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RyMoeller last won the day on July 7

RyMoeller had the most liked content!

About RyMoeller

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    WRT Addict

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    Watchmaking (naturally), Aviation, Formula One, and Family

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  1. That's a beautiful watch but the market is small. I have a nearly identical Tissot in 14k white gold which I picked up for $75. An Omega would command more I'm sure.
  2. Looks like a Venus 150 or 175 movement. Good chronograph.
  3. Old radium based luminescent paint will age to rust red color but I think it all started green. If moisture gets to it, it will turn an ash black. Generally, collectors look for a mocha color. Haven't seen much of that in radium watches though.
  4. Wait a minute- you won the watch in the first picture only to have the listing updated stating the watch had been re-lumed and a new picture posted? Yeah, I wouldn't accept that- too shady. The luminous paint in the second image is too bright and doesn't look proper. It might be possible to remove it without damaging the dial but that's not guaranteed. The value of the piece has taken a hit too since the original luminous paint on the dial is gone- even if it's under the new paint, there's no way to remove just the new paint and recover the old paint. The old paint is probably radium based which is another reason to avoid messing with the dial. Lastly, the regulator pushed way off to the side is an ominous sign.
  5. Looking at my Moebius Sales Brochure (which appears to date to the mid 70's) 8300 and 8301 have good adherence but poor response to pressure which I imagine means it would be pushed out of the bearing by torque on the arbor. My (certainly outdated) Moebius document suggests 8030 or 8040 as thick oils for arbors. Might work... D5 is typically what I use unless the technical sheet specifically states otherwise, my understanding is that HP1300 is essentially the synthetic replacement of D5. I don't work on Seikos too often but have viewed almost all of Spencer Klein's videos on them and have noticed worn arbor bearings seem to be a very common problem. Considering that, I'd say the thicker the oil the better.
  6. Well I could have just called it an alternating current motor because it's not really run on direct current; I should have called it an electric motor. AC motor isn't really a great name because that's usually referring to motors used for air conditioning. AC/DC motor is simply incorrect in this case so I apologize for the confusion. The bit that you can see inside the casing is the backside of the reversing switch (and the tubes for the brushes).
  7. Oh yes, I did this. As you can see from the images- it wasn't grounded when I started! I'm glad I only got a mild shock instead of the 115V and 10 amps I could have received!
  8. Yeah I was pleasantly surprised. Just one frayed wire and the insulation was in good shape. I did consider doing a complete rewiring though but everything was holding up so well I figured best to leave it be. You can see a lot of oil has been slung around in there over the years though. Oh and it smelled wonderful- 1960's machine shop. Yum.
  9. It's fixed. A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business. Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now.
  10. Looks like progress. I've got the field coil out and found the wire which I thought was shorted was in fact frayed and touching the inside of the case.
  11. Here's some pics of the disassembly (thus far): My thinking is that the two posts (left and right in the last picture) run through the iron core and are threaded into the other side of the casing. It's just a guess though. Yes @vinn3, I"m leaning towards a new motor for a replacement. The only issue will be getting it mounted securely to the lathe table. I never could decide if I was a machinist or a carpenter so my I'm always scrambling for the right tools for the job!
  12. Yes, I'll provide one as soon as I return home from work.
  13. Hello all, I was cutting brass bushing on my Peerless lathe this weekend when I began to feel an unpleasant sensation in my arm- a bit like a high frequency vibration but somehow not quite. Well, having been on the wrong end of a few electrical escapades I knew my brain was confused by what turned out to be a continuous electrical shock. I pulled out my multi-meter and confirmed that the lathe bed was receiving 3-5 volts back while the motor ran. The lathe is powered by a very nice Watch Craft 1/10 HP AC/DC motor which has operated without fail until now. It is long in the tooth though, I would guess it was manufactured in the 50's or 60's. The internet advises that when an AC/DC motor is shorted it's time to discard it. I pulled the motor from the lathe and found that one of leads will register continuity when tested against the motor casing and that leads me to believe there's a short somewhere between the field coil and the case- although if it was that simple I'd probably be reading a lot more than 3-5 volts from the bed... anyhow, I can't figure out how to remove the field coil from of the case- there doesn't seem to be any visible screws to hold it in place. So this leads to my inquiry- has anyone removed a field coil from one of these motors before? And then of course my second inquiry- any experience swapping a lathe motor out with a modern replacement? I'm thinking one of the 1/15 HP Dayton motors would work well but if anyone has previous experience and would like to offer a suggestion I'm all ears.
  14. Interesting. I've not even heard of the Perrelet watch brand until this very post but they have some cool timepieces- I like the "Turbine Family". Often the color of a watch dial is achieved through a chemical process. To repeat it you would need to know what metal is used for the substrate (brass, steel, aluminum, etc.) Anodizing also comes to mind because you can get some vivid really vivid colors.
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