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Everything posted by nickelsilver

  1. There's a lot of good info in this thread, just to chime in and stress that the hole really needs to be re-centered before proceeding. Often the wear is within the oil sink, and that is normally well centered, and you can use that as a visual guide. In your case the wear has gone outside the oil sink; ideally here I use a compass with a wide point and scriber tip and make a now concentric circle around the hole, then file up to that with a round file. Then ream to size for a bushing.
  2. There are two principal ways the plate locks, either with a wedge and screw which pushed the wedge into the post in the plate like Watchweasol's (seems maybe that one just uses the screw but I suspect the screw is a replacement and the wedge has gone missing), or with an eccentric cam. The one Nsteyn needs an eccentric cam. It can be made if you have a lathe, you'll want a 4 jaw chuck to set the piece off center to make the eccentric part (can also shim it in a collet or 3 jaw chuck). The pic is from a little Star I have, other Stars I have use a screw and wedge, so it's not even manufacturer specific.
  3. As said above, these can be a really tight fit, in some cases they are friction fitted right where they seat, on others they are tight all the way along the shaft. I use levers like in the photo (these are Bergeon, about 10" long) to unseat it, then if it's still tight I use the little puller to coax it off the rest of the way. Getting it off is one thing, reseating it is another. You will need a hollow punch with a deep enough hole to pass the length of the arbor. In my case I made it, probably you can get by with a piece of brass tubing. The other issue is hand alignment after; on most clocks the hub on the minute hand can be rotated to align it with the strike, but on some there is just a square in the hand itself with no adjustment. Here you need to pay attention to the position of the cam in relation to the square so you aren't striking at 12 minutes past or something. All that said, if it's yours and you are confident it is clean and not worn, just leave it. For a customer I will remove it no matter what. In my experience wear is more likely at the pivot that carries gathering pallet, the other cam OH mentioned first. These are usually much easier to remove.
  4. This is how I do them, except I don't try to save the cap, I just get it out and make a new one. But that fellow's technique is really good!
  5. A normal canon pinion would move things too, but good catch. That micro canon pinion should be disassembled and greased like any canon pinion though. All things said, with pallet fork out, setting time or winding will have a similar effect if the fork is out.
  6. Start with top left, then third row from left 4 punches down, then a flat punch.
  7. Even though they hammer into your head in school to never ever use the centering punch for anything but centering, I find it's the best for staking these tubes. I start with that, then the smallest round nose punch, then a flat punch.
  8. CaptCalvin's advice is pretty spot on, only thing I'd add is a little goes a long way regarding how hard you tap, and better to err on the side of too little.
  9. A big issue with staking or restaking tubes like this is distortion of the tube itself. I've made up stumps with a hole diameter ever so slightly bigger than the tube, depth ever so slightly less than the length, so I can rerivett the darn thing without bending or otherwise deforming it. They can be a real bear.
  10. Ha, I honestly don't know, but I think it is practically nothing. The date wheel takes a while to pull the date disc around. On some watches with instantaneous systems you might see 5-10 degrees drop while it's arming the system.
  11. Ok! To me it looks like there is quite little room between the wheels in the stack, and the wheels are quite thin; my first thought is that the discs may have a hair too much play on their tenons, and be tilting during a jump sometime, either causing a misjump or making one jump that shouldn't. Could we see what the underside of the discs look like? Another possibility is jumper tension; I think the discs are in engagement with the wheel stack in general, except when on a 'missing tooth' time, if the jumper tension is too light, or again if there is some play and the discs can come out of engagement with the jumper, then you'll go out of synch. Of course if the jumper tension is too high, you'll lose amplitude or stop the watch...
  12. That's probably not the best watch to do your first staff on. There are probably at least two different pivot size options, then perhaps differences in the roller table fitting or balance hole diameter. Add to that it likely has been restaffed at least once to several times, and the balance jewels may be cracked or have been changed to different/wong size in the past. All that said, there are references out there that should indicate the theoretical correct staff, a couple of members here have the info and will certainly chime in. Give it a try, but if you hit a snag don't get discouraged- it could be several things outside of your control.
  13. That's for clocks, and looks complete.
  14. Staked means rivetted, and there's a big difference between a rivetted union and press fitted.
  15. Can you show more of the mechanism? I have a sneaking suspicion that those teeth are missing for a reason. Both discs only jump at the same time on some jumps, on others the left hand one doesn't. How that works remains to be seen.
  16. Haha don't worry I had a million "dumb" questions when I was starting out! Also somtimes you overthink things and come out with questions that can only be thought of as dumb dumb, unless the teacher understands. Having been on both sides I understand!
  17. Hahahahaha They are very much indeed tapered. Maybe not much from a casual perspective, but massively from a machinist perspective. A broach might change diameter of 0.2mm over its length of 50-100mm. The twists- go gently, like 1 or 2, then check. This is a physical burnishing, if you're making heat on more than a molecular level you're over motivated.
  18. They come in sets, and are tapered. The video shows distinctly not the way to use them hahaha. You slide them in the hole, and give a little twist. Sometimes you give a few twists. They don't really remove any metal (yeah microscopically). They burnish the hole. Going from both sides evens out the taper. You want one that fits, but it could fit anywhere along the functional part of the broach.
  19. You don't want to use any loose abrasive on a barrel bearing, there's a very real chance it will imbed and then wear away at the barrel arbor. The most common method to improve the finish would be a simple smoothing broach and oil, a little bit from both sides.
  20. Hmm, despite the German's reputation for high quality mechanical objects, their 20th century clocks don't follow that trend. If it's cheap why not? That would go for maybe 40 bucks in a second hand shop around here (well, it would be listed for that, that shop I frequent often has German clocks that have been there a looong time).
  21. To VWatchie, the burr is the raised knicks from screwdrivers; in machining it's raised metal left at the edge of a cut. As for different abrasive papers, there are soooo many, and pads and sponges and pastes and so on. If you're going for really shiny, there's a bunch of options. If you're going for original mirror polish there are fewer, and as said above, the techniques get more specific. When you're getting your steel parts checked for micro scratches at 40x under microscope you get really uptight about this stuff.
  22. Canon pinion friction may be a bit tight, in some cases it will actually stop the watch. Some watchmakers back in the day considered it "right" when it'd stop the watch, it gave a sort of hack system. Imagine if you grab the center wheel pivot going up through the dial, and twist anticlockwise. You're going against the power from the barrel. This is what the canon pinion is doing.
  23. That book does have some good information, and I wouldn't say it's not worth the money. But it's really conceived as a textbook for classroom use, to be a guideline. I find how it's written and presented to be more along the lines of textbooks I saw when I was like 12 years old, apart from some of the trickier math calculations; seriously. I don't own it, but there has almost always been a copy in the workshop that belongs to someone or the other. I would suggest trying to get a hold of a copy as a loaner, from someone, maybe you'll need to offer a deposit (loaning books is always a tricky affair). Have a look through, and see if it's worth it to you. As an overview, and a way to see down which paths you want to find out more information on. Just grabbed a shot of one of the pages on hairspring work, it's murky enough I think you can see what's going on without infringing any copyright.
  24. You probably have a really good technique. In my experience, filling the sink doesn't come close to making the right sized circle under the cap jewel. If it works it works!
  25. It works, but when you check the oil quantity and it's lacking it's more of a pain than using a pin. Or you leave it lacking. When I was working in a trade shop while in school I did the way you describe but I was getting 10 USD for a manual wind, 11 for automatic, in 1998, not 1950 hahaha. Had to make some concessions. The boss cleaned assembled, barrel out (opened but spring in), then pulled the balance and ran through a second machine with "lube" in the final rinse. I skipped the second machine, disassembled all the movement (he'd leave cap jewels assembled too), did train freedom check etc. I didn't have one comeback. I'm sure the time he saved with the cut rate measures cost him more in his comebacks. Not trying not harangue, it's an old school technique you describe, but pushing through with a pin is a tiny extra step to ensure proper oiling to get it on the cap correctly before assembling.
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