Jump to content

nickelsilver

Member
  • Content Count

    489
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

nickelsilver last won the day on August 20

nickelsilver had the most liked content!

About nickelsilver

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

Profile Information

  • Location
    Switzerland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Are you going for a flat polish or rounded polish? I'm guessing rounded (which is pretty much anything besides mirror flat/black; from slightly rounded to domed). In that case Oldhippy has you on track, chuck the screw by the threads, smooth out the head with a few grades of abrasive paper or stones, then in my case I use a micromotor tool with a felt buff and polishing paste, no need for diamond. White paste for polishing stainless that comes in a stick. Screw spinning in lathe, hit it with the felt buff at 5-10k rpm in the micromotor. You might spend 3 minutes per screw total if they're really rough to begin with. Micromotor can be Dremel, Proxonn, or fancy pro stuff, the screw doesn't know the difference.
  2. That's awesome, is it your invention? I have a Spiromatic, which is a very cool machine, but it's a curiosity on my shelf- the Luthy tool gets used as it's just simpler for onesies (sometimes with a stopwatch when I do a weird Lecoultre with 20222 or 20944 for example). I'd be interested in the one you posted.
  3. Nucejoe, if the run to the banking and/or drop lock are too small (yet still functionally safe) then yes there could be too much amplitude, causing rebanking.
  4. There's no way really other than checking the escapement functions. Some forks have a significant gap at the back where the jewel sits, some none, generally somewhere in between. As even a move of 0.01mm will have a real impact on performance there's no shortcut. Luckily it seems few forks get 'adjusted' willy nilly as it requires heating up, on the other hand I think every American watch with eccentric bankings I've seen has had the bankings put in the weirdest positions.
  5. OK, here are the bad boys. The curving ones I have go from 00 to 5, the lifting ones from 00 to 4. The example hairspring would be about right for a deck watch- very big, and the largest of both sets worked well. You can see in the 4th pic that the end of the lifting tweezers can be adjusted for the thickness of the spring (red circle) and how far it pushes (screw in blue circle). I just did a simple overcoil, there are many shapes, here the goal was to get the curve to follow one of the spirals more or less imagining in our imaginary watch that would be where the regulator lies.
  6. Welcome! I lived in Tucson before going to watchmaking school, really loved it there.
  7. If you broke a barrel tooth it was probably wound up, and there are likely other damaged wheels/pinions- have a good look at them.
  8. How are you holding the screw for polishing? Typically it would be held in a tripod tool if going for a flat polish. I would recommend a couple of paper steps before polishing, I typically use 20 micron for serious flattening then 12 micron and go straight from there (after cleaning) to diamond paste, Aluminum is not a good substrate for polishing, the surface oxidizes in minutes and that is as hard as ruby. If you don't want to find or make a tin or zinc plate, thick plexiglass works well. Roughen the surface with a clean file before using.
  9. 9415 is a thixotropic grease. It reduces drastically in viscosity instantly at the shear point when objects it's applied to are in motion, and returns to it's thicker state when at rest. It's good stuff.
  10. Yes, I don't think they've been made for some time and any offered as new were/are remains of old stock. There was a time even in the 70s as mechanical watches were heading toward supposed extinction that women churned out piecework of vibrated springs matched to balances from home. They'd have a Greiner Spiromatic and some killer tweezers and do this stuff at a speed and precision that's unbelievable. I'm almost sure the lady I met at Parmigiani from the post above was one of these workers, pulled in from semiretirement. There's no demand for such tools now and there's enough on the used market to satisfy the collectors and occasional users. My set has been updated numerous times in the last 20 years as I found better examples to replace the ones I had, selling off the lesser pieces. Being in Switzerland we're a bit spoiled as you stumble upon this stuff at random flea markets. I found a selection of screw slotting files a few months back, really fine ones they don't make anymore, for two bucks a piece, new old stock.
  11. That should work fine. If you do 2-3 rinses in distilled water a very quick rinse in isopropyl alcohol will have no effect on the shellac on the fork (like 30-60 seconds). The isopropyl will soak up the water and then dry quickly, with a warm air flow either from the cleaning machine, a separate dryer, or just a hair dryer. The warm air is a must to avoid condensation from the cooling effect of the evaporating alcohol.
  12. Won't be in the shop till Tuesday probably, but will say I've done a bunch of overcoil springs from scratch and only rarely use these specialized tweezers. There are other ways to raise the coil and I usually form the curve with two #5s. The special tweezers are useful when doing several or more of the same, you can set the coil raising ones up to repeat well, and find the curving ones that suit the form you're doing. I remember visiting Parmigiani back turn of the century and there was a lady doing a really small caliber overcoil, I think she took about 5 minutes to time it with an old school vibrating tool and like 30 seconds to raise and form the coil with the special tweezers. It'd be a half day work with the same equipment for a competent hairspring guy who didn't do them all day like she did.
  13. I don't have a link but I have a full set of both styles, I'll post some photos when I'm back in the workshop.
  14. Those are for raising the overcoil, the curved ones for forming its curve. There are about 8 different sizes of each.
  15. The jaws (anvil and spindle officially) are notched, and fine (thin). The notches allow easy measuring between shoulders on an arbor. The table allows setting parts down like jewels and checking diameters. On a staff with a broken pivot you can get the staff between the jaws (and on thd table, using tweezers) and visualize the needed extra usually within 3-4 hundredths. I have a bunch of mics, handheld, vertical, horizontal. I use the handheld the most, then horizontal, then vertical. I wouldn't be without any of them.
×
×
  • Create New...