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About JayS

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  1. Nice piece. Those acrylic crystals actually polish up very well with various grades of sandpaper and polishing compound...
  2. Since it looks like John's right about the crystal needing to come off to even clean up the face, I think there's not much I can do here other than recommend someone to service it. Even my time polishing the crystal may be wasted since he may opt for a new/correct one. This one sits too high.
  3. Lining up all the pins (5), the barrel gear, the winding bridge and the hair-spring all at ONCE when reassembling is a nightmare experience for me...
  4. I mentioned to a friend that I'd been tinkering (mostly unsuccessfully) with watches (all Timex #31 movements) and he offered me the chance to try and fix his father's watch, which is a Sarcar from the late fifties. Nasty band missing a buckle. All kinds of crumbly blue-green patina/corrosion. Crystal (doesn't seem original) pretty well scratched up. After cleaning the band with saddle soap and leather restorer, polishing the crystal, and scraping as much crud off the case as I could, I opened it up to find quite a pretty interior, though something way beyond anything I've ever opened up. Seems like the mainspring is taking a load, but nothing is moving. From the looks of it, I think I can pop the stem out and remove the movement, allowing access to clean the face, but I'm not sure if I should even begin anything more. The case cover has some dates on it, with the most recent service looking to be from '68 (his father died when he was very young and he's probably never had the watch serviced himself). My comfort level says just clean everything up and point him in the direction of getting it serviced. But another part of me is thinking that going a few screws deep isn't going to hurt anything and I may learn something in the process. Just document along the way. It's not like my Timex where I could lose a piece and have a back-up...
  5. I've just put a '67 Timex Viscount auto back together and I'm having a strange problem where the hour hand doesn't keep up to the minute hand (noticing this while setting the watch) and then it bolts ahead an hour or more very quickly. I've had to adjust the lay of the minute and second hands because they were rubbing every once in a while and stopping time. Perhaps I pushed the hour hand down and it's rubbing on the face now? I have to open it up again anyway as my micro-adjustments of the minute hand aren't keeping it away from the second hand consistently. It could just be that I need to make sure everything is getting clearance a little more closely or could it be something with the way the hour wheel and cannon pinion assembly are meshing?
  6. In the process of trying/learning to get my Dad's old Timex up and running (again), I've gone through several movements to perfect the art of hairspring destruction. Using the face from my Dad's watch and the best hands/case of the lot, I was able to get a very clean working version. I chose my Dad's face because it has a warmer, champagne-like tint to it, while the others were more silver. The champagne contrasts nicely with the plated case and hands. The crystal also polished up very nicely. Hoping to cherry-up the others with working guts in the future. - j
  7. I've been trying to assemble this pin-sandwich and the most frustrating part has been keeping the winding bridge and winding ratchet wheel lock washer all together and staying in place while I lower the dial plate assembly onto it. I've tried keeping the stem in there to hold it all together, but that has its own problems with leverage and popping them out. Could I apply a little grease or oil to these 3 parts so they'd hold together as 1 piece? That would be a helpful start. Would I be better off popping the winding ratchet wheel assembly and lock washer off and assemble with the movement plate on top? It seems I might have less chance of damaging the hairspring that way... Any tips (besides practice, practice, practice!) would be appreciated. I go into paralysis every time I reassemble these movements! - j
  8. I did clamp an old dremel tool to my workbench and then clamped the container with the lighter fluid so that it was resting on it. At one of the higher RPMs, the fluid was filled with tons of tiny, crisscrossing waves with little droplets bouncing all over the top. Not sure if it qualified as ultrasonic, but there was a hole lot of shaking going on...
  9. The pallet appears to lie in line. What I am noticing is that the balance wheel is never turning enough to release the roller pin and passing hollow from the pallet. It's more or less just twitching back and forth...
  10. I don't have anything to time the watches properly. The best I can do is video the balance wheel and estimate how much of an arc it's sweeping. I didn't take this one apart to clean, but just gave it a lighter fluid bath. Didn't want to mess with it too much.
  11. Thank you! I was able to hunt that down, otherwise I could never have screwed up as many watches as I have...
  12. Been struggling through a number of #31 movements. This particular one was bought as a "running" watch, but it's been anemic from the start with some 80° of amplitude, just no momentum at all. I've cleaned it, oiled it, checked it and repeated some 3 times now, with nothing seeming to help. One thing I've noticed is that the unlubricated movement always sticks hard on the trailing palette pin. Give the pin or balance wheel a flick and the escapement wheel kicks the first pin out easily and then hangs on the 2nd. I've lubed the pins before (which is a bit tough) and this (along with other general oiling) gets it going with the poor amplitude, but never for long. Could the pin be bent in towards the wheel? Doesn't look it. Hairspring seems nicely shaped. I've lubed both pivots of the balance shaft and attempted to remove end-shake, but that adjustable brass pivot is getting pretty mauled. I'm really trying to avoid taking this movement apart completely. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  13. And... the lower collar (and hairspring) slipped off, which is good because if it did it made it easier to push the balance staff down to a better depth (using the pin pusher) and then eventually sliding it back on. Didn't look like I messed up the spring and everything seems aligned right. Now I just need to put it back together...
  14. Upon closer inspection, what's going on is this – The entire pin has slipped:
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