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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2019 in Posts

  1. 9 points

    Unitas 6497 Custom Watch

    Hey folks, I'd like to share a watch I put together for my Brother's birthday. The movement is a pretty old Unitas 6497 which I picked up from the widow of a watchmaker a year or so back, the plates have been skeletonised and I'm pretty sure this was a once off job by the watchmaker. The mainplate is brass, and the decorated bridge plates appear to have been plated (quite crudely, when inspected under a loupe). The movement is keeping great time now that it is serviced. I made an attempt at a logo using the film-free transfer technique Mark has used in a couple of recent Youtube videos. The logo didn't adhere very well to the dial, not particularly happy with it. In person and to the naked eye it looks pretty good I think. The case is a 41mm case I picked up from Ofrei, who I sourced the dial and hands from also. Hope ye like it!
  2. 6 points

    ETA Resources

    Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.
  3. 6 points

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  4. 4 points

    Current collection

    I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project.
  5. 4 points

    Lorsa 238G Service

    A well made mov’t that wasn't running. No surprise, as both balance pivots were snapped, there is no shock-protection on this version. I'd classify this mov’t not the best for an absolute beginner, it's 11.5’’' size is fine but there are three flat wire springs not very friendly, many small screws all of different sizes, so to require a full set of screwdrivers. It is interesting to observe how many construction details that have evolved from this old design for reasons of optimization, cost and part count reduction. Let’s get started. To release the stem undo completely the setting lever screw,, then either pull it out, or be careful as it likely will drop as you turn the mov’t over. Dial screws are on the sides and best handled with a 0.70mm driver. Especially if you’re using an ultrasonic cleaner it’s a good practice to remove them to reduce the risk of dropping during work. Remove the dial washer and hour wheel, since the date ring spring holds on the other side of calendar plate I suggest that for caution you place the mov’t in a plastic bag after removing the three screws, and before lifting the plate. You can put away the bag for now to remove the date ring, wheel, and finger, as well as the cannon pinion and the setting lever screw. Now lift the setting spring to reveal the joke and its spring, be cautious when removing the latter. Remove the joke, setting wheel and pinion, clutch wheel, sliding pinion, setting lever, as well the balance cap jewel, and we're done with this side of the mov’t. Strangely, the escape wheel cap jewel was missing. In reality the picture above has the setting lever still in place since I had not removed its screw yet. Now for the other side. Since I had removed the balance cock already, it’s now time to let down the mainspring with the usual pegwood braking technique. We can now remove pallet cock screw, pallet cock, pallet fork, escape wheel cap jewel, And crown wheel (left-handed). Also remove the crown wheel spacer pictured below. Remove the winding wheel screw and wheel, then be careful in removing the click spring, time to use the bag again perhaps. Finally remove the click screw and click. Having taken apart the complete winding system we can now remove the two train bridge screws and the bridge. Train is of the classic type, three wheels plus the escape one, which can now be removed. And finally two more screws for the barrel bridge, the bridge and the barrel. About the barrel and mainspring (sorry, not pictured) I opened the lid and found everything clean and in order. Since I was not to replace the mainspring I took no further action on moved to general cleaning. I did a couple washes in petroleum ether (refined naphtha) and isopropyl alcohol but some opacity remained on the plates, so I left these in ammonia-based cleaner for few hours, then rinsed in petroleum ether. Note that the latter (unlike lighter or engine fuel) contains no oils, fragrance or other additives, and leaves no residue at all. Much better, barrel and bridge already in place! About reassembly, I will not detail all the steps, but only highlights some important aspects. For lubrication I’ve only used three modern, fully synthetic products by Moebius: HP1300 for high-torque parts like winding and setting. 9010 fine oil for other pivots and jewels, it’s easy to apply from the outer side of the hole jewel. 9415 for pallet stones, only because I’ve just received it. Below from left to right, escape wheel cap screw, lower balance cap screw, balance upper cap screws, All have different sizes, so unless you photographed or otherwise set these apart you’ll have to use some logic to refit correctly. Same goes for all the other screws… they may look the same.. but they are not! Below the balance upper cap jewel. It also holds in place the regulator arm, for this purpose it’s slightly beveled. You will have to fit the setting lever on the dial side, and its screw from the other. Just use some rodico to keep the lever in place. The setting pinion goes with the bevel toward the sliding pinion. Barrel and crown wheel screws have different head dia. length and thread direction. You may want to use the plastic bag to fit the click spring safely. Fit the click first, then the long leg of the spring under it, then the bent leg to sit firmly. The joke and setting lever springs are also a bit tricky. All these pivots and sliding points are lubricated with HP1300, don't forget to test the working repeatedly before moving forward. I've found the date ring spring to be the most difficult, because it’s underneath the calendar plate as shown in the disassembly picture. After the spring is in the plate either fit it with a siding manoeuvre to place the spring against the date finger, or position the plate with the screws kept loose, then push the spring in place by the cut that is on the plate for the purpose. There is no date quick setting on this basic mov’t, that is done setting time back and forth across midnight. The finger on the date wheel is pivoting when moving backwards with the help of a really small spring. However doing that much setting counter-clockwise every other month does not damage the escapement, as sometimes is feared. The replacement balance complete came in the “a vis” version, which are there for poising, not rate adjusting. Actually I think the stubs are pressed not screwed. One last detail for the correct installation of the dial washer. Flat side faces and slides on the hour wheel, you can use HP1300 there. The edges somehow grab on the bottom of the dial. This veteran Swiss could have rewarded me a bit more on the instrument, but I hold no grudge and won’t try stunts as fixing beat error at the hairspring collet, adjusting for positions, or getting the missing cap jewel. And that is why I won’t, it would not make much sense for a desk clock! Now, who should own something like that? My friendly blacksmith, of course! I hope you have enjoyed my “no pretenses” article!
  6. 4 points

    Laser Printed Decal

    I've been working on this for a while. My wife's due to give birth any day now and this is what I'm going to give her after the baby is born. This is my first attempt at restoring a dial. HSL was kind enough to send me a spare one to practice on. Which I did, and it ended up being the final one I used. What was also interesting, I attempted Mark's laser printed logo method.Which worked surprisingly well. The edges of the print aren't quite as sharp as the original. But you would have to have a very expert eye to tell the difference. I think with a very high DPI laser printer you could get this more or less perfect.
  7. 3 points

    Roller for 19" Omega Pocket Watch

    And here it is completed. It's been a long process. Lots of cleaning and polishing, a new balance staff, replacing 2 cracked jewels, all kinds of escapement issues. Thanks HSL for the roller! Everything is running great now after 12 rounds of dynamic poising. It's within 30 seconds per day in all positions which I can live with. But most importantly within 8 seconds dial up and pendant up. Pretty good for a century old watch.
  8. 3 points
    Thank you ! :), it works. I aligned the jumper, and when I rotated the calender wheel manually it suddenly snapped in. Now the date has is nice "snap" once it changes the date :).
  9. 3 points
    Got another Waltham Vangaurd movement coming. When will the madness end. Gold settings and diamond end stones sooo hard to resist. Have a few nice cases looking for movements... Still need to find a side wider for my hunter case though....Ron
  10. 3 points
    Here’s a tip for those of you who shop from CousinsUK.com! Cousins have a strict policy when it comes to returns, and if you wish to shop from them you must approve of these terms. However, don’t automatically assume it’s no use to get in touch with them if you feel that something has gone wrong. In my experience Cousins are always willing to listen to your arguments with an objective and humble attitude. My experience with Cousins’ service, prices, and treatment are really the best!
  11. 3 points
    The correct way would be to let the power down with the correct size watch key, by moving the click away from the ratchet, that is located under the little plate, held by the tiny screws. Always remember with a cylinder escapement there are no pallets, so power must be released first before any attempt is made removing the balance. So you have the barrel and the bridge all together. Remove the barrel cape and remove the spring. The barrel arbor should unscrew and become two pieces, and then it will come away from the bridge. Many are not easy to take completely apart, if you find this my advice would be to clean it as it is, you do not want to damage the arbor. You have the thin plate off which exposes the ratchet, that is the part that is going to be the most dirty part and underneath. I cannot remember which way the arbor unscrews. Its over 25 years ago for me. Not all arbors have the two holes as in the diagram above. so be careful.
  12. 3 points
    So the time has come to do a small tutorial on how one could assemble an own noname Watch out of parts harvested from the deepest coners of the web. I took a look in my drawers and after a stiff G&T I decided there might be parts enought to make a try. This should not be looked as the final solution but rather as a complement to Everything else created out there. The tutorial is a 50+ page Collection of Pictures and Words in a PDF format which makes it possible to read it offline too. The Pictures are mine original works so you could even use it as a slideshow at your next Company party! The result from mine attemt looks Little like this.. How to assemble your own watch.pdf
  13. 3 points

    Unusual Incabloc

    Agree with all above. If you decide to remove the endstone assembly, soak in naphta for a day or use penetrating oil on the screws, leave oil to soak-in over night. Sharpen a screwdriver to perfect fit, place the cock on a hard flat surface, press rather hard on the screwdriver, if it dosn,t unscrew easy, soak more. These little screws get stripped easy.
  14. 3 points

    eta 900

    Maybe the crown wheel ring? Try whether it fits on the crown wheel post and if it does see whether the crown wheel fits on it.
  15. 3 points
    I read the thread now properly and see that you already done a build. My offer stands if Nucejoe needs a escape wheel . Have one that looks okay .
  16. 3 points
    The lift angle is not the issue one side of the beat is not correct. It could be a loose impulse jewel, a loose pallet jewel, a dirty pallet jewel or a dirty escape wheel. My first effort to resolve this is to check the pallet jewels for damage and tightness and if OK I would just clean again and lubricate again. Its amazing how the smallest amount of unwanted dirt can effect the performance. On a side note I very rarely bother to adjust the lift angle setting on the timographer unless I suspect it is way out. A smooth pattern on both sides of the beat and a decent amplitude is my goal.
  17. 3 points

    Watch of Today

    More HMT goodness. A quick service and a polish, and a new light tan band brought this sunflower yellow faced beauty back to life. I thought I had all of the scratches out of the crystal, but there is still one little one that caught the sunlight at the 7 O'clock marker. I'm going to have to remove the crystal anyway, to get at the "history" trapped between it and the case, so I'll have another crack at getting it perfect then.
  18. 3 points
    Wanting to do a bearing replacement on a nice Boley Leinen ww-83 I picked up recently, nicklesilver gave me the idea of using angular contact bearings instead of deep groove bearings. AC's need a way of preloading them and need to be installed adjacent to one another or with precision spacers between them. I splurged for the expensive p4's and while they are the right diameters, they're thicker than the OEM deep groove bearing so I had to make both spacers. I bought universal matches AC's so if I ground the spacers exactly the same, it should be the right preload. So far so good, but it did seem like the preload was almost a tad heavy. The groove in the outer spacer is for a felt oil wick Drive. As nice as this lathe is, the drive was terrible. Basically a universal motor with a great big rheostat, yuck. I had a consew motor (variable speed servo) that I moved from below the bench to the back and connecting it to a jack shaft bolted to the bench. I took the brushes out of the motor so its also just a jackshaft, er, flywheel. I made a control box so I can switch between rheostat control of the motor and foot control - you want both for different ops. Its actually a better arrangement as the Consew is mounted on an adjacent bench so zero vibration reaches the lathe. I'm stuck with the hole in the bench....have to 3d print some tool tray thing and make it look intentional. I've 1/2 a dozen watchmakers lathes, each one has something unique, so the idea is they're out of the way in a cupboard but can be placed in front of the jackshaft and set to running in seconds....keeps the bench less crowded and I only have to have one drive. This one has the rare thread cutting attachment, which even has tumbler! To use it though, I'll have to rig up a toggle reverse switch (the consew is a bit of a pita to reverse) I replaced the bearings in the motor and counter shafts as well, stripped and repainted and installed the new p4 spindle bearings. Not shown is a full set of change gears, milling spindle and second 3 way slide rest. I think I'm having too much fun big headstock.....little headstock
  19. 3 points
    I think the best option would be looking for a supplier of jewels for industrial purposes there are plenty about: http://www.true-point.co.uk/ the above supplier has jewels in the range of sizes you would require.
  20. 3 points
    No one has any insight on this vise? Any old time watch/clock makers around that might know about it on this board? At any rate, the refurbish is finished, thought you guys/gals might like to see it. You can see more pics and read a little on the history of G. Boley and Company on my blog HERE.
  21. 2 points
    Before - and - After 107 Timex Automatic. This model orginated with a 31 automatic and was later made with the update 107. This watch insored designer Todd Synder to create a monern version. Actually quite a nice homage but saddly only a quartz https://www.toddsnyder.com/pages/the-military-watch-by-todd-snyder-timex
  22. 2 points

    Elgin Puzzler

    Hi The train wheels are all free running, does the pallet (fork) snap backwards and forwards cleanly when moved, without the balance in , If the action is sharp and crisp the fault lies within the balance area, Is it in beat is balance spring fouling the cock, is the spring concentric, is impulse pin loose , Pallet stones in good shape and not loose, pallet stones locking and un locking ok these are but a few pointers to check before trearing it to pieces again. Doubtless other members will have other actions for you to look at.
  23. 2 points

    Checking end and side shakes

    You could check each wheel individually. That way you will not have anything obstructing your view. I always screwed the plates down to test.
  24. 2 points
    Another 7t34 for the project draw coming from Italy
  25. 2 points

    Hamilton 974 Hands Not Moving

    I figured it out. I totally overlooked that this particular 974 has the little blue locking screw to lock it in the winding position when out of the case which explains why the hands wouldn't move. I didn't have it locked which kept it in the setting position when out of the case and thus not having enough power to turn the hands....I'm an idiot
  26. 2 points

    3D Printing

    I've got the Flashforge Dreamer 3D printer. I've not really made much with it for watchmaking, myself, but have used it for many other things including making parts for my 1970s electro-mechanical pinball machine that were not obtainable any other way. A very important thing to think about when buying a printer is the size of the print bed as this dictates the biggest thing you can make, usually cheaper machines have smaller print beds that will limit the size of things you can make. Try and buy a printer that is fully enclosed as it eliminates the problems of cold drafts cooling the print too much between layers that can lead to print failure. You want a printer that can print from an SD card not just from your computer. That way you don't need to leave you computer on when you are doing an 8 or 12 hour print. Choose a printer that parts are readily available for and that has a big user following, as this will give you more help with finding the best settings. Look at what software comes with the printer and think about what other software you might use. I design most of my parts on the free software sketchup, but purchased simplify3D for doing my slicing as it produces better results than the software that came with my printer. Printers are somewhat noisy and do give off plastic fumes so best if you don't need to leave it running in a small enclosed room. That should give you a little to think about.
  27. 2 points
    Thank you @rogart63 , for sending me the escapewheel. I will pass on three winding stems and three staffs to forum members in appreciation of your generosity.
  28. 2 points

    Carbon mainsprings

    Just tighten the spring for better grip on arbor. Can be wound in manually, rinse and grease afterwards, start from outer coils to wind in.Greasing wont be as thorough but hardly the end of the world. Wear protective gogles. I assume it is manual wind.
  29. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Aeromaster today. Bought and restored ages ago. Bought for less than the cost of a large pizza New outer bezel from a dead donor NOS crystal Cheap movement but I like the styling. https://i.imgur.com/Jxb2f27.jpg
  30. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    You should prepare a very "thin" lume with water based medium and apply on several thin coats. I have some dials to relume next month so I'll take some pics on every step. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  31. 2 points
    I have looked a little bit on those two pictures you posted and would initialy say the represent two different symtoms. The upper one suggest the exit stone on your pallet has some dirt or something on it. The lower picture suggests the hairspring is toutching something, it's a typical signal of that phenomena.
  32. 2 points
    There's a big list here: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/lift_angle In it the 2824 is listed as 53º, and 2824-2 as 50º
  33. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Lovely Rajat right there Andy. On the Yellow theme. I've shown this one before but this one accompanied me as a second watch for my summer hols with my son.
  34. 2 points

    Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough

    Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order) Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order) Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch. Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies. While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”. For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples! A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video. Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive. Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication. So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!
  35. 2 points

    Old lucien picard

    From what you can glean via Google, you can see that Lucien Piccard was a quality make, however I can't find anything online that resembles your particular watch. There is probably a good reason for that. I would guess the watch really is 1940 to 1950 or thereabouts, but there is one minor issue, so far as I can tell, the Piccard should have two "c"s in it, so I suspect that you have a particularly interesting fake. If it were just the dial that was spelled with one "C" then I might give it the benefit of the doubt and say that it was a re-dial, but since the caliber also has Lucien Picard I can only assume this is because it 'aint gen-yew-wine. It probably isn't a recent fake either, but rather one created at that time. The watch is probably worth $20 just for the curiosity value alone. I've seen quite a number of pseudo this and faux that, but not a Lucien Piccard (or rather Lucien Picard). Someone with more expertise may chime in at this point and prove me wrong of course.
  36. 2 points

    D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

    I find a smaller piezo to be a little better. Here I've attached a .zip file containing two comparisons between 27mm and 12mm piezos from an 18000 bph and 21600 bph movement. Hope that helps! 27mm_vs_12mm_Piezo.zip
  37. 2 points

    General clock related question.

    Hi I have attached the pics of the amplifier setup I dont know if the radioshack telephone amplifier is available in the UK any more but there must be others that will work, With the loss of Tandy and Maplins these sort of bits are hard to come by, Might get them off the net .
  38. 2 points

    Can you ID this movement ?

    Hi, The movement appears to be the savonette version of the 11''' Langerdorf/Lanco 1 which probably goes back to the 1920s. As others have stated, it is clearly not original to your watch as Fero used pin-lever movements from Baumgartner, Brac, EB and possibly others. Regards.
  39. 2 points

    USA East Coast Watch Repair Pro ?

    Let see if we can get Mark lovic to service them, wouldn,t hurt to ask. I think he just may want to make a video( lesson) out of it. Just a thought.
  40. 2 points

    General clock related question.

    Is it in beat? Is it making a nice Tick, Tock sound, or does it sound like an old man walking on crutches? If its not in beat it won't run well, or if badly out of beat not at all. An easy test is to tilt the whole case on the wall left or right a few degrees and see if the ticking sounds better or not. If it does then its out of beat and needs to be adjusted which is not hard, just Google 'Putting Clock in Beat' If it was working, got taken home and then stopped working being out of beat is very likely.
  41. 2 points

    Hermle 130-627

    The way of getting these in beat, you move the coiled balance spring until the impulse pins are center, with power on the balance should start to rotate by its self.
  42. 2 points

    Longevity of Leather bands

    I've always used Hirch straps they are very hard wearing and at around £25.00 for a padded one I think they are good value and I can get a good few years from one and a good range of styles available and their straps for fixed wire strap bars are very good. I do not think you would get any longer use out of the extortionately priced manufactures straps such as Omega and Breitling with prices starting at £200.00 even if it lasted 5 years you could still have many many years worth of straps at a fraction of the price of one branded strap they are another way of extracting money from the gullible.
  43. 2 points

    Ladies Timex

    Ok it’s time again to offer a movement to anyone who would like it. Sorry but it has to be UK only due to postage costs. Its a Timex, it looks to be an older movement and it’s running although it appears to be running fast. Oh and it’s free! All I suggest is that the recipient considers offering something that they do not need in the clock/watch world to keep the karma flowing. PM me if you would like and I’ll stick it in the post. First come first dibs
  44. 2 points
    Hi all, Brian Young here. I am not a watch or clock repairer. I came to this website to hopefully gain some insight to watches and watch repair. I recently inherited a pocket watch from my mother; it was her father's Illinois pocket watch made in 1911. I no sooner got it home when I dropped it onto the tile kitchen floor. As you might expect, it no longer works. It lasted 108 years before me and one week after me. I hope you all don't mind if I glom on to your site and pick your brains for info. In the last month, I have purchased two early 1900's Illinois pocket watches, both running, and can't bring myself to cannibalize them in order to get Grandpa's watch running again. So, now I own three pocket watches, two from 1905, running, and one from 1911, needing a balance stem. Hope I haven't broken protocol by talking about the reason why I am here in the introduction post. If so, sorry. I'm not really a rebel. I'm just clueless. Thank you for having me.
  45. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Old pic but decided to wear this today. Great dial colour, flips around depending on the light. Love it on the WatchGecko vintage leather rally strap. Would be nice to find an original bracelet too.
  46. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this very clean Longines dress watch with an L847.3 movement
  47. 2 points

    Refitting a loose Chronograph Hand

    My son today gave me his Seiko Quartz Chronograph that he wears to school with the second Chronograph hand rattling around behind the glass. He tells me it just fell off, but I suspect the watch took a bit more of a harder blow as the minute hand and the large second hand were also knocked out of alignment and interfering with each other. This watch I had given my son a year or so ago after I had used it for one of my projects for my watch class and when I got it the chronograph hand had been loose and I had to tighten it up, so I wasn't overly surprised it had fallen off again. The easiest way to tighten a loose hand if to fit it into the end of a good quality pin vice and do it up so it is just touching the tube and then tighten it a few more degrees so it slightly crimps the tube. You then take it off and check and if still too loose repeat. I did this and the first time it was still too loose and fell back off, crimped it some more and it was still too loose, crimped it a third time and yes you can guess it I did it too tight and now it would not fit. If you do this you then need to broach it back out. I'm lucky in that I have a full set of watchmakers broaches that were my grandfathers so I had one small enough. I held the chronograph hand in my vintage hand pliers and broached it out ever so slightly, checked it was still too tight, so broached it some more and it was a perfect fit. Here is the watch with the hand fitted back on. It was the second hand sitting beside 9. I'm unsure exactly how small the broach was I used, but for comparison here it is next to the tip on my 0.6mm screwdriver and I only used the first 1/3 of the broach This is definitely the smallest hole that I have ever broached out and I'm pleased it worked so well. My son has his watch back so he is also pleased.
  48. 2 points

    Your very first watch ?

    I have a similar one but with a cowboy! Somewhere I have a cowgirl too. It is indeed the pallet fork that gives the motion. My first watch was a Frogger watch, followed by a first gen G Shock. Then a quartz Seiko diver, and finally got an Omega automatic just before I went to watchmaking school. I didn't want to show up with a quartz.
  49. 2 points

    Re-pivoting a clock wheels.

    It is quite easy when you know how. You can use this method for most wheels, on smaller lathes. Similar to how I was trained.
  50. 2 points

    As 1802/03 too slow despite serviced

    Some parts are interchangeable between calibres in the same model family and some aren't. The Jules Borel web site has a very useful facility for working out what parts will fit what movements. http://cgi.julesborel.com/ The beat rate of a movement is determined by the balance assembly and is primarily a function of the inertia of the balance wheel (determined by the size and mass of the wheel) and the length and strength of the hair spring. It is a specific design feature of any given movement. So I happen to have an 1803 and a 1950 in my to do box at the moment, so with a spare half hour this evening I did some tooth counting..... With both of these movements the center seconds wheel drives directly off the escape wheel pinion. On the 1803 the the Center seconds wheel has 80 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 8 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 10rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 150 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 2.5 teeth per second. It takes 2 beats of the balance to get 1 tooth through the pallets, so that's 5 beats per second, or 18000 BPH. On the 1950 the Center seconds wheel has 72 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 6 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 12rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 180 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 3 teeth per second, so that's 6 beats of the balance per second, or 21600 BPH. If you use a 1950 escape wheel in an 1803 without changing anything else then you have the escape wheel turning at 10rpm (determined by the beat rate of the balance) but only 6 leaves instead of 8 leaves on the escape wheel pinion. This means that in 1 minute the escape wheel turns 10 revolutions, or 60 leaves leaves worth of engagement with the center seconds wheel, which has 80 teeth, so the seconds wheel will only make 0.75 of a full rotation. You need another 20 leaves worth of escape wheel pinion rotation to get one full rotation of the seconds wheel, which takes an additional 20 seconds. So with this combination it will take 1 minute 20 seconds for the seconds hand to make 1 revolution of the dial when the balance wheel rate is correct (18000BPH).
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