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rduckwor

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rduckwor last won the day on March 29

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  1. I'm currently working on a Bulova 8AE with the same problem. I had a prior Bulova that someone had shortened the hairspring on and then removed the regulator arm to make it a free-sprung balance in an effort to get it to run. Run it did! It gained several hours/24 hours. The problem with the current movement, the 8AE is that the amplitude is really crappy, not even 180 degrees. This despite a cleaning, demag, new MS, and a completely clean hairspring. One clue is that with a fully wound mainspring, additional pressure on the crown in the winding direction will improve the ampl
  2. Are you willing to broach the hand opening yourself. Seems 0.1 would not be a huge issue. Good Luck, RMD
  3. I have an Elgin 770 with a pallet fork with a broken upper arbor pivot. I've searched for a replacement pallet fork without success. I'm told I might be able to buy an arbor and replace the broken piece. Assuming I could find such a beast, is it possible to use my staking set to R&R the arbor? No jeweling set available. Thanks, RMD
  4. I'm no hairspring expert, but there are different types of over coils used on hairsprings. One, the smaller of the two over curves with the straight segment appears to be very similar to a Breguet over curve and the other a Phillips over curve. I've never seen a Phillips yet (only in books). Someone will come along and correct this shortly I suspect. RMD
  5. Tools to remove canon pinions are available. The key element is to remove it straight up not to pull at an angle . I have bid on several on EBay and failed to win the auction, so I use tweezers. Not ideal, but one must what one must. Good Luck, RMD
  6. Magnets, flashlights, and patience. RMD
  7. Would it be possible to get a thin blade between the dial and movement to "saw" thru the dial feet? Maybe even a jeweler's saw blade. Alternatively, judging for the amount of rust, perhaps gently lever on the dial at the feet might just snap them right off. High risk, but not many alternatives that I can see. Drilling the dial screws out may not do any good given the amount of rust. Very sad to see a nice watch in that condition. Good Luck, RMD
  8. Acrylic crystals can be cemented as you said with GS Hypo Cement. Often they will require some filing to fit. I mark one corner with a sharpie and orient this to the stem slot on the case. I then will file the opposite long edge and the bottom edge until I get a snap fit. then I polish the filed edges with PolyWatch to remove the file marks. Look carefully at all four edges. Many times you are going to have some clean-up to do on all the edges. Most (but not all) crystals push out from the back side. As for fitting the mineral crystal, you may have a real job on
  9. Get a stick pin from a bulletin board. Put it in the hole opposite the screw slot and put the pin/bracelet combo down on your desk so you can maintain pressure (gentle pressure) on the base of the pit and the bracelet screw. Try unscrewing while maintaining pressure on the pin/bracelet. Easier done than explained. Good luck, RMD
  10. Yes, we did. But the 712/714 movements got pushed to the side and superseded by more urgent jobs. Besides, I am old and my memory often fails. You will know soon enough! RMD
  11. Thanks, movements I have, shock springs I need. Thanks again for tracking it down. RMD
  12. I would suspect that you could avoid the staking set and press the stud in with heavy tweezers carefully. Good Luck. RMD
  13. Anyone have a name for this particular shock spring? Maybe even a source for spares? Elgin 712 movement. I fear obsolete and specific to Elgin only. Thanks, RMD
  14. This may be of no concern to you, but, if you remove the plating, you destroy the value and the history of the watch. I think it is beautiful just the way it is. You could always polish a bit by hand with Cape Cod Colth if you want, but short of replating the case, I would take no actions to harm the plating. Replating may well diminish the value as well. Good luck, RMD
  15. Put the dial and hands on and bench time it for several days. I find my Chinese timegrapher (W-1000) is terrible with vintage movements. It will predict a rate of +390 secs or more and yet when I bench time the movement is very accurate. It seems to work fine with modern movements. Go figure??!! RMD
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