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harrison72

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About harrison72

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    Member
  • Birthday 08/02/1942

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Wales
  • Interests
    aeromodeling,motorbikes(Velocette),watches and clocks,photography

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  1. sorry, confusion is my fault, I should have typed 8401 not 8405. There are several watches with "Landeron 48" movements for sale on Ebay in the USA, some have "your" minute recording jumper (8270a*) and some with 8270 like mine. The Landeron service book lists parts with an asterisk as not interchangeable.
  2. Hello Endeavor, I thought your movement might be a Landeron 47 as your minute recording jumper seems to be non adjustable. However the cut away on the balance cock shows it to be a 48, apparently some of the early 48's had the non adjustable jumper, the later one is part 8270. There was some correspondence (from the excellent Dr Ranfft in Germany) as to the differences between 48's and 47's on the watchuseek forum in 2008. I think the movement is stamped under the balance on the main plate, but I forgot to photo it. Be careful with the jumper its is easily bent and ruined, just don't ask how I know. It looks like the driving wheel (8060) is missing as is the eccentric screw 8405 and of course the chrono pushers. You can see the parts mentioned in the drawings I sent earlier. My Orator watch is identifyable only by the name on the dial, yours may be harder to trace, but someone might know how to pin point the brand. The Landeron 48 movement was made from 1937-1970, as many as 3.5 million units (per Dr R) so was very popular. Mine runs very nicely and keeps good time, the pusher at 2 o'clock starts the chrono ,the pusher at 4 o'clock stops it and another push on the same button zeros the centre secs. and recording minutes.
  3. thanks for the info BeyondWorld. Any similar tips from anyone welcome, we might end up with a practical guide. I'm still a bit baffled by the choice, looking at the Sternkreuz range, they do at least 16 series of types often with multiple choices in each type. The specials (ie Rolex) are less trouble as they are self selecting. A typical 60's swiss watch with a recessed bezel into which the glass fits do you use a "snap in "acrylic, or mineral glass? Do you measure the watch recess diameter and add some amount to the glass to make it stay in place? if so how much excess? Is it the same for acrylic and mineral glass? I made an error recently ordering a glass for a pocket watch, 0.2mm over size, spent about an hour carefully reducing it to fit ,then found the outer case wouldn't close because the glass was too high!
  4. Hello all, over the past 3 years, with Mark's videos as inspiration I have managed to save several watches from the bedroom drawer to being worn by their owners. Nearly all have benefitted by fitting a new crystal. No problem with a named watch ( like say a Tissot Seastar 7) but not so easy for a 1900's pocket watch, or an obsolete watch with no spares support. Since this is a topic which concerns nearly all of us, is their a guide to crystal selection particularly detailing the type of edge required to fit the bezel/case/tension ring and the use or not of cement to secure the crystal, the choice between acrylic or glass, hi/low dome, thickness etc?
  5. spot on, well deduced. Its not the original stem and only holding on 3 turns to the crown when properly adjusted for depth, now held with Loctite. There was a lot of "felt" around the tube also stopping the stem pushing home. Looking at my fuzzy photo I had a better look with a microscope and found Ronda and 1032, this movement is currently listed by Cousins for about £12 (less vat & pp), might be cheaper to buy one rather than replace the stem! Makes you think about "designer" watch prices and what's inside them. I'm still interested in the interchangability of quartz movements, are the Chinese ones copies of Swiss types or are they all different?
  6. Hello, a friend's daughter has a Gucci 100l quartz watch which is running erratically. Inspection of the movement shows the stem removal button looks a bit damaged, and I can't remove the stem, but it will probably come out with a bit of fiddling (via the arrowed hole?). When the stem is pushed in for normal running it doesn't fully disengage the hands and the watch may or may not run. I don't know much about quartz movements but I see hundreds of them in the Cousins catalogue usually quite cheap. Is there a system of reference that allows a movement to be replaced by a new one of the same size, hand fitting etc? The movement may be a YA100503 as this is quoted for similar Gucci watches.Photo of the movement attched, I can't see any numbers.
  7. thanks for all those replies, very useful.The watch appears to be working correctly now. One thing I haden't noticed was the minute recording hand may have been dragging on the dial which left the minute runner spring (which is very weak) difficult to setup as Geo recommended. My fault, easy to overlook the obvious! Once the hand was bent up there was a chance to set things right. The minute runner spring being on an eccentric will move in 4 directions up and down tension and forwards/backwards. Its not mentioned anywhere but I think the forward/backward adjustment can be made to get a tooth on the sliding wheel (8100) to point to the watch centre which makes the depth engagement of the dart on the chronograph runner more effective. There seems to be enough free motion on the minute recording wheel when zeroed to allow for this. The joseph book makes a nice read for us nerds, and didn't Pierre make a nice job of his watch, once again many thanks,
  8. Hi after my recent posts about dial refinishing , I started to wear the Orator watch with a Landeron 48 movement. I have a copy (from Cousins) of the Landeron 48 guide for watch repairers. Its not clear to me how to acheive the correct set up for the various eccentrics, which I was careful not to move, but in an old watch may not have been right anyway. I have attached some of the pictures to help. The minute recording hand sometimes moves when the start button of the chrono is pressed. This maybe caused by the hammer (8219) touching the minute heart as the hammer retracts from the reset position. I can't see how to adjust the hammer to stop it touching the heart, which it does,there is a slight wear mark on the hammer. The repair guide also refers to the chronograph runner being blocked, not clear what that means. When the stop button is pressed should something lock the chronograph wheel, I notice it seems quite free when stopped? Any advice would be appreciated.
  9. Hi All, International Dial contacted me 2 weeks ago to say the dial was done and they would post after payment (Paypal).It arrived today and looks good (see attached). I chose to have a "generic" finish similar to the original but not an exact copy, but with the ORATOR name, 17 Rubis, swiss made and antimagnetic printed. The hands are the elegant originals, a bit pitted. I finished the chrono hands in orange as I found them a bit confusing, as are the pushers, the start is at 1400, stop at 1600 and return at 1600, slightly non intuitive. The watch has a Landeron 48 movement and is keeping good time, its gone from a basket case to nice watch, happy ending I think.
  10. Thanks Bob, if you do get in touch with them maybe you could let me know. I have a dial with them, regards
  11. Hello, I have been in contact with a Mr Robert Miller of the above co. with regard to refinishing a dial. I have been unable to contact him since 21.10.15, an answer phone takes a message but no response. Has anyone heard anything that might explain this? Up to the date mentioned contact had been extemely good. regards
  12. Well, here's a suprise. I held a small compass over the watch and got a big movement, holding it over the balance wheel the compass started to oscillate with the balance! I guess I'll have to sort that out first, thanks for help and suggestions so far,
  13. Hi Bob, I just listened to the watch (instead of the synthesised sound from the Chronograph). When its horizontal dial up or down it has a tick and a ringing note, when vertical the sound is muddy with lots of odd noises, so worn pivots, worn jewels are possible. Presumably removing the two screw on the balance cock and the base plate will free the jewels.Are jewels available? I have attached a photos
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