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Everything posted by nickelsilver

  1. nickelsilver

    Bulova 6CF Movement

    It's about 99.99% not a mainspring issue. It should limp along with a 5x weaker spring- poorly but running. Is the train free with the balance and fork out? Like two clicks of wind, train should run and escape wheel should turn backwards at least a little at the end. With just a few clicks of wind the fork should snap back and forth cleanly. With fork out and balance in, balance should oscillate freely and for quite some seconds with a swift twist of the movement. If these things aren't happening then start checking methodically. Going back to the barrel- it could be an issue: when you assemble it you should hold the assembled barrel between stout tweezers on the ends of the arbor and check for endshake. Make sure the cap is fully seated. Make sure the holes in the plate aren't too worn (often an issue with seiko). But even if all that was wonky it should 'run', at least poorly, with a couple of turns of wind.
  2. nickelsilver

    Watch my watches

    Ha I made a bunch of the prototype components for that watch!
  3. nickelsilver

    fhf 909 running slow

    Sounds like you don't have friction at the canon pinion.
  4. The front bezel should come off and the movement goes out the front. You'll need to remove the stem first.
  5. nickelsilver

    Lubricants to use with Rolex 3135

    The epilame is really key, you have to do it. It's a weird quirk of an otherwise bulletproof movement. I think you could use pretty much any synthetic lube and it'd survive as long as you epilame the reversers.
  6. nickelsilver

    homemade cleaning machine ?

    Most machines are 40k hz.
  7. If you have a multimeter you can find the resistance of the coil, then divide the wall voltage by that to get your amp draw. Amps = volt/ohms If they had listed the wattage, you could use amps= watts/volts. By the same formula if we imagine it draws 2 amps, you'd be at almost 500 watts which I'm pretty sure it doesn't use. I think you are safe with your 3 amp switch.
  8. nickelsilver

    Running Oh So Fast

    To calculate the train, you can start from the center wheel for beats per hour or in your case the 4th wheel for beats per minute (if the watch has a 4th wheel that turns once per minute, usually but not always the case- of course it is for a chrono), as you like. From center wheel you multiply all the wheels, CW x 3rd x 4th x escape, x 2 (for the two beats for a tooth to "escape"), and divide that by the driven pinions multiplied together, so 3rd x 4th x escape. That gives the beats per hour. In your case it's from the 4th, so 84 x 20 x 2= 3360 divided by 7=480 that's the beats per minute, or 8 per second, or 28,800 per hour.
  9. nickelsilver

    Clock trouble

    The platform is basically the tail end of a watch, if it's dry/dirty/maladjusted etc. nothing you do to the rest will make much difference.
  10. nickelsilver

    Problem Removing Movement

    Looks totally two piece to me. Pull hard.
  11. nickelsilver

    Question about Dumont #8

    I got some when I was in school 20 years ago. They are used with the part in the lathe, heating the tweezers in an alcohol lamp until they are almost too warm to hold. They work ok. Like OH said, if the pivot's gonna snap it'll snap. I moved to using stout nickel tweezers for this a long time ago as they won't leave marks on the pivot. They're also great general tweezers, grippy and easy to dress and gentle. I'd say get 3 pairs of Dumont 12 instead of the 8.
  12. nickelsilver

    Removing a Balance Staff with a Staking Tool

    That's the thing with the various "removing tools", they tend to work OK until they don't. I know not everyone has or wants a lathe, but it really is the best tool for removing staffs, my preference is to turn off the hub for zero risk of enlarging the hole. I have used the K&D tool in the past, fairly often when I was working in a trade shop while in school. No lathe in that shop. I imagine it works as well as a Platax, which is to say pretty well. I still have the tool but it hasn't been used in 20 years.
  13. nickelsilver

    Pegging jewel holes

    Yes, but they're local to me.
  14. nickelsilver

    What can cause rate to cycle every 5 minutes?

    Not sure on which point you disagree but interchangeability was the corner stone of U.S. watchmaking. That said many of the movements have been massacred so maybe a jewel was replaced with the wrong one and the pivot adapted or a fork that was close mashed in somehow, etc. I've been across the pond a couple of decades but still see an American pw here and there. Last was a "maker" who recased old Elgins in wristwatch. Customer brought two of them for service (they were supposedly restored by the "maker"). Broken hs collet glued, escapement berzerked, dial glued on, balance pivots grooved, holes smashed closed, not untypical of stuff I saw regularly 20 years ago. But aside from maybe Howard or some of more boutique manufacturers no way they were hand fitting parts at Waltham Elgin Hamilton with the production numbers they were hitting. The finishing techniques for pivots for example may have been labor intensive but they were made to standards. The U.S. smacked the swiss so hard they had spies bringing back intel on manufacturing methods. Which they improved upon, and eventually smacked back with.
  15. nickelsilver

    Replacing broken pivot.

    You'll definitely want the end getting drilled supported. Maybe your Lorch has a drilling plate, if not Clockboy's thread has a YT link showing a simple setup to do it. Agree these clocks use softer steel that drills readily with normal drills.
  16. nickelsilver

    What can cause rate to cycle every 5 minutes?

    American movements especially after the turn of the century were completely non-hand fitted. What can crop up is differences in grades for the same base caliber. But a part for Hamilton x caliber will fit x caliber.
  17. nickelsilver

    What can cause rate to cycle every 5 minutes?

    What's the tooth count of the barrel and center pinion? I'm suspecting a depthing problem due to worn center plate and bridge holes.
  18. nickelsilver

    Some new acquisitions!

    That's some nice stuff! The Steiner is the best jacot tool out there, and it looks in terrific shape.
  19. nickelsilver

    Universal Geneve - Loose Stem?

    Could be the detent screw is loose. Could be the pin on the detent is damaged. Could be wear in the plate/bridge allowing the stem to wriggle out. Could be a damaged stem. All but the wear are repairable by replacing parts or tightening the screw. For worn plate/bridge an oversized stem is usually made.
  20. nickelsilver

    Motor Barrel

    You don't show the cap but it seems it was held on with 3 screws, which was Hamilton's technique as well. The lower arbor is a very close fit in the ratchet wheel, it should pull/wiggle out.
  21. nickelsilver

    threading gone wrong

    Were you trying to thread blue steel? If so leave the broken bit in because that part of your screwplate is done now, and a jeweler's saw blade will barely bite it anyway. Otherwise, you just need a thin enough blade to fit in there. There are really fine blades available.
  22. nickelsilver

    Beginner - mechanism questions

    That's interesting wls, I was sure it was German until I saw the marking on the back.
  23. nickelsilver

    Beginner - mechanism questions

    Is that all there is? Lots of parts missing there...
  24. Yeah no way you have enough contact there. You can try to turn the v deeper but ha need a lathe for that. Worst case use a triangular file and file it. It'll probably seat on the rest of the factory v once there's clearance.
  25. Can you post a pic of the pulley? A round belt should sit about midway in the "v". If it hits bottom you're gonna slip. If it's making good contact, though it sounds weird beeswax helps grip.