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Found 54 results

  1. Cheers mates!! Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown. Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit. Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment. The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in. Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit? Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this?? Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem... se photo
  2. Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site. brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured? I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit) would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change? paid service of course. any help advice would be much appreciated thank you
  3. Cheers Mates! Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the
  4. This one is a real mystery so I thought I'd toss it up here in case someone else has come across this problem. I've reassembled the Speedmaster which was lacking parts (see my earlier inquiry) and have it up and running again. It's a long story, but amazingly, after missing a bundle of parts and being terribly neglected it's ticking away happily and the chronograph works a treat- but there is one BIG problem. The watch runs about two seconds per minute fast. That adds up pretty quickly. The timegrapher trace isn't too clean but it is consistent and it shows the watch running much better than that (note the image only shows about fifteen seconds of testing on the timegrapher- rest assured, I've had it on there a lot longer than that and have pretty much the same results in all positions) So why does the timegrapher show the watch running less than a minute off per day but the real world results are so much different? Well there are a few possible problem areas. The escapement may be the problem but the pallet and balance (complete) are NOS replacements from Omega. The escape wheel may be an issue- perhaps it's "slipping" and the pallet isn't locking consitantly. I haven't seen this on the timegrapher though nor have I seen it while watching the escapement under the microscope. Still, there are some obvious issues in the movement. Whoever disassembled it before I got it made a real mess of things. For example the Delrin wheel on the coupling clutch was vandalized terribly by a wayward screwdriver. It took quite a while to get the gear teeth back in order (the "before" picture is below). I secured a NOS replacement just in case the movement didn't accept the repaired coupling clutch. Despite this damage, I don't think the coupling clutch is the problem. The fourth wheel is positioned between the coupling clutch and the escape wheel. It's regulated by the escape wheel and the running seconds hand is attached to the fourth wheel. When I time how long it takes for the running seconds hand to make a full revolution using the stopwatch built into my iPhone, I come up with 58.02 seconds (give or take a few tenths). I'm thinking the problem lies with the fourth wheel. The Lemania 5012 chronograph movement (Tissot 2920) runs at a slower 21600 BPM. The replacement of the fourth wheel in this movement (a Lemania 5100, 28800 BPM derivative) with one manufactured for the 5012 movement would result in the watch running fast. It's questionable whether the gear teeth would mesh properly though. Right now it's just a guess. I may need to tear the movement back down to check the gear ratios for each of the wheels in the train to confirm they're the right wheels for the movement but before I do that I was hoping someone might have solved a mystery such as this before and have some good advice to offer! Thanks in advance for the comments as they are always helpful! Here's a few pics of the watch as it came together- just because posts with pictures are always more interesting. Before service begins... Why you should periodically replace your spring bars- Omega gaskets self destruct (turn into tar) if they aren't replaced for forty years... This movement is plastic fantastic but I love it. Other than not keeping time at all, it's the easiest chronograph movement I've worked on. Look at all those scratches- previous watchmaker's tool of choice- screwdriver or machete? It is a pretty beast though.
  5. Hello all, I'm in desperate need to find servicing within a reasonable price range for my two omega constellations f300hz. I'm having a very hard process of finding a place that will actually service these watches besides omega itself. Omega's servicing for these watches start at 1200.00 a pop + nearly half a year wait time; quite expensive and time consuming..Does anyone on here recommend a place to get these watches serviced stateside..It would be great if they are in NYC too. This young watch collector would be so appreciative if someone could help out. Thanks, Cameron
  6. Hello all i wonder if anyone could offer some advice. I have an Omega seamaster 1345 quartz day date. Working well. However it seems the date is stuck (as shown in pictures) i know the push button at the 4 o clock position is meant to filter through the date? However when pushed in nothing seems to happen. As a result of this the watch works fine but only up untill 11pm it doesnt turn over to midnight and therefor change the day or date. Minute hand works perfectly but it seems i have to change the hour position every morning. when i turn the crown, hour hand moves fune and after the 12 o clock position changes the day, but date does not moth along with it. anyone know how i can resolve this safely without removing too many parts of the movement? Many thanks
  7. Cheers mates!! Got this into my bench, but I wonder how ta get the movment out? I have taken of the glass, removed the stem, but when I trie to move the ring with grooves(red circles) the movment follows anti clock wice. Is it so simple that I have to hold the movment tight while Im doing it?
  8. Hi folks , I’m working on the Omega t17 that have a really strange problem, if i wind it to full power it seems to run like crazy with mad reading , but if i wind it ..say 5-7 time it keep the rate better , also the amplitude is almost the same on 5-7 turn and full turn at 290-320 i attaches the photo of the read I also noted that the beat rate is expanding and close on the reading too, Balance swings is not even ? thanks for the read and answer!
  9. I recently acquired an Omega Speedmaster automatic from the 1970's that has the Omega 1045 / Lemania 5100 movement inside. Long story short- the previous owner tried to service it and made a mess instead. I've managed to source all the parts I think I need except one for the automatic works- the Stop Spring (part no. 1414). This looks like a part I may be able to fabricate but if the original is available I would prefer that. Unfortunately I've come up empty with my usual suppliers. Cousins is the one one who may have it, but it's Restricted which I suppose means you need to be an Omega authorized technician (which I naturally am not) to purchase. If anyone has a lead to follow I would be most grateful for your assistance. This piece is a proper mess right now but I think I'm close to bringing it back from the dead.
  10. Hello fellow watch freaks. It's been a while since I've posted a service walkthrough, but I had an accident that destroyed my left shoulder and needed surgery. It's been a rough 6 months for me, with a LOT of soul searching throughout my recovery period. But I'm back on the bench ... at least at home anyway; work is a different matter, and my close friends on this forum know about that ... nuff said. This watch is owned by one of my older brother's friends. My older brother is one of the most selfless people I know, and has always been there for me. So when he asked me to do this for him it became TOP priority. It was the first item his friend purchased after he left school and began work: so there's a lot of good memories tied to this watch. As you can see it's an older quartz Seamaster with an 1337 Movement. On first inspection you can see water damage to the Dial @ 3 o'clock. So I wasn't expecting to see a happy movement inside. But when I got the Caseback off things didn't look too bad at all. Just a bit of corrosion from a cheap nasty Chinese battery. The movement still looked nice and shiny and the Stem only had a touch of rust up near the Crown. So this watch looks like one we can save :) Disassembly OK, lets begin. Fist remove the Hands and Dial from the movement. Again, absolutely no moisture damage under the Dial ... this made me VERY happy indeed. So on to the Movement Holder it goes. Remove the Battery Clamp and Insulator Ring. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the Circuit Cover. Note that there is an insulator under the cover. It is very delicate, so great care should be taken when handling it. Once the cover is removed the circuit is exposed; but before removing it, unscrew the 2 screws holding the Coil Protector and remove it. Then unscrew the Coil, and remove the Circuit and Coil. Place both the Circuit and Coil in a safe place to avoid damage, as this parts are obsolete, and if damaged you'll have to scour the internet for a donor movement ... good luck with that!! Next remove the Train Bridge Here is a reference photo of the train. As you can see, the Rotor is a very different looking animal to the modern ETA rotors. Carefully remove all the wheels, and store the Rotor in a safe place AWAY from the rest of the parts to be cleaned ... as this has to be hand cleaned due to it being magnetic. Please Note: There is a very small washer that fits between the minute wheel and the extended pivot of the Second Wheel. Be sure to identify it, and make sure it's put in the small parts container for cleaning. Here's the complete train removed from the movement for reference. Flip the movement over in the holder and remove the 3 screws of the cover that holds the Calendar Ring. As you can see that Motion Work and Calendar Work are fairly complex on this movement. Make sure you take good reference photos and study them carefully so they are not confused with wheels of the train. Remove the Calendar Ring. Remove the Motion Work and Calendar Work. Here's the complete Motion Work and Calendar Work removed from the movement for reference. The Crown and Clutch should now be able to be removed. Flip the movement over once again to tackle the Keyless Work Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Spring. Lastly unscrew and remove the Setting Lever, Intermediate Wheel and Yoke. The Omega 1337 Movement is now completely disassembled and ready for cleaning. I will post the assembly soon.
  11. Hello friends! im new here I have a question about 2500 movement in Omega... How can I know which movement I have? 2500 a b c ? Omega Seamaster 300M Co-Axial 2220.80.00 from 2007 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquid Metal Limited Edition 222.30.42.20.01.001 from 2010 thank you all!
  12. Hi, in order to buy appropriate spares in my attempt to service an Omega 175.0083 (7750) I need some advice: 1. I've already been suggested to replace MS: Barrel is Ok and I'm thinking of buying a new MS and moebius 8217 for barrel lubricating as I don't want to spend money on recommended Kluber 125 grease. Should I consider instead buying a barrel complete (assuming Barrel complete (180.1) comes with MS installed) wich supposedly comes prelubricated ? 2. Attached image shows automatic device bridge with evident sign of wear from where, to my understanding, the problem orginated: a screw came off I cant find original part. ETA part is different from Omega in that the Omega is larger and partially covers hammer two function and the chronograph cam. Beside that and since the watch has no crystal back case I think those parts are perfectly interchangeable. Do I need to replace the bridge or are there alternative aproaches to this problem? TIA Giuseppe
  13. I have been working on a lovely old 1924 Omega 23.7 S.T2 gents' wristwatch and have had some limited success in stripping down, servicing and reassembly in that the movement now works and keeps good time. However, on inspecting the parts as I went, I realised that the crown and stem weren't original, explaining why it kept falling out. So I ordered a replacement Omega stem for the exact calibre from Cousins, which arrived today. However, thinking this would be the issue resolved, I was disappointed to find after closer examination of the keyless works, that the pivot shaft end of the stem will not slide home through the pivot shaft hole. I have included photos the best I can to illustrate the problem with some additional photos of the watch for reference. I have been watchmaking as a hobby for about 8 months and this looks like a pretty advanced problem to solve. If anyone has any ideas how I can get the stem engaged in the pivot hole or any other suggestions, and really appreciate hearing from you.
  14. Hello all,im new at trying to fix watches. This is my third attempt as my previous watches where so rusted internally that it wasnt worth it.But I recently got a Ladies Seamaster Automatic 684, 586.0089 1976 (according to the Omega web portal). I was curious if anybody knew what the paint or material that is on the hour markers is??And if it was available somewhere to buy? or is it an obsolete way of face dial design? Since under a loop it has the appearance of sand glued on metal slivers. Can it be that the original paint degraded over the decades? Sorry I couldn’t get really up close images. Thank you for all the wisdom for this beginner,mario.
  15. Cheers mates! Have done service on a Omega cal. 265, have taken it togheter, have cleaned in a Janta Brand cleaning maschine, inspectede all parts for wear and tear. Put it togheter, it started to once I winded it, it when for 48 hours straight, and was measured to - 160 sec. late. It was left for some days until yesterday, I thought I should try to make it go a little more precise. When winding, it would not start, tok off the backcover, everything sems ok. Tok out the balance bridgde, and sat it in again, than it when for a little while, and then stopt. Do somebody have som clue what to start with??
  16. Hello, I'm new to this forum that I've followed for a while. I began to collect watches, also trying to service them. Not very successful so far, but I'm learning. I have to replace a regulator on a balance bridge on Omega Seamaster cal. 286. I don't see any screw to remove it , don't want to break anything. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Kind regards Luc
  17. Hello, I have been asked to fix a problem with the stem of an Omega Geneve that wasn't engaging to set the hands and wind. Fair enough, I'm becoming a little more experienced now after six months of tinkering and soon identified that the winding pinion had popped out of its housing and fouling the calendar wheel teeth - presumably someone else had removed the stem before! Anyhow, fiddly but I fixed the problem, reassembled, and everything tested out okay (winds, hands set, and calendar quick set works). The problem now is that when I fit the second hand it keeps falling off, though while laid flat face up, the second hand moves around the dial normally. I've added a couple of photos, just in case you can spot anything. I must add that I ordered a set of used replacement hands, thinking that the second hand hole (if that's the term) had become worn and too large for the pinion. However, the replacement hand makes no difference. So am I now correct in looking towards pinion wear that's driving the second hand through the cannon pinion? Am I doing anything obviously wrong that you may be able to provide a tip for. I am using a proper Horotec hand fitting tool in an attempt to press the hand fully home, though afraid to exert much force in case I damage anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Adam
  18. I need to replace the battery for my late grandfather's Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar (1551/861). I have probably spent 6 hours searching the internet to identify which battery I need, and I have been completely unsuccessful. Would anybody happen to know what battery I would need, or at least where on the internet I might be able to identify this information? Thank you so very much.
  19. Hi Everyone, Need help with my vintage Omega dynamic with stem stuck inside the case, only the crown is out(Due to rust) and now it seems we are having trouble turning the dial and movement to get them out as the broken Stem is obstructing the Movement & Dial rotation. Please suggest how to remove the Movement without damaging the dial or the case . Thanks for the Help.
  20. I have one of these in for service, cant figure out why the hour hand does not go round when time is set. The hour hand sets OK although sometimes it clicks every hour and other times it runs smooth. The minutes and seconds function fine even when setting the time. http://www.old-omegas.com/1337en.html Maybe a problem with the magnetic wheel on the date set? I looked under the microscope and it looks like the 2 part magnetic wheel on the date side is only rotating on the bottom half and not transferring the force to the top half to the hour wheel. Any ideas on how to remedy it and get her going again?? Omega 1332.pdf
  21. Hi everyone I decided to take a bold move on my amateur hobby and kick-off the service of my omega seamaster professional chronograph 300m, which is equipped with the Omega Cal 1154. I already did a detailed reading of the walkthrough posted by Lawson on the ETA 7750 (below). Fantastic piece of work! Thanks Lawson! Any insights if I will find many differences (if any) on the Omega Cal 1154, compared to the ETA 7750? Anyone knows if there are any available technical specifications chart for the Omega 1154? Many thanks
  22. Just cleaned an Omega 564. Tried the quickset feature before replacing the dial but the date ring doesn't move far enough for the jumper to clear the next tooth. The ring looks fine and (unfortunately) this wasn't the initial problem with the watch (Stem fell out). Guidance? Tips on what common mistakes can be made in this area? Thanks
  23. Hi all, I recently purchased a 1962 Omega ladies watch which has a cal. 455 automatic movement. It's a Ladymatic in a square case. The information inside on the case back ties up with the movement serial number. The crystal, which has yellowed a bit and is cushion shaped and curved on all four sides, I'll need to replace. It's working fine but I will give it a service though. The point of sale information described the watch as an Omega Redima Tick. Can someone please explain to me what that means because I cannot find out much about it? The movement serial number is: 19008899, which dates it to 1962 I don't want to upload any photos because I don't want them on the WWW just yet, but inside the case back is engraved: ACIER INOXYDABLE OMEGA WATCH CO. (inside a triangle) FAB. SUISSE SWISS MADE 3993 62 SC Thanks in advance.
  24. Cheers Mates Pick up this beauty on the bay for some days ago, but I could use en english day wheel and a crown. Is it anybody that have that in spare? Thanks and all the best Armand Ekvold
  25. Hello all, Can anyone tell me if Omega still produces parts for the Cal. 1382 quartz 7 jewel? I don't want to box it up and send it if I don't have to. If no, is there a direct ETA replacement for it? Maybe 956.032? Thanks fellas
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