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nickelsilver

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Everything posted by nickelsilver

  1. Ha sorry! From a discussion a while back on a machinists forum there was mention of California Fine Wire and Mount Joy Wire. I just checked Mount Joy and they have it down to .004" (.10mm) and finer on request; no idea what their minimum order is though.
  2. You're off by a decimal place there, 0.008" 0.203mm.
  3. I generally have a beard but touch up with the straight razor, it's gotten to where I don't even bother with the strop most times, I just strop on my thigh... how's that for manly!
  4. Grab the arbor in a pin vice (or barrel arbor holder, which is a specialized pin vice for just this task), then twist it in, in the opposite direction of winding.
  5. If there's no feasible way to get the cap off I would strongly recommend against pegwooding the hole. If your wood breaks you're humped. And it do break.
  6. The bearings are very high precision, while specced as P4 as I understand SKF actually provides them at more like P2 class, and FAG (what I have)have their own designation "P4S"which is similar. The faces of the races are ground in a way that when the two sets of faces are the same distance apart there is a predetermined preload on the bearings. This is really important to get right, which is why these types of bearings generally come with it "built in". All you need is to get them equally spaced, very precisely. I don't have a grinder suitable for the spacers, so I hand lapped the faces, checking them on a surface plate with a very sensitive dial test indicator. On my Leinen the measured runout at the collet taper, outside of the spingle nose, and spindle nose face were all for all practical purposes zero. Checked with an Interapid 0.002mm indicator and Compac 0.002mm indicator, there was no needle movement. There is of course some runout, but if those indicators won't show it for watchmaking purposes they are "perfect". That was true with the original bearings and new. I really like ball bearing headstocks but still have a soft spot for plain bearings. In theory they can be made to be even more precise than ball bearings. But if searching for microns in work, with a well adjusted plain bearing setup, one would need to run the machine for some length of time to get everything up to temperature and have the right oil in for the right speed to the oil film works right and and and. It doesn't always really matter, but ball bearings sure are easier. And- you don't get an oil stripe down your face and shirt after making a stem! BTW that paint job came out great!
  7. There are a lot of things to consider when changing from one movement to another. Biggest concerns (after diameter) are height, dial feet positions, and stem height. Googling the movement that's in gets garbledygook and then this thread; do you have any further info?
  8. Tripping can definitely be from the passing spring being in contact too long. It can be from a few other things too. You need to slowly rotate the balance and see the action. The detent should release the escape wheel a hair before the impulse jewel is on center line, then return as quickly as possible well before the escape wheel has finished impulse. It can be a bit of a tap dance between the passing spring impulse jewel and banking.
  9. I'll add- the oxalic acid is a mild rust remover. You might find it advertised for removing rust stains. And this solution won't magically clean a filthy movement. Some time with a small stiff brush and lighter fluid getting the gunk off prior and pegging holes after (and/or before) is still required. And as mild as it is, it can still eat certain lacquers. On a laquered piece I usually just hand clean with soap and brushes and water. Alcohol to absorb to water, dry in hot air, then check and peg all pivot holes. You only have to assemble one clock without pegging and see black gunk flow out when you oil to know pegging is actually a time saver.
  10. A Finnish watchmaker I know gave me the recipe they used in school, I've used it for some time and am very happy with it. It's gentle and fairly nontoxic (don't drink it of course, but it doesn't contain harsh solvents). 1L 99% isopropyl alcohol 3L distilled water 50g oxalic acid 60g oleic acid around 80 grams of 24% ammonia In a stainless pot, heat the alcohol and 1L water, add the oxalic acid (powder) and dissolve, add the rest of the water and oleic acid, then add ammonia slowly. It will go cloudy, then turn clear. The ammonia is reacting with the oleic acid making a soap, when it goes clear all the oleic has reacted. This keeps the solution fairly safe for brass, as the ammonia now being a soap doesn't eat the metal like some other cleaners with higher ammonia concentrations. Rinse in hot water, with a final bath in alcohol before drying with hot air. I have never had a part rust with this, but the final alcohol rinse is important.
  11. Ah- no, I thought the other pic was the first one after some "work". The first one should be salvageable with careful work. But if you've never manipulated hairsprings before it's not one I'd reccomend as your first.
  12. Well, that spring is almost certainly a goner, it would be a challenge for a very experienced person to get it usuable if it's possible. Those little tools, in spite of saying "for all sizes" are much too large for little wristwatches. They would be used to twist the spring slightly, often near the stud but not necessarily, to get it level. Normally one would do this with fine tweezers if there is space, which there isn't always. Imagine coming straight down to the spring near the stud (everything mounted in the watch), and then tilting your tweezer a few degrees toward the balance center, and giving a little squeeze on the spring. It will tilt it toward the balance, 180 degrees from where you've made the bend. Those tools would be tricky to use for overcoil work, certainly not a something that would be helpful. And DeCarle's technique there is a little sketchy too... don't recall reading that but I don't have that book around anymore.
  13. I have a similar one but with a cowboy! Somewhere I have a cowgirl too. It is indeed the pallet fork that gives the motion. My first watch was a Frogger watch, followed by a first gen G Shock. Then a quartz Seiko diver, and finally got an Omega automatic just before I went to watchmaking school. I didn't want to show up with a quartz.
  14. The Rollimat is a wonderful tool and more than pays for itself in a few months in a professional situation. It uses the same carbide burnishing wheel as industrial machines that finishes clock (and watch) pivots in the factory. Totally an "auto jacot" tool. That guy has a good technique there, and agree with OH it can be done with simpler tools. I know a number of clock and watchmakers though who have the "tool bug" and enjoy finding and using machines most regular shops would find overkill. In some cases they do save time but not necessarily do a better job; part of the fun is just using them.
  15. You can use normal watch cleaning solutions. But you can also wash things wild dish soap and hot water and a soft brush, rinsing in hot water and then two alcohol baths (so soak off the water), drying with warm air or old school sawdust. You'll want to grease the mainspring with 8300, use that for the barrel and fusee pivots too. Clock oil for the center and 3rd wheel, then 9020 for the rest is fine. Don't oil the escape teeth of course. It's good to oil the chain a bit too, pull it through watchpaper repeatedly after until it leaves no residue. Try to observe how much prearming is on the barrel when you let it down so you can set it up the same. I'm sure you already know to never remove the balance with power on the train, and there's maintaining power in the fusee. I've made a number of escape wheels and detents from even experienced watchmakers pulling the balance with power in the train.
  16. Yes it should be a tapered screw, it forces the hammer arms apart or lets them come closer together. They are often really tight. Put some oil around the perimeter of the head and coax it in both directions. A little turning usually makes a big adjustment, careful! You may not need to adjust it though, do you have clearance with the minute cam? Also, the jumper spring that brings the hammer in contact with the cams doesn't generally have a lot of power. It needs to be greased and reliably coming into contact with the cams. The hammer faces will need a light coat of grease where they contact the heart cams.
  17. Crap sorry, I was thinking the minute recorder was not resetting to "12". May still be a simple matter of resetting the hand, but then the minute jump will be off, which means moving the finger on the chrono runner. What I actually suspect is that the hammer is out of adjustment, and is making full contact with the minute counter but not the chrono runner, and you want the reverse of that. Depending on the version you have it may have an adjustable hammer, or may require filing.
  18. I think you can just remove the hand and set it at zero when in reset position. If that doesn't do it there's a laundry list of potential issues, on which books have been written. Try that and if you still have a problem it can be addressed.
  19. Wow that looks great! Bear in mind most Excelsior Park movements were around 42 degrees amplitude.
  20. First thing would be to remove the pinions. They are sometimes quite well rivetted, so this may involve turning away some of the rivet or being willing to sacrifice the wheel (it could easily be distorted beyond use in punching the pinion out). Then you need to compare the hole in the wheel you want to use to the diameter on the pinion that will be pressed and rivetted in. If too big it gets tricky, you'll need to sleeve/bush the hole very securely. I would open the hole further, then chamfer both sides, make the bush with an undersized hole, then fit it in. Swage the bush with a convex punch in the hole from both sides, then a flat punch that is larger than the bush. The idea is to deform metal into the two chamfers on the wheel. Finally flatten and clean up. Now open the hole to receive the pinion. If the hole is too small it's easy, just open it up and press/rivett the pinion in.
  21. I'm counting 12 on both pinions there. Maybe start by sleeving the bore of the new pinion, it looks much bigger than the old one. That will allow it either engage more deeply or shallowly depending which way you're turning it.
  22. I use cyanoacrylate very often, it's super handy. For something like this case I might use a friction chuck, usually plastic (pvc or delrin), that the case fits onto. Typically a short spigot that friction fits an inside diameter and a square shoulder to butt up against. Of course it only holds for light cuts with sharp tooling. There are fairly sophisticated chucks that can be used but friction chucks are the traditional method, in the past they were generally wood.
  23. 316L is the standard stainless for watch cases. Around 3-4 degrees for the angles, you don't want a sharp lip though, there will be a cylindrical land. Fitting is of course a bit of trial and error so a good fixture that allows removing and replacing on the lathe without introducing eccentricity is a must
  24. That's right- except for Rolex where it's mandatory (they won't work right without it).
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