jdm

Best is to get the cheapest 7S26 "for parts" and take it from there, that will give you more parts as well.

To highlight that sequence of events I wrote "makes the pallet move", meaning "initiates the movement of the pallet". Of course the pallet also transmits significant power to the impulse jewel and certain parameters can be optimized for a nicely "self starting" mov't, but all that I've omitted for the simplicity of discussion. I have been searching on (digital) old texts about the importance of this, but haven't found anything so far. Intuitively it seems to me that with a perfectly poised balance there should be no difference in performances no matter how they sit, but likely there something that escapes me? Not to say that it would be acceptable for a factory or repairer to assemble in a inconsistent manner, and before considering that three and four spokes balances also exist.

Right. But looking at the mov't picture from Ranfft's, the pallet sits inline with the cock screw and the balance. And in the OP picture the impulse jewel is inline with the same said reference points. That should make so that the jewel is in the proper position are when the balance in installed, and the watch should at least run anyway.

The simpler explanation is that you're installing with the impulse pin outside of the horns. Depending on the mov't you can actually see if that is the case. When it happens like that, leave the cock screw lose, and lift the balance so slightly that it can fell within the horns. Assuming there is at least some power it will start beating right away. Just a passing note, it is said impulse jewel that makes the pallet move, not vice-versa.

Sorry then, I had forgot there is a limitation there.

These are friction fit, use at least a stacking set.

Just to make you aware that if all you intend to do is posting videos there is a dedicated subsection for that.

Yes. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/click-screws-wristwatch-assorted Next time please post repair questions in the dedicated section of the same name.

For what movement exactly? There are considerable differences between fixed and moveable stud arm, shock springs or not, etachron or not, plus if basic or sophisticated regulator. Unless you mean remove and refit? Any service video shows that.

There is no reversing wheel, as master nickelsiver explained above.

Here again 9ne of the most recurrent Seiko questions How do you know with certainty that movt' wont be acceptable without replacing the mainspring? Facts are, first these are quality mainspring and can easily last 50 or more years, and then a brand new NH36 with manual winding and hacking is like 5 or 10 euro more than a complete barrel, or an (imperfect) replacement GR mainspring.

Yes it was, 1957 Omega literature explains it, in the 60s Greiner made a machine to apply it from bags of stearic acide, after ultrasonic cleaning. I've neither used it so far, I think that today's quality of lubricatints helps doing without it, at the same time I don't have enough experience to recommend one way or the other.

With a good amplitude and pattern like that I think the most likely cause is a piece of debris getting in the way, or anything else stopping the train or escapement. Try monitoring in vertical until it stops? Another approach, inspect all parts pinion wheels and jewels under a microscope for a chance of catching some minute defect.

That much for having expressed a sincere smile and respect for other's opinion's while using my right to express mine? And is not the first time you recour to bombastic verbiage for what in practice is name calling someone that simply doesn't happen to think like you do. I gladly leave you the last word here and in any other discussion in which you will act like that.

In other words, you "summarized" previous discussions, without linking these and without adding any new information. That only makes information more dispersed. Better is, when one has something to add or a question not answered, to hook up into an existing topic. That is just my opinion, of course, and you're welcome to differ So your source is an unfortunate vlogger of no technical qualification, that fell victim of an unscrupulous "official service center", which broke or lost some parts during "service" and wants to charge the customer. Bad, but all that trouble for a common SARB033? He could have used a reputable independent repairer, or If in a rush for a "fresh watch" just buy a new one and sell the other. Below my source for Seiko parts Now pay attention to the following screenshot. If the part you need is missing, enter xxx in the field on the right and click search. The button "Request non Listed Item" will then appear. Fill the form, they will contact the manufacturer and you will be notified about the outcome. I have used this service few times already to my satisfaction.