jdm

Why always the talk of lighter fuel, that was right only in place and times where nothing better was available. You can use petrol based in a purified form that leaves virtually no residue https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petroleum-Ether-80-C-100-C-500ml-Petroleum-Spirit-Shipped-Same-Day/142061406816

The above are mild abrasives, they do nothing to glass. There are various polish thread on this forum, use the search function. Anyway: Place the wet paper on a plastic support disc 5 - 8 cm diameter. Observe from inner side that you are hitting to the correct spot, orthogonal to the scratch direction. You will see white streaks on the point you're abrading. Check often and as soon the scratch is gone then move to 600, that's the finest grip that will have some effect. After that you'll need diamond paste. You can't ruin a crystal unless you drop and chip it. Of course, on a faceted crystal, crisp edges cannot be preserved.

If the issue is the deep scratches, you can't get them off with 1000, start with 280. Abrading glass is not like working to paint or metal. Then at the end you can't get good finishing with paper only, crystal will always appear kind of blear. Use diamond paste on a felt wheel, mounted on a rotary tool. Don't bother with paste below 20 grit. Both paste and the tool, in case you haven't it, are very cheap on AliX or similar sites.

I'm think that is more an artifact of the low res display of the 1000 model than a real problem. In my opinion in the picture above the relation between lines is good, only the instrument draws some point one pixel off due to to rounding algorithm. In other words it makes you see things worst than they are.

Here's my angle an this. I have very little beard but as anyone else appreciate a perfect shave. March 3 blades, the handle I've received yesterday from AliX for $15, it' solid machined from 304 SS. I find scandalous that the original handle starts turning into tacky pieces after few days of contacting water. The foam is special variety of Noxzema, Italian made. Highly recommended. I'll need to find something similar in a travel size. For years I wanted to try an electric shaver, but I never got to understand which brand/type is really the best. I'd like it small and battery operated, suggestions?

I think the proper place for this would be in "watch repair questions and advice".

The second picture is balance staffs. they are printed or or noted with a supplier assortment number, a maker and part number, as well sizes. Be aware that in 99% of the cases these parts are not rare or expensive, so you could as well group them by maker, in a lot of 4 or 5, include all the writings in the description, take a group picture and let the buyer figure if what they need is in there.

There are many technical reviews on the net for Seiko Spring Drive. I recall a very good one with detailed pictures which was done at an American horological academy few years ago, you should be able to find it with Google. The reason why there are no repair or service articles is that by one side the owners are unwilling to give the watch to anyone but Seiko, and on the other hand even competent watchmaker are unwilling to touch these, as they are unfamiliar with them and would not get parts from Seiko. In fact even Seiko service centers anywhere In the world will send to Japan the Grand Seiko, Credor or Spring Drive models given to them for service or repair.

Seiko doesn't sell to individuals, but pretty much anyone can buy and even special order Seiko parts from Cousins UK, Borel, Boley, Star Time, etc. These material houses also manage to obtain many Swiss parts, plus the many they had is stock before the restriction. but as per previous link the issue is simple: Swatch group has a set and published policy of not providing parts other than to their Authorized Service Centers. Many other Swiss manufactures do the same Also, Swatch is limiting sales of certain ETA movements to companies of the same group. Seiko don't have such a parts restriction policy. They also have a subsidiary company, SII to provide complete mov.ts to OEMs.

I don't think it different from any other Swiss watch, 250° is a pretty common standard. BTW, on our friendly forum it's considered polite to introduce oneself in the dedicated section before starting asking questions.

OMG another subject of the Unimat 3 and very well equipped nevertheless! I've got a SIEG C0 myself and become a bit fixated about. I'm learning with it, have many ideas About self-made accessories, which as noted do cost a good deal. I'm in contact with another well known enthusiast, maybe we should find a place to swap ideas and projects. BTW the wooden box is great, I left something similar behind when moved. But then got the below, it was filled with a million of plastic tubes for stems. If anyone wants some just let me know.

Sorry, I wrongly assumed it was a retro-design new watch, it's not and not even automatic. Looks the same as the below, reportedly using Unitas 6300N. But the etching on the caseback of the OP indicated also makes me think it can't be that old. https://www.chrono24.com/atlantic/atlantic-worldmaster--id10259827.htm

There are also suction cups specially made for this. I've never seen a report about their effectiveness.

You've posted a broken HTML page, not the actual chart.

And, Swiss regulations allows their watches to claim Swiss Made (that is the legal purpose of the small writing on the face) as long a percent of value or processing is respected. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_made#60%_rule_for_Swiss-made_watches I believe that the strengthening mentioned in the above entry has been, in the end, approved recently. Incidentally, also Japan has similar regulation. For examples, the much loved Seiko SARB033 "Japan Domestic Market" case is made in China. Depending on what one consider an in-house movement, IWC may or may not qualify into that market (and marketing) industry segment. These are really the type of endless debates one can read on WUS.