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Found 18 results

  1. Hello, I recently reacquired a watch I had swapped off to a friend years ago, a Seiko 7t62-0am0 Asymmetry (I believe was the name). The watch is a quartz movement and is a chronograph. When I initially bought the watch (new) it was worn gently. When I traded off the piece it was to a dear friend who tucked it away in a box and essentially forgot about it until recently. I got the piece back a few weeks ago, had a battery installed at an AD and it worked normally. After arriving home, I put on the watch and it was functioning normally, except it stopped after about 30 or so minutes. I took it off thinking it was a faulty battery or connection, but when I looked at it the next day in the display case it was again working. After repeatedly wearing the watch and removing the watch when it would stop, I have come to believe that my body heat is causing some metal part to expand, thereby making the watch stop. Could this be the case? If so, what exactly is the issue (i.e., which part is the culprit)? *the photo is a stock photo of this model watch* Thank you in advance for your assistance. Respectfully, Dr. C. King
  2. Hello fellow watch freaks. It's been a while since I've posted a service walkthrough, but I had an accident that destroyed my left shoulder and needed surgery. It's been a rough 6 months for me, with a LOT of soul searching throughout my recovery period. But I'm back on the bench ... at least at home anyway; work is a different matter, and my close friends on this forum know about that ... nuff said. This watch is owned by one of my older brother's friends. My older brother is one of the most selfless people I know, and has always been there for me. So when he asked me to do this for him it became TOP priority. It was the first item his friend purchased after he left school and began work: so there's a lot of good memories tied to this watch. As you can see it's an older quartz Seamaster with an 1337 Movement. On first inspection you can see water damage to the Dial @ 3 o'clock. So I wasn't expecting to see a happy movement inside. But when I got the Caseback off things didn't look too bad at all. Just a bit of corrosion from a cheap nasty Chinese battery. The movement still looked nice and shiny and the Stem only had a touch of rust up near the Crown. So this watch looks like one we can save :) Disassembly OK, lets begin. Fist remove the Hands and Dial from the movement. Again, absolutely no moisture damage under the Dial ... this made me VERY happy indeed. So on to the Movement Holder it goes. Remove the Battery Clamp and Insulator Ring. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the Circuit Cover. Note that there is an insulator under the cover. It is very delicate, so great care should be taken when handling it. Once the cover is removed the circuit is exposed; but before removing it, unscrew the 2 screws holding the Coil Protector and remove it. Then unscrew the Coil, and remove the Circuit and Coil. Place both the Circuit and Coil in a safe place to avoid damage, as this parts are obsolete, and if damaged you'll have to scour the internet for a donor movement ... good luck with that!! Next remove the Train Bridge Here is a reference photo of the train. As you can see, the Rotor is a very different looking animal to the modern ETA rotors. Carefully remove all the wheels, and store the Rotor in a safe place AWAY from the rest of the parts to be cleaned ... as this has to be hand cleaned due to it being magnetic. Please Note: There is a very small washer that fits between the minute wheel and the extended pivot of the Second Wheel. Be sure to identify it, and make sure it's put in the small parts container for cleaning. Here's the complete train removed from the movement for reference. Flip the movement over in the holder and remove the 3 screws of the cover that holds the Calendar Ring. As you can see that Motion Work and Calendar Work are fairly complex on this movement. Make sure you take good reference photos and study them carefully so they are not confused with wheels of the train. Remove the Calendar Ring. Remove the Motion Work and Calendar Work. Here's the complete Motion Work and Calendar Work removed from the movement for reference. The Crown and Clutch should now be able to be removed. Flip the movement over once again to tackle the Keyless Work Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Spring. Lastly unscrew and remove the Setting Lever, Intermediate Wheel and Yoke. The Omega 1337 Movement is now completely disassembled and ready for cleaning. I will post the assembly soon.
  3. I received this really nice Seiko 7T42-6A00 to service and the description was that the timer (yes, this particular 7Txx model has a timer also) was not working. After first inspection, actually I noticed that it had some more issues, among which the quickdate that was not working. I made a video presentation of this watch: I decided to strip down completely the movement since it apparently had never being serviced. A movement swap was just not an option... Opening the case no sign of damage was visible, although I did notice some very fine white dust, probably some acid liquid that had dried out. Removing the movement from the case, and inspecting it, showed indeed traces of dried up acid:
  4. Got quite a peculiar one at the moment, and it's something that I've never personally encountered before. The clients watch is an Armani AR5905; he thought he needed a new battery and so here I am, Upon taking the case-back off and placing a new battery in, I heard the circuit do the all so familiar whirring noise like it was springing back to life, however when I flipped it over it wasn't ticking. So I pulled the battery out and again put it back in, but what I noticed was that the whirring noise was only happening when the battery was halfway seated and thus not making full contact, and as soon as the battery was fully seated everything ceased. This time I put the battery in halfway and then flipped over the watch to see it working, and to my surprise the seconds sub-dial at the 6 position was spinning around wildly. However again stopped when the battery was fully inserted. Anybody have any ideas as to what is going on? I could upload a video if that would help.
  5. Dear all, It's my first post here, please excuse if I post to the wrong sub-forum. I own a small collection of quartz and automatic watches and at least do most of the usual service myself. A friend of mine gave me an old watch she likes and asked me if I can change the battery. She told me it's around 25 years old and cheap but she likes the dial. It was a present by a french bank she worked for. All my watches are either press or screw down backs and I have never seen a watch like this. It seems that the only possible way to open the watch is the small plastic notch on the back. I tried to open it with quite some force but it didn't open. Do I overlook something, is there a special way to open it? I also got the original case. A note in it says in french that the battery is interchangeable. Already thanks for all your help! Best regards, Martin
  6. Hello to all, My name is Ash (from NZ). Im a watch enthusiast and trying to learn more about Horology. I have been picking odd watch repair jobs here and there and self-learning. Firstly, thanks a lot to Mark Lovick for uploading fantastic videos on youtube that are so simple to follow. Keep up the great work Question - is there a way to diagnose quartz watch circuit using those test probes (that have an LED inbuilt) or perhaps using a multi-meter? For some watch movements such as Myota 2035, it makes sense to replace the whole movement. In other cases, it make sense to repair it (if possible). Is there a way to narrow down the faults in quartz watch? For instance, if a watch is gaining/loosing time, it could be the quartz crystal out of freq etc. how can it be scanned appropriately? Im not sure if its even possible or not. Hopefully I could get some help here. Thanks a lot in advance Ash
  7. Hello all, I have a watch I would like to fix my self. It's made by TAWATEC, who is no longer in business. It's very similar to a Luminox and used TGS for lume. I will provide information to the best of my ability. Here is a link to some information about it. Here are a few pictures of the watch. I have had the watch since May of 2011. I had the battery replaced in Feb 2015 by a local shop. Less than a year later, I noticed that after taking a shower there was condensation under the crystal. I pulled the crown and left it sit to air out. After about a week I pushed the crown back in and the watch no longer worked. I wondered what caused it to leak. I then remembered I had to change the date on the watch a few days before condensation had got inside the watch. When I was trying to set the date I noticed that it was difficult to pull the crown out and it was more difficult to turn than usual. My guess was that the gasket/O-ring that is on the stem/crown was messed up and had ripped and water had entered that way. I left the watch sit for a year and used another watch as my daily driver. I'm hoping to get this one up and running again. So I recently decided to see if I could fix the watch myself. Here is what I have done and have figured out so far... I was able to remove the case back by removing the 4 Phillips screws. Visually inspecting the O-ring that seals the case back, everything looks good. The movement is a Ronda 515. The plastic ring that holds the movement inside the case says Ronda 515 # 6. I was able to remove the crown and stem. Looking towards the inside of the crown there was remnants of the O-ring. After clearing the remnants and putting the crown back in, the crown moves freely. I also found remnants if rubber on the front of the dial. After inspecting the battery, it looks to have leaked its electrolyte What I would like to do first is replace the O-Ring that's on the crown and put a new battery in it. If I then determine that the movement is damaged, I can replace it later. What do I need to do to figure out what size of O-ring I need for the crown? I can take pictures of the crown/stem if needed. I also have analog calipers to use that are in inches. Thanks for your time!
  8. I agree with what you are saying completely. I plan to only keep the case and back and replace everything else. I would have loved to put a mechanical movement in the watch but I think it’s too small (33.9mm x 7.1mm). My plan is to have the case and back replated and have the back blanked of its manufacturers engraving so as I can have a blank canvas to have something engraved on it myself. I was hoping to get advice on what movements could be used and buy the parts ready for a watchmaker to assemble as like you said, I don’t want to ruin the watch. I’ve already started sourcing/ordering parts which was a little silly without any advice so I’ll post what I have ordered below (if rules permit me to do so?).
  9. richiewheels

    Omega 1337 Problem

    I have one of these in for service, cant figure out why the hour hand does not go round when time is set. The hour hand sets OK although sometimes it clicks every hour and other times it runs smooth. The minutes and seconds function fine even when setting the time. http://www.old-omegas.com/1337en.html Maybe a problem with the magnetic wheel on the date set? I looked under the microscope and it looks like the 2 part magnetic wheel on the date side is only rotating on the bottom half and not transferring the force to the top half to the hour wheel. Any ideas on how to remedy it and get her going again?? Omega 1332.pdf
  10. Hi everyone, I was asked to take a look at a broken Nautica watch. I tried a fresh battery and fair enough, it doesn't run. Closer inspection revealed a broken part on the setting lever (???) (not sure this term applies to quartz movements, there are lots of parts in there that don't look like anything I'm used to). Turns out the movement is a Timex m649. So I looked around the usual places for a replacement: Otto Frei, cousinUK, Esslinger.... and the EvilBay but no luck. I's either not available or marked obsolete. I'm was hoping to find a chart with an equivalent movement or the new version of the movement but no luck. I'm trying to get watch to tick more than I want the indiglo function to work if that makes any difference (althought it comes from the dial, not the movement apparently). Would anybody have any idea what I could replace this movement with?
  11. ETA 955 Service Walkthrough "The Workhorse of Highend Quartz" The ETA 955 and 956 Quartz Movements are the most commonly found movement in high-end quartz watches with three hands and a date feature. You will find them in Omega, Tag, and many other brands on the market. For this walkthrough I will be using an 955.412 Movement as my example; but the 956 is so similar to the 955, that this walkthrough will suffice for both. Please note that the numbers after the decimal place only relates to the factory in which the movement was made, so yours could read 955.112, or another factory number ... regardless, the parts are identical and interchangeable. As with all movements, quartz or mechanical, they have a service interval that should be adhered to for longevity of the movement. With quartz movements when the lubrication becomes dried out, or the movement becomes dirty, they will draw more and more current from the battery in order to maintain accurate time keeping. The ETA 955/6, when in optimum condition should draw around 800nA ~ 1.5uA, if the movement is drawing more power than this, a service is required. If a service is not performed, the battery life with decrease markedly, and can go as far as drawing more power from the battery than it was designed for, and damage the battery and cause it to leak and corrode your valuable time piece. Service Manual for the 955/6 Movement CT_956412_FDE_493024_06.pdf.PDF Disassembly Remove the two Date Wheel Keepers. I always start with the one holding the Date Jumper Spring in place. Sometimes the Date Jumper Spring can ping out of place, so be careful when removing the keeper plate above it. Here is a reference photo in case it moves before you see how it's properly seated. Next remove the Keepers and Date Wheel. Then remove the Date Jumper Spring, Motion and Calendar Work. This will leave only the Keyless Work; remove the Yoke and the Sliding Pinion only. We need to flip the movement over, and disassemble the IC Board before we can remove the rest of the Keyless Work. With the movement flipped over, remove the 3 screws holding the Coil Protector. Note for re-assembly the Gold Screw in the centre. Now that the Coil Protector is removed, GREAT care must be taken not to damage the exposed fine windings of the Coil. Then to remove the IC Board, simply remove the 2 remaining screws that hold it. Do this slowly and carefully, as you do not want to slip off the screw and damage this delicate circuit. The same level of care needs to be taken when removing the IC Board from the Main Plate. Take your time and carefully lift it off and store it immediately out of harms way. Next remove the black Insulator Block, and Battery Insulator. This will expose the Setting Lever Spring Clip, which will enable you to remove the rest of the Keyless Work. To remove the Setting Lever Spring Clip, place both points of your tweezers on the locations where I've placed the stars and gently push down on the spring. Then with a piece of Pegwood, push the spring in the direction of the arrow until it moves to the larger opening slot. This will now allow the Setting Lever to be removed, along with the rest of the Keyless Work. Next remove the Stop Lever and Switch, and remove the one screw holding the Train Bridge in place. Then carefully remove the Gear Train and the Rotor. The movement is now completely stripped and ready for inspection and cleaning. There are some parts that you do not place in the parts cleaner, they are as follows: Date Ring Rotor IC Board The rest should be demagnetized prior to cleaning to avoid any metal particles in your cleaning solution from sticking to your parts. When cleaning I also including the Insulator Block, and Battery Insulator in the basket, normal watch cleaning solutions do not harm these items and it is essential they are completely clean to provide the best insulation possible. The Rotor should be cleaned by use of Rodico. As you can see from the picture below, it's surprising the dirt and old oil this will remove ... and it is sufficient cleaning for the Rotor. I hope this has been a help to you, and I will post the assembly procedure later today, if time permits.
  12. Tomsutherland111

    Longines quartz from 1991

    My uncle bought this watch in 1991 and left me it in his will. I've been unable to find the same watch anywhere online so I was wondering if anyone could help me find out more about it?
  13. I am looking for a stem/crown for a Miyota quartz movement (see attached). Why does Miyota seldom write the movement's part number on the movement? Can anyone help? It goes inside a cheap Nelsonic LAX 766 watch.
  14. Good evening all, I am in the middle of repairing my Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra which houses an Omega 4564 Quartz movement. The second hand had appeared to have fallen off after I'd dropped the watch but after disassembling the watch it was clear that the second wheel pin had broken. Here comes the problem. Of course, being Omega I had anticipated getting parts from them would be impossible so I looked a little further and realised that the Omega 4564 uses an ETA E64.111 base. After looking around, I couldn't find anywhere that would sell the second wheel alone so without thinking I decided to order the E64.111 movement complete. The idea was to remove the second wheel from this new E64.111 and use it to replace the broken one on my Omega 4564... This is where you will all join me in face-palming...and I bet most of you will already know what's coming... The height is way off. So much so that it doesn't even manage to peer over the minute wheel when assembled. A real rookie mistake. Does anybody know know the height of the Omega 4564 second wheel pin? I'm finding it hard to get a precise measurement using the broken pieces. Also, if anybody has one spare (long shot) or knows where I can source one that'd be great! Has anybody worked on this movement before? I found the reassembly of the train wheel bridge particularly challenging on this one so if anyone has any tips or hacks for that I can remember for the future. Thanks in advance for any help. David
  15. GeorgeClarkson

    MY Seiko Quartz Chronographs

    As pe the title, here a small comparison video of my Seiko Quartz Chronographs from the 7Txx series. Enjoy!
  16. I have an old small Seiko quartz watch with a case number 200834 and stem number 2E20-6300. Some time after a repair of the stem by a jewelry store, the stem began to malfunction again and the crown got loose and was lost. After watching a few of the repair videos on your website, I thought Seiko design should be just as straight-forward, and I might be able to do the repairs myself. So, I purchased a new stem and a new crown and tried to remove the stem after attaching the new crown by pushing on any of the holes or screw-looking spots or levers to unlock the catch. Unfortunately none of them seemed to budge. In the process of fiddling, the watch internal popped out of the casing with the seal now loose. I would appreciate any help that anybody could offer. I guess I may have to purchase some very small screw drivers if needed. FYI: I am attaching two pictures of the watch, one for the back side of the internal and one for the watch back cover. In the first picture, the watch internal is just resting on the watch casing. Thank you.
  17. Hello! I took my trusty Swiss Army Watch (24221) to an electronics store for a battery change, and they tried a battery that was a hair too thick, then one that was too thin, before we found the proper size (Renata 371 in case anyone has the same problem). However, the watch did not spring back to life. It had worked fine prior to the battery change (except that it was signalling low voltage with that jumpy sweep of the second hand every few seconds). Also, I was present for the whole procedure and didn't see any undue handling or any insulators falling out or anything that could explain it not restarting. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I'd prefer not to throw out one of my favorite watches if there is still something that can be done, or at least know how to verify that it is really dead. I read that sometimes the "gears have to be spun" to resuscitate the movement, and that this can be done physically or magnetically. How is that done? I'd appreciate any advice from the highly skilled readership here! Cheers!
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