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Found 41 results

  1. WRT Members, I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help. It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring. Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up. There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw. I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet. NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02 Any info/help is greatly appreciated. Kind Regards, -Paul
  2. Hello. I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch. I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down. What could be done in this situation? Thanks!
  3. Hello watchmakers! I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch. I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor.. It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job.. Any advice would be helpful thank you.
  4. Hello I had a chance to acquire to two watch movement+dial sets which are from JLC and AP However, I am having trouble finding cases to fit these. Could anyone help me find cases that would fit these movements? Non genuine cases are OK.
  5. Hello. I recently serviced a PUW 1561 automatic movement. This was my first time servicing automatic movement and I am not confident on lubricating barrel wall. I purchased Moebius 8217, breaking grease for the barrel wall. The whole service was a quite long process for me so I will just get to my point. On the cleaned barrel wall, I applied thin layer of 8217 thinking that too much would not do any good. Then I placed the mainspring and applied 3 drops of Moebius 8200 before closed the barrel cap. After I had assembled the watch, I tried winding it. It wound well but I could hear the mainspring slip in side the barrel when I felt some tension on the crown as I was winding. I know that automatic mainspring slips along the barrel wheel but never experienced such 'obvious' slipping sound. I guess the timegrapher tells that service was not that bad but I just don't feel right when hand winding the watch. Is it something wrong in the barrel? May be I should have applied the 8217 more thicker? Thanks for always helping me out.
  6. So im going to replace this band. A straight replacement band would be easy buy i want to change it with a leather without using a 10mm band what would be the best way to go about this?
  7. Hello watchmakers! Now I am working on a vintage bifora movement, Bifora Cal.812. I have ruined the hairspring while trying to fix the position of it on the balance wheel to adjust the bit error. I am searching for the balance complete or just the hairspring on ebay and other suppliers but I haven't been lucky. May be I need other keywords for my search. Could anyone help me find the part I need?? Thanks!
  8. Hello. I am working on this vintage A.Schild movement and a jewel on the wheel bridge. It is a jewel for the 3rd wheel but is cracked so needs replacement. I measured the outer and inner diameter and they are 1.2mm and 0.17mm respectively. Could any one help me find the replacement for this jewel?? I am always grateful for your help.
  9. Hello. Dear watchmakers. I have a very old timepiece from Rolex that I am about to work on.. From googling, I found out that this is called "trench watch" that might had been used during WWI or any other war in that era ( 1910~1920) However, I could not figure out the reference no. of the movement. All I know about the movement is that it is 29mm in diameter and has 15 jewels. I am actually looking for a replacement movement for this watch since the mainspring must be replaced due to damage. Plus, I am also looking for the rachet wheel with "Rolex" engraved to replace the existing one. I have found similar movements on the web(the third photo added) but click part was not the same. I wonder if the one with different type of click would have parts that are replaceable. To sum up, my questions are 1) the reference of the movement. 2) how I can get parts or the whole movement for replacement 3) does a movement with different click type would be suitable for replacement. Thanks and I wish you a great day.
  10. Hello. I am now working on a vintage "trench watch" movement from 1910s that I mentioned before with a question regarding identification of the movement. (I still haven't got the exact ref. of the movement.) As I was disassembling the movement, my screwdriver slipped and broke one of the parts that function as a spring for the click. I tried looking for replacement but I am not sure what I should look for. Also, one of the jewels on the wheel bridge is broken so I need a jewel as well. Could anyone advice me on how to find the correct part for click spring and the jewel for the wheel bridge?? **Could the click spring be put back together?? Thanks. You are always of great help.
  11. Hello. I am working on a vintage piece but I could not find the name(ref no.) of the movement. Could anyone tell me the name of this movement?? All I know is that it has "AS" written on the mainplate. Thanks!
  12. Hello all, I'm in desperate need to find servicing within a reasonable price range for my two omega constellations f300hz. I'm having a very hard process of finding a place that will actually service these watches besides omega itself. Omega's servicing for these watches start at 1200.00 a pop + nearly half a year wait time; quite expensive and time consuming..Does anyone on here recommend a place to get these watches serviced stateside..It would be great if they are in NYC too. This young watch collector would be so appreciative if someone could help out. Thanks, Cameron
  13. Hello dear watchmakers. I am about to work on a Civis vintage watch from Germany. The case of the watch looks like a typical watch case with a snap-off back. However, the crown and stem won't come out of the case and what seems like an inner casing is actually part of the case. Frustrated, I turned the watch over to find any opening on the bezel but it is also a part of the case. How could I get the movement out of the case?? Any advice would be a great help. Thank you.
  14. Hello dear watch repairers. I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement. The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance. I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high. However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state. I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result. What do you think is the problem and what can be done?? I am always thankful for your help. this is when fully wound After 5 minutes
  15. Most of my learning efforts are on old, vintage movements; some in great shape, some not so much. I often find a screw or two that are stuck tight. Not rusted, just "aged-in-place" I try typically to put a drop of 9010 on the back side of the screw hole and let them sit and soak. Sometimes this works well. I gently heat them by moving my work light close to the movement and allow them to cool which may help move lubricant into the threads. When this doesn't work, I'm stuck (no pun intended). Have you a method that also help loosen these old screws up? If so, please share it. Thanks, RMD
  16. My great Aunt died a couple years back. She had had been married to a man that owned a jewelry store back in the early 80's. In her estate was a number of great treasures and even literal gems. After the estate sale not much was left, but I did end up with what Ive deduced to be a Vintage Elma watch parts cleaner. And that is about as much as I have been able to figure out. None of the searches I've performed on the internet have returned with the exact model that I have. Not even an image... Similar , yes. The same . no. .. I don't have a clue as to how to operate any watch parts cleaner, much less one with minimal text (german) to clue one in on function of switches and dials. So, I can't verify it is in working order. I did notice that the plug had a short in it so I replaced that, Plugged it in and a light above the switch lights up after being flipped, but again end of my road of investigation... So basically, I would really appreciate any information at all about this machine
  17. I have been working on a lovely old 1924 Omega 23.7 S.T2 gents' wristwatch and have had some limited success in stripping down, servicing and reassembly in that the movement now works and keeps good time. However, on inspecting the parts as I went, I realised that the crown and stem weren't original, explaining why it kept falling out. So I ordered a replacement Omega stem for the exact calibre from Cousins, which arrived today. However, thinking this would be the issue resolved, I was disappointed to find after closer examination of the keyless works, that the pivot shaft end of the stem will not slide home through the pivot shaft hole. I have included photos the best I can to illustrate the problem with some additional photos of the watch for reference. I have been watchmaking as a hobby for about 8 months and this looks like a pretty advanced problem to solve. If anyone has any ideas how I can get the stem engaged in the pivot hole or any other suggestions, and really appreciate hearing from you.
  18. Hello dear watchmakers. Last week, I was lucky enough to get my self a beautiful vintage Seiko chronograph watch with 7015 movement. The overall condition looked great so I did not expect any problem with the watch. However, over the last few days, I noticed that this watch stops around 1~2am when the day disk moves to the next day. At first, I thought there was no residual power in the mainspring but the watch won't start after being shaken for some time. It runs well and keeps good timing after I move the day disk manually by adjusting hands by crown till the next night around 1 am. Could you please give me any ideas on this issue?? I really love this watch and want to make this watch perfectly functional. Thank you. I put some photo of the watch and what timegrapher tells
  19. Hello.I have been working on a vintage movement. It is German movement, PUW 1561. It is automatic and has date with quickset function by pulling and pushing back the crown. Before I disassembled it, the quickset did not work instead the date changed as hands passed 00:00. However, as I am trying to put the watch back, the date won't change either by quickset or just manually. The date disk won't move no matter how long I move the hands. I think I have assembled the date function part wrong but I have no idea how the parts should fit it. I read a post about servicing this same movement but it did not work for me. (http://watchguy.co.uk/service-arowe-puw-1561/) Could anyone help me how to put the date parts back in?? I attached a photo of the movement I am working on.
  20. I recently found a vintage Pobeda wristwatch in my basement, model 1980-1989. Sadly, it is very old and not maintained at all, maybe since the early 1990s. It is mechanical, so I tried to wind it, but of course it couldn't wind. There is a resistant when I try to do it, so I opened its back and checked what's going on. It appears to me, that the Crown Wheel and the Ratchet Wheel are either too tight, or not lubricated/rusty or whatever the reason may be. Also I found out that when I move the watch around, it winds itself, as if it is an automatic one (it certainly does NOT have any rotor, so that is weird). So I was wondering what has to be done, at this moment I don't have any repair tools. If someone can at least give me a direction as to what has to be done, I could search for some tools. I'm not so worried about the watch itself, although it has a sentimental meaning to me, but am curious to find out what the reason for the problem is.
  21. Hello, I have recently bought and serviced this lovely 100 year old 'Spikins from Dent' pocket watch. The movement seems higher quality than some watches of this era that I've serviced, having 15 jewels, and being warranted English. It is housed in a solid silver Dennison Watch Case Co. case and has a 1918 Birmingham hallmark. Given the above info and the attached photos, would anybody be able to identify and tell me whether this is any particular brand of movement? I notice an S in a five-pointed star on the train bridge - is this a trade mark on a movement?
  22. Hi I have a movement which I think has some serious problem. I serviced it a week ago but the timegraph shows great gap between results with dial up position and dial down position. Also the balance seems a little shaky from horizontal view when watch is running. What can be done to make this watch run in appropriate way?
  23. Hello fellow watch repairers. I recently serviced a vintage watch which was in quite nice running condition(rate:+10, amp:270, b/e: 0.3). After cleaned and assembled, the movement ran with a bit lower amplitude than before(amp: 240~250) but it did not stop for hours. I thought that amplitude will get back to normal level after a day or so and I reinstalled hands to put the movement back in to the case. However, only after few minutes, the watch stopped. I felt that something went wrong when putting hands back in so I removed the hour and minute hands. I was about to move on to the second hand and I noticed that second hand was ticking again. This is my first time dealing with this kind of situation. Please I need your help.
  24. Hello. I am about to work on a movement which was cased in watch from 'Garrard'. The watch was cased in Dennison case made in England. I want to know the name of this movement but I have no clue. Please I need your help!
  25. OK, I disassembled the Bulova 11ac movement and wonder if this wheel is supposed to stick there on the wheel bridge. Should I take the wheel apart from the bridge as well? If it is necessary, how can I take it apart?
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