Endeavor

You could try the Malaysian winder ....... works flawlessly for me on any size/type watch spring I encountered so far ?

If you are a "I have to have a tool for everything", go for it ? Never had one, never needed one, will never need one, neither a spring-winder. 10x trained fingers do make wonders happen ?

Make sure that the arbor-hook is facing exactly the "opening / gap" in between the end of the spring and first inner-coil of the spring (picture taken of internet just to show, but of course the spring has to be seated in the barrel) While holding / pressing the arbor with brass-tweezers, I usually hold/support the barrel between my thumb, index- & middle finger; gives you far more "wiggling"-flexibility and you don't have to worry about that the arbor "stands-up". With a bit of practice and the arbor pops-in with not too much effort. Suc6 ?

Just for the fun of it I looked up the price I paid for my first Rolex in 1982. It was a ref.16014 Datejust Oyster with another dial (& white-gold bezel) than depicted in the brochure. Even though the watch was in 1992 traded in for my current Submariner, I always kept the 1981 brochure and the 1981 price-list. I bought the watch before the new December 1982 price-list was due ....... and see the "Warning" printed in red. In the price-list the ref.16014 was listed as £624 (GBP), but I managed to buy it for £551 ..... (marked with a pen behind the official list-price)

Above a FED chart (till 2012) showing the increase of the base-money. You can nicely see that it starts in the 1970's when people were offered credit (and in 1971 Nixon took the dollar off the gold-standard, clearing the way for unlimited printing) and the buying / borrowing frenzy started. On top comes all the additional money printing after the financial crisis in 2007-2009. The FED discontinued showing this chart, most likely because all this money printing (out of thin air) has literally gone off-the-charts. Below a chart of fiat-money compared to gold, showing the decline of fiat-mon

Testing my new demagnetizer, I placed an, according to the Lepsi-App "megnetism-detected" iron watch-hand on it. Fired the demagnetizer and the watch hand flew about 10cm next to the demagnetizer. Tested the hand and it was still detected as "magnetized". Placed the hand again, but this time held it down with some copper tweezers. "Zapped" it and this time the hand was by the Lepsi-App delared as being "healthy".

Thank you for your comments ? The schematic was the template for my 240VAC design. It was taken of the internet; https://www.instructables.com/Demagnetizer-From-a-Microwave-Transformer/ . In fact the neon-bulb didn't work; it was either too slow to react or perhaps I blew it up? Therefor I indeed planned on to connect a neon light across the capacitor. Besides, since I get the STDP momentary push button, S2 will only be "active" when depressed. With the push-button in the rest position it will be connected ("S1") such that the capacitor sits parallel with the coil. This way the capac

My transformer is taken out of an old 240VAC / 12V (≈150W) battery dump charger. The secondary coil removed; and the top carefully flush above the primary-coil chopped off; Of course it's not all as slick as an official factory made Ristra / Elma-coil and it has no Ristra-sticker across it, but it works the same ..... ?

It would be interesting to see the schematic ! Looking at the number of diodes (the 1N4007 is rated for 1Amp, 1000V) and the 630V auxiliary capacitors, one would think that there is some voltage multiplication happening (?). The main cap is rated to 450 - 500VAC ..... Since this is read world-wide, it would be very wise, for future reference and for DIY enthusiast, to mention the main-voltage the design is meant for ! We surely deviated from the threads topic, but since it is so interesting, still within magnetism and the remedies, I would suggest we let it run. It won't be the first

Excellent & a stunning walk-through ????️ Fantastic, clearly many painstaking hours of work; this one should be pinned ?

What I also was trying to say; if you decide for self-build or work on these capacitor/coil demagnetizers, you better know what you are doing ?

One has to be a bit careful mentioning voltage-multipliers, particularly where you are on this planet. In the US the mains are 110V, over here in Europe it's 240VAC. That is 240V DC equivalent. The 240VAC wave-peak lays around 240 * √2 = 340 Volt. If you double that we start talking about a lethal 680Volt which will be stored in the (hopefully high enough rated) capacitor.

If you trust your Elma to its job 100% then that's fine, else you are not quite sure if you did improve the situation or made it worse? Currently I'm struggling to find a method which does show me the before & after difference. If you, unlike me, don't mind the nervous jumping digital numbers, the Metal detector / EMF meter App (in the Apple App-store) does give you repeatable reference numbers. Find a spot with the highest reading before and compare that with the reading after you "Zapped" your watch or parts thereof. For me that App would work better if it was displayed in a le

I wouldn't say for the HS only, but that's a discussion for another thread ? The Elma demagnetizer may well be the ultimate tool, but for me it's too expensive. We'll see how my own "Elma" will work once completely finished ..... You have the best, so you are set to go ?, me the more el-cheapo mortal has some more road to cover ..... ?

They do work, kind of. I would prefer the Android App showing the analog meter (Sadly not available in the Apple App-store). Not that one can count on the numbers given, but al least you get an indication of the magnetism severity. The Lepsi App gives you only the yes/no indication, depending on the distance of the object held above the sensor. Close enough and a lot of ferrous object will flash the "magnetism detected" sign. In the Lepsi-App setup, to find the sensor position, it shows a number which climbs when you approach the sensor with a magnet. With the Lepsi App the only indi