Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2019 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    oldhippy

    Something to lighten the day.

    Four Catholic men and a Catholic woman were having coffee. The first Catholic man tells his friends, "My son is a priest, when he walks into a room, everyone calls him 'Father'." The second Catholic man chirps, "My son is a Bishop. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Grace'." The third Catholic gent says, "My son is a Cardinal. When he enters a room everyone says 'Your Eminence'." The fourth Catholic man then says, "My son is the Pope. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Holiness'." Since the lone Catholic woman was sipping her coffee in silence, the four men give her a subtle, "Well....?" She proudly replies, "I have a daughter, slim, tall, 38D breast, 24" waist and 34" hips. When she walks into a room, people say, "Oh My God!"
  2. 7 points
    Deggsie

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 5 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  4. 4 points
    bjd1020

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. 4 points
    mcaustin

    First project

    I just completed my first project - (nearly, as described below) full service of this Elgin Sportsman. I polished the crystal and cleaned a whole bunch of gunk out. It's mostly complete - I have a new main spring for it that justbarribed with the strap (I was waiting to pay shipping once). I've given it to my wife and she chose the strap herself. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
  6. 4 points
    Hello All, This is my first post so I thought I would show a little finishing technique I learnt a while back. It basically turns the ratchet or crown wheel into a matte/ frosted finish. It was popular back in the day with some high end companies and still looks good in my opinion. I'll run through how it's done and try answer your questions as best as possible. What you need: 1. glass plate 2. Micron paper in various grits. 20 and 12 will do. 3. Tetrabor 800 grit/ mesh 4. Ultrasonic or cleaning machine 5. rodico First thing first, you have to flatten your ratchet wheel. To do this I use some lapping paper on glass. I start on a 20 micron and rub the ratchet wheel with my finger in a figure 8 pattern or circular or however I feel. (we arent trying to achieve black polishing flatness) If you are worried you can set up a jig to hold the ratchet wheel. but I often find using your finger will suffice. Once happy, move onto a 12 or 9 micron and do the same. At this point it is imperative to clean the wheel so that you remove all the grit from the paper that may be stuck between the teeth. So chuck it in an ultrasonic or your cleaning machine. Next place some tetrabor onto your plate, no need to add oil or water. place wheel onto plate and start rubbing it in. Generally it doesn't take to long no longer than a min or so. Doesn't hurt to check the piece to see how the finish is developing. if you want to check you can dab it with rodico, very carefully to remove the tetrabor. Do NOT wipe with a tissue or anything, this finish scratches so easy its crazy!! you can always chuck it through the ultrasonic (carefully) to see how the pattern is going. Its the checking and chasing that one last scratch which takes up the most time. The slightest bit of dust or dirt on the glass plate will scratch the wheel. You can always blue the wheel after, it comes out with an interesting tone when blued with this finish. This technique is fairly hard and does take some time to get good at, because it's just so easy to scratch and because of this scratches stand out against the matte surface. I'll try answer questions as best as possible. I try and post interesting stuff on Instagram regularly at least 3 to 4 times a week. obr_horology is my account on insta. its just time consuming to post (slow at typing) I plan on doing a youtube video in the coming weeks to better explain it. I learnt this from Henrick Korpela. Check him out if you haven't heard of him. He also writes in the AWCI and gives away a lot of info. Thanks O
  7. 4 points
    Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  8. 3 points
    This has been a challenging restoration, just finished it today. Rags to Riches I’m a Seiko guy, but have come to appreciate these 8110A Citizens
  9. 3 points
    dbals

    oh boy, here we go again

    At our last house someone called the cops as I was brewing beer. Said I was making moonshine- cops come asked a couple of questions and showed up a few hours later when their shift was over with beers to learn how to homebrew! I showed those neighbors!
  10. 3 points
    Dpastl

    Homemade watch hand setters

    Hey All, I thought I'd share the plans for making watch hand setters. I wasn't able to get any cheaply or easily so I decided to make my own. A note of caution, turning small diameter PVC is a pain. I was able to after much trial and error, but the accuracy was pretty bad. To be fair I was using an enormous 13x48" engine lathe with a 3jaw chuck and HSS tools ground for steel so your results may vary. Design is based on pictures of other watch setters I found on the internet. I chose 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm and blunt tips. Cheers, Watch Hand Setter Drawing.pdf
  11. 3 points
    noirrac1j

    Cleaning a movement

    d-i-s-a-s-s-e-m-b-l-e-d! J
  12. 3 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    On the way to me from the USA, always wanted a GP
  13. 3 points
    m1ks

    Budget friendly Bergeon-ique winder/tester

    A recent purchase which I thought warranted a review. Chinese Bergeon style winder/tester for auto watches at under £35! I'm pleased with it currently and will see how it holds up with more use, past 2 days with a morning and evening 2 hour session on an auto plug timer so far.
  14. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Something to lighten the day.

    A very small Catholic parish agreed with the priest that the trim around their mostly stone church was in bad need of a new coat of paint. Lacking much in the way of funds, they advertised for bids, emphasizing the need for economy. One local house painter of questionable reputation looked the job over and thought to himself, "I can make a quick buck here if I play my cards correctly". He submitted a very low bid and sure enough, the parish secretary phoned him a few days later to let him know that he had been awarded the job. The painter's plan was simple enough. He had just enough old paint left over from previous jobs and would not only mix them together, but also thin them severely so that he could cover the trim with new paint for only the cost of his labor. Accordingly, he arrived on the job site with his paint, rollers and brushes and began painting furiously. He needed to get the paint applied, collect his money and depart before a looming black rain cloud dumped rain on his fresh paint. That would wash all of his thinned paint from the trim and create a very expensive problem for him. He was applying paint to the last 50 ft or so of trim when the skies opened and it poured down in buckets for close to 1/2 hour without letup. The painter had taken refuge inside the church and upon exiting and looking up at his now thoroughly ruined paint, he thought to himself, now what am I to do? Right on cue a deep, resonant voice spoke to him from the departing storm clouds above. "My son, repaint and thin no more".
  15. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    1978 Timex 'Viscount'
  16. 3 points
    AndyHull

    Something to lighten the day.

    Well, when Nigel Farag's lot have dragged us all back to 1926, I'm sure we will all be measuring our cloth in cubits, drinking our beer by the firkin and tugging our forelocks to our imperial masters once more. In the meantime I'll stick with Napoleon's system.. apart from kilometers of course 'cos those are bonkers. Speaking of which.. Lincolnshire archaeologists have found the grave of what is believed to be Britain's oldest man. The headstone was discovered by the side of a road that was once an ancient trackway. Careful examination of the enigmatic carvings on the stone have revealed not just his age (147) but the fact that his name was Miles from London !!!
  17. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    This arrived today
  18. 3 points
    Squiffything

    Watch of Today

    Oulm quartz dual time arrived in the post today and I am impressed with the quality. Also received a nice little bit of reading material. I may finally get around to sorting out the Westminster Smiths clock :)
  19. 3 points
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    AS 1187 movement generic Hong Kong case.Dial decal printed on IJP. Franken for sure,but a fun experiment in spare parts.
  20. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  21. 3 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    Look how badly the escape wheel was worn! Obviously the old one on the left and new one on the right!
  22. 3 points
    noirrac1j

    Omega today

    My B'day was yesterday, and this is a gift. I took it off the bracelet and today I've worn it to work. First day on the wrist and its working nicely. Its not too bulky and just the right size. Notice the stainless steel table--gives a hint as to where I am.
  23. 3 points
    nickelsilver

    Bergeon 4509 silicon 7

    There should always be some left over on the foam, you should be able to grease about ten thousand gaskets before needed to add grease. (Slight exaggeration, but it lasts a long time.) When you find that gaskets are coming out too dry for your liking, add some, maybe the size of a green pea, and spread it around on one of the foam sponges. If you put tons you might saturate the foam and the gaskets come out with way too much.
  24. 3 points
  25. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    For Easter Sunday - 1961 \ 1962 "21 Jewels" - The 21 series was the follow up to the 400 series that had either a Hatori or Laco movement inside. You will find many transition piece such as this one that have 400 as the case back. There are even 400 series with 21 jewel movements.
  26. 3 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    After 2 weeks of Vostok Komandirskie testing on the wrist back to a vintage watch. (Very consistent and gaining pretty much in line with timegrapher so I'll regulate it a smidge). Omax automatic winding with AS2066 movement. This one has been fun, received and tested and it seemed to be running erratically. Checked on timegrapher and the beat error was all over the place. On opening I discovered the stud lever was not correctly attached to the balance cock, so auto work off. Balance off, wheel and hairspring removed and quite a bit of fiddling with a couple of pairs of tweezers ensued to get stud lever, regulating lever and cock to fit together. Then reassemble. Set beat. Regulate, reassemble automatic work. Re case, test, timegrapher was picking up the correct rate but seemed to be only picking up alternate ticks, removed, removed automatic works, re tested, same, removed checked and reinstalled balance cock, same. Set and left it for the night and this morning checked and it's keeping decent time, then I thought, I'll just try adjusting the stud lever again because it was niggling me that it was almost at the furthest point of travel to the cock. Suddenly I've got a tick and a tock again and unlike before no movement necessary to get the balance to spin, in fact it's nigh on impossible to get it to stop now that it's correctly in beat. The moral of this? Technology is great but it isn't infallible and won't help you being a dumbass and not physically checking the impulse pin alignment! After that, I have to say I really like this watch. It's in the 'to clean and lubricate' pile.
  27. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Watch of Today

    Another nice one Mo. Personally, I think it would look better on my wrist but that's just an opinion.
  28. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    My recent restore of a 1984 Timex Diver style. Problem was that moisture had gotten in because someone had glued in the wrong size crystal. After several attempt to revive the movement I moved on to a swap which was also in bad shape but did comeback quite well. I added the band was to give it a full Timex look.
  29. 2 points
    Hmmm, kind of! But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking. After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle). I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament. Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first). Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
  30. 2 points
    Colditz

    New Workshop/Studio

    Not long been back from Thailand. Love the place. Been 3 times now. Did Island hopping, lot of sea fishing - fresh fish with Thai food every day. The fish we caught we gave excess to t he locals and t he hotel chef cooked meals for 4 for 300Bhat. Cool! Have a great holiday Mark.
  31. 2 points
    A faceted crystal has ..faces but not a lip. Seiko did not use glue often, and the crystal will not leave by pushing with a thumb. Fortunately, Seiko helps watch repairers by classifying and documenting the case construction, here we have an "A" as stamped on the case back. Attached the guide. A good discussion is at https://www.plus9time.com/seiko-case-back-information BTW, I recommend the OP to use the "Watch Repairs Help & Advice" section when it's repair question like this. One advantage is that there answers can be rated and marked as resolving. 1982.03 Seiko Case Servicing Guide.pdf
  32. 2 points
    I just press the tip of the hand down at the center of the 12 marker with a finger as I push on the plunger. With the hour and minute counters I just adjust the alignment by rotating the plunger as I'm pressing down. Also you might hear some people tell you to hold the reset button in as you install the hands. Does nothing here so save yourself the effort. It does press the hammer into the hour recorder but only the hour recorder, and when you let go of the reset and the brake comes to mesh with the teeth on the hour recorder wheel chances are the hand will be shifted out of alignment.
  33. 2 points
    milosbn

    Aerowatch Neuchatel conversion...

    Perfect fitting ...and i just can say it is a superb watch ! What say you? Послато са SM-J600FN уз помоћ Тапатока
  34. 2 points
    Marc

    I put away my cartridge razor

    About 20 years ago I came across my dad's old straight razor, a Sheffield made Taylor's Eye Witness. It was just the blade and dad had relegated it to cutting quill pens for calligraphy. He once told me that he considered one of his greatest achievements to be successfully shaving with it on a moving steam train just after WW2 without any blood loss. Anyway, I made new scales for it, honed it up and gave it a go, and was mightily impressed. I have since managed to accumulate around 30 of the things along with a couple of vintage strops, and they are regularly used as part of my daily ablutions. However, for speed on workday mornings I use a DE razor. I have 2 of them, a 1950's Gillette Aristocrat, and a 1920's Gillette #77 set open comb (the only 2 piece Gillette ever made), and they get used in equal measure. Using Wilkinson Sword blades they are about the best shave I've ever had after the straight. As for saving money, my entire shaving inventory has been sourced from car boot sales for a total cost of about £40, and that includes 25 unopened packs of NOS Wilkinson Sword blades. Vintage Gillettes are now very collectible. I have managed to pick up a good half dozen at car boot sales over the last couple of years, never pay more than about £2, clean them up and straight on ebay. The one piece TTO's and adjustables always fetch good money, and mint boxed Aristocrats reliably get well over £100.
  35. 2 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Today I have a Ruhla/UMF "Falux" branded pin lever based on a late variant of their Caliber 24 design and produced in the GRD around 1978. The movement looked familiar, and indeed is very similar to a Saxon branded Ruhla I restored at back in november. I found a couple of nearly identical versions of this dial on line, with Saxon and other logos. It runs reasonably well, but the balance objects if I try to get the beat error below about 3ms, so there is probably a little wear or eccentricity issue there. I didn't delve any deeper as I suspect it might not be possible to improve on the results owing to the somewhat rudimentary nature of the balance. It whirs away at a somewhat pedestrian 18000 bph with an almost cartoonish and very audible tick-tock, but has kept pretty reliable time over the last day or so. Edit: Given the spec of the movement, I think this particular one is well within spec. Escapement: Pin Pallet Escapement with a Safety Blade and Roller Balance Spring: Temperature Compensating Accuracy: +240 sec/ – 120 sec/day Number of Beats per Hour: 18,000 Diameter of movement: 24mm Height of movement: 6mm -2 to +4 mins per day. That is a pretty big target to hit.
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    jameswarner1011

    Vintage watch help

    Better pics with my wifes phone Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  38. 2 points
    jameswarner1011

    Vintage watch help

    Shipment came in guys! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  39. 2 points
    HSL

    Vintage watch help

    Yes there was some monocoque cases too , almost forgott about those. Guess it's a 505 in that beauty? (I'm not at all biased )
  40. 2 points
    noirrac1j

    Watch of Today

    Snazzy green sweep hand....HULK edition!
  41. 2 points
    TexasDon

    Something to lighten the day.

    In a similar vein: An old cowboy, who also happened to be blind, walked into a blonde biker chick bar without being aware of it's specific clientele. He just wanted a beer. He perched on a stool at the bar and order a cold one. When the bartender delivered his brew, he asked if she would like to hear a good blonde joke. A hush came over the entire bar as the bartender responded. "I'm a blonde and I can bench press 250 lbs. The lady on your right is blonde and she's a professional wrestler. The lady on your left is blonde and she teaches karate". "Are you certain that you want to tell a blonde joke in here?" Well, not if I'm going to have to tell it three times" the old cowboy replied.
  42. 2 points
    manodeoro

    CUSTOM DECAL DIAL TUTORIAL

    Hi guys … I had promised that I would make a « custom decal dial tutorial » on another thread there So here we are … There are many variations of decal dials, the best IMHO being the « negative gilt » dials which gives the best results. The process I’m showing today is aabout how to make a dial with black printings on a one color background. I had a cheap quartz diver waiting in my drawers so I’ll make a Heuer diver hommage based on the 980.016 model (quartz one too). DAY 01 : It’s 4:30 AM (I’m an early bird) and I have 2 hours to kill before a business trip to Paris (I’m French) so I decide I have time enough to begin. The first part of the process is to prepare the dial plate : - stripped it, removing all the lumes bars and dots - soaked the dial for some minutes in acetone to remove the paint - filled the tiny holes where the bars and dots go with cyanolite glue - sand everything flat I sand with 800 and don’t try to get a smooth surface as I want the paint to adhere perfectly to thedial plate. Here is the result … Then I want to spray paint. I make a tube with some painter’s tape, from a « curve » with it and place it on a plastic bottle cap. I want it curved so that I can stick the dial on it without any risk of bstructing the center hole or the date window of the dial plate. So I stick the sanded dial plate on the tape tube. As you can guess from the pic below … that’s not the first time a make an orange dial. Then I place the bottle cap and dial plate on a paper sheet and spray paint in orange. I use street art spray paint as it is « water resistant ». As you can see on the next pic, I don’t try to get a smooth surface, or even to perfectly cover the dial plate at first. I will let this coat dry, sand it with 2000 grade, then spray 1 or 2 coats until I get a perfectly smooth orange dial plate, ready for receiving a decal. So I place the bottle cap and dial under a shooter glass and will let it dry for about 24 hours before sanding and spraying the second paint coat. The 24 hours drying time is really important (though it could depend on the paint you use). The paint I use looks perfectly dry after about 5 hours but if you spray the second coat without waiting enough, that coat won’t perfectly adhere to the first and you could get a granular surface like an orange peel. And here is the dial waiting under the shooter glass. On the right is a « negative gilt » dial (third and last matte varnish coat) On the background there are two Raketa 2609 movements from the 70ies, quietly (really loudly to be honest) ticking for test after I‘ve recently serviced them. Now it’s 5:45 AM so I will have a and go to the train station. I’ll sand the dial plate this evening and spray the second paint coat tomorrow morning. Then sand it in the evening and spray the third coat (if needed) the day after. DAY 02 - DAY 03 : So here's what you get after the first paint coat … doesn't look really good but no matter as there's still some work to do to get a better result. And here's what you get after 3 coats of paint, each one sanded with 2000 grade, to get a perfect finish, flat and smooth. Now the dial plate is eady to receive the decal. DAY 03 : I won’t explain anything about Photoshop and Illustrator here … I’ll only explain how I print my decals. One thing really important, from my own experience, is the definition of the design. I’ve tried several, from 1200ppp to 6000pp and the best results I’ve got on printing decal sheets were with a 4000ppp definition. So all my dial designs are done in 4000ppp. The result is really BIG files … for example an A6 template with 12 dial desings ready to print is about 800Mo. As that dial is black printing only I open it with Photoshop and let the softwre (so ont the printer) deal with the printing quality. My printer is an old Epson Picturemate with a 1200 maximum definition. As the good quality decal sheets are not cheap and as I’m a « skinflint» I often print on A7 sheets … 6 dial designs on one sheet. When printed you should let it dry for about 4 hours then spray 2 really thin coats of matte varnish, letting each coat dry for at least 12 hours (24 hours is better). DAY 04 - DAY 05 : 2 days of speed-hiking with my wife so I didn’t worked on that tuto. You can check on the net what speed-hiking is, but to summarize it’s hiking as fast as you can with really light backpacks, trying not to run (or only short runs). On a good day you can walk 5 to 6 miles/hour … when trained you can walk up to 6,5 miles/hour … and while I trained for my first 62 miles ultra I achieved to walk (no running) up to 6,85 miles/hour (11 km/heure). DAY 06 : Today is Monday 6:00 AM. It’s been 5 days since I begun that tutorial and … my legs ache and all my body is painful (see Day 04 - Day 05) The dial plate is ready and the decal sheet too. You can see that the decal sheet looks matte now. That is because I have sprayed 2 coats of matte varnish on it, to protect the inkjet ink while I’ll soak the decal in water. Of course if you print with a laser you won’t have to spray varnish as the laser inks are (almost) water resistant. First thing to do is to chose the best item on the decal sheet and cut it round. Then you are ready to go. On the next pic you can see all you need now : - dial plate … fixed on a foam board using the dial feets - decal dial … nicely cut round - tweezers - thin and smooth brush (mine’s a watercolor brush) - some « micro set » … or just vhite wine vinegar (it helps the decal to set on the dial plate) - cold water Now you put the decal in cold water and while it soaks you brush some micro-set (or white vinegar) on the dial plate. Then you put the decal on the dial plate. Here you can see why I prefer using clear decal sheets on coloured dial plates … because it’s much easier to « perfectly » positionate the decal, using the central hole and the date-window. When you’re happy with the position of your decal you use a paper tissue to absorb the excess of water. Do that carefully as you don’t want to move the decal on the plate. And here we are … everything worked fine while absorbing the water and the decal position is OK. I’ll let it dry for about 12 hours before I cut the central hole and the date window, before I proceed to the varnish finish. Still Day 06 but 7:00 PM The decal has dried for about 13 hours so now I can proceed on cutting the decal sheet That's what I do then I : - fix it back on the foam board - apply some « micro set » around the center hole, the date-window and the outer diameter - gently press with a paper tissue so that the decal is perfectly applied (no more «air bubbles) And I let dry for 3 hours more Evening … 10:00 PM Now the decal is « perfectly » applied and dried and ready for the finish Last pic for today is after spraying the first coat of glossy varnish I will let it dry for 12 hours, sand it with 2000 grade paper and apply the 2nd coat. DAY 07 : 20:00 AM … only 1 pic today just after finely sanding with 2000 grade the 2nd varnish coat I applied yesterday DAY 08 : Yesterday evening I applied the 3rd and final varnish coat after finelt sanding and cleaning And today I can show you the final result … and say I'm pretty happy That dial is so glossy it’not easy to get a good pic, even on close-up. May I say that me hpone is nit the best at shooting pics (just like me) and the actual dial is much much better that it looks on the pictures below. I hope that you liked that tutorial and that it could be helpfull to members who want to try to build their own watch dials. I’ll try to make better pics with a real camera and a better lens … next week of the week after, after luming the dial together with the hands. Then I will still have to get a case and rework it so that it could be a 980,016 lookalike. Some of you may wonder how much time did I spend to make that dial. It took 8 days to achieve the all process but I spent only 1 hour the first day then only from 15mnm to 5mn the days after. So, apart from the design work on Illustrator and Photoshop (which took me hours), I would say that the whole process is about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that it's not my first try at dial making and I've trained for 2 years now. So if you want to try you should consider spending a few more hours but it's really worth the time spent as at the end you get your unique DIY dial.
  43. 2 points
    More low cost fun. Just a little over three and a half quid each. My guess is, possible franken-dial, probably original and probably original. I spent more on two coffees and a couple of sticky buns in the supermarket cafe yesterday.
  44. 2 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    An old favorite, the Roxedo EB 8800 pin lever is back on my wrist today. I like the simple uncluttered elegance of the design of this piece. It make a very readable, robust and comfortable daily wearer.
  45. 2 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    The blue/green "Japan Made" Frankenzen is getting an airing today. It polished up quite nicely. The timeless sands of India and the glue stains are gone and it is now running fairly well (around +7 to +15 s/day). I'll keep an eye out for a less "interesting" dial, and if one comes up, I may return it to a more conventional look. For the time being though, I'll just enjoy its quirkiness.
  46. 2 points
    nickelsilver

    Question about poising

    That's a pretty great rate, but there is a little error, more evident as would be expected at low amplitude. Just try out moving the spring in the direction to get it centered and see what the effect is. If it were me I would leave it, I would bet you are at a similar delta and overall rate as your full wind at 24h. Plus it's an auto so it spends most of it's life far from the 24h mark. But it looks like a very slight poise issue, and would require just a tiny removal of material. One problem with chasing "perfection" is every time you manipulate the balance, there's a risk of introducing a new error, from slightly tweeking the hairspring to a microscopic piece of dirt getting in a pivot, or on the roller jewel, or the lower pivot brushing the fork slot (oil on the slot), to a half a dozen other things. 7750 is pretty robust and tolerant, it's worse as you get smaller (0.06mm pivots can drive you to drink).
  47. 2 points
    jdm

    6R15 23 jewel movement

    That is counterfeit watch. From far you can see SEIKO on the dial is too small, date window too small, lettering at 6H too big and raised. On the back, the rotor is stamped so poorly, rotor hub has no ball bearing, and more, it doesn't even try to look like a Seiko mov.t What's interesting is that in this class of watches, fakes were virtually unknown. Even for the ultra-popular SKX007/9, I have seen only a single set of picture from Malasya, but never anything like this. I suggest that you post these picture in the Seiko section of watchuseek.com with an indication of where it was bought. Or, I'll be glad to do that using your pictures.
  48. 2 points
    I put it on the impulse faces of the escape wheel teeth (all).
  49. 2 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  50. 2 points
    eezy

    Best magnification device for old eyes...

    Yes but mine is this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600X-3-6MP-USB-Digital-Microscope-4-3-Display-LCD-Electronic-HD-Video-Stand-Kit/183572621415?epid=21026543881&hash=item2abdc7e867:g:kdMAAOSwM7Fcqz8d Using it as in the pic, you are working on the small base area. If you turn the whole lot around as if you are looking at the back and then turn the screen and scope around to face you, you are not restricted to working on that small base. At that though it will be top heavy so you need to place a counter balance weight on the little base to stop it falling over. I also work off a piece of yellow card marked with datum lines so I can focus the scope and place tiny parts exactly in the spot under the scope. If that doesn't help I'll have to set it up and post a pic. (Nearly forgot to add the pics, video and battery life are excellent. Reckon my battery lasts about 6 hours)
×
×
  • Create New...