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nickelsilver last won the day on January 16

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  1. The balance is poised with the roller table in a specific position , so best to move the hairspring.
  2. For something like this I place the hand on hard rubber, like a hockey puck, and press down with a round bar, rolling as needed to get the shape. It goes pretty quickly.
  3. Dang that's a good looking movement for 7 jewels! I'm sure weasol will come up with the specific caliber and a tech sheet shortly.
  4. If you are comfortable working on automatics with date etc., then a 7750 isn't too hard. What is a big issue with Breitling is they fit the chrono hands so tightly that it's almost a given that they will deform when removed, and quite often the seconds hand will leave its pipe on the chrono runner pivot. Of course new Breitling hands are available only to authorized repair shops. So it becomes a matter of redressing the hands as well as can be, and refitting the pipe (sometimes it's easier to make a new one).
  5. A hard thing to replicate with old lume is the texture, they are never smooth, usually with a grainy look. I've used ground up colored chalk, mixed with lacquer, to get the look. Lately I've been using UV glue as well with good success. It takes a few tries to get something that isn't too much chalk, which is hard to work with, or too liquid, which makes it hard to bridge the gap. Also, with lacquer, it does shrink as it dries, which can be good or bad depending on what you want. The UV glue stays the same.
  6. The Valjoux 23 and 72 and their cousins all suffer from weak ratchet wheel teeth. A tooth can break at any time; I am thinking that on the last winding a tooth came off and is now jamming things. The click is just barely visible through a hole to the left of the chrono castle wheel viewed as in the pic if you want to try to let the power down, but it will need full disassembly to get to the ratchet wheel.
  7. It's a little hard to describe it. With automatics also it's quite easy to kink the spring just after the bridle too*, but here goes. Get the spring started in the barrel, like the first turn in, as would feel natural (i.e. just do it). From there, you want to manipulate the spring, turning the part out of the barrel around by half turns until that bit will drop in, continuing until the spring is in. The important thing is to not stress the spring. It works with watches because almost inevitably you are working with a low profile barrel, compared to a typical clock for example. So
  8. It will lift straight out, could be a pretty snug fit, but just be patient and lift a little all around.
  9. Yes a cylinder movement uses a cylinder escapement. As watchweasol correctly said, the tampons are plugs in the ends of the cylinder which are also the pivots. As the cylinder is drilled through (thus a cylinder, haha), plugging the ends is the only solution. Tampon is French for plug. I've never had a huge assortment of tampons or cylinders, and always figured that by the time I sorted through and made whatever modifications necessary I could have just made a new one so I do that. Cylinders are a bit of a pain to make, the tampons not so bad. I do have a large assortment of cylind
  10. It should just lift out. Sometimes they are a bit tight and need a little levering carefully with a screwdriver or case knife.
  11. I have the Bergeon extractor, an old one so "old school quality", I don't think it's ever actually worked for me. Also, the standard tips are too big for most modern stuff. I agree with Marc, try backing it out. Very often the remaining bit is actually loose once the head comes off. If it's tight, I've had better luck than the Bergeon tool using a jeweling tool, using a pusher and stump that effectively do the same thing, clamp the screw by its ends, then swing the plate/ part around. Often have to make up pusher and or stump to fit, but it's a few minutes work. In the
  12. Can we get a pic with the balance at rest? Perhaps someone got very motivated poising it in the past and removed a lot of weight from screws. Or, it could be missing a screw... though that usually would give a much greater gain, like hundreds of seconds. However- the regulator pins have been spread quite wide, and it is set way past a normal position in trying to slow it down, so if the pins were closed as they should be and the regulator was in the middle AND it had decent amplitude*, you might actually have a few hundred seconds gain. *quite often, but not always, these old pocke
  13. For resurfacing my carbide burnishers I use a 45 micron / 280 grit diamond plate for my finest one, my regular burnisher is done with an 80 micron resin bond diamond wheel. I think 600 grit is too fine. To take off about 0.01mm at that diameter should take anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute depending on the burnisher and pressure. Thin oil is good, many here use almond oil, some use lavender oil. The Mitutoyo 0.001 reading mics I've seen have been digital and are even more unwieldy and have less feel than their simple brothers, I bet a coke you've squished your pivots
  14. The engagement looks right to me. Check that the brake is free to lift from that position, perhaps there's something blocking it.
  15. It's supposed to hit that (that's the brake) then lift it as it continues. Looks fine to me except there should be grease there. A little grease in the right spots can take a chronograph from faulty to flawless.
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