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Found 22 results

  1. Hi everyone, can anyone please explain the process for oiling the cap stones on the citizen shock spring system, they differ from the regular ones I have worked on as the bearing is mounted to a spring and the cap stone is part of the securing system... maybe I am over thinking it? Here is the bearing jewel, notice that the flat side is facing down towards hair spring and the domed part is facing up : Here is the cap stone:
  2. Hello All, Since my last post about an Omega and a Seiko, I have fallen deeper and deeper into the buying vintage watches and cleaning the putting-back-together hole. So I picked up this guy from one of the auction sites for about $10 I stripped everything down, cleaned everything, and tried to put it all back together. Seems everything went well I am however stuck at the calendar wheel and spring. Seems the last guy that came in here lost the spring and made one of those guitar string type spring. I know that it works as I tested it before I took things apart. Only thing is it does not sit flush and its a juggling affair to get the spring to sit pushing on the calendar lever sitting just so the date wheel without flying into space. Then only I can put this plate on. As far as I can tell, the plate is what is holding this precarious spring lever date wheel sandwich all in its place. I can take it apart, I am amazed at the previous guy to get it all in just so. Can I get any advice on how I can get this done? The options I looked at are 01. Place the spring and lever, have the lever away from the spring, put the plate on, and try to slide the date wheel in. *** Nope does not work that way 02. Try to have the date wheel a little away, place the lever away from the spring and try to adjust after one of the screws are placed. *** Nope The spring does not like to stay in place 03. Have not tried this but I am thinking of super gluing or somehow fixing the spring down. Screw the plate on and then shove the lever into place *** What do you think? 04. Track down the actual spring and get either a donor movement or part. *** seems like an expensive way to repair something that was about $10 05. Black out all the dates and call it a design and also call it a day *** translation Giving up. I would really appreciate the opportunity to learn how the last guy actually did it.
  3. Hello All. I'm a fellow watch enthusiast from the North-East of England. I hope everyone is keeping well. I recently bought myself a cheap watch repair kit, dusted off the old watch storage box and started to giving my watches the attention they required, it's been going quite well so far but do need some guidance with the correct steps of putting the workings and the case back on for my Accurist GMT Grand Complication, hopefully I will do a separate post on this with pics. Anyway hope everyone is having a decent Friday night.
  4. Hello! I'm working on a Citizen 8110 movement, but the keyless works is giving me some trouble. Everything seems to go in place correctly, but I can't get it working properly. Winding works correctly, but in the date and time setting positions, the clutch wheel won't engage properly with the setting wheel. I'm attaching pictures, in order, of the crown pushed in, in the middle position and pulled out all the way. The clutch wheel doesn't seem to move enough to fully engage the setting wheel, is this more likely a mistake during reassembly or a part that's worn out? I'm just an amateur but I have tried my best to assemble everything properly based on the service manual and several different guides on Youtube, and I've disassembled and reassembled the entire keyless works fully several times trying to troubleshoot this
  5. I have here one of my late father's watches, a Rectangular faced watch measuring 3/4" wide x 1" tall. It is made with bracelet and a clasp but it does not look like a deployant or deployment clasp. To get the watch case back off I had to open the bracelet and I can't remember the sequence to get it back together. I got it running but the band probably needs dissassembly from the watch and an ultrasonci cleaning. Would someone know the name of this style of clasp? I've no had much luck with google. Thanks in advance, I thin that since joining this forum a few months ago I have now sucessfully changed the batteries in 11 watches and only a couple to go, before every watch in our house is working again. The next thing I want to learn (after learning about this bracelet / clasp LOL) is how to clean a watch properly. You guys are very resourceful. THANK YOU Mark
  6. Hello watch bangers! Its been a while because I have decided to change my project schedule a bit but nevertheless, I bring you my most recent watch! This Report will be focusing on my work on an old Citizen watch with a Miyota 8200 movement! Next to the usual service features such as crystal replacement, lubrication and cleaning, I will also be talking a little about dial feet repairs since this watch needed one! Nevertheless, for you lazy people out there, here is the 4k fully commented video on Youtube: Overwise enjoy the read! Arrival status: Here is the watch when it first arrived on my work table Here is a list of what is wrong with this poor old watch: - Missing front crystal and dirty case back crystal - Detached hands - Misaligned dial - Non-Running movement So as you can see this is quite alot of work, but we will be covering all of this and the result definitely are worth it! Disassembly: 1.Removed the detached hands to protect them and screwed open the case back. 2.Removed the case, the dial spacer and the dial ( which had no dial feet attached anymore) and strapped the movement into the holder. 3.Took off the golden day wheel clip and the day wheel. 4.Unscrewed and removed the date cover to reveal all the setting subsystems. 5.Removed the date wheel by releasing tension on its little spring. 6.Took off the date spring and the two quick date and day levers. 7.Off with the canon pinion and the minute and whole wheel. 8.Removed the stem setting system ( Yoke and setting lever) as well as the translation to the canon pinion ( the two translation wheel and their cover). 9.Finally removed the clutch to complete the front side disassembly, well except for the balance jewel! 10.Flip the movement and remove the Rotor. I was really lucky and had a green gilden rotor on this miyota 8200! Loved the look of it! 11.Removed the complete balance. Loved the cool contrast of the round balance shape to the square jewel cap! 12. Undid the pallet fork bridge and lifted both of them away. Pallet fork jewels looked good under x20 magnification. 13. Unscrewed the brutalistically designed main bridge and took it off to be able to dig into the inner gear works. Took off all the gear leading from the escapement to the mainspring and moved on the to the ratchet system. 14.Removed the ratchet system and moved on to the Mainspring barrel and winding wheel which where both removed. 15.Here,I came to the final sub bridge where I removed the sweeping second pinion . 16. Lastly, I removed the final bridge and the underlying wheel which went through the mainplate. With this 99% of the disassembly was done! You can see all the parts (Around 75 I think) assorted in my sorting box! Mainspring As always, I did not have a spare mainspring at hand not did I plan on getting a new one so we once again go to servicing the mainspring! Unwound it out of the barrel and it came out pretty decent, maybe a few small nicks and unevenness but nothing major! After a manual rub down in lighter fluid and alcohol and the following lubrication of its whole length and the barrel insides, carefully wound it back inside to get this result: Cleaning Since I have decided to just keep going with the manual cleaning method, It is the usual process! A good soak in lighter fluid followed by a rinse in isopropanol alcohol. I of course did not include the balance or the pallet fork into this methodology since the alcohol could dissolve the shellac used in the jewel adhesion. I just gave them a good lighter fluid bath! Lubrication All the lubrication I used: Moebius 9010 - Basically All jewel bearing Moebius 8200 - Mainspring lubrication and barrel bottom and under the barrel lid. Moebius 8217 - Mainspring barrel grease Moebius 9415 - A miniscule amount on the palletfork jewel tips Moebius HP 1300 - Slower moving contact points such as: Metal barrel bearing, canon pinion and hour pinion sides Molycote DX - Heavy contact points mainly in the gearless setting system. Reassembly: Just follow the disassembly steps and you should be good! Dont forget to clean and lubricate the balance shock jewels. I haven't really taken any pictures of that process but they will be coming in the following reports! Here is one right after I did the whole process: Dial feet Repair: Now dial feet repair was quite a big issue for me since I always buy used watches and their parts online. And very often I would be super enthusiastic about a lovely looking dial that I snagged just to get it and realize that the dial feet are snapped off. And since I dont like glueing dial and not even mentioning the fact that glueing dials on watches withd ay/date complication being basically impossible anyways, I had to find another way. After some research, I decided to go into the field of resoldering the dial feet onto the dials. Now this has alot of variables which decide if it works out without ruining the dial ( dial material, print, cover, thickness etc..). I went onto my balcony and used a little tools holder, solder, copper wire, safety goggles, soldering paste to solder the copper wire used as a replacement to the dials again. Here are a few pictures of the balcony: And here of the “fixed” dial, even though the back does look absolutely demolished. You dont see that side though hehe. I wont write down the whole process here but I probably will do a more in depth one on a separate post in the proper forum. Timegrapher Test: After everything came back together, it was time to test my work on the good old timegrapher! Here is the result right after reassembly without any regulation: And here it the watch post-regulation: The low Amplitude is probably a mixture of the mainspring not being replaced and not being wound fully! Im also not very satisfied with the slight background noise with is visible on the graph ( just because I like my lines neat and straight haha). Oh and I regulate the watches to their best performance in two position. So once dial up and once dial down. Everything else really is outside of my skill, ressource and patience level xD Final Results So here are the final results of the restored watch! I did end up buying a fitting original citizen stainless steel bracelet but I did not have the chance to use my works camera to capture pictures. Anyhow, the pictures of the watch still look great to enjoy the view! Conclusion So in conclusion, working on this watch was a nice experience! It was cool to show you guys the movement since this was the last movement of a 6 watch lot which I finished off! I loved the brutalistic but kind of aesthetic design on the parts so shout out to the people at Miyota. Im writing this up last minute since im going on holidays tomorrow and I havent done anything in terms of packing or cleaning so i'm sorry for the shallow and short finish! Hope you guys enjoyed the write up and hopefully the video! Criticism, comments, tipps and anything else really can be put into the comments below! Enjoy the next weeks and see you watchbangers for the next watch!
  7. I'm looking for help identifying the movement in this vintage citizen watch. I picked it up from a flea market and quite like the look, especially since finding Citizen watches of this age seems somewhat rare. But, I haven't been able to figure out a model number so that I can start looking for a replacement stem/crown. I can find a serial number of some type that reads 360278 and the letter T under the balance. Any help would be greatly appreciated! See photos of top and bottom of movement.
  8. Dear All, I have purchased an old Citizen Leopard from Yahoo Auctions for a reasonable price. Of course you get what you pay for and it is a non-working watch. From the case to dial everything looks clean yet it is begging for a deep cleaning as I understand. Currently living in Japan and even a simple battery replacement is quite expensive, between ¥1000-¥1500 (roughly $10-15). Until now all the shops I consulted asked me at least ¥20.000 ($200) for servicing and not guaranteed, and even though they may fail, it will still cost me ¥3000-¥5000. Long story short, it is really expensive to have your watched serviced here and takes a lot of time (fastest shop was1.5 months). So I decided to disassemble it by myself but cannot find any information about the movement. No service manuals. Also I searched the forum and couldn't find one either. Can someone kindly guide me to find one? I know Leopard series based on caliber 7230 but that's all I got. My watch has caliber 7203 (according to back cover). I don't have all the necessary tools but I count on my ignorance :). Closest thing to a guide I found is the attached file (source: https://vintagecitizenwatches.com/2015/01/17/citizen-leopard-28800-4-720032ta/ ). Thank you all in advance.
  9. Hello everybody,I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos. Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it. Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement. Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling. But the biggest problems are this. Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat Stay tuned
  10. Hi Everyone! I have been practicing watch servicing these past months. So far I have successfully serviced a ST36 (ETA6497 clone), thanks to Mark's watch repair course which is awesome! I have also tried to service a NH25A, and messed up the hairpsring (replacement on the way), and a Miyota 8215. Everything was going well with the 8215 until I reassembled the train bridge and noticed that the escape wheel wobbles when I turn the wheels. My guess is that I accidentally broke off the upper pivot during cleaning. I was looking for a replacement escape wheel and found it at Cousin's, but they are out of stock. Anyone know any other place I could get one? Thanks. PS: Trying to keep a positive attitude after messing up two movements, but practice makes perfect. :)
  11. Hello watchmakers! I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch. I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor.. It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job.. Any advice would be helpful thank you.
  12. Hello, I started new project - Citizen 67-9119. It's seventies chronograph based on 8110A movement. Watch came to me as "fully working in great condition" As you can see there isn't crystal. The one which was here had chip and wasn't set properly in bezel so when i turned the watch it fall on the floor and broke. As you can see dial is in quite good condition, only it needs to be relumed. Hands needs to be repainted and relumed too. Movement works well but it is too speedy ( +3 min/24h). Chrono buttons work properly, only the hour counter stops at "3h" position so I must to take a look here. I striped down the watch and disassembled movement. There was some much oil everywhere so the cleaning is required.
  13. Hello, I have a j810 movement that needs a stem and crown. Can’t find part numbers. Citizen eco-drive j810-s088232.
  14. Hello dear watch repairers. I am disassembling a vintage citizen caliber 0200. It is a manual wind caliber with 21 jewels. I usually do not have much problem disassembling simple movement like this. However, the rachet wheel screw is very stiff and won't move at all. I tried to unscrew it anti-clockwise with nicely fitting screwdriver but it is stuck. Actually I have an bad experience with a citizen movement like this before. It was cal.1801, very similar to 0200 and only difference was the date function. I had same issue with the rachet wheel screw and I ended up breaking the screw. The head part of the screw came apart. Is this a typical issue with citizen calibers?? or am I doing it wrong?? Please help me out! caliber 0200.
  15. Is it possible to purchase parts for a Citizen 8228A (Miyota) movement. I have a rather beat up old example, which is missing the tip of one of the winder gears. I suspect the answer is going to be, no, you would need to find the parts from another damaged example. I did look on Cousins, but the part I need is not listed. Initially I suspected the only issue with it was the balance, and spent a little time tickling the hairspring back into shape, only to then figure out that while the winder made the right noises, it wasn't actually driving the mainspring, due to the missing pinion tip.
  16. Hey guys anybody out there know how to get into these big companies,what qualities should one poses or what course should we do?
  17. Hey guys need some advice and a talk about my watch, actually it is my dad's and want to repair and gift him on his birthday,as I am falling a little short on money I hope I could fix this myself!
  18. Hello! By any chance, does anyone have the service manual / troubleshooting for the Citizen U600 movement? Thank you, Bogdan
  19. Greetings all, i have a ladies eco drive which was non functional. Tried to charge the battery to no avail. Watch is probably from around 2010. Purchased a new factory power cell and installed it. After a few hours under light, I checked the cell to see if it was charging and it was. Put the watch on the “analyzer” that is part of the battery tester and it indicated power moving through the movement. Hands move 2-4 minutes and then stop. If I uninstall battery and reinstall they move 2-4 minutes then stop. So, any idea as to what else the problem may be. A visual inspection of the movement shows no signs of oxidation or water intrusion. Crown is functional to set time without issue. Crystal is clear and unobstructed. Thanks
  20. Hello, I've been drafted to try to replace my brothers crystal with a sapphire one and also replace the battery/capacitor. I believe I have all the tools from my last project and I've watched some videos, etc. I was wondering if there is anything I should know before I go to ordering the parts. Please and Thanks in advance
  21. I feel like I have painted myself in a corner with this one... Ok, I will try to make this story short. I bought a CA4148 Citizen Eco Drive a short time ago in a bargain store (sometimes there actually are bargains in bargain stores), I really wanted a solar watch. This one to be more specific: http://webdev.citizenwatch.com/en-ca/watches/watch-detail/?model=CA4148-00L It came without a box, papers etc... no worries, it has a Eco-Drive B620 movement, I know the type and where to get a capacitor. So far the watch is great, no issues. The only concern I have is the watch band, it is super comfortable but as with all leather watch bands, they go. I checked online and I did find a replacement watch band but then I would be getting the same durability. So I was looking for a black metal band, a 26mm band wherein the problem... There's a 16mm notch for the spring bar...sigh... I was thinking of getting one of these bands and taking out the top links which would leave the middle link exposed which would fit in the 16 mm area as in the pic below. Anyone ever try this type of surgery ?
  22. Hi mark, i have a vintage citizen that looks abit like a rolex datejust that i bought it at a flea market. Ok, so I'm trying to restore it. Relume, complete movement service overhaul, change a new crystal and waterproof. I try to handwind it but it doesnt work. So i teardown the whole movement. The movement is a bit rusty, i have remove the rust and clean the whole thing using aeroplane paraffin. So i suspect maybe the mainspring has kink or something, so i found used mainspring from my watch spart part box. And i assemble it. The balance wheel start to move. But it swinging slowly. Im not sure, maybe something wrong with the mainspring. It maybe be either magnetize or the arbor doesn't in place. Is that true mark? Could u verify? Im sad that im dont live in the uk if not cousins do sell the mainspring with a complete barrel and it cost 5-6 quid. Thanks. If its something wrong the mainspring then tmr im gonna give them a call to the watch shop that i frequently patronized to double check whether do they sell. Thanks. Ps. I check the balance stuff using my eye loupe and the top and bottom pivot looks fine.
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