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Everything posted by oldhippy

  1. Sounds like worn or broken teeth. Also check that you have used the correct screws.
  2. Thank you for your introduction and welcome Graham to this friendly forum.
  3. I used to advise a reputable Antique shop when it came to buying clocks. As Long case clocks seam to take priority on the forum I will keep to that. The first thing I would look for was its originality in movement and case, certainly the type of wood or woods used and condition. An example a good Mahogany case with good colour is better than an Oak case. A case made of rare wood is better than the previous. A brass dial is better than a White dial (painted dial) Is the movement original to the case? If it is a marriage, leave it alone. Some dealers will say it was married around 150 years ago and is acceptable, I do not agree because it is not original. Any work on the movement has to be good the less the better, don’t bother with altered movements. Look at the case careful to see if it has been altered. Many cases have been shortened, many years ago the clock would be standing on a stone floor and it would get wet from damp and regular floor washing, the damp or rotting wood would be sawn off. Always look at the bottom of the case. Marks inside the case can help, such as rubbing on the inside of the back, is it in line with the pendulum. Bottom inside ledge for the door are there rubbing marks due to the weights constantly going up and down and catching on the ledge, do they fit to the shape of the weights, if so that is a sign of originality. What about the hinges of the door, extremely old cases they will be fixed by nails not screws, nails back then were nothing like we use today. The same goes for the lock for the door. Any part that has modern screws be aware. Brass dials fit directly to the movement and normally by four pillars. White dial or painted dials have what is called a false plate between the back of the dial and the movement, if not then there is something amiss. Even the glass can tell you something, if it has blemishes and is thicker in places it is telling you it is very old and could be as old as the clock or it has been replaced a very long time ago. Look at the way the glass has been fixed. Hands are most important with experience you can tell if the hands are, correct with the period of the dial. An example if the clock has a seconds hand and the clock dates back to the early 1700 century the hand will be plain and small. The pillars of the clock pay an important part you can date the movement by their design. The clock maker depending who he is will play a huge part when it comes to value, It is experience as to how much the clock is worth and its demand. This is just a small part of how you determine the value of a Long case clock. I hope you find it useful
  4. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  5. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  6. The weight is correct. If it had been an 8 day and made in London then the weights might be brass, but not in a 30 hour movement. You cannot tell if it started out as chain or rope driven by the photos, you need to look at the spikes on the wheel to see if they have been changed in its lifetime. The pendulum bob is new so not original. The lock on the door is broken or missing that is why it has this outside fitting so as the door will close. The small counter weight (its called a donut) is new, It has no signs of wear, also the pulley might not be original, if the movement were chain driven the pulley would be much wider. The obvious has been pointed out. Not seeing the movement is not good. I suspect a marriage, I don’t think that is a London makers case something tells me it is not right. The asking price is completely bonkers.
  7. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  8. All clock repairing that needs a lathe can be achieved on a Unimat 3. It can handle long case clock barrels and the centre wheels. They do not come any bigger than that. I don’t think for one minute you will be undertaking Turret clocks.
  9. At some point, you will need a lathe for clock repairs. Not all of these movements do you find the balance pivots worn. I was just pointing out the major problems that can happen. It might be a good thing to look out for spares; years ago, you could buy a box of replacement staffs. One way to stone the balance would be to hold the staff in a pin vice, rotate it while stoning. I have never undertaken such work in this way. A few practice runs on steel pins would be a good start.
  10. That is a 30 hour. Here is a photo of the balance wheel and how it is held between the two oil cups. It already shows you how the hairspring should be, also how it is pinned. Three things can go wrong with this. 1 The hairspring can be mangled up, 2 the balance pivots can be worn and need to be put into a lathe and re-pointed with a small Arkansas stone. Picture a blunt pencil then turned into a sharp one. 3 The oil cups can wear inside and need to be re-placed or with the right drills cleaned up. You cannot re-bush the movements the plates are too thin. I know the photo says alarm clock balance. The clock movement in what you are going for its the same.
  11. It is OK to put the link up. Just remember others might just want the same as you.
  12. Another one made by that famous clock maker Thomas Tompion.
  13. You can undertake screwcutting with the Unimat 3 with the right attachment.
  14. Get yourself a Unimat 3. It’s the only one I have and it does everything. Loads of accessories still available. The one I have has the milling attachment. Some good second hand ones on Ebay.
  15. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  16. If you are going to start on clocks, get yourself a timepiece only. If you want to start with a travel clock, get a Europa alarm. They are easy to work on and if it needs re-bushing you can buy the bushes readymade. You will need a staking tool with punches, just knock the old out and tap the new in.
  17. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  18. Which type do you have the weight driven or the old spring wind up?
  19. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  20. When it comes to the pallets, the only part that should be oiled are the pallet stone faces. Never oil the pivots of the pallets as it will cause drag and the movement will fail to keep time. You must use the correct oil for the escapement, if you are not sure which; look for one that specifically says for watch escapements. Some watchmakers prefer to oil the teeth of the escape wheel and let the combined action of pallets and escape wheel to distribute the oil. Pallet stones should be smooth on their face, any marks, chips and they should be re-placed. The stone is harder than the escape wheel so it is most likely it also is worn.
  21. Pallets are worn and need to be replaced.
  22. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
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