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AdamC

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AdamC last won the day on May 31 2018

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About AdamC

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday October 1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire, England
  • Interests
    Travel, photography, genealogy, watchmaking

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  1. Agree with Rodabod. I love Cortéberts and working on one now (pictured). Agree that any proficient watchmaker should be able to service your Dad’s watch, which I’m sure you’ll cherish wearing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Hi Tom, I’ve been toying with a similar dilemma. I work in a well paid but highly stressful job, though I’m moving towards the latter end of my career. My escapism from the stresses of the day job is to restore vintage watches, and I’ve been practicing for about three years now. I’ve taken Level 1 and 2 of Mark’s watch repair courses, and this has helped improve my techniques and skills confidence. I’m onto the 3rd level now. I think this is a great place to start and will provide certificates of achievement (a measurement of your knowledge). But some time ago I reached out to Mark regarding
  3. Well I think I've successfully done it. Thanks for all your words of advice. My method was to first assemble the train wheels and bridge and check they were freely spinning - all good. Then I tried the barrel held by its bridge without adjusting the tooth and as expected, the spin came to a hard stop and lightly bounced back. The gap of the good teeth is around 0.4. My 0.5 screwdriver blade got over half way between the gap of the bad tooth so using this I did a straight firm push (no back and forth levering as I hoped the wedge of the blade would push apart). On pushing the 0.5 home, I moved
  4. Looking on the Ranfft website, it looks like the movement might be an ETA 128. The top plate looks identical though the bridges differ on the bottom plate and mine doesn’t have a sub second hand. There’s one of these on ebay so may take a chance for a barrel donor if the straightening goes horribly wrong. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Hello, Another first for me. I'm attempting to repair a friend's antique watch, and not until after cleaning did I notice a bent tooth on the barrel. The original mainspring had snapped and I wondered if any damage had occurred when this happened, but on inspection, the jewel holes all look fine, it's just this tooth shown in the photos that concerns me now. So my question/dilemma is, do I attempt to straighten it, and if so, what would be the best technique to do this without causing further damage or snapping the tooth off? I'm very much doubting that leaving it alone will be an op
  6. [mention]HSL [/mention] That’s probably the closest match I’ve seen yet. Either the FHF 1144 or 1146. Probably an earlier version of one of them as both plate sides differ slightly from mine. Thanks for pointing this out. Appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Looking at it zoomed in, it looks to me like you need to unscrew the setting lever screw from the other side. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Thank you gentlemen. It’s been a really interesting discussion. I don’t remember where I heard about the old oil vs modern but it shows how you can accept these concepts without question sometimes if it sounds feasible (especially as a relative newbie at three years experience at this fantastic hobby) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for your thoughts Frank. I’ve heard from some people that the mainspring strength should be less for older vintage watches due to using modern oils that reduce friction in the jewels compared to the old mineral oils used back in the day. I’m learning new stuff every day, helping me to master these interesting skills and become a better repairer/servicer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Nickelsilver, thank you very much for your full explanation on the types and strengths of mainspring. This is really interesting and I have often wondered what Nivaflex is so when I have a choice in future, I shall opt for that brand. This takes me back to one of my original questions now. Based on Young’s modulus, I wonder if it holds that a percentage can be calculated to drop down the strength when replacing a carbon steel spring with a Nivaflex? For example, it appears Nivaflex is 7.3% stronger, so in my case, 0.11/1.073=0.1025, so I’d replace my 0.11 carbon steel with a 0.10 or 0.105 usin
  11. Hi Frank, The internal diameter of the barrel is 9.14mm. But then I measured the external diameter of the barrel arbor, original spring thickness, and calculated the length (not forgetting the height of course). The spring I fitted was 1.50 x .11 x 280 x 8.5. Looking at the reverse engineering on David Boettcher's webpage, going on barrel internal diameter alone, it appears that a 0.105 strength spring may have been more appropriate.
  12. Really interesting discussion John. I have come across this site, which gives a lot of information on mainsprings and calculators etc. Could be where you remember seeing where they consider old and new type springs are of equal strength (scroll right to the bottom of the page for that comparison). I think first, I'll take your advice and leave the watch ticking for a couple more days and see if it improves. Then as you a Nucejoe have mentioned, I may just put a drop of oil on the pallet fork pivot jewels, and I have HP 1300 oil too!
  13. Hi all, I wonder if you can give any advice. I’ve just completed an unbranded watch from (I think) the 1920’s era (photos to give you an idea). As you can see, the original mainspring is of the old carbon steel type. Being an unidentifiable movement, I calculated the appropriate length using a mainspring calculator and then measured the other dimensions. The thickness/strength of the old spring is 0.11mm. As such I ordered a new S shaped white alloy unbreakable spring of the same thickness. After completing the rebuild, I noticed the galloping sound of the ticking and immediately recognise
  14. [mention]jdm [/mention] Completely agree with you there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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