Endeavor

Sorry for my late reaction, I haven't been on WRT for a while, WUS has my current attention. Always great to read about your endeavours, your well & clear written articles, your optimism and perseverance. Hats off with the end result

Before auto-cat and all those other computer drawing programs, all technical drawings were made first with pencil and concluding using Rotring pens, filled with black ink. They came / come in various sizes. For the work I used to do 0.13mm was impractical, too small and too fragile. I would say the chances of over-oiling with a 0.13mm pen are negligible. You could use your automatic oiler for the same purpose. Your imagination is the limit ......as you can see it doesn't have to be a tool out of the watch industry. As for the old fashion German Rotring, which aren't made anymore, there are still some old stock sold on eBay. Make sure you get the old fashion German High quality and sadly they are not super cheap, have never been. Unlikely if they were ever intended as oilers, but it works to my satisfaction and I get to go down the memory lane

There are many ways leading to Rome and whether to lubricate or not can be up for debate I normally do lubricate the seconds pinion and indirectly the dog-leg leaf-spring. For this job I'm using a 0.13mm new, but old-fashion Rotring pen with some light oil in the reservoir. I'm not using Moebius, but Dr.Tillwich 1-3 oil. Just for the purpose of demonstration I took an empty 2409 main plate with the center-wheel inserted. Normally the small tip of the Rotring pen is wet enough, due to the capillary working of the oil, to pick up the seconds pinion; You can run the pen past the pinion and this will lubricate the pinion, if ever so slightly. I than insert the pinion and push it carefully down the shaft of the center-wheel. The gently push on top of the seconds-pinion will lubricate the top of the pinion ..... and therefor indirectly the tip of dog-leg leaf spring. The dog-leg leaf-spring can cause a variety of problems such as irregular amplitude, low amplitude, "dropping" second-hand when tilting the watch or a jittering second-hand. It needs therefore to be adjusted such that it just touches the top of the seconds-hand pinion, easy to be lift up but enough "push" to provide just enough friction to let the seconds-hand to run smoothly. Anyway, it's up to the watch repairer to decide how & what .... Just my two cents

Perhaps one day they will wake up to watches the Swiss can learn from, perhaps they never will ............ Meanwhile we are having a field day I'll leave m1ks question and his introduction to WUS f/10 your honor ...... Great job !!!

Again one of those exquisite walkthroughs with pictures second to none. Very well done Guess what I bought today? A box full of Vostok 2414 movements, in plastic containers and fully sealed ......... these have the gold-colored anti-shock springs so they are from the Soviet times, pre-1992 One just can't get enough of them; brilliant CCCP quality

A Vostok 2409 or a 2414 tutorial would certainly be beneficial ...... however the WUS software has currently some problems (pictures are just disappearing, rendering the tutorial impaired / useless) and IMHO there is no point in placing a tutorial somewhere in a running thread, sinking away under all the other added stuff; never to be found again. That has to be sorted first before I would do some more ...... Alternatively, the tutorial can be placed in its own dedicated thread, with a distinctive name so it can be found again by the search engine or later referred to via a link (URL). I'm impressed by your work and the picture quality ..... an asset to any watch forum

So impressive that I broke my silence

Hi Dave; It's a bit hard to see which exact model you have and where you are located; but a quick search on eBay a seller in Canada has a 2nd hand for a 7750 ....... ? Perhaps a possibility ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tissot-Rotor-Oscillating-Weight-for-ETA-7750-Swiss-Made/202598217838?hash=item2f2bcb786e:g:YsEAAOSwQFhbY1IL:rk:1:pf:0

Perhaps the "older" WRT-members remember that I, as a watch-novice (which I still am) back in begin 2016 serviced my own Rolex Submariner (3135). After putting myself through a rigorous training on two ETA 2540 / 2541, 17mm ladies watches, the Rolex 3135 was next. That caused, rightly, some stir on the forum. Before the service I build Stefans Watch-O-Scope to test the end results and to do some adjustments if required. With the excellent video of Mark, servicing a 3135, I performed the service. There were some heart-stopping moments, especially when at the end, while adjusting the daily-rate with a Microstella tool, my right-hand holding the balance-wheel with tweezers started doing his own thing and I bend the hairspring at the stud. Luckily that I could fix......... After the service the Watch-O-Scope signal looked horrible. The beat-error was in different position all over the place. We had endless discussions on the forum about what to do and what was next. Despite the poor W.O.S results, the Rolex ran constantly +2 or +3 seconds a day. Other attempts on the Watch-O-Scope proofed futile and for a long time I've been thinking about admitting defeat and to get the Rolex fixed by an official Rolex service point. That was until today. Even through I was quite happy with the W.O.S. results on all my other watches, I decided (after repairing a heirloom pocket-watch and the owner donated me some extra) to buy the Chinese Weishi 1000 timegrapher. Knowing how the Rolex raw-data looked like on the W.O.S. screen, I didn't expect the Weishi 1000, which came today, to make much sense out of it either. The proof is in the pudding they say, so one of the first watches to test was my Rolex. To my surprise the Weishi 1000 picked the 28800 bpm signal correctly and without any problems up. Even better, and to my big relieve !, the Rolex runs actually quite good. I hadn't worn the Rolex for a least two weeks, so it was cold and had to be hand wound. Lift angle set at 52 degrees. Dial Up: -7 s/d, 294 degrees, 0.1 ms Dial down: -7 s/d, 292 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown down: -3 s/d, 272 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown up: -2 s/d, 278 degrees, 0.2 ms. I know that when worn, the Rolex runs +2 to +3 s/d constantly. This get to show, as @JohnR725 keeps saying with timegrapher signals; Rubbish in = Rubbish out. To my big relieve it also shows that I didn't ruin my Rolex and that it actually runs very fine....... no need for a new balance staff or an official Rolex service, saving me at least a $1000 and giving me a peace of mind. I've been very happy with the W.O.S and it still has its place. The Weishi 1000 however ....... It thoroughly impresses me ! I like to thank everybody for their input a few years back and just in case there were still some members out there wondering & worrying about my novice Rolex "endeavor", we can now put this aside and all sleep well Cheers: Roland.

Only the first few post, to shift out the one-day-flies or the hit-and-runners. The end result is very much noticeable. A few pictures, front, back and movement are good starters. You can add more later if asked for. Anyway, it's all up to you Suc6 and thanks .....

I happen to be a mechanical engineer with an electronics/electrical background. Of course it can be done, but I thought you wanted something more simple ?

How do you control the current? How much current do you need to heat up a strip of 15mm very well conducting material to over 200 degrees C? Where do yo get all that current from; a welding machine? How do you control the heat? How do you measure the heat? All sounds not so eezy ........

Here some pictures of a bit more convincing Amphibian if found on eBay. For as I know, it has the correct Amphibian hands, on the old cracked dial it says 21 jewels = automatic (they didn't count the 10 jewels in the reversing wheels of the automatic-works, which were in the beginning steel rollers), the movement is a SU with the correct color anti-shock springs and the back-cover has all the right inscriptions. I'm not sure about the bezel, looks new. Your watch has a bezel of the correct time period. The lume at the hour-markers is questionable as well. Your dial seems to be in a much better condition and the color of the lume on your dial represents more correct the age of it. Not clear to see, but it looks like your dial also says 21-jewels (?). Experts on WUS may spot something more "off" (like the font of the date numbers?), but to me it's more in the direction, however still not 100% convincing and questionable. If I had any interest in this watch, I would for sure present it on the WUS forum and see what they have to say.

It seems an automatic movement in a 020 hosing with the correct (old numbered) case case-back for a 2409 or 2414 movement. What's missing on this case-back is the word "automatic" (which should be present on your new diver); To be honest I never measured the differences between the two, but by eye there seems to be some differences and that may be your problem. Of course your rubber-gasket can be out of shape and new come cheap, but they don't compress a lot and therefor I don't think a new casket will solve the problem of having the incorrect case back in the first place. Try the case-back of your new diver to confirm proper working. eBay is cramped full with cheap Vostok parts. Of course with caution and with many escape clauses, but it seems a Franken. Having said that, you have many good parts; the dial, the hands are special, a good 020 case with an original numbered case-back and an automatic movement which may or may not belong to the dial. In the transition period a lot of Vostok watches were made out of parts available, sometimes a mix of old & new. From that period dials often don't carry a "made in" print on the bottom. Your dial is CCCP, so no confusion there. In time, and when gained more knowledge, you can try to make it all original or ...... with the correct case-back just enjoy the watch. After-all, there is already a story attached to the watch which is, or may become, more valuable than a "correct" watch. You know where to be if you like to learn more ....... Suc6 .....

Of course the remark is off topic, but perhaps this may be of some help as with the right technique I don't perceive them as a PITA, more on the contrary