Jump to content

nickelsilver

Advanced Member
  • Content Count

    1,129
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    53

nickelsilver last won the day on August 29

nickelsilver had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

969 Excellent

About nickelsilver

  • Rank
    Distinguished Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Switzerland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. A friend of mine in the U.S. contacted a supplier some years back for 1095 and when they figured out what he wanted the guy said look, why don't we send you some "samples"; I think they wanted to help my friend but to actually sell him the quantity he needed would have been too much hassle haha. He's still using what they sent!
  2. O1 or 1095 would be good choices. It's available in numerous thicknesses, generally with 1095 having more options in the thin sizes, you'd have to check suppliers in your area to see what they offer. It's quite hard to find it in the very thin thicknesses useful for watch parts, except in the already heat treated state. You can anneal it though, which would make working it far easier. Just a quick look and I found these guys, https://springsteelstock.co.uk/ they say that they are "the small order specialists" which sounds very encouraging, and they offer 1095 from 0.1mm to over 1.5
  3. Nothing wrong with leather belts but good quality round "rubber" works great if joined correctly. It's used all over the place industrially. I have belts that have seen many hundreds of hours of run time that show no sign of breaking or wear.
  4. I think it would be cool and useful if it can be constructed in a way that Mark doesn't get his [email protected] broken constantly and isn't having to break up any disputes. If the "advanced" members are to do this it's between them point final sort of thing. I was actually thinking of offering a staff or stem (cut) per month for needy members or something but didn't really know how to offer that. That's a freebee though, so sort of out of this discussion.
  5. It's not to be disassembled. You might need to snug up the curve of the inner end of the mainspring.
  6. That sounds like a good plan. It's usually easiest to make the necessary adjustments to the spring with it mounted by itself on the upturned cock. The balance is poised with the roller in place, that is normally as far as poising goes. Very high grade watches might have modified hairspring collets that compensate the small error a normal one may introduce, but even a standard collet is pretty close (they drill for the pin opposite the slot). In more modern times much better collets have been developed that are extremely well poised. All that to say you won't mess up the poise by tu
  7. But if the spring isn't slipping properly you get the effect of holding the crown at full wind + which will make a watch which would normally have healthy but safe amplitude rebank.
  8. I think it could be the right balance, the terminal curve on the new one isn't formed, just a slight bend at the stud. It's not unfathomable that the supplier offered replacement balances like this especially if they fit different calibers; it's about 5 minutes work for a watchmaker to finish the outer coil.
  9. Yes- it's basically a simple math problem of factors. Beats with the right shared factors will make a line.
  10. I remember when I was learning I would go hang out in a few watch shops. More than a few times I watched old men (like 70) pick up a part- with a shaky hand, already impressive- then at the moment it mated with the watch it was like magic they'd have perfect control. I'd like to think that this new endeavor will help you with your shaking and ptsd, and welcome to the forum!
  11. I've never seen a paper machine that couldn't do 28,800. They usually have a few buttons on the front that list common frequencies but if you check inside they show many corresponding frequencies, so even old ones that only show up to 21,600 they can do it. Where they bite it is on really odd frequencies like 20222, 20944, that kind of stuff. And seems only JLC used those- maybe they had custom machines made to time in house? Though those were old watches from the 20s or so, I guess the old masters just did it by pure skill.
  12. I agree with John that finding some pressure sensitive paper should do the trick. I haven't used the Micromat, but did use the generation before quite a bit, however it used an ink ribbon. I do remember reading somewhere that when going to pressure sensitive paper on the Micromat you want to replace the ink plate with a metal plate. All of Greiner's stuff that I've ever used has been absolutely top quality, and it's handy to have a paper tape machine even if you have a modern timing machine as they will pick up and print weirdo watches like cylinders, detent escapements, and duplex
  13. It's a common mistake many pros make as well, but it's rebanking. Overbanked is when the safety mechanisms of the escapement are faulty and the fork can cross to the opposing banking at the wrong time, stopping the watch. If it's rebanking after fully winding it could be too strong of a braking grease. 8217 is considered a soft braking grease, I didn't quite get if you've serviced it and used that, or will service it and use that? If the former, maybe try some Kluber P125? If the latter it could be the grease is hard and useless a and a service will do it. It's highly unlikely the watch beca
  14. Epilame. The most common one watchmakers use is Fixodrop made by Moebius.
  15. That's awesome. In non-power delivery gearing, often you can get by with some serious leeway as long as nothing binds. A friend of mine worked at Breguet around 2000, he had an 80s vintage watch come in with two brass pins in the minute wheel where teeth had stripped off. His boss said ,"if it works, leave it", which he did and promptly quit haha (Breguet has massively improved in that time btw).
×
×
  • Create New...