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KarlvonKoln

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KarlvonKoln last won the day on January 4

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About KarlvonKoln

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    Male
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    Indianapolis
  • Interests
    Timepieces, motorbikes, tailoring and costuming, middle ages, photography, and I will probably run out of room in this box.

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  1. It looks like a "Swiss Fake" which, as JohnR725 pointed out, can be fairly collectable. EDIT: as I recall, West End Watch Co. was based out of Lancaster Pennsylvania, so reading "Swiss Made" on the dial is also why I'm guessing that. Dollar value kinda depends on who's buying. Not railroad grade. Makes for an interesting rarity though.
  2. Welcome Josh! It sounds like you're off to a good start. There is much to learn here. I think you will enjoy it.
  3. Hello Ed! Welcome to the forum! I think I can safely say you've come to the right place. I was tinkering with clocks and watches before I came here, but I certainly learned more here than I knew before. Explore the forum. It's full of useful stuff. And it has plenty of experienced members who seem always eager to help. And if you have any pics of those watches, we'd be happy to take a peek at them.
  4. @JohnR725 - Are we looking at some form of pin-pallet English lever? I'm guessing you may have seen older pieces than I. For this one, I agree with you: looking at the angle the escapement sits, I can only guess English lever too, and it looks like it has pins. And @stevenwood3 those newer pics are a great help, BTW. It's hard to tell too much by the pics alone, but the movement looks clean and well-kept so far. The staffs and arbors *seem* pretty straight and unbroken from what I can see. If the mainspring is not broken and the motion works are good, this watch might run. In which insta
  5. >>> Ah, I don't think I've yet gone as long as 30 minutes. Good to know. I tend to check a tightly rusted screw or part every 2 to 5 minutes. If nothing happens at about 10 minutes, I clean it all and try to think of something else.<<< "Vinegar won once where coke failed to loosen a rusted screw." >>> I haven't tried Coke yet. But I can believe that.<<< "Results seem to vary drastically in ultrasonic 5 min of vinegar in ultrasonic is enough to damage gears." >>>I do not own an ultrasonic yet. I may get one later, but I think I w
  6. IT'S CLEAN! Oh thank the maker. Okay, I'm saving up for an ultrasonic cleaner. That was brutal. Now I'm working on getting the replacement balance-complete all set up. Once that's in, and in beat, I'm going to check the tracking on the crystals I ordered. Then we'll have a nice, happy Elgin.
  7. I'm going to echo some of what JohnR725 said: if your phone or camera has the capability, posting the clearest and most detailed photos you can would help us help you best. One photo should include the entire backplate (fill the whole frame with it edge to edge). Same way with the dial. A few pics of the internals of the movement from all around, as close and clear as possible, can help too. A detailed pic of any case marks you find will be very helpful. There seems to be a mark on the pendant too, but I think I know what that is. Doing case restoration, something I've recently entered
  8. For getting a new cover, I can say a prayer, cross my fingers, and direct you to auction sites like Ebay. For the movement, I have not repaired a watch that old yet, and it would be hard to diagnose accurately through forum posts. If you have the key, you could give it just a couple gentle winds and describe what it does. Lastly, would you suppose the inscription might actually read "Jas. McCabe" ("Jas." being short for James). Because he was pretty well known apparently. Here's a link to another of his watches: https://antiquewatchstore.com/archive/1113-jas-mccabe-royal-ex
  9. OMG! That is so SWEET! Where did you find it? At a guess, I might say early 1800s. Key wind in back, key set on center wheel arbor. Verge and fusee. Old. Real old. I will have to research the maker. There were so many coming and going back then. I hope it won't need any parts; some of those will be hard to come by. Time to hit the web.
  10. Would you happen to know how long? If not, I have some old junk brass gears that I could experiment with. Steel is not harmed by it, except for the rust. Brass seems okay, if not soaked long. So far, a few minutes has been fine to loosen rust.
  11. White distilled vinegar works wonders too. If a steel screw shows signs of being rusted in place, I'll remove and set aside the balance and pallet lever, and dunk that section in vinegar. Wouldn't try it on quartz movements though. But mechanical ones could benefit.
  12. Nucejo and the others are right to loudly state the above. So I feel it necessary to clarify my earlier statement. I sometimes resort to putting my screwdriver blades in a pin vice only for the following reasons: 1 - the handles they came with are so slender (perhaps more than most) that with many screws, I can get no real torque at all. I don't know if all watchmaker's screwdrivers are this slender but I plan to see if I can get thicker ones. My long, spindly fingers are having trouble with them. I also make sure that I... 2 - always oil the screw in question with the thinnest oil I ha
  13. Do you have a pin vice with a thicker handle than your screwdrivers? You could put your screwdriver blade in that (if removable) and the thicker handle imparts greater leverage. It often works for me. I also put a bit of thinner watch oil on it first, and let it seep in. Then I have a go.
  14. Update: for this watch, it seems the Cosmoline was the only thing cramping its style. I'm regulating it now, and it's coming around rather well. So that went better than expected. As far as the Cosmoline gunk goes, the watch that was really messed up badly was the Elgin grade 241, in a later post. This #92 just had a coating everywhere. The #241 had great heaping clumps in addition to a thicker coating. It is still a nightmare trying to clean it. Getting Cosmoline off of anything with tiny parts will make you see red.
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