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AdamC

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AdamC last won the day on May 31 2018

AdamC had the most liked content!

About AdamC

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday October 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire, England
  • Interests
    Travel, photography, genealogy, watchmaking

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  1. [mention]HSL [/mention] That’s probably the closest match I’ve seen yet. Either the FHF 1144 or 1146. Probably an earlier version of one of them as both plate sides differ slightly from mine. Thanks for pointing this out. Appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Looking at it zoomed in, it looks to me like you need to unscrew the setting lever screw from the other side. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Thank you gentlemen. It’s been a really interesting discussion. I don’t remember where I heard about the old oil vs modern but it shows how you can accept these concepts without question sometimes if it sounds feasible (especially as a relative newbie at three years experience at this fantastic hobby) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks for your thoughts Frank. I’ve heard from some people that the mainspring strength should be less for older vintage watches due to using modern oils that reduce friction in the jewels compared to the old mineral oils used back in the day. I’m learning new stuff every day, helping me to master these interesting skills and become a better repairer/servicer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Nickelsilver, thank you very much for your full explanation on the types and strengths of mainspring. This is really interesting and I have often wondered what Nivaflex is so when I have a choice in future, I shall opt for that brand. This takes me back to one of my original questions now. Based on Young’s modulus, I wonder if it holds that a percentage can be calculated to drop down the strength when replacing a carbon steel spring with a Nivaflex? For example, it appears Nivaflex is 7.3% stronger, so in my case, 0.11/1.073=0.1025, so I’d replace my 0.11 carbon steel with a 0.10 or 0.105 using judgement (as @Rodabod mentioned) in this case as the calculation lies in between those springs available. Of course, I may be talking rubbish if Young’s can’t be used for this kind of physical science
  6. Hi Frank, The internal diameter of the barrel is 9.14mm. But then I measured the external diameter of the barrel arbor, original spring thickness, and calculated the length (not forgetting the height of course). The spring I fitted was 1.50 x .11 x 280 x 8.5. Looking at the reverse engineering on David Boettcher's webpage, going on barrel internal diameter alone, it appears that a 0.105 strength spring may have been more appropriate.
  7. Really interesting discussion John. I have come across this site, which gives a lot of information on mainsprings and calculators etc. Could be where you remember seeing where they consider old and new type springs are of equal strength (scroll right to the bottom of the page for that comparison). I think first, I'll take your advice and leave the watch ticking for a couple more days and see if it improves. Then as you a Nucejoe have mentioned, I may just put a drop of oil on the pallet fork pivot jewels, and I have HP 1300 oil too!
  8. Hi all, I wonder if you can give any advice. I’ve just completed an unbranded watch from (I think) the 1920’s era (photos to give you an idea). As you can see, the original mainspring is of the old carbon steel type. Being an unidentifiable movement, I calculated the appropriate length using a mainspring calculator and then measured the other dimensions. The thickness/strength of the old spring is 0.11mm. As such I ordered a new S shaped white alloy unbreakable spring of the same thickness. After completing the rebuild, I noticed the galloping sound of the ticking and immediately recognised it as knocking the banking as described in one of Mark’s videos. So my question is twofold: 1: is there a formula/general rule for allowing for stronger modern replacement springs? 2: is there anything I can do to fix it bar replacing the spring again? The watch has an additional issue in that the setting lever stem end is worn and wasn’t fully engaging the recess to operate the the sliding pinion; i.e., on pushing in the crown, the setting lever jumped out of the stem recess. Rightly or wrongly, I put some dial washers under the lever on the opposite side, and when tightened down it appears to be giving enough pressure to stop it jumping out. Again, without caliber id, I’m unable to source a replacement. Finally, if anyone recognises this early 10.5’’’ movement, I’d love to know. I have suspected an FHF but not sure. All train wheel bridges are separate (unlike those designed to look separate). Thanks in advance for any advice, Adam Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. [mention]jdm [/mention] Completely agree with you there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. UnHommeQuiDort, I would hope he doesn’t charge you again if the original fault hasn’t been fixed! It’s likely no replacement part would be required as it is just a matter of tightening the existing canon pinion if this is still indeed the issue. Surely there is some kind of guarantee for the work carried out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I’m sure I had this happen once when the canon pinion was slipping slightly. Just a thought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I think my strangest find yet was underneath the dial of an old French watch, which I bought on ebay from a seller in France. The watch movement, an HP 81, dated from the 1940s. An inscription was found scratched into the underside of the dial in what looked like French. I was intrigued and asked a French colleague at work to attempt translating it. Both he and I were baffled and humoured by his translation. Some may find the translation offensive so I’ll add the photo and see what you make of it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Brilliant watchweasol! I’ll take a look at that. Thanks for all your help. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. That’s a really good tip Anilv. Thank you!
  15. Do you mean J-B Weld epoxy? If so, I can obtain it from Amazon. Sounds feasible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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