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About rduckwor

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  1. It looks pretty good to me (Said the idiot that totally trashed a hairspring doing a VERY SIMPLE JOB yesterday). My suggestion would be to look elsewhere for the low amplitude issues BEFORE you even consider touching the HS. Mainspring, train freedom, dirt, pivots, etc. HS work is difficult at best. Good Luck, RMD
  2. Look at the spring position BETWEEN the regulator pins. If its central to both pins, I vote to leave it alone. The old guys (Fried and De Carle) often suggested using a slight bend in the hairspring to centralize the spring position between regulator pins. It does appear to be a little eccentric. At any rate, I doubt your slight kink would be a reason for low amplitude. Good luck, RMD
  3. Don't fear it, just respect it. Its flammable, but that's not a problem if you remember that. Get some small glass jars with lids that seal and use it. RMD
  4. Take the dial off and seat the hour hand and see if it runs. (Assuming you have placed the dial.) It could be that the hour hand flange is fouling the dial opening. If so, you may need to carefully open the dial orifice a bit to allow the hour hand more room. If you do not have a dial in place, seat the hour hand and take a very close look at the hour wheel and all of the motion works. Good luck, RMD
  5. I have done the same thing on problem child movements.
  6. I am assuming that you removed and re-wound the mainspring. You did wind it in the correct direction didn't you? It has happened. RMD
  7. The Kiff's can be turned in either direction. That's the one choice you get to make. It seems that we are just prejudiced to turning things clockwise. WHY?? The discovery of "pinged" parts is the second law of watchmaking. You will always find a part you lost when searching for another part you lost. Unfortunately, you will not remember which movement the found part goes to. The first law is that when holding a part in place with one hand and needing a part to fit, i.e. a bridge, that part will be upside down on your mat. Attempts to pick this part up and drop it in order to flip it right side up, will ALWAYS result in said part falling and remaining upside down. Murphy was a watchmaker. RMD
  8. Certain types of shock setting are difficult for all to handle. The typical incabloc is not difficult as long as you DO NOT unseat the shock spring. Then things can get sticky. Kiff shock spring are a PITA unless you have the Kiff seating tool. Your description sounds like a Kiff or some variant thereof. Good luck and don't give up. We all have our days. RMD
  9. Yes and yes. It is possible to make your own tool with pegwood, but fraught with frustration. Also, one can re-seat the Kiff spring in the setting using two sharp tweezers and a fair amount of profanity. The trick is to seat two lobes of the spring BARELY into the setting and then while holding the spring, gently and carefully work the third lobe into place. Hard to describe, but not too hard to actually do, but it can also be frustrating. Ask me how I know. RMD
  10. In some cases people use Cerakote which is a baked-on ceramic type coating. It takes some knowledge and experience to get it right. RMD
  11. I have limited experience with MolyS2 in a different area. I shoot precision rifle and some competitors use moly coated bullets for a variety of reasons. I can tell you that once moly is used on a metal part that sees any pressure or significant compression (i.e. the inside of a rifle barrel), the moly is there pretty much forever. These guys (not me fortunately) scrub and scrub their barrels and the moly stays behind. it's a one-way-street for them. I would suspect that the escape wheel teeth on watches lubricated with any moly greases or oils have a thin coating of moly in the metallic surfaces where the escape jewels contact the teeth both on lock and the slip phases of the escape movement. Good or bad I cannot say. I seriously doubt that there is any penetration into synthetic jewels, but I have no data to prove or disprove that aspect. MolyS2 is dirty and get all over everything near it. Like copier toner. RMD
  12. The goal is to get them level in the main plate or as close as possible and then place the bridge gently and tease pivots into their respective jewels or bushes. Rarely will a bridge just fall into place without some help. Go slow, be gentle and make certain the wheel train turns freely before you screw the screws down on the bridge. It takes time and practice. Also, if you have doubt about the jewels fitness, inspect them with a strong magnification and light transmitted thru the jewel setting. If there's a problem, you will see it. Good Luck, RMD
  13. Thanks, I read that as well. I wasn't sure which implements to use though. RMD
  14. I have a minute hand that I need to tighten up a bit. I have a decent staking set and questions. Flat stump or one with a central hole? Round nose punch without a hole or with a hole. Flat punch to finish? Thanks, RMD
  15. No they are not! Hopefully, I bought the correct set. Thanks for all the responses. RMD
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