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nickelsilver last won the day on November 20

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  1. Old pieces where the oil has gone solid require a lot more work than usual. You'll need stiff brushes that fit into the teeth of the gearing, pith wood to stick pivots and pinions in, pegwood to clean off and in jewels. Then a new total clean. The old oils can be so tenacious that even extended washing in heavy duty pro cleaning solutions barely touch them.
  2. The train freedom test is a good one and should always be done, but even if free with backlash sometimes things change when everything is actually under power; do have a good look at the teeth of the 3rd wheel and 4th pinion.
  3. A common ETA auto like a 2824 might take 12 hours or more of wear to go from totally down to fully wound. If you take it off before bed, it will run down those hours, then when you put it on in the morning it will be back to fully wound in just a few hours. So, if putting on an "empty" watch, it's a very good idea to give it a dozen or so winds on the crown to get it up and running, then wearing will take care of the rest. In the case of this watch, it's quite possible that the watchmaker didn't service the reversers correctly. The old technique that ETA themselves promoted was to dilute some Moebius 9020 with benzine, like 2 drops of oil in 10ml, soak the reversers, dry, then install. Now they recommend Lubeta 105, again a soak method. If they were cleaned and not lubed, that's a problem. If they were cleaned and over lubed, that's a problem. If the bearing of the rotor wasn't lubed, again a problem (they recommend Lubeta 106 for that now, but a light touch of 9010 works fine). I would say it needs to go back to the watchmaker but I'm not too confident they will do much better. It's true that very sedentary people tend to have problems with automatics, but it was ok before, so...
  4. Since it's regularly happening every 8 seconds I'm thinking a gearing problem; the 4th wheel has 8 teeth in its pinion, which will equate to 7.5 seconds per tooth "in action"- but it would be odd that all the teeth on that pinion or the 3rd wheel that drives it would be damaged and damaged equally. Though if for example the train bridge was removed with power on the watch the 3rd wheel teeth may have zipped accross another component raising burrs or something. Is the train nice and free with the balance and fork out?
  5. The click on a 72 is next to the column wheel, there's a pin sticking up through the bridge that you can hold to let down the power.
  6. Generally speaking you can replace a pallet stone with another of the same width, and that has been shaped for the appropriate side of the fork (entry or exit). Let's say for your average vintage watch, a replacement stone from Seitz or other assortment will probably be just fine. You do run into issues with certain escapements for higher end watches from back in the day or modern watches with higher beats and more teeth in the escape wheel; often older high end escapements might have significantly different face angles from "common", and modern escapements have very different angles for sure. Usually it's possible and normal to replace an entire fork for a modern watch. With vintage/antique it can be very advantageous to fine tune the angle on the impulse face. One issue with replacement stones is that they are sometimes just too long overall, and need to be shortened. This is usually done on the end that fits in the fork as it just needs to be approximately squared off; I do it with a fine diamond grinding wheel (7 micron) holding the stone in a tiny vice. I suppose it could be done with a fine diamond file, but these will tend to chip the stone and while not affecting the function it is unsightly.
  7. In theory you can work ruby with anything harder or as hard (diamond is worked with diamond), but it's so easy and cheap to get diamond lapping compounds and powders that it's really the way to go. I'd suggest a copper lap rotated in the lathe, but almost any material is ok- acrylic, iron, etc. For pallet faces I would use 1micron diamond, it will cut slowly but surely and leave an entirely satisfactory finish.
  8. I've worked on a number of perpetual calendars but not a UN (done a bunch of their repeaters though). Do you have any specific questions?
  9. Many people use brass or nickel tweezers for pretty much all work except where finer or more specialized tweezers are necessary. Most professionals I know use brass/nickel for majority of their work. Not only are they less prone to mark parts, they are very easy and quick to dress, and being slightly soft compared to steel, they tend to hold parts better without them flying away.
  10. Yes that Seiko spring is similar to many of the Kif models, and I think should indeed fit into the rounded slot. The lower tools are for shock springs that are sort of a "bayonet" mount, where there are usually 3 openings in the bloc and corresponding protrusions on the spring. They are easy to damage when inserting, thus the tools; but a piece of pegwood that has had its end made concave with a round burr works very well too.
  11. Don't have a video, but if you look at the pic it's a matter of the design of the bloc. The spring has to come in from the back, the outside. Some blocs have more of a chamfer at the perimeter, and where they are seated may have a decent chamfer, and some of the smaller springs have a smaller "T" end, and can be coaxed into place one "T" tip at a time without disturbing anything. But often the bloc needs to be pushed out a bit to allow access to the slot for the T. And, on some calibers the slot for the T is too accessible and the spring wants to fall out when open. On Incabloc the concept is it remains captive, but on some smaller calibers (like 5x7 ladies movements) particularly on the dial side the bloc sits proud of the mainplate surface and the spring just falls out when open.
  12. Quite often (not always though) the bloc needs to be pushed out a bit or even completely to fit the spring. I personally wouldn't want to do it with a staking tool, a jeweling tool would be perfect. AlexiJ1, if you can carefully measure the remains of your spring you can look at this list to find a part number, then this page at cousins for the part. Inca's site it surprisingly full of useful info, you can see all the spare parts lists by caliber or dimension here. Unfortunately they don't list your specific caliber, but by measuring you should be OK.
  13. Put the screw/nut back on, you don't need to move the thimble (the barrel with the graduations 0-99). For future reference, it's held in place with that screw/nut, but is fitted on a taper and needs some coaxing to get off and move around. If you loosen screw K you can move the inner sleeve, it will just slide around. Get it where you want it and tighten K and you're done.
  14. You can definitely move the fixed anvil toward the mic head (to the right). Just enough that you clear the table. On one of mine there is only maybe 0.10mm clearance, but that's fine. Once you've done that show us what it's doing on the scale and we can advise. The collar H is to tighten a collet that takes up the play on the spindle. You won't need to touch that.
  15. Mobile DTE series of oils are "hydraulic" oils that are commonly used also in machine spindles. Here I buy from Motorex, their Correx HLP line, which is great for machine spindles, is "hydraulic", and specced for use in hydraulic systems and plain and rolling bearings. I don't know the full story on Mobil 1 going abrasive, it was about 20 years ago; I did look it up back then but can't find anything now. The fact that the fellow re-serviced a number of tower clocks made it seem pretty legit, but in poking around I see that a number of clockmakers recommend it these days. I think the issue in the clocks is the very slow moving components, and long interval between cleanings. In a lathe spindle I doubt there would be any issue at all.
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