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Everything posted by VWatchie

  1. This was my very first attempt at recording (iPhone 6s) and editing (VideoPad) a video, so your praise means a lot to me! Thank you!
  2. Got the oiler (Bergeon 1A) and I'm very pleased! It's easier to use than I thought it would be and it works perfectly. It's all that I hoped it would be! For anyone interested I made the following video:
  3. Well, it's been a while since there was any activity in this thread, but I'd just like to add that I saw Mark Lovick use the Auto Oiler 1A - Bergeon 7718-1A (I believe) and was so very impressed that I just had to order one. Waiting for it now... I find oiling cap jewels a bit of a pain and I often end up redoing it several times before getting that nicely drop-shaped dot of oil covering some 50 to 70 % of the cap jewel surface. There were times when I had to do it 10 times to get it right, taking "forever". My skills have improved but I still find it a pain to get it just right. When Mark does it in the video it looks like "music"
  4. Do you by chance mean pith wood? I think quite a bit a force would have to be used to penetrate peg wood (a toothpick would be softer) with a pivot and in my mind that could break the pivot. Or, do you make a super tiny hole in the peg wood first? Or, perhaps the pivot is so small that it can actually penetrate peg wood without any problem. When thinking about it some more the answer is probably yes!? Oh well, I guess I could try it but if you have the time to elaborate I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
  5. I'm afraid I can't picture this in my head, could you please provide a picture? It sounds very interesting!
  6. I forgot about a pallet in IPA for about 20/30 minutes and the pallets stones came loose, that's why I never rinse the pallets and the roller in IPA for more than a few seconds. Five minutes probably wouldn't do much or any harm, but personally, I just don't want to risk it.
  7. Yes! I use them to remove rust and corrosion from stems, wheel pinions, and wheel pivots (steel). You have to use them with "specific care" as they can produce some pretty ghastly scratches on the wheels themselves (non-steel parts). I hold the wheels as steady as I can with brass tweezers or in a vice, and then I brush the pinion in one direction away from the wheel towards the pivot. Fibreglass scratch brushes are extremely potent, sometimes too potent and that's why I've just ordered a nylon scratch brush which can be used more liberally and on other non-steel parts but still have a very good effect.
  8. Oh, forgot to mention! Big parts (main plate, bridges, and even some medium sized parts such as the ratchet wheel, etc.) I clean using warm/hot water, detergent (Yes!), and variously sized toothbrushes! It's super efficient and after this treatment, the parts look all shiny and new! Haven't found anything that beats it, and I even doubt a watch cleaning machine would do a better job. However, be careful to blow everything perfectly dry as soon as possible to avoid the possibility of any rust building up. And, I never use this method for the train wheels as they rust very easily.
  9. I use naphtha and in my experience, the shellac will basically stay unaffected. However, I wouldn't leave those parts in naphtha for a week, but for a day or two I haven't had any problems, and I always check the integrity of the pallets and impulse pin after cleaning. However, be very careful with alcohol-based solvents such as isopropanol (aka IPA). I ordinarily rinse in IPA, but the pallets and the balance only for a few seconds and then I immediately blow them dry. The idea is to remove any remaining naphtha. An ultrasonic cleaner and warm/hot water will do a decent job (I use 60 ml glass jars with naphtha that I place the parts in and then the jars go in the ultrasonic cleaner). However, the ultrasonic cleaner will not be able to remove rust, corrosion, and some other stubborn dirt, so after cleaning I always inspect the parts and use fibreglass scratch brushes (my no.1 favourite cleaning tool) as needed and rinse in IPA again. Good luck!
  10. Oh yes, I just couldn't live without my 20X/40X stereomicroscope! I use it when oiling jewels holes, pallets, etc. (to me it offers a much higher level of precision), and when I need to understand what I'm actually looking at (dirt, debris, discolouration, rust, and so on). The only inconvenience is that the design om my scope is such that I need to move the part under it, rather than bringing the scope to the part, and of course, I can't move my head around the part. If interested I wrote more about it in this thread. Anyway, for disassembly/assembly of watch movements, the scope isn't all that convenient, except for things like setting anti-shock springs.
  11. Thanks for the tip! However, I've already tried this and I'm afraid I found it too bulky for my needs.
  12. I can see you're wearing the eyeglass on your left eye. Is that because you're left-eyed or because it's more convenient when you do lathe work? The Bergeon clip-on that I'm considering comes in left-eye and right-right versions so I need to get this right for the work I do when assembling/disassembling movements using tweezers and screwdrivers (no lathe work, yet), and as I mentioned I'm both right-eyed, and right-handed and I fear that if I get the wrong version I will end up in an awkward working position. And what would be a good level of magnification? Or perhaps a more relevant question is; what would be a tolerable focal length to make room for my head, tweezers and screwdrivers?
  13. Welcome Dpastl! I'm sorry I can't help you with the movements you're working on but I'm sure someone else around here can and will. I can recommend watchrepairlessons.com as an excellent way to learn about service, repair and fault finding, and of course picking up stuff here on the site.
  14. I need some magnification advice. I’m considering these Bergeon “Clip-On-Spectacles” as I wear glasses. So far, I’ve only used cheap Chinese magnification glasses from eBay, and I’ve been happy with them as they give me a stereo vision (never really liked to look with one eye only). However, it is a constant hassle to switch between my ordinary progressive glasses and my Chinese magnification glasses. So that’s mainly what motivates me. Come to think of it; perhaps progressive glasses combined with a clip-on is a bad mix? Perhaps it would be better to use a pair of reading glasses with a clip on? I’m right-handed and I'm right-eyed, so am I correct to assume that I should go for the right-eyed version of the “Clip-On-Spectacles” to make room for screwdrivers and tweezers? Seems obvious but I want to make sure. What magnification would be the most convenient for working with screwdrivers and tweezers on a movement? The focal length for a 10 power magnification is just an inch, so I assume my head would then bump into my tools. I have a stereomicroscope (20X/40X) that I use when I need to get really close. The focal length of the 5 power clip-on is two inches, perhaps still too close? What is your experience, and what level of magnification would you recommend (10.0, 6.7, 5.0, 4.0, 3.3, 2.8, or 2.5)?
  15. If you haven't already seen them, then I think you will enjoy these two videos:
  16. Mission accomplished! The Eagle has Landed! And if nothing bad happens, I will fall asleep with a big smile on my lips tonight. Thanks a ton for all the help!
  17. I feel pretty confident you found the solution @JBerry ! Take look at this picture taken the opposite of the crown: The notch was very hard to find as it was filled with human goo making it very hard to see. I inspected the entire circumference through my stereo microscope and it was only then that I started to discern what could possibly be a notch. So, I took an extremely pointed needle that I made from an old oiler (using 3M lapping film) and started to work on the suspected surface. Lo and behold, as I started to dig the notch slowly started to appear. Fantastic! Anyway, the width of the notch is so very, very fine (< 0.5 mm) that I'm somehow still not 100 % convinced. Call me silly, but would you say that this "notch" is indeed the notch we're looking for? I've basically only been working on inexpensive Russian watches so far (because I can get at least 15 Russian vintage watches in good condition for the price of this one), so I guess I'm just not used to this level of refinement and precision which seems to go beyond what I thought humanly possible for the price. So, the next challenge, find (or make) the right tool for the job. I will definitely have to sharpen my case knife to get it in between. Again, thank you very much!
  18. Thank you very much, and yes, frustrated to the point I get tunnel vision! Now, this looks promising, so I'll have a very close look again (within the next couple of hours) and will be reporting back!
  19. I’m beginning to feel somewhat desperate as I’ve tried pretty much anything and everything I could come to think of to get the movement out of the case. So, today I removed the crystal (again) and removed the hands. I then tried to push the movement out through the front. I placed as much pressure on the movement as I dared to (quite a bit) but it just won’t budge. Looking at the back of the case through my stereomicroscope I could quite clearly see that the movement won’t come out through the back. As you can see in this image (used a macro lens on my iPhone) there is a case rim and the movement reside under it. I also tried to rotate the movement inside the case (as Mark Lovick does in this video), and it rotates very smoothly but with quite a bit of resistance. I pushed it around with a piece of peg wood in the groove where one of the case clamps sits. Rotating by pushing on the dial would be impossible as there's way too much resistance for that. However, I felt nothing that would indicate that the movement would be ready to fall out of the case. I rotated it 360 degrees to make sure. The movement feels 100 % flush with the case (super precision!). Also, I can’t find any hints on the dial side (crystal removed) which you can see here. So, any ideas? Perhaps see a professional watchmaker, or use a chainsaw?
  20. Yes, it would seem so! Just saw this video where Mark Lovick opens en OMEGA front-loader using this technique. He rotates the dial with a piece of peg wood in the calendar window. Mine has none, but I'll give it a go with some Rodico and see what happens.
  21. I don't think so. I can take a picture with the crystal removed. I'll be back tomorrow...
  22. Servicing my very first OMEGA (Genève 14K, Calibre 601, please see these images) I’ve immediately run into an unexpected problem. I can’t remove the movement from the case! Removing the Snap-On case back, the case clamps, and the stem was done in minutes, but when I turned the case over to let the movement fall out nothing would happen. I gently bounced the case on a case cushion, but to no avail. I removed the crystal and pushed the dial with a fresh piece of Rodico in the hope that the movement would come out, but it just wouldn’t budge. So, I placed a small screwdriver in the stem hole and (gently) tried to leverage the movement out. The same result, it wouldn’t budge. Further investigation gave me the impression that the diameter of the dial could be wider than the diameter of the movement, and if that’s the case it would of explain why it can’t be removed through the back. Question then is if the movement is removed through the front? I’ve never done that so I’m at loss on how to proceed and can only guess. I should mention that I tried to very, very gently push the movement out through the front, but I just didn’t have the courage to push hard, and besides the hands were still mounted. If it’s one thing I’ve learnt during the past two years of trying to service and repair watches, it is that misdirected force will usually spell disaster. So, how can I proceed? Should I remove the hands and simply lean on the movement with my thumb until it hopefully falls/pops out through the front?
  23. I'm just about to start on one of those myself (my very first OMEGA), so I'm very curious to see where you were going... Any chance you'd like to finish that post, please? Cheers!
  24. Please bear with me as I have zero experience in this situation. I just felt like sharing what I come to think of. What if the setting lever screw happens to be pretty loose? Perhaps placing some very small and high friction material (what that would be I have no idea and would perhaps be an even bigger problem) against the screw (which seems to be pointing up quite a bit) and try to turn it clockwise. Same technique as those rubber balls used to open screw down case backs. Perhaps it would loosen the screw enough to make it possible to pull the stem out. Oh well, in practice I doubt that it would work. Anyway, good luck!
  25. I appreciate your advice, thanks! Please share and don't worry about "giving bad advice". People can think and make judgements for themselves, and if not it's hardly your responsibility.
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