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Found 48 results

  1. I wish I had more projects to report on but things have really bogged down lately as I continue to bite of more than I can chew. I'm in the middle of three long term projects (the Favre Leuba Bivouac going on year three) and am running short of workbench space. I'm in the middle of changing out the engine in my wife's Mini Cooper too (that's another story but if you own a Mini- be sure and replace the timing chain guides!) and that has really eaten into my "fun time". I thought I'd bring this one to the board for comments before I'm underwater- it's an old Gallet from the 60's. Do you think it can be salvaged? We clearly have some water damaged however, the seconds hand will move if the crown is given a little pressure. Water entered in through the chronograph buttons and the pendant tube. I haven't tried depressing the buttons- I think that would just lead to bits snapping and rust moving about. I'll need a new stem for sure... The dial actually looks quite good. I wonder what it looks like underneath though... It's not terrible, but it's not great either. Most of the rust damage is concentrated in the keyless works. There's a bit of damage to the hour recording mechanism... That's as far as I've gotten thus far. The screw for the Operating Lever is rusted tight and is now being treated with a bit of penetrating oil. Once removed I can pull the second pusher button out and remove the movement from the case. I'll know the full extent of the damage once it's in a pile of bits and pieces. This is an Excelsior Park EP40-68 movement. I've wanted to work on one of these for quite a while but couldn't afford a proper working piece. Excelsior Park parts are difficult to source though so I may not be able to bring this one back to life.
  2. Hello guys.. Why my seiko speedtimer 7015 chronograph run smoothly when its day(morning till evening) But its stop and heavy when its time to changing the day date,whats the problem and how to fix it.. Thankyiuu
  3. First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/ Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ). The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. The click spring. D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in. The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window). Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. Fly back lever goes in with some D5. Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel! At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. The hammer cam jumper. Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. The spring. 9501 for the contact point. Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again! The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in. Hour wheel with D5. The dial rest with its 3 screws. The date indicator. The date indicator driving wheel with some D5. The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long. The guard with 2 screws. Finally the spring. The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side. While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up. Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12. Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic. New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work. The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are. Thank you for watching.
  4. I recently acquired an Omega Speedmaster automatic from the 1970's that has the Omega 1045 / Lemania 5100 movement inside. Long story short- the previous owner tried to service it and made a mess instead. I've managed to source all the parts I think I need except one for the automatic works- the Stop Spring (part no. 1414). This looks like a part I may be able to fabricate but if the original is available I would prefer that. Unfortunately I've come up empty with my usual suppliers. Cousins is the one one who may have it, but it's Restricted which I suppose means you need to be an Omega authorized technician (which I naturally am not) to purchase. If anyone has a lead to follow I would be most grateful for your assistance. This piece is a proper mess right now but I think I'm close to bringing it back from the dead.
  5. I received this really nice Seiko 7T42-6A00 to service and the description was that the timer (yes, this particular 7Txx model has a timer also) was not working. After first inspection, actually I noticed that it had some more issues, among which the quickdate that was not working. I made a video presentation of this watch: I decided to strip down completely the movement since it apparently had never being serviced. A movement swap was just not an option... Opening the case no sign of damage was visible, although I did notice some very fine white dust, probably some acid liquid that had dried out. Removing the movement from the case, and inspecting it, showed indeed traces of dried up acid:
  6. Hello! Could anyone help me with some more detailed information (service sheet, manual, etc) for a russian chronograph Molnija 81322? It was (and still is, from my knowledge) used in MIG 21 airplanes. Two links that I've found: http://www.abbeyclock.com/photos/mig.html http://www.cockpitclock.com/MOLNIA%2081322.html Thank you, Bogdan
  7. This Breitling is quite badly rusted and needs to be serviced, de-rusted and parts need to be replaced. See my method of doing this job. Available to our Patrons in resolutions up to HD 720p
  8. From the album: On the Workbench

    Here's a look at the finished product. The new luminous paint has been applied with a light tint to give it an aged appearance which compliments the dial. The hour and minute hands have been painted with the same batch to ensure a proper match. They'll be affixed to the movement once the paint has cured for several days.
  9. From the album: On the Workbench

    The old paint has been removed to review the markings underneath. The old luminous paint came away quite easily with a bit of pegwood.
  10. From the album: On the Workbench

    An extreme close-up of the 12 o'clock marker reveals the level of degradation to the luminous paint. I'll remove the old paint using pegwood and elbow grease and replace it with new luminous compound.
  11. From the album: On the Workbench

    Here's the dial from a Navitimer project I'm working on. The luminous paint has flaked away from the seven and eight o'clock markers and the remaining paint has turned black from exposure to moisture. It's quite unsightly.
  12. From the album: On the Workbench

    Today I got to play with the Jacot tool for the first time. The pivots of the escape wheel, then fourth wheel (pictured) were burnished resulting in a bit more amplitude and a nice linear reading on the timegrapher.
  13. From the album: On the Workbench

    The replacement pusher has been cut and filed carefully to fit the case. This watch is a Sprint chronograph from the 1940's. The movement is a Venus 170 and the watch was received with about half the pieces missing. It's been coming together for a year now. The pusher button was cut from a thick brass washer with a jeweler's saw. Lots of filing and careful measurements followed resulting in a button that's a good fit to the case. Eventually the button will be sent with the case for replating.
  14. From the album: On the Workbench

    Here we have the one existing chronograph pusher button which is being used for a template to fabricate a replacement. The replacement is being fabricated from a thick brass washer. The existing button has been glued to the brass as an easy way to guide the jeweler's saw.
  15. I just got my grandfathers Gucci 9300 Chronograph and I installed 2 new batteries. However, I cant seem to get the chronograph function to work properly and I cannot find any manual to help me get the watch back in working order. Any advice would be much appreciated
  16. Hi there, I've noticed that mostly analogue watches are discussed on this forum so hopefully posting about a digital watch is okay. I bought this M929 from a thrift store for $3 the other day in a non-working condition. After opening it for the first time, it was evident that a battery had leaked at some point - there was quite a bit of corrosive material everywhere. After giving it quite the clean using vinegar for the batteries crap and isopropyl alcohol for everything else, the backlight was again functioning, however, the LCD was not. There appears to be some sort of potentiometer on the back of the main module, although this looks exactly the same as the screws that held in a back metal plate so I stupidly rotated it for a while before I realised it wasn't a screw. I've roughly rotated it back using a reference photo I took before I dismantled it (below) but the best I can get is a very dim set of numbers that flash and are only visible if directly under a light and viewed from an extreme angle - and even then, it does this randomly. I'm not sure if the pot is even for the LCD, though. I've also checked all the other components on the board with a multimeter and there seems to be continuity at least, although measuring the pot leads to no usable number of ohms. Here's a bunch of photos I took. Hopefully, they can be helpful. Any help with the repair will be greatly appreciated. Here is what the watch looked like on first opening. You can see green/blue muck everywhere. Here you can see the extent of the corrosion on the buttons. This was even holding some of them in place. Vinegar made short work of it, however. A close up of the main module before disassembly. The flipside of the module. Corrosion was bad here too More disassembly and after cleaning Otherside. Note the pot at the bottom LCD, reflector and contact transfer things Close up of the LCD The plastic casing cleaned. There is still a bit of corrosion on those contacts but that is as much as I could remove. The flipside Reassembled after cleaning. Accidentally added some scratches from the screwdriver slipping, though. Whoops. Flipside The corrosion had actually eaten into the watches metal. Luckily the buttons were fine after being cleaned. The backlight.
  17. If anyone has happened to work on a Pierce chronograph with a waterproof case, I could use a little help. I'm in the middle of another Pierce chronograph restoration and this is the first I've had with a waterproof case. The case is missing the pusher buttons and stem tube, but I can see that the holes for all three are threaded. The holes for the pusher tubes have a small red rubber gasket inside and behind it there appears to be a compression spring. The hole for the stem also has a rubber gasket which is secured with a threaded ring. This is the first time I've encountered a waterproof case by Pierce and I'd like to return the watch to as close as possible the original specifications. The problem is that I don't have the pushers or stem and I do not understand how they were engineered. Naturally I can fit off the shelf replacements but I would like that to be Plan B. If anyone has any prior experience with Pierce's odd case please feel free to chime in. They had odd solutions to many challenges an I'm interested in finding out how they made their waterproof chronograph.
  18. From the album: On the Workbench

    The movement has been cleaned and packed up for the time being. I have a few other projects which have priority and this movement will require some funds to get it back to spec. Right now I know for certain it will require a replacement escape wheel, click spring, and jewel for the forth wheel. I'm looking forward to getting back to it though.
  19. RyMoeller

    UG 285 Cleaned

    From the album: On the Workbench

    The bits and pieces of the movement have returned from the cleaner looking quite a bit better than before. I love the gold plating that UG used for these movements- so much more pizazz than the standard silver plate.
  20. From the album: On the Workbench

    Opening the barrel revealed an old blued steel mainspring. I don't think this movement has been cleaned and serviced in many decades.
  21. From the album: On the Workbench

    Close up of the click and spring. Unfortunately the click spring has broken. More unfortunate is the cost of replacement- around 90 USD! Still I like the fact that UG used a machined spring as opposed to a wire spring.
  22. From the album: On the Workbench

    Here we can see the crown wheel and click for the winding mechanism. Like a Valjoux 23 movement, they are hidden beneath the top plate.
  23. RyMoeller

    UG 285 Gear Train

    From the album: On the Workbench

    Removal of the top plate reveals the gear train. The ratchet wheel has been contacting the top plate which may suggest the bearings for the barrel are shot.
  24. From the album: On the Workbench

    The malfunction of this movement was traced to the escape wheel whose pivots are not sitting within the jeweled bushings. I assumed a pivot was broken but further inspection revealed they are just too short- perhaps the previous owner installed the wrong escape wheel?
  25. From the album: On the Workbench

    Since the movement does not have shock protection, the balance must be removed in order to clean and oil the cap stone. Oddly, the regulator locks in the hairspring even though the hairspring has an overcoil. In order to free the hairspring from the regulator, a small oiler is pushed through the hole on the side of the block and turned clockwise.
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