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A friend of mine has a montblanc 4810 502 watch. He sent me some photos. I have put that photo below. (indistinct). I want to know if this is an original montblanc. He said that there are several errors here and they need to be repaired. But is there a way to confirm whether it is original or fake? Need expert advice before I buy this.
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Does anyone have an operating lever for a Valjoux 7733 movement for a reasonable price? Because I tried ebay. But the shipping fee is higher than the bond amount.
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First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/ Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ). The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. The click spring. D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in. The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window). Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. Fly back lever goes in with some D5. Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel! At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. The hammer cam jumper. Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. The spring. 9501 for the contact point. Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again! The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in. Hour wheel with D5. The dial rest with its 3 screws. The date indicator. The date indicator driving wheel with some D5. The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long. The guard with 2 screws. Finally the spring. The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side. While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up. Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12. Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic. New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work. The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are. Thank you for watching.
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My first time servicing a 7758. Started to open the mainspring arbor and was surprised to find what appears to be a small gear affixed (permanently?) to the bottom end of the arbor. Feels like some kind of Teflon material. I assume it drives the moon phase wheel? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Not sure how to proceed since if it isn't supposed to be removed from the arbor I'm not sure how to deal with the spring.
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Hello, everybody. I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734. As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time. I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons. Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well. Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :) As a result, such a result came before us. Thank you Taskin https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKH6yTKUfpM
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Hello everyone. I have a really sad story and I am a complete amateur. I am a machinist for a living so I thought I would give a crack at making a frankenwatch, however it did not go as planned and now I have a movement with subdials that don’t work and a whole lot of parts and money invested and I don’t know what to do. I need the help of a professional. The donor movement was a NOS, new old stock, and was running perfectly, however I messed up almost everything attempting to make this watch. I will happily ship all of the parts needed to complete this watch and pay for any repair that need to be made and for the return shipping. I need the help of a professional how can repair and assemble the watch with the parts and return it to me. I will pay for everything, the labor, replacement parts, return shipping, I just need someone’s help. Details about the project: movement: valjoux 7733 dial: vintage NOS angelus chronograph dial case: custom machined case crystal: plexiglass
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Hello, I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch. 1) Open the wathc case 2) removed rotor 3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out) 4) removed the movement from the case 5) put movment to movement holder 6) removed hands 7) removed dial 8) put new dial 9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all.. Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before.. Thank you for any ideas. Mickey
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Hi everyone! I'm J from USA. Could anyone please help and instruct me on the best way to set my Valjoux 72C? I have a Ref 6036 and don't want to ruin it! Thanks in advance!
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Hi everyone, Thanks in advance for your patience- novice here! The chronograph function on this 7730 movement starts fine but doesn't stop reliably (If and when the operating lever does engage the stop, the reset works great, however). When I open up the movement case back, I see that operating lever (blue arrow on the annotated stock picture) has a bit of play and moves around, such that if I do engage the operating lever, i.e., begin the chronograph, and then gently push the reset button , the reset lever (red arrow in diagram) 'nudges' the operating lever back into the correct position, so that when pressed, it does stop the chronograph (move the cam). I should also note that the tab/spring (where the green arrow points) is a bit deformed on my movement and doesn't exactly touch the screw. Perhaps this is a contributing factor? I can't seem to figure out how to resolve this problem. Does anyone have any thoughts? Many thanks, M
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valjoux7750 HOW TO ADJUST VALJOUX 7750 TO BE FASTER
Calvin posted a topic in Watch Repairs Help & Advice
Hello guys.. I wanna ask.. How to adjust my eta valjoux 7750 movement to be faster.. Cause it slow 2-3 minute a day.. Do i just need to move this part to the (+) sign?? Thankyouu -
Hello again gents, I have a question about Valjoux 72 hairspring , what Is the identical part to fit this cal? I only need the hairspring due to I slip during regulating the beat and it can't be properly restore.
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Hi, Can anyone point me in the right direction to where I can economically buy a Valjoux ETA 7751 movement, dial, hands, day/date and moon phase dials? I am based in the U.K.
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Hallo and congratulation for this forum and interesting Watch Repair Talk's clips. Could anyone show or tell how to regulate a Valjoux 7550? I noticed that there are two versions: one simplier with two arms (one with two dots) and another one more complicated (unfortunately mine) in which there is a ring with an arrow which points to + - like in the picture below. In this case, should one move the edge of the arrow or is anything to be unlocked before doing that, or where does one have to touch/push in order to move the arrow towards + or - ? Many thanks
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As per the title, I was checking why my Gigandet Valjoux 7733- based chrono was not working today, and noticed that the hair spring got loose from the small insert that connects it to the balance cock (what's its name again?) Taking a closer look, it appeared to have been fixed with schellac, but I am not sure. Would this be normal, if so? So now I need to find a way to reinstall the hair spring inside the stud. Heating it gently could be the way, but I am afraid I will only riun the hair spring if not careful enough... Ideas? Comments?
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So today I received the set of spare Landeron movements I had bought last week. I received some spares, and 4 incomplete movements, various models, and a dial. Movements are completely dirty, will definitively need a good clean on my Elma, and the dial has also some patina, which actually I like. Here the pics: A very fast clean (by no means to make it working perfectly) and I put some parts together with the best looking movement, to have a working watch. I do not have proper cases for the chronographs as of yet, but I am still looking. Here my 3 chronos: The Walker and the Bovet are Landeron based, while the Gigandet is a Valjoux 7733 Sorry for the low quality pics, my mobile phone is just too bad...
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