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Cmmb8519 last won the day on January 7 2015

Cmmb8519 had the most liked content!

About Cmmb8519

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  1. Are you putting the pallet fork upside down? Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  2. Pallet fork straightened and the movement is now running like it gained a new life!!! All fixed! Thanks for all your help and big special thank you to Frank! Great support from all of you always. Great to keep learning given I only do this as an hobby. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  3. Spot on! See more photos below. I will try my luck tomorrow and try to put it straight and will let you know. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks all I was able to easily R/R the hair spring to move the impulse jewel to the right position. In fact the collet was a bit lose which might explain the 180 degrees rotation. Any advise on how to tidght up the collet? The next issue now is that I'm starting to have the feeling that someone mixed parts here from other clock. It does not seem to be enough space between the impulse jewel and the pallet fork. On the rotation to the left the Jewell pin is able to go out of the plallet fork, but when goes right the jewell pin gets stuck in the fork slot and cannot go out, which might be causing the collet to rotate in the balance staff. Any experience before in similar situation? Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  5. Here you go. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks very much. I know how to remove the hair spring and reposition it, but don't know how to reposition the roler. I beleive it is time to buy the right horotec tool to do it. Which procedure will be less risky to damage it? Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  7. Hi all Just finishing service of a nice Buren fireside clock movement. When assembling the balance wheel noticed that the jewel (at resting position) is at the opposite side of the pallet fork (red circle on the photo) . Is there any reason for this on this old movements? To create some pressure on the balance spring? This clock was not working and for the locks of it before cleaning, I beleive it did not have a service for more than 20 years. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  8. Hi all Just finished service of a EB8800. This is the most basic version of it, with only one jewel in the hairspring pivots. I would usually not lubrificate the pallet fork pivots (and did not on this one) given there is no friction, but since this one is metal on metal, should apply a bit of 9010 to the pivot ends of the pallet fork? Many thanks Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks The wheel comes out without removing the fixed bridge. All good now. Thanks again. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  10. Hi all First time servicing an old EB 8080. Any idea if I should be removing this wheel before putting in the cleaning machine? It is supported by the bridge in the picture attached, which is pressured assembled against the main plate. I'm tempted to put it as is in the cleaning machine, but just wonder if there is a different procedure. Thanks Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  11. Hi all, Six months ago I finally took by hobby to the next level and was able to service my Omega Seamaster Professional, valjoux 7750 based movement. I did invest quite a lot on learning how to service the movement and get the right tools and lubrification, and this went very well. The movement is performing over 300° and with zero beat error. But I did not invest on getting the right tools for case closing and water proof test and, as a result, after washing my watch under the tap a couple of days ago I was surprised a couple of hours later with some humidity inside the crystal. I opened the watch straight away and cleaned some small traces of water on the dial and crystal. Question to the group: given that it seemed to be a very small amount of water which I'm not able to find any traces now, would it be enought to leave the watch outside the case for a couple of days to dry out? Or just get to it and make a full service again? Many thanks Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks. Here you go. See attached. There are no marks on the plate under the balance or any other marks. Quality seems fairly good. There are 20+ jewels on it. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  13. Hi all, Wife has this fake Daytona that she loves and has been running for 8 years. I decided to give it a service. Tuff customer! Most probable a dummy question, but any idea of what movement it is (see photos)? Any chance I can find a tech spec of it? Thanks! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  14. Hi everyone Just bought by mistake 20ml of Moebius 8213 breaking grease. It seems more fit for brass barrels and has a strong break effect. Do you think in smalk quatities can be used as breaking grease for stainless stell barrels? Should work but I'm affraid thst yhe breaking effect can be too big and break the mainspring. Thoughts? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  15. All sorted and working fine. Thanks very much for all the great ideas and changeling thinking. At the end it was only the oiling of the spheres of the bearing that was creating atriction and stopping the oscilating weight to move with short and slow movements. The 4 small drops of 9010 that I put after assembly were causing this. After a good cleaning and assembly the bearing without lub it is charging the mainspring well. Thanks again!!! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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