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nickelsilver last won the day on January 16

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About nickelsilver

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  1. That technique definitely works but it's still handy to have the tool to hold the spring while you're clicking the stopwatch and counting! Did a 20944 bph itty bitty Lecoultre a few months ago like that. If you can rig up something that can grip some #5 tweezers it'd be worth the effort.
  2. Pretty sure they're set for the time zones and that's that.
  3. Can you post a few pics? I agree a bent mainplate would be a new one on me and I have a couple of decades at the bench. That's a really fine movement and while robust in use rather delicate to work on, not one I'd recommend as a first watch.
  4. It's a sign that something is dragging in the train. Whether it's simply dirt or a bad endshake or something else you have to investigate.
  5. Not trying to sound mean to the OP, but taking off the train bridge with the dial and hands on and balance and fork in...is the reverse of making progress. By suggesting getting a larger movement I mean so they can at least get the proper order of disassembly down, get used to handling parts, etc. Even taking down and reassembling a 13"' movement once with a little guidance would make tackling this little guy 20x easier.
  6. I would highly recommend not working on this movement as a first watch. Something much bigger would be far better.
  7. If you are in an uncarpeted room (most working on watches would want to be!) you will find that adding a small carpet away from the bench helps with dust surprisingly well. At one place I worked there was an about 2.5 meter long removable carpet in the hall outside the clean workshop; the boss decided it must go, "it's a dust magnet!!"... well, it was- immediately our benches were dustier. Put it back and it was 10x better. I experienced the same in a workshop I had for a while which had a tight weave industrial carpet; at first I hated it (and couldn't change it), then I realized after several months that nothing, anywhere had dust on it.
  8. Even the slightest out of level condition will influence the balance; but "pretty level" is fine. The level built in to the tool was accurate when it was made, but things could have shifted over time. If you want it really on, find the position where it behaves as level and mark a point on the level vial with a black marker so you know where the bubble should be. It does sound like you've poised it- good job!
  9. It's probably a quick fix for someone versed on chronographs but I doubt anyone will touch it without doing a full service. A competent full service will be between 3-600 dollars (give or give a hundred or two depending on locale).
  10. If everything is clean and level you should be able to stop the balance anywhere you want, at the same time, if you set it in motion it will go and go and go. If it stops abruptly it's a sign you're not clean.
  11. Agree with Klassiker, the normal test is with fork out, barrel and train in, give a few clicks on the barrel and see how the train does. When it comes to a stop you want the escape wheel to reverse direction, at least a little bit. This is an indication the train is free, and the reversing is due to the backlash between the teeth in the gear train. It's usually done with the movement clean and unoiled- the oil can impart enough resistance to stifle the backlash. Of course you want oil when running under power!. It takes around 10 turns of the escape wheel to turn the 4th wheel once- hundreds to turn the center wheel once.
  12. Those Levin poising tools are among the best ever made, I would be surprised if the jaws were misaligned- though in 60 years of handling who knows. If they are good in the vertical plane then a slight misalignment face to face really doesn't matter. Use the two moveable feet to get the integral bubble level on, and you want to swipe the jaw edges with clean pithwood before use. I usually have the jaws slightly closed so that the pivots almost rest on their conical portion, then open up a bit once the balance is in place. If the balance has a serious poise issue it will roll toward the heavy spot- you want to stop it every quarter turn or so and see if it rests (it will just keep spinning from momentum often if you don't intervene). Once it's close, manually move it in 90 degree increments and see that it stays put. Once it does you're poised.
  13. It's normal the train will be more free without the 4th wheel, that's the 2 out of the 5 wheels in the train removed, keeping in mind there's a roughly 7.5x reduction in torque from one to the next. Pivot does look ok.
  14. Minuter counter jumper is too tensioned, or minute counter wheel misaligned, minute counter jumper may be under or over minute counter wheel. The other issues are probably just due to needing a service.
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