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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/23/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points

    Seiko 7T27 Movement Or Circuit Board?

    Got the new movement today and the good news was, it is a direct swap, just had to swap the datewheels as the new movement had a white datewheel and the Seiko Gen 2 has a black one. Simple enough to do. Swapped the 7T27 battery plate over with the original Seiko markings too All back together and working great!
  2. 3 points

    Timex Camper Restoration

    Here we have a mechanical wind Timex Camper that has a broken mainspring. Over the next few days I will post pictures of its progress. So here we go -
  3. 3 points

    Finished making my watch

    After I watched a couple of Mark Lovicks videos on making a watch with parts sourced on eBay I figured I'd give it a try. I made two. This is my favorite. It's a divers watch with an eta 2824-2 movement. I'm quite proud of it. I picked up an H link shark mesh bracelet. I'm calling it the deep blue desk diver. Lol
  4. 3 points

    Screw Blueing

    Brass keeps the heat it doesn’t spread the heat outwards. Some people use brass filings. This is the way I used to blue screws. Remove the entire burr with a needle file and use various grade of emery, I used sticks, sometimes cloth. Wash out the screws in my old watch cleaning machine. I had an old copper penny (copper is as good as brass when it comes to heat) that was bent at an angle and held in a mini vice which was held in my bench vice. Sprit lamp underneath the penny, when the penny got hot I would put the screws one by one on the penny and blue them, as soon as the screw was blued drop it in clean oil, I used 3 in 1 this will add a shine to the screws. When all done wash them in the cleaning machine again. All nice and blued (the same colour blue for them all) ready to use when assembling the movement.
  5. 3 points

    homemade cleaning machine ?

    I have often wondered about laying one of my stereo speakers on its back , placing a large dish over the woofer,putting the cleaning solution and parts in a plastic jar and listening to Jethro Tull.
  6. 3 points
    Perhaps the "older" WRT-members remember that I, as a watch-novice (which I still am) back in begin 2016 serviced my own Rolex Submariner (3135). After putting myself through a rigorous training on two ETA 2540 / 2541, 17mm ladies watches, the Rolex 3135 was next. That caused, rightly, some stir on the forum. Before the service I build Stefans Watch-O-Scope to test the end results and to do some adjustments if required. With the excellent video of Mark, servicing a 3135, I performed the service. There were some heart-stopping moments, especially when at the end, while adjusting the daily-rate with a Microstella tool, my right-hand holding the balance-wheel with tweezers started doing his own thing and I bend the hairspring at the stud. Luckily that I could fix......... After the service the Watch-O-Scope signal looked horrible. The beat-error was in different position all over the place. We had endless discussions on the forum about what to do and what was next. Despite the poor W.O.S results, the Rolex ran constantly +2 or +3 seconds a day. Other attempts on the Watch-O-Scope proofed futile and for a long time I've been thinking about admitting defeat and to get the Rolex fixed by an official Rolex service point. That was until today. Even through I was quite happy with the W.O.S. results on all my other watches, I decided (after repairing a heirloom pocket-watch and the owner donated me some extra) to buy the Chinese Weishi 1000 timegrapher. Knowing how the Rolex raw-data looked like on the W.O.S. screen, I didn't expect the Weishi 1000, which came today, to make much sense out of it either. The proof is in the pudding they say, so one of the first watches to test was my Rolex. To my surprise the Weishi 1000 picked the 28800 bpm signal correctly and without any problems up. Even better, and to my big relieve !, the Rolex runs actually quite good. I hadn't worn the Rolex for a least two weeks, so it was cold and had to be hand wound. Lift angle set at 52 degrees. Dial Up: -7 s/d, 294 degrees, 0.1 ms Dial down: -7 s/d, 292 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown down: -3 s/d, 272 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown up: -2 s/d, 278 degrees, 0.2 ms. I know that when worn, the Rolex runs +2 to +3 s/d constantly. This get to show, as @JohnR725 keeps saying with timegrapher signals; Rubbish in = Rubbish out. To my big relieve it also shows that I didn't ruin my Rolex and that it actually runs very fine....... no need for a new balance staff or an official Rolex service, saving me at least a $1000 and giving me a peace of mind. I've been very happy with the W.O.S and it still has its place. The Weishi 1000 however ....... It thoroughly impresses me ! I like to thank everybody for their input a few years back and just in case there were still some members out there wondering & worrying about my novice Rolex "endeavor", we can now put this aside and all sleep well Cheers: Roland.
  7. 2 points

    Running Oh So Fast

    To calculate the train, you can start from the center wheel for beats per hour or in your case the 4th wheel for beats per minute (if the watch has a 4th wheel that turns once per minute, usually but not always the case- of course it is for a chrono), as you like. From center wheel you multiply all the wheels, CW x 3rd x 4th x escape, x 2 (for the two beats for a tooth to "escape"), and divide that by the driven pinions multiplied together, so 3rd x 4th x escape. That gives the beats per hour. In your case it's from the 4th, so 84 x 20 x 2= 3360 divided by 7=480 that's the beats per minute, or 8 per second, or 28,800 per hour.
  8. 2 points

    Running Oh So Fast

    You calculated 24 revolutions of the escape wheel per minute which is the error in my point of view. Looking at a working escapement you will find that it needs 2 beats to let the escape wheels move 1 tooth further. So the ew makes 12 revs per minute and your further calculation fits.
  9. 2 points

    Watch of Today

    Oh I forgot the wrist shot. Scratches at 8 and 11 o'clock are now gone. Where did all of that dust come from, it wasn't there two seconds before I took the shot.
  10. 2 points

    Running Oh So Fast

    Well the replacement fourth wheel finally arrived so I was able to compare it against the fourth wheel that was in the movement. Now I know the wheel I purchased is correct for the 1045 movement because it was still in it's original package (Omega Part #1045-1243) but to the naked eye (well, with the help of a loupe) both wheels looked exactly alike. This caused me a bit of concern since I was pretty darn sure the fourth wheel was the problem area. Counting gear teeth under the microscope the old wheel came in at 83 teeth and the new wheel at 84! Now we're getting somewhere! So I swapped out the wheels, reassembled the movement and let it run for a day- it's now just a minute fast per day and I should be able to regulate that out. Looking at the wheel to pinion tooth ratio I came up with the following- which obviously isn't correct so maybe someone can check my math! The movement beats at 28,800 bph. That's 8 beats per second. The escape wheel has 20 teeth on the wheel and 7 on the pinion. The correct fourth wheel has 84 teeth. If I figure there are 480 beats per minute (8 x 60 = 480), then divide that by the twenty teeth of the escape wheel (480/20 = 24), multiply the quotient by the number of teeth on the escape wheel pinion (24 x 7 = 168), and lastly divide that by the number of teeth on the fourth wheel (168/84 = 2) I end up with two revolutions of the fourth wheel for every 480 beats; clearly this isn't correct. The correct answer should be one revolution of the fourth wheel for every 480 beats. Somewhere I goofed up. If I run the same calculation using the old fourth wheel (83 teeth) I end up with 2.024096 revolutions per minute- which is clearly faster. At any rate the problem has been solved and the watch is finished. Thanks again for the input everyone.
  11. 2 points

    Omega caliber 613

    Worked like a dream Rodabod!!!! Thanks a million!! Now is going to be a great Sunday evening.... Thanks again,,,,
  12. 2 points
    you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750. also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers. as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.
  13. 2 points
    The key to removing balance staff is not to damage / bend the balance arm. The platax tool used correctly supports the arm and the correct tool to be used with a staking tool also supports the balance arm. However for this reason I always now remove as much of the rivet as I can before pushing out the old balance to avoid any possible damage to the arm.
  14. 2 points

    FHF 70 running slow, good amplitude

    I have not taken pictures - sorry normally I do but this job required 120% concentration and a lot of lateral thinking the very small pin was very difficult to remove that was holding the HS end in place. Eventually I got it moving and out, but it was not very tapered. i ended up taking ages to reshape it slightly with 2000 grit paper. it turned out it was easier to cut the HS and remove the pin then. obviously I had to estimate the bend to put back into the spring, and then shape it again slightly when back in situ and pinned. the pin was fiddly as hell to get back into place, thank god for No5 tweezers. then checked the shape of the spring again and tweak accordingly I ended up refitting the balance complete and moving the adjuster to give me a visual line for working out the orientation of the pallet jewel, taking it off and turning the collet until I was happy, did that a couple of times. overall about 4 hours
  15. 2 points

    Screw Blueing

    I have blued hands & screws and I found the key is absolute cleanliness. To absolutely make sure after rubbing down I use methylated spirits which works great for removing all grease. The slower it is blued and the more even the heat the better.
  16. 2 points
    This just came out and I thought I'd share it with you guys. I've written lot of articles for Home Shop Machinist magazine over the years and this is a four part how- to-build-it series starting this month. The tool is an aid toward aligning machine tool ways when you scrape them, its my design but is patterned after a commercial one unavailable now for decades (It think mine has a number of improvements) . Fairly esoteric, but it generates a good bit of interest as scraping is a very cool thing in that with fairly simple hand tools you can take best of breed machine tools and restore the bearing surfaces to their original accuracy or better. Tenths of thou territory (microns for you guys across the pond ). Probably not many here into machining, but its my main hobby and what got me interested in clocks and watches. Cheers
  17. 2 points

    Omega 1345 day date problems

    You will need access to the keyless side to see what is wrong. This requires the movement to be removed from the case and then the hands & dial to be removed.
  18. 2 points

    Rotor bearing replacement

    How did you know the bearing need be replaced. Simple clean and oiling may be all you need.
  19. 2 points

    Oris TT1 7750 Question

    In my experience, the "Pro" will only do what makes money, and repairing a heavily damaged item wont make any money. Furthermore if spares are hard to come by, or there are other roadblocks on the way to fixing the thing, then they would say it is beyond (economical) repair. My philosophy is different, so far as I am concerned, *anything* can be repaired if you are prepared to throw enough time and money at it. I have fixed up a bunch of watches that were not worth repairing from a commercial standpoint, but which I found fun and interesting to fix. Cheap EB8800 pin lever based watches for example, are not worth the trouble of getting working, unless, like me, you are doing it for your own amusement. The spare parts cost more than I am spending on the whole watch, so I rob parts from donor movements, and clean and service stuff that any "pro" would consign to the bin. At the end of the day, I have the satisfaction of owning something interesting and possibly in some cases unique, or at least increasingly rare, as more and more of these old time pieces are consigned to landfill. Along the way, I am learning, and keeping the old grey cells active. It sure beats vegetating in front of the constant stream of drivel being churned out by the mainstream media.
  20. 2 points

    Pocket-watch hand repair ....

    Thought it may be worth to share; I received a pretty beaten up, none-running 1890-1900 cylinder-escapement pocket-watch. It had all sorts of problems, a list too long to go into details. Among those problems was a bend/broken minute hand. It inevitably broke off when trying to straighten it. The center-hole diameter of the minute-hand was 0.5mm and the length was 15mm. The hour-hand had a hole diameter of 2.0mm and the length was 10mm. Searching the internet to find an identical set proofed futile. The watch is a heirloom so originality was a priority. The hands turned out the be made of bronze, a copper-tin alloy. Therefor it made sense to attempt soldering but the part that had to be soldered had a thickness of only 0.3mm. Both parts had to be fixed in place with a sort of clamp capable to fixing both parts, being heat resistant and "none-sticking". A soldering iron, even with the smallest tip, would be far too big for the job and to avoid touching the parts, I choose to use a hot-air gun used in electronics for soldering SMD-components to a circuit-board. A few test were made which tin to use and at which temperatures. 300 degrees C with tin used in electronics seemed to work fast and made the tin to flow nicely. I used a soldering flux-paste. The clamp consisted of two metal rails, slightly diverting from each other to give many clamping options, bolted on a plate of gypsum. Pulling over a #1000 grid sand paper, I made two 45 degrees chamfered edges on either end of both parts; The two parts were clamped in; Applied some soldering flux, heated it all up to 300 deg.C and applied a tiny bit of tin. Once cooled down, I removed some excess tin with a small diamond file. Here a picture of the back side of the minute-hand; And here the front; the tin didn't flow further away from the soldered joint or around the edges Most likely not the strongest repair in the world, but when not touched it should be strong enough to do the job. On the picture the hand color looks black, but that's due to the lighting. In reality the hand hasn't lost any of its shiny patina at the front ...... Anyway, I thought to share this repair as one of the many different possibilities
  21. 2 points
    I can find faults with all of them. Never use a re-bushing tool. The chap re-busing a carriage clock. If you use the reamer correctly it will self-centre in the hole, all this hold it like this and push it the other side is rubbish. If you use very large reamers as he showed you, a little lube such as oil and you will always have a perfectly round hole. Never bush from the outside, always from inside the plate. When you need to tap the bush in place put it on a block and with the correct size flat punch tap it in, the way he showed, you could miss and hit the plate causing a mark and as it’s a carriage clock and the movement is visible it will always be seen. The customer will not be happy, you have de-valued the clock. I never liked pre made bushings. I preferred to make my own by measuring the plate, pivot and oil well, making it, I knew it would fit properly and would not be seen. A movement that is visible and re-bushed correctly, you should never be able to see the work.
  22. 2 points

    Hello from the rubber city USA

    This being a family friendly forum..I concluded you were talking about tires.
  23. 2 points

    travel clock identification

    Sometimes an ultraviolet light can help. I would use one on Loncase Clock dials, always worked for me.
  24. 2 points
    Done Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  25. 2 points
    This particular one is not possible to pin unfortunately. The best remedy is to clean out the old adhesive and apply new. I would use a slower drying epoxy (very very small amount applied using a clock oiler for example). Apply when the glue is tacky enough to hold the spring in place so you can test if it is correctly positioned. Once you are convinced of its correct position along the length of the end of the spring then leave it to set. Do this with the stud re-attached to the index but the hairspring not attached to the balance staff so that you can check the position of the hairspring collet being directly over the pivot hole. This will make it easier for you to observe that the spring is straight and true on the stud.