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  1. Hello all. Can anyone inform me if the crystal on this model is a simple press fit, or if it needs adhesive, or other fixing method (e.g gasket or tension ring. just need to know what I might need to order in advance. (The photo is of an undamaged version. Mine has shattered.) Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi Watch bangers! I did actually make it a personal goal of mine to present a watch every week but real-life caught up and ive been busy helping people move around haha. Bit nevertheless I am a week late but have another beautifull watch and project report for you guys! This watch was one of a few which I presented my Mother for her birthday to let her decide which one I should fix for her. She chose this vintage Seiko 4206A which I got from Ebay and so I sat down and got to work. Now I bought this watch online because I was really surprised at the remaining quality of the original dials and how there where still so many of them. After purchasing one and reading up a bit online it turned out that this movement line was particularly prone to behave irrationally or to repair so I kind of messe dup but nevertheless, I faced my challenge! The watch on arrival: Disassembly 1. Remove the watch case by unscrewing the back and removing the stem 2. Remove the Watch hands 3. Release the Dial feet from the back with the small levelr at the 10 and the 4 Position I think and remove the dial. As you can see it is in pretty good condition and has a very pretty sunbust effect. There is a slight stain though around the “ Automatic” text which left me kind of clueless since it is a metal surface and I wouldn’t really know what would stain it in such a way. I decided to leave it be to minimize the risk of further damage. Heres a close up picture: 4. Remove the Day clip and the Day wheel underneath it. This revealed a very interesting sping-like swan neck system for the day-wheel quick set system. Never seen that before! 5. Then remove the Day wheel spring and the 24 Hour day turning wheel. 6. Now you can unscrew and remove the main setting cover plate and the attached date wheel. 7. Take away the ( im not sure what this part really is called) but it is part of the quick set system which hooks into the second clutch wheel. 8. Now remove the Date Spring and lever, the bottom day wheel and the hour wheel to remove some more from the front side. 9. Remove the one translation wheel and the setting system sub cover which also separated the two clutches. 10. And finally take out the clitches and the yoke, setting system to completely disassembly the front side. Now you can turn the movement so we can work further on the back side. 11. Remove the Rotor 12. Take off the Automatic module 13. Remove the Winding wheel Y ratchet. I did try to remove the winding wheel in the first run but for some reason the screw did not watch to budge so I left it in for the picture. Off camera however I eventually did make. 14. Remove the elegant arching balance wheel. I was really surprised to see this in this kind of movement since I thought that this kind of design was only present in really high end watches. Interestingly enough the 4206 B however has the classical one winged balance. 15. Remove the Pallet fork system ( sorry for the blurry focus) 16. Take off the main bridge and and the small spring attached to one of the screws. 17. Pick out the Barrel, its ratchet and the 4th and 5th wheel. Interestingly enough the gears wheels have as many holes in them as the number which is kind of cool! 18. Now focus on the little winding module on the bottom right. Remove the translation wheel, the spring and the small bridge to take it out completely. 19. Almost done! Take of the final bridge which holds down the 6th wheel and the escapement. 20. And finally remove the 6th wheel and the escapement wheel. With that, we have completed the disassembly of the Seiko 4206A. Cleaning For cleaning im still sticking to the good old hand cleaning method. So this means that I let the individual parts marinade in lighter fuel for a while before giving them a scrub and rinsing them of in Isopropanal alcohol. I was thinking about dipping my toes into the ultrasonic cleaning branch but im unsure what fluids to buy and what parts I cannot drop into the cleaner so I think ill stay with what works at the moment. Additionally im broke haha. Mainspring service Now as always I did not have a spare Mainspring at hand so I removed the spring by hand and checked it out: As you can see it is / was absolutely disgusting haha so I gave It a good rub down in lighter fluid and isopropanol and the paper used for that was absolutely nasty in the end, see for yourself: However, I did clean it nicely I think and lubricated the spring with Moebius 8200 and the barrel wit Moebius 8217 before winding the spring back in carefully. After closing the barrel I did a mainspring wind test with the winding wheel and it had tension on it so it seems like I did a decent enough job. Lubrication Moebius 9010 – All jewels aside from the pallet fork jewel pivots Moebius HP 1300 – For parts which turn a bit slower. Between the arbour and the watches wheel, the barrel pivot in the main bridge or the metal pivots for translation wheels for example. But that’s just my personal tase Moebius 8200 – Used to lubricate the mainspring Moebius 8217 – Braking grease for automatic barrel wall Moebius 9415 – For the tip of the pallet fork jewels. Molycote DX Paste – Any strong friction contact points. So the setting and winding system basically Reassembly For the reassembly of course you just follow the above given steps and pictures from the disassembly backwards. Ive been thinking about making reassembly pictures as well, it would make the report way more comprehensive and would show more difficult nifty parts for example shock and balance jewel lubrication. However it would be way more annoying to take the pictures and it would cost me a lot more time. What do you all think? Timegrapher Test Okey, so once I’ve cleaned everything it was time to put my work to the test and I strapped the watch into the timegrapher. And this is the catastrophic result: This was the start of the snowstorm like reading which followed. It couldn’t really pick anything up and I was just devastated. Because I did not have any replacement balance on hand, I was desperate and opted to measuring the Rate my eye and stop watch. As you can think, this did not end up well so I ordered a lot of a few spare movement to butcher them for the balance. After placing in the 4th replacement balance however, I managed to get a decent reading. The Amplitide could be better, but this is the way I left it in the end haha. Final Results: After the timegrapher drama I closed the back up and attached a basic rubber strap for testing purposes. And from here on its basically B-Roll pictures! Here is a comparison of the movements size to my pinkie finger! And here the final satisfying shot: So yeah all in all a stressful but also fun little project which I could conclude by gifting the watch to my mother. I was very surprised to see the winged balance as well as challenged by working on a movement of this size but in the end I managed! I hope you all enjoyed reading this and that the guide may help other hobbysts or even professionals ( haha who am I kidding) in the future. Any comments, questions or criticism is of course welcome! If you guys would like the full commentated 4K Macro video of the whole process, ive uploaded it to my Youtube channel here and it would bring me great joy if you would watch it! And so as always watch bangers... Stay safe and healthy and till next time!
  3. Hi WRT, I'm totally new to the world of watches. I've had this Seiko SRZ392P1 for a couple of years. I recently took it to a watch repairer to get a battery change and it seems he has lost a part and managed to scratch the backcase in the process. At the moment the crown won't lock in place/wind, soooo, I'm curious to learn how to replace it myself. How would I identify the necessary/missing part?
  4. I picked up a badly scratched and very dirty Seiko quartz chronograph (7T94 0BS0) on Ebay for next to nothing. Idea was to practice stripping down a watch with pushers, to try a few case renovation techniques and have a general fiddle. A had a little bit of an issue with the fact the previous owner had made a dog's dinner of the battery bay (that was attended to). Mucking about - I decided to give it face-lift. A sort of a nod to speedmaster mkii...or not... Anyway....I'm pleased with it... and will wear it... leather strap? James.
  5. I am looking for a case ring for a Seiko 5, 6119-8440 case. The case reads o51772 Japan F. Can anyone help? Thank you
  6. I have a Seiko watch that I purchased long time ago. It is a two handed dress watch. Recently, I took the watch to the shop to replace battery. But I was told that the quartz movement is no longer working. I have seen replacement quartz movements on Amazon. How can I find a matching quartz movement? Shall I just measure the diameter and thickness of the quartz movement?
  7. Hi what nummer has the crown of the 8273, need s replacement
  8. Hello all, I required a movement to fit in a very small space and opted for the Hattori VX01. I am embarrassed to admit that I unsure how to keep the battery (379) in place. The metal arms either side don't look to me as if they are supposed to be levered up onto the battery, especially as one has the end angled down towards the movement. If anyone has worked with the VX01 or a similar movement I would very much appreciate the benefit of your knowledge.
  9. Hi All Any ideas how I can improve the look of this calendar ring? The staining seems to have got underneath the lacquer. I've not tried anything yet as I'm a little hesitant at using any liquid on it for fear of damaging the lacquer further. i'm still learning... Many thanks
  10. Hi I've tried to service a tiny Seiko 2601 Automatic movement very small for me (18 mm) So I finished yesterday all was ok I've rewinded and I was happy because the balance started I've not checked amplitude or precision (for me just ticking it's already something) Today I check and the watch have stopped and do not restart even when I rewind manually. Now when I put the main spring back in the barrel I've broken the end part at the opposite side of the pinion it was like a V because I don't have a main spring rewinder so I make it manually (Shame on me). So I suspect that the main spring is not clamped in the barrel and it's just spinning inside without giving any power to the movement. The question is what method can I use to check my assumption. Not forget It's an automatic movement. Thanks
  11. Good day all, I'm a recent 30 year retiree and elected to start cleaning some of my older watches that ended up in a box wrapped in a towel. One in particular, a gift from my grandfather, began working with a new battery but the crystal appears foggy. I would appreciate specific instructions for removing the stem/ crown and cleaning the crystal from an 1980 Seiko with the 6030A movement. Thank you in advance. Regards, Rick
  12. I recently purchased what I call a “Franken-watch” Seiko from a seller on eBay from India. As I’m sure many of you know by now there are hundreds of listings (see screenshot below) for cheap Seiko watches with weird dials, most likely repainted. They aren’t fully “fake” as most of them come with genuine Seiko movements. My Retro Watches has a good video where he looks at a watch he bought from a dealer similar to this if you’re curious, see link below. https://youtu.be/G_m4b3OBEMI Anyways I thought one of these cheap weird watches would be a fun one to play around with as my first project, and I paid $20CAD for mine which I thought to be good especially if the movement inside was genuine Seiko. First problem I noticed was the bracelet (which was cheap and terrible) was held in by shoulder-less spring bars which would be fine if the lugs had holes but they do not so I had to saw the bracelet off so I could put another one on (see wreckage below). There’s more but I won’t bore you too much.. MY MAIN PROBLEM: The watch came with a Seiko 6349A (23J) movement which is a variation of the Seiko 6309 (17J) movement. The movement was held into the case only by the crown (see pictures below) and didn’t have a movement ring. As I understand this is bad because the movement isn’t securely held in the case by anything. I’ve tried to find one on eBay but I’ve had no luck, and I can’t find anywhere that has the ring size so I can’t try and find an aftermarket one. Does anyone know where I can get one of these movement holder rings? Is it even possible to get one off of CousinsUK or Esslinger or somewhere? Do any of you have one I could buy? I am very stuck and any help is greatly appreciated!
  13. Hi, Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached). No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw. I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now). Thanks! Rafael
  14. Hello all. I recently purchased what I though was a Seiko 5 project watch. The case back says the movement is a Seiko 6309- 7200 movement. However when I removed the works (and disassembled) it was not a 6309, at least I don't think it is. FE 5612 is stamped on the movement plate and when I looked that up I found pictures of the exact movement on the Ranfft Watches site. So I guess I have two questions. First did Seiko use this movement on their watches and somebody perhaps changed case back, or did someone replace the Seiko works with the FE 5612. Second, does anyone know of a location to find a service manual for the FE 5612 movement? It does not seem to want to go back together nicely (do they ever?) and I am wondering if I have something misplaced as the only description I could find states: "Strange. Train and Hand Gear separately driven by barrel (cf. MSR T43)." I also need a stem and crown and don't have a part number. Thanks for any and all information.
  15. Hello guys, I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume. Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well. After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case. Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect: Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch. VID_20190927_195610.mp4
  16. Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence. Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher: Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me. Let's crack it open and see what we can do. . Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud. Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel. Few hours of sweat later: Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel. Let's check out what else I saw: Some places are absolutely flooded. While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom. Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job. All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later: Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself. Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
  17. Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great. Thanks
  18. I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
  19. I'm about to start working on a Seiko 6602 and would like to be able to put it on the timegrapher before and after and see how well it works but i'm struggling to identify the correct lift angle for it. It seems to be missing from all the general lift angle lists I've come across. I've read in other posts that most Seiko's are either 52 / 54.5 but which is it for this movement, can anyone help please?
  20. Hello guys. This is my last project – Seiko 6139-6010 aka Bruce Lee. Watch is from ‘69and it is based on the 6139A movement. Nice shot for the 50th Seiko anniversary of first automatic chronograph development. So please see the pictures below from all restoration proces. It took me 3-4 evenings. The watch came to me as non runner. Crystal was scratchy with many chips. Dial was dirty and dusty with signs of water damages. Hands lost their lume. Day calendar was loosen and didn’t work properly. Movement was complete but very dirty and dry – there weren’t any residues of old oil in the jewels. Somewhere were signs of water flood. I dissasembled movement and I gave it a bath in ultrasonic cleaner then i’ve assembled and oiled movement. Star disk od date wheel was repaird with small amouth of resin glue. Movement had tend to stop sometimes. Inspection showed that the tiny chip on the bottom pivot of the escape wheel. It was hard to see it. After replacment movement ran as a champ. I polished the hands cause there was rust and gave them new lume. Dial was cleaned. I didn’t touch the lume on the hours indexes. I was affraid to screw up it. I think now it is quite good despite the fact that the lume does not glow. Orginal crystal was polished but I decide that in the future I will replace it. Case and caseback got some polish works only with polishing paste, not too much cause I didn’t want to loose the sharpnes of orginal edges – as usual I did it. Bracelet was matted with abrasive wool. Everything was mix up and combined and there is the result. After measurments on timegrapher and adjustment it is a nice timekeeper. An amplitude satisfy me as well. Now I am enjoy to wear it. Please let me know what do you think of this restoration project and about my works on it. I appreciate your comment and your spend time. Cheers folks VID_20191016_170551.mp4 VID_20191017_195141.mp4
  21. I just received my Seiko 7006A that I bought off ebay. The watch appeared quite nice in the photos, but alas it wasn't in real life. The rotor had a "clunking" sound, as describe by the seller. Should be fixable.... When I opened it up, I couldn't get the movement out from the back. Was it a front loader? The crystal didn't look like it would come off with a crystal lift. After careful examination and prodding around. I managed to pry the movement ring off. Someone had glued the crystal on with so much glue that it seeped under the movement ring. When the movement came out, my heart sank. Someone had pried the dial off with so much force that it wrinkled the dial! He even broke 1 dial foot and bent the other. But the last straw was when I discovered the mainspring barrel had been damaged! I've searched cousins and ebay for a replacement and even a donor movement to no avail. Does anyone know if the barrels from other Seiko models will fit a 7006A? Like maybe a 7S26?
  22. Hello All. I'm a fellow watch enthusiast from the North-East of England. I hope everyone is keeping well. I recently bought myself a cheap watch repair kit, dusted off the old watch storage box and started to giving my watches the attention they required, it's been going quite well so far but do need some guidance with the correct steps of putting the workings and the case back on for my Accurist GMT Grand Complication, hopefully I will do a separate post on this with pics. Anyway hope everyone is having a decent Friday night.
  23. Howdy, Well, this is my first effort of a watch repair. I have been fascinated with watches, clocks and all kinds of mechanical things since a young age. I decided at this time that working on watches would be a great hobby/interest to take up in my later years. I have already spent some time learning to refurbish and repair fishing reels in the last few years. So here is my first repair attempt. Interest in tinkering watches started when I dropped my Seiko SKX009KD diver to the tile floor in the bathroom. Was not too good an idea to put a watch on there with a towel thrown over it, pulled the towel and down comes the watch, face down on the tile floor. Needless to say, I picked it up and took a look, nothing seen. Then I shake it and hear a rattle. Not too good! So I did some research on the 7S26C movements. Read a lot of information and watched a lot of videos. Thanks to all that makes this information available. So I purchased a cheap watch tool kit from Amazon. I had other watches that needed batteries and some strap work anyway. I knew the kit would not be 'pro' grade, but it was a nice kit with all the basic tools needed. Back to the rattle, I figured the Oscillating Weight (OW) had become separated from the bearing. So I used the case back wrench in the kit and opened the back, and sure enough that was the problem. I looked on-line for a replacement OW but could not find any except one on Ebay for $35! So I decided, what the heck, I'll try to repair this one. So, here is what I did being a little mechanically inclined but never at this small a scale, I performed the following: 1) remove case back. 2) examine the OW, it was dislodged/loose from the bearing. 3) remove center OW bearing from center post. 4) place OW on a small anvil, then use a small pin punch from the kit as to carefully work the metal around the OW's hole as to make the bearing hole smaller. 6) After enough working with the punch, I took a smooth round stone and gently kept working the ID of the OW hole until it just would friction fit to the surface of the OW bearing. 7) carefully press fit the bearing into the OW, I knew too much pressure would ruin the small bearing races and ball bearings. 8) finalized fitting of the bearing to the OW by applying a very small amount of red Locktite thread locker using the end of a pin as an 'oiler'. 9) I then let the OW set for a day to cure the Locktite 10) install OW per alignment instructions in the 7S26C technical guide. At this time I also wound the mainspring up 8 turns to check the power, it ran for about 40 hours. 11) did not have any watch oil, so I used a very small amount of some 10W synthetic engine oil using a small pin as the oiler to lubricate the OW bearing ONLY. It appears to be a successful repair for now, watch been running great and keeping good time for about 2 months. I'm sure something else might have gotten damaged during the fall, especially the balance assembly, but then again the watch is working fine for now. I might use this particular watch to dive deeper into the 7S26 movement at a later time. Kind of happy for now. Got 2 other watches running with new batteries, fitted some straps and having fun with my new hobby. Look forward to learning some more. Now to find a 'bag o watches at a flea market and get busy. I know I'm going to need more and quality tools down the road, that's OK with me. Cheers, Chip ---
  24. I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well. Thanks in advice for any advice.0
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