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  1. Hi, a few days ago i bought a preziosa skin diver, the movement is ok, but there isn't the bezel, where i can find a bezel as in the photos, or a bezel that is compatible?
  2. Greetings All, Hope that all are doing well - in this crazy COVID world. I recently acquired a 1958 Rolex Ref. 6569 with a Cal. 1030 movement. All-in-all very nice and clean for her age - and runs very well. The winding pinion and clutch wheel had worn each other out - so I found NOS Rolex parts and replaced those. I though the watch deserved the new parts. It appeared to have been serviced in the last 10 years - because everything looked clean and the oil looked good (and present). Since the watch seemed to be running well and in good health (other than the winding pinion and clutch wheel) - I didn't do a complete service. I didn't think it was worth the risk. However, it seems to me that the watch is harder to wind than I would expect. I did do a full service on a 1215 that I bought for my wife (ref. 6694). It needed everything - but an awesome running movement when I was finished. The 1215 is of course a manual wind - but similar to the 1030. The 1215 winds lightly and smoothly as one would expect. The 1030 is "stiff". I haven't taken the barrel apart - but have just ordered some new mainsprings. Is there anything tricky about replacing the auto mainspring in a 1030? Or is more or less like any modern auto? Clean the barrel; apply braking grease to wall; fit spring; fit arbor - oil lightly at spring-arbor interface; replace lid? Also - I was only able to find a parts-list for this movement. Anyone know where a tech/service sheet (or similar) may be found? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. -Paul
  3. Ok, I need the WRT detectives out there and their help. I've searched and as far as I can tell this symbol or trademark belongs to the Chicago Watch Co. 1895-1903 and made by Elgin. The movement came in an old but intact tin stamped "Elgin Watch Co. I looked up the serial # on PWD.com under 'Chicago' and that's what came up. But, there are a few pics of others and mine looks nothing like any of them nor has this trademark. Anyone recognize this trademark? It's a size 18s with no case. Aaaand I just noticed I didn't provide the serial number. I'll post it here in a bit. Thanks Mike
  4. Does anyone have any more info on this watch movement? It's a small women's movement. Measures 21.5mm in diameter. Hour/minutes only. It's not an escapement I've seen in a watch before. The only marks I can find are the AS and 40(?). No name on dial either. Thanks!
  5. I recently came across this while digging thru a bag of watches. It looked interesting and all of the Google hits for "Swiss Made Timex" are in reference to the American Documents series. I've got to assume I'm not searching the right keywords. I was hoping somebody might have a little information on the subject. While looking recently, I couldn't locate almost any Swiss Made. Most of the watches I did find were quartz movements. Thanks for any insight the community can muster!
  6. I have a watch movement that I have hunting for a case for a long time now. I bought the movement rather cheaply as I absolutely love the patina on the dial. The movement is an Wittnauer 11arg (as 1361). When the rotor turns the automatic assembly slips (or maybe the mainspring). The pictured gear slips when the rotor turns. I can still wind the movement by hand however the automatic assembly slipping I believe causes the mainspring to unwind. Does anyone know what is wrong/ what I can do to remedy it? Thanks for your help, Amateurwatchbreaker
  7. I bought a vintage bulova sea king automatic at a antique mall for 80 dollars and I discovered the reason for its lower cost. It appears that it was someone's project watch that they sold. It has a 11 Anacd movement and the rotor is stuck. It can move but it grinds against the metal underneath it. The middle portion of the rotor(with the engraving) is loose and moves independently of the rest of the rotor. I have no clue how to remove the rotor as there are no screws on it. Is this a deeper problem than just the rotor or can I fix/ replace the rotor?
  8. Hi all-is there a name for the crescent shape of this fork and its purpose? Vague memory of seeing one like this but can't find where I had seen it. Thank ya MM
  9. Is this real? Thinking of bidding on it, but something seems off...
  10. Hello, Anyone here have an experience with a similar vintage Omega and knows how to remove the movement from the case? Tried rotating the movement (slightly, i'm afraid i'll break something) but with no luck. Thanks!
  11. Hello everyone. I have a really sad story and I am a complete amateur. I am a machinist for a living so I thought I would give a crack at making a frankenwatch, however it did not go as planned and now I have a movement with subdials that don’t work and a whole lot of parts and money invested and I don’t know what to do. I need the help of a professional. The donor movement was a NOS, new old stock, and was running perfectly, however I messed up almost everything attempting to make this watch. I will happily ship all of the parts needed to complete this watch and pay for any repair that need to be made and for the return shipping. I need the help of a professional how can repair and assemble the watch with the parts and return it to me. I will pay for everything, the labor, replacement parts, return shipping, I just need someone’s help. Details about the project: movement: valjoux 7733 dial: vintage NOS angelus chronograph dial case: custom machined case crystal: plexiglass
  12. Hello forum, this is my first time posting. I found my great-grandfathers Timex maybe about a year ago, and to my dismay, it wound right up some 50 years later. From what I can tell, it looks to be a viscount model maybe pre-1960s? Possibly closest to a model 31 movement. My area of expertise is really limited to owning battery operated watches, so I'm hoping someone could help. I was using my hand to hit a wrench for my car and I didn't even notice I had my watch on. The movement stopped and from then on it's been acting funky, basically just stopping randomly throughout the day, but then restarting. When I take off the case and manually wind the rotor with my fingers, it will continue to run for quite some time, but once I try to wind it with the crown and stem or maybe even shake the watch it may only last a few moments. I hope someone may be able to help me diagnose some potential sources of this, since I would love to keep wearing my great-grandfathers watch. I've attached pictures too
  13. I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
  14. I have a watch that I am fixing up for myself. After lots of research l, I concluded my watch is a 1960s Hamilton Stormking VII. As my watch needs a new crystal I ordered one from ebay that is for a Hamilton stormking VII. When I got it in I immediately realized that it doesn't fit. The replacement seems to me about 1mm larger than the original. (I dont have a caliper). Is this even a Hamilton Stormking VII? Or did I get the right crystal but I have to modify it before it fits?
  15. Hello, I have a lovely antique cylinder escapement pocket watch that I've serviced and got running beautifully but now I have a problem with the minute hand falling off. I think it's known as a pin hole fitting hand. On measuring the hand it shows approx. 0.40mm, and then on measuring the arbor diameter with the vernier guage, it's also 0.40mm so it's very near but won't even grip when mounted. Photos provided of the job. Does anybody have a technique I can use to get the hand to fit?
  16. Hi everyone! I'm J from USA. Could anyone please help and instruct me on the best way to set my Valjoux 72C? I have a Ref 6036 and don't want to ruin it! Thanks in advance!
  17. I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well. Thanks in advice for any advice.0
  18. Hello. Dear watchmakers. I have a very old timepiece from Rolex that I am about to work on.. From googling, I found out that this is called "trench watch" that might had been used during WWI or any other war in that era ( 1910~1920) However, I could not figure out the reference no. of the movement. All I know about the movement is that it is 29mm in diameter and has 15 jewels. I am actually looking for a replacement movement for this watch since the mainspring must be replaced due to damage. Plus, I am also looking for the rachet wheel with "Rolex" engraved to replace the existing one. I have found similar movements on the web(the third photo added) but click part was not the same. I wonder if the one with different type of click would have parts that are replaceable. To sum up, my questions are 1) the reference of the movement. 2) how I can get parts or the whole movement for replacement 3) does a movement with different click type would be suitable for replacement. Thanks and I wish you a great day.
  19. All, I have acquired what I believe to be a WW II era wristwatch. It was "made" (offered?) by Mulco. The movement is an FHF 150 (with sweep wheel/center seconds). The case is from "ID" (which is why I believe it to be WW II era). Here is the face - still cased... Here is the inside of the case back... The dial side uncased... And the back (uncased)... I am not familiar with this movement at all. It's the first time I have seen an FHF. It's also the first time that I have seen (in person) a movement with a sweep wheel. I have ordered the Bergeon/Presto puller for odd number spokes. I assume there is isn't anything too strange with these old center-second movements other than the sweep wheel (removal and replacement). But would appreciate any info, cautions, warnings etc. that I might need if attempting to service myself. It's not a family heirloom or anything, but I don't want to kill a vintage movement. Also curious about watch itself if anyone knows anything about the original Mulco company and it's watches. Kind Regards, -Paul
  20. A vintage Elgin 15/0, Gr 559. I took it down, cleaned and lubricated it and it is gaining 15 minutes/24 hours. I have looked at the HS, it appears to be perfect, clean, flat, not magnetized (de-magged the movement X 3 already), and in position between the regulator pins. Not hung on the center wheel. Correct mainspring, and balance is not knocking. I do not remember amplitude, but IIRC, it was above 22 which is O.K. by me with the movement. Please give me some ideas as to how to correct this. It doesn't seem like there are enough timing washers in the world to slow this down! Thanks, RMD
  21. Hello watchmakers! I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch. I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor.. It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job.. Any advice would be helpful thank you.
  22. Anyone know a supplier that would have orient watch parts. In general orient doesn’t supply parts I guess and it’s been hard to find on eBay. I have an EM60 repair. The crystal was damaged and whatever damaged it burned through and burnt the inner bezel and I cannot find a bezel with the same markings. Any help would be awesome.
  23. WRT Members, I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help. It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring. Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up. There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw. I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet. NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02 Any info/help is greatly appreciated. Kind Regards, -Paul
  24. Just finished a vintage build with correct working seconds at the six position. Hard to find a good reissue so I made my own with a aftermarket case and a dial made by me from scratch. logo is also my logo. Looks very professional maybe I could get some opinions from you guys. I have 25 more dials with different designs from single sub seconds to 2 and 3 eye chronographs. Its hard to find the cases I want. I guess I will settle with aftermarket cases for now and modify them.
  25. Hello. I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch. I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down. What could be done in this situation? Thanks!
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