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  1. It is my impression that ETA's calibre 2892-A2 is usually found in more expensive watches and in luxury watches where oftentimes the movement has been modified. Mechanically, I don't think the 2892-A2 is superior to ETA’s classic 2824-2. Both movements have the same diameter (11 ½´´´ Ø 25.60 mm), the same frequency (28’800 A/h), and the same date complication. The decisive difference is the thickness where the 2892-A2 is one-millimetre thinner (3.6mm). That, combined with being a reliable and well-functioning movement, has made it popular for additional complications and alterations such as moon phase, power reserve display, co-axial escapement, chronograph modules from Dubois Depraz, and so on. The Swiss Sellita Calibre SW300-1 is, as far as I understand, an excellent clone of the 2892-A2. There is also a Chinese clone, the Seagull Calibre ST1812 (reviewed by @Markin the video “Chinese eta 2892-A2 Clone - Service and Review - Seagull ST1812”), and possibly others. Mark has made a playlist of videos that excellently demonstrate how to service the ETA 2892-A2 movement. The playlist is named: "Omega 2500 Co-Axial Stripdown and Service (ETA 2892-A2)" I recommend Mark’s playlist for several reasons. Among other things, he shows how to mount the barrel bridge safely and how to hold the minute train bridge with your tweezers to easily get it into place on the main plate (which I found a bit fiddly). In addition, he shows and compares the parts that are all too easy to mix up. One thing that is not shown in Mark's service video is that the Incabloc setting (chaton and cap jewel) for the balance and the main plate have different diameters. The main plate Incabloc setting diameter is smaller than that of the balance. The reason this is not shown in the video is probably that Mark removes, cleans, and lubricates the Incabloc settings one at a time after he reassembles the balance, so he wouldn’t notice. Anyway, don't mix up the two sets! Something that I appreciate about Mark's videos in general and that sets him apart from basically all other watch repairers on YouTube is that he doesn't continuously babble in his videos but mainly talks to make clarifications. I enjoy those segments of silence where I can just focus on the work being done. When I started my service, I decided to follow Mark's disassembly which worked perfectly. But for the assembly, I made up my mind to follow ETA's technical documentation to the letter. It turned out to be a mistake. In ETA's documentation, the assembly of the movement begins with the keyless works, then the train of wheels and then the barrel bridge. The crucial problem with this arrangement is that it is physically impossible to mount the barrel bridge if the train of wheels is already mounted. It is also very fiddly and difficult to baste the end of the winding stem into the winding pinion hole because the hole for the winding stem in the main plate is both open and tapered and therefore does not hold the winding stem. Mark takes a considerably more hands-on approach. He begins the assembly with the barrel bridge. He then mounts the keyless works whose constituent parts (the winding stem, the winding pinion, and the sliding pinion) are supported by the underside of the barrel bridge, making it considerably easier to get the keyless works in place. After I revised my strategy, this service walkthrough now follows Mark’s approach. It surprises me, but it seems like no watchmaker has proofread ETA's technical documentation. Alternatively, ETA follows an established practice and expects those using the documentation to understand that the assembly order in the document is not significant. I am also somewhat sceptical of ETA's recommendations regarding lubrication. Where we traditionally use grease, for example in the keyless works, ETA chooses mainly oil (HP-1300). I guess that ETA treats all parts of the movement with epilame (Fixodrop) and that oil may then be a better alternative. For better or for worse, my service walkthrough follows ETA's lubrication recommendations. As usual, I would like to remind those of you with no previous experience in watch servicing that this service walkthrough should not be seen as a tutorial on how to service a watch movement. A lot of tools, consumables, training and know-how are required to succeed. Fortunately, there are several excellent resources and watchmaking schools online. When looking through the pictures you’ll see that a few screws and plates are either marred or have pits and grooves in them. None of this is my doing but is either the result of rust (that I removed) or the doings of a less scrupulous repairer than myself. Finally, someone may ask, “Why to bother to do a service walkthrough with pictures when there is such an excellent video?" The main answer to the question is that I find it interesting and fun, and I see it as a complement to Mark's service video. Using this walkthrough, you can quickly scroll through the pictures to read what the different parts are called and where and in what order they should go, what the screws to be used look like, and to read ETA's lubrication recommendations. So, I hope you’ll find this ETA 2892-A2 service walkthrough useful, now or in the future. *** ETA Calibre 2892-A2 Disassembly *** ' *** ETA Calibre 2892-A2 Assembly ***
  2. ETA 955 Service Walkthrough "The Workhorse of Highend Quartz" The ETA 955 and 956 Quartz Movements are the most commonly found movement in high-end quartz watches with three hands and a date feature. You will find them in Omega, Tag, and many other brands on the market. For this walkthrough I will be using an 955.412 Movement as my example; but the 956 is so similar to the 955, that this walkthrough will suffice for both. Please note that the numbers after the decimal place only relates to the factory in which the movement was made, so yours could read 955.112, or another factory number ... regardless, the parts are identical and interchangeable. As with all movements, quartz or mechanical, they have a service interval that should be adhered to for longevity of the movement. With quartz movements when the lubrication becomes dried out, or the movement becomes dirty, they will draw more and more current from the battery in order to maintain accurate time keeping. The ETA 955/6, when in optimum condition should draw around 800nA ~ 1.5uA, if the movement is drawing more power than this, a service is required. If a service is not performed, the battery life with decrease markedly, and can go as far as drawing more power from the battery than it was designed for, and damage the battery and cause it to leak and corrode your valuable time piece. Service Manual for the 955/6 Movement CT_956412_FDE_493024_06.pdf.PDF Disassembly Remove the two Date Wheel Keepers. I always start with the one holding the Date Jumper Spring in place. Sometimes the Date Jumper Spring can ping out of place, so be careful when removing the keeper plate above it. Here is a reference photo in case it moves before you see how it's properly seated. Next remove the Keepers and Date Wheel. Then remove the Date Jumper Spring, Motion and Calendar Work. This will leave only the Keyless Work; remove the Yoke and the Sliding Pinion only. We need to flip the movement over, and disassemble the IC Board before we can remove the rest of the Keyless Work. With the movement flipped over, remove the 3 screws holding the Coil Protector. Note for re-assembly the Gold Screw in the centre. Now that the Coil Protector is removed, GREAT care must be taken not to damage the exposed fine windings of the Coil. Then to remove the IC Board, simply remove the 2 remaining screws that hold it. Do this slowly and carefully, as you do not want to slip off the screw and damage this delicate circuit. The same level of care needs to be taken when removing the IC Board from the Main Plate. Take your time and carefully lift it off and store it immediately out of harms way. Next remove the black Insulator Block, and Battery Insulator. This will expose the Setting Lever Spring Clip, which will enable you to remove the rest of the Keyless Work. To remove the Setting Lever Spring Clip, place both points of your tweezers on the locations where I've placed the stars and gently push down on the spring. Then with a piece of Pegwood, push the spring in the direction of the arrow until it moves to the larger opening slot. This will now allow the Setting Lever to be removed, along with the rest of the Keyless Work. Next remove the Stop Lever and Switch, and remove the one screw holding the Train Bridge in place. Then carefully remove the Gear Train and the Rotor. The movement is now completely stripped and ready for inspection and cleaning. There are some parts that you do not place in the parts cleaner, they are as follows: Date Ring Rotor IC Board The rest should be demagnetized prior to cleaning to avoid any metal particles in your cleaning solution from sticking to your parts. When cleaning I also including the Insulator Block, and Battery Insulator in the basket, normal watch cleaning solutions do not harm these items and it is essential they are completely clean to provide the best insulation possible. The Rotor should be cleaned by use of Rodico. As you can see from the picture below, it's surprising the dirt and old oil this will remove ... and it is sufficient cleaning for the Rotor. I hope this has been a help to you, and I will post the assembly procedure later today, if time permits.
  3. Hi all, check these animated disassembley and assembly videos. Great for educational purposes.
  4. I decided to build my own ETA 2824 automatic watch recently. I spent time picking out all the parts I wanted, received them and put them all together with minimal trouble. After sizing the stem and fitting it to the crown I cannot get the stem to go back. After struggling for a minute or two I noticed that even when the stem was removed the movement continued to tick. I did make sure that the watch was in a time setting position before removing the stem. But now I’m one step from completing my watch build and have no idea what to do to fix it. This is the only watch experience I have yet had so I really hope it’s not a difficult fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  5. I have a flash shortcut to ETA labs 7750 calibre that showed assembly dis-assembly. It no longer works due to Adobe flash reaching EOL status. I visited ETA labs web site to see if there was an alternative and lo and behold no access to anything technical at all. Does anyone know how to get access to what we use to have access to? Looks like protectionism has escalated.
  6. ETA F05-111 Service Walkthrough "The Workhorse Of Midrange Quartz" Moving on from the ETA 955.412 service, another common quartz movement, this time found in mid-range quartz watches, is the F05 111. It doesn't have the build quality of the 955/6 model; but it's still a very robust movement, and able to be serviced. In saying that, this movement is rarely serviced by a professional watchmaker due to the low cost of a replacement movement. Personally, I think it's sad we live in such a throw-away society, and are slowly loosing the skills and confidence to performance maintenance at home. So if you've got the tools and confidence to service this movement at home, do it, and save yourself $$$. Service Manual for the F05 111 Movement ETAF05.111.pdf We will first start with the Motion Work and Calendar Work. Remove the three screws holding the Cover Plate. You will see that this also has the Date Jumper Spring incorporated into it. Next remove the Hour Wheel, and the Date Indicator Driving Wheel. Note too that there is no quick date change on this movement. Remove the Minute Train Bridge, Minute Wheel, Canon Pinion and the Sliding Pinion And that's it for this basic movement on the dial side. Flip the movement over and we'll begin on the drive side Remove the three screws marked below and lift out the Electronic Module Cover. Next remove the two remaining screws that hold the Gear Train Bridge. As you can see with plastic wheels, this is not up to the same quality and finish as the 955/6 movement. Remove the Second Wheel, Intermediate Wheel, and the Rotor I would not recommend removing the Third Wheel at this time as the IC Board circuits are directly above it, and there is no point risking damage to it. To remove the IC Board, gentle lever up the where the location pin goes through the board just at the end of the Quartz Crystal housing. This pin is often firmly pegged to the board and must be lifted up first. This will loosen the board away from the Main Plate. Then gentle lift out the IC Board by sticking a piece of Rodico to the mark position below and lifting out. This will avoid any damage to the circuit or Coil. Now that the IC Board has been removed, access for removal of the Third Wheel is risk free. You can also remove the Insulating Block at this time. This is also the time to remove the Battery Insulator, but this being just a spare movement I own, it's been used elsewhere ... sorry :unsure: The Keyless Work is now exposed, and is a very basic setup, being held only with 1 shouldered screw. The movement is now completely stripped and ready for cleaning. All the parts can go in for cleaning EXCEPT the following Date Ring Rotor IC Board PLEASE NOTE: Due to most of the wheels being plastic, be careful when you come to the heating/drying stage if you are using an Elma/Pearl Parts Cleaner. Make sure the basket is high up in the drying cylinder and ONLY RUN FOR 11 MINUTES MAXIUM ... too much heat isn't good for those little plastic wheels. I hope this has been fun and edifying to read. I'll post the assembly procedures latter tonight after dinner ... my tummy is talking to me :)
  7. Hi all, newbie here. I guess I've ended up a bit of a watch fan with a bunch of watches in my current collection (pic below), plus a few others I've sold. I haven't done that much modding of my watches, just battery changes and realigning hands on a few occasions. But I did put together a Series One watch from buildyourownwatch.com a few years (which I've actually sold since). At some point I would like to get more into building my own design, but baby steps first Anyway, my Helgray Field Officer II watch has been a trusty daily beater for some time, with a quartz Ronda 515 movement. The battery ran out a few weeks ago, so I ordered a replacement, put it in - watch didn't restart? Tried with a different battery, nada. Both were new batteries in original packaging with expiry dates years in the future. After looking around I found a few others online saying they'd had similar experiences when replacing the battery on a Ronda 515 movement. Seems like the movement is prone to dying at battery replacement time. So after a bit of hunting around at specs and seeing what I could easily get a hold of locally, I decided to give an ETA F06.111 movement a go as a replacement (https://shopb2b.eta.ch/f06-111-f06.1111597973808.html). It's shows up on the ETA website as discontinued and replaced by F06.115, but I couldn't find that locally and there didn't seem to be much difference between them. There was a 0.5mm difference in stem to dial height from the F06.111 to Ronda 515, but hand sizes etc. were all the same, and the key deciding factor was a much better battery life - 68 months using a Renata 371, as opposed to 45 months for the 515. Good news - it all worked. Switched over the hands to the new movement - even with tweezers and a hand press, I still find fitting hands the fiddliest of all! The hands maybe did get a little beat up from pinging out of my tweezers so often. The second hand isn't perfectly aligned but maybe I'll have another go some other time on that. Seems to me there's a market for a simple watch hand-friendly clamp, with a fine x-y axis adjustment to line it up to the dial and press mechanism to fit hands accurately and softly. Also needed to switch the crown onto the new stem and cut it to fit. Once the stem is in the new movement, the crown does sit at a slight angle if you look closely from the side, due to the 0.5mm difference in stem to dial height between the movements, but the actual date/time mechanism etc all works fine. I have a Renata 395 battery on the way, which the ETA movement can take and ups the battery life to 94 months! A few pics, and the Field Officer back in the working collection
  8. Hello, I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch. 1) Open the wathc case 2) removed rotor 3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out) 4) removed the movement from the case 5) put movment to movement holder 6) removed hands 7) removed dial 8) put new dial 9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all.. Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before.. Thank you for any ideas. Mickey
  9. Also merely to gather more and more experience, I bought two ETA 2472 over the time for little money on ebay. I think they were less than 20 EUR each. I already worked on one which did not work, since one of the escapement wheel pivots was sheared off. I demagnetized the movement which I hadn't worked on earlier and put on the timegrapher. The result is excellent, especially since the beat error is zero. I did not adjust anything yet. For the first movement I ordered a replacement escapement wheel on ebay. Unfortunately the seller didn't pack it properly. This is the result: A bent wheel. I was able to fix it with this trueing caliper which I also got for very little money on ebay. This is the result of the movement with the repaired escapement wheel. BTW the seller of the bent wheel refunded me and apologized. He asked me to keep the bent part. The movement which I will work on now has a problem in the date mechanism. The date just doesn't move after midnight. I assume it's a problem of lubrication. Let's see. I will now disassemble the movement. I will use the order that ETA suggests on the 2824, @bobm12, this thread is only for you Cheers Alexander
  10. To gain more experience I will now reassemble an ETA 2671 movement. This movement is taken from the watch of my wife a couple of months ago, and I screwed it up: destroyed the hairspring and also destroyed the spring click (434), which is a very delicate part. Very different from other movements I saw before. The watch of my wife came back to life after I bought a used entire 2671 and just replaced it. Now I have all the spares, and want to reassemble it. The pictures were taken before I learned how to do that. The new ones will be much better. Here are not too many pictures of the disassembly. I will post all stages of assembly here, so that anyone who needs to service a 2761 can see the reverse disassembly order.
  11. Hello, I'm building a watch using a Sellita SW200 and I bought an ETA 2824 dial. The dial has four feet and so does my movement, but they don't line up, the ones on the dial are too far apart relative to the movement. I think if I cut off two feet I can make it fit but I'm not 100% sure. Is this a common scenario?
  12. Hello, I know this is a long shot but would anyone happen to have the technical sheet for the ETA 1164. I acquired this little beauty on ebay; a non-runner from the USA, which needs a lot of TLC. I've never tackled anything quite like this one but fancied the challenge. However, I'm not 100% sure yet whether the everything on the bottom plate under the dial is complete - can anyone confirm? The top plate however looks fine. The watch back is stamped "Seeland Watch Co. Swiss" - having looked it up, it appears Frederick Seeland was once CEO for IWC! Nice historical timepiece once I've restored it. I've added a few photos for reference (yes, I've removed the balance ). Thanks in advance.
  13. Service Walk Through – ETA 2893-1 / Hamilton Khaki: Part 1 - Disassembly This is part 1 of my service of a Hamilton Khaki – dual time zone automatic based on the ETA 2893-1 movement. I purchased the watch on eBay and it runs for a short time then stops. Looks like it could use a good cleaning. Note that the part numbers in the images and text are consistent with those found in the ETA technical document for this movement. Disassembly of this movement is quite straightforward. The only "special" tool you need would be an oscillating weight bolt tool - and you only need this if you intend to remove the ball bearing assembly from the oscillating weight, which really isn't required. In this tear down I do use the tool - only because I recently acquired it and wanted to see how it worked Off we go.... The dial shows evidence of some sloppy workmanship in the watch's past – several scratches from prior hand removal. Here you see the back of the 2893-1 with its automatic rotor - nicely signed Hamilton. Preparing to remove the hands – with a safety sheet in place. After removing the dial, remove the dial support ring. This ring keeps the dial the proper distance from the second timezone disc. Without it, the disc will rub against the dial. Remove the second timezone disc from the center. This is a bit tricky as there’s no obvious place to grip it. I used two very small screwdrivers on each side to lift the indicator straight up. Be careful not to scratch it! Disc removed. Note the following parts: Hour Wheel (42); Hour Indicator Driving Wheel (43); Corrector Setting Wheel (44); Additional Indicator Maintaining Plate (41) Pop off the dial washer – note that you cannot simply lift the hour wheel (42) off at this point. It is held in place by the hour indicator driving wheel (43). I remove the hour indicator driving wheel (43) followed by the corrector setting wheel (44). The hour wheel (42) is now simply lifted off, followed by the additional indicator maintaining plate (41). Next components to remove are the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate (40) and the Minute Train Bridge (35). We move on to remove the Intermediate Date Wheel (39). The Date Jumper (38) has also been exposed when we removed the maintaining plate, so we remove it. Finally, we remove the Date Indicator (37) and the Date Indicator Driving Wheel (36). Now on to some of the motion and keyless work. We remove the Minute Wheel (34), Cannon Pinion with Driving Wheel (33), Double Corrector (32) and Date Corrector Intermediate Setting Wheel (31). Before dealing with the rest of the keyless work, we flip the movement over and remove the automatic work. After removing the 3 blue screws we lift the entire unit up gently by the Oscillating Weight (28). With the automatic work out of the way – I notice that the Stop Lever (Hack) is missing! Will try and source one. Back to the automatic work. Removing these 3 screws will allow the oscillating weight to come off the Automatic Framework (21) and its components. Using the appropriate Bolt tool (pictured with the red handle) – I remove the Oscillating Weight Bolt (28-3) and free the Ball Bearing (28-2) from the Oscillating Weight (28-1). There was no compelling reason to disassemble this portion of the movement. With the Oscillating Weight out of the way, remove the Auxiliary Reverser (27). Flip the unit over once again and remove the screw and Automatic Device Lower Bridge (26). Remove the Reverser (25), Reverser Wheel (24), Reduction Wheel (23) and Intermediate Reduction Wheel (22). A view of the underside of these components Remove the single screw and gently lift off the Balance Assembly (20) with the Balance Complete (19). Carefully let the power down by releasing the Click (12-6) and slowly letting the crown wind down. Remove the Pallet Bridge (18) and Pallets (17). Remove the Train Wheel Bridge (16). Remove the Fourth Wheel (15), Third Wheel (14) and Escape Wheel (13). Remove the 3 screws and the Barrel Bridge (12) Flip the bridge over and lift off the Ratchet Wheel Driving Wheel (12-2) Remove the screw and the Click Plate (12-7), followed by the Click (12-6), Intermediate Ratchet Wheel (12-5), Intermediate Crown Wheel (12-4) and Crown Wheel (12-3). Note that the Intermediate Crown Wheel is under the Click Plate. When I removed the plate, the wheel was stuck to it due to some old oil. Here you can see the Intermediate Crown Wheel as it was stuck. This shows the proper placement of the wheels. Remove the Ratchet Wheel (11), the Mainspring Barrel (10) and Intermediate Wheel (9). Note the scrap of tissue that found its way onto the movement. I was so focused on taking pics that I didn’t notice J Pop the lid off the barrel. Remove the mainspring arbor And finally, remove the mainspring The movement side is now completely bare. Let’s flip it over and finish off the keyless work. Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Jumper (8), Yoke (7) and the Setting Lever (6) Remove the Date Corrector Operating Lever (5), Winding Stem (4), Winding Pinion (3) and the Sliding Pinion (2) All stripped down Ready for the Ultrasonic!!! Hope you enjoyed this.
  14. Hi all, I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me. Anyone have any ideas? Best, Dan
  15. Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge. In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context. Thanks in advance
  16. Hello Mates! Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel. So I have to make it a little bit more loose... Has anybody done this befor? And how it the best way to do this? Thanks A ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion
  17. Cheers Mates!! Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4 with a ETA 2784 movment. Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama.... Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown. So the question is: Can I just replace the main spring? Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ? Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced? Ref 9081/4 is the ETA 2784
  18. Hi guys, I am having a hard time figuring out what KIF Elastor spring to order on cousins to replace a broken one I have in a Hamilton movement cal. 61. I cannot find any databases that have any info about this movement but I am wondering what the difference is between the elastor 3-2 and 3-3 (what do I measure??). Thanks for the help!! -Emil
  19. Hi there. Has anyone ever heard about an ETA E10.311 movement? I can find no info on it whatsoever. It's one of these LCD screen over dial watches. I am looking for the tech sheet on this. Thanks!!
  20. Service Walk Through – ETA 2893-1 / Hamilton Khaki: Part 1 - Disassembly This is part 1 of my service of a Hamilton Khaki – dual time zone automatic based on the ETA 2893-1 movement. I purchased the watch on eBay and it runs for a short time then stops. Looks like it could use a good cleaning. Note that the part numbers in the images and text are consistent with those found in the ETA technical document for this movement. Disassembly of this movement is quite straightforward. The only "special" tool you need would be an oscillating weight bolt tool - and you only need this if you intend to remove the ball bearing assembly from the oscillating weight, which really isn't required. In this tear down I do use the tool - only because I recently acquired it and wanted to see how it worked Off we go.... The dial shows evidence of some sloppy workmanship in the watch's past – several scratches from prior hand removal. Here you see the back of the 2893-1 with its automatic rotor - nicely signed Hamilton. The arrows indicate the location of the dial screws which secure the dial to the movement. These screws have a flat. Turn them just enough so the flat is facing the dial foot and the dial pops right off. Secure the screws so they don’t pop off during cleaning. Preparing to remove the hands – with a safety sheet in place. After removing the dial, remove the Dial Support Ring (47). This ring keeps the dial the proper distance from the second timezone disc. Without it, the disc will rub against the dial. Remove the second timezone disc, or what ETA calls the Universal Hour Indicator (46) from the center. This is a bit tricky as there’s no obvious place to grip it. I used two very small screwdrivers on each side to lift the indicator straight up. Be careful not to scratch it! With the disc removed, we can now remove the Dial Washer / Friction Spring (45), Corrector Setting Wheel (44) and Hour Indicator Driving Wheel (43). The Hour Wheel (42) can now be lifted off, followed by the Additional Indicator Maintaining Plate (41). Next components to remove are the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate (40) and the Minute Train Bridge (35). We move on to remove the Intermediate Date Wheel (39). The Date Jumper (38) has also been exposed when we removed the maintaining plate, so we remove it. Finally, we remove the Date Indicator (37) and the Date Indicator Driving Wheel (36). Now on to some of the motion and keyless work. We remove the Minute Wheel (34), Cannon Pinion with Driving Wheel (33), Double Corrector (32), Date Corrector Intermediate Setting Wheel (31) and Setting Wheel (30). This side is almost complete. We leave the setting components in place. Removing them now would be problematic as we have yet to release tension from the mainspring. Flip the movement over and remove the automatic work. After removing the 3 blue screws (seen in the previous 2 pics) we lift the entire unit up gently by the Oscillating Weight (28). With the automatic work out of the way – I notice that the Stop Lever (Hack) is missing! Will try and source one. Back to the automatic work. Removing these 3 small screws will allow the oscillating weight to come off the Automatic Framework (21). This is a special tool designed to release the Oscillating Weight Bolt I remove the Oscillating Weight Bolt (28-3) and free the Ball Bearing (28-2) from the Oscillating Weight (28-1). There was no compelling reason to disassemble this portion of the movement, but the tool worked as expected! With the Oscillating Weight out of the way, remove the Auxiliary Reverser (27). Flip the unit over once again and remove the screw and Automatic Device Lower Bridge (26). Remove the Reverser (25), Reverser Wheel (24), Reduction Wheel (23) and Intermediate Reduction Wheel (22). A view of the underside of these components – handy when trying to remember which way to reassemble. Remove the single screw and gently lift off the Balance Assembly (20) with the Balance Complete (19). Carefully let the power down by releasing the Click (12-6) and slowly letting the crown wind down. Remove the Pallet Bridge (18) and Pallets (17). Remove the Train Wheel Bridge (16). It is secured with a hefty screw! Remove the Fourth Wheel (15), Third Wheel (14) and Escape Wheel (13). Remove the 3 screws and the Barrel Bridge (12) Flip the bridge over and lift off the Ratchet Wheel Driving Wheel (12-2) Remove the screw and the Click Plate (12-7), followed by the Click (12-6), Intermediate Ratchet Wheel (12-5), Intermediate Crown Wheel (12-4) and Crown Wheel (12-3). Note that the Intermediate Crown Wheel is under the Click Plate. When I removed the plate, the wheel was stuck to it due to some old oil. Here you can see the Intermediate Crown Wheel as it was stuck. This shows the proper placement of the wheels. Remove the Ratchet Wheel (11), the Mainspring Barrel (10) and Intermediate Wheel (9). Note the scrap of tissue that found its way onto the movement. I was so focused on taking pics that I didn’t notice. Pop the lid off the Barrel Remove the mainspring arbor And finally, remove the mainspring, leaving the empty barrel The movement side is now completely bare. Let’s flip it over and finish off the keyless work. Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Jumper (8), Yoke (7) and the Setting Lever (6) Remove the Date Corrector Operating Lever (5), Winding Stem (4), Winding Pinion (3) and the Sliding Pinion (2) All stripped down Ready for the Ultrasonic!!! Hope you enjoyed this. In case you are interested, photo equipment used was: Camera: Nikon D5300 DSLR Lens: Nikon AF-S VR Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED, Shutter Release: Nikon ML-L3 Remote Shutter Release (wireless) Lighting: Polaroid Macro LED Ring Flash Tripod: Vanguard Alta Pro 263AB 100
  21. Hi all, this is my first post here. I repair watches as a hobby, and usually work on my own watches. This particular watch, along with two others, were give to a friend of mine, by his father, about three days before he passed away recently. The three watches, hence have an emotional value to my friend, and so, I wanted to get them going again. I fixed the QMax (Replaced battery), Titan (PCB and Coil, new battery, glass), and am working on this Rolex now. Almost all Indicators of a genuine Rolex that I have read of online, are absent, hence making me believe its most definitely a fake. i.e. No serial number or any stamping anywhere on case, no Logo on crown, Dial looks as if its been lacquered, bad finish, bracelet, and most importantly, no markings on the movement, and the movement was not used on any Rolex to my knowledge. Please enlighten me on this, if I am wrong. The issue I have now, is that, on the movement, there were no markings whatsoever, of the make or model. There were only serial numbers that read as "34B - 963125". After searching a lot, I realized, its an ETA 963.125, and photos on the internet matched with the movement I have. No marking of ETA on the movement (a fake again?). Its in a pretty rough shape, with the quartz oscillator (forgive my lack of knowledge of its correct name, as mechanics call it a "condenser" here), fallen apart. I did a preliminary search with the mechanics and spares shop here, and they all said its very old and parts are not available. Only one said, he will get me a scrap movement, but I am a bit doubtful. I was able to get a service manual for ETA 963.124 online. My question now is, is it possible to get these spares, or the whole movement anywhere in Bangalore, India? (my place), or is it possible to replace the whole movement with a different one, with the day and date windows matching with the dial? Or is it possible to reuse the same day and date rings on a different movement? Can anyone advice me on this? TIA. Pictures attached, forgive the lower quality, problem with my mobile cam.
  22. Hi everyone, I recently got an amazing Hamilton Sea Cliff 3 watch from the early 70s powered by a handwound cal.61. I received the watch and it had not been serviced in a very long time. I serviced the watch but unfortunately used an oil pick that was too large to take the elastor shock absorbing spring out to get to the endstones. I accidentally broke one of the two levers off in the process and am now left with a functioning movement that I am afraid might become easily damaged by displacement of the endstones from small shocks. I have included a photo of the KIF Elastor spring below. I looked all over the internet, and i cannot find a supplier that will sell to me (not a trained or professional watchmaker). Does anybody know where I can get one of these springs? It would be greatly appreciated if somebody could lead me in the right direction as to where to get one and how to tell if it is the 3-3 or 3-2 sizing or even have any idea what ETA movement this cal.61 is based on as there is not a complete database of these movements online.:( Thank you everyone for your help!! -Emil:)
  23. Hi, Can anyone help? I have a watch case that will exactly fit an ETA7751 movement but I cannot source or afford the movement. So I am on the lookout for an equivalent movement but am new to this. Can anyone advise which I should go for? Thanks.
  24. Hi, Can anyone point me in the right direction to where I can economically buy a Valjoux ETA 7751 movement, dial, hands, day/date and moon phase dials? I am based in the U.K.
  25. Hello all! I got my hands on a 15j Unitas 6497, and I would like to case it: Could you provide any sources of 41mm or less cases? I found something on Ofrei (http://www.ofrei.com/page1494.html), but I was wondering if there wouldn't be any smaller cases that would fit a 6497? Thank you, Bogdan
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