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nickelsilver

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nickelsilver last won the day on April 12

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  1. Exactly, I was pretty sure Fried showed it. If you want to get fancy you drill it rather than turning the pivot, then you can fit any size pivot for a counterbore.
  2. You need a piloted counterbore. Bergeon sells sets but I doubt they have a corresponding size, they are easy to make and described in several books. It's a 10 minute lathe and file job.
  3. You didn't rinse off the cleaning solution? You have to rinse it. For that one they say to rinse with water, the dry with warm air. I would do 2 or 3 rinses in distilled water, then a dip in isopropyl alcohol, then air dry. Before the peanut galley chimes in- no a 30 second dip in alcohol will not harm the shellac.
  4. Well, it's filthy, the large pieces of dust alone could be causing it to barely/not run, there appears to be congealed old oil and verdigris on the hairspring collet and the guard pin of the fork, the hole jewels look dirty, the roller jewel is covered in some sort of oil or grease and should be totally clean, and like Joe said the lower pivot appears to be damaged (too short).
  5. Either be a magician and do it with a 5x loupe, or go pro* and use a microscope . *been using a microscope for this since I was in school last century. Also, as Hunter S. Thompson said, when the going gets weird, the weird go pro. My kids know that dad is a pro level weirdo.
  6. All loupes will have a sort of blurry "halo" around the view, but will have a usable inner area. With high power loupes, that's anything 10x and over, everything gets smaller, working distance, and field of view. I use Asco loupes at 10x and 12x, above that I just go to the microscope. I have both aplanetic and achromatic Ascos, the field of view is the same, as I understand the achromats are aplanetic with the addition of color correctness (good for working with gemstones); they have a decent field of view, and a noticable blurry halo. These loupes have a lens size of about 13mm. I have an ol
  7. Two things that rarely come up for sale are modern cleaning machines and modern pro-grade timing machines. When they do, they often approach new prices. The Greiner ACS 900 is sort of the industry standard at the moment, they go for about 12k Swiss Francs; friend of mine was very very happy to find one a few years ago for 8k, with a few years of use on it already. If you check Lititz Precision Products they offer a similar fully automatic machine, with 5 baths, and ultrasonic all around, for 7500 US, about half of Greiner and they are apparently similar build quality. They have a
  8. The ball bearings are marketed by Butterworth clocks in the U.S., a distributor of German clock movements. As I understand it, the bearing mod came about as a result of the terrible plated pivots some of the German makers started using in the last quarter of the 20th century; many clockmakers feel that once the plating starts to peel off, the soft steel underneath is unsuitable as a pivot, so you either repivot or replace the whole wheel. With the bearings (installed as intended), the pivot is a firm fit in the inner race via a bushing, and voila. It seems initially they were just for the grea
  9. I wonder if Lorch used the Schaublin B6 as its base? The B6 5mm x 0.706. looks pretty close. A lot of the smaller collets have weird thread pitches in metric, the B6 0.706mm pitch is exactly 36 threads per inch; I think some of these came out of the American watch tool industry. It looks like the tap and die maker DC Swiss offers a tap for this thread, W5 is the reference.
  10. First thing is flip it to setting position and wiggle around the bail. These can get put into set position when casing, the square on the flip up bail needs to seat. The hack mechanism can be touchy and honestly is best left however it is, unless you like decasing and tweeking ultra delicate things multiple times. If it was running fine uncased it's almost certainly a simple stem engagement issue.
  11. If I was doing this, and making a new one wasn't an option, I would check the existing hole diameter with plug gages, then bore a step the correct diameter to friction fit a modern jewel into the setting. You can't use a reamer or through-bore it as the upper side of the setting will be destroyed and look terrible. Most of the time these setting have a deep cut around the hole for the jewel to provide material and access for burnishing over, this one looks like there's enough to bore to the next jewel size. The friction fitted jewel will hold like any other friction fitted jewel, and the repai
  12. The hack on these can get out of sorts, but it's pretty rare. But can happen. So that's a possibility. But I've worked on them ex-factory service where 9 out of 10 screws were loose, to the point it was comical except that the customer wasted their money on the factory service.
  13. If it's the one I'm thinking of it's likely a snap back. As this is a 7751 base (with column wheel), my first guess would be a screw came loose and is blocking the movement. The 7750 calibers are known for working the movement screws loose if they aren't tightened to 80ft/lbs.
  14. In professional work it's quite normal to let a watch run number of days before final regulation. 7750 is usually quite stable from the start, what would be interesting is to know the true state of wind of yours over this period; it seems you were observing the time not the displayed rate on a timing machine. If the regulator pins are not close enough you can have a quite large difference in rate between relatively normal amplitudes. Overall I would expect a 7750 to be more stable than this.
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