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nickelsilver

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Everything posted by nickelsilver

  1. nickelsilver

    Star Lathe 61626, worth it?

    Yes looks like a vice jaw. I'll point out that this type of lathe is very easily adjustable for play in the bearings. So if after running it with a fine oil you find its a little sloppy don't worry.
  2. nickelsilver

    Star Lathe 61626, worth it?

    These lathes use double tapered hardened steel sleeve bearings that interact directly with corresponding tapers on the spindle. They're theoretically replaceable but practically next to impossible. They can be re-lapped to a certain degree if necessary. They are incredibly tough and long-lived, and require very excessive abuse over a long time to become noticeably worn. That lathe looks great, great price, and older is better overall when it comes to this type of machine.
  3. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    From what I can see the drop lock is to much, you'll want to push the stones in the fork a little bit. Use the gap at the end of the slot as a visual guide, reduce it by perhaps a third, then check drop lock again and ensure that you still have safe lock with the horn touching the guard pin (both sides).
  4. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    I'll just point out that eccentric bankings are a good thing, they make life much easier. Geneva Seal watches with solid bankings as part of the mainplate, numerous modern pieces with the bankings as a solid part of the pallet bridge- these make adjustments very difficult. Pressed in banking pins have to be bent in a way the functional part remains perpendicular to the plate. A pain. Anytime I've had input on a development project I recommend eccentrics.
  5. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    Lawren5 can you manage a video focused on the interaction of the pallet stones and escape wheel while slowly rotating the balance?
  6. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    Ideally you do these checks looking straight down at the movement under a microscope. You won't see the horns or guard pin interacting with the roller, use an oiler to move fork and feel when it makes contact and observe the pallet stones.
  7. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    That's a tremendous amount of total lock on both stones. Easily the cause of 100 degrees of missing amplitude. To find out whether to move the stones or bankings or both depends on the drop lock. A shortcut to get you in the ballpark is to check fork horn safety; with the roller jewel just out of the fork slot bring the horn in contact with it. Check the lock. In a good escapement the lock should be very very small here, almost nothing. If it is excessive, in theory you can move the stone in until it is just a tiny amount. If the horn safety is already very small, it's a clear sign that the bankings have been moved.
  8. nickelsilver

    ETA2824 setting issue

    Either of those oils would be fine, for the pinion to wheel junction and for the post it sits on. ETA calls for a heavier grease between pinion and wheel but my experience is HP1300 works great.
  9. nickelsilver

    ETA2824 setting issue

    Did you lubricate the junction between the pinion and the wheel?
  10. nickelsilver

    ETA2824 setting issue

    You have the balance out yes? When you are turning backwards it's causing the escape wheel to run backwards, this is what's letting the large wheel move. It should remain stationary while the pinion slips.
  11. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    Sideshake and endshake are not the same, endshake is axial play, and sideshake is radial play. Excessive sideshake wouldn't allow the pivot to come out of the jewel, and in my view the sideshake apparent in the video is acceptable.
  12. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    Well, a few posts back I was referring to the fact that a lot of American pieces have the escapement in tatters because the thing that gets adjusted (mis-adjusted) straight away is the banking pins. It would be worth seeking out Fried's book on the lever escapement, and I think his main book the Watch Repairer's Manual also gets into adjusting. In a nutshell: with power on the watch, balance in, stop the balance and rotate it by hand slowly just until and escape tooth falls on a pallet stone. Observe the amount of lock right at this moment, this is drop lock. Go the other way, the locks should be equal or near it and definitely not more than about 1/5-1/4 the width of the stone. Do it again, and at the moment of lock, move the fork toward the balance and check that the escapement doesn't unlock, then continue rotating the balance and continue checking. You're checking that the fork horns are supplying safety and as you continue to rotate that the guard pin is providing safety. When all that checks out you can look at total lock. If you have an abundance of lock still when the horns are against the roller jewel and guard pin against the roller table, you can pull the pallet stones in a little bit. Go through the checks again. Total lock is drop lock (what you saw above) plus the run to the banking, which is what the fork does after drop lock. There must be some run to the banking. Drop lock must be safe. Now you can get to your banking pins. If the total lock is more than about 1/3 the width of the stone, you can close the banking a bit. Check that you still have run to the banking, and that there is freedom between the fork horns and roller jewel and the guard pin and roller table at all times. Keep in mind that moving a stone affects the other. If you move the entrance stone into the fork, you will reduce drop lock on that stone, and on the exit stone. Total lock will be reduced on the entrance and be unchanged on the exit. Pulling the stone out will increase drop lock on both stones, total lock on the entrance, and total still remains the same on exit. And vice-versa if moving the exit stone.
  13. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    Traditionally American companies would use flat ends on their balance pivots. This tends to equalize the horoizontal and vertical amplitudes. It was a cause of some serious rebanking when watches were restaffed with Swiss made replacements, as they had the more typical rounded ends. As for checking the escapement, it's fairly involved, have you read up on it at all or completely new?
  14. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    That's sideshake and it's totally fine. Could be a little less, but is A-OK. Definitely not the reason you're seeing low amplitude. Did you do the other checks? How's the escapement?
  15. nickelsilver

    Question about balance problems

    Sounds very much like a damaged pivot.
  16. nickelsilver

    Question about balance problems

    In general you just use your fingers to true the balance. There are special tools you see illustrated in books like Fried or Levin show, basically rods with slots in the end that allow twisting split balance arms. I have a few and in 20 years have yet to use one. The balance pivots are safely inside the tips of the truing caliper and the staff is supported on the conical area, and you can use a surprising amount of force on the balance to get it true if needed. The calipers should have a little finger or "thingy" of some sort that you can bring up near the balance rim to use as a visual guide. Many are missing this. On many watches moving the balance jewels to adjust endshake is simply not possible. If the staff is too long the pivots can be shortened slightly, a jacot tool is good for this, you would use the lantern end of a runner so the pivot is supported by the cone and then touch up the end with a fine degussit or arkansas stone, then refinish it and round it with a small burnisher. Only a very small amount can be taken off, as the cylindrical portion of the pivot can quickly become too short, and the conical portion can bind in the hole jewel. If the staff is too short, you can bend the cock slightly. You can also do this if the staff is too long. The key word is slightly, and it's more tedious than it sounds as the balance should be removed and the cock screwed to the plate to do it. What is seen very very often are what one of my teachers called "chicken tracks", which is little pips of raised metal on the plate where the cock seats or on the bottom of the cock itself. A graver or even screwdriver corner is typically used to do this. Depending on where they are done shake can be either increased or decreased, by causing the cock to tilt. "Chicken tracks" is the name because they kind of look like chicken tracks, and because the watchmakers who use this technique are chickens, not doing the job properly.
  17. nickelsilver

    ETA2824 setting issue

    The central portion is what should turn, if the whole wheel is turning then you have an issue. There should be a heavy oil at the intersection of the two parts.
  18. nickelsilver

    Lathes

    I'm not a Unimat guru but from what I've read the early models had a 12 x1mm spindle nose and the later ones 14x1 like OH has. Haven't heard of one with an inch nose; perhaps some were made special for the U.S. market as the popular Atlas/Craftsman hobby lathe had a 1/2-20 inch nose?
  19. nickelsilver

    Lathes

    For everything you could want to know and more on Unimats (and almost any other lathe for that matter) check here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/emco/
  20. nickelsilver

    Jewelling question

    Yes, those are "fake chatons". The bridge itself is made to look like it's 3 separate cocks. What's interesting is some makers went through such efforts to make the product look more high-end, while it was fairly certain the only person to ever see the movement would be a watchmaker.
  21. nickelsilver

    Lathes

    I agree with OH, for general clock work it's hard to beat a Unimat. There's also Sherline and Taig, both quite good for clock work with used examples often on Ebay. What makes any lathe useful is the accessories, the 3 makers above have quite a range available, and your best bet is getting something secondhand with a decent set of accessories with the machine (chucks, collets, toolholders, etc.). Watch out for the newer Unimat, it the model "1", and is made with many plastic parts and nowhere near as good as the old models. In general I would stay away from the ubiquitous Chinese 7x-something lathes.
  22. nickelsilver

    Rolex case back opener

    Even if the die is the right diameter there's no telling if the actual "knurl" matches up. The regular Jaxa or LG case wrenches as well as the bench mounted Bergeon types will have pins with two sort teeth each, which will grip almost any knurled back. Not as well as a dedicated die, but for oddball brands where no die is available it's really the only way. Or you can try the rubber ball trick.
  23. nickelsilver

    What Could Be Causing Low Amplitude

    How did you check the train freedom? Did you peg the holes, in particular the pallet fork hole jewels? Are the pallet fork slot and the roller jewel impeccably clean? One think that's frequently seen on American pieces is the escapement is completely maladjusted. With the eccentric banking pins, many would be repairers start moving them immediately if the watch isn't running as it should be. From there the pallet stones may get moved to compensate for the errors introduced by the bankings being wrong. And finally the watch runs very poorly. Do you know how to check the escapement? To answer your questions- weak hairsprings are a myth, and even if a hairspring weakened over time it would contribute to too much amplitude (and a slow rate) if anything. Worn pivots can very much be a problem. As can worn holes in the plate or bridges, though I think Hamilton only made fully jeweled movements, but cracked or damaged jewels can be an issue.
  24. nickelsilver

    Omega 1045 / Lemania 5100 Part

    Yes and no, it has a sort of raised portion at the business end, that sort of does the business . It's also surprisingly light in force for its size.
  25. nickelsilver

    Jewelling question

    Can you post a pic of the other side? Sometimes on normal grade pieces they were retouched around the jewel hole after plating to show the brass and give the impression that the jewels were set in chatons. Hard to tell if a previous attempt was made to close the hole. You can try a domed (convex) punch to close it a little. Try a punch where the round face is about 50% bigger than the hole. I like to do a little from both sides.
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