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Found 13 results

  1. I have a Hamilton T-502 with an issue in the keyless works that may or may not be rust related. It does not have the original signed crown, so a bad stem seal is a possible cause. From the back of the movement i don't see any rust stains, but sometimes a little nugget of dark crud falls out. The basic symptom is that the crown always winds the watch, but also is not released when i unscrew the stem release screw. By taking the spacer ring out of the watch i can finagle things so that i can grip the stem with a pair of hemostats, and i attempted to remove the crown but was unsuccessful - it just spun within the grip of the hemostat. Possible solutions i can think of: Cut the stem and source another. I'd rather not. Apply a small drop of solvent where the stem meets the crown in hopes that some fool glued it on and i can break the glue. Apply a small drop of penetrating oil where the stem meets the crown. Apply extreme heat very locally at the crown itself -- I have a temperature-controlled hot air wand with a set of nozzles. Further ideas?
  2. hi all I have a Hamilton gr 974 size 16s that needs a new center wheel jewel in the pillar plate. This is my first encounter of this type and so far what I've read is this type of jewel setting is one of the most difficult, if not the most difficult to repair due to its hybrid friction setting. it seems it's a two part setting to include the jewel, set into an either steel or bronze hub, then the beveled edge in peened over to hold the jewel, and then another beveled edge on the opposite side is peened over to affix the entire setting into the pillar plate. Anyone have any experience or advice before I attempt this one? below are the sorry excuses for pictures showing the plates side by side. the one on the left contains the donor jewel, and the one on the right is the missing center jewel. the third and second to the last is the donor jewel and the last is Section 300 out of the book, The Chicago School of Watchmaking that shows a cross sectional view of the procedure. Again, advice needed! i have to do some running but will check back later. apologies on the late wish: to our friends across the pond-my sincerest sympathies on the passing of Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth. A great, remarkable and very special lady indeed.
  3. I have a watch that I am fixing up for myself. After lots of research l, I concluded my watch is a 1960s Hamilton Stormking VII. As my watch needs a new crystal I ordered one from ebay that is for a Hamilton stormking VII. When I got it in I immediately realized that it doesn't fit. The replacement seems to me about 1mm larger than the original. (I dont have a caliper). Is this even a Hamilton Stormking VII? Or did I get the right crystal but I have to modify it before it fits?
  4. Hi everyone. I'm brand new to watch repair, but I'm starting to really get into it as a hobby. I'm a 30something American living in Taiwan. Right now I'm really interested in old Walthams from the 1920s and 1930s, and old Hamiltons from the 40s and 50s. I have a few real-life friends who do repairs for one of the big Swiss companies, so they're mostly to blame for me getting into this. I normally don't join forums, but talking to experienced people seems like the best way for me to solve some essential challenges, and hopefully to learn.
  5. Hey, I'm on the lookout for a Hairpsring for a Hamilton cal 770. I've managed to find out that it's a Breguet made from Elinvar but that's about it. Does anybody know the parts number? If you also know where to get hold of one it would be very appreciated. Thanks! /A
  6. Hi all, Strangely, I'm was able to find out any information for the above and have not been able to get on NAWCC message board for whole of this week. Need the information to look at possible options for hands. TIA!
  7. Hi guys, I am having a hard time figuring out what KIF Elastor spring to order on cousins to replace a broken one I have in a Hamilton movement cal. 61. I cannot find any databases that have any info about this movement but I am wondering what the difference is between the elastor 3-2 and 3-3 (what do I measure??). Thanks for the help!! -Emil
  8. Hi everyone, I recently got an amazing Hamilton Sea Cliff 3 watch from the early 70s powered by a handwound cal.61. I received the watch and it had not been serviced in a very long time. I serviced the watch but unfortunately used an oil pick that was too large to take the elastor shock absorbing spring out to get to the endstones. I accidentally broke one of the two levers off in the process and am now left with a functioning movement that I am afraid might become easily damaged by displacement of the endstones from small shocks. I have included a photo of the KIF Elastor spring below. I looked all over the internet, and i cannot find a supplier that will sell to me (not a trained or professional watchmaker). Does anybody know where I can get one of these springs? It would be greatly appreciated if somebody could lead me in the right direction as to where to get one and how to tell if it is the 3-3 or 3-2 sizing or even have any idea what ETA movement this cal.61 is based on as there is not a complete database of these movements online.:( Thank you everyone for your help!! -Emil:)
  9. Here is my puzzle. I have a watch that I am working on. A Hamilton 987. It has been cleaned and oiled and demagnetized. When I run it on the timing machine the horizontal rates and the pendant down rate are all close and about +/- 4s/day. When I move it to pendant left things get weird. It has the same amplitude but the daily rate goes way off the chart -98s/day or something, also the beat error goes from 0.5ms to 0.0ms. The hairspring is running unobstructed, and he regulator fingers are adjusted correctly. How can this happen? How can a wheel spinning at the same amplitude produce such a wildly different rate? And how does the beat error change with the position change like that? Thoughts? Thanks Rob
  10. Hello, new to the site, and already with a question. I hope someone can help... I found an old (vintage) Hamilton LCD watch the P-2 (I think, since it only has one push button for time only) cleaned it up and opened the case. The batteries had been taken out, so no corrosion. I went and purchased the battery "adapters" since this watch takes two of the current 377 batteries now. Put it all back together and...NOTHING. After further examination I noticed that "board" where the batteries reside, was...well for a lack of a better term, rather darkened, as if it went through some heat damage. At first, I did not think anything of it, since I thought maybe this was done purposely to make the LCD red digits contrast better. I believe that the board is done, kaput, finito. My question is: Might there be a source for a replacement board (you really cant call it a movement), since there are NO MOVING parts, LOL. If anyone can assist with any information either as to supplier, or any ideas as to what may be going on with the Movement. Thank you in Advance, Felix
  11. Hi all, i have another military watch - this time a Hamilton, this one is a customers brought in for a service. We know the date it was producded and various other info, how ever it does'nt have 'Hamilton' on the dial. We have also found there seems to be different style models with the same serial number. Would any of you military enthusiasts be able to give us any more info? thanks
  12. I noticed a few postings regarding split-stems and I'm having a similar problem. Sorry if I missed the solution. I'm working on a Hamilton "Electric". I may need to check again but, it appears it's an ETA 551.121. I removed the crystal and the back. I was able to drop the movement out because the crown came off. I'm concerned about pulling hard on the stem. I found a site that claimed you can slowly turn the crown back while wiggling ( http://www.mybulova.com/node/4602). I found this unsuccessful. I've included a couple photos of the stem. I also noticed an arrow directly above the stem pointing to what looks like a release for the 2nd part (see black and white pic w/arrow). I didn't want to depress the pin for fear I may have trouble getting things back together. Any suggestions? Dave.
  13. I've long been a collector of Hamilton US railroad watches and wristwatches from the 1940s, but I couldn't resist this monster from the modern Swiss Hamilton company - a good old faithful ETA 6497 movement - originally for a pocket watch - in a modern wristwatch setting:
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