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jdm last won the day on April 16

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  1. Original screws are expensive but not always needed. Just get the type that makes for your case, literally https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/case-screws-wristwatch-movement-to-case-assorted
  2. That is not acceptable, the hour wheel is part of the mov.t and must be supplied. Dial washers, as mentioned above, are good to have in a small assortment. With unscrupulous sellers do not waste time in exchanging messages, just open a claim with the platform and the card issuer, let them work it out for you.
  3. I do make too many writing errors myself and apologize if my clarification seemed like pointless grammar police.
  4. Are these from a quartz module similar to OP's one? My assertion comes from observation and testing of the day/date driving wheel used on the 7S/4R/6R family (sorry for the mediocre pic). First, it's made of somewhat flexible plastic, the kind that one can deform a little and will return to the original shape. Then, the fingers are designed not only to push the teeth of the calendar ring or disc, but also to be pushed back from the same without breaking. Their tips are shaped so to recess inward and make the point where it attaches to the body, which is thinner, to flex
  5. So it is indeed. Tissot has complety adopted that design, but almost nobody else did.
  6. For the casual reader: that would be braking grease. One may need it or not, but surely does not want a product that breaks things
  7. Then you have vintage ones as Seiko switched to using a single spring maybe 20 years ago. It takes really a lot of mistreat to clog them.
  8. Not really. If you want to remove the doubt from your mind fit a new mainspring, isn't expensive and doesn't require a winder.
  9. Normally it goes in the case but should fit either way, what matters is that the press is good, you start perfectly straight and you use a crown die, otherwise the back may distort and jam.
  10. That is all good, full armament tecniques are not always needed. If you want to learn about a much better designed and executed rotating bezel get a Seiko diver's.
  11. Epilame did not exist at the these watches were made, yet they could attain remarkable "railroad" precision. One wonders if it is really needed for beginner then. In my opinion a better approach would be to avoid smoker's products and maybe use a specific product to brighen the movement.
  12. Typically one heats it all with an hairdryer. The glue or adhesive film is non permanent, by purpose.
  13. That is the post, the dimple to press is at its left. You can observe it moving by pulling the stem out and in.
  14. Normally the insert is not to be removed on rotating bezels, but if you can confirm that on this particular watch is just impossible to fit the segmented retainer from the bottom - even omitting the spring - then you will have to do that and fit the retainer from the top with be bezel in place.
  15. Your watch uses the most popular Miyota quartz module. The stem release point is the small round point, left to the round setting lever post, which is left of the stem itself, near to the bottom.
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