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  1. Looking for some insight, does this balance staff look worn out to you? This omega balance has been giving me some issues and this is where I am starting.
  2. Hi folks , I’m working on the Omega t17 that have a really strange problem, if i wind it to full power it seems to run like crazy with mad reading , but if i wind it ..say 5-7 time it keep the rate better , also the amplitude is almost the same on 5-7 turn and full turn at 290-320 i attaches the photo of the read I also noted that the beat rate is expanding and close on the reading too, Balance swings is not even ? thanks for the read and answer!
  3. Hi, I dropped the crown wheel screw from an omega 625 and spent three hours looking for it to no avail. Does anyone know where I could find a spare? I've searched on eBay extensively but it's looking like I might need to buy a complete movement to replace this part. I'm also aware that two versions of this screw exist, one with 3 lines which is left handed and one with 1 line which is right handed. The one I'm missing is the left hand version. If it helps, this movement is based on the zenith 30.5
  4. Hello everyone, I bought an omega with an 711 movement and managed to find the problem : the hairspring was twisted. So I bought another balance and while trying to fit it in the movement I pushed a bit too hard on the tweezers and it made a 180 Flip (upside down). This tiny little accident made a “knot” in the hairspring, does anyone know if there is a way to fix it ? Thank you very much and sorry for my frenglish Louis
  5. Hello All, Though I'm late, but Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. I did it. With Marc's videos and your encouragement I was able to service a tiny Omega DeVille Cal 625. The watch had issues with the stem settings and it turned out that part of the Setting Lever Spring was broken. It actually fell out when I opened the case. So I ordered a new spring and a mainspring. When the parts came I proceeded. I used up a few cartons of cigarettes (for all you anti-smokers out there, I know I should quit but...) because that thing is tiny but I was able to take it apart, clean it and more amazingly put it back together. I actually made a couple of YouTube videos about it but I had to take out the sound (too much cursing). Actually I took the sound out and replaced with No-Copyright music because I had the music on and those songs are copyrighted. Anyway, thank you all for you support and thank you Marc for all the useful videos and great advise. Onwards and Upwards (by that I mean Onwards: more watches and Upwards: normal sizes) Cheers, Maz
  6. I was reading a print magazine and came across a stunning image that made me think of this thread on WATCH ART to which I commented earlier today. This doesn't rightly belong there but it seems to be "watch art" just the same. Apparently Omega has a new campaign entitled: "LOOKS MAGICAL. WORKS BEAUTIFULLY." Maybe they're hoping to capitalize on the Omega + Swatch series of watches? Anyway, I thought I'd post this image for their Speedmaster Moonwatch which shows dials and wheels and a spaceman constructed from polished complication levers and diamonds floating in space. There are variations of this one too that can be found online.
  7. i have omega swiss watch, the watch already been used for 5 or 4 years and the watch stope working now. the type of watch i don't know what type it's but what i know is can use without battery is more like mechanical watch
  8. I have an omega watch, the inside of the case is signed as is the movement, however I cannot find another one like it anywhere online. Has a Harley Ronda 3775 movement (signed Omega). Before I try and sell this I just want to make sure it's real. Seems strange to put a in decent quartz movement, have it signed inside the case and on the movement and be a fake, but since I can't find another like it I want to make sure. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  9. Hi guys, First proper post on the forum. Thanks again for having me. Just took receipt of an Omega Chronostop 145.010. Cracking watch but the hour hand has a lot of crud on it. Just wondering: 1. Is it rust or something else like decayed radium? 2. Any ideas on how to correct this? Risk removing the hands and going over it with pegwood or try and track down spare hands (having trouble finding them). Cheers in Advance, C
  10. Hello, Anyone here have an experience with a similar vintage Omega and knows how to remove the movement from the case? Tried rotating the movement (slightly, i'm afraid i'll break something) but with no luck. Thanks!
  11. Hi all It has been a great challenge to find a Omega Case tube for my Seamaster Chronograph Professional case 178.0504 (or 178.0514). Omega part number is 090ST1237. Any place I can buy an alternative after market to replace the original? any suggestion on where you would go for an Omega like after market case tube? It is quite a long tube (5.90mm) threaded in the inside. Many thanks
  12. Hello all, I know it's 'only' an electrical one but to say I'm overjoyed is a bit of an understatement. My Grandfather gave me this, his 1982 retirement watch, 20 years ago as an empty case and strap - the innards had apperently been slowly demolished over the years by a leaky battery and where nowhere to be found. At the start of the locky-down thing I decided it was time to do a bit of research to see if the parts could be found to rebuild it, bit of a baptism of fire as a total newby. It soon became evident that this search should have been done years ago because Omega restricted parts coupled with a dearth of NOS parts was a real headache! Through all this research I also realised just how rare the case and bracelet style were so persisted for months, getting my claws on some old, rough, nasty and for want of a better word, crap bits and pieces. As we know the circuit and coil are getting really rare but even more rare it seems are the winding pinions and dials for them, and even the crap parts are ludicrously expensive. You know how you get into something, buy bits, realise your up to your neck in it but realise you're to far in it to retreat? Suffice to say, I've had so much support from several people in the watchmaker community so with their help and shear dogged, billigerence and blatant stubbornness it is finally running. Still some work to do - the date needs to start changing at half 11 because it takes two hours to change, the seconds hand needs lining up better with the minute markers and I've toyed with the idea of restoring the dial, with some lacquer and minute markers missing (or maybe not, as it's a sign of its individuality!) Having enjoyed it for a while I'll also take it all apart again and service it, only because of Lawson''s brilliant walk-through on the 1337 movement on this forum. Never really thought of a bi-colour watch like this as my style, but with the blood, sweat, tears and more sweat and tears that has gone into it, I've decided I love it to bits. Thank you all for your never ending inspiration and such generous shared knowledge Mark Lovick and everyone - great bunch of people you lot!
  13. Got a ladies Omega De Ville in an auction lot today. My limit for repairs to this point has been installing batteries. The watch runs but runs several hours fast. I know there are a few reasons it could be running fast. I don't have a degausser but suspect it could be magnetized. What are some other things I should consider or questions I should ask if I take it in for repair? Also, do you know if there was originally a plastic retaining ring to secure the movement in the case? There was none when I opened the back. Thanks in advance!
  14. Hello! Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date). If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know. Thanks in advance. Jakob
  15. Cheers Mates! Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the
  16. Hello. I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch. I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down. What could be done in this situation? Thanks!
  17. Cheers mates!! Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown. Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit. Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment. The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in. Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit? Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this?? Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem... se photo
  18. Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site. brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured? I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit) would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change? paid service of course. any help advice would be much appreciated thank you
  19. This one is a real mystery so I thought I'd toss it up here in case someone else has come across this problem. I've reassembled the Speedmaster which was lacking parts (see my earlier inquiry) and have it up and running again. It's a long story, but amazingly, after missing a bundle of parts and being terribly neglected it's ticking away happily and the chronograph works a treat- but there is one BIG problem. The watch runs about two seconds per minute fast. That adds up pretty quickly. The timegrapher trace isn't too clean but it is consistent and it shows the watch running much better than that (note the image only shows about fifteen seconds of testing on the timegrapher- rest assured, I've had it on there a lot longer than that and have pretty much the same results in all positions) So why does the timegrapher show the watch running less than a minute off per day but the real world results are so much different? Well there are a few possible problem areas. The escapement may be the problem but the pallet and balance (complete) are NOS replacements from Omega. The escape wheel may be an issue- perhaps it's "slipping" and the pallet isn't locking consitantly. I haven't seen this on the timegrapher though nor have I seen it while watching the escapement under the microscope. Still, there are some obvious issues in the movement. Whoever disassembled it before I got it made a real mess of things. For example the Delrin wheel on the coupling clutch was vandalized terribly by a wayward screwdriver. It took quite a while to get the gear teeth back in order (the "before" picture is below). I secured a NOS replacement just in case the movement didn't accept the repaired coupling clutch. Despite this damage, I don't think the coupling clutch is the problem. The fourth wheel is positioned between the coupling clutch and the escape wheel. It's regulated by the escape wheel and the running seconds hand is attached to the fourth wheel. When I time how long it takes for the running seconds hand to make a full revolution using the stopwatch built into my iPhone, I come up with 58.02 seconds (give or take a few tenths). I'm thinking the problem lies with the fourth wheel. The Lemania 5012 chronograph movement (Tissot 2920) runs at a slower 21600 BPM. The replacement of the fourth wheel in this movement (a Lemania 5100, 28800 BPM derivative) with one manufactured for the 5012 movement would result in the watch running fast. It's questionable whether the gear teeth would mesh properly though. Right now it's just a guess. I may need to tear the movement back down to check the gear ratios for each of the wheels in the train to confirm they're the right wheels for the movement but before I do that I was hoping someone might have solved a mystery such as this before and have some good advice to offer! Thanks in advance for the comments as they are always helpful! Here's a few pics of the watch as it came together- just because posts with pictures are always more interesting. Before service begins... Why you should periodically replace your spring bars- Omega gaskets self destruct (turn into tar) if they aren't replaced for forty years... This movement is plastic fantastic but I love it. Other than not keeping time at all, it's the easiest chronograph movement I've worked on. Look at all those scratches- previous watchmaker's tool of choice- screwdriver or machete? It is a pretty beast though.
  20. Hello all, I'm in desperate need to find servicing within a reasonable price range for my two omega constellations f300hz. I'm having a very hard process of finding a place that will actually service these watches besides omega itself. Omega's servicing for these watches start at 1200.00 a pop + nearly half a year wait time; quite expensive and time consuming..Does anyone on here recommend a place to get these watches serviced stateside..It would be great if they are in NYC too. This young watch collector would be so appreciative if someone could help out. Thanks, Cameron
  21. Hello all i wonder if anyone could offer some advice. I have an Omega seamaster 1345 quartz day date. Working well. However it seems the date is stuck (as shown in pictures) i know the push button at the 4 o clock position is meant to filter through the date? However when pushed in nothing seems to happen. As a result of this the watch works fine but only up untill 11pm it doesnt turn over to midnight and therefor change the day or date. Minute hand works perfectly but it seems i have to change the hour position every morning. when i turn the crown, hour hand moves fune and after the 12 o clock position changes the day, but date does not moth along with it. anyone know how i can resolve this safely without removing too many parts of the movement? Many thanks
  22. Cheers mates!! Got this into my bench, but I wonder how ta get the movment out? I have taken of the glass, removed the stem, but when I trie to move the ring with grooves(red circles) the movment follows anti clock wice. Is it so simple that I have to hold the movment tight while Im doing it?
  23. I recently acquired an Omega Speedmaster automatic from the 1970's that has the Omega 1045 / Lemania 5100 movement inside. Long story short- the previous owner tried to service it and made a mess instead. I've managed to source all the parts I think I need except one for the automatic works- the Stop Spring (part no. 1414). This looks like a part I may be able to fabricate but if the original is available I would prefer that. Unfortunately I've come up empty with my usual suppliers. Cousins is the one one who may have it, but it's Restricted which I suppose means you need to be an Omega authorized technician (which I naturally am not) to purchase. If anyone has a lead to follow I would be most grateful for your assistance. This piece is a proper mess right now but I think I'm close to bringing it back from the dead.
  24. Hello fellow watch freaks. It's been a while since I've posted a service walkthrough, but I had an accident that destroyed my left shoulder and needed surgery. It's been a rough 6 months for me, with a LOT of soul searching throughout my recovery period. But I'm back on the bench ... at least at home anyway; work is a different matter, and my close friends on this forum know about that ... nuff said. This watch is owned by one of my older brother's friends. My older brother is one of the most selfless people I know, and has always been there for me. So when he asked me to do this for him it became TOP priority. It was the first item his friend purchased after he left school and began work: so there's a lot of good memories tied to this watch. As you can see it's an older quartz Seamaster with an 1337 Movement. On first inspection you can see water damage to the Dial @ 3 o'clock. So I wasn't expecting to see a happy movement inside. But when I got the Caseback off things didn't look too bad at all. Just a bit of corrosion from a cheap nasty Chinese battery. The movement still looked nice and shiny and the Stem only had a touch of rust up near the Crown. So this watch looks like one we can save :) Disassembly OK, lets begin. Fist remove the Hands and Dial from the movement. Again, absolutely no moisture damage under the Dial ... this made me VERY happy indeed. So on to the Movement Holder it goes. Remove the Battery Clamp and Insulator Ring. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the Circuit Cover. Note that there is an insulator under the cover. It is very delicate, so great care should be taken when handling it. Once the cover is removed the circuit is exposed; but before removing it, unscrew the 2 screws holding the Coil Protector and remove it. Then unscrew the Coil, and remove the Circuit and Coil. Place both the Circuit and Coil in a safe place to avoid damage, as this parts are obsolete, and if damaged you'll have to scour the internet for a donor movement ... good luck with that!! Next remove the Train Bridge Here is a reference photo of the train. As you can see, the Rotor is a very different looking animal to the modern ETA rotors. Carefully remove all the wheels, and store the Rotor in a safe place AWAY from the rest of the parts to be cleaned ... as this has to be hand cleaned due to it being magnetic. Please Note: There is a very small washer that fits between the minute wheel and the extended pivot of the Second Wheel. Be sure to identify it, and make sure it's put in the small parts container for cleaning. Here's the complete train removed from the movement for reference. Flip the movement over in the holder and remove the 3 screws of the cover that holds the Calendar Ring. As you can see that Motion Work and Calendar Work are fairly complex on this movement. Make sure you take good reference photos and study them carefully so they are not confused with wheels of the train. Remove the Calendar Ring. Remove the Motion Work and Calendar Work. Here's the complete Motion Work and Calendar Work removed from the movement for reference. The Crown and Clutch should now be able to be removed. Flip the movement over once again to tackle the Keyless Work Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Spring. Lastly unscrew and remove the Setting Lever, Intermediate Wheel and Yoke. The Omega 1337 Movement is now completely disassembled and ready for cleaning. I will post the assembly soon.
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