jdm

Not on Seiko Kinetics as the OP mentioned, which are. quality watches retailing $250 and more.

Which tools are you using? For really tight caseback you need either a 5700Z bench opener, or a wooden case holder in a vice and a two handles Jaxa opener. Get either one and you will be fine.

Quite normal in watchmaking schools, one have to do a lot of filing and tool making before undertaking actual horology subjects. Good for building dexterity and machinist skills but really there is whole lot more than that to make, at least, a good repairer.

I have never heard or seen the recommendation of glueing wheels, pinions, etc with shellac or anything else. These should always be friction fit.

See above the good postings by Tmuir and measuretwice. Parallel blades drivers aren't given that much importance, for whatever the right and wrong reasons. Good that you are being exposed to comparison at school so you can base your own judgment, I want to do the same.

An hairspring stud pin, as used on some cheap mov't is way smaller. The advice given above is the right one, get a complete fork replacement. I think you are skipping steps for a beginner, get first to the point where you can comfortably service a regular mov't without breaking or loosing anything, and enjoy the pleasure of having it run perfectly. You will have plenty of time and better skills for more demanding repairs.

That's why a wrote "a bit". Anyway, a 1.0mm stem can have a 0.2 or 0.25 pitch, which means a crown tapped 3mm deep takes like 15 or 20 turns to full screw. One can have undercut 2mm and still have enough threads to hold safe.

Stem cut a bit too short? No problem, drop a minuscule piece of wire in the crown, apply locking agent and screw down well. Shhh don't tell anyone!

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With ingenuity you could be able to. Plastigauge was invented for that. Now, I've never heard of it being uses on watches, but one could use aluminium foil stacked in different places to find where and how much shimming is needed. Philippe Dufour once saidn that case makers "are not very precise people", maybe the OP found himself in the same predicament

No. You use a stake/punch from a staking set, or similar tool, to close slightly the hole of the wheel. Then fit the pinion by friction, again the staking set is useful to do that.

No need for glue. Tap slightly just around the hole with a flat nose stake. It can be done even without a staking set.

It means to bore slightly the part where the collet goes. It can be done on the lathe itself. I suggest that you get a lathe first and worry later about what, if anything, has to be adjusted. BTW we have a section on the forum where it's considered polite to introduce oneself before asking questions.

Yes, excessive battery usage is a sign of dried lubrication. Current draw can also be measure with analog multi-meter, to compare with manufacturer specifications. Many quartz modules are more practical and economical to replace than to service.

I would use a fine sanding block, sponge type or paper on wood. A so small difference is done easily, check often the bezel fitting to not remove too much.