better; they melt at a more reasonable heat. Didn't know about the wax (I've never used it for anything but watch work).
  6. The extra thingies (spindles/runners/chucks whatever) go in the base and are held by the screws. The above tool has two more than normal which throws the logic off.
  7. It's a roller remover. That one has a couple of extra inserts, usually it's 3. I think it's a goofy tool for removing rollers but the inserts are probably handy for pulling hands or other odd friction fit pieces. I don't think Bergeon has sold them for 30 years or so.
  8. I've noticed older Lecoultres often have quite heavy lock on the escapement, and even with a new mainspring some adjustment is needed to get the amplitude up to a reasonable number.
  9. I think it's priced the way it is because it's scientific glass, with the basket mod, with a small market. If you don't drop it you'll use it 2-3 times/day for 20 years, so not so expensive. As for Fixodrop itself, again, small market, high tech chemical, price goes up. Same with Moebius oil, it seems expensive till you realize how much work one can do with a given quantity. I find synthetic motor oils expensive given the size of the market. But they are better so I'll buy them.
  10. OK tried to get a couple of pics, the tiltedness of the hairspring doesn't look so bad but getting the pin in it does need some space to move around up and down. What's important when seating the pin is that the first bit of coil be as level as possible (you can see it a bit in the first pic). Also, as close as you can to true in the round. Once the pin is seated nip off the extra with tweezers like shown. Then seat the rest, nip off the little bit that has come out, and if doing a nice job clean up the exit point with a really fine file.
  11. I have to agree. The hairspring will need to tilt quite a bit when inserting the pin (it looks frightening), like 45 degrees. Anything that impedes that will make pinning 10x harder to impossible. I didn't see an image in a book, will try to get a pic of it.
  12. You stck it on the broach tight enough that it doesn't spin. Getting the inner end of the hairspring in the hole is kind of like potty training a 2 year old- you just have to coax ot in. The pin is similar. I used to do this on video camera for students 20 years ago and now I got nothing unfortunately.
  13. If a new spring, set the collet on top and see how much (if any) inner spring you need to remove. Ideal would be the collet just fits in the coils plus a little play. Now form the bit that will go in the collet. Slide the collet on a smoothing broach. Get the bit of spring in the hole, then in goes the taper pin. Be sure the pin is on the same side of the spring! Level the exiting part, seat the pin. Now trim it with very fine nippers. With a small fine file (6 or 8 cut), with the side honed smooth, trim the pin and fully seat the pin, then retrimming the exit side. It will look horrible until you trim the pin, but if you eyeball level the 90something degreed from the pinned point it'll look pretty good after trimming. Now you need to level and true in the round properly. It's fine work. It's handy to have a tweezer with one end shortened for fully seating the pin.
  14. The 214 is much more sensitive to the adjustment of the index and pawl jewels than the 218 (phasing). Even with the Accucell with corrected voltage, it can be tricky to get it just right. If the depthing of the jewels is a little light and if there is the smallest bit of wear on the index wheel it can cause what you are seeing. It hangs up at a tooth on the index wheel, and a shake or tap might get it to skip, and it might go along fine for a while until it doesn't index and there it sticks. That said, another possible issue is the hands or canon pinion/hour wheel. The 214 has a sort of traditional canon pinion which fits to the center wheel, but the friction/slipping actually happens with a clutch between the center post and the wheel itself. It is a very light friction (to protect the index wheel when setting time). It's rare for that friction to become too light, but on a Spaceview it's the minute hand that is keeping the hour wheel in place. If it was fit slightly too close to the hour wheel or has a little burr or something, it could intermittently bind. Just a little friction there can overcome the friction at the center wheel and the wheel train will slip, continuing to run while not moving the hands.
  15. If you slide the long curved spring you can pop the cover off and see the movement.
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