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Found 33 results

  1. Good afternoon everyone I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me get an old Timex Diver watch up and running again. So, as I said when I introduced myself, I recently found my very first watch, an orange faced Timex Diver which I got for Christmas in 1973. My 7 year old daughter has asked me if I can get it repaired so that she can use it. Now I will be the first to admit that I don't know anything about watch repairs but I am a 'have a go' type of fellow and manage to fix most things myself, usually with a little advice from knowledgable people. The story so far is that you can see from the first photo that the winding stem / crown assembly is missing and on removing the back case, that the retaining lever and screw are also missing. According to my Dad, I overwound the watch as a boy and the watch repairer said that it was not financially worth fixing. That would have been around 1977. The Diver watch identification number on the dial is: 23772 2573. From my research, the first number is the watch case identification number and the second number is the watch movement number and the year of watch manufacture. In which case, it has an M25 movement and the watch is from 1973 but I am unable to find a part number for the stem and crown assembly other than it starts: 401/1 TXJ1 ........? I also have an old 21 Jewel Timex watch which keeps very good time and has an identification number on the dial of: 6544 7569. I am led to believe that dimensionally, the M25 movement and the M75 movement are the same. The difference being that the M75 movement uses rubies for bearings rather than hardened alloy. If that is the case, I'm hoping that if I swap the dials and hands over, I could use the M75 movement in my old Diver watch. Obviously, I would still need to find a winding stem / crown assembly to fit the case as the one on the 21 Jewel watch looks too long. See photos attached. My first question is: Are the two movements interchangeable? My second question is: If the movements are interchangeable, does anyone know what the part number is for the winding stem / crown assembly to suit my watch case (23772)? And if so, does anyone know where I might be able to buy one? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Many thanks in advance, Grae
  2. hi guys, my obsession is early Timex watches from the 1950s, 60s and 70s with a particular focus on 1976 birth year watches, Dundee made pieces and early 50s pieces. what attracts me to Timex is how disposable they were and how they shouldn't have lasted as long as they should. there's a UK connection and a wide range of mechanical pieces produced in 1976 when the quartz crisis was at its height. unfortunately i have the money but not the time to restore many of these pieces so for now stick with m24 (no date) restorations with others being helped out by the timex community on fb and ig. (@timetrope) my current challenge is getting date wheels on m25 movements back on. theyre tricky. and getting crowns to stay in place on m21/22 movements which im hoping some new antimagnetic tweezers will help with. if your looking to sell or trade pieces then my goal is to collect them ALL and even at 200 im short quite a few
  3. I've just put a '67 Timex Viscount auto back together and I'm having a strange problem where the hour hand doesn't keep up to the minute hand (noticing this while setting the watch) and then it bolts ahead an hour or more very quickly. I've had to adjust the lay of the minute and second hands because they were rubbing every once in a while and stopping time. Perhaps I pushed the hour hand down and it's rubbing on the face now? I have to open it up again anyway as my micro-adjustments of the minute hand aren't keeping it away from the second hand consistently. It could just be that I need to make sure everything is getting clearance a little more closely or could it be something with the way the hour wheel and cannon pinion assembly are meshing?
  4. Evening, Adam here, Ex British Army, currently working as an Network Analyst. Naturally I'm here I'm here to ask a question! After scouring the Web for an answer, I'm lost. Recently I have become obsessed with purchasing old manual wind Timex from ebay, never more than £10-15, in an attempt to get them working. This is my first time looking at a M22 and can't figure out how to remove the stem, and struggling to find solid documentation. Hopefully this is a simple task which someone can help? Thanks.
  5. Been struggling through a number of #31 movements. This particular one was bought as a "running" watch, but it's been anemic from the start with some 80° of amplitude, just no momentum at all. I've cleaned it, oiled it, checked it and repeated some 3 times now, with nothing seeming to help. One thing I've noticed is that the unlubricated movement always sticks hard on the trailing palette pin. Give the pin or balance wheel a flick and the escapement wheel kicks the first pin out easily and then hangs on the 2nd. I've lubed the pins before (which is a bit tough) and this (along with other general oiling) gets it going with the poor amplitude, but never for long. Could the pin be bent in towards the wheel? Doesn't look it. Hairspring seems nicely shaped. I've lubed both pivots of the balance shaft and attempted to remove end-shake, but that adjustable brass pivot is getting pretty mauled. I'm really trying to avoid taking this movement apart completely. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  6. Fixing a Timex Electric (Dynabeat) Watch (battery) from the 1970's.....with battery will run only 3 to 5 seconds once shook. Battery compartment is clean & sanded contacts. I pulled crown / stem out & sets & moves hands (....when pushed in I can shake/rotate watch & will run for 3 to 5 seconds , ...... with stem/ crown pulled out , will not run....) I believe this is normal......The watch insides look very clean , no corrosion nor battery leakage.... Can any members give me some information on what direction I should take on this problem? I believe this is a battery conectivity within watch movement.....are there any diagrams showing the inside of the movement & how the movement works.....battery & mechanical. Thank you in advance for your help.....Dan
  7. So there is this timex automatic i found online from a reputable seller. I cant find much about it anywhere. Ive been looking for a timex automatic but already have a few watches that look like the marlin. This one is a little different and i like it. Any info would be greatly appreciated
  8. Hi! I'm well aware that Timex's don't get a lot of love and are known for not being so easy to work with, but mine was my father's and I'd like to get it working again. By the time I found it 3 weeks ago, I'm pretty sure it hadn't be worn in 35 years or so, but with a little wind and steady wearing, it started working and didn't keep bad time. At the end of a couple weeks, I'd noticed it wasn't keeping time and often running out of power after short periods. Eventually it stopped altogether. Being an overconfident novice, I found its manual online, did some reading (here and other places), and proceeded to take it apart, thinking I was being careful and looking for the obvious. Well, I never did figure out what was wrong, but in the process of putting the watch together and apart several times (NOT easy lining up all the pins and stem assembly), I stretched the hairspring into a nice tornado and that essentially killed the project... Ticked off that I screwed up my Dad's watch, I found another one like it on ebay that expressly said it didn't work. It's in equally good shape and when I opened it up, it was wet inside. I couldn't make out if it was water or a fine oil, but I ended up soaking the movement in lighter fluid hoping for a clean and a dry out. It did dry it out fine, but didn't magically start working even though I could see and feel that the mainspring held a wind. I used my oiler and Mobius oil in the divots of all the pivot points that I could reach, but still no movement. The balance wheel swung freely if tapped and the pallet lever rocked back and forth into the teeth of the escape wheel, but the escape wheel had no impetus of its own. If I flicked it forward, it would move the pallet lever and swing the balance wheel, but it wouldn't keep advancing. So, I'm stuck with somewhere between the tensioned mainspring and the escape wheel energy not being transferred. As best as I can tell, all the gears are in their proper pivot points. Because I found a little rust color on the rotor plate, I put some liquid wrench on it until I could brush the discoloration off and then back into the lighter fluid to get the liquid wrench off. I don't know if the gears are rust bound or something and am trying to avoid taking the whole thing apart again as I'm concerned I'll just screw this one up as well. Is there a way to check if the gear train is mobile in order to figure if it's locked up? As far as I know, power isn't getting from the barrel to the second wheel, but I have no way of telling as nothing is moving between there and the escape wheel. I can flick the escape wheel forward, but it's going to take a lot of flicks to get back to the second wheel and move it enough to figure if it's binding or not. If it comes to it, I have a functioning model of this watch coming as well and I could at least get some elements of my father's watch on it to feel some connection, but I'd really like to get what I have running if I could. Any tips (other than "throw them out, they're not meant to be repaired")? Beratement for the lighter fluid is expected... Thanks! - Jay
  9. I bought this watch off eBay with the intention of creating a fantasy watch for myself out of it and another junk one I had lying around. The seller low balled himself has soon as I asked a question concerning condition and I saw why as soon as I received it in the mail today. The crystal was super glued on in the most rediclous of ways lol. No real matter, I mainly wanted the case and I had a another crystal on the donor watch. Well unfortunately I got the new dial and everything ready and the spare crystal was a no go. I measured the seat of this case as 30.5mm and the other case as 30.9mm. My question now is does anyone know the part number or substitute for this case? New dial in UFO case.
  10. I just received a Timex Electronic in the mail a couple of days ago. It still had the original Timex Type A battery inside. But luckily it hadn't leaked. The hand setting is fine, but the day/date function seems to be stuck. The balance is able to swing freely. A quick test with my Accutron test meter shows that the coil is still ok. How is this movement different from the Timex Electric? At 1st glace it looks identical. How do I get to the calendar works? Do I need to pry open the dial tabs to get the dial off? I hate doing that. I just can't get the dial factory tight again. Thanks in advance.
  11. I've recently encountered the world of Timex watches. As everyone knows they are still in production and the new Timex watches are all quartz. But the line goes back decades. I myself have bags of discarded Timexes. Been fiddling with them recently. I've had a few flops but I'm surprised as how robust they are. Even my paws seem sufficient to revive some of them. Recently spent a pleasant half-day working on an old 50-60's era men's mechanical. Polished the case, buffed the crystal, did a partial disassembly of the movement, popped the whole thing into the cleaner. Came out looking like a new watch. Put the balance back in (and made a bit of a mess of it) and it works. Seems to keep good time in spite of my faux pas (paws!). It would be fun to get a bag of watches working again. Anyone know how to service the Timex Electric; the analog mechanical watch coupled to a solenoid (or something like it) which was used to provide a push to the balance to provide timing and energy. I have several. They look like they'd work but I doubt they would with modern batteries. (???) I've perused several threads here from like minded individuals who, like me, love these humble little pieces that lack all pretense yet "do their duty" faithfully. How can we share information? I really would like some tips/tricks/gadgets etc. that would make restoration easier and safer.
  12. I opened up this Timex Expedition T42351 to remove a tiny loose metal sliver from the dial. This watch actually has 2 stems to remove. One of those is a monster. I swear I felt like I was pulling a parasitic worm from a wood boring beetle as I slowly worked the main stem out of the movement. But it came out, I dropped the movement out of the case, removed the metal sliver - which looks like some kind of tiny flat spring - cleaned out the dust particles and proceeded to re-assemble the watch. Everything went fine until I attempted to slide the main stem back in; it went about halfway and then stopped. With some very careful manipulation I was able to ease it in a little more, but then it refused to go any further. I did notice there's a very loose 2-pronged spring near the entry hole and showed that to a watchmaker friend yesterday who told me that it's broken. He wouldn't touch it and advised me to just go get another watch. But I'm pretty sure there must be a way to get the stem back into the movement and regain the functionality the watch had before I opened it up. Here are pics of the watch, the loose sliver, and the stem with the movement. If anymore is familiar with anything like this, I'd love to hear your opinion. Thanks!
  13. Hi, I’m trying to replace the crystal on this expedition. I have pulled the stem and the movement. The crystal was shattered. It seems to be a 29.5mm crystal with a 1mm depth. I don’t see a gasket. How would I apply the new crystal? Does it press without a gasket? Thank you for any help provided! Brian
  14. Just starting a watch collection. Mostly hand-me-downs at the moment. Looking for advice, repair help and parts. Cheers
  15. Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches: I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s. The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner. This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled. Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner. My experience is this: Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.) Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink. So my question is this: What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend? Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar? Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place? I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't. I don't want to make those mistakes again. Thanks for any insights! -Todd
  16. I'm just finishing up a vintage Mickey Mouse watch with a Timex #24 movement. I performed cleaning per the Timex 24 service manual, which includes removing the balance and hairspring assembly. For future reference I need help in dealing with the too-soft brass V-Conic screw. I am not in the habit of rounding out screw slots, yet after carefully shaping my screwdriver tip and working as slowly and carefully as I could, I managed to mangle the balance screw slot anyway as the force required to turn the screw was apparently greater than the integrity of the brass Timex used for this part in this movement. I've seen photos of a #25 movement which also employs the V-Conic assembly, but did not appear to have the same soft brass balance screw. If anyone here has experience with this and can offer advice, please comment. Thanks!
  17. Good afternoon everyone. I have finally taken apart my wife's grandfathers Timex watch, which has a 24 movement. I have several questions: 1. The stem is really sloppy, what can cause that? 2. What is the best way to clean this movement. I do not have a machine so it will be done manually. 3. Where can I get a crystal? Is there a place to buy them if I measure it? Thank you for all of your help.
  18. I'm happy to finally start posting on this terrific watch repair community forum. I've been a member for almost a year, but have been mostly searching the forum for asked and answered questions that might help me with my novice watch repair techniques. I'm a vintage watch enthusiast with a special love of Timex watches from the 1950s through the 1970s. I developed an interest in watches about 4 years ago when I rediscovered two mechanical watches (a vintage Longines and a Seiko 5) that my father had left in a desk drawer years ago before he passed. Amazingly, both ran in spite of never having been serviced! I was hooked and began my own mechanical watch journey. I'm looking forward to learning more from this wonderful community.
  19. Just got this watch in today and was polishing the crystal when it popped out! Have looked everywhere and cannot find out how to get it back on! Is it a snap-in? Glue-on? Need help!!! It is an acrylic crystal, btw. Please and thank you!
  20. I am a novice so please bear with me. I just acquired a second hand Timex Expedition watch and the bracelet is too long for my wrist. So I checked online the various types of generic bracelet (friction pin, pin and collar, folded link, etc.) but my bracelet doesn't look like any of them. It has the "arrows" that indicate that the "arrowed" links can be removed but the replaceable links have a plain looking pin end on both sides of the bracelet. That is, there is no sign of the "slot" that is associated with a friction pin, there is no sign of a collar that is concentric with the pin, and there is no sign of the recess associated with the folded link bracelet type. Do you think that the bracelet is some other type? I have tried to use the push-pin on the end of my Burgeon tool but the bracelet pin does not want to move. Would a simple pin-pusher tool do it?
  21. Hi All Not long ago I was given and old Timex that belonged to my grandfather. It came to me as pictured and I haven't had the time to look at it since, I know very little about Timex watches and I am not even sure what model or what year it was manufactured in. Its missing its stem/crown, so I would like to identifying a suitable replacement. I would be very grateful if anyone could shed some light on this watch or even point me in the right direction so that I can find out if the old thing will still tick over and hopefully put it back into daily use. Many Thanks in Advance
  22. Hi everyone, I'm Mark from Southern California I have been collecting vintage Timex at local flea markets, garage sales, online and wherever I can get my hands on them for about a year or so. I have cracked a few open out of curiosity but plan to learn how to do simple repairs and servicing. I have enjoyed and appreciated the info that others have shared on this forum, so that's why I joined. Happy to be here!
  23. Hi! I posted this question in another forum but I think it's more suited in this discussion! So I just bought a Timex Watch and need to remove the movement for reasons. I snapped of the back and discovered that this is not the way to remove it. So I'm wondering if I have to remove the glass and pull it all out from the front and if so - how do I go by doing this? I'm still very new to all this but I want to learn!
  24. Recent pic ups at the local flea market. After a little clean up: Both running strong.
  25. I have two questions to ask. One is a problem with my watch. It is a 24 hour watch, and the second hand stops at random points, and sticks. I have tried replacing the battery, but it doesn't seem to fix it. And the second is what kind of watch is this? I have tried googling it, but nothing popped up. And it has no serial number. I can take a photo of the inside if it will help.
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