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RyMoeller last won the day on November 28 2017

RyMoeller had the most liked content!

About RyMoeller

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    WRT Addict

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    Watchmaking (naturally), Aviation, Formula One, and Family

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  1. James's Watches

    Very fine collection. I especially like the GMT Master! Thanks for sharing!
  2. Well this isn't really a walkthrough because I'm learning on the fly but I felt it was worthy of sharing as the story will probably return some good advice. A bit over a year ago I picked up a Breitling Navitimer movement complete with crown, dial and slide rule. There were a few parts missing and a couple of broken pieces but I corrected those issues in short order and stored the movement away for that day when a case would come available. A few months later just such a case came up on eBay and I picked it up for a fair price even though the bezel was missing. The case has some issues- for example the threads for one of the chronograph pushers were stripped out (note the pusher held in with glue below) and it looks like the bezel was removed with a forklift. I widened the stripped out pusher hole and pushed in a stainless steel sleeve which will be tapped to accept the proper pusher (2.5mm tap, pitch 0.20mm). This work was completed some time ago then the project stalled out as replacement bezels are about as common as unicorns. Frustrated by this I decided to roll up my sleeves and turn a replacement. The correct bezel is approximately 3.25mm tall with a 41.0mm outside diameter, so I started with a 304 stainless steel ring which is 6.00mm tall and has an outside diameter of 41.0mm. I've not turned stainless steel on the lathe before and was hoping to start with a softer grade (say 400) but was limited by what would fit in my three jawed chuck. Now for anyone who is thinking, "you can't turn stainless like that on an 8mm lathe" you are of course correct (for the most part) but try I did and with a carbide graver I was able to make pretty quick work of the piece- chips were flying nicely but OH BOY DOES IT GET HOT! About twenty seconds of turning was all I could do before cooling the graver; this is of course why you always see stainless steel milled or cut under a stream of coolant. Since my workspace is limited and I don't want to make a big mess I moved on to Plan B (which was actually Plan A because I never figured I'd successfully turn a replacement stainless steel bezel on the lathe). Plan B was using brass, which meant I could put the carbide gravers away as they aggressively dig into brass like it's chocolate. This time I started with a thick brass washer and my usual HSS graver. Pretty soon I was knee deep in shavings (which are useful for bluing screws). I turned the washer to a ring with an inside diameter of 37.5mm. A recess was then cut 1.0mm deep to accept the crystal on one side and the inner bezel ring on the other. The inner bezel ring (on which the bezel is mounted) is about 1.8mm tall so the recess needed to be about 2.00 mm tall to accommodate the inner bezel ring and the slide rule. Getting the dimensions just right was achieved by using a black sharpie and a scribe (needle in a pin vice) to mark out the cuts then constantly checking and rechecking the fit. Once a proper fit to the case and crystal were achieved I proceeded to cut the exterior of the bezel. The cuts were done by eye then checked and rechecked for proper fit and finish. The outside diameter of the bezel where it meets the case tapers to 40.0mm and if I cut too much there's no way to add the material back. The current status is promising- below are the pictures as it stands today without notches. I'll be cutting the notches this weekend using a fine round escapement file. To ensure the notches are evenly spaced the plan is to remove a stainless steel bezel from another Navitimer I own and glue it to this one. The notches in the stainless bezel with then serve as pilot holes to guide my file. Once completed the plan is to have the bezel plated and the case professionally refinished (laser welded, etc.). Even though it's not correct for this watch, I'm thinking I'll probably have the bezel yellow gold plated as it will be easier to sell when and if a proper stainless steel bezel ever comes to replace it. A few things I've learned along the way that might be helpful- Don't get discouraged- I was 95% done two days ago when the bezel slipped off the chuck at speed and deformed- I had to start the whole thing over again. I did get to test my notch making skills on the bent piece though and that's worth something. A three jaw chuck isn't really the right tool for this job. There is a five or six jawed chuck for holding bezels, if you can find one, I'll bet it's a lot grippier. Turning large brass rounds on a lathe is great for your confidence. You'll think you're a master until it comes time for clean-up when you realize you really do need a proper machine shop (separate from your service workbench).
  3. Beginner: Messed up hair spring

    It looks like the stud is fiction fit to the top plate. You may be able to press the stud out from the topside.
  4. Based on the specifications for the A-11 (the US service watch during the second world war) the following were requirements: "Durable" dull black dial Numerals, hands and graduations painted in white (no luminous compound) Central sweep second hand Roman numerals Hack While the A-11 only had numerals 1 through 12 on the dial, later service pieces had a interior ring of numerals from 13 through 24 painted on the dial for military time reading. Most military watches that I'm aware of are manual wind pieces too.
  5. Platax tool on Ebay

    Yes, I did see that after the fact but something about waiting x number of seconds before posting again kept me from posting "Oops, nevermind".
  6. Platax tool on Ebay

    That's a bit optimistic. Here's a more affordable one: 382397488267.
  7. Horrors! (clutching pearls) It's a Frankenwatch!
  8. Hello from San Francisco!

    Hello, (from Rancho Cordova) and welcome to the forum.
  9. Probably an issue with the forth wheel or escape wheel- a pivot may be bent or there may be dirt in the jewel. The time elapsed between running fast and slow is the clue- the wheels are turning freely then struggling with friction. Since the period between fast and slow is less than 60 seconds I would look closely at the escape wheel pivots and gear teeth.
  10. 1967 Vietnam Era Military Watch DTU-2A/P

    Sometime the crystal can be popped out by increasing the air pressure inside the case.
  11. On the Workbench

    Pics of the chronographs which have crossed my bench. Currently I have pics of a 1967 Omega Speedmaster and a 1940's Universal Geneve Uni-Compax. Enjoy!
  12. Rolex 1570 losing time

    Interesting thread this is. I love (well hate) these mysteries in watch repair. Love them because they are challenging, hate them if it's a watch I want to wear (it can take forever to find those uncommon gremlins). My guess is that the watch is losing all of it's amplitude dial up. The result is the balance barely moves, but there is enough potential energy in the gear train to release the escape wheel when the impulse jewel touches the pallet. I would check the pivots and jewels for the pallet and escape wheel, paying particular attention to top pivots and jewels.
  13. Movement Identification Help

    Thank you!
  14. I'm looking for a little assistance with a movement identification. I nailed it down once in the past but didn't make a note of it and now that I'm revisiting the project I'm at a loss. The watch is Delmar woman's watch; Swiss made, from the 1920's or 1930's I think. As far as I can tell there is no maker's mark on the movement. Under the dial are some numbers: 24, 29293, and 1482. On the topside is Swiss Made, 15 Jewels, and 2 Adj. Any guesses are appreciated. I'm being pushed by my youngest daughter to finish this job- the cannon pinion was rusted to the center wheel and can use replacement but I need to find a parts movement for that. She's keen to wear this one as the peek-a-boo case back has tickled her fancy.
  15. Finding inexpensive Landeron cases?

    Funny you should ask the question. I was looking at some off the shelf cases for this purpose just this morning! We'll have to give it a go and publish our results- there's a lot of orphaned Landeron movements that could use a new home.