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Found 11 results

  1. Greetings folks. I've been working on watches as a hobby for about 20 years now. I started out on pocket watches and have never cleaned a clock. In fact, I had a great cleaning machine, with the big jars, and a few other clock tools, that I gave away to an aspiring clock guy over at the Tascione site. But I digress... Nearly 20 years ago I bought a Hamilton model 21 ship's chronometer. It's an early one, pre 400 serial number, and is a thing of beauty, as these generally are. Back when I got it, I had a professional service it for me. It was done well, but wasn't cheap. $400-500, IIRC. I used to display it in my living room and run it occasionally just to hear the escapement and marvel it its accuracy. From about 2009 to 2014 it sat in my storage unit, waiting for new digs. In 2014 I wound it up and it took off running. I let it run down and then put it away for a couple of years. When I pulled it out, I discovered that it had a broken balance pivot. While originally I thought someone had knocked it over and wasn't copping to it, but now, after inspecting the upper pivot's wear, I don't think that's the case. After botching the first staff I got trying to replace the hub, I set it aside again for the past couple of years. The way I broke the staff was I overestimated how deep the hollowness went in my hollow punch that I was using to tap it on. It bottomed out in the punch and destroyed the pivot. Now that I'm finally over that disappointment, I decided to give it another go. I bought a staff that already had the hub installed. I may have to polish the lower pivot, as it doesn't seem to want to set in the hole jewel properly. I'm in the process of verifying all of this. I had to tear down the chronometer at least to the point where I could check to see if the broken part of the pivot was impeding the staff from setting properly. The hole jewel is clear. I'm doing the best I can to do it right, and get it running again. I won't be running it, but want it running just in case I should decide to sell it. Otherwise the value drops quite a bit. Since I have it completely torn down now, I might as well clean and oil it. Does anyone have a hot tip on the best cleaning solutions for cleaning these chronometers? I'd like to use something that will cross over and work for my cleaning of watches as well. I have both an ultrasonic and the small L&R mechanical. I have one more fresh batch of cleaner and rinse, petroleum, no-water, formula. Should I use that, or make, or get, something new? Any tips for oil and grease types to get me by? Any suggestions are appreciated. I do have the Manual for the movement. I know that this is risky business, my working on this chrono, but I just can't afford to spend another $500 to get it running. Plus, I heard that if you're going to run these, you've got to spend this $500 or so to service them every few years. That is not going to happen. Feedback, suggestions, warnings, tips, etc., are all welcome. Many thanks. Cheers.
  2. Hi everyone. I'm brand new to watch repair, but I'm starting to really get into it as a hobby. I'm a 30something American living in Taiwan. Right now I'm really interested in old Walthams from the 1920s and 1930s, and old Hamiltons from the 40s and 50s. I have a few real-life friends who do repairs for one of the big Swiss companies, so they're mostly to blame for me getting into this. I normally don't join forums, but talking to experienced people seems like the best way for me to solve some essential challenges, and hopefully to learn.
  3. Hey, I'm on the lookout for a Hairpsring for a Hamilton cal 770. I've managed to find out that it's a Breguet made from Elinvar but that's about it. Does anybody know the parts number? If you also know where to get hold of one it would be very appreciated. Thanks! /A
  4. Hi all, Strangely, I'm was able to find out any information for the above and have not been able to get on NAWCC message board for whole of this week. Need the information to look at possible options for hands. TIA!
  5. Hi guys, I am having a hard time figuring out what KIF Elastor spring to order on cousins to replace a broken one I have in a Hamilton movement cal. 61. I cannot find any databases that have any info about this movement but I am wondering what the difference is between the elastor 3-2 and 3-3 (what do I measure??). Thanks for the help!! -Emil
  6. Hi everyone, I recently got an amazing Hamilton Sea Cliff 3 watch from the early 70s powered by a handwound cal.61. I received the watch and it had not been serviced in a very long time. I serviced the watch but unfortunately used an oil pick that was too large to take the elastor shock absorbing spring out to get to the endstones. I accidentally broke one of the two levers off in the process and am now left with a functioning movement that I am afraid might become easily damaged by displacement of the endstones from small shocks. I have included a photo of the KIF Elastor spring below. I looked all over the internet, and i cannot find a supplier that will sell to me (not a trained or professional watchmaker). Does anybody know where I can get one of these springs? It would be greatly appreciated if somebody could lead me in the right direction as to where to get one and how to tell if it is the 3-3 or 3-2 sizing or even have any idea what ETA movement this cal.61 is based on as there is not a complete database of these movements online.:( Thank you everyone for your help!! -Emil:)
  7. Here is my puzzle. I have a watch that I am working on. A Hamilton 987. It has been cleaned and oiled and demagnetized. When I run it on the timing machine the horizontal rates and the pendant down rate are all close and about +/- 4s/day. When I move it to pendant left things get weird. It has the same amplitude but the daily rate goes way off the chart -98s/day or something, also the beat error goes from 0.5ms to 0.0ms. The hairspring is running unobstructed, and he regulator fingers are adjusted correctly. How can this happen? How can a wheel spinning at the same amplitude produce such a wildly different rate? And how does the beat error change with the position change like that? Thoughts? Thanks Rob
  8. Hello, new to the site, and already with a question. I hope someone can help... I found an old (vintage) Hamilton LCD watch the P-2 (I think, since it only has one push button for time only) cleaned it up and opened the case. The batteries had been taken out, so no corrosion. I went and purchased the battery "adapters" since this watch takes two of the current 377 batteries now. Put it all back together and...NOTHING. After further examination I noticed that "board" where the batteries reside, was...well for a lack of a better term, rather darkened, as if it went through some heat damage. At first, I did not think anything of it, since I thought maybe this was done purposely to make the LCD red digits contrast better. I believe that the board is done, kaput, finito. My question is: Might there be a source for a replacement board (you really cant call it a movement), since there are NO MOVING parts, LOL. If anyone can assist with any information either as to supplier, or any ideas as to what may be going on with the Movement. Thank you in Advance, Felix
  9. Hi all, i have another military watch - this time a Hamilton, this one is a customers brought in for a service. We know the date it was producded and various other info, how ever it does'nt have 'Hamilton' on the dial. We have also found there seems to be different style models with the same serial number. Would any of you military enthusiasts be able to give us any more info? thanks
  10. I noticed a few postings regarding split-stems and I'm having a similar problem. Sorry if I missed the solution. I'm working on a Hamilton "Electric". I may need to check again but, it appears it's an ETA 551.121. I removed the crystal and the back. I was able to drop the movement out because the crown came off. I'm concerned about pulling hard on the stem. I found a site that claimed you can slowly turn the crown back while wiggling ( http://www.mybulova.com/node/4602). I found this unsuccessful. I've included a couple photos of the stem. I also noticed an arrow directly above the stem pointing to what looks like a release for the 2nd part (see black and white pic w/arrow). I didn't want to depress the pin for fear I may have trouble getting things back together. Any suggestions? Dave.
  11. I've long been a collector of Hamilton US railroad watches and wristwatches from the 1940s, but I couldn't resist this monster from the modern Swiss Hamilton company - a good old faithful ETA 6497 movement - originally for a pocket watch - in a modern wristwatch setting:
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