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AdamC

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AdamC last won the day on May 31 2018

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About AdamC

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  • Birthday October 1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire, England
  • Interests
    Travel, photography, genealogy, watchmaking

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  1. The blog link to an eBay listing sounds a great idea Marc. Just took a look and very impressed with the detail. I have to agree with the fact that the resale price many times just barely covers the cost of the original purchase and the replacement parts, and there are occasions where I’ve ended up selling at a loss (especially on using auction listings). So to mitigate, I now keep a spreadsheet, which includes the cost (inc postage) of the purchased watch and the cost of the parts to repair. It’s sometimes comes to not getting carried away on paying out say £30 on parts for a watch bought
  2. Hello, Welcome to WRT. Interesting question, and here’s how I acquire my watches but with a different kind of objective/acceptance in mind. I too am attracted to vintage watches anywhere from the 1920’s up to the 1960’s. also some of the ornate silver pocket watches up to the 1920’s. Ebay has always been my first port of call, generally for the vastness of timepieces available and sometimes some real bargains to be had. However, unless a watch is claimed to have had a service, I’ll always accept that it’s likely to need one, and for me, I actually get a kick out of buying some o
  3. Thank you, your technique has worked. After shaping the peg wood to the right diameter to avoid pressure on the jewel, with two firm pushes, the jewels dropped through the hole in the block. I could see then that they required cleaning for sure! After further cleaning before oiling and reassembly, would you recommend pushing them back in with peg wood or using a jeweling set? Sorry, this is quite advanced and new to me. I’m aware that they’ll need to be at the correct height/tolerance but I’d. imagine pushing fully home afterwards should be satisfactory (as long as I know they’re fully home).
  4. This has worked well jdrichard using a slightly modified method. Once on the balance tack, I was able to loosen the hairspring carrier, move it aside, and then disengage the spring between the regulator pins. It then dropped down onto a soft landing below. Note, I used Rodico to prop and cushion the cock on the block to protect the regulator pins. But now to remove the jewel... Under high magnification, I can see the flange around the jewel but it won't shift. Tried ultrasonic clean in Renata Essence, and afterwards even using a very fine 0.50 bladed screwdriver it won't provide enough lever t
  5. Nickelsilver, this sounds like a good approach too. Definitely a more tricky one to handle. By the way, this is not an American movement, it was made in Coventry, England. I’m not 100% sure but I think Smiths may have acquired H. Williamson a long time ago.
  6. Seems a sensible approach jdrichard. Thanks, I'll probably give that a go tomorrow evening.
  7. Hello, I am attempting to service an old H. Williamson pocket watch movement and hit an obstacle before I even started. I know I'll need to disassemble the balance in order to oil the non-shock end stone but having watched one of Mark's newer videos advising on the danger of removing the end stone mounting screws while the balance cock is mounted, I'm wary of doing this. However, with the Breguet hairspring held to the cock with with its own screw-retained "carrier cock" (holding the pinned hairspring) instead of a stud carrier, also top-mounted, I don't know what's riskier? As you can se
  8. Agree with Rodabod. I love Cortéberts and working on one now (pictured). Agree that any proficient watchmaker should be able to service your Dad’s watch, which I’m sure you’ll cherish wearing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Hi Tom, I’ve been toying with a similar dilemma. I work in a well paid but highly stressful job, though I’m moving towards the latter end of my career. My escapism from the stresses of the day job is to restore vintage watches, and I’ve been practicing for about three years now. I’ve taken Level 1 and 2 of Mark’s watch repair courses, and this has helped improve my techniques and skills confidence. I’m onto the 3rd level now. I think this is a great place to start and will provide certificates of achievement (a measurement of your knowledge). But some time ago I reached out to Mark regarding
  10. Well I think I've successfully done it. Thanks for all your words of advice. My method was to first assemble the train wheels and bridge and check they were freely spinning - all good. Then I tried the barrel held by its bridge without adjusting the tooth and as expected, the spin came to a hard stop and lightly bounced back. The gap of the good teeth is around 0.4. My 0.5 screwdriver blade got over half way between the gap of the bad tooth so using this I did a straight firm push (no back and forth levering as I hoped the wedge of the blade would push apart). On pushing the 0.5 home, I moved
  11. Looking on the Ranfft website, it looks like the movement might be an ETA 128. The top plate looks identical though the bridges differ on the bottom plate and mine doesn’t have a sub second hand. There’s one of these on ebay so may take a chance for a barrel donor if the straightening goes horribly wrong. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Hello, Another first for me. I'm attempting to repair a friend's antique watch, and not until after cleaning did I notice a bent tooth on the barrel. The original mainspring had snapped and I wondered if any damage had occurred when this happened, but on inspection, the jewel holes all look fine, it's just this tooth shown in the photos that concerns me now. So my question/dilemma is, do I attempt to straighten it, and if so, what would be the best technique to do this without causing further damage or snapping the tooth off? I'm very much doubting that leaving it alone will be an op
  13. [mention]HSL [/mention] That’s probably the closest match I’ve seen yet. Either the FHF 1144 or 1146. Probably an earlier version of one of them as both plate sides differ slightly from mine. Thanks for pointing this out. Appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Looking at it zoomed in, it looks to me like you need to unscrew the setting lever screw from the other side. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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