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Found 17 results

  1. So there is this timex automatic i found online from a reputable seller. I cant find much about it anywhere. Ive been looking for a timex automatic but already have a few watches that look like the marlin. This one is a little different and i like it. Any info would be greatly appreciated
  2. Hello everybody,I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos. Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it. Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement. Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling. But the biggest problems are this. Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat Stay tuned
  3. Miyota Automatic Service - "Three Screws to Rule Them All" Now for something completely different, a Japanese Automatic from Miyota. This is a budget driver's watch from a fashion brand called Scorpion, and I had no idea what I'd find when I removed the caseback :huh: Whatever! I just wanna work on watch movements, increase my knowledge, and the repertoire of movements I've had experience with. It's also a blessing to post these to help people with reference photos and walkthrough of various movements. When put on the timegrapher, it was quickly obvious that this movement was not running well at all. Extremely low amplitude, high beat error, and a graph that looks like the pepper in your mash potatoes :P Well, it happened to be a Miyota Automatic Movement ... I have no idea of the caliber, as there are no stampings on any of the plate ... beside the brand name. Once removed from the case, I pulled the Hands... ...and then the Dial. After that, I flipped it over and removed the oscillating weight to get a better look at the movement itself. Notice anything scary about this already?? There are only 3 screws holding the complete movement together!! :o Ack!! Visions of the Seiko 5J22A Kinetic "Auto Relay" , with it's 9 pivot gear train plate flashed before my eyes!! This was NOT going to be fun putting back together :P But I do so love a challenge. As per usual, I removed the tension from the Mainspring, and removed the Balance and Fork. Note: The red arrow is pointing to a very thin spring which you pull back to disengage the Click. Here's a closer reference photo of it after I'd pulled the plate off So as the title says ... Three Screws to Rule Them All .... Bam! The whole movement has to be located into ONE plate, that's only held by three screws ... this is not Rolex quality gentlemen ^_^ After tipping the movement up-side-down and telling the complete movement fall onto the desk (just kidding), you are left with only the Centre Wheel. Once the Centre Wheel Bridge was removed, the fault with the movement running so badly came to light ... RUST on the lower piviot! Rust also on the Pinion Over to the Calendar and Keyless Work ... looking way over complicated for a simple Date Wheel, as all the springs are there for a day complications as well; minus just the Day Wheel :( ... Gotta love cheap movements. Reference photos of the Keyless Work. One last thing to note with this movement. The setting lever is riveted into the Main Plate, so it's not able to be removed. Well this little gem is in the Watch Cleaner, and I've got a few weekend chores to do, so I'll put it back together tonight and post the results later. Hope you enjoyed this write-up, and got a few giggles out of it as well :)
  4. Hello. I recently serviced a PUW 1561 automatic movement. This was my first time servicing automatic movement and I am not confident on lubricating barrel wall. I purchased Moebius 8217, breaking grease for the barrel wall. The whole service was a quite long process for me so I will just get to my point. On the cleaned barrel wall, I applied thin layer of 8217 thinking that too much would not do any good. Then I placed the mainspring and applied 3 drops of Moebius 8200 before closed the barrel cap. After I had assembled the watch, I tried winding it. It wound well but I could hear the mainspring slip in side the barrel when I felt some tension on the crown as I was winding. I know that automatic mainspring slips along the barrel wheel but never experienced such 'obvious' slipping sound. I guess the timegrapher tells that service was not that bad but I just don't feel right when hand winding the watch. Is it something wrong in the barrel? May be I should have applied the 8217 more thicker? Thanks for always helping me out.
  5. Hi all, I'm new here, but have been watching the videos on YouTube for a while now, and used them to educate myself on the nature of mechanical watches. Thanks for the great videos Mark! You helped take the mystery and fear out of these works of art.
  6. Hi, I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary? https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://forum.watch.ru/showthread.php%3Fp%3D5196915&prev=search ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
  7. Hi all I just recently finished servicing two Omega Speedmaster Reduced (equipped with the ETA 2892-A2 coupled with chrono module Dubois Dépraz 2020) for a couple of friends and both watches are having the same issue. I'm an amateur and just service watches for family and friends. The automatic work is not fully winding the movement and both watches are stopping after 6 days of use. Very curious that the two watches are showing exactly the same behavior!! I have tried everything and I'm not being able to get the automatic work to wind the watches for long period of time without the need to give it a manual wind. What else can I do? People wearing the watches are quite active and don't have the same issue with other automatic watches. See below a measure of the timegrapher for 6 days of wearing the watch without manual winding (except for first day): Rate Amplitude Day 1 (full manual winding) +20 299 Day 2 +13 280 Day 3 +7 261 Day 4 -23 238 Day 5 -12 211 Day 6 Stopped Some info regarding the service: - All parts were carefully washed and carefully oiled as per ETA technical chart - Replaced mainspring with new one ordered from Cousins (GR25341X). I measured both new and old mainsprings and they are they are the same - Replaced reversing wheel with new one ordered from Cousins - Checked the oscillating weight and bearing and all seems fine. There is not looseness and it all seems very aligned and in place - Oiled the oscillating weight bearing with 4 very small drops of Moebius 9010 on 4 of the metal spheres (don't have much experience on this one, hope it is ok) - All the automatic work seems to work perfectly when I manually tested the rotation of the oscillating weight with the movement out of the case Only thing I did not replace yet is the bearing of the oscillating weight. I'm reluctant to do so since current one seems to be just fine and I don't to want spend money for a part that seems to be just fine. What else can I do? Many thanks
  8. Hey guys need some advice and a talk about my watch, actually it is my dad's and want to repair and gift him on his birthday,as I am falling a little short on money I hope I could fix this myself!
  9. Hello! My first question / project as a new member: I have a watch with a Ronda 4438, or perhaps 4439 automatic movement. The rotor has considerable play due to wear. I have been unsuccessful at finding information about the proper rotor removal method. Referring to the attached photo - I have identified the two stake marks at the rotor hub, but I do not see any retaining components or clips (perhaps the component that I marked with arrow?). Any guidance would be much appreciated! Cheers, Neil
  10. Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you. I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches. From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here. The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem. The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in. There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position. Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement. Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch? Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good. So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
  11. Hi watch lovers <3 i got a Robisi automatic watch. It accidentally fell down on the floor and its glass got detached which i attached again but after some time i realised that the Synthetic ruby gem was missing from it. Therefore it lost its balance and it stops time to time. How do i fix this?
  12. Good day all, this is my first post so please excuse my limited knowledge of watches and repairing them. I have a Seiko 5 model number snk805 that I recently bought overseas that has stopped working. It seems like the watch is not being charged even though the self winding weight is spinning as normal. The watch is still on warranty but since i bought it overseas it would be difficult to have shipped back. Basically what I would like to know is if it is worth attempting to fix it myself or would it better to take it to someone trained. I do have some experience with working with watches but i have never attempted to fix an automatic mechanism. Thanks for all the help.
  13. Hello, I have a similar problem like this topic: but my watch is a Maurice Lacroix PT 6158. It is a automatic watch. and recently my problem seems worse. I tried to wind the crown towards 12 more than 30, but it doesn't help, and make the thing worse, the watch stop moving immediately, until i shake the watch, and it start moving a little bit. and stop again. (The watch used to be really good, and can hold for 2 days straight) Like the other guy, i am using it regularly from 7am - 10pm. Every morning I wind the crown 5-6x to make it works until noon. and sometimes it does not working. the only things i could notice: 1. the circle movement (I don't know what is it called) that i can see on the back side of the watch move really slow. not as fast as it used to be. (I am using it for more than 4 years now). 2. if i put the watch down with diagonal position: the crown touch the table, the watch will be able to hold for about 3-6 hours. IF, i put the watch on the table, and the crown does not touch the table (again, diagonal) it will take less than 1 hour until the watch stop. IF i put the watch down (Horizontally), the crystal touch the table. the watch will stop move immediately or in less than 1 minute. Can anyone help advise me what I should do? i wonder if it could cost so much to repair it? or just need some oiling things? Thank you so much.
  14. Hi All, I’m a Lemania collector and as a hobby I try to service some watches myself. I still have a lot to learn and currently i’m a bit stuck with finding a decent main spring for a Lemania cal 3600 (automatic). Here’s my problem: I ended up with 2 different specifications for a Lemania 3600 mainspring based on the following pictures (see attach). Maybe the Marco one is less reliable because it has a hand written specification instead of a printed one….? Now, there is a wide variety of auto mainsprings available here: http://www.ofrei.com/page_112.html and here: https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/mainsprings-by-size-watch-pocket The thing is that they all differ on at least one of the specs. I can imagine that the width is crucial, otherwise it will just not fit, but other things like length, is some margin allowed there? For example instead of 12,5 inch is 12 or 13 inch also ok? If i have to choose, which specifications are more important, for example strength is more important then length,..…? Would be nice if somebody could give a good hint to a mainspring to would fit in a cal 3600 .… Thanks! Gert
  15. The oscillator, or something, in my automatic wrist watch seems to be greatly affected by outside temperature (summer vs winter). It seems to run fast in the summer, and even faster in winter (The manufacturer said they could adjust it). Q: Is this difference with temperature normal/possible? and Q: What would cause this? [a poor choice of hair spring material (stiffer in cold = higher rate)??? a poor choice in lubricant???] Thoughts? As an Engineer, I like to understand causes and effects. As far as my watch is concerned, I will be surprised if there is a year round fix. -E-
  16. I just purchased a Waltham Selfwinding watch marked B-251K on the inside of the case back. First of all, it is marked 25 Jewel on the face and 17 Jewel on the rotor, which I found odd but its nothing I haven't seen before, and that's where the trouble started. The watch runs, and runs very well. However, the rotor is wobbly and loose that it contacts the balance wheel at times in its travel. The rotor does not attach with a screw, but rather with a sort of sliding clip. I am no watch repairman, more of a tinkerer who has opened and successfully repaired and maintained a watch or two in my life. I'm beginning to think this might be the wrong rotor, but it appears to be a perfect match, even drops in perfectly, but it is so loose it practically falls out. Ideas anyone?
  17. Hi guys, today I was given a TAHA watch with an automatic movement that has seen far better day's and for the life of me I can not find any reference to the make at all, the watch looks old , its in a 9crt gold plated case, no strap, there is what looks like that the Acriclic crystal has melted a bit, which has let in damp causing the face to rust up a bit. Can anyone help me find out a little history of a TAHA watch?
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