Endeavor

Thank you very much indeed Is it correct that this parts-list does not contain the description (the names) of the parts ?

Thank you Watchweasol for posting these two parts list ! Do you happen to have the parts-list for Vostok 2416b as well ? Kind regards ...

Didn't get it as cheap as $21, but £24 including shipping from the UK. Having read Mr.Fried ”Bench Practices for Watch Repairers”, I'm sure this one is worth it too. Thanks

Thanks for the info ....... may buy this book too !

I used to live in Scotland and used to do the whiskey trial (multiple, multiple times ). I see you have the malt Glenfiddich. Glenfiddich is from the Grant's family, so there is the "Grant's"-whiskey, a blend. Same shape bottle, with 95% Glenfiddich malt but 1/2 price. Just FYI

@nickelsilver; my tail is slowly sinking between my legs ..... I've just given Loctite my last shot, but no such high hopes While waiting for it to cure, I had a look at the Tix solder you recommended. On eBay I can only see it for sale (20x sticks) in the US. Since it is above $12 (max.Danish tax-free import), chances are high that the Danish post & customs will hit me with "handling fees" ($20) and import duties, probably only a few dollars, but that in total will easily double the price. Are you aware of a selling address here in Europe ? Tix seemed to have a melting point of 275 deg.F, so I hope it can be melted with a hot-air soldering gun used in electronics for SMD's ...... Hope to hear if you know an address ......

I think you did a fantastic job on a very nice (rare?) watch The before and after pics are just with stunning differences; well done I work nearly on a daily basis with the Russian equivalent of the Valjoux 7734, the Poljot 3133. I too think they are very good movements and often get to run them very accurate too ...... The Poljot 3133 are still "cheap", but their prices are rising steeply ..... with some luck one can still stumble over rare pieces, like this fully restored commemorative 3133 chronograph, commemorating the space-station the MIR 1986-2001. So far only three are known to exist; bought in poor condition for just €95 !

Thank you all for thinking along with me I'll first try Loctite as that feels & seems to me a less intrusive and a very valid option. If that were to fail, an attempt to solder the joint can still be done. The other way around seems less attractive to me. Soldering is still a good option provided, just like with the Loctite, we were to get a proper surface bondage. Loctite doesn't seem to have an issue with different material or surfaces. Unknown to me are the long term behavior of Loctite, from soldered joints we are all well aware of the fatigue problems. I'll report back with my findings

As you have read, I've tried soldering, admitting not using "Tix", without suc6. The Loctite 648 has been ordered. In order to increase the contact surface area, I may have to reconsider to take the bushing out, apply the Loctite and insert the bushing again. It all depends how time/setting-time & fianl strength test-trials with the Loctite will perform. I'll de-grease the joint first with brake-cleaner; thanks ;-)

I've been searching the internet and came across Loctite 648. One of Its application is to hold gears & sprockets to gearbox shafts. A 50ml bottle, from China, cost £3.57. The Loctite 243 bottle which I own, also ordered from China, was well within the BBD. The 648 is a high strength, has a bit higher viscosity but with ample curing time, up to 10 minutes before it starts to set. This should give me the opportunity to apply or remove where and when required before the setting occurs. If it is capable of holding gears/sprocket to gearbox shafts, surely it will hold a needle to a bushing ..... https://tdsna.henkel.com/americas/na/adhesives/hnauttds.nsf/web/1716575D28E43176882571870000D860/$File/648-EN.pdf The shipping time China-Denmark will be about 1.5 months (perhaps longer in the coming months?) and as soon as I've glued the bushing to the needle I'll report my finding back to you I think some very good ideas were brought forward, ideas which may very well do the job. So thank you very much for you help

That's perhaps another one. Reading the Loctite tech-sheet the Loctite will cure regardless. What is your experience working with Loctite 603? Do you think I would be able to apply a nice thin layer around the seem of the 0.45mm bushing with say; an old oiler? Another thing with the Loctite is that it seems to provide a good bondage even when 100% clean surfaces can not be guaranteed ........ Perhaps one of those; you get were you pay for ..... ?

Both ideas; UV cure epoxies and Loctite seem quite good. Looking at the tech-sheets it seems to me that Loctite has a lower viscosity (150 cP vs 450 cP for the lowest epoxy in AnyHulls link) and has a more than long enough (for me) working time (https://tdsna.henkel.com/americas/na/adhesives/hnauttds.nsf/web/4A89537CE4638581882571870000D851/$File/603-EN.pdf). Then again, these UV glues seem to come in small quantities and at low cost. Loctite comes in 50ml bottles, more expensive, limited shelf-live but recommended by BHI ....what is wisdom ? Decisions, decisions and decisions ...... I will further investigate both ideas and see which one will do the trick and is the most cost-effective. Thanks for all the help so far

In a way I like the idea of a none-heating, not touching to apply, binding method. Superglue sounds good but I'm a bit afraid of not having enough time to apply it nicely and thinly. If one could dilute it so it flows better and buys you time, that would be something.... @rodabodWhich type(s) of Loctite are you recommending? I do have some "soft"-Loctite (243), the one which doesn't need heating to undo, but that wouldn't do I guess. Would the one(s) you are recommending flow nicely thin around the joint, creep in the "cracks" and form like solid a "glass" layer? Obviously I don't want to unseat the bushing to get it in between the joint. Like what @AndyHull just mentioned, a type of glue which buys time and were one has (more) control over the thickness and it's curing time. Either one has to cure "glass-hard" and not stay "soft" or semi-hard. "Nail polish" doesn't sound convincing enough to me, however I never tried how hard/solid that becomes. I don't mind ordering & waiting from something that does the trick ..... this "project" has been hanging over my head for a long time. Now it seems that I have a chance of suc6 and therefor I don't mind waiting another few weeks to get or search for the right stuff / binding method ..... Anyway, thanks already for the good tips. I feel a solutions sits in the pipe-line ....

The paint was "blemished" during a previous "soft"-solder attempt. First I applied some S39 followed by heating up a small amount of fine grains of "soft"-solder to about 350 degrees C melting the solder. The solder sticked to the pipe-bushing but not to the metal. Today I sanded the blemished paint off; the paint is of my least concerns, there is plenty of the "correct"-red available I'm afraid by using "hard"-solder, using an open flame, that it may vaporize the whole lot ...... It's very hard to judge the temperature of an open-flame hand held burner. I scarified already a new hand and obviously the original can't take endlessly "abuse" , so before I do anything the next applied method has to be controllable and with a high degree of suc6 ....

Hmmm ...... That could be an idea ..... can one thin it so it flows a bit better?