Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


AdamC last won the day on May 31 2018

AdamC had the most liked content!

About AdamC

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast
  • Birthday October 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire, England
  • Interests
    Travel, photography, genealogy, watchmaking

Recent Profile Visitors

4,099 profile views
  1. LIt’s not just a matter of corrosion is it? I had a movement a few weeks ago where the stem was so badly corroded to the setting lever and yoke that it took several attempts over about 3 days of applying very small amounts of penetrating oil to that area finally release it. I’m not suggesting WD40 is an accepted way to free rusted components but it worked for me without damage.
  2. Perfect. Thank you, you have solved my mystery. Surprisingly, I've worked on a few pocket watches in the past but never come across one like this. @oldhippy Thanks for your confirmation. The outer case appears to be gold and has 14K stamped on it with what looks like a squirrel logo underneath (again not seen this before) but unfortunately no hallmark letter to identify the year. On the inner dust cover, it has CUIVRE stamped on it (french for copper). So this really is quite an unusual watch. I've worked on cylinder movements on pocket watches before so thankfully understand some of its peculiarities. I'm going to hazard a guess that the watch is from around 1900.
  3. Thanks for your interest. Anti-clockwise, the sliding and winding pinion rotate and the yoke rises and falls as the sliding pinion turns. Clockwise, the winding pinion only rotates and begins winding the mainspring.
  4. It's been a while since I've worked on a movement as old as this. A friend asked me to look at whether I could get his great-grandmother's watch working again. When I first saw it, I thought it was an old 1920's ladies wristwatch, though thought it odd that the winding stem is at 12. However, on closer examination, it resembles more of an old pocket watch movement. Now amazingly, the watch is ticking when wound but I cannot pull the stem to set the hands. On removing the dial, I can see the yoke and yoke spring on the opposite side. But would I be right in thinking that it is missing the setting lever? There is a space that looks suspiciously like there could have been a setting lever there once but I could be wrong. I'd also be interested to hear your opinions on the age of the movement. I'm thinking around 1900. What's more surprising is that when the case is closed, you don't see the chipped porcelain around the edges, so thick is the bevel. It looks so nice and ornate and when the case is closed. Would love to be able repair but have my doubts. Any ideas about the keyless works? Thanks in advance.
  5. AdamC

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    Well guys, the Sanford watch is finally reassembled, on my wrist, and ticking away at a fast rate of knots being a Hi-Beat ETA 2832 movement. Timed on my timegrapher, it’s gaining about 1 minute per day but I’m going to wear it for a day and see how it performs before I think about adjusting it. Thanks again for your help, which has made the whole repair process a pleasure for this movement; definitely the most ambitious project I’ve taken on. It’s going to make my 82 year old stepfather a very happy man to be reunited with the watch he’s loved since 1977! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. AdamC

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    Well, what can I say. "Thank you, thank you, thank you!". Nucejoe, you hit the nail on the head, but thanks to all who confirmed your thoughts too. It was indeed the centre tube, which must have worked its way loose in the ultrasonic cleaner. I put some moderate pressure on the tube with the flat of my tweezers and the tube snapped down flush into place on the plate. I did check for side movement, but none detected. Immediately afterwards, I reassembled the train wheels and within a couple of minutes, I had the bridge secured and the wheels spinning nice and freely. Thanks again folks. I'm still learning a year into this wonderful hobby, and this has got to be the most ambitious project I've taken on.
  7. AdamC

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    Thanks for your interest Clockboy. In answer to your question, my stepfather, whose watch it is, handed it to me in non-working condition. I discovered a retaining screw was missing from the autowinder mechanism and later found it on the main plate, which most likely stopped it. It hadn’t been serviced in years. I’ve found nothing significant (until now) that would prevent it from working. One thought is that the centre tube got moved when I put the parts through the ultrasonic cleaner. Thanks, Adam Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. AdamC

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    I think you could well be right Joe. I’ll try that tonight and let you know how I get on. Thanks again, really appreciate it. Adam Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. AdamC

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    Thanks again for your help with this movement Joe. I am adding a photo of the bottom plate that I took during disassembly. Ignore my annotated note. Thanks, Adam Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. AdamC

    ETA 2832 4th wheel seating

    Thanks Jaycey, because the watch is over 40 years old I decided to pay a little extra and purchase a barrel complete so no worries there. I have exhaustively removed, inspected under 20x mag (including jewel holes), and placed each wheel individually. The only one that seems to not seat properly is the 4th wheel, though I haven’t noticed anything damaged/bent on it. This kind of leads me to conclude that it could be the centre tube/post that is giving me the grief. There is a flange I can feel inside the tube when inserting the wheel but with a little gentle rocking it drops in past this no problem to where it rests just short of the top of the tube as shown. All parts were ultrasonically cleaned. I noticed during disassembly that the canon pinion/wheel combination came off with zero pressure and was surprised as I normally use my removal tool for this making me wonder if the 4th wheel needed to snap in from the top plate? However, as you say, they should be zero force from my understanding and I don’t remember having to pull this wheel out with any pressure. Thanks. I appreciate your input. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge. In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context. Thanks in advance
  12. AdamC

    ETA 2832

    Thank you. I’ll see if that one works better for me. Much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. AdamC

    ETA 2832

    I don’t suppose anybody could provide or point me in the right direction for the ETA 2832 technical sheet. I have sourced the 2836 one, which has similarities but I have noticed significant differences. This caliber automatic movement was produced in the mid-1970s. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Nucejoe, that’s a great common sense approach to this problem and a valuable tip to readers. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks for your help Joe, it's much appreciated. I shall be able to progress with the disassembly now. I agree, the barrel bridge would look better with the same colour metal. Depends on availability and cost but I'll bear that in mind. Shall definitely get a replacement screw for the auto-winder though. Regards, Adam