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Everything posted by mikepilk

  1. Here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSMVmvlbk4s
  2. 36 hours is fine. Ranfft gives a power reserve of 40 h http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Longines_6942
  3. The dial feet must have broken off. You will need to remove the dial and either attach new ones - I've superglued them on, or they can be soldered (tricky) use double sided sticky tabs to secure the dial (not great) look for a new dial Can you remove the dial and post a pic of the back of the dial and movement ?
  4. That's what they look like. Unlikely a Seiko one would fit. Have a look here http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/Smiths-De-Luxe-and-Astral-Parts.htm - There's an Astral click spring listed. John is very helpful and knows about Smiths parts - I suggest you send him an email and ask if the click spring will fit. Also see here https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/smiths-generic-parts
  5. Hi John, I use Ranfft to get the reserve times. I just tried manually winding the barrel with a screwdriver to see when it slips - I got 6.5 turns (I don't know if ETA give a figure?) but that seems OK to me. After 24 hours I'm getting about 230° DU, so it's OK. Looks like the mainspring is a little tired.
  6. The click is Seiko like - see pic I don't believe your movement is cal 94 - I think those are batch numbers. It's probably a Cal 60564 - see pic here smiths-astral-national-17 A good source for Smiths parts is John Senior at http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/ You could try https://www.smithswatches.com/ or look for a scrap movement on ebay. If all else fails, it's probably easy enough to make one as it's just a flat bit of spring steel..
  7. Useful info (as always) @nickelsilver I've also been guilty of blaming low amplitude on the mainspring too often, and changing it as a matter of routine. Thanks to your info, I now rarely change them. BUT I now always assemble the barrel without the spring to check the arbor is free. (Though I have just serviced an ETA 2789 : amplitude 280° but only about 30 h power reserve, which could be a tired mainspring). I agree about the quality of Longines movements - I have a few from the 60s-70s and they are just so nice to work on. They just fit together so well, and I've always had great am
  8. Page 195 - on your recommendation I bought the book! The Cousins steel is called "pivot blue steel, hardened and tempered". So should do the job. But then I thought that of their drills
  9. I guess a "spade" bit is what is called in my Fried book a "pivot drill" ? Can I use what Cousins calls "pivot steel" to make them ? I don't have a lathe, but I could put some in a drill and use a file to create the waist. What is a D-bit ?
  10. Just getting rid of the flat faces has made a big difference - they actually cut now ! The flat faces weren't allowing the drill to bite in to the surface - just heating the drill and polishing+hardening the brass. At least I know I can use the drills and not bin them.
  11. I've never managed to straighten a pivot more than a tiny amount - anything more and they've all broken. A chance to practice replacing balance staffs !
  12. I'll have to do some research on drill angles - something I know nothing about. But looking under the microscope - the ends are just ground off flat - no 'relief' (?) angle (see pics below). I just had a go re-sharpening using a dremel and fine stone - but that's much too aggressive on small drills. I have a 1000# diamond knife sharpening 'stone' - holding the drills in a pin vice and working under the microscope, seems to work nicely. But I haven't figured out the technique yet : not sure how to get the relief angle. But even after my first attempt, the drills cut much better
  13. I was expecting it to be easy, especially as I had bought some new "German" drills from Cousins to replace my cheap Chinese ones. That's why I was surprised when I had so much difficulty. It turns out that the drills are rubbish. I sharpened some of my old broken Chinese drill bits using a diamond file, and they cut fine.
  14. It's 2 - balance wheel and hairspring with roller
  15. Thanks. I found that, like tweezers, they are a tool worth paying for good quality. I have some Horotec levers which are great.
  16. Do these types of hairspring on ETA movements (2789) just lever off (I know some Seiko can't be removed) - thought I'd ask before I risk damage ? I've run out of adjustment to set it in beat, so I need to turn the spring. I could turn the roller, but don't fancy pressing it back with the hairspring fitted.
  17. Hi @Nucejoe. I solved the problem. I pushed the ring on to a felt cone polisher on my electric drill. With the drill clamped to the desk, I used a fine file to take the ring diameter down until it fit. ( I wish I had a lathe) The only problem then was about a 0.5 mm gap between the dial and the inside of the case. Fortunately I found a thin gold tension ring from a glass which fitted perfectly. As @LittleWatchShop suggests, a 3D printer would be good for making this sort of part.
  18. I couldn't get the images loaded yesterday - it's worked now
  19. I'm tempted to get one - I'll do some more research first
  20. I thought the same, and have been browsing 3D printers on Amazon this afternoon ! I've no experience of 3D printing - but was considering something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DR3WCV5?pf_rd_r=EAGSGGBV9W97H6V5B3NS&pf_rd_p=6e878984-68d5-4fd2-b7b3-7bc79d9c8b60&pd_rd_r=8d24a0b5-2ebb-484f-8e1d-0c716f116a7f&pd_rd_w=Keueh&pd_rd_wg=wx3l9&ref_=pd_gw_unk
  21. Just Earl Grey for me - no milk, no sugar, just tea (the same way I like my coffee - no frothy milky latte mocha etc, just pure coffee)
  22. I've been on and off all day with no problems.
  23. That's always my first search - didn't see anything suitable
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