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nickelsilver last won the day on March 3

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  1. There's a lot of good info in this thread, just to chime in and stress that the hole really needs to be re-centered before proceeding. Often the wear is within the oil sink, and that is normally well centered, and you can use that as a visual guide. In your case the wear has gone outside the oil sink; ideally here I use a compass with a wide point and scriber tip and make a now concentric circle around the hole, then file up to that with a round file. Then ream to size for a bushing.
  2. There are two principal ways the plate locks, either with a wedge and screw which pushed the wedge into the post in the plate like Watchweasol's (seems maybe that one just uses the screw but I suspect the screw is a replacement and the wedge has gone missing), or with an eccentric cam. The one Nsteyn needs an eccentric cam. It can be made if you have a lathe, you'll want a 4 jaw chuck to set the piece off center to make the eccentric part (can also shim it in a collet or 3 jaw chuck). The pic is from a little Star I have, other Stars I have use a screw and wedge, so it's not even manufacturer specific.
  3. As said above, these can be a really tight fit, in some cases they are friction fitted right where they seat, on others they are tight all the way along the shaft. I use levers like in the photo (these are Bergeon, about 10" long) to unseat it, then if it's still tight I use the little puller to coax it off the rest of the way. Getting it off is one thing, reseating it is another. You will need a hollow punch with a deep enough hole to pass the length of the arbor. In my case I made it, probably you can get by with a piece of brass tubing. The other issue is hand alignment after; on most clocks the hub on the minute hand can be rotated to align it with the strike, but on some there is just a square in the hand itself with no adjustment. Here you need to pay attention to the position of the cam in relation to the square so you aren't striking at 12 minutes past or something. All that said, if it's yours and you are confident it is clean and not worn, just leave it. For a customer I will remove it no matter what. In my experience wear is more likely at the pivot that carries gathering pallet, the other cam OH mentioned first. These are usually much easier to remove.
  4. This is how I do them, except I don't try to save the cap, I just get it out and make a new one. But that fellow's technique is really good!
  5. A normal canon pinion would move things too, but good catch. That micro canon pinion should be disassembled and greased like any canon pinion though. All things said, with pallet fork out, setting time or winding will have a similar effect if the fork is out.
  6. Start with top left, then third row from left 4 punches down, then a flat punch.
  7. Even though they hammer into your head in school to never ever use the centering punch for anything but centering, I find it's the best for staking these tubes. I start with that, then the smallest round nose punch, then a flat punch.
  8. CaptCalvin's advice is pretty spot on, only thing I'd add is a little goes a long way regarding how hard you tap, and better to err on the side of too little.
  9. A big issue with staking or restaking tubes like this is distortion of the tube itself. I've made up stumps with a hole diameter ever so slightly bigger than the tube, depth ever so slightly less than the length, so I can rerivett the darn thing without bending or otherwise deforming it. They can be a real bear.
  10. Ha, I honestly don't know, but I think it is practically nothing. The date wheel takes a while to pull the date disc around. On some watches with instantaneous systems you might see 5-10 degrees drop while it's arming the system.
  11. Ok! To me it looks like there is quite little room between the wheels in the stack, and the wheels are quite thin; my first thought is that the discs may have a hair too much play on their tenons, and be tilting during a jump sometime, either causing a misjump or making one jump that shouldn't. Could we see what the underside of the discs look like? Another possibility is jumper tension; I think the discs are in engagement with the wheel stack in general, except when on a 'missing tooth' time, if the jumper tension is too light, or again if there is some play and the discs can come out of engagement with the jumper, then you'll go out of synch. Of course if the jumper tension is too high, you'll lose amplitude or stop the watch...
  12. That's probably not the best watch to do your first staff on. There are probably at least two different pivot size options, then perhaps differences in the roller table fitting or balance hole diameter. Add to that it likely has been restaffed at least once to several times, and the balance jewels may be cracked or have been changed to different/wong size in the past. All that said, there are references out there that should indicate the theoretical correct staff, a couple of members here have the info and will certainly chime in. Give it a try, but if you hit a snag don't get discouraged- it could be several things outside of your control.
  13. That's for clocks, and looks complete.
  14. Staked means rivetted, and there's a big difference between a rivetted union and press fitted.
  15. Can you show more of the mechanism? I have a sneaking suspicion that those teeth are missing for a reason. Both discs only jump at the same time on some jumps, on others the left hand one doesn't. How that works remains to be seen.
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