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AdamC

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AdamC last won the day on May 31 2018

AdamC had the most liked content!

About AdamC

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast
  • Birthday October 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire, England
  • Interests
    Travel, photography, genealogy, watchmaking

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  1. Possibly. If it unwound uncontrolled then more likely. Inspect the pivots and jewel holes under high magnification to check before reassembly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Sounds resourceful. I’ve resorted to similar inventive methods in the past. To be honest, it’s probably unlikely the soft pegwood would have caused damage. It will just need a thorough clean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. You would need to remove the calendar mechanism to reveal the click. I’ve added a photo again showing the brass plate removed. You can then release the mainspring tension using the crown as normal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I serviced one of these about a couple of week ago. I found the ratchet wheel (which is what it is) was friction fitted to the barrel arbor. With some careful encouragement with 120 screwdriver, turning the driver as I rotated the barrel, the wheel popped off. Of course, once off, the arbor was freed from the barrel. Refitting was done using brass tweezers, again rotating while pushing down (not much force required). The servicing went relatively well and the watch is now winds perfectly and is ticking away happily! Hope that helps? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Wow, I agree that the top plate bridges look like they’ve been re-fabricated. I can see the similarity of the AS 52/202 calibers. Perhaps as Nucejoe suggested, it might be worth seeing if you can find a similar hairspring that will fit the balance wheel as it’s going to be almost impossible to get an exact replacement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. So as Rogart63 said, do you have a photo of the other side, and another preferably with the escapement removed? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. You will see from s movement I worked on a few weeks ago that it has the same shield logo with a T in it. This movement was Dimier Frères and was very similar to an AS 676. I’m not sure if this will help you but my watch was from the same era (1920s). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thank you both. You have solved my mystery! Having checked your suggestions on the caliber, comparing the top plate against the illustrations, according to Ranfft it is a 2-10.5’’’. Now need to select a suitable mainspring according to the Ranfft parameters as my materials house doesn’t list this caliber, and looks like I’ll have to settle for one that is 0.005 stronger (.115) but I guess it will be alright. Thanks again for your help. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Hello, Would anybody have any idea which make/caliber watch movement this is based on the photos provided. I can only find the L in the fan-like shape symbol on the bottom plate. Nothing underneath the balance as expected. I'm guessing it is from the 1920's era. Thanks, Adam
  10. LIt’s not just a matter of corrosion is it? I had a movement a few weeks ago where the stem was so badly corroded to the setting lever and yoke that it took several attempts over about 3 days of applying very small amounts of penetrating oil to that area finally release it. I’m not suggesting WD40 is an accepted way to free rusted components but it worked for me without damage.
  11. Perfect. Thank you, you have solved my mystery. Surprisingly, I've worked on a few pocket watches in the past but never come across one like this. @oldhippy Thanks for your confirmation. The outer case appears to be gold and has 14K stamped on it with what looks like a squirrel logo underneath (again not seen this before) but unfortunately no hallmark letter to identify the year. On the inner dust cover, it has CUIVRE stamped on it (french for copper). So this really is quite an unusual watch. I've worked on cylinder movements on pocket watches before so thankfully understand some of its peculiarities. I'm going to hazard a guess that the watch is from around 1900.
  12. Thanks for your interest. Anti-clockwise, the sliding and winding pinion rotate and the yoke rises and falls as the sliding pinion turns. Clockwise, the winding pinion only rotates and begins winding the mainspring.
  13. It's been a while since I've worked on a movement as old as this. A friend asked me to look at whether I could get his great-grandmother's watch working again. When I first saw it, I thought it was an old 1920's ladies wristwatch, though thought it odd that the winding stem is at 12. However, on closer examination, it resembles more of an old pocket watch movement. Now amazingly, the watch is ticking when wound but I cannot pull the stem to set the hands. On removing the dial, I can see the yoke and yoke spring on the opposite side. But would I be right in thinking that it is missing the setting lever? There is a space that looks suspiciously like there could have been a setting lever there once but I could be wrong. I'd also be interested to hear your opinions on the age of the movement. I'm thinking around 1900. What's more surprising is that when the case is closed, you don't see the chipped porcelain around the edges, so thick is the bevel. It looks so nice and ornate and when the case is closed. Would love to be able repair but have my doubts. Any ideas about the keyless works? Thanks in advance.
  14. Well guys, the Sanford watch is finally reassembled, on my wrist, and ticking away at a fast rate of knots being a Hi-Beat ETA 2832 movement. Timed on my timegrapher, it’s gaining about 1 minute per day but I’m going to wear it for a day and see how it performs before I think about adjusting it. Thanks again for your help, which has made the whole repair process a pleasure for this movement; definitely the most ambitious project I’ve taken on. It’s going to make my 82 year old stepfather a very happy man to be reunited with the watch he’s loved since 1977! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Well, what can I say. "Thank you, thank you, thank you!". Nucejoe, you hit the nail on the head, but thanks to all who confirmed your thoughts too. It was indeed the centre tube, which must have worked its way loose in the ultrasonic cleaner. I put some moderate pressure on the tube with the flat of my tweezers and the tube snapped down flush into place on the plate. I did check for side movement, but none detected. Immediately afterwards, I reassembled the train wheels and within a couple of minutes, I had the bridge secured and the wheels spinning nice and freely. Thanks again folks. I'm still learning a year into this wonderful hobby, and this has got to be the most ambitious project I've taken on.
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